Also included in this column:
• Hobby-oriented frequency
scanners
• Neat and easy lightening holes
• Battery-mounting safety
thoughts
• Model-article reference source
• Reading onboard RC-system
voltage
THIS IS THE 34th monthly column in
which I try to give you the best possible
answers to questions you have written or
E-mailed to me. Each new inquiry is
given a sequential number for
identification purposes.
A good many questions and answers
have been posted to the AMA Web site at
www.modelaircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp.
Unfortunately that posting stopped in
August 2005 and will not continue until
this section of the site is revamped. In the
meantime, if you can’t find the subject
matter you are interested in, drop me an
E-mail or letter and I will try to assist
you.
Q269: “I seem to have problems holding
onto my RC transmitter and moving the
control sticks at the same time. I almost
feel at times like I’m more worried about
dropping the transmitter than flying my
aircraft. I’ve seen these transmitter
supporting trays and wonder if they are
any good and where I might purchase
one.”
A269: Transmitter supporting trays have
been around for many years. They have
been, and are, more popular with
European RC fliers than they are in the
US.
Through the years many of the
prominent RC-accessory manufacturers
developed and marketed these trays, such
as Du-Bro and Robart. However, they
never achieved much popularity and
were eventually discontinued.
I did see a sophisticated (and
expensive) transmitter supporting tray at
the recent NEAT (Northeast Electric
Aircraft Technology) Fair in upstate New
York. It was called the Pro UltraLite
Tray, offered by PropellerHead Hobbies
([732] 764-9796, extension 201; Web site:
www.propellerheadhobbies.com).
I have included a photo I took at the
Fair showing a potential customer trying
The Pro UltraLite Tray from PropellerHead Hobbies is CNC machined from 6061-T6
aluminum and weighs only a pound. Aluminum brackets hang over both shoulders.
The Pro UltraLite Tray is quick to attach and adjust, fits any
size pilot, and may be used with almost all RC transmitters.
The Spring Air Products Ultimate Radio Tray (item 120) sells
for $85. It is easy to use and fully adjustable.
January 2007 81
“Are dedicated scanning receivers
available from sources in our hobby
industry? Something that doesn’t take a
radio expert to operate?”
A270: Throughout the years various RCsystem
and accessory manufacturers have
sold scanning receivers that alert you
when an RC channel is in use. Hobbico
currently has such a product called the
“Frequency Checker.” It will scan all 50
of our RC channels in the 72-73 MHz
band.
There are 50 LEDs placed on the front
panel of this scanner. If a signal is
received on an RC channel, that channelnumber
LED will light up as a warning
not to turn on your transmitter on the
same channel. This device normally has
approximately a 1,000-foot range, but by
using an optional whip antenna that range
can be tripled.
This scanner might prove helpful
when you are determining whether or not
product is called the “Ultimate
Transmitter Tray” (catalog number 120).
It sells for $85 and is adjustable to
accommodate almost any RC transmitter.
I have no firsthand knowledge of
either tray, but I felt that it was important
to let you know about the concept and a
couple sources.
Q270: “I know that a frequency scanning
receiver is built into some RC transmitters
and that it won’t allow the signal to go on
the air (broadcast) until it is sure the
particular channel is clear and not in use. I
also know you can buy scanning receivers
at places like RadioShack.
The Hobbico Frequency Checker scans all
50 RC aircraft channels from 72 to 73
MHz. It will tell you instantly if someone
is operating on your RC channel before
you turn on.
An easy way to trim the projecting length of
machine screws is to use a Dremel rotary
tool with a cutoff wheel. It works much
better than cutting pliers.
Forstner drill bits can cut accurate holes. They work well when it comes to drilling
lightening holes in your model aircraft’s sheet structures.
When you mount your motors, make sure the mounting screws don’t project beyond the
firewall. If they do, on a hard impact the battery pack could move forward and the
extended machine screw could easily puncture the Li-Poly battery, rendering it useless.
the Pro UltraLite Tray. This picture is
somewhat busy because of the show
crowds; the company’s Web site gives
you a better idea of what it looks like.
This is certainly a quality-built
product, but it comes at a big price. When
you use these trays it is suggested that
you extend the length of your transmitter
control sticks. Stick extensions are
available.
The September 2006 “Frequently
Asked Questions” column (page 102)
shows one of many stick extensions
available. There are even styles that have
a “knob” at the end of the stick to allow
for a better grip.
I searched the Internet and found
another transmitter-tray supplier: Spring
Air Products of West Melbourne, Florida
(www.retracts.com/index.html). Its
another flying field is too close to your
field. A club might consider purchasing
such a scanner to keep at its flying site. At
$59.95, this is certainly not a big
investment for such a safety device.
You can learn more about this scanner
at www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap
0340.html. You can also download a copy
of the instruction manual, which provides
all the detailed information.
Q271: “I build many of my own designs
and also aircraft from kits. In many
instances I have to drill lightening holes in
the sheet balsa in the interest of saving
weight.
“The holes I cut come out ragged and
uneven. How can I do a more professional
job?”
A271: I generally cut my lightening holes
using a Dremel tool with a 3/8-inch drum
sander. The holes never have the exact
same shape, but it gets the job done.
A more professional way is to file, or
“skive,” one end of a large-diameter copper
tube so it is almost as sharp as a knife.
Then drill a hole on the opposite end and
insert a wood dowel to use as a handle.
Then it is only a matter of rotating the
copper tube to cut holes; it is like using a
cookie cutter.
The most professional job can be
achieved by using a special wood drill bit,
known as a Forstner. It can cut holes as
large as an inch or more in diameter and
leave the outline perfectly smooth. These
bits are not cheap, but the job they do is
worth it.
One source is www.woodnshop.com/
FORSTNER_BITS.htm. There you can
purchase regular and carbide-tipped bits.
The regular bit is fine for our balsa wood.
A typical 1-inch-diameter regular bit sells
for $7.79, which isn’t out of sight.
Q272: “I just wanted to share an
experience with you concerning the
mounting of a Li-Poly battery pack in my
airplane. Like many modelers I placed my
two-cell Li-Poly pack up forward on the
floor of the fuselage, directly behind the
firewall.
“Unfortunately for me, when I bolted
my brushless motor in place, I allowed the
two small hex-head machine screws to
project out well beyond the ‘T’-nuts. In
other words, they ended up sticking out
into the battery compartment.
“On my first hard landing, one of those
screws punched a hole in my battery pack
and essentially killed it. Fortunately a fire
did not result. I think you should make a
safety statement on this potential problem.”
A272: I was able to duplicate your
situation on one of my aircraft. You can see
in the accompanying photograph that the
mounting screw is protruding beyond the
rear of the firewall. If the battery were to
slide forward, as it might in a hard landing,
goodbye, battery pack!
The solution is to make sure you cut off
the ends of the screws flush with the rear of
the T-nuts so they can’t “stab” the battery
pack. You can cut down these small screws
with a Dremel cutoff wheel; just make sure
you wear safety glasses when doing it.
Q273: “Someone told me that they recently
received a reference source for an excellent
collection of published model magazine
articles. Would you know what this is all
about?”
A273: The source you mention was sent
out via E-mail by Al Lidberg, who runs
A.A. Lidberg Model Plan Service
(www.aalmps.com). Apparently Al found
this valuable source of information at
www.antiquemodeler.org/adl/Magazine-
Index/.
I looked at the Web site and found a
compilation of articles from Air Trails
Index, Flying Models, Flying Aces Index,
Model Aviation Index, Model Builder
Index, and Engine Tests Index. Each index
is organized by type of aircraft and
provides the publication name, article title,
date (month and year) of publication, and
the exact pages involved. It is clearly one
of the best sources of model-aircraft
articles I have ever seen.
In the same E-mail there was mention
made that Society of Antique Modelers
Librarian Gene Wallock (Velinak@
aol.com) will make copies of articles for a
nominal fee. I’m not sure how many
magazines Gene actually has, but it is
worth contacting him when you have
specific needs.
The combination of these articles, in
addition to the AMA Plans Service which
includes the John Pond collection, ought to
satisfy the needs of anyone in our hobby. A
big thank you to Al Lidberg for bringing
this to our attention.
Q274: “I remember seeing an
advertisement for a product called R/C
Reporter that enabled you to read onboard
RC-system voltage and that it was also a
glitch counter and finally a lost airplane
locator. Would you have any details?”
A274: Winged Shadow Systems
(www.rcreporter.com) is owned by Dave
West, who came up with a revised R/C
Reporter he calls the “R/C Reporter-E.”
This new version is ideal for electricpowered
models using a BEC (which is
included in the ESC). It will allow you to
measure the motor battery voltage rather
than the RC-system battery voltage.
Winged Shadow Systems was kind
enough to place its R/C Reporter-E
instruction sheet on its Web site. The three
pages of detailed information, including
schematic diagrams, are in PDF format for
easy reading and reproduction. You can
access that file at www.rcreporter.com/
rcr_inst-e.pdf.
That’s a wrap for this month!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 80,81,82
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 80,81,82
Also included in this column:
• Hobby-oriented frequency
scanners
• Neat and easy lightening holes
• Battery-mounting safety
thoughts
• Model-article reference source
• Reading onboard RC-system
voltage
THIS IS THE 34th monthly column in
which I try to give you the best possible
answers to questions you have written or
E-mailed to me. Each new inquiry is
given a sequential number for
identification purposes.
A good many questions and answers
have been posted to the AMA Web site at
www.modelaircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp.
Unfortunately that posting stopped in
August 2005 and will not continue until
this section of the site is revamped. In the
meantime, if you can’t find the subject
matter you are interested in, drop me an
E-mail or letter and I will try to assist
you.
Q269: “I seem to have problems holding
onto my RC transmitter and moving the
control sticks at the same time. I almost
feel at times like I’m more worried about
dropping the transmitter than flying my
aircraft. I’ve seen these transmitter
supporting trays and wonder if they are
any good and where I might purchase
one.”
A269: Transmitter supporting trays have
been around for many years. They have
been, and are, more popular with
European RC fliers than they are in the
US.
Through the years many of the
prominent RC-accessory manufacturers
developed and marketed these trays, such
as Du-Bro and Robart. However, they
never achieved much popularity and
were eventually discontinued.
I did see a sophisticated (and
expensive) transmitter supporting tray at
the recent NEAT (Northeast Electric
Aircraft Technology) Fair in upstate New
York. It was called the Pro UltraLite
Tray, offered by PropellerHead Hobbies
([732] 764-9796, extension 201; Web site:
www.propellerheadhobbies.com).
I have included a photo I took at the
Fair showing a potential customer trying
The Pro UltraLite Tray from PropellerHead Hobbies is CNC machined from 6061-T6
aluminum and weighs only a pound. Aluminum brackets hang over both shoulders.
The Pro UltraLite Tray is quick to attach and adjust, fits any
size pilot, and may be used with almost all RC transmitters.
The Spring Air Products Ultimate Radio Tray (item 120) sells
for $85. It is easy to use and fully adjustable.
January 2007 81
“Are dedicated scanning receivers
available from sources in our hobby
industry? Something that doesn’t take a
radio expert to operate?”
A270: Throughout the years various RCsystem
and accessory manufacturers have
sold scanning receivers that alert you
when an RC channel is in use. Hobbico
currently has such a product called the
“Frequency Checker.” It will scan all 50
of our RC channels in the 72-73 MHz
band.
There are 50 LEDs placed on the front
panel of this scanner. If a signal is
received on an RC channel, that channelnumber
LED will light up as a warning
not to turn on your transmitter on the
same channel. This device normally has
approximately a 1,000-foot range, but by
using an optional whip antenna that range
can be tripled.
This scanner might prove helpful
when you are determining whether or not
product is called the “Ultimate
Transmitter Tray” (catalog number 120).
It sells for $85 and is adjustable to
accommodate almost any RC transmitter.
I have no firsthand knowledge of
either tray, but I felt that it was important
to let you know about the concept and a
couple sources.
Q270: “I know that a frequency scanning
receiver is built into some RC transmitters
and that it won’t allow the signal to go on
the air (broadcast) until it is sure the
particular channel is clear and not in use. I
also know you can buy scanning receivers
at places like RadioShack.
The Hobbico Frequency Checker scans all
50 RC aircraft channels from 72 to 73
MHz. It will tell you instantly if someone
is operating on your RC channel before
you turn on.
An easy way to trim the projecting length of
machine screws is to use a Dremel rotary
tool with a cutoff wheel. It works much
better than cutting pliers.
Forstner drill bits can cut accurate holes. They work well when it comes to drilling
lightening holes in your model aircraft’s sheet structures.
When you mount your motors, make sure the mounting screws don’t project beyond the
firewall. If they do, on a hard impact the battery pack could move forward and the
extended machine screw could easily puncture the Li-Poly battery, rendering it useless.
the Pro UltraLite Tray. This picture is
somewhat busy because of the show
crowds; the company’s Web site gives
you a better idea of what it looks like.
This is certainly a quality-built
product, but it comes at a big price. When
you use these trays it is suggested that
you extend the length of your transmitter
control sticks. Stick extensions are
available.
The September 2006 “Frequently
Asked Questions” column (page 102)
shows one of many stick extensions
available. There are even styles that have
a “knob” at the end of the stick to allow
for a better grip.
I searched the Internet and found
another transmitter-tray supplier: Spring
Air Products of West Melbourne, Florida
(www.retracts.com/index.html). Its
another flying field is too close to your
field. A club might consider purchasing
such a scanner to keep at its flying site. At
$59.95, this is certainly not a big
investment for such a safety device.
You can learn more about this scanner
at www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap
0340.html. You can also download a copy
of the instruction manual, which provides
all the detailed information.
Q271: “I build many of my own designs
and also aircraft from kits. In many
instances I have to drill lightening holes in
the sheet balsa in the interest of saving
weight.
“The holes I cut come out ragged and
uneven. How can I do a more professional
job?”
A271: I generally cut my lightening holes
using a Dremel tool with a 3/8-inch drum
sander. The holes never have the exact
same shape, but it gets the job done.
A more professional way is to file, or
“skive,” one end of a large-diameter copper
tube so it is almost as sharp as a knife.
Then drill a hole on the opposite end and
insert a wood dowel to use as a handle.
Then it is only a matter of rotating the
copper tube to cut holes; it is like using a
cookie cutter.
The most professional job can be
achieved by using a special wood drill bit,
known as a Forstner. It can cut holes as
large as an inch or more in diameter and
leave the outline perfectly smooth. These
bits are not cheap, but the job they do is
worth it.
One source is www.woodnshop.com/
FORSTNER_BITS.htm. There you can
purchase regular and carbide-tipped bits.
The regular bit is fine for our balsa wood.
A typical 1-inch-diameter regular bit sells
for $7.79, which isn’t out of sight.
Q272: “I just wanted to share an
experience with you concerning the
mounting of a Li-Poly battery pack in my
airplane. Like many modelers I placed my
two-cell Li-Poly pack up forward on the
floor of the fuselage, directly behind the
firewall.
“Unfortunately for me, when I bolted
my brushless motor in place, I allowed the
two small hex-head machine screws to
project out well beyond the ‘T’-nuts. In
other words, they ended up sticking out
into the battery compartment.
“On my first hard landing, one of those
screws punched a hole in my battery pack
and essentially killed it. Fortunately a fire
did not result. I think you should make a
safety statement on this potential problem.”
A272: I was able to duplicate your
situation on one of my aircraft. You can see
in the accompanying photograph that the
mounting screw is protruding beyond the
rear of the firewall. If the battery were to
slide forward, as it might in a hard landing,
goodbye, battery pack!
The solution is to make sure you cut off
the ends of the screws flush with the rear of
the T-nuts so they can’t “stab” the battery
pack. You can cut down these small screws
with a Dremel cutoff wheel; just make sure
you wear safety glasses when doing it.
Q273: “Someone told me that they recently
received a reference source for an excellent
collection of published model magazine
articles. Would you know what this is all
about?”
A273: The source you mention was sent
out via E-mail by Al Lidberg, who runs
A.A. Lidberg Model Plan Service
(www.aalmps.com). Apparently Al found
this valuable source of information at
www.antiquemodeler.org/adl/Magazine-
Index/.
I looked at the Web site and found a
compilation of articles from Air Trails
Index, Flying Models, Flying Aces Index,
Model Aviation Index, Model Builder
Index, and Engine Tests Index. Each index
is organized by type of aircraft and
provides the publication name, article title,
date (month and year) of publication, and
the exact pages involved. It is clearly one
of the best sources of model-aircraft
articles I have ever seen.
In the same E-mail there was mention
made that Society of Antique Modelers
Librarian Gene Wallock (Velinak@
aol.com) will make copies of articles for a
nominal fee. I’m not sure how many
magazines Gene actually has, but it is
worth contacting him when you have
specific needs.
The combination of these articles, in
addition to the AMA Plans Service which
includes the John Pond collection, ought to
satisfy the needs of anyone in our hobby. A
big thank you to Al Lidberg for bringing
this to our attention.
Q274: “I remember seeing an
advertisement for a product called R/C
Reporter that enabled you to read onboard
RC-system voltage and that it was also a
glitch counter and finally a lost airplane
locator. Would you have any details?”
A274: Winged Shadow Systems
(www.rcreporter.com) is owned by Dave
West, who came up with a revised R/C
Reporter he calls the “R/C Reporter-E.”
This new version is ideal for electricpowered
models using a BEC (which is
included in the ESC). It will allow you to
measure the motor battery voltage rather
than the RC-system battery voltage.
Winged Shadow Systems was kind
enough to place its R/C Reporter-E
instruction sheet on its Web site. The three
pages of detailed information, including
schematic diagrams, are in PDF format for
easy reading and reproduction. You can
access that file at www.rcreporter.com/
rcr_inst-e.pdf.
That’s a wrap for this month!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 80,81,82
Also included in this column:
• Hobby-oriented frequency
scanners
• Neat and easy lightening holes
• Battery-mounting safety
thoughts
• Model-article reference source
• Reading onboard RC-system
voltage
THIS IS THE 34th monthly column in
which I try to give you the best possible
answers to questions you have written or
E-mailed to me. Each new inquiry is
given a sequential number for
identification purposes.
A good many questions and answers
have been posted to the AMA Web site at
www.modelaircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp.
Unfortunately that posting stopped in
August 2005 and will not continue until
this section of the site is revamped. In the
meantime, if you can’t find the subject
matter you are interested in, drop me an
E-mail or letter and I will try to assist
you.
Q269: “I seem to have problems holding
onto my RC transmitter and moving the
control sticks at the same time. I almost
feel at times like I’m more worried about
dropping the transmitter than flying my
aircraft. I’ve seen these transmitter
supporting trays and wonder if they are
any good and where I might purchase
one.”
A269: Transmitter supporting trays have
been around for many years. They have
been, and are, more popular with
European RC fliers than they are in the
US.
Through the years many of the
prominent RC-accessory manufacturers
developed and marketed these trays, such
as Du-Bro and Robart. However, they
never achieved much popularity and
were eventually discontinued.
I did see a sophisticated (and
expensive) transmitter supporting tray at
the recent NEAT (Northeast Electric
Aircraft Technology) Fair in upstate New
York. It was called the Pro UltraLite
Tray, offered by PropellerHead Hobbies
([732] 764-9796, extension 201; Web site:
www.propellerheadhobbies.com).
I have included a photo I took at the
Fair showing a potential customer trying
The Pro UltraLite Tray from PropellerHead Hobbies is CNC machined from 6061-T6
aluminum and weighs only a pound. Aluminum brackets hang over both shoulders.
The Pro UltraLite Tray is quick to attach and adjust, fits any
size pilot, and may be used with almost all RC transmitters.
The Spring Air Products Ultimate Radio Tray (item 120) sells
for $85. It is easy to use and fully adjustable.
January 2007 81
“Are dedicated scanning receivers
available from sources in our hobby
industry? Something that doesn’t take a
radio expert to operate?”
A270: Throughout the years various RCsystem
and accessory manufacturers have
sold scanning receivers that alert you
when an RC channel is in use. Hobbico
currently has such a product called the
“Frequency Checker.” It will scan all 50
of our RC channels in the 72-73 MHz
band.
There are 50 LEDs placed on the front
panel of this scanner. If a signal is
received on an RC channel, that channelnumber
LED will light up as a warning
not to turn on your transmitter on the
same channel. This device normally has
approximately a 1,000-foot range, but by
using an optional whip antenna that range
can be tripled.
This scanner might prove helpful
when you are determining whether or not
product is called the “Ultimate
Transmitter Tray” (catalog number 120).
It sells for $85 and is adjustable to
accommodate almost any RC transmitter.
I have no firsthand knowledge of
either tray, but I felt that it was important
to let you know about the concept and a
couple sources.
Q270: “I know that a frequency scanning
receiver is built into some RC transmitters
and that it won’t allow the signal to go on
the air (broadcast) until it is sure the
particular channel is clear and not in use. I
also know you can buy scanning receivers
at places like RadioShack.
The Hobbico Frequency Checker scans all
50 RC aircraft channels from 72 to 73
MHz. It will tell you instantly if someone
is operating on your RC channel before
you turn on.
An easy way to trim the projecting length of
machine screws is to use a Dremel rotary
tool with a cutoff wheel. It works much
better than cutting pliers.
Forstner drill bits can cut accurate holes. They work well when it comes to drilling
lightening holes in your model aircraft’s sheet structures.
When you mount your motors, make sure the mounting screws don’t project beyond the
firewall. If they do, on a hard impact the battery pack could move forward and the
extended machine screw could easily puncture the Li-Poly battery, rendering it useless.
the Pro UltraLite Tray. This picture is
somewhat busy because of the show
crowds; the company’s Web site gives
you a better idea of what it looks like.
This is certainly a quality-built
product, but it comes at a big price. When
you use these trays it is suggested that
you extend the length of your transmitter
control sticks. Stick extensions are
available.
The September 2006 “Frequently
Asked Questions” column (page 102)
shows one of many stick extensions
available. There are even styles that have
a “knob” at the end of the stick to allow
for a better grip.
I searched the Internet and found
another transmitter-tray supplier: Spring
Air Products of West Melbourne, Florida
(www.retracts.com/index.html). Its
another flying field is too close to your
field. A club might consider purchasing
such a scanner to keep at its flying site. At
$59.95, this is certainly not a big
investment for such a safety device.
You can learn more about this scanner
at www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap
0340.html. You can also download a copy
of the instruction manual, which provides
all the detailed information.
Q271: “I build many of my own designs
and also aircraft from kits. In many
instances I have to drill lightening holes in
the sheet balsa in the interest of saving
weight.
“The holes I cut come out ragged and
uneven. How can I do a more professional
job?”
A271: I generally cut my lightening holes
using a Dremel tool with a 3/8-inch drum
sander. The holes never have the exact
same shape, but it gets the job done.
A more professional way is to file, or
“skive,” one end of a large-diameter copper
tube so it is almost as sharp as a knife.
Then drill a hole on the opposite end and
insert a wood dowel to use as a handle.
Then it is only a matter of rotating the
copper tube to cut holes; it is like using a
cookie cutter.
The most professional job can be
achieved by using a special wood drill bit,
known as a Forstner. It can cut holes as
large as an inch or more in diameter and
leave the outline perfectly smooth. These
bits are not cheap, but the job they do is
worth it.
One source is www.woodnshop.com/
FORSTNER_BITS.htm. There you can
purchase regular and carbide-tipped bits.
The regular bit is fine for our balsa wood.
A typical 1-inch-diameter regular bit sells
for $7.79, which isn’t out of sight.
Q272: “I just wanted to share an
experience with you concerning the
mounting of a Li-Poly battery pack in my
airplane. Like many modelers I placed my
two-cell Li-Poly pack up forward on the
floor of the fuselage, directly behind the
firewall.
“Unfortunately for me, when I bolted
my brushless motor in place, I allowed the
two small hex-head machine screws to
project out well beyond the ‘T’-nuts. In
other words, they ended up sticking out
into the battery compartment.
“On my first hard landing, one of those
screws punched a hole in my battery pack
and essentially killed it. Fortunately a fire
did not result. I think you should make a
safety statement on this potential problem.”
A272: I was able to duplicate your
situation on one of my aircraft. You can see
in the accompanying photograph that the
mounting screw is protruding beyond the
rear of the firewall. If the battery were to
slide forward, as it might in a hard landing,
goodbye, battery pack!
The solution is to make sure you cut off
the ends of the screws flush with the rear of
the T-nuts so they can’t “stab” the battery
pack. You can cut down these small screws
with a Dremel cutoff wheel; just make sure
you wear safety glasses when doing it.
Q273: “Someone told me that they recently
received a reference source for an excellent
collection of published model magazine
articles. Would you know what this is all
about?”
A273: The source you mention was sent
out via E-mail by Al Lidberg, who runs
A.A. Lidberg Model Plan Service
(www.aalmps.com). Apparently Al found
this valuable source of information at
www.antiquemodeler.org/adl/Magazine-
Index/.
I looked at the Web site and found a
compilation of articles from Air Trails
Index, Flying Models, Flying Aces Index,
Model Aviation Index, Model Builder
Index, and Engine Tests Index. Each index
is organized by type of aircraft and
provides the publication name, article title,
date (month and year) of publication, and
the exact pages involved. It is clearly one
of the best sources of model-aircraft
articles I have ever seen.
In the same E-mail there was mention
made that Society of Antique Modelers
Librarian Gene Wallock (Velinak@
aol.com) will make copies of articles for a
nominal fee. I’m not sure how many
magazines Gene actually has, but it is
worth contacting him when you have
specific needs.
The combination of these articles, in
addition to the AMA Plans Service which
includes the John Pond collection, ought to
satisfy the needs of anyone in our hobby. A
big thank you to Al Lidberg for bringing
this to our attention.
Q274: “I remember seeing an
advertisement for a product called R/C
Reporter that enabled you to read onboard
RC-system voltage and that it was also a
glitch counter and finally a lost airplane
locator. Would you have any details?”
A274: Winged Shadow Systems
(www.rcreporter.com) is owned by Dave
West, who came up with a revised R/C
Reporter he calls the “R/C Reporter-E.”
This new version is ideal for electricpowered
models using a BEC (which is
included in the ESC). It will allow you to
measure the motor battery voltage rather
than the RC-system battery voltage.
Winged Shadow Systems was kind
enough to place its R/C Reporter-E
instruction sheet on its Web site. The three
pages of detailed information, including
schematic diagrams, are in PDF format for
easy reading and reproduction. You can
access that file at www.rcreporter.com/
rcr_inst-e.pdf.
That’s a wrap for this month!