Many aeroModelers lack the
ability to solder. Why? Because we
are not required to do so often.
However, most of us who are
involved with electric-powered
models need to do so regularly,
especially when it comes to
connectors and other wiring.
Soldering is the fastest and most
reliable way to join metals. A
soldered joint is mechanically stable
and electrically efficient.
However, solders are incapable of
taking a great deal of stress or
movement. That, in addition to its
insulating properties, is why it is good
to use heat-shrink tubing over the
joint.
I ran into a problem soldering a
large stranded wire to the lug on a
Deans Ultra Connector and was
unsatisfied with the outcome, even
with my soldering skills. The real
problem was that there was no
mechanical connection between the
wire and connector lug. I had to hold
the wire to the lug while soldering,
which became problematic.
I thought of a way to make
soldering easier, with a good
mechanical connection to the wire
and lug so that anybody with lesser
soldering skills would be successful.
The little brass connector shown does
exactly that, providing a more
effective means of soldering to the
Ultra.
The material I chose for the
connector is 5/32-inch-OD brass
tubing, which seemed to be the
optimum size to fit the lug and
different-size wires encountered with
ESCs and batteries.
The only tools required for this
process are a vise, a Dremel cutoff
wheel, and a pair of needle-nose
pliers. Don’t get discouraged if the
first connector doesn’t make it. The
more you make, the easier it gets.
Simply follow my step-by-step
instructions.
There is probably a connector
similar to this one that you can
purchase, but my showing you how
to make one will save you the trouble
of looking.
Soldering Hints: To make a proper
solder connection, you need:
1. A source of heat.
2. Clean metal surfaces to be
joined.
3. A suitable grade of solder.
4. Flux.
Rosin-core solder with flux
impregnated in the core is suitable
for most electrical applications. You
rarely need to use additional flux
with rosin-core solder.
Make sure that the items to be
soldered are clean. Make a good
mechanical connection by wrapping
wires around each piece or around a
terminal or captured in a lug.
When applying heat, do not solder
directly at the tip. A small amount of
solder on the tip when you begin will
help carry the heat from the iron to
the joint. Heat the base metal so it
becomes sufficiently hot to melt the
solder and flow it into the joint.
When you have applied solder to
the connection, slide the iron away to
leave the joint neat. Avoid using too
much heat, and don’t apply more
solder than needed. It is advisable to
pretin components before soldering—
especially stranded wire.
I hope that my thoughts on this subject
will steer you in the right direction and
that you find this little connector to be
beneficial. It will certainly make life
easier when it comes time to solder
wires on the Ultra.
Happy soldering! MA
Jerry Smith
[email protected]
Sources:
W.S. Deans Co.
(714) 828-6494
www.wsdeans.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/10
Page Numbers: 42,43,44
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/10
Page Numbers: 42,43,44
Many aeroModelers lack the
ability to solder. Why? Because we
are not required to do so often.
However, most of us who are
involved with electric-powered
models need to do so regularly,
especially when it comes to
connectors and other wiring.
Soldering is the fastest and most
reliable way to join metals. A
soldered joint is mechanically stable
and electrically efficient.
However, solders are incapable of
taking a great deal of stress or
movement. That, in addition to its
insulating properties, is why it is good
to use heat-shrink tubing over the
joint.
I ran into a problem soldering a
large stranded wire to the lug on a
Deans Ultra Connector and was
unsatisfied with the outcome, even
with my soldering skills. The real
problem was that there was no
mechanical connection between the
wire and connector lug. I had to hold
the wire to the lug while soldering,
which became problematic.
I thought of a way to make
soldering easier, with a good
mechanical connection to the wire
and lug so that anybody with lesser
soldering skills would be successful.
The little brass connector shown does
exactly that, providing a more
effective means of soldering to the
Ultra.
The material I chose for the
connector is 5/32-inch-OD brass
tubing, which seemed to be the
optimum size to fit the lug and
different-size wires encountered with
ESCs and batteries.
The only tools required for this
process are a vise, a Dremel cutoff
wheel, and a pair of needle-nose
pliers. Don’t get discouraged if the
first connector doesn’t make it. The
more you make, the easier it gets.
Simply follow my step-by-step
instructions.
There is probably a connector
similar to this one that you can
purchase, but my showing you how
to make one will save you the trouble
of looking.
Soldering Hints: To make a proper
solder connection, you need:
1. A source of heat.
2. Clean metal surfaces to be
joined.
3. A suitable grade of solder.
4. Flux.
Rosin-core solder with flux
impregnated in the core is suitable
for most electrical applications. You
rarely need to use additional flux
with rosin-core solder.
Make sure that the items to be
soldered are clean. Make a good
mechanical connection by wrapping
wires around each piece or around a
terminal or captured in a lug.
When applying heat, do not solder
directly at the tip. A small amount of
solder on the tip when you begin will
help carry the heat from the iron to
the joint. Heat the base metal so it
becomes sufficiently hot to melt the
solder and flow it into the joint.
When you have applied solder to
the connection, slide the iron away to
leave the joint neat. Avoid using too
much heat, and don’t apply more
solder than needed. It is advisable to
pretin components before soldering—
especially stranded wire.
I hope that my thoughts on this subject
will steer you in the right direction and
that you find this little connector to be
beneficial. It will certainly make life
easier when it comes time to solder
wires on the Ultra.
Happy soldering! MA
Jerry Smith
[email protected]
Sources:
W.S. Deans Co.
(714) 828-6494
www.wsdeans.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/10
Page Numbers: 42,43,44
Many aeroModelers lack the
ability to solder. Why? Because we
are not required to do so often.
However, most of us who are
involved with electric-powered
models need to do so regularly,
especially when it comes to
connectors and other wiring.
Soldering is the fastest and most
reliable way to join metals. A
soldered joint is mechanically stable
and electrically efficient.
However, solders are incapable of
taking a great deal of stress or
movement. That, in addition to its
insulating properties, is why it is good
to use heat-shrink tubing over the
joint.
I ran into a problem soldering a
large stranded wire to the lug on a
Deans Ultra Connector and was
unsatisfied with the outcome, even
with my soldering skills. The real
problem was that there was no
mechanical connection between the
wire and connector lug. I had to hold
the wire to the lug while soldering,
which became problematic.
I thought of a way to make
soldering easier, with a good
mechanical connection to the wire
and lug so that anybody with lesser
soldering skills would be successful.
The little brass connector shown does
exactly that, providing a more
effective means of soldering to the
Ultra.
The material I chose for the
connector is 5/32-inch-OD brass
tubing, which seemed to be the
optimum size to fit the lug and
different-size wires encountered with
ESCs and batteries.
The only tools required for this
process are a vise, a Dremel cutoff
wheel, and a pair of needle-nose
pliers. Don’t get discouraged if the
first connector doesn’t make it. The
more you make, the easier it gets.
Simply follow my step-by-step
instructions.
There is probably a connector
similar to this one that you can
purchase, but my showing you how
to make one will save you the trouble
of looking.
Soldering Hints: To make a proper
solder connection, you need:
1. A source of heat.
2. Clean metal surfaces to be
joined.
3. A suitable grade of solder.
4. Flux.
Rosin-core solder with flux
impregnated in the core is suitable
for most electrical applications. You
rarely need to use additional flux
with rosin-core solder.
Make sure that the items to be
soldered are clean. Make a good
mechanical connection by wrapping
wires around each piece or around a
terminal or captured in a lug.
When applying heat, do not solder
directly at the tip. A small amount of
solder on the tip when you begin will
help carry the heat from the iron to
the joint. Heat the base metal so it
becomes sufficiently hot to melt the
solder and flow it into the joint.
When you have applied solder to
the connection, slide the iron away to
leave the joint neat. Avoid using too
much heat, and don’t apply more
solder than needed. It is advisable to
pretin components before soldering—
especially stranded wire.
I hope that my thoughts on this subject
will steer you in the right direction and
that you find this little connector to be
beneficial. It will certainly make life
easier when it comes time to solder
wires on the Ultra.
Happy soldering! MA
Jerry Smith
[email protected]
Sources:
W.S. Deans Co.
(714) 828-6494
www.wsdeans.com