THE MAN: The first time I met Mike
McConville was at an RC Aerobatics
(Pattern) contest, in the late 1980s, at the
Plainfield, Indiana, flying site—at a home for
wayward boys. His name was well known
then, and I recall thinking what a great
weekend this would be: my first Pattern
contest and getting to watch Mike
McConville fly.
I wasn’t disappointed. For good reason, I
felt as if I were in the presence of a “rock
star.”
Mike won his first US Pattern Nats in
1981, when he was only 16 years old, and
since then he has dominated at nearly every
level of competition. He is an eight-time
Tournament of Champions competitor and
two-time finalist, an International Miniature
Aerobatic Club (IMAC) US Nationals
champion, a six-time US F3A (FAI Pattern)
Team Trials competitor, a Giant Scale Pylon
Racing World Champion, and a winner of
more than 200 Pattern and IMAC events.
Although Mike has competed primarily in
Aerobatics and Racing, he has a love for all
aspects of model aviation and enjoys flying
all types of models, both fixed wing and
helicopters. A Cincinnati, Ohio, native with
more than 20 years of experience in the hobby
industry, Mike moved to Champaign, Illinois,
in 1996 to design and develop airplanes for
Horizon Hobby.
He has designed more than 60 aircraft,
including Horizon’s latest release of the
Sukhoi: the SU-26MM SE (Mike
McConville Special Edition), also now
available in a 170cc size. Mike
continues to design outstanding models
that many pilots look forward to flying and
that remind me of that memorable Pattern
contest long ago.
The Build—Er, Assembly: The first thing
you have to do is maybe one of the
toughest: unpack the Sukhoi! It is
extremely well packaged, and it takes time
and space to neatly remove all of the
protective materials inside the boxes. My
airplane had zero damage from shipping,
so it’s obviously worth it to pack so
carefully.
Take a few moments to familiarize
yourself with the instructions and methods
of assembly you’re asked to do. The model
is built from laser-cut balsa and plywood
and then covered in UltraCote.
The landing gear, wing tube, and stabilizer
tube are painted aluminum, while the tail
wheel assembly is carbon. The fiberglass
cowl and wheel pants are nicely painted and
match the covering very well.
I chose to use everything Hangar 9
recommended, including the Spektrum DX8
radio and AR9100 receiver, Spektrum 2S
2000 mAh packs all around, and the pair of
Spektrum VR6007 Voltage Regulators. I also
installed the Evolution 80GX engine and
inverted smoke muffler, as illustrated in the
manual.
Finishing the front end required a quick
Specifications
Type: RC Aerobatic
Experience level: Advanced
Wingspan: 97 inches
Overall length: 91 inches
Wing area: 1,762 square inches:
Flying weight: 21.5-24.0 pounds
Engine: 58cc-85cc gas
Radio: Seven channels
Servos: Five high-torque digitals,
one standard
Propeller: 24 x 10-27 x 10
Spinner: 4¼ inches
Covering: UltraCote
+
• Extremely visible and attractive
• Wonderful attention to detail includes
terrific-looking pilot figure, dashboard
in the cockpit, and many cool
graphics.
• Well-written instructions
• Superb intro to gas and the “bigger is
better” concept
• Easy and honest to fly, and flies
great—capable of precision and
3-D flying to the extreme. -•
This is such a good-looking and -flying
model that some pilots probably love
to have it but would want to use their
own servos—or at least have the
option.
• The well-written instructions are
somewhat difficult to see because the
ink contrast to the paper is poor.
Pluses and Minuses
68 MODEL AVIATION
call to Desert Aircraft for a Mejzlik 27 x
10TH propeller and a 41/2-inch P-51-style
spinner—already cut for the propeller and
backplate-drilled! The 80GX uses the Desert
Aircraft DA-100 engine bolt pattern, so you
might already have gear for this power plant.
I wanted an excuse to replace my old gas
One of my favorite things about this
airplane is how easy it is to see. On takeoff
for the initial test flight, shown, it literally
flew by itself. Allow these bigger airplanes
to gain ground speed, and they climb out
smoothly. It’s also a must for the “cool
factor” to keep it on the ground a bit after
the tail comes off of the runway—and that
won’t take long!
trying to figure all that out!
As the instructions indicate, using a
thread-locking adhesive on all metal-to-metal
hardware that doesn’t come permanently
fitted or that uses self-locking hardware is a
must. The tank is installed, the hot setup for
the vent is already looped on top, and all
cutouts for switches are there waiting on you.
Your basic install is the radio (receiver!)
and engine. That’s it!
In addition to instructions for installing the
80GX were directions for installation the DA-
85, as well as accommodations for a canister
or tuned-pipe setup. There’s plenty of room in
the fuselage if you choose to go that way.
The suggested Pitts-style muffler that goes
with the Evolution power plant should be
perfect for most fliers. Although the hardware
is included and instructions are to use a servodriven
choke, I chose to make that simple and
manual. Even mounts for the 80GX ignition
are preinstalled for a soft-mount setup on the
side of the motor box where it belongs.
The cowl mounts with four bolts that fit
perfectly. In my experience, the things that
will take you some time with this project are
the unpacking and the cowl. As I mentioned,
the Sukhoi is extraordinarily well packaged
for shipping.
When you have the engine/muffler
mounted and it’s time to make clearance
accommodations in the cowl bottom, you
might want to remove a bunch of
the bottom of the cowl. Then it
won’t take long at all!
I spent an entire evening
doing this, to take off as
little as possible while
giving adequate
clearance. Without
Test Model Details
Engine used: Evolution 80GX
Propeller: Mejzlik 27 X 10TH
Radio System: Spektrum DX8,
Spektrum AR9100 9-channel
receiver, five Spektrum A6030
servos, one Spektrum A6000 servo,
three 2000 mAh Li-Poly batteries,
one 6-inch and two 12-inch servo
extensions
Flight duration: 12-15 minutes
Everything went as planned.
This wonderful model will
serve you well in precision
Aerobatics, 3-D, or having a
great time with a great-flying
aircraft!
can and figured this was it! I called Dean at
Jersey Modeler, and he hooked me up with
his great product that is extremely well
thought out and manufactured.
Dean makes it easy to have a completely
sealed fill/drain setup—no more gas fumes in
your vehicle or angering other club members
for killing the grass!
If you’ve ever considered getting a big
airplane but were concerned about the radio
installation/setup or plumbing for a gas
engine, I have great news for you. It’s all
done in the SU-26MM!
In fact, I would be hard-pressed to know
many local fliers, myself included, who
would do a better job of putting servos and
linkages in a large gas aircraft. Sure, the
finalists at the IMAC Nats might have
something a bit different, but this model is
equipped with exactly what you want.
Everywhere you look is professionally
installed Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links—what
I would have used. It’s the right stuff installed
the right way.
All flying surfaces are prehinged and
installed except the rudder. For that, all the
hinges are installed and you simply have to
attach it with the included steel pin. You
follow incredibly well-organized instruction
steps that are basically in a logical order.
I use both a stand on the bench and the
landing gear to handle the model during
assembly, so I did put the landing gear on
earlier than instructed.
One thing I really appreciate is that the
hardware that was not already permanently
installed arrived loosely installed where it
belonged. There was no searching
through a bag of hardware,
measuring, fitting, counting, and
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:47 PM Page 68
Gary Bussell (an AMA District VI associate vice
president), marks the highest/longest parts that will
project out on the template and tapes the template to
the fuselage. Then he cuts out the template where
necessary to lay reasonably flat on the cowl surface, cuts
the edges of the template on the marks shown, and
transfers the template dimensions to the cowl—all while
still taped to the fuselage!
The result of taking time with the cowl cutout. You
could make a huge rectangular opening—that would
be quicker—but this looks so cool! Thanks, Gary!
This is exactly what you’ll see when you open the box. Every servo lead is neatly
run and labeled to the receiver area. It doesn’t get any better than this for
making installing your radio a snap!
All the plumbing is taken care of for you—even the
latest vent extension across the top of the tank to
prevent engine sagging in transition during 3-D!
August 2011 69
modification, the cowl provides ample
exposure of the top of the engine for good
airflow where it’s needed most.
The radio installation gives you two
choices, which provide a location variation
for the CG. One is for precision aerobatics, or
more forward CG; the other is for 3-D, or a
more aft CG. I ended up using the precision
setup with a slight modification.
Directions are to mount the ignition pack
on top of the motor box and run the lead to
the ignition/charge switch. I didn’t want a Li-
Poly buried where I couldn’t remove it to
charge, so I used the space behind the
intended choke servo mount for the ignition
battery. Now I can take all three Li-Polys out
for charging.
I have never had a Li-Poly problem. If you
handle these batteries properly, and more
important, charge them properly, they seem to
be almost foolproof. However, I still like to
take them out of the model to charge.
The other small thing I did differently was
with the suggested throttle-servo setup. I’m
sure that some modelers can make the 90°
bend on 4-40 rod for a keeper while the wire
is in the fuselage, as directed, but the “fun
factor” quickly left when I tried—and tried
and tried. So I soldered on a quick link and
moved ahead.
It works great, because you wouldn’t have
adjustment on that end anyway with a keeper.
And it’s fun to solder!
Final assembly of the radio is so easy.
Every servo lead and extension is clearly
marked and ready for you to plug into your
receiver. The wiring and fuel line are neatly
wire-tied to the inside of the fuselage in a
professional manner.
The first time I powered up the radio, I
had to make a single adjustment to one
servo—and a slight one at that. Amazing
accuracy!
The Spektrum DX8 has been a jewel to
use. Michael Ramsey has completed a review
of that radio in the June issue, so be sure to
check out that article.
Next I did the usual confirmations of
control-throw direction, set the rates and
exponential, confirmed the CG, and I was
finished. If you’re new to gas engines or have
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:51 PM Page 69
lots of experience, you will be pleased with
the Evolution. It handles easily, draws fuel
well, and, as is any good engine, is
predictable.
The ignition works exactly as advertised
and has a great safety feature; it shuts down if
you don’t flip it for 90 seconds. Simply turn it
off and back on, and it’s ready to go again.
Give these power plants a great deal of
respect. Always ensure that the airplane is tied
down and that you have a friend hold for you.
Make sure the wings are mounted every
time you run the engine; they absorb an
amazing amount of vibration that the
fuselage won’t handle by itself.
Do run the power plant on the ground. I
suggest 15-20 minutes of low-speed
ground time with occasional throttle
increases and rpm variations. Include a
range check, as the manufacturer of your
radio suggests (with the engine on), and
you’re ready to fly!
The Evolution 80GX engine proved to be extremely easy to
handle. It draws fuel with the choke on. A couple of flips with the
ignition and choke on, and you’ll get a few “pops.” Open the
choke, set to idle, and it starts right up!
Static photos by Bill Pritchett; flight photos by Jay Smith
The Flyin’: I hope that by now you think the
SU-26MM would be easy for you to prepare
to fly—because it is. And it’s even easier to
fly! Mine took one click of up and two clicks
of right aileron, and that was it.
If you want to fly a larger gas airplane
(and this project would be perfect!),
remember to keep up the speed a bit around
the ground. Let it fly off of the ground on
takeoff; at close to half throttle, it will lift off
effortlessly after gaining ground speed. Keep
some speed on approach, and it’s a greased
landing every time.
The biggest difference between this Sukhoi
and your 60-size aircraft is that you can’t cut
the throttle at 10 feet and start pulling on the
elevator; let it fly!
On low rates, this airplane will fly similar to
a 60-size “second” airplane. On high rates, let
your imagination run wild. It has great powerto-
weight and will do anything you can do.
One of the things I like most about this
model is how easy it is to see. The color
scheme is perfect for my eyes, and others who
have seen it fly say the same; it looks great in
the air!
The flying report is short for a reason:
there’s not much to report. I have my Sukhoi
set up with a CG that calls for a slight push
when inverted, and I love it.
Do not be intimidated by the size of this
airplane. It has all the great flying
characteristics of the “bigger is better” concept
and none of the bad. Did I mention how good
it looks in the air?
Tips:
• Carburetor: If you are new to running gas
power plants with a Walbro carburetor, I have
some information for you that was not covered
in the instructions.
The fuel line from the clunk should go to
the black plastic inlet. The metal inlet on top is
an atmospheric vent, and the bottom inlet is
the pump diaphragm that is connected to the
crankcase tap.
• Fuel line: The plumbing on the clunk side is
cool—but unnecessary in my experience. I
removed close to a foot of that line and ran
straight into the motor box from the fill-line Tconnection.
• RTV: I like to use room-temperature
vulcanizing (RTV) silicone on hardware that I
don’t want to come off but will want to take
off sometime.
Loctite is great on engine mounts, propeller
bolts, etc. However, this will decompose in
time. Because you occasionally check those
anyway, it’s okay. Clean the bolts and put on
more Loctite.
I like to use RTV, or pure clear silicone, on
hardware for tasks such as mounting the cowl.
Vibration will not take out that adhesive, and
it won’t decompose.
On this project I made a small seal of
silicone over the former, below the back of the
cowl. I ran a bead, covered with Saran Wrap,
installed the cowl, and let it dry for 24 hours.
Now there’s no chance of vibration chafing
that large area!
I also like to protect the spark lead from
any contact with the cowl. I cut out an area
that gives the lead room to move a bit and line
it with fuel line; slice it on one side and attach
with RTV. It works great, looks great, and
truly protects that critical lead to the plug.
• Wing bolts: I learned this from the Pattern
community, and it’s a great way to go. Cut
doughnuts of 80-grit sandpaper the size of the
wing-bolt backs. Make a hole the size of your
bolt and, using that RTV you just bought, glue
them on.
Now when you install wing bolts, you’re
assured—with the 80-grit paper up against the
inside of the fuselage—that they will not
vibrate loose. MA
Bill Pritchett
[email protected]
Sources:
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Jersey Modeler
(732) 240-0138
www.jerseymodeler.com
Spektrum
(800) 338-4639
www.spektrumrc.com
Tru-Turn
(281) 479-9600
www.truturn.com
Mejzlik:
Desert Aircraft
(520) 722-0607
www.desertaircraft.com
Loctite
(800) 624-7767
www.loctiteproducts.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2011/08
Page Numbers: 67,68,69,70,72
Edition: Model Aviation - 2011/08
Page Numbers: 67,68,69,70,72
THE MAN: The first time I met Mike
McConville was at an RC Aerobatics
(Pattern) contest, in the late 1980s, at the
Plainfield, Indiana, flying site—at a home for
wayward boys. His name was well known
then, and I recall thinking what a great
weekend this would be: my first Pattern
contest and getting to watch Mike
McConville fly.
I wasn’t disappointed. For good reason, I
felt as if I were in the presence of a “rock
star.”
Mike won his first US Pattern Nats in
1981, when he was only 16 years old, and
since then he has dominated at nearly every
level of competition. He is an eight-time
Tournament of Champions competitor and
two-time finalist, an International Miniature
Aerobatic Club (IMAC) US Nationals
champion, a six-time US F3A (FAI Pattern)
Team Trials competitor, a Giant Scale Pylon
Racing World Champion, and a winner of
more than 200 Pattern and IMAC events.
Although Mike has competed primarily in
Aerobatics and Racing, he has a love for all
aspects of model aviation and enjoys flying
all types of models, both fixed wing and
helicopters. A Cincinnati, Ohio, native with
more than 20 years of experience in the hobby
industry, Mike moved to Champaign, Illinois,
in 1996 to design and develop airplanes for
Horizon Hobby.
He has designed more than 60 aircraft,
including Horizon’s latest release of the
Sukhoi: the SU-26MM SE (Mike
McConville Special Edition), also now
available in a 170cc size. Mike
continues to design outstanding models
that many pilots look forward to flying and
that remind me of that memorable Pattern
contest long ago.
The Build—Er, Assembly: The first thing
you have to do is maybe one of the
toughest: unpack the Sukhoi! It is
extremely well packaged, and it takes time
and space to neatly remove all of the
protective materials inside the boxes. My
airplane had zero damage from shipping,
so it’s obviously worth it to pack so
carefully.
Take a few moments to familiarize
yourself with the instructions and methods
of assembly you’re asked to do. The model
is built from laser-cut balsa and plywood
and then covered in UltraCote.
The landing gear, wing tube, and stabilizer
tube are painted aluminum, while the tail
wheel assembly is carbon. The fiberglass
cowl and wheel pants are nicely painted and
match the covering very well.
I chose to use everything Hangar 9
recommended, including the Spektrum DX8
radio and AR9100 receiver, Spektrum 2S
2000 mAh packs all around, and the pair of
Spektrum VR6007 Voltage Regulators. I also
installed the Evolution 80GX engine and
inverted smoke muffler, as illustrated in the
manual.
Finishing the front end required a quick
Specifications
Type: RC Aerobatic
Experience level: Advanced
Wingspan: 97 inches
Overall length: 91 inches
Wing area: 1,762 square inches:
Flying weight: 21.5-24.0 pounds
Engine: 58cc-85cc gas
Radio: Seven channels
Servos: Five high-torque digitals,
one standard
Propeller: 24 x 10-27 x 10
Spinner: 4¼ inches
Covering: UltraCote
+
• Extremely visible and attractive
• Wonderful attention to detail includes
terrific-looking pilot figure, dashboard
in the cockpit, and many cool
graphics.
• Well-written instructions
• Superb intro to gas and the “bigger is
better” concept
• Easy and honest to fly, and flies
great—capable of precision and
3-D flying to the extreme. -•
This is such a good-looking and -flying
model that some pilots probably love
to have it but would want to use their
own servos—or at least have the
option.
• The well-written instructions are
somewhat difficult to see because the
ink contrast to the paper is poor.
Pluses and Minuses
68 MODEL AVIATION
call to Desert Aircraft for a Mejzlik 27 x
10TH propeller and a 41/2-inch P-51-style
spinner—already cut for the propeller and
backplate-drilled! The 80GX uses the Desert
Aircraft DA-100 engine bolt pattern, so you
might already have gear for this power plant.
I wanted an excuse to replace my old gas
One of my favorite things about this
airplane is how easy it is to see. On takeoff
for the initial test flight, shown, it literally
flew by itself. Allow these bigger airplanes
to gain ground speed, and they climb out
smoothly. It’s also a must for the “cool
factor” to keep it on the ground a bit after
the tail comes off of the runway—and that
won’t take long!
trying to figure all that out!
As the instructions indicate, using a
thread-locking adhesive on all metal-to-metal
hardware that doesn’t come permanently
fitted or that uses self-locking hardware is a
must. The tank is installed, the hot setup for
the vent is already looped on top, and all
cutouts for switches are there waiting on you.
Your basic install is the radio (receiver!)
and engine. That’s it!
In addition to instructions for installing the
80GX were directions for installation the DA-
85, as well as accommodations for a canister
or tuned-pipe setup. There’s plenty of room in
the fuselage if you choose to go that way.
The suggested Pitts-style muffler that goes
with the Evolution power plant should be
perfect for most fliers. Although the hardware
is included and instructions are to use a servodriven
choke, I chose to make that simple and
manual. Even mounts for the 80GX ignition
are preinstalled for a soft-mount setup on the
side of the motor box where it belongs.
The cowl mounts with four bolts that fit
perfectly. In my experience, the things that
will take you some time with this project are
the unpacking and the cowl. As I mentioned,
the Sukhoi is extraordinarily well packaged
for shipping.
When you have the engine/muffler
mounted and it’s time to make clearance
accommodations in the cowl bottom, you
might want to remove a bunch of
the bottom of the cowl. Then it
won’t take long at all!
I spent an entire evening
doing this, to take off as
little as possible while
giving adequate
clearance. Without
Test Model Details
Engine used: Evolution 80GX
Propeller: Mejzlik 27 X 10TH
Radio System: Spektrum DX8,
Spektrum AR9100 9-channel
receiver, five Spektrum A6030
servos, one Spektrum A6000 servo,
three 2000 mAh Li-Poly batteries,
one 6-inch and two 12-inch servo
extensions
Flight duration: 12-15 minutes
Everything went as planned.
This wonderful model will
serve you well in precision
Aerobatics, 3-D, or having a
great time with a great-flying
aircraft!
can and figured this was it! I called Dean at
Jersey Modeler, and he hooked me up with
his great product that is extremely well
thought out and manufactured.
Dean makes it easy to have a completely
sealed fill/drain setup—no more gas fumes in
your vehicle or angering other club members
for killing the grass!
If you’ve ever considered getting a big
airplane but were concerned about the radio
installation/setup or plumbing for a gas
engine, I have great news for you. It’s all
done in the SU-26MM!
In fact, I would be hard-pressed to know
many local fliers, myself included, who
would do a better job of putting servos and
linkages in a large gas aircraft. Sure, the
finalists at the IMAC Nats might have
something a bit different, but this model is
equipped with exactly what you want.
Everywhere you look is professionally
installed Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links—what
I would have used. It’s the right stuff installed
the right way.
All flying surfaces are prehinged and
installed except the rudder. For that, all the
hinges are installed and you simply have to
attach it with the included steel pin. You
follow incredibly well-organized instruction
steps that are basically in a logical order.
I use both a stand on the bench and the
landing gear to handle the model during
assembly, so I did put the landing gear on
earlier than instructed.
One thing I really appreciate is that the
hardware that was not already permanently
installed arrived loosely installed where it
belonged. There was no searching
through a bag of hardware,
measuring, fitting, counting, and
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:47 PM Page 68
Gary Bussell (an AMA District VI associate vice
president), marks the highest/longest parts that will
project out on the template and tapes the template to
the fuselage. Then he cuts out the template where
necessary to lay reasonably flat on the cowl surface, cuts
the edges of the template on the marks shown, and
transfers the template dimensions to the cowl—all while
still taped to the fuselage!
The result of taking time with the cowl cutout. You
could make a huge rectangular opening—that would
be quicker—but this looks so cool! Thanks, Gary!
This is exactly what you’ll see when you open the box. Every servo lead is neatly
run and labeled to the receiver area. It doesn’t get any better than this for
making installing your radio a snap!
All the plumbing is taken care of for you—even the
latest vent extension across the top of the tank to
prevent engine sagging in transition during 3-D!
August 2011 69
modification, the cowl provides ample
exposure of the top of the engine for good
airflow where it’s needed most.
The radio installation gives you two
choices, which provide a location variation
for the CG. One is for precision aerobatics, or
more forward CG; the other is for 3-D, or a
more aft CG. I ended up using the precision
setup with a slight modification.
Directions are to mount the ignition pack
on top of the motor box and run the lead to
the ignition/charge switch. I didn’t want a Li-
Poly buried where I couldn’t remove it to
charge, so I used the space behind the
intended choke servo mount for the ignition
battery. Now I can take all three Li-Polys out
for charging.
I have never had a Li-Poly problem. If you
handle these batteries properly, and more
important, charge them properly, they seem to
be almost foolproof. However, I still like to
take them out of the model to charge.
The other small thing I did differently was
with the suggested throttle-servo setup. I’m
sure that some modelers can make the 90°
bend on 4-40 rod for a keeper while the wire
is in the fuselage, as directed, but the “fun
factor” quickly left when I tried—and tried
and tried. So I soldered on a quick link and
moved ahead.
It works great, because you wouldn’t have
adjustment on that end anyway with a keeper.
And it’s fun to solder!
Final assembly of the radio is so easy.
Every servo lead and extension is clearly
marked and ready for you to plug into your
receiver. The wiring and fuel line are neatly
wire-tied to the inside of the fuselage in a
professional manner.
The first time I powered up the radio, I
had to make a single adjustment to one
servo—and a slight one at that. Amazing
accuracy!
The Spektrum DX8 has been a jewel to
use. Michael Ramsey has completed a review
of that radio in the June issue, so be sure to
check out that article.
Next I did the usual confirmations of
control-throw direction, set the rates and
exponential, confirmed the CG, and I was
finished. If you’re new to gas engines or have
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:51 PM Page 69
lots of experience, you will be pleased with
the Evolution. It handles easily, draws fuel
well, and, as is any good engine, is
predictable.
The ignition works exactly as advertised
and has a great safety feature; it shuts down if
you don’t flip it for 90 seconds. Simply turn it
off and back on, and it’s ready to go again.
Give these power plants a great deal of
respect. Always ensure that the airplane is tied
down and that you have a friend hold for you.
Make sure the wings are mounted every
time you run the engine; they absorb an
amazing amount of vibration that the
fuselage won’t handle by itself.
Do run the power plant on the ground. I
suggest 15-20 minutes of low-speed
ground time with occasional throttle
increases and rpm variations. Include a
range check, as the manufacturer of your
radio suggests (with the engine on), and
you’re ready to fly!
The Evolution 80GX engine proved to be extremely easy to
handle. It draws fuel with the choke on. A couple of flips with the
ignition and choke on, and you’ll get a few “pops.” Open the
choke, set to idle, and it starts right up!
Static photos by Bill Pritchett; flight photos by Jay Smith
The Flyin’: I hope that by now you think the
SU-26MM would be easy for you to prepare
to fly—because it is. And it’s even easier to
fly! Mine took one click of up and two clicks
of right aileron, and that was it.
If you want to fly a larger gas airplane
(and this project would be perfect!),
remember to keep up the speed a bit around
the ground. Let it fly off of the ground on
takeoff; at close to half throttle, it will lift off
effortlessly after gaining ground speed. Keep
some speed on approach, and it’s a greased
landing every time.
The biggest difference between this Sukhoi
and your 60-size aircraft is that you can’t cut
the throttle at 10 feet and start pulling on the
elevator; let it fly!
On low rates, this airplane will fly similar to
a 60-size “second” airplane. On high rates, let
your imagination run wild. It has great powerto-
weight and will do anything you can do.
One of the things I like most about this
model is how easy it is to see. The color
scheme is perfect for my eyes, and others who
have seen it fly say the same; it looks great in
the air!
The flying report is short for a reason:
there’s not much to report. I have my Sukhoi
set up with a CG that calls for a slight push
when inverted, and I love it.
Do not be intimidated by the size of this
airplane. It has all the great flying
characteristics of the “bigger is better” concept
and none of the bad. Did I mention how good
it looks in the air?
Tips:
• Carburetor: If you are new to running gas
power plants with a Walbro carburetor, I have
some information for you that was not covered
in the instructions.
The fuel line from the clunk should go to
the black plastic inlet. The metal inlet on top is
an atmospheric vent, and the bottom inlet is
the pump diaphragm that is connected to the
crankcase tap.
• Fuel line: The plumbing on the clunk side is
cool—but unnecessary in my experience. I
removed close to a foot of that line and ran
straight into the motor box from the fill-line Tconnection.
• RTV: I like to use room-temperature
vulcanizing (RTV) silicone on hardware that I
don’t want to come off but will want to take
off sometime.
Loctite is great on engine mounts, propeller
bolts, etc. However, this will decompose in
time. Because you occasionally check those
anyway, it’s okay. Clean the bolts and put on
more Loctite.
I like to use RTV, or pure clear silicone, on
hardware for tasks such as mounting the cowl.
Vibration will not take out that adhesive, and
it won’t decompose.
On this project I made a small seal of
silicone over the former, below the back of the
cowl. I ran a bead, covered with Saran Wrap,
installed the cowl, and let it dry for 24 hours.
Now there’s no chance of vibration chafing
that large area!
I also like to protect the spark lead from
any contact with the cowl. I cut out an area
that gives the lead room to move a bit and line
it with fuel line; slice it on one side and attach
with RTV. It works great, looks great, and
truly protects that critical lead to the plug.
• Wing bolts: I learned this from the Pattern
community, and it’s a great way to go. Cut
doughnuts of 80-grit sandpaper the size of the
wing-bolt backs. Make a hole the size of your
bolt and, using that RTV you just bought, glue
them on.
Now when you install wing bolts, you’re
assured—with the 80-grit paper up against the
inside of the fuselage—that they will not
vibrate loose. MA
Bill Pritchett
[email protected]
Sources:
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Jersey Modeler
(732) 240-0138
www.jerseymodeler.com
Spektrum
(800) 338-4639
www.spektrumrc.com
Tru-Turn
(281) 479-9600
www.truturn.com
Mejzlik:
Desert Aircraft
(520) 722-0607
www.desertaircraft.com
Loctite
(800) 624-7767
www.loctiteproducts.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2011/08
Page Numbers: 67,68,69,70,72
THE MAN: The first time I met Mike
McConville was at an RC Aerobatics
(Pattern) contest, in the late 1980s, at the
Plainfield, Indiana, flying site—at a home for
wayward boys. His name was well known
then, and I recall thinking what a great
weekend this would be: my first Pattern
contest and getting to watch Mike
McConville fly.
I wasn’t disappointed. For good reason, I
felt as if I were in the presence of a “rock
star.”
Mike won his first US Pattern Nats in
1981, when he was only 16 years old, and
since then he has dominated at nearly every
level of competition. He is an eight-time
Tournament of Champions competitor and
two-time finalist, an International Miniature
Aerobatic Club (IMAC) US Nationals
champion, a six-time US F3A (FAI Pattern)
Team Trials competitor, a Giant Scale Pylon
Racing World Champion, and a winner of
more than 200 Pattern and IMAC events.
Although Mike has competed primarily in
Aerobatics and Racing, he has a love for all
aspects of model aviation and enjoys flying
all types of models, both fixed wing and
helicopters. A Cincinnati, Ohio, native with
more than 20 years of experience in the hobby
industry, Mike moved to Champaign, Illinois,
in 1996 to design and develop airplanes for
Horizon Hobby.
He has designed more than 60 aircraft,
including Horizon’s latest release of the
Sukhoi: the SU-26MM SE (Mike
McConville Special Edition), also now
available in a 170cc size. Mike
continues to design outstanding models
that many pilots look forward to flying and
that remind me of that memorable Pattern
contest long ago.
The Build—Er, Assembly: The first thing
you have to do is maybe one of the
toughest: unpack the Sukhoi! It is
extremely well packaged, and it takes time
and space to neatly remove all of the
protective materials inside the boxes. My
airplane had zero damage from shipping,
so it’s obviously worth it to pack so
carefully.
Take a few moments to familiarize
yourself with the instructions and methods
of assembly you’re asked to do. The model
is built from laser-cut balsa and plywood
and then covered in UltraCote.
The landing gear, wing tube, and stabilizer
tube are painted aluminum, while the tail
wheel assembly is carbon. The fiberglass
cowl and wheel pants are nicely painted and
match the covering very well.
I chose to use everything Hangar 9
recommended, including the Spektrum DX8
radio and AR9100 receiver, Spektrum 2S
2000 mAh packs all around, and the pair of
Spektrum VR6007 Voltage Regulators. I also
installed the Evolution 80GX engine and
inverted smoke muffler, as illustrated in the
manual.
Finishing the front end required a quick
Specifications
Type: RC Aerobatic
Experience level: Advanced
Wingspan: 97 inches
Overall length: 91 inches
Wing area: 1,762 square inches:
Flying weight: 21.5-24.0 pounds
Engine: 58cc-85cc gas
Radio: Seven channels
Servos: Five high-torque digitals,
one standard
Propeller: 24 x 10-27 x 10
Spinner: 4¼ inches
Covering: UltraCote
+
• Extremely visible and attractive
• Wonderful attention to detail includes
terrific-looking pilot figure, dashboard
in the cockpit, and many cool
graphics.
• Well-written instructions
• Superb intro to gas and the “bigger is
better” concept
• Easy and honest to fly, and flies
great—capable of precision and
3-D flying to the extreme. -•
This is such a good-looking and -flying
model that some pilots probably love
to have it but would want to use their
own servos—or at least have the
option.
• The well-written instructions are
somewhat difficult to see because the
ink contrast to the paper is poor.
Pluses and Minuses
68 MODEL AVIATION
call to Desert Aircraft for a Mejzlik 27 x
10TH propeller and a 41/2-inch P-51-style
spinner—already cut for the propeller and
backplate-drilled! The 80GX uses the Desert
Aircraft DA-100 engine bolt pattern, so you
might already have gear for this power plant.
I wanted an excuse to replace my old gas
One of my favorite things about this
airplane is how easy it is to see. On takeoff
for the initial test flight, shown, it literally
flew by itself. Allow these bigger airplanes
to gain ground speed, and they climb out
smoothly. It’s also a must for the “cool
factor” to keep it on the ground a bit after
the tail comes off of the runway—and that
won’t take long!
trying to figure all that out!
As the instructions indicate, using a
thread-locking adhesive on all metal-to-metal
hardware that doesn’t come permanently
fitted or that uses self-locking hardware is a
must. The tank is installed, the hot setup for
the vent is already looped on top, and all
cutouts for switches are there waiting on you.
Your basic install is the radio (receiver!)
and engine. That’s it!
In addition to instructions for installing the
80GX were directions for installation the DA-
85, as well as accommodations for a canister
or tuned-pipe setup. There’s plenty of room in
the fuselage if you choose to go that way.
The suggested Pitts-style muffler that goes
with the Evolution power plant should be
perfect for most fliers. Although the hardware
is included and instructions are to use a servodriven
choke, I chose to make that simple and
manual. Even mounts for the 80GX ignition
are preinstalled for a soft-mount setup on the
side of the motor box where it belongs.
The cowl mounts with four bolts that fit
perfectly. In my experience, the things that
will take you some time with this project are
the unpacking and the cowl. As I mentioned,
the Sukhoi is extraordinarily well packaged
for shipping.
When you have the engine/muffler
mounted and it’s time to make clearance
accommodations in the cowl bottom, you
might want to remove a bunch of
the bottom of the cowl. Then it
won’t take long at all!
I spent an entire evening
doing this, to take off as
little as possible while
giving adequate
clearance. Without
Test Model Details
Engine used: Evolution 80GX
Propeller: Mejzlik 27 X 10TH
Radio System: Spektrum DX8,
Spektrum AR9100 9-channel
receiver, five Spektrum A6030
servos, one Spektrum A6000 servo,
three 2000 mAh Li-Poly batteries,
one 6-inch and two 12-inch servo
extensions
Flight duration: 12-15 minutes
Everything went as planned.
This wonderful model will
serve you well in precision
Aerobatics, 3-D, or having a
great time with a great-flying
aircraft!
can and figured this was it! I called Dean at
Jersey Modeler, and he hooked me up with
his great product that is extremely well
thought out and manufactured.
Dean makes it easy to have a completely
sealed fill/drain setup—no more gas fumes in
your vehicle or angering other club members
for killing the grass!
If you’ve ever considered getting a big
airplane but were concerned about the radio
installation/setup or plumbing for a gas
engine, I have great news for you. It’s all
done in the SU-26MM!
In fact, I would be hard-pressed to know
many local fliers, myself included, who
would do a better job of putting servos and
linkages in a large gas aircraft. Sure, the
finalists at the IMAC Nats might have
something a bit different, but this model is
equipped with exactly what you want.
Everywhere you look is professionally
installed Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links—what
I would have used. It’s the right stuff installed
the right way.
All flying surfaces are prehinged and
installed except the rudder. For that, all the
hinges are installed and you simply have to
attach it with the included steel pin. You
follow incredibly well-organized instruction
steps that are basically in a logical order.
I use both a stand on the bench and the
landing gear to handle the model during
assembly, so I did put the landing gear on
earlier than instructed.
One thing I really appreciate is that the
hardware that was not already permanently
installed arrived loosely installed where it
belonged. There was no searching
through a bag of hardware,
measuring, fitting, counting, and
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:47 PM Page 68
Gary Bussell (an AMA District VI associate vice
president), marks the highest/longest parts that will
project out on the template and tapes the template to
the fuselage. Then he cuts out the template where
necessary to lay reasonably flat on the cowl surface, cuts
the edges of the template on the marks shown, and
transfers the template dimensions to the cowl—all while
still taped to the fuselage!
The result of taking time with the cowl cutout. You
could make a huge rectangular opening—that would
be quicker—but this looks so cool! Thanks, Gary!
This is exactly what you’ll see when you open the box. Every servo lead is neatly
run and labeled to the receiver area. It doesn’t get any better than this for
making installing your radio a snap!
All the plumbing is taken care of for you—even the
latest vent extension across the top of the tank to
prevent engine sagging in transition during 3-D!
August 2011 69
modification, the cowl provides ample
exposure of the top of the engine for good
airflow where it’s needed most.
The radio installation gives you two
choices, which provide a location variation
for the CG. One is for precision aerobatics, or
more forward CG; the other is for 3-D, or a
more aft CG. I ended up using the precision
setup with a slight modification.
Directions are to mount the ignition pack
on top of the motor box and run the lead to
the ignition/charge switch. I didn’t want a Li-
Poly buried where I couldn’t remove it to
charge, so I used the space behind the
intended choke servo mount for the ignition
battery. Now I can take all three Li-Polys out
for charging.
I have never had a Li-Poly problem. If you
handle these batteries properly, and more
important, charge them properly, they seem to
be almost foolproof. However, I still like to
take them out of the model to charge.
The other small thing I did differently was
with the suggested throttle-servo setup. I’m
sure that some modelers can make the 90°
bend on 4-40 rod for a keeper while the wire
is in the fuselage, as directed, but the “fun
factor” quickly left when I tried—and tried
and tried. So I soldered on a quick link and
moved ahead.
It works great, because you wouldn’t have
adjustment on that end anyway with a keeper.
And it’s fun to solder!
Final assembly of the radio is so easy.
Every servo lead and extension is clearly
marked and ready for you to plug into your
receiver. The wiring and fuel line are neatly
wire-tied to the inside of the fuselage in a
professional manner.
The first time I powered up the radio, I
had to make a single adjustment to one
servo—and a slight one at that. Amazing
accuracy!
The Spektrum DX8 has been a jewel to
use. Michael Ramsey has completed a review
of that radio in the June issue, so be sure to
check out that article.
Next I did the usual confirmations of
control-throw direction, set the rates and
exponential, confirmed the CG, and I was
finished. If you’re new to gas engines or have
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:51 PM Page 69
lots of experience, you will be pleased with
the Evolution. It handles easily, draws fuel
well, and, as is any good engine, is
predictable.
The ignition works exactly as advertised
and has a great safety feature; it shuts down if
you don’t flip it for 90 seconds. Simply turn it
off and back on, and it’s ready to go again.
Give these power plants a great deal of
respect. Always ensure that the airplane is tied
down and that you have a friend hold for you.
Make sure the wings are mounted every
time you run the engine; they absorb an
amazing amount of vibration that the
fuselage won’t handle by itself.
Do run the power plant on the ground. I
suggest 15-20 minutes of low-speed
ground time with occasional throttle
increases and rpm variations. Include a
range check, as the manufacturer of your
radio suggests (with the engine on), and
you’re ready to fly!
The Evolution 80GX engine proved to be extremely easy to
handle. It draws fuel with the choke on. A couple of flips with the
ignition and choke on, and you’ll get a few “pops.” Open the
choke, set to idle, and it starts right up!
Static photos by Bill Pritchett; flight photos by Jay Smith
The Flyin’: I hope that by now you think the
SU-26MM would be easy for you to prepare
to fly—because it is. And it’s even easier to
fly! Mine took one click of up and two clicks
of right aileron, and that was it.
If you want to fly a larger gas airplane
(and this project would be perfect!),
remember to keep up the speed a bit around
the ground. Let it fly off of the ground on
takeoff; at close to half throttle, it will lift off
effortlessly after gaining ground speed. Keep
some speed on approach, and it’s a greased
landing every time.
The biggest difference between this Sukhoi
and your 60-size aircraft is that you can’t cut
the throttle at 10 feet and start pulling on the
elevator; let it fly!
On low rates, this airplane will fly similar to
a 60-size “second” airplane. On high rates, let
your imagination run wild. It has great powerto-
weight and will do anything you can do.
One of the things I like most about this
model is how easy it is to see. The color
scheme is perfect for my eyes, and others who
have seen it fly say the same; it looks great in
the air!
The flying report is short for a reason:
there’s not much to report. I have my Sukhoi
set up with a CG that calls for a slight push
when inverted, and I love it.
Do not be intimidated by the size of this
airplane. It has all the great flying
characteristics of the “bigger is better” concept
and none of the bad. Did I mention how good
it looks in the air?
Tips:
• Carburetor: If you are new to running gas
power plants with a Walbro carburetor, I have
some information for you that was not covered
in the instructions.
The fuel line from the clunk should go to
the black plastic inlet. The metal inlet on top is
an atmospheric vent, and the bottom inlet is
the pump diaphragm that is connected to the
crankcase tap.
• Fuel line: The plumbing on the clunk side is
cool—but unnecessary in my experience. I
removed close to a foot of that line and ran
straight into the motor box from the fill-line Tconnection.
• RTV: I like to use room-temperature
vulcanizing (RTV) silicone on hardware that I
don’t want to come off but will want to take
off sometime.
Loctite is great on engine mounts, propeller
bolts, etc. However, this will decompose in
time. Because you occasionally check those
anyway, it’s okay. Clean the bolts and put on
more Loctite.
I like to use RTV, or pure clear silicone, on
hardware for tasks such as mounting the cowl.
Vibration will not take out that adhesive, and
it won’t decompose.
On this project I made a small seal of
silicone over the former, below the back of the
cowl. I ran a bead, covered with Saran Wrap,
installed the cowl, and let it dry for 24 hours.
Now there’s no chance of vibration chafing
that large area!
I also like to protect the spark lead from
any contact with the cowl. I cut out an area
that gives the lead room to move a bit and line
it with fuel line; slice it on one side and attach
with RTV. It works great, looks great, and
truly protects that critical lead to the plug.
• Wing bolts: I learned this from the Pattern
community, and it’s a great way to go. Cut
doughnuts of 80-grit sandpaper the size of the
wing-bolt backs. Make a hole the size of your
bolt and, using that RTV you just bought, glue
them on.
Now when you install wing bolts, you’re
assured—with the 80-grit paper up against the
inside of the fuselage—that they will not
vibrate loose. MA
Bill Pritchett
[email protected]
Sources:
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Jersey Modeler
(732) 240-0138
www.jerseymodeler.com
Spektrum
(800) 338-4639
www.spektrumrc.com
Tru-Turn
(281) 479-9600
www.truturn.com
Mejzlik:
Desert Aircraft
(520) 722-0607
www.desertaircraft.com
Loctite
(800) 624-7767
www.loctiteproducts.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2011/08
Page Numbers: 67,68,69,70,72
THE MAN: The first time I met Mike
McConville was at an RC Aerobatics
(Pattern) contest, in the late 1980s, at the
Plainfield, Indiana, flying site—at a home for
wayward boys. His name was well known
then, and I recall thinking what a great
weekend this would be: my first Pattern
contest and getting to watch Mike
McConville fly.
I wasn’t disappointed. For good reason, I
felt as if I were in the presence of a “rock
star.”
Mike won his first US Pattern Nats in
1981, when he was only 16 years old, and
since then he has dominated at nearly every
level of competition. He is an eight-time
Tournament of Champions competitor and
two-time finalist, an International Miniature
Aerobatic Club (IMAC) US Nationals
champion, a six-time US F3A (FAI Pattern)
Team Trials competitor, a Giant Scale Pylon
Racing World Champion, and a winner of
more than 200 Pattern and IMAC events.
Although Mike has competed primarily in
Aerobatics and Racing, he has a love for all
aspects of model aviation and enjoys flying
all types of models, both fixed wing and
helicopters. A Cincinnati, Ohio, native with
more than 20 years of experience in the hobby
industry, Mike moved to Champaign, Illinois,
in 1996 to design and develop airplanes for
Horizon Hobby.
He has designed more than 60 aircraft,
including Horizon’s latest release of the
Sukhoi: the SU-26MM SE (Mike
McConville Special Edition), also now
available in a 170cc size. Mike
continues to design outstanding models
that many pilots look forward to flying and
that remind me of that memorable Pattern
contest long ago.
The Build—Er, Assembly: The first thing
you have to do is maybe one of the
toughest: unpack the Sukhoi! It is
extremely well packaged, and it takes time
and space to neatly remove all of the
protective materials inside the boxes. My
airplane had zero damage from shipping,
so it’s obviously worth it to pack so
carefully.
Take a few moments to familiarize
yourself with the instructions and methods
of assembly you’re asked to do. The model
is built from laser-cut balsa and plywood
and then covered in UltraCote.
The landing gear, wing tube, and stabilizer
tube are painted aluminum, while the tail
wheel assembly is carbon. The fiberglass
cowl and wheel pants are nicely painted and
match the covering very well.
I chose to use everything Hangar 9
recommended, including the Spektrum DX8
radio and AR9100 receiver, Spektrum 2S
2000 mAh packs all around, and the pair of
Spektrum VR6007 Voltage Regulators. I also
installed the Evolution 80GX engine and
inverted smoke muffler, as illustrated in the
manual.
Finishing the front end required a quick
Specifications
Type: RC Aerobatic
Experience level: Advanced
Wingspan: 97 inches
Overall length: 91 inches
Wing area: 1,762 square inches:
Flying weight: 21.5-24.0 pounds
Engine: 58cc-85cc gas
Radio: Seven channels
Servos: Five high-torque digitals,
one standard
Propeller: 24 x 10-27 x 10
Spinner: 4¼ inches
Covering: UltraCote
+
• Extremely visible and attractive
• Wonderful attention to detail includes
terrific-looking pilot figure, dashboard
in the cockpit, and many cool
graphics.
• Well-written instructions
• Superb intro to gas and the “bigger is
better” concept
• Easy and honest to fly, and flies
great—capable of precision and
3-D flying to the extreme. -•
This is such a good-looking and -flying
model that some pilots probably love
to have it but would want to use their
own servos—or at least have the
option.
• The well-written instructions are
somewhat difficult to see because the
ink contrast to the paper is poor.
Pluses and Minuses
68 MODEL AVIATION
call to Desert Aircraft for a Mejzlik 27 x
10TH propeller and a 41/2-inch P-51-style
spinner—already cut for the propeller and
backplate-drilled! The 80GX uses the Desert
Aircraft DA-100 engine bolt pattern, so you
might already have gear for this power plant.
I wanted an excuse to replace my old gas
One of my favorite things about this
airplane is how easy it is to see. On takeoff
for the initial test flight, shown, it literally
flew by itself. Allow these bigger airplanes
to gain ground speed, and they climb out
smoothly. It’s also a must for the “cool
factor” to keep it on the ground a bit after
the tail comes off of the runway—and that
won’t take long!
trying to figure all that out!
As the instructions indicate, using a
thread-locking adhesive on all metal-to-metal
hardware that doesn’t come permanently
fitted or that uses self-locking hardware is a
must. The tank is installed, the hot setup for
the vent is already looped on top, and all
cutouts for switches are there waiting on you.
Your basic install is the radio (receiver!)
and engine. That’s it!
In addition to instructions for installing the
80GX were directions for installation the DA-
85, as well as accommodations for a canister
or tuned-pipe setup. There’s plenty of room in
the fuselage if you choose to go that way.
The suggested Pitts-style muffler that goes
with the Evolution power plant should be
perfect for most fliers. Although the hardware
is included and instructions are to use a servodriven
choke, I chose to make that simple and
manual. Even mounts for the 80GX ignition
are preinstalled for a soft-mount setup on the
side of the motor box where it belongs.
The cowl mounts with four bolts that fit
perfectly. In my experience, the things that
will take you some time with this project are
the unpacking and the cowl. As I mentioned,
the Sukhoi is extraordinarily well packaged
for shipping.
When you have the engine/muffler
mounted and it’s time to make clearance
accommodations in the cowl bottom, you
might want to remove a bunch of
the bottom of the cowl. Then it
won’t take long at all!
I spent an entire evening
doing this, to take off as
little as possible while
giving adequate
clearance. Without
Test Model Details
Engine used: Evolution 80GX
Propeller: Mejzlik 27 X 10TH
Radio System: Spektrum DX8,
Spektrum AR9100 9-channel
receiver, five Spektrum A6030
servos, one Spektrum A6000 servo,
three 2000 mAh Li-Poly batteries,
one 6-inch and two 12-inch servo
extensions
Flight duration: 12-15 minutes
Everything went as planned.
This wonderful model will
serve you well in precision
Aerobatics, 3-D, or having a
great time with a great-flying
aircraft!
can and figured this was it! I called Dean at
Jersey Modeler, and he hooked me up with
his great product that is extremely well
thought out and manufactured.
Dean makes it easy to have a completely
sealed fill/drain setup—no more gas fumes in
your vehicle or angering other club members
for killing the grass!
If you’ve ever considered getting a big
airplane but were concerned about the radio
installation/setup or plumbing for a gas
engine, I have great news for you. It’s all
done in the SU-26MM!
In fact, I would be hard-pressed to know
many local fliers, myself included, who
would do a better job of putting servos and
linkages in a large gas aircraft. Sure, the
finalists at the IMAC Nats might have
something a bit different, but this model is
equipped with exactly what you want.
Everywhere you look is professionally
installed Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links—what
I would have used. It’s the right stuff installed
the right way.
All flying surfaces are prehinged and
installed except the rudder. For that, all the
hinges are installed and you simply have to
attach it with the included steel pin. You
follow incredibly well-organized instruction
steps that are basically in a logical order.
I use both a stand on the bench and the
landing gear to handle the model during
assembly, so I did put the landing gear on
earlier than instructed.
One thing I really appreciate is that the
hardware that was not already permanently
installed arrived loosely installed where it
belonged. There was no searching
through a bag of hardware,
measuring, fitting, counting, and
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:47 PM Page 68
Gary Bussell (an AMA District VI associate vice
president), marks the highest/longest parts that will
project out on the template and tapes the template to
the fuselage. Then he cuts out the template where
necessary to lay reasonably flat on the cowl surface, cuts
the edges of the template on the marks shown, and
transfers the template dimensions to the cowl—all while
still taped to the fuselage!
The result of taking time with the cowl cutout. You
could make a huge rectangular opening—that would
be quicker—but this looks so cool! Thanks, Gary!
This is exactly what you’ll see when you open the box. Every servo lead is neatly
run and labeled to the receiver area. It doesn’t get any better than this for
making installing your radio a snap!
All the plumbing is taken care of for you—even the
latest vent extension across the top of the tank to
prevent engine sagging in transition during 3-D!
August 2011 69
modification, the cowl provides ample
exposure of the top of the engine for good
airflow where it’s needed most.
The radio installation gives you two
choices, which provide a location variation
for the CG. One is for precision aerobatics, or
more forward CG; the other is for 3-D, or a
more aft CG. I ended up using the precision
setup with a slight modification.
Directions are to mount the ignition pack
on top of the motor box and run the lead to
the ignition/charge switch. I didn’t want a Li-
Poly buried where I couldn’t remove it to
charge, so I used the space behind the
intended choke servo mount for the ignition
battery. Now I can take all three Li-Polys out
for charging.
I have never had a Li-Poly problem. If you
handle these batteries properly, and more
important, charge them properly, they seem to
be almost foolproof. However, I still like to
take them out of the model to charge.
The other small thing I did differently was
with the suggested throttle-servo setup. I’m
sure that some modelers can make the 90°
bend on 4-40 rod for a keeper while the wire
is in the fuselage, as directed, but the “fun
factor” quickly left when I tried—and tried
and tried. So I soldered on a quick link and
moved ahead.
It works great, because you wouldn’t have
adjustment on that end anyway with a keeper.
And it’s fun to solder!
Final assembly of the radio is so easy.
Every servo lead and extension is clearly
marked and ready for you to plug into your
receiver. The wiring and fuel line are neatly
wire-tied to the inside of the fuselage in a
professional manner.
The first time I powered up the radio, I
had to make a single adjustment to one
servo—and a slight one at that. Amazing
accuracy!
The Spektrum DX8 has been a jewel to
use. Michael Ramsey has completed a review
of that radio in the June issue, so be sure to
check out that article.
Next I did the usual confirmations of
control-throw direction, set the rates and
exponential, confirmed the CG, and I was
finished. If you’re new to gas engines or have
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:51 PM Page 69
lots of experience, you will be pleased with
the Evolution. It handles easily, draws fuel
well, and, as is any good engine, is
predictable.
The ignition works exactly as advertised
and has a great safety feature; it shuts down if
you don’t flip it for 90 seconds. Simply turn it
off and back on, and it’s ready to go again.
Give these power plants a great deal of
respect. Always ensure that the airplane is tied
down and that you have a friend hold for you.
Make sure the wings are mounted every
time you run the engine; they absorb an
amazing amount of vibration that the
fuselage won’t handle by itself.
Do run the power plant on the ground. I
suggest 15-20 minutes of low-speed
ground time with occasional throttle
increases and rpm variations. Include a
range check, as the manufacturer of your
radio suggests (with the engine on), and
you’re ready to fly!
The Evolution 80GX engine proved to be extremely easy to
handle. It draws fuel with the choke on. A couple of flips with the
ignition and choke on, and you’ll get a few “pops.” Open the
choke, set to idle, and it starts right up!
Static photos by Bill Pritchett; flight photos by Jay Smith
The Flyin’: I hope that by now you think the
SU-26MM would be easy for you to prepare
to fly—because it is. And it’s even easier to
fly! Mine took one click of up and two clicks
of right aileron, and that was it.
If you want to fly a larger gas airplane
(and this project would be perfect!),
remember to keep up the speed a bit around
the ground. Let it fly off of the ground on
takeoff; at close to half throttle, it will lift off
effortlessly after gaining ground speed. Keep
some speed on approach, and it’s a greased
landing every time.
The biggest difference between this Sukhoi
and your 60-size aircraft is that you can’t cut
the throttle at 10 feet and start pulling on the
elevator; let it fly!
On low rates, this airplane will fly similar to
a 60-size “second” airplane. On high rates, let
your imagination run wild. It has great powerto-
weight and will do anything you can do.
One of the things I like most about this
model is how easy it is to see. The color
scheme is perfect for my eyes, and others who
have seen it fly say the same; it looks great in
the air!
The flying report is short for a reason:
there’s not much to report. I have my Sukhoi
set up with a CG that calls for a slight push
when inverted, and I love it.
Do not be intimidated by the size of this
airplane. It has all the great flying
characteristics of the “bigger is better” concept
and none of the bad. Did I mention how good
it looks in the air?
Tips:
• Carburetor: If you are new to running gas
power plants with a Walbro carburetor, I have
some information for you that was not covered
in the instructions.
The fuel line from the clunk should go to
the black plastic inlet. The metal inlet on top is
an atmospheric vent, and the bottom inlet is
the pump diaphragm that is connected to the
crankcase tap.
• Fuel line: The plumbing on the clunk side is
cool—but unnecessary in my experience. I
removed close to a foot of that line and ran
straight into the motor box from the fill-line Tconnection.
• RTV: I like to use room-temperature
vulcanizing (RTV) silicone on hardware that I
don’t want to come off but will want to take
off sometime.
Loctite is great on engine mounts, propeller
bolts, etc. However, this will decompose in
time. Because you occasionally check those
anyway, it’s okay. Clean the bolts and put on
more Loctite.
I like to use RTV, or pure clear silicone, on
hardware for tasks such as mounting the cowl.
Vibration will not take out that adhesive, and
it won’t decompose.
On this project I made a small seal of
silicone over the former, below the back of the
cowl. I ran a bead, covered with Saran Wrap,
installed the cowl, and let it dry for 24 hours.
Now there’s no chance of vibration chafing
that large area!
I also like to protect the spark lead from
any contact with the cowl. I cut out an area
that gives the lead room to move a bit and line
it with fuel line; slice it on one side and attach
with RTV. It works great, looks great, and
truly protects that critical lead to the plug.
• Wing bolts: I learned this from the Pattern
community, and it’s a great way to go. Cut
doughnuts of 80-grit sandpaper the size of the
wing-bolt backs. Make a hole the size of your
bolt and, using that RTV you just bought, glue
them on.
Now when you install wing bolts, you’re
assured—with the 80-grit paper up against the
inside of the fuselage—that they will not
vibrate loose. MA
Bill Pritchett
[email protected]
Sources:
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Jersey Modeler
(732) 240-0138
www.jerseymodeler.com
Spektrum
(800) 338-4639
www.spektrumrc.com
Tru-Turn
(281) 479-9600
www.truturn.com
Mejzlik:
Desert Aircraft
(520) 722-0607
www.desertaircraft.com
Loctite
(800) 624-7767
www.loctiteproducts.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2011/08
Page Numbers: 67,68,69,70,72
THE MAN: The first time I met Mike
McConville was at an RC Aerobatics
(Pattern) contest, in the late 1980s, at the
Plainfield, Indiana, flying site—at a home for
wayward boys. His name was well known
then, and I recall thinking what a great
weekend this would be: my first Pattern
contest and getting to watch Mike
McConville fly.
I wasn’t disappointed. For good reason, I
felt as if I were in the presence of a “rock
star.”
Mike won his first US Pattern Nats in
1981, when he was only 16 years old, and
since then he has dominated at nearly every
level of competition. He is an eight-time
Tournament of Champions competitor and
two-time finalist, an International Miniature
Aerobatic Club (IMAC) US Nationals
champion, a six-time US F3A (FAI Pattern)
Team Trials competitor, a Giant Scale Pylon
Racing World Champion, and a winner of
more than 200 Pattern and IMAC events.
Although Mike has competed primarily in
Aerobatics and Racing, he has a love for all
aspects of model aviation and enjoys flying
all types of models, both fixed wing and
helicopters. A Cincinnati, Ohio, native with
more than 20 years of experience in the hobby
industry, Mike moved to Champaign, Illinois,
in 1996 to design and develop airplanes for
Horizon Hobby.
He has designed more than 60 aircraft,
including Horizon’s latest release of the
Sukhoi: the SU-26MM SE (Mike
McConville Special Edition), also now
available in a 170cc size. Mike
continues to design outstanding models
that many pilots look forward to flying and
that remind me of that memorable Pattern
contest long ago.
The Build—Er, Assembly: The first thing
you have to do is maybe one of the
toughest: unpack the Sukhoi! It is
extremely well packaged, and it takes time
and space to neatly remove all of the
protective materials inside the boxes. My
airplane had zero damage from shipping,
so it’s obviously worth it to pack so
carefully.
Take a few moments to familiarize
yourself with the instructions and methods
of assembly you’re asked to do. The model
is built from laser-cut balsa and plywood
and then covered in UltraCote.
The landing gear, wing tube, and stabilizer
tube are painted aluminum, while the tail
wheel assembly is carbon. The fiberglass
cowl and wheel pants are nicely painted and
match the covering very well.
I chose to use everything Hangar 9
recommended, including the Spektrum DX8
radio and AR9100 receiver, Spektrum 2S
2000 mAh packs all around, and the pair of
Spektrum VR6007 Voltage Regulators. I also
installed the Evolution 80GX engine and
inverted smoke muffler, as illustrated in the
manual.
Finishing the front end required a quick
Specifications
Type: RC Aerobatic
Experience level: Advanced
Wingspan: 97 inches
Overall length: 91 inches
Wing area: 1,762 square inches:
Flying weight: 21.5-24.0 pounds
Engine: 58cc-85cc gas
Radio: Seven channels
Servos: Five high-torque digitals,
one standard
Propeller: 24 x 10-27 x 10
Spinner: 4¼ inches
Covering: UltraCote
+
• Extremely visible and attractive
• Wonderful attention to detail includes
terrific-looking pilot figure, dashboard
in the cockpit, and many cool
graphics.
• Well-written instructions
• Superb intro to gas and the “bigger is
better” concept
• Easy and honest to fly, and flies
great—capable of precision and
3-D flying to the extreme. -•
This is such a good-looking and -flying
model that some pilots probably love
to have it but would want to use their
own servos—or at least have the
option.
• The well-written instructions are
somewhat difficult to see because the
ink contrast to the paper is poor.
Pluses and Minuses
68 MODEL AVIATION
call to Desert Aircraft for a Mejzlik 27 x
10TH propeller and a 41/2-inch P-51-style
spinner—already cut for the propeller and
backplate-drilled! The 80GX uses the Desert
Aircraft DA-100 engine bolt pattern, so you
might already have gear for this power plant.
I wanted an excuse to replace my old gas
One of my favorite things about this
airplane is how easy it is to see. On takeoff
for the initial test flight, shown, it literally
flew by itself. Allow these bigger airplanes
to gain ground speed, and they climb out
smoothly. It’s also a must for the “cool
factor” to keep it on the ground a bit after
the tail comes off of the runway—and that
won’t take long!
trying to figure all that out!
As the instructions indicate, using a
thread-locking adhesive on all metal-to-metal
hardware that doesn’t come permanently
fitted or that uses self-locking hardware is a
must. The tank is installed, the hot setup for
the vent is already looped on top, and all
cutouts for switches are there waiting on you.
Your basic install is the radio (receiver!)
and engine. That’s it!
In addition to instructions for installing the
80GX were directions for installation the DA-
85, as well as accommodations for a canister
or tuned-pipe setup. There’s plenty of room in
the fuselage if you choose to go that way.
The suggested Pitts-style muffler that goes
with the Evolution power plant should be
perfect for most fliers. Although the hardware
is included and instructions are to use a servodriven
choke, I chose to make that simple and
manual. Even mounts for the 80GX ignition
are preinstalled for a soft-mount setup on the
side of the motor box where it belongs.
The cowl mounts with four bolts that fit
perfectly. In my experience, the things that
will take you some time with this project are
the unpacking and the cowl. As I mentioned,
the Sukhoi is extraordinarily well packaged
for shipping.
When you have the engine/muffler
mounted and it’s time to make clearance
accommodations in the cowl bottom, you
might want to remove a bunch of
the bottom of the cowl. Then it
won’t take long at all!
I spent an entire evening
doing this, to take off as
little as possible while
giving adequate
clearance. Without
Test Model Details
Engine used: Evolution 80GX
Propeller: Mejzlik 27 X 10TH
Radio System: Spektrum DX8,
Spektrum AR9100 9-channel
receiver, five Spektrum A6030
servos, one Spektrum A6000 servo,
three 2000 mAh Li-Poly batteries,
one 6-inch and two 12-inch servo
extensions
Flight duration: 12-15 minutes
Everything went as planned.
This wonderful model will
serve you well in precision
Aerobatics, 3-D, or having a
great time with a great-flying
aircraft!
can and figured this was it! I called Dean at
Jersey Modeler, and he hooked me up with
his great product that is extremely well
thought out and manufactured.
Dean makes it easy to have a completely
sealed fill/drain setup—no more gas fumes in
your vehicle or angering other club members
for killing the grass!
If you’ve ever considered getting a big
airplane but were concerned about the radio
installation/setup or plumbing for a gas
engine, I have great news for you. It’s all
done in the SU-26MM!
In fact, I would be hard-pressed to know
many local fliers, myself included, who
would do a better job of putting servos and
linkages in a large gas aircraft. Sure, the
finalists at the IMAC Nats might have
something a bit different, but this model is
equipped with exactly what you want.
Everywhere you look is professionally
installed Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links—what
I would have used. It’s the right stuff installed
the right way.
All flying surfaces are prehinged and
installed except the rudder. For that, all the
hinges are installed and you simply have to
attach it with the included steel pin. You
follow incredibly well-organized instruction
steps that are basically in a logical order.
I use both a stand on the bench and the
landing gear to handle the model during
assembly, so I did put the landing gear on
earlier than instructed.
One thing I really appreciate is that the
hardware that was not already permanently
installed arrived loosely installed where it
belonged. There was no searching
through a bag of hardware,
measuring, fitting, counting, and
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:47 PM Page 68
Gary Bussell (an AMA District VI associate vice
president), marks the highest/longest parts that will
project out on the template and tapes the template to
the fuselage. Then he cuts out the template where
necessary to lay reasonably flat on the cowl surface, cuts
the edges of the template on the marks shown, and
transfers the template dimensions to the cowl—all while
still taped to the fuselage!
The result of taking time with the cowl cutout. You
could make a huge rectangular opening—that would
be quicker—but this looks so cool! Thanks, Gary!
This is exactly what you’ll see when you open the box. Every servo lead is neatly
run and labeled to the receiver area. It doesn’t get any better than this for
making installing your radio a snap!
All the plumbing is taken care of for you—even the
latest vent extension across the top of the tank to
prevent engine sagging in transition during 3-D!
August 2011 69
modification, the cowl provides ample
exposure of the top of the engine for good
airflow where it’s needed most.
The radio installation gives you two
choices, which provide a location variation
for the CG. One is for precision aerobatics, or
more forward CG; the other is for 3-D, or a
more aft CG. I ended up using the precision
setup with a slight modification.
Directions are to mount the ignition pack
on top of the motor box and run the lead to
the ignition/charge switch. I didn’t want a Li-
Poly buried where I couldn’t remove it to
charge, so I used the space behind the
intended choke servo mount for the ignition
battery. Now I can take all three Li-Polys out
for charging.
I have never had a Li-Poly problem. If you
handle these batteries properly, and more
important, charge them properly, they seem to
be almost foolproof. However, I still like to
take them out of the model to charge.
The other small thing I did differently was
with the suggested throttle-servo setup. I’m
sure that some modelers can make the 90°
bend on 4-40 rod for a keeper while the wire
is in the fuselage, as directed, but the “fun
factor” quickly left when I tried—and tried
and tried. So I soldered on a quick link and
moved ahead.
It works great, because you wouldn’t have
adjustment on that end anyway with a keeper.
And it’s fun to solder!
Final assembly of the radio is so easy.
Every servo lead and extension is clearly
marked and ready for you to plug into your
receiver. The wiring and fuel line are neatly
wire-tied to the inside of the fuselage in a
professional manner.
The first time I powered up the radio, I
had to make a single adjustment to one
servo—and a slight one at that. Amazing
accuracy!
The Spektrum DX8 has been a jewel to
use. Michael Ramsey has completed a review
of that radio in the June issue, so be sure to
check out that article.
Next I did the usual confirmations of
control-throw direction, set the rates and
exponential, confirmed the CG, and I was
finished. If you’re new to gas engines or have
08sig3.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 6/22/11 1:51 PM Page 69
lots of experience, you will be pleased with
the Evolution. It handles easily, draws fuel
well, and, as is any good engine, is
predictable.
The ignition works exactly as advertised
and has a great safety feature; it shuts down if
you don’t flip it for 90 seconds. Simply turn it
off and back on, and it’s ready to go again.
Give these power plants a great deal of
respect. Always ensure that the airplane is tied
down and that you have a friend hold for you.
Make sure the wings are mounted every
time you run the engine; they absorb an
amazing amount of vibration that the
fuselage won’t handle by itself.
Do run the power plant on the ground. I
suggest 15-20 minutes of low-speed
ground time with occasional throttle
increases and rpm variations. Include a
range check, as the manufacturer of your
radio suggests (with the engine on), and
you’re ready to fly!
The Evolution 80GX engine proved to be extremely easy to
handle. It draws fuel with the choke on. A couple of flips with the
ignition and choke on, and you’ll get a few “pops.” Open the
choke, set to idle, and it starts right up!
Static photos by Bill Pritchett; flight photos by Jay Smith
The Flyin’: I hope that by now you think the
SU-26MM would be easy for you to prepare
to fly—because it is. And it’s even easier to
fly! Mine took one click of up and two clicks
of right aileron, and that was it.
If you want to fly a larger gas airplane
(and this project would be perfect!),
remember to keep up the speed a bit around
the ground. Let it fly off of the ground on
takeoff; at close to half throttle, it will lift off
effortlessly after gaining ground speed. Keep
some speed on approach, and it’s a greased
landing every time.
The biggest difference between this Sukhoi
and your 60-size aircraft is that you can’t cut
the throttle at 10 feet and start pulling on the
elevator; let it fly!
On low rates, this airplane will fly similar to
a 60-size “second” airplane. On high rates, let
your imagination run wild. It has great powerto-
weight and will do anything you can do.
One of the things I like most about this
model is how easy it is to see. The color
scheme is perfect for my eyes, and others who
have seen it fly say the same; it looks great in
the air!
The flying report is short for a reason:
there’s not much to report. I have my Sukhoi
set up with a CG that calls for a slight push
when inverted, and I love it.
Do not be intimidated by the size of this
airplane. It has all the great flying
characteristics of the “bigger is better” concept
and none of the bad. Did I mention how good
it looks in the air?
Tips:
• Carburetor: If you are new to running gas
power plants with a Walbro carburetor, I have
some information for you that was not covered
in the instructions.
The fuel line from the clunk should go to
the black plastic inlet. The metal inlet on top is
an atmospheric vent, and the bottom inlet is
the pump diaphragm that is connected to the
crankcase tap.
• Fuel line: The plumbing on the clunk side is
cool—but unnecessary in my experience. I
removed close to a foot of that line and ran
straight into the motor box from the fill-line Tconnection.
• RTV: I like to use room-temperature
vulcanizing (RTV) silicone on hardware that I
don’t want to come off but will want to take
off sometime.
Loctite is great on engine mounts, propeller
bolts, etc. However, this will decompose in
time. Because you occasionally check those
anyway, it’s okay. Clean the bolts and put on
more Loctite.
I like to use RTV, or pure clear silicone, on
hardware for tasks such as mounting the cowl.
Vibration will not take out that adhesive, and
it won’t decompose.
On this project I made a small seal of
silicone over the former, below the back of the
cowl. I ran a bead, covered with Saran Wrap,
installed the cowl, and let it dry for 24 hours.
Now there’s no chance of vibration chafing
that large area!
I also like to protect the spark lead from
any contact with the cowl. I cut out an area
that gives the lead room to move a bit and line
it with fuel line; slice it on one side and attach
with RTV. It works great, looks great, and
truly protects that critical lead to the plug.
• Wing bolts: I learned this from the Pattern
community, and it’s a great way to go. Cut
doughnuts of 80-grit sandpaper the size of the
wing-bolt backs. Make a hole the size of your
bolt and, using that RTV you just bought, glue
them on.
Now when you install wing bolts, you’re
assured—with the 80-grit paper up against the
inside of the fuselage—that they will not
vibrate loose. MA
Bill Pritchett
[email protected]
Sources:
Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.horizonhobby.com
Jersey Modeler
(732) 240-0138
www.jerseymodeler.com
Spektrum
(800) 338-4639
www.spektrumrc.com
Tru-Turn
(281) 479-9600
www.truturn.com
Mejzlik:
Desert Aircraft
(520) 722-0607
www.desertaircraft.com
Loctite
(800) 624-7767
www.loctiteproducts.com