If you look at the photos, you can see that
almost all there is to assembling the fuselage is
placing the gear in the appropriate position and
closing the structure. This step is fairly
straightforward, but it will pay in the long run if
you temporarily attach the gear with tape and
close the fuselage sides to make sure
everything fits and the control horns and
linkages clear one another.
The modelers I’ve talked to who had trouble
skipped this step and then had to cut into a
glued fuselage to fix it. A bit of planning will
save you a great deal of time and aggravation.
I used double-stick tape to attach the internal
components once I was satisfied that
everything fit the way I wanted it to and the CG
was where it needed to be. Installing the inner
equipment is the most time-consuming part of
the assembly next to installing the decals.
Once you glue
the fuselage
together, you have to
live with your
decision. Go
carefully and get it
right the first time.
The instruction
manual does a good
job of laying out the
locations, and I did
my stock P-51
according to its
plans.
I decided to hopup
the P-40 with a
Medusa 12mm
motor and
GREG GIMLICK
Plane Talk: Cox Micro Warbirds
These
diminutive
fighters yield
big fun!
Above: The unmodified P-51 in flight. The stock models perform
great in calm air conditions and have adequate power.
Right: Greg hopped up the P-40 by installing a Medusa MR-012-030-
5300 motor, a Castle Creations Thunderbird-9 controller, and a
HiModel 740 mAh Li-Poly pack. So equipped, it tears up the sky!
58 MODEL AVIATION
The P-51 and the P-40. This series also offers an F4U Corsair, a
Spitfire Mark IV, and a P-47 Thunderbolt. Supplied decal markings
add scale appeal.
COX HOBBY Distributors has been around
for as long as I can remember; my first “real”
CL model was a plastic Cox P-40 with an .049
engine. I bounced it off everything while trying
to learn to fly.
Cox has gone through some transitions
through the years and has emerged as a
premier provider of great airplanes. The $20
line of Micro Warbirds continues that tradition.
The hardest decision you’ll have to make is
which one to buy—or which two to buy if
you’re like me and can’t resist. The series
includes the F4U Corsair, P-40 Warhawk, P-
51 Mustang, Spitfire Mark IV, and P-47
Thunderbolt. I chose the Mustang for a stock
project and the P-40 to hop-up to see what it
could do.
Let’s take a look.
Opening the Box: Each model shakes out of
the package looking like it’s almost ready to
fly—and it is. You’ll be finished with your
airplane in approximately three hours.
Everything is nicely protected from damage
and organized in bags according to assembly
steps.
The foam aircraft bodies are already
painted, and the water-slide decals are ready
for application with just a bit of cutting and
trimming. All hardware is provided for
linkages, and a prewired charge plate and cord
is included for the stock version.
Assembly: This process begins with
constructing the tail feathers. The elevator
joiner is prebent, and the instructions
accurately describe all the locations for the
control horns. Tape is provided for hinging,
and hints are given for how to best accomplish
it. Follow those, and you can’t go wrong.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:01 PM Page 58
April 2008 59
Photos by the author
Components for the hopped-up P-40: a
GWS 3 x 3 propeller, a Medusa 12mm
motor, and a Thunderbird-9 ESC.
There isn’t much to do after opening the box. Assembly takes an average of three hours.
All the painting is done for you, and all required hardware is included.
The stock equipment is laid out in the P-51 per the instructions.
Everything fit well.
The stock motor and Pixie ESC are soldered to the supplied
charge/on/off plate.
Greg crafted a custom plywood firewall on which to mount the
Medusa motor. His retrofit looked stock when finished!
These little warbirds are engaging
and exciting from any angle. Give
one—or two—a try!
The hopped-up P-40 scoots and is flyable outdoors, even on
moderately windy days.
These models are naturals for fun
pylon-racing events. Perhaps they
would make good club projects.
The distinctive Mustang belly scoop is
evident from this vantage point.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:02 PM Page 59
Although having the CG slightly forward is
certainly better than having it aft, you’ll find
that there is a sweet spot that will let the stock
setup fly the model nicely. There isn’t enough
extra power to compensate for a grossly noseheavy
condition.
The fun really begins with the hopped-up
P-40! The Medusa motor and 7.4-volt Li-Poly
pack light up the model, and it flies with
surprising authority. No hard toss is required
and climbs are significantly improved, as are
all aspects of performance.
Any maneuver requiring only rudder and
elevator is possible, and the only warning I
have is to watch how quickly the airplane gets
tiny in the distance. The Warhawk’s speed is
significantly faster than the Mustang’s, and
they get small in a hurry.
Flight times are approximately 10 minutes
with throttle management and the 740 mAh
pack.
Where to begin? These are great little
airplanes whether you’re flying the stock
version or hopping one up. I don’t know
where else you can get this kind of fun for
$20, and Cox has a group of winners.
The Micro Warbird series’ design is
simplicity at its finest, and the results are
beyond satisfactory. At the NEAT Fair I
watched stock powered pylon racing, and
guys who were flying $1,500 airplanes earlier
in the day were giggling like schoolboys
flying their $20 warbirds.
The P-40 is certainly more fun to fly
because power and duration are greatly
improved. The modification is relatively
inexpensive; the Medusa motor sells for $40,
and the Thunderbird controller is $30.
Whether you choose to fly the stock motor
or hop one up, you should upgrade the motor
battery to get better power and duration. A
7.4-volt Li-Poly pack will add no weight and
will triple your model’s duration with less
voltage drop. You should devise a hatch to
gain access to the battery if you install a Li-
Poly pack.
I also doubled the amount of control throw
for the rudder and increased the throw on the
elevator for a livelier airplane.
The person at Cox who designed and
marketed this group of diminutive warbirds is
a genius! MA
Greg Gimlick
[email protected]
60 MODEL AVIATION
Stock Power System
Motor: Brushed Ferrite 130
ESC: Pixie-10
Battery: Cox 7.2-volt, 220 mAh NiMH,
2/3AAA pack (item 5501)
Propeller: Cox 4 x 2
Other equipment: Cox on/off/charge
plate included with kit
Hopped-Up Power System
Motor: Brushless Medusa MR-012-030-
5300 (Kv, 5300; Io, 0.43A; Rm, 0.180)
ESC: Thunderbird-9
Battery: HiModel 20C, 2S, 740 mAh Li-
Poly pack
Propeller: GWS 3 x 3
Pluses and Minuses
+•
Easy and fast assembly with great parts
fit
• Well-illustrated instruction manual
• Included motor and charge plate
• Prebent elevator joiners and complete
hardware package
• Extensive decals and nice paint jobs -•
Fuselage is glued together, making
components inaccessible when complete.
• Short flights with stock 220 mAh battery
• Decals don’t stick well and end up
peeling off.
(Manufacturer’s note: We list on the
outside of the box under “Additional Items
Required” Testors 2145 decal solvent and
refer to its use in the instruction manual to
get the water-slide decals to lay down
smoothly and stay put ... Estes and therefore
Cox has a great deal of experience with
water-slide decals and this experience was
not overlooked when developing the MW
series.)
Specifications
Type: Sport scale
Wingspan: 20 inches
Advertised weight: 5 ounces
Ready-to-fly weight: 5 ounces
Length: 17 inches
Radio required: Three channels
Radio used: Multiplex Royal Evo 9,
Berg Microstamp four-channel receiver,
Cox CS-6 servos
Street Price: $20
Construction material: Foam
Thunderbird-9 ESC using a 740 mAh Li-Poly
pack. This setup was significantly lighter than
the stock gear, so I had to move things forward
a bit to get the CG correct. I still ended up
adding 1/4 ounce of lead in the nose.
I’ve since obtained a spinner that will fit the
Medusa motor. That enabled me to remove the
lead and still balance the model properly. I had
to make a small firewall to which to bolt the
motor. I used a small piece of plywood and cut
slots in the two sides for it to fit.
When it comes time to glue the two fuselage
sides together, you need to decide how you
want to approach it. The manual instructs you to
adhere the parts with any foam-safe glue, but I
chose to use clear hinge tape. This will make it
easier for me to get inside if I need to change a
component. I can slice the tape with an X-Acto
knife and have access to everything.
I have a word of warning, though. You will
damage the finish if you try to peel the tape off
of the painted-foam fuselage. I haven’t needed
to go inside, so I don’t think you’ll go wrong if
you decide to glue the fuselage. You can cut a
hatch in the side if you need to later.
Snap the wings in place and then glue the
tail feathers on, taking all the usual precautions
for alignment, etc.
I hope you remembered to install the control
rods before you glued the fuselage together and
they’re sticking out the back, ready to be
attached to the elevator and rudder. Cox uses an
old tried-and-true method of adjusting the rods
and attaching them to the horns by using a bent
wire alongside the control wire, and they are
held together with shrink wrap and
cyanoacrylate glue.
Once you have assembled your warbird, you
can attach the decals and admire your work.
Flight Characteristics: The stock motor/
battery setup will fly the Mustang in an
extremely light breeze, but be sure to watch for
gusty conditions. Launching will require a fairly
good toss, and you must exercise patience to
allow the airplane time to “get on the step”
before pulling up and climbing.
A climb of roughly 20° is normal for the
stock setup, so don’t get impatient. The model
flies comfortably, but it requires a slight dive to
gain speed for loops.
These airplanes may appeal to beginners,
but they are not overpowered and must be flown
at all times. They will stall abruptly if slowed
too much in a turn, and a beginner will probably
not be able to recover. Fortunately these little
gems will probably just bounce and be flyable
again.
The CG placement is critical, and it makes a
lot of difference in the warbird’s performance.
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Cox Hobby Distributors
Box 274
Penrose CO 81240
(719) 372-9876
(877) 269-9235 (toll-free order line)
www.coxmodels.com
Items Used in Review:
3 x 3 propeller:
GWS
(909) 594-4979
www.gws.com.tw/English/english.htm
740 mAh Li-Poly pack:
HiModel
Tel.: +86-532-66626888
www.himodel.com
Berg 4L Microstamp receiver:
Castle Creations
(913) 390-6939
www.castlecreations.com
MR-012-030-5300 brushless motor:
Medusa Research, Inc.
(508) 675-0200 (Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5
p.m. Eastern Standard Time, excluding
business holidays)
www.medusaproducts.com
Pixie-10 ESC:
Castle Creations
Royal Evo 9 radio system:
Multiplex Modelsport USA
(858) 748-6948
www.multiplexusa.com
Thunderbird-9 ESC:
Castle Creations
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:04 PM Page 60
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 58,59,60
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 58,59,60
If you look at the photos, you can see that
almost all there is to assembling the fuselage is
placing the gear in the appropriate position and
closing the structure. This step is fairly
straightforward, but it will pay in the long run if
you temporarily attach the gear with tape and
close the fuselage sides to make sure
everything fits and the control horns and
linkages clear one another.
The modelers I’ve talked to who had trouble
skipped this step and then had to cut into a
glued fuselage to fix it. A bit of planning will
save you a great deal of time and aggravation.
I used double-stick tape to attach the internal
components once I was satisfied that
everything fit the way I wanted it to and the CG
was where it needed to be. Installing the inner
equipment is the most time-consuming part of
the assembly next to installing the decals.
Once you glue
the fuselage
together, you have to
live with your
decision. Go
carefully and get it
right the first time.
The instruction
manual does a good
job of laying out the
locations, and I did
my stock P-51
according to its
plans.
I decided to hopup
the P-40 with a
Medusa 12mm
motor and
GREG GIMLICK
Plane Talk: Cox Micro Warbirds
These
diminutive
fighters yield
big fun!
Above: The unmodified P-51 in flight. The stock models perform
great in calm air conditions and have adequate power.
Right: Greg hopped up the P-40 by installing a Medusa MR-012-030-
5300 motor, a Castle Creations Thunderbird-9 controller, and a
HiModel 740 mAh Li-Poly pack. So equipped, it tears up the sky!
58 MODEL AVIATION
The P-51 and the P-40. This series also offers an F4U Corsair, a
Spitfire Mark IV, and a P-47 Thunderbolt. Supplied decal markings
add scale appeal.
COX HOBBY Distributors has been around
for as long as I can remember; my first “real”
CL model was a plastic Cox P-40 with an .049
engine. I bounced it off everything while trying
to learn to fly.
Cox has gone through some transitions
through the years and has emerged as a
premier provider of great airplanes. The $20
line of Micro Warbirds continues that tradition.
The hardest decision you’ll have to make is
which one to buy—or which two to buy if
you’re like me and can’t resist. The series
includes the F4U Corsair, P-40 Warhawk, P-
51 Mustang, Spitfire Mark IV, and P-47
Thunderbolt. I chose the Mustang for a stock
project and the P-40 to hop-up to see what it
could do.
Let’s take a look.
Opening the Box: Each model shakes out of
the package looking like it’s almost ready to
fly—and it is. You’ll be finished with your
airplane in approximately three hours.
Everything is nicely protected from damage
and organized in bags according to assembly
steps.
The foam aircraft bodies are already
painted, and the water-slide decals are ready
for application with just a bit of cutting and
trimming. All hardware is provided for
linkages, and a prewired charge plate and cord
is included for the stock version.
Assembly: This process begins with
constructing the tail feathers. The elevator
joiner is prebent, and the instructions
accurately describe all the locations for the
control horns. Tape is provided for hinging,
and hints are given for how to best accomplish
it. Follow those, and you can’t go wrong.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:01 PM Page 58
April 2008 59
Photos by the author
Components for the hopped-up P-40: a
GWS 3 x 3 propeller, a Medusa 12mm
motor, and a Thunderbird-9 ESC.
There isn’t much to do after opening the box. Assembly takes an average of three hours.
All the painting is done for you, and all required hardware is included.
The stock equipment is laid out in the P-51 per the instructions.
Everything fit well.
The stock motor and Pixie ESC are soldered to the supplied
charge/on/off plate.
Greg crafted a custom plywood firewall on which to mount the
Medusa motor. His retrofit looked stock when finished!
These little warbirds are engaging
and exciting from any angle. Give
one—or two—a try!
The hopped-up P-40 scoots and is flyable outdoors, even on
moderately windy days.
These models are naturals for fun
pylon-racing events. Perhaps they
would make good club projects.
The distinctive Mustang belly scoop is
evident from this vantage point.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:02 PM Page 59
Although having the CG slightly forward is
certainly better than having it aft, you’ll find
that there is a sweet spot that will let the stock
setup fly the model nicely. There isn’t enough
extra power to compensate for a grossly noseheavy
condition.
The fun really begins with the hopped-up
P-40! The Medusa motor and 7.4-volt Li-Poly
pack light up the model, and it flies with
surprising authority. No hard toss is required
and climbs are significantly improved, as are
all aspects of performance.
Any maneuver requiring only rudder and
elevator is possible, and the only warning I
have is to watch how quickly the airplane gets
tiny in the distance. The Warhawk’s speed is
significantly faster than the Mustang’s, and
they get small in a hurry.
Flight times are approximately 10 minutes
with throttle management and the 740 mAh
pack.
Where to begin? These are great little
airplanes whether you’re flying the stock
version or hopping one up. I don’t know
where else you can get this kind of fun for
$20, and Cox has a group of winners.
The Micro Warbird series’ design is
simplicity at its finest, and the results are
beyond satisfactory. At the NEAT Fair I
watched stock powered pylon racing, and
guys who were flying $1,500 airplanes earlier
in the day were giggling like schoolboys
flying their $20 warbirds.
The P-40 is certainly more fun to fly
because power and duration are greatly
improved. The modification is relatively
inexpensive; the Medusa motor sells for $40,
and the Thunderbird controller is $30.
Whether you choose to fly the stock motor
or hop one up, you should upgrade the motor
battery to get better power and duration. A
7.4-volt Li-Poly pack will add no weight and
will triple your model’s duration with less
voltage drop. You should devise a hatch to
gain access to the battery if you install a Li-
Poly pack.
I also doubled the amount of control throw
for the rudder and increased the throw on the
elevator for a livelier airplane.
The person at Cox who designed and
marketed this group of diminutive warbirds is
a genius! MA
Greg Gimlick
[email protected]
60 MODEL AVIATION
Stock Power System
Motor: Brushed Ferrite 130
ESC: Pixie-10
Battery: Cox 7.2-volt, 220 mAh NiMH,
2/3AAA pack (item 5501)
Propeller: Cox 4 x 2
Other equipment: Cox on/off/charge
plate included with kit
Hopped-Up Power System
Motor: Brushless Medusa MR-012-030-
5300 (Kv, 5300; Io, 0.43A; Rm, 0.180)
ESC: Thunderbird-9
Battery: HiModel 20C, 2S, 740 mAh Li-
Poly pack
Propeller: GWS 3 x 3
Pluses and Minuses
+•
Easy and fast assembly with great parts
fit
• Well-illustrated instruction manual
• Included motor and charge plate
• Prebent elevator joiners and complete
hardware package
• Extensive decals and nice paint jobs -•
Fuselage is glued together, making
components inaccessible when complete.
• Short flights with stock 220 mAh battery
• Decals don’t stick well and end up
peeling off.
(Manufacturer’s note: We list on the
outside of the box under “Additional Items
Required” Testors 2145 decal solvent and
refer to its use in the instruction manual to
get the water-slide decals to lay down
smoothly and stay put ... Estes and therefore
Cox has a great deal of experience with
water-slide decals and this experience was
not overlooked when developing the MW
series.)
Specifications
Type: Sport scale
Wingspan: 20 inches
Advertised weight: 5 ounces
Ready-to-fly weight: 5 ounces
Length: 17 inches
Radio required: Three channels
Radio used: Multiplex Royal Evo 9,
Berg Microstamp four-channel receiver,
Cox CS-6 servos
Street Price: $20
Construction material: Foam
Thunderbird-9 ESC using a 740 mAh Li-Poly
pack. This setup was significantly lighter than
the stock gear, so I had to move things forward
a bit to get the CG correct. I still ended up
adding 1/4 ounce of lead in the nose.
I’ve since obtained a spinner that will fit the
Medusa motor. That enabled me to remove the
lead and still balance the model properly. I had
to make a small firewall to which to bolt the
motor. I used a small piece of plywood and cut
slots in the two sides for it to fit.
When it comes time to glue the two fuselage
sides together, you need to decide how you
want to approach it. The manual instructs you to
adhere the parts with any foam-safe glue, but I
chose to use clear hinge tape. This will make it
easier for me to get inside if I need to change a
component. I can slice the tape with an X-Acto
knife and have access to everything.
I have a word of warning, though. You will
damage the finish if you try to peel the tape off
of the painted-foam fuselage. I haven’t needed
to go inside, so I don’t think you’ll go wrong if
you decide to glue the fuselage. You can cut a
hatch in the side if you need to later.
Snap the wings in place and then glue the
tail feathers on, taking all the usual precautions
for alignment, etc.
I hope you remembered to install the control
rods before you glued the fuselage together and
they’re sticking out the back, ready to be
attached to the elevator and rudder. Cox uses an
old tried-and-true method of adjusting the rods
and attaching them to the horns by using a bent
wire alongside the control wire, and they are
held together with shrink wrap and
cyanoacrylate glue.
Once you have assembled your warbird, you
can attach the decals and admire your work.
Flight Characteristics: The stock motor/
battery setup will fly the Mustang in an
extremely light breeze, but be sure to watch for
gusty conditions. Launching will require a fairly
good toss, and you must exercise patience to
allow the airplane time to “get on the step”
before pulling up and climbing.
A climb of roughly 20° is normal for the
stock setup, so don’t get impatient. The model
flies comfortably, but it requires a slight dive to
gain speed for loops.
These airplanes may appeal to beginners,
but they are not overpowered and must be flown
at all times. They will stall abruptly if slowed
too much in a turn, and a beginner will probably
not be able to recover. Fortunately these little
gems will probably just bounce and be flyable
again.
The CG placement is critical, and it makes a
lot of difference in the warbird’s performance.
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Cox Hobby Distributors
Box 274
Penrose CO 81240
(719) 372-9876
(877) 269-9235 (toll-free order line)
www.coxmodels.com
Items Used in Review:
3 x 3 propeller:
GWS
(909) 594-4979
www.gws.com.tw/English/english.htm
740 mAh Li-Poly pack:
HiModel
Tel.: +86-532-66626888
www.himodel.com
Berg 4L Microstamp receiver:
Castle Creations
(913) 390-6939
www.castlecreations.com
MR-012-030-5300 brushless motor:
Medusa Research, Inc.
(508) 675-0200 (Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5
p.m. Eastern Standard Time, excluding
business holidays)
www.medusaproducts.com
Pixie-10 ESC:
Castle Creations
Royal Evo 9 radio system:
Multiplex Modelsport USA
(858) 748-6948
www.multiplexusa.com
Thunderbird-9 ESC:
Castle Creations
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:04 PM Page 60
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 58,59,60
If you look at the photos, you can see that
almost all there is to assembling the fuselage is
placing the gear in the appropriate position and
closing the structure. This step is fairly
straightforward, but it will pay in the long run if
you temporarily attach the gear with tape and
close the fuselage sides to make sure
everything fits and the control horns and
linkages clear one another.
The modelers I’ve talked to who had trouble
skipped this step and then had to cut into a
glued fuselage to fix it. A bit of planning will
save you a great deal of time and aggravation.
I used double-stick tape to attach the internal
components once I was satisfied that
everything fit the way I wanted it to and the CG
was where it needed to be. Installing the inner
equipment is the most time-consuming part of
the assembly next to installing the decals.
Once you glue
the fuselage
together, you have to
live with your
decision. Go
carefully and get it
right the first time.
The instruction
manual does a good
job of laying out the
locations, and I did
my stock P-51
according to its
plans.
I decided to hopup
the P-40 with a
Medusa 12mm
motor and
GREG GIMLICK
Plane Talk: Cox Micro Warbirds
These
diminutive
fighters yield
big fun!
Above: The unmodified P-51 in flight. The stock models perform
great in calm air conditions and have adequate power.
Right: Greg hopped up the P-40 by installing a Medusa MR-012-030-
5300 motor, a Castle Creations Thunderbird-9 controller, and a
HiModel 740 mAh Li-Poly pack. So equipped, it tears up the sky!
58 MODEL AVIATION
The P-51 and the P-40. This series also offers an F4U Corsair, a
Spitfire Mark IV, and a P-47 Thunderbolt. Supplied decal markings
add scale appeal.
COX HOBBY Distributors has been around
for as long as I can remember; my first “real”
CL model was a plastic Cox P-40 with an .049
engine. I bounced it off everything while trying
to learn to fly.
Cox has gone through some transitions
through the years and has emerged as a
premier provider of great airplanes. The $20
line of Micro Warbirds continues that tradition.
The hardest decision you’ll have to make is
which one to buy—or which two to buy if
you’re like me and can’t resist. The series
includes the F4U Corsair, P-40 Warhawk, P-
51 Mustang, Spitfire Mark IV, and P-47
Thunderbolt. I chose the Mustang for a stock
project and the P-40 to hop-up to see what it
could do.
Let’s take a look.
Opening the Box: Each model shakes out of
the package looking like it’s almost ready to
fly—and it is. You’ll be finished with your
airplane in approximately three hours.
Everything is nicely protected from damage
and organized in bags according to assembly
steps.
The foam aircraft bodies are already
painted, and the water-slide decals are ready
for application with just a bit of cutting and
trimming. All hardware is provided for
linkages, and a prewired charge plate and cord
is included for the stock version.
Assembly: This process begins with
constructing the tail feathers. The elevator
joiner is prebent, and the instructions
accurately describe all the locations for the
control horns. Tape is provided for hinging,
and hints are given for how to best accomplish
it. Follow those, and you can’t go wrong.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:01 PM Page 58
April 2008 59
Photos by the author
Components for the hopped-up P-40: a
GWS 3 x 3 propeller, a Medusa 12mm
motor, and a Thunderbird-9 ESC.
There isn’t much to do after opening the box. Assembly takes an average of three hours.
All the painting is done for you, and all required hardware is included.
The stock equipment is laid out in the P-51 per the instructions.
Everything fit well.
The stock motor and Pixie ESC are soldered to the supplied
charge/on/off plate.
Greg crafted a custom plywood firewall on which to mount the
Medusa motor. His retrofit looked stock when finished!
These little warbirds are engaging
and exciting from any angle. Give
one—or two—a try!
The hopped-up P-40 scoots and is flyable outdoors, even on
moderately windy days.
These models are naturals for fun
pylon-racing events. Perhaps they
would make good club projects.
The distinctive Mustang belly scoop is
evident from this vantage point.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:02 PM Page 59
Although having the CG slightly forward is
certainly better than having it aft, you’ll find
that there is a sweet spot that will let the stock
setup fly the model nicely. There isn’t enough
extra power to compensate for a grossly noseheavy
condition.
The fun really begins with the hopped-up
P-40! The Medusa motor and 7.4-volt Li-Poly
pack light up the model, and it flies with
surprising authority. No hard toss is required
and climbs are significantly improved, as are
all aspects of performance.
Any maneuver requiring only rudder and
elevator is possible, and the only warning I
have is to watch how quickly the airplane gets
tiny in the distance. The Warhawk’s speed is
significantly faster than the Mustang’s, and
they get small in a hurry.
Flight times are approximately 10 minutes
with throttle management and the 740 mAh
pack.
Where to begin? These are great little
airplanes whether you’re flying the stock
version or hopping one up. I don’t know
where else you can get this kind of fun for
$20, and Cox has a group of winners.
The Micro Warbird series’ design is
simplicity at its finest, and the results are
beyond satisfactory. At the NEAT Fair I
watched stock powered pylon racing, and
guys who were flying $1,500 airplanes earlier
in the day were giggling like schoolboys
flying their $20 warbirds.
The P-40 is certainly more fun to fly
because power and duration are greatly
improved. The modification is relatively
inexpensive; the Medusa motor sells for $40,
and the Thunderbird controller is $30.
Whether you choose to fly the stock motor
or hop one up, you should upgrade the motor
battery to get better power and duration. A
7.4-volt Li-Poly pack will add no weight and
will triple your model’s duration with less
voltage drop. You should devise a hatch to
gain access to the battery if you install a Li-
Poly pack.
I also doubled the amount of control throw
for the rudder and increased the throw on the
elevator for a livelier airplane.
The person at Cox who designed and
marketed this group of diminutive warbirds is
a genius! MA
Greg Gimlick
[email protected]
60 MODEL AVIATION
Stock Power System
Motor: Brushed Ferrite 130
ESC: Pixie-10
Battery: Cox 7.2-volt, 220 mAh NiMH,
2/3AAA pack (item 5501)
Propeller: Cox 4 x 2
Other equipment: Cox on/off/charge
plate included with kit
Hopped-Up Power System
Motor: Brushless Medusa MR-012-030-
5300 (Kv, 5300; Io, 0.43A; Rm, 0.180)
ESC: Thunderbird-9
Battery: HiModel 20C, 2S, 740 mAh Li-
Poly pack
Propeller: GWS 3 x 3
Pluses and Minuses
+•
Easy and fast assembly with great parts
fit
• Well-illustrated instruction manual
• Included motor and charge plate
• Prebent elevator joiners and complete
hardware package
• Extensive decals and nice paint jobs -•
Fuselage is glued together, making
components inaccessible when complete.
• Short flights with stock 220 mAh battery
• Decals don’t stick well and end up
peeling off.
(Manufacturer’s note: We list on the
outside of the box under “Additional Items
Required” Testors 2145 decal solvent and
refer to its use in the instruction manual to
get the water-slide decals to lay down
smoothly and stay put ... Estes and therefore
Cox has a great deal of experience with
water-slide decals and this experience was
not overlooked when developing the MW
series.)
Specifications
Type: Sport scale
Wingspan: 20 inches
Advertised weight: 5 ounces
Ready-to-fly weight: 5 ounces
Length: 17 inches
Radio required: Three channels
Radio used: Multiplex Royal Evo 9,
Berg Microstamp four-channel receiver,
Cox CS-6 servos
Street Price: $20
Construction material: Foam
Thunderbird-9 ESC using a 740 mAh Li-Poly
pack. This setup was significantly lighter than
the stock gear, so I had to move things forward
a bit to get the CG correct. I still ended up
adding 1/4 ounce of lead in the nose.
I’ve since obtained a spinner that will fit the
Medusa motor. That enabled me to remove the
lead and still balance the model properly. I had
to make a small firewall to which to bolt the
motor. I used a small piece of plywood and cut
slots in the two sides for it to fit.
When it comes time to glue the two fuselage
sides together, you need to decide how you
want to approach it. The manual instructs you to
adhere the parts with any foam-safe glue, but I
chose to use clear hinge tape. This will make it
easier for me to get inside if I need to change a
component. I can slice the tape with an X-Acto
knife and have access to everything.
I have a word of warning, though. You will
damage the finish if you try to peel the tape off
of the painted-foam fuselage. I haven’t needed
to go inside, so I don’t think you’ll go wrong if
you decide to glue the fuselage. You can cut a
hatch in the side if you need to later.
Snap the wings in place and then glue the
tail feathers on, taking all the usual precautions
for alignment, etc.
I hope you remembered to install the control
rods before you glued the fuselage together and
they’re sticking out the back, ready to be
attached to the elevator and rudder. Cox uses an
old tried-and-true method of adjusting the rods
and attaching them to the horns by using a bent
wire alongside the control wire, and they are
held together with shrink wrap and
cyanoacrylate glue.
Once you have assembled your warbird, you
can attach the decals and admire your work.
Flight Characteristics: The stock motor/
battery setup will fly the Mustang in an
extremely light breeze, but be sure to watch for
gusty conditions. Launching will require a fairly
good toss, and you must exercise patience to
allow the airplane time to “get on the step”
before pulling up and climbing.
A climb of roughly 20° is normal for the
stock setup, so don’t get impatient. The model
flies comfortably, but it requires a slight dive to
gain speed for loops.
These airplanes may appeal to beginners,
but they are not overpowered and must be flown
at all times. They will stall abruptly if slowed
too much in a turn, and a beginner will probably
not be able to recover. Fortunately these little
gems will probably just bounce and be flyable
again.
The CG placement is critical, and it makes a
lot of difference in the warbird’s performance.
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Cox Hobby Distributors
Box 274
Penrose CO 81240
(719) 372-9876
(877) 269-9235 (toll-free order line)
www.coxmodels.com
Items Used in Review:
3 x 3 propeller:
GWS
(909) 594-4979
www.gws.com.tw/English/english.htm
740 mAh Li-Poly pack:
HiModel
Tel.: +86-532-66626888
www.himodel.com
Berg 4L Microstamp receiver:
Castle Creations
(913) 390-6939
www.castlecreations.com
MR-012-030-5300 brushless motor:
Medusa Research, Inc.
(508) 675-0200 (Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5
p.m. Eastern Standard Time, excluding
business holidays)
www.medusaproducts.com
Pixie-10 ESC:
Castle Creations
Royal Evo 9 radio system:
Multiplex Modelsport USA
(858) 748-6948
www.multiplexusa.com
Thunderbird-9 ESC:
Castle Creations
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