Removing iron-on covering
April 2009 95
? Frequently Asked Questions Bob Aberle | [email protected]
Also included in this column:
• Jedelsky wing suggestion
• Model engine blue book
• Horizon Hobby’s “Learn to Fly”
brochure
The top view of the Jedelsky all-balsa wing
has no curvature. Triangular in shape, this
structure type is typically open on the
bottom and does not need to be covered.
Bob used a Jedelsky wing airfoil in this small, 100-square-inch wing. There are only a few
wing ribs, and the structure is all balsa sheet. There are no open bays.
The balsa sheet had thin cyanoacrylate applied to it before the
UltraCote was applied. Thus the covering comes off in small
pieces, making the job tedious.
An X-Acto knife with No. 11 blade is used to peel
transparent UltraCote Lite iron-on covering from a
balsa sheet surface. It won’t always come off easily.
PLEASE WRITE IN with your questions;
that is the only way we can keep this
column format going. When referring to
published Q-and-As (for follow-ups),
provide the number as a reference.
References to addresses and Web sites
are now placed in a group, separate from
the text, at the end of this column under
“Sources.”
Q393: “How do you remove iron-on
covering, like MonoKote, that has been
applied to aircraft sheeting? A close friend
of mine asked me to help him strip the
insignia blue MonoKote iron-on covering
off of his F4U Corsair.
“I remember a technique using a plastic
bag, painting on paint thinner and then
putting the parts inside the bag. I would
guess you have to go over the area with pins
to sort of perforate the area so that the
thinner can penetrate through the covering.
In other words to allow the thinner or
solvent to get to the adhesive part of the
covering. Does this sound right to you?”
A393: The answer is: it’s not easy! Most
modelers are normally concerned with
getting the iron-on covering to stick to an
aircraft structure and remain in place. We
don’t even want to see blisters or the like
that require frequent reironing. But there
are times when a covering must be
removed, especially when aircraft repairs
are necessary.
I remove iron-on covering using an XActo
knife with a No. 11 blade. I get under
the covering and try to lift it off in as few
pieces as possible. I have never resorted to
thinners or solvents to do the job.
Removing covering is further
complicated if you use one of the surface
covering adhesives such as Balsarite. That
04sig3.QXD 2/24/09 2:07 PM Page 95
product’s job is to make the covering stick
better. Actually, anything applied to the
balsa, such as dope, paint, and cyanoacrylate
glue, will make it more difficult to remove
the covering.
I asked three hobby experts for their
advice: the late Scott Christensen, who was
vice president of research and development at
Sig Manufacturing; Thayer Syme, editor of
Fly RC magazine; and Faye Stilley, who
literally wrote the books about iron-on
covering. His latest, Covering R/C Airplanes:
Vol. 2, is available from the AMA Web site.
To find it, click on “Shop AMA” on the front
page.
Thayer Syme indicated that he uses a heat
gun, a very hot iron, and then paper towel to
lift the remaining adhesive. He usually ends
up doing some sanding as well. Thayer stated
that he was unfamiliar with the technique
involving the plastic bag and paint thinner that
the reader mentioned.
Scott Christensen said that he used the
plastic bag method and that it “ … didn’t
work worth a darn!” He went on to say:
“In all my years working with iron-on
plastic films I’ve decided that there is only
one way to remove the stuff. Start by peeling
away as much of the plastic covering as
possible. Use the sharp tip of an X-Acto blade
to ‘pick’ at the smaller pieces.
“Take your time and get every last piece
off the aircraft structure. In the case of
insignia blue (like on this Corsair), there will
be a great deal of color that is literally soaked
into the wood. What I have done with this
situation is to work with acetone, a rag, light
sandpaper and a bit of elbow grease. This
must be done in a well-ventilated area.
“The color on the adhesive side of the
MonoKote is basically ink. Acetone will
eventually break this ink/adhesive down to the
point that some of it can be rubbed off and
the more stubborn areas can be lightly
sanded.
“Of course, if you are re-covering in the
same color, this may not be a concern. The
trick is to get the wood structure entirely
smooth and sanded, ready for finishing.
There is no real ‘silver bullet’ for this job.
Just a little determination and a bit of
effort.”
Faye Stilley wrapped up this discussion
by saying:
“If the original covering wasn’t welded
to the wood with too much heat, it should
peel off fairly easily. However, it will stick
like crazy to any area where adhesive was
left on the surface, like thin CA wicking
through the balsa sheeting.
“On the other hand, if it was ironed
down with too much heat, like most guys
do, it will have to be sanded off. That is a
tedious job at best, because you do not
want to cut into the balsa to any degree.
“I don’t know of any chemical that will
release the heat-sensitive adhesive without
damaging the wood or at least softening
the cement that was used to assemble the
structure in the first place. Sorry I don’t
have a magic answer. Sandpaper will do
the trick, but it is not a fun job.”
I thank these experts for sharing some
thoughts on this subject.
It seems that peeling the covering off
with a knife blade or sanding it off are the
best ways to remove iron-on covering.
Applying chemicals runs the risk of
damaging the model’s structure or softening
the cement used to assemble the aircraft.
Q394: “I’ve noticed over the past couple of
years that you went to the Jedelsky open
structure wing airfoil on many of your
smaller size aircraft designs. Do these airfoils
really work? Are there any options to using
this type structure?”
A394: The Jedelsky wing section is an allbalsa
structure that has a triangular airfoil
rather than a gradual curvature. It is fast to
build, since the ribs are all straight (not
curved); therefore, it is easy to cut out. The
resulting wing structure is strong and
lightweight, no covering is actually required,
and the aircraft seems to fly well with it.
I admit that the airplanes using this type
of airfoil tend to look strange. For a
modeler who doesn’t care to cut out a lot
of wing ribs with all the notches for the
spars and such, the Jedelsky can offer
some time-saving advantages.
But, yes, there is an alternative. I
designed a little 100-square-inch, 4-
ounce aircraft that I call the “Turn-
Around” (which was featured in the
January 2009 RC Micro World Online
Magazine. The source list has the Web
address.). I didn’t want to paint it to save
weight, so I decided to use lightweight
iron-on covering.
After covering the top of the wing, I
thought, Why not cover the bottom as
well? On a Jedelsky wing, the bottom
would normally be left open. I applied
the covering, which you will see in the
photos. It definitely makes for a neater
appearance.
The other advantage is that the
covered wing is much easier to clean.
This would be especially true when
flying a fueled model. Cleaning off the
fuel residue with an uncovered wing
bottom isn’t fun.
Q395: “I have a bunch of old model
airplane engines and would like to ‘cash
them in’ so that I might purchase some
more modern engines and also some RC
equipment. My problem is knowing the
true value of these engines before I offer
them for sale. Any ideas?”
A395: As with so many things these
days, you look for the “blue book” to tell
you what something is worth. It has been
done for years with automobiles.
I found an advertisement in the classified
section of a popular hobby magazine that
mentioned Anderson’s Blue Book. I looked
it up and found that it is published by Frank
Anderson, who lives in Canada.
He claims that this book is the latest
collector and online auction pricing guide
for collectible model airplane engines, be
they ignition, diesel, or glow. It contains 240
pages, lists more than 1,500 engines (in the
1911-2005 time frame), and has 900 photos.
The Web site also mentions a 1/2A
engine book. A fifth edition of Anderson’s
Blue Book is due out in April 2009, which
is soon approaching.
Q396: “I recently came upon a really
simplified brochure offered by Horizon
Hobby, titled, ‘Learn to Fly—The World
of Radio Control.’ Although basic in
content, it is a good starting point. You
might want to tell your readers about this
pamphlet.”
A396: This isn’t a question-and-answer,
but I want to make it clear that I want to
hear from our members and will pass on
any information that can help our hobby
continue to grow.
I obtained several copies of this
brochure, published by Horizon Hobby. It
is identified as the “Intro to RC
Brochure,” with a catalog identification
code of HHDCN2RC.
The full-color publication has 15 pages
and starts with, “The World of Radio
Control Flight is Waiting for You.”
Another section is under the heading,
“Where RC Flight Can Take You.”
It is basic in nature and does naturally
tie in with Horizon’s RC product line. But
it still makes for a good handout for hobby
shops and RC model clubs. I was also
pleased to see the nice plug for the AMA
in the brochure. Copies are available from
Horizon Hobby. MA
Sources:
“Shop AMA”
(800) 435-9262, extension 501 or 504
www.modelaircraft.org
RC Micro World
www.cloud9rc.com
Anderson’s Blue Book
(705) 436-1970
www.andersonsbluebook.com
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/04
Page Numbers: 95,96,97,98
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/04
Page Numbers: 95,96,97,98
Removing iron-on covering
April 2009 95
? Frequently Asked Questions Bob Aberle | [email protected]
Also included in this column:
• Jedelsky wing suggestion
• Model engine blue book
• Horizon Hobby’s “Learn to Fly”
brochure
The top view of the Jedelsky all-balsa wing
has no curvature. Triangular in shape, this
structure type is typically open on the
bottom and does not need to be covered.
Bob used a Jedelsky wing airfoil in this small, 100-square-inch wing. There are only a few
wing ribs, and the structure is all balsa sheet. There are no open bays.
The balsa sheet had thin cyanoacrylate applied to it before the
UltraCote was applied. Thus the covering comes off in small
pieces, making the job tedious.
An X-Acto knife with No. 11 blade is used to peel
transparent UltraCote Lite iron-on covering from a
balsa sheet surface. It won’t always come off easily.
PLEASE WRITE IN with your questions;
that is the only way we can keep this
column format going. When referring to
published Q-and-As (for follow-ups),
provide the number as a reference.
References to addresses and Web sites
are now placed in a group, separate from
the text, at the end of this column under
“Sources.”
Q393: “How do you remove iron-on
covering, like MonoKote, that has been
applied to aircraft sheeting? A close friend
of mine asked me to help him strip the
insignia blue MonoKote iron-on covering
off of his F4U Corsair.
“I remember a technique using a plastic
bag, painting on paint thinner and then
putting the parts inside the bag. I would
guess you have to go over the area with pins
to sort of perforate the area so that the
thinner can penetrate through the covering.
In other words to allow the thinner or
solvent to get to the adhesive part of the
covering. Does this sound right to you?”
A393: The answer is: it’s not easy! Most
modelers are normally concerned with
getting the iron-on covering to stick to an
aircraft structure and remain in place. We
don’t even want to see blisters or the like
that require frequent reironing. But there
are times when a covering must be
removed, especially when aircraft repairs
are necessary.
I remove iron-on covering using an XActo
knife with a No. 11 blade. I get under
the covering and try to lift it off in as few
pieces as possible. I have never resorted to
thinners or solvents to do the job.
Removing covering is further
complicated if you use one of the surface
covering adhesives such as Balsarite. That
04sig3.QXD 2/24/09 2:07 PM Page 95
product’s job is to make the covering stick
better. Actually, anything applied to the
balsa, such as dope, paint, and cyanoacrylate
glue, will make it more difficult to remove
the covering.
I asked three hobby experts for their
advice: the late Scott Christensen, who was
vice president of research and development at
Sig Manufacturing; Thayer Syme, editor of
Fly RC magazine; and Faye Stilley, who
literally wrote the books about iron-on
covering. His latest, Covering R/C Airplanes:
Vol. 2, is available from the AMA Web site.
To find it, click on “Shop AMA” on the front
page.
Thayer Syme indicated that he uses a heat
gun, a very hot iron, and then paper towel to
lift the remaining adhesive. He usually ends
up doing some sanding as well. Thayer stated
that he was unfamiliar with the technique
involving the plastic bag and paint thinner that
the reader mentioned.
Scott Christensen said that he used the
plastic bag method and that it “ … didn’t
work worth a darn!” He went on to say:
“In all my years working with iron-on
plastic films I’ve decided that there is only
one way to remove the stuff. Start by peeling
away as much of the plastic covering as
possible. Use the sharp tip of an X-Acto blade
to ‘pick’ at the smaller pieces.
“Take your time and get every last piece
off the aircraft structure. In the case of
insignia blue (like on this Corsair), there will
be a great deal of color that is literally soaked
into the wood. What I have done with this
situation is to work with acetone, a rag, light
sandpaper and a bit of elbow grease. This
must be done in a well-ventilated area.
“The color on the adhesive side of the
MonoKote is basically ink. Acetone will
eventually break this ink/adhesive down to the
point that some of it can be rubbed off and
the more stubborn areas can be lightly
sanded.
“Of course, if you are re-covering in the
same color, this may not be a concern. The
trick is to get the wood structure entirely
smooth and sanded, ready for finishing.
There is no real ‘silver bullet’ for this job.
Just a little determination and a bit of
effort.”
Faye Stilley wrapped up this discussion
by saying:
“If the original covering wasn’t welded
to the wood with too much heat, it should
peel off fairly easily. However, it will stick
like crazy to any area where adhesive was
left on the surface, like thin CA wicking
through the balsa sheeting.
“On the other hand, if it was ironed
down with too much heat, like most guys
do, it will have to be sanded off. That is a
tedious job at best, because you do not
want to cut into the balsa to any degree.
“I don’t know of any chemical that will
release the heat-sensitive adhesive without
damaging the wood or at least softening
the cement that was used to assemble the
structure in the first place. Sorry I don’t
have a magic answer. Sandpaper will do
the trick, but it is not a fun job.”
I thank these experts for sharing some
thoughts on this subject.
It seems that peeling the covering off
with a knife blade or sanding it off are the
best ways to remove iron-on covering.
Applying chemicals runs the risk of
damaging the model’s structure or softening
the cement used to assemble the aircraft.
Q394: “I’ve noticed over the past couple of
years that you went to the Jedelsky open
structure wing airfoil on many of your
smaller size aircraft designs. Do these airfoils
really work? Are there any options to using
this type structure?”
A394: The Jedelsky wing section is an allbalsa
structure that has a triangular airfoil
rather than a gradual curvature. It is fast to
build, since the ribs are all straight (not
curved); therefore, it is easy to cut out. The
resulting wing structure is strong and
lightweight, no covering is actually required,
and the aircraft seems to fly well with it.
I admit that the airplanes using this type
of airfoil tend to look strange. For a
modeler who doesn’t care to cut out a lot
of wing ribs with all the notches for the
spars and such, the Jedelsky can offer
some time-saving advantages.
But, yes, there is an alternative. I
designed a little 100-square-inch, 4-
ounce aircraft that I call the “Turn-
Around” (which was featured in the
January 2009 RC Micro World Online
Magazine. The source list has the Web
address.). I didn’t want to paint it to save
weight, so I decided to use lightweight
iron-on covering.
After covering the top of the wing, I
thought, Why not cover the bottom as
well? On a Jedelsky wing, the bottom
would normally be left open. I applied
the covering, which you will see in the
photos. It definitely makes for a neater
appearance.
The other advantage is that the
covered wing is much easier to clean.
This would be especially true when
flying a fueled model. Cleaning off the
fuel residue with an uncovered wing
bottom isn’t fun.
Q395: “I have a bunch of old model
airplane engines and would like to ‘cash
them in’ so that I might purchase some
more modern engines and also some RC
equipment. My problem is knowing the
true value of these engines before I offer
them for sale. Any ideas?”
A395: As with so many things these
days, you look for the “blue book” to tell
you what something is worth. It has been
done for years with automobiles.
I found an advertisement in the classified
section of a popular hobby magazine that
mentioned Anderson’s Blue Book. I looked
it up and found that it is published by Frank
Anderson, who lives in Canada.
He claims that this book is the latest
collector and online auction pricing guide
for collectible model airplane engines, be
they ignition, diesel, or glow. It contains 240
pages, lists more than 1,500 engines (in the
1911-2005 time frame), and has 900 photos.
The Web site also mentions a 1/2A
engine book. A fifth edition of Anderson’s
Blue Book is due out in April 2009, which
is soon approaching.
Q396: “I recently came upon a really
simplified brochure offered by Horizon
Hobby, titled, ‘Learn to Fly—The World
of Radio Control.’ Although basic in
content, it is a good starting point. You
might want to tell your readers about this
pamphlet.”
A396: This isn’t a question-and-answer,
but I want to make it clear that I want to
hear from our members and will pass on
any information that can help our hobby
continue to grow.
I obtained several copies of this
brochure, published by Horizon Hobby. It
is identified as the “Intro to RC
Brochure,” with a catalog identification
code of HHDCN2RC.
The full-color publication has 15 pages
and starts with, “The World of Radio
Control Flight is Waiting for You.”
Another section is under the heading,
“Where RC Flight Can Take You.”
It is basic in nature and does naturally
tie in with Horizon’s RC product line. But
it still makes for a good handout for hobby
shops and RC model clubs. I was also
pleased to see the nice plug for the AMA
in the brochure. Copies are available from
Horizon Hobby. MA
Sources:
“Shop AMA”
(800) 435-9262, extension 501 or 504
www.modelaircraft.org
RC Micro World
www.cloud9rc.com
Anderson’s Blue Book
(705) 436-1970
www.andersonsbluebook.com
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/04
Page Numbers: 95,96,97,98
Removing iron-on covering
April 2009 95
? Frequently Asked Questions Bob Aberle | [email protected]
Also included in this column:
• Jedelsky wing suggestion
• Model engine blue book
• Horizon Hobby’s “Learn to Fly”
brochure
The top view of the Jedelsky all-balsa wing
has no curvature. Triangular in shape, this
structure type is typically open on the
bottom and does not need to be covered.
Bob used a Jedelsky wing airfoil in this small, 100-square-inch wing. There are only a few
wing ribs, and the structure is all balsa sheet. There are no open bays.
The balsa sheet had thin cyanoacrylate applied to it before the
UltraCote was applied. Thus the covering comes off in small
pieces, making the job tedious.
An X-Acto knife with No. 11 blade is used to peel
transparent UltraCote Lite iron-on covering from a
balsa sheet surface. It won’t always come off easily.
PLEASE WRITE IN with your questions;
that is the only way we can keep this
column format going. When referring to
published Q-and-As (for follow-ups),
provide the number as a reference.
References to addresses and Web sites
are now placed in a group, separate from
the text, at the end of this column under
“Sources.”
Q393: “How do you remove iron-on
covering, like MonoKote, that has been
applied to aircraft sheeting? A close friend
of mine asked me to help him strip the
insignia blue MonoKote iron-on covering
off of his F4U Corsair.
“I remember a technique using a plastic
bag, painting on paint thinner and then
putting the parts inside the bag. I would
guess you have to go over the area with pins
to sort of perforate the area so that the
thinner can penetrate through the covering.
In other words to allow the thinner or
solvent to get to the adhesive part of the
covering. Does this sound right to you?”
A393: The answer is: it’s not easy! Most
modelers are normally concerned with
getting the iron-on covering to stick to an
aircraft structure and remain in place. We
don’t even want to see blisters or the like
that require frequent reironing. But there
are times when a covering must be
removed, especially when aircraft repairs
are necessary.
I remove iron-on covering using an XActo
knife with a No. 11 blade. I get under
the covering and try to lift it off in as few
pieces as possible. I have never resorted to
thinners or solvents to do the job.
Removing covering is further
complicated if you use one of the surface
covering adhesives such as Balsarite. That
04sig3.QXD 2/24/09 2:07 PM Page 95
product’s job is to make the covering stick
better. Actually, anything applied to the
balsa, such as dope, paint, and cyanoacrylate
glue, will make it more difficult to remove
the covering.
I asked three hobby experts for their
advice: the late Scott Christensen, who was
vice president of research and development at
Sig Manufacturing; Thayer Syme, editor of
Fly RC magazine; and Faye Stilley, who
literally wrote the books about iron-on
covering. His latest, Covering R/C Airplanes:
Vol. 2, is available from the AMA Web site.
To find it, click on “Shop AMA” on the front
page.
Thayer Syme indicated that he uses a heat
gun, a very hot iron, and then paper towel to
lift the remaining adhesive. He usually ends
up doing some sanding as well. Thayer stated
that he was unfamiliar with the technique
involving the plastic bag and paint thinner that
the reader mentioned.
Scott Christensen said that he used the
plastic bag method and that it “ … didn’t
work worth a darn!” He went on to say:
“In all my years working with iron-on
plastic films I’ve decided that there is only
one way to remove the stuff. Start by peeling
away as much of the plastic covering as
possible. Use the sharp tip of an X-Acto blade
to ‘pick’ at the smaller pieces.
“Take your time and get every last piece
off the aircraft structure. In the case of
insignia blue (like on this Corsair), there will
be a great deal of color that is literally soaked
into the wood. What I have done with this
situation is to work with acetone, a rag, light
sandpaper and a bit of elbow grease. This
must be done in a well-ventilated area.
“The color on the adhesive side of the
MonoKote is basically ink. Acetone will
eventually break this ink/adhesive down to the
point that some of it can be rubbed off and
the more stubborn areas can be lightly
sanded.
“Of course, if you are re-covering in the
same color, this may not be a concern. The
trick is to get the wood structure entirely
smooth and sanded, ready for finishing.
There is no real ‘silver bullet’ for this job.
Just a little determination and a bit of
effort.”
Faye Stilley wrapped up this discussion
by saying:
“If the original covering wasn’t welded
to the wood with too much heat, it should
peel off fairly easily. However, it will stick
like crazy to any area where adhesive was
left on the surface, like thin CA wicking
through the balsa sheeting.
“On the other hand, if it was ironed
down with too much heat, like most guys
do, it will have to be sanded off. That is a
tedious job at best, because you do not
want to cut into the balsa to any degree.
“I don’t know of any chemical that will
release the heat-sensitive adhesive without
damaging the wood or at least softening
the cement that was used to assemble the
structure in the first place. Sorry I don’t
have a magic answer. Sandpaper will do
the trick, but it is not a fun job.”
I thank these experts for sharing some
thoughts on this subject.
It seems that peeling the covering off
with a knife blade or sanding it off are the
best ways to remove iron-on covering.
Applying chemicals runs the risk of
damaging the model’s structure or softening
the cement used to assemble the aircraft.
Q394: “I’ve noticed over the past couple of
years that you went to the Jedelsky open
structure wing airfoil on many of your
smaller size aircraft designs. Do these airfoils
really work? Are there any options to using
this type structure?”
A394: The Jedelsky wing section is an allbalsa
structure that has a triangular airfoil
rather than a gradual curvature. It is fast to
build, since the ribs are all straight (not
curved); therefore, it is easy to cut out. The
resulting wing structure is strong and
lightweight, no covering is actually required,
and the aircraft seems to fly well with it.
I admit that the airplanes using this type
of airfoil tend to look strange. For a
modeler who doesn’t care to cut out a lot
of wing ribs with all the notches for the
spars and such, the Jedelsky can offer
some time-saving advantages.
But, yes, there is an alternative. I
designed a little 100-square-inch, 4-
ounce aircraft that I call the “Turn-
Around” (which was featured in the
January 2009 RC Micro World Online
Magazine. The source list has the Web
address.). I didn’t want to paint it to save
weight, so I decided to use lightweight
iron-on covering.
After covering the top of the wing, I
thought, Why not cover the bottom as
well? On a Jedelsky wing, the bottom
would normally be left open. I applied
the covering, which you will see in the
photos. It definitely makes for a neater
appearance.
The other advantage is that the
covered wing is much easier to clean.
This would be especially true when
flying a fueled model. Cleaning off the
fuel residue with an uncovered wing
bottom isn’t fun.
Q395: “I have a bunch of old model
airplane engines and would like to ‘cash
them in’ so that I might purchase some
more modern engines and also some RC
equipment. My problem is knowing the
true value of these engines before I offer
them for sale. Any ideas?”
A395: As with so many things these
days, you look for the “blue book” to tell
you what something is worth. It has been
done for years with automobiles.
I found an advertisement in the classified
section of a popular hobby magazine that
mentioned Anderson’s Blue Book. I looked
it up and found that it is published by Frank
Anderson, who lives in Canada.
He claims that this book is the latest
collector and online auction pricing guide
for collectible model airplane engines, be
they ignition, diesel, or glow. It contains 240
pages, lists more than 1,500 engines (in the
1911-2005 time frame), and has 900 photos.
The Web site also mentions a 1/2A
engine book. A fifth edition of Anderson’s
Blue Book is due out in April 2009, which
is soon approaching.
Q396: “I recently came upon a really
simplified brochure offered by Horizon
Hobby, titled, ‘Learn to Fly—The World
of Radio Control.’ Although basic in
content, it is a good starting point. You
might want to tell your readers about this
pamphlet.”
A396: This isn’t a question-and-answer,
but I want to make it clear that I want to
hear from our members and will pass on
any information that can help our hobby
continue to grow.
I obtained several copies of this
brochure, published by Horizon Hobby. It
is identified as the “Intro to RC
Brochure,” with a catalog identification
code of HHDCN2RC.
The full-color publication has 15 pages
and starts with, “The World of Radio
Control Flight is Waiting for You.”
Another section is under the heading,
“Where RC Flight Can Take You.”
It is basic in nature and does naturally
tie in with Horizon’s RC product line. But
it still makes for a good handout for hobby
shops and RC model clubs. I was also
pleased to see the nice plug for the AMA
in the brochure. Copies are available from
Horizon Hobby. MA
Sources:
“Shop AMA”
(800) 435-9262, extension 501 or 504
www.modelaircraft.org
RC Micro World
www.cloud9rc.com
Anderson’s Blue Book
(705) 436-1970
www.andersonsbluebook.com
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/04
Page Numbers: 95,96,97,98
Removing iron-on covering
April 2009 95
? Frequently Asked Questions Bob Aberle | [email protected]
Also included in this column:
• Jedelsky wing suggestion
• Model engine blue book
• Horizon Hobby’s “Learn to Fly”
brochure
The top view of the Jedelsky all-balsa wing
has no curvature. Triangular in shape, this
structure type is typically open on the
bottom and does not need to be covered.
Bob used a Jedelsky wing airfoil in this small, 100-square-inch wing. There are only a few
wing ribs, and the structure is all balsa sheet. There are no open bays.
The balsa sheet had thin cyanoacrylate applied to it before the
UltraCote was applied. Thus the covering comes off in small
pieces, making the job tedious.
An X-Acto knife with No. 11 blade is used to peel
transparent UltraCote Lite iron-on covering from a
balsa sheet surface. It won’t always come off easily.
PLEASE WRITE IN with your questions;
that is the only way we can keep this
column format going. When referring to
published Q-and-As (for follow-ups),
provide the number as a reference.
References to addresses and Web sites
are now placed in a group, separate from
the text, at the end of this column under
“Sources.”
Q393: “How do you remove iron-on
covering, like MonoKote, that has been
applied to aircraft sheeting? A close friend
of mine asked me to help him strip the
insignia blue MonoKote iron-on covering
off of his F4U Corsair.
“I remember a technique using a plastic
bag, painting on paint thinner and then
putting the parts inside the bag. I would
guess you have to go over the area with pins
to sort of perforate the area so that the
thinner can penetrate through the covering.
In other words to allow the thinner or
solvent to get to the adhesive part of the
covering. Does this sound right to you?”
A393: The answer is: it’s not easy! Most
modelers are normally concerned with
getting the iron-on covering to stick to an
aircraft structure and remain in place. We
don’t even want to see blisters or the like
that require frequent reironing. But there
are times when a covering must be
removed, especially when aircraft repairs
are necessary.
I remove iron-on covering using an XActo
knife with a No. 11 blade. I get under
the covering and try to lift it off in as few
pieces as possible. I have never resorted to
thinners or solvents to do the job.
Removing covering is further
complicated if you use one of the surface
covering adhesives such as Balsarite. That
04sig3.QXD 2/24/09 2:07 PM Page 95
product’s job is to make the covering stick
better. Actually, anything applied to the
balsa, such as dope, paint, and cyanoacrylate
glue, will make it more difficult to remove
the covering.
I asked three hobby experts for their
advice: the late Scott Christensen, who was
vice president of research and development at
Sig Manufacturing; Thayer Syme, editor of
Fly RC magazine; and Faye Stilley, who
literally wrote the books about iron-on
covering. His latest, Covering R/C Airplanes:
Vol. 2, is available from the AMA Web site.
To find it, click on “Shop AMA” on the front
page.
Thayer Syme indicated that he uses a heat
gun, a very hot iron, and then paper towel to
lift the remaining adhesive. He usually ends
up doing some sanding as well. Thayer stated
that he was unfamiliar with the technique
involving the plastic bag and paint thinner that
the reader mentioned.
Scott Christensen said that he used the
plastic bag method and that it “ … didn’t
work worth a darn!” He went on to say:
“In all my years working with iron-on
plastic films I’ve decided that there is only
one way to remove the stuff. Start by peeling
away as much of the plastic covering as
possible. Use the sharp tip of an X-Acto blade
to ‘pick’ at the smaller pieces.
“Take your time and get every last piece
off the aircraft structure. In the case of
insignia blue (like on this Corsair), there will
be a great deal of color that is literally soaked
into the wood. What I have done with this
situation is to work with acetone, a rag, light
sandpaper and a bit of elbow grease. This
must be done in a well-ventilated area.
“The color on the adhesive side of the
MonoKote is basically ink. Acetone will
eventually break this ink/adhesive down to the
point that some of it can be rubbed off and
the more stubborn areas can be lightly
sanded.
“Of course, if you are re-covering in the
same color, this may not be a concern. The
trick is to get the wood structure entirely
smooth and sanded, ready for finishing.
There is no real ‘silver bullet’ for this job.
Just a little determination and a bit of
effort.”
Faye Stilley wrapped up this discussion
by saying:
“If the original covering wasn’t welded
to the wood with too much heat, it should
peel off fairly easily. However, it will stick
like crazy to any area where adhesive was
left on the surface, like thin CA wicking
through the balsa sheeting.
“On the other hand, if it was ironed
down with too much heat, like most guys
do, it will have to be sanded off. That is a
tedious job at best, because you do not
want to cut into the balsa to any degree.
“I don’t know of any chemical that will
release the heat-sensitive adhesive without
damaging the wood or at least softening
the cement that was used to assemble the
structure in the first place. Sorry I don’t
have a magic answer. Sandpaper will do
the trick, but it is not a fun job.”
I thank these experts for sharing some
thoughts on this subject.
It seems that peeling the covering off
with a knife blade or sanding it off are the
best ways to remove iron-on covering.
Applying chemicals runs the risk of
damaging the model’s structure or softening
the cement used to assemble the aircraft.
Q394: “I’ve noticed over the past couple of
years that you went to the Jedelsky open
structure wing airfoil on many of your
smaller size aircraft designs. Do these airfoils
really work? Are there any options to using
this type structure?”
A394: The Jedelsky wing section is an allbalsa
structure that has a triangular airfoil
rather than a gradual curvature. It is fast to
build, since the ribs are all straight (not
curved); therefore, it is easy to cut out. The
resulting wing structure is strong and
lightweight, no covering is actually required,
and the aircraft seems to fly well with it.
I admit that the airplanes using this type
of airfoil tend to look strange. For a
modeler who doesn’t care to cut out a lot
of wing ribs with all the notches for the
spars and such, the Jedelsky can offer
some time-saving advantages.
But, yes, there is an alternative. I
designed a little 100-square-inch, 4-
ounce aircraft that I call the “Turn-
Around” (which was featured in the
January 2009 RC Micro World Online
Magazine. The source list has the Web
address.). I didn’t want to paint it to save
weight, so I decided to use lightweight
iron-on covering.
After covering the top of the wing, I
thought, Why not cover the bottom as
well? On a Jedelsky wing, the bottom
would normally be left open. I applied
the covering, which you will see in the
photos. It definitely makes for a neater
appearance.
The other advantage is that the
covered wing is much easier to clean.
This would be especially true when
flying a fueled model. Cleaning off the
fuel residue with an uncovered wing
bottom isn’t fun.
Q395: “I have a bunch of old model
airplane engines and would like to ‘cash
them in’ so that I might purchase some
more modern engines and also some RC
equipment. My problem is knowing the
true value of these engines before I offer
them for sale. Any ideas?”
A395: As with so many things these
days, you look for the “blue book” to tell
you what something is worth. It has been
done for years with automobiles.
I found an advertisement in the classified
section of a popular hobby magazine that
mentioned Anderson’s Blue Book. I looked
it up and found that it is published by Frank
Anderson, who lives in Canada.
He claims that this book is the latest
collector and online auction pricing guide
for collectible model airplane engines, be
they ignition, diesel, or glow. It contains 240
pages, lists more than 1,500 engines (in the
1911-2005 time frame), and has 900 photos.
The Web site also mentions a 1/2A
engine book. A fifth edition of Anderson’s
Blue Book is due out in April 2009, which
is soon approaching.
Q396: “I recently came upon a really
simplified brochure offered by Horizon
Hobby, titled, ‘Learn to Fly—The World
of Radio Control.’ Although basic in
content, it is a good starting point. You
might want to tell your readers about this
pamphlet.”
A396: This isn’t a question-and-answer,
but I want to make it clear that I want to
hear from our members and will pass on
any information that can help our hobby
continue to grow.
I obtained several copies of this
brochure, published by Horizon Hobby. It
is identified as the “Intro to RC
Brochure,” with a catalog identification
code of HHDCN2RC.
The full-color publication has 15 pages
and starts with, “The World of Radio
Control Flight is Waiting for You.”
Another section is under the heading,
“Where RC Flight Can Take You.”
It is basic in nature and does naturally
tie in with Horizon’s RC product line. But
it still makes for a good handout for hobby
shops and RC model clubs. I was also
pleased to see the nice plug for the AMA
in the brochure. Copies are available from
Horizon Hobby. MA
Sources:
“Shop AMA”
(800) 435-9262, extension 501 or 504
www.modelaircraft.org
RC Micro World
www.cloud9rc.com
Anderson’s Blue Book
(705) 436-1970
www.andersonsbluebook.com
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com