FlIGht SImulAtorS: The Radio
Control video flight simulator is here to
stay, and, like everything in this great
hobby, it has been developed to an almost
unbelievable degree. A popular system is
Great Planes’ RealFlight, which is available
in a variety of versions with enough addons
to satisfy everyone’s interests and
ultimate goals.
And apparently the most popular is the
one that comes with its own “transmitter”
which is actually not a complete transmitter
electronically, but it is physically; the
catalog generally refers to it as a
“controller”! It makes sense to choose this
option because it eliminates the need to
interface the flying transmitter and the
possible danger of finding out at takeoff
time that you didn’t return everything to the
flight settings.
The system is catalogued as Mode Two.
I often hear the question, What about us
Mode One users? It can be ordered with a
Mode One controller, but you’ll never find
one at your hobby store, and what about one
already on hand that your Mode One friend
would like to try? Or maybe you want to
see why the Prettners and Somenzinis of the
world prefer that mode! I felt that the
conversion ought to be simple, and it
couldn’t be more so!
There is good news even for those of
you who don’t like to work on your
electronics: the basic conversion requires
only switching two wires! And there is the
throttle stick ratchet to contend with, but
that requires only the removal and
replacement of the ratchet assembly—a
mechanical change with none of that scary
electronic stuff involved. Let’s do that first
while I am on the subject.
In the following, when I refer to left or
right I am doing so as I look at the rear of
the transmitter—not the front, which would
reverse things.
With the rear cover removed, look at the
stick assemblies. On the outer right-hand
edge of the right assembly, there is a little
metal arm secured with a single screw. As
you move the throttle stick, you will see
that this metal piece rubs against fine teeth
in a plastic piece that moves with the stick.
This provides the “clicks” felt when the
stick is moved. Remove this piece and
replace it on the left-hand assembly, outer
(left) side.
Now you have a ratchet on the right
stick (Mode One), but the stick still centers
and the left one flops around.
There is an equally simple cure. Looking
at the inner (right) side of the left stick
Eloy Marez
E l e c t r o n i c s
2626 W. Northwood, Santa Ana CA 92704
“Aeromodelista” Saylin Madrigal of
Costa Rica enjoys flying Radio Control
models.
Carmen Boquin of Honduras was
introduced to Radio Control flying by her
uncle.
80 M ODEL AVIATION
assembly, you’ll see a spring mounted
vertically that extends as the stick is moved
off center. The spring is held at its top by a
plastic piece with a screw in its center,
which allows you to adjust the stick tension
to your liking.
Rotate the screw clockwise to the least
spring tension. Now it is easy to slip the
spring off at both ends; a pair of tweezers
or preferably locking forceps will make this
simple. Move the spring, the piece with the
screw, and the lever piece to which the
spring is attached at its bottom over to the
same location on the right stick assembly’s
inner (left) side. The whole spring
assembly is installed in a 180 fashion; that
is, the tension-adjusting screw will be at the
top and everything else is turned around
similarly.
It is actually longer and more
complicated to tell about than to do; once
you remove the back and study the
mechanics, you’ll see exactly what has to
be done.
Now for the hard part, which in this
case is actually the easy part. Look at the
sketch of the potentiometers—the variable
resistors located on the inner and lower
sides of the stick assemblies. The two wires
mentioned that require switching are on the
inner potentiometers: the green on the left
potentiometer and the gray on the right. No
other connections have to be switched or
made, nor are any adjustments necessary.
Now for the top- and front-mounted
switches. A full Mode One conversion will
require that the top ones be switched one
for one. That’s easily done; just be sure that
you don’t pull any wires loose while so
doing. For the front-mounted switch you
will have to drill out the similar location
molded into the case on the left side of the
case.
What if you are Mode One/Mode Two
team? I did get a request for help in that
situation! There is nothing to be done about
the ratchet; it has to be changed to go from
one mode to the other. But once it is done
the first time, it becomes an easy change—
possibly complicated only by dropping and
losing the small pieces. Five minutes
maximum is all it will take.
To keep from switching the wires, a
simple RadioShack Double Pole Double
Throw (DPDT) switch can be wired in to
provide Mode One/Mode Two switching.
In this case, unless you also want to rotate
the other toggle switches, you will have to
adjust to their location. In many flight
modes of the RealFlight simulator, I have
noticed that they are not used at all.
Simple, wasn’t it? Many electronics
chores are; you should not shy away from
them. After all, we all learned!
Where Are the Kids? Please bear with me
while I stray off the main subject, but it is
important that we recognize and support
the next generation of Radio Control (RC)
fliers, as rare as they seem to be. AMA’s
position on the subject is well known, with
its scholarship program. Thus I’m going to
introduce you to two fledgling RCers I had
the pleasure of meeting this year. The fact
that they are even rarer since they are
young ladies is a nice bonus.
Costa Rica’s Saylin Madrigal is
(almost) 19, a student at a local university,
and with only four months of “stick time”
was confident enough to fly at the 2002
Tropical Fun Fly in front of hundreds of
spectators, placing second in the novice
division. As of this writing, she has
graduated to her first low-winger and is
probably considering what her next step
should be. She’s an enthusiastic
“aeromodelista.”
Carmen Boquin is a mature 15-year-old
who resides in Tegucigalpa, Honduras. She
had yet to cut the training cord when I last
saw her Tegus in June, but she has
probably done so by now. Carmen’s uncle
introduced her to RC airplanes; she was
invited to try her hand at flying and
immediately liked RC.
Buena suerte (good luck) and feliz
aterrizaje (happy landing) to both of these
young ladies. I wish there were more
youngsters, male and female, enjoying this
great hobby with us old folks!
equipment protection: Most of us know
that it’s necessary to protect our airborne
electronic equipment with sponge-rubber
padding. Properly used it keeps out harmful
engine vibrations, and at those times when
our luck runs out and the ground comes up
and hits one of our airplanes, this padding
often makes the difference between being
able to reinstall the radio and flying again
or making a trip to a service center.
I have found a good, inexpensive source
of such necessary protection: your local
home-improvement store (Home Depot,
OSH, or whatever name they go by in your
area). More specifically, look in the
plumbing section for pipe-insulating
tubing. My local store carries it under the
trade names ArmaFlex and ArmaCell.
Being sponge tubing of different internal
diameters and a half inch or so wall
thickness, it is just the right size for most
receivers and battery packs. A six-foot
length will take care of your needs for
many airplanes.
In addition to using this tubing around
receivers and batteries, I find this insulation
useful as a filler in those airplanes with
radio compartments. I cut it so that it is a
tight fit across the fuselage sides; it is light
and perfect for the task.
Such pipe insulation comes in two
types: one is a complete tube and the other
is split lengthwise with some kind of
fantastic adhesive applied under a peel-off
protector. It sets instantly; when joined, the
two parts are there to stay. The solid tube is
intended to be applied to water pipes as
they are being installed, and the split type
is necessary when the plumbing is already
in place. Try it!
my address is at the top of the column,
and my name is not “Elroy”! MA
January 2003 81