October 2010 85
AstroFlight meter for low-voltage applications
Bob Aberle | baberle@? Frequently Asked Questions optonline.net
Also included in this column:
• Electric-powered CL
• Iron-on covering sticking to
itself
• Tip for soldering Deans
Ultra connectors
•
•
Above: The AstroFlight Super Whattmeter can be
purchased with low-voltage capability that will allow for
reading down to almost zero volts. Low-voltage mode
operates with an ordinary four-cell RC receiver pack.
Right: Older versions of the Whattmeter can be
modified to read lower voltages. You can find this
diagram and the accompanying article on the E Zone.
Below: Del Ogren’s Yakety Yak micro electric-powered
CL model is intended for indoor flying. It spans only 10
inches and weighs 8.5 grams. The motor is from a
ParkZone Cessna.
PLEASE WRITE in with your questions; that is the only way we can
keep this column format going. When referring to published Qs and As
(for follow-ups), provide the number as a reference.
References to addresses and Web sites are placed in a group,
separate from the text, at the end of this column under “Sources.”
I am including a new “Tips” feature. These hints will be numbered
in the same sequence as the FAQs.
Q465: “I have owned an Astro Flight digital wattmeter for many years.
Recently I had the need to measure voltages less than 4.0 volts. My
meter can only work down to about a 3.7 volts minimum. So this rules
out any testing I might do with a single Li-Poly battery cell under load.
“I know Astro Flight now sells a series of these meters (Model 101)
that uses a plug-in 4-cell battery pack to allow reading down to almost
zero volts. But I also heard that someone published a simple
modification that would allow my older style meter to read low
voltage.
“Unfortunately I can’t find any reference to that scheme. Can you
help me out?”
10sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 8/20/10 12:55 PM Page 85
A465: I own the AstroFlight model 101N,
which is the Super Whattmeter. An additional
cable exits from this meter, into which you
plug a four-cell RC receiver-type battery pack.
By doing so, the unit will read down to
practically zero volts.
The meter modification you are referring
to was published on the E Zone portion of
RCGroups in July 2002. I have included the
Web site address for that article in the
“Sources” section of this column. If you have
trouble accessing the site, please drop me an
e-mail; I may be able to help.
Chuck Haverlah of Thousand Oaks,
California, developed the original scheme.
Gordon Johnson, who is a noted micro/indoor
specialist, wrote the E Zone article. I’ve
included a wiring diagram of the
modification.
The interesting part is that Chuck
employed a 9-volt battery rather than a fourcell
Ni-Cd or NiMH pack. That type of
battery must be charged before using.
With the 9-volt, the meter is always
available to take readings. When the battery
finally runs down, you merely swap in a new
one.
Q466: “I know over the past couple of years
you have made mention several times to
electric powered control line models. I’m sure
even more progress has now been made in
this field. Can you direct me to some
reference sources where I might pursue this
type model aircraft further?”
A466: Electric-powered CL models have
been steadily on the rise in the past few years.
The lack of motor noise makes it perfect for
flying sites located in the inner city.
At least four years ago, I answered a
frequently asked question about the CL
Aerobatics (Stunt) championship efforts of
MA Editor Emeritus Bob Hunt. He has been
pursuing this form of CL flying ever since
and has accumulated a lot of experience.
I have directed several readers to Bob, and
they have been thrilled with the information
he gave them. He concentrates on what I call
“full size” or “traditional size” CL aircraft for
outdoor flying and specifically competition.
I’ve included Bob’s contact information in
the “Sources” section. But please take his
time only if you are serious about this type of
flying.
Another interesting electric CL category is
indoor flying. Bob Wilder of Colleyville,
Texas, has been the champion of this effort
for the past couple of years, and now he
operates a business that sells various models
and accessory equipment related to electric
CL. My original comments about this were in
question and answer 336, published in the
March 2008 MA.
Bob’s airplanes weigh 6-12 ounces.
Indoor CL has proved to be an interesting
concept because, by nature, the wires prevent
the aircraft from colliding with obstructions
such as walls, ceilings, basketball hoops, etc.
I’ve listed Bob’s phone number in the
“Sources” section. This is the way he prefers
to be contacted.
Another indoor electric CL category has
recently emerged. Del Ogren, a noted indoor
flying enthusiast, has come up with a microsize
electric-powered CL model. The Yakety
Yak has only a 10-inch wingspan, with an allup
weight of 8.5 grams (not ounces!).
Del is using the motor from a ParkZone
Cessna, a Nick Leichty ESC/timer, and a
single (tiny) Li-Poly battery cell. This type of
airplane opens up an entirely new arena of
indoor possibilities.
Del has published an account of this model
on RCGroups. I’ve listed his e-mail address in
the “Sources” section, for those who want to
pursue this subject with him.
I’ve given you some information that
should enable you to research this subject
much further. If you do get involved in
electric-powered CL, I would like to hear from
you.
Q467: “I have found an annoying tendency on
many of the lightweight iron-on coverings
where the material sticks to itself, as soon as
the protective backing is removed. It’s almost
like a magnet the way it attracts itself. In many
case I’m unable to straighten the material out
and it ends up in the garbage.
“Have you ever experienced this? If so do
you have any suggestions?”
A467: Yes, I’ve certainly had this kind of
experience, and at times it has driven me
crazy. I have found that it doesn’t happen to all
brands of covering, but it definitely occurs
more with lightweight material. To be kind, I
won’t mention brand names.
The solution to this problem came from my
old friend, Frank Korman, who is a member of
the Dallas Electric Aircraft Fliers club in
Texas. The trick is to use common talcum
powder, baby powder, or even cornstarch.
Measure the size of covering to go on a
portion of your aircraft. Carefully remove the
clear protective backing, leaving the adhesive
part facing up. I attached the four corners of
the covering to my workbench using low-tack
painter’s blue masking tape.
Sprinkle a light coating of the powder onto
the covering material; don’t use a lot. I use
folded paper towels to spread the powder so
that it covers the entire surface of the covering.
Then I use a clean piece of paper towel to wipe
off all the powder. If you take your time, all of
the powder you can see will be removed.
I haven’t tried this, but a tack cloth might
help at this point. Getting all the powder off of
the covering is more important when you are
working with transparent material. It is far less
important when using opaque covering.
Once the powder is removed, you will
notice that the covering no longer sticks to
itself before heat is applied. This will give you
an opportunity to smooth the covering onto
your aircraft structure without its sticking to
itself.
The powder will do nothing to the
88 MODEL AVIATION
covering adhesion. Apply heat from the usual
hobby iron, and the material will stick and
shrink as normal.
Give this technique a try. I think you will
be pleased with the results.
T468: Years ago I described a holding fixture
for Anderson Powerpole (aka Sermos)
connector pins that would allow a modeler to
have his or her hands free during the
soldering process. Jon Putnam of Portland,
Oregon, recently sent in photos of his
variation of this device, intended for use with
the popular Deans Ultra connectors.
The fixture consists of several pieces of
wood, a clothespin, a dowel, and a rubber
band. Attach any component, or even a wire,
to a holding block with a single rubber band.
On a second block, cement a clamp-type
clothespin. That pin will hold the Ultra
connector half tightly.
Move the wire into position on the
connector pin by shifting the position of the
component or wire held by the rubber band.
Once in position, both hands are then free to
hold the solder and soldering iron.
The Ultra connector can be rotated so that
the pin being soldered is always facing up.
That way, the solder will not run off. This is a
simple idea, yet it can save a lot of time and
will allow you to do the correct soldering job.
Jon went on to show a related idea
concerning the attachment of wires to the
Ultra connector. He likes to slip heat-shrink
tubing over each of the two pins. This is a
good idea, because it provides strain relief for
the wire-to-pin joint.
Jon found that the piece of heat-shrink
tubing tends to slide away from the connector
body as heat is applied. At that point, the
connector is too hot to touch. So he places a
clamp-type clothespin on the wire that
prevents the tubing from moving. That’s
another simple yet effective fix to what might
normally be a problem.
Thank you for these two ideas, Jon. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/10
Page Numbers: 85,86,88
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/10
Page Numbers: 85,86,88
October 2010 85
AstroFlight meter for low-voltage applications
Bob Aberle | baberle@? Frequently Asked Questions optonline.net
Also included in this column:
• Electric-powered CL
• Iron-on covering sticking to
itself
• Tip for soldering Deans
Ultra connectors
•
•
Above: The AstroFlight Super Whattmeter can be
purchased with low-voltage capability that will allow for
reading down to almost zero volts. Low-voltage mode
operates with an ordinary four-cell RC receiver pack.
Right: Older versions of the Whattmeter can be
modified to read lower voltages. You can find this
diagram and the accompanying article on the E Zone.
Below: Del Ogren’s Yakety Yak micro electric-powered
CL model is intended for indoor flying. It spans only 10
inches and weighs 8.5 grams. The motor is from a
ParkZone Cessna.
PLEASE WRITE in with your questions; that is the only way we can
keep this column format going. When referring to published Qs and As
(for follow-ups), provide the number as a reference.
References to addresses and Web sites are placed in a group,
separate from the text, at the end of this column under “Sources.”
I am including a new “Tips” feature. These hints will be numbered
in the same sequence as the FAQs.
Q465: “I have owned an Astro Flight digital wattmeter for many years.
Recently I had the need to measure voltages less than 4.0 volts. My
meter can only work down to about a 3.7 volts minimum. So this rules
out any testing I might do with a single Li-Poly battery cell under load.
“I know Astro Flight now sells a series of these meters (Model 101)
that uses a plug-in 4-cell battery pack to allow reading down to almost
zero volts. But I also heard that someone published a simple
modification that would allow my older style meter to read low
voltage.
“Unfortunately I can’t find any reference to that scheme. Can you
help me out?”
10sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 8/20/10 12:55 PM Page 85
A465: I own the AstroFlight model 101N,
which is the Super Whattmeter. An additional
cable exits from this meter, into which you
plug a four-cell RC receiver-type battery pack.
By doing so, the unit will read down to
practically zero volts.
The meter modification you are referring
to was published on the E Zone portion of
RCGroups in July 2002. I have included the
Web site address for that article in the
“Sources” section of this column. If you have
trouble accessing the site, please drop me an
e-mail; I may be able to help.
Chuck Haverlah of Thousand Oaks,
California, developed the original scheme.
Gordon Johnson, who is a noted micro/indoor
specialist, wrote the E Zone article. I’ve
included a wiring diagram of the
modification.
The interesting part is that Chuck
employed a 9-volt battery rather than a fourcell
Ni-Cd or NiMH pack. That type of
battery must be charged before using.
With the 9-volt, the meter is always
available to take readings. When the battery
finally runs down, you merely swap in a new
one.
Q466: “I know over the past couple of years
you have made mention several times to
electric powered control line models. I’m sure
even more progress has now been made in
this field. Can you direct me to some
reference sources where I might pursue this
type model aircraft further?”
A466: Electric-powered CL models have
been steadily on the rise in the past few years.
The lack of motor noise makes it perfect for
flying sites located in the inner city.
At least four years ago, I answered a
frequently asked question about the CL
Aerobatics (Stunt) championship efforts of
MA Editor Emeritus Bob Hunt. He has been
pursuing this form of CL flying ever since
and has accumulated a lot of experience.
I have directed several readers to Bob, and
they have been thrilled with the information
he gave them. He concentrates on what I call
“full size” or “traditional size” CL aircraft for
outdoor flying and specifically competition.
I’ve included Bob’s contact information in
the “Sources” section. But please take his
time only if you are serious about this type of
flying.
Another interesting electric CL category is
indoor flying. Bob Wilder of Colleyville,
Texas, has been the champion of this effort
for the past couple of years, and now he
operates a business that sells various models
and accessory equipment related to electric
CL. My original comments about this were in
question and answer 336, published in the
March 2008 MA.
Bob’s airplanes weigh 6-12 ounces.
Indoor CL has proved to be an interesting
concept because, by nature, the wires prevent
the aircraft from colliding with obstructions
such as walls, ceilings, basketball hoops, etc.
I’ve listed Bob’s phone number in the
“Sources” section. This is the way he prefers
to be contacted.
Another indoor electric CL category has
recently emerged. Del Ogren, a noted indoor
flying enthusiast, has come up with a microsize
electric-powered CL model. The Yakety
Yak has only a 10-inch wingspan, with an allup
weight of 8.5 grams (not ounces!).
Del is using the motor from a ParkZone
Cessna, a Nick Leichty ESC/timer, and a
single (tiny) Li-Poly battery cell. This type of
airplane opens up an entirely new arena of
indoor possibilities.
Del has published an account of this model
on RCGroups. I’ve listed his e-mail address in
the “Sources” section, for those who want to
pursue this subject with him.
I’ve given you some information that
should enable you to research this subject
much further. If you do get involved in
electric-powered CL, I would like to hear from
you.
Q467: “I have found an annoying tendency on
many of the lightweight iron-on coverings
where the material sticks to itself, as soon as
the protective backing is removed. It’s almost
like a magnet the way it attracts itself. In many
case I’m unable to straighten the material out
and it ends up in the garbage.
“Have you ever experienced this? If so do
you have any suggestions?”
A467: Yes, I’ve certainly had this kind of
experience, and at times it has driven me
crazy. I have found that it doesn’t happen to all
brands of covering, but it definitely occurs
more with lightweight material. To be kind, I
won’t mention brand names.
The solution to this problem came from my
old friend, Frank Korman, who is a member of
the Dallas Electric Aircraft Fliers club in
Texas. The trick is to use common talcum
powder, baby powder, or even cornstarch.
Measure the size of covering to go on a
portion of your aircraft. Carefully remove the
clear protective backing, leaving the adhesive
part facing up. I attached the four corners of
the covering to my workbench using low-tack
painter’s blue masking tape.
Sprinkle a light coating of the powder onto
the covering material; don’t use a lot. I use
folded paper towels to spread the powder so
that it covers the entire surface of the covering.
Then I use a clean piece of paper towel to wipe
off all the powder. If you take your time, all of
the powder you can see will be removed.
I haven’t tried this, but a tack cloth might
help at this point. Getting all the powder off of
the covering is more important when you are
working with transparent material. It is far less
important when using opaque covering.
Once the powder is removed, you will
notice that the covering no longer sticks to
itself before heat is applied. This will give you
an opportunity to smooth the covering onto
your aircraft structure without its sticking to
itself.
The powder will do nothing to the
88 MODEL AVIATION
covering adhesion. Apply heat from the usual
hobby iron, and the material will stick and
shrink as normal.
Give this technique a try. I think you will
be pleased with the results.
T468: Years ago I described a holding fixture
for Anderson Powerpole (aka Sermos)
connector pins that would allow a modeler to
have his or her hands free during the
soldering process. Jon Putnam of Portland,
Oregon, recently sent in photos of his
variation of this device, intended for use with
the popular Deans Ultra connectors.
The fixture consists of several pieces of
wood, a clothespin, a dowel, and a rubber
band. Attach any component, or even a wire,
to a holding block with a single rubber band.
On a second block, cement a clamp-type
clothespin. That pin will hold the Ultra
connector half tightly.
Move the wire into position on the
connector pin by shifting the position of the
component or wire held by the rubber band.
Once in position, both hands are then free to
hold the solder and soldering iron.
The Ultra connector can be rotated so that
the pin being soldered is always facing up.
That way, the solder will not run off. This is a
simple idea, yet it can save a lot of time and
will allow you to do the correct soldering job.
Jon went on to show a related idea
concerning the attachment of wires to the
Ultra connector. He likes to slip heat-shrink
tubing over each of the two pins. This is a
good idea, because it provides strain relief for
the wire-to-pin joint.
Jon found that the piece of heat-shrink
tubing tends to slide away from the connector
body as heat is applied. At that point, the
connector is too hot to touch. So he places a
clamp-type clothespin on the wire that
prevents the tubing from moving. That’s
another simple yet effective fix to what might
normally be a problem.
Thank you for these two ideas, Jon. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/10
Page Numbers: 85,86,88
October 2010 85
AstroFlight meter for low-voltage applications
Bob Aberle | baberle@? Frequently Asked Questions optonline.net
Also included in this column:
• Electric-powered CL
• Iron-on covering sticking to
itself
• Tip for soldering Deans
Ultra connectors
•
•
Above: The AstroFlight Super Whattmeter can be
purchased with low-voltage capability that will allow for
reading down to almost zero volts. Low-voltage mode
operates with an ordinary four-cell RC receiver pack.
Right: Older versions of the Whattmeter can be
modified to read lower voltages. You can find this
diagram and the accompanying article on the E Zone.
Below: Del Ogren’s Yakety Yak micro electric-powered
CL model is intended for indoor flying. It spans only 10
inches and weighs 8.5 grams. The motor is from a
ParkZone Cessna.
PLEASE WRITE in with your questions; that is the only way we can
keep this column format going. When referring to published Qs and As
(for follow-ups), provide the number as a reference.
References to addresses and Web sites are placed in a group,
separate from the text, at the end of this column under “Sources.”
I am including a new “Tips” feature. These hints will be numbered
in the same sequence as the FAQs.
Q465: “I have owned an Astro Flight digital wattmeter for many years.
Recently I had the need to measure voltages less than 4.0 volts. My
meter can only work down to about a 3.7 volts minimum. So this rules
out any testing I might do with a single Li-Poly battery cell under load.
“I know Astro Flight now sells a series of these meters (Model 101)
that uses a plug-in 4-cell battery pack to allow reading down to almost
zero volts. But I also heard that someone published a simple
modification that would allow my older style meter to read low
voltage.
“Unfortunately I can’t find any reference to that scheme. Can you
help me out?”
10sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 8/20/10 12:55 PM Page 85
A465: I own the AstroFlight model 101N,
which is the Super Whattmeter. An additional
cable exits from this meter, into which you
plug a four-cell RC receiver-type battery pack.
By doing so, the unit will read down to
practically zero volts.
The meter modification you are referring
to was published on the E Zone portion of
RCGroups in July 2002. I have included the
Web site address for that article in the
“Sources” section of this column. If you have
trouble accessing the site, please drop me an
e-mail; I may be able to help.
Chuck Haverlah of Thousand Oaks,
California, developed the original scheme.
Gordon Johnson, who is a noted micro/indoor
specialist, wrote the E Zone article. I’ve
included a wiring diagram of the
modification.
The interesting part is that Chuck
employed a 9-volt battery rather than a fourcell
Ni-Cd or NiMH pack. That type of
battery must be charged before using.
With the 9-volt, the meter is always
available to take readings. When the battery
finally runs down, you merely swap in a new
one.
Q466: “I know over the past couple of years
you have made mention several times to
electric powered control line models. I’m sure
even more progress has now been made in
this field. Can you direct me to some
reference sources where I might pursue this
type model aircraft further?”
A466: Electric-powered CL models have
been steadily on the rise in the past few years.
The lack of motor noise makes it perfect for
flying sites located in the inner city.
At least four years ago, I answered a
frequently asked question about the CL
Aerobatics (Stunt) championship efforts of
MA Editor Emeritus Bob Hunt. He has been
pursuing this form of CL flying ever since
and has accumulated a lot of experience.
I have directed several readers to Bob, and
they have been thrilled with the information
he gave them. He concentrates on what I call
“full size” or “traditional size” CL aircraft for
outdoor flying and specifically competition.
I’ve included Bob’s contact information in
the “Sources” section. But please take his
time only if you are serious about this type of
flying.
Another interesting electric CL category is
indoor flying. Bob Wilder of Colleyville,
Texas, has been the champion of this effort
for the past couple of years, and now he
operates a business that sells various models
and accessory equipment related to electric
CL. My original comments about this were in
question and answer 336, published in the
March 2008 MA.
Bob’s airplanes weigh 6-12 ounces.
Indoor CL has proved to be an interesting
concept because, by nature, the wires prevent
the aircraft from colliding with obstructions
such as walls, ceilings, basketball hoops, etc.
I’ve listed Bob’s phone number in the
“Sources” section. This is the way he prefers
to be contacted.
Another indoor electric CL category has
recently emerged. Del Ogren, a noted indoor
flying enthusiast, has come up with a microsize
electric-powered CL model. The Yakety
Yak has only a 10-inch wingspan, with an allup
weight of 8.5 grams (not ounces!).
Del is using the motor from a ParkZone
Cessna, a Nick Leichty ESC/timer, and a
single (tiny) Li-Poly battery cell. This type of
airplane opens up an entirely new arena of
indoor possibilities.
Del has published an account of this model
on RCGroups. I’ve listed his e-mail address in
the “Sources” section, for those who want to
pursue this subject with him.
I’ve given you some information that
should enable you to research this subject
much further. If you do get involved in
electric-powered CL, I would like to hear from
you.
Q467: “I have found an annoying tendency on
many of the lightweight iron-on coverings
where the material sticks to itself, as soon as
the protective backing is removed. It’s almost
like a magnet the way it attracts itself. In many
case I’m unable to straighten the material out
and it ends up in the garbage.
“Have you ever experienced this? If so do
you have any suggestions?”
A467: Yes, I’ve certainly had this kind of
experience, and at times it has driven me
crazy. I have found that it doesn’t happen to all
brands of covering, but it definitely occurs
more with lightweight material. To be kind, I
won’t mention brand names.
The solution to this problem came from my
old friend, Frank Korman, who is a member of
the Dallas Electric Aircraft Fliers club in
Texas. The trick is to use common talcum
powder, baby powder, or even cornstarch.
Measure the size of covering to go on a
portion of your aircraft. Carefully remove the
clear protective backing, leaving the adhesive
part facing up. I attached the four corners of
the covering to my workbench using low-tack
painter’s blue masking tape.
Sprinkle a light coating of the powder onto
the covering material; don’t use a lot. I use
folded paper towels to spread the powder so
that it covers the entire surface of the covering.
Then I use a clean piece of paper towel to wipe
off all the powder. If you take your time, all of
the powder you can see will be removed.
I haven’t tried this, but a tack cloth might
help at this point. Getting all the powder off of
the covering is more important when you are
working with transparent material. It is far less
important when using opaque covering.
Once the powder is removed, you will
notice that the covering no longer sticks to
itself before heat is applied. This will give you
an opportunity to smooth the covering onto
your aircraft structure without its sticking to
itself.
The powder will do nothing to the
88 MODEL AVIATION
covering adhesion. Apply heat from the usual
hobby iron, and the material will stick and
shrink as normal.
Give this technique a try. I think you will
be pleased with the results.
T468: Years ago I described a holding fixture
for Anderson Powerpole (aka Sermos)
connector pins that would allow a modeler to
have his or her hands free during the
soldering process. Jon Putnam of Portland,
Oregon, recently sent in photos of his
variation of this device, intended for use with
the popular Deans Ultra connectors.
The fixture consists of several pieces of
wood, a clothespin, a dowel, and a rubber
band. Attach any component, or even a wire,
to a holding block with a single rubber band.
On a second block, cement a clamp-type
clothespin. That pin will hold the Ultra
connector half tightly.
Move the wire into position on the
connector pin by shifting the position of the
component or wire held by the rubber band.
Once in position, both hands are then free to
hold the solder and soldering iron.
The Ultra connector can be rotated so that
the pin being soldered is always facing up.
That way, the solder will not run off. This is a
simple idea, yet it can save a lot of time and
will allow you to do the correct soldering job.
Jon went on to show a related idea
concerning the attachment of wires to the
Ultra connector. He likes to slip heat-shrink
tubing over each of the two pins. This is a
good idea, because it provides strain relief for
the wire-to-pin joint.
Jon found that the piece of heat-shrink
tubing tends to slide away from the connector
body as heat is applied. At that point, the
connector is too hot to touch. So he places a
clamp-type clothespin on the wire that
prevents the tubing from moving. That’s
another simple yet effective fix to what might
normally be a problem.
Thank you for these two ideas, Jon. MA