.THE GRUMMAN F6F Hellcat was the scourge of the Pacific
Theater in World War II. More of that type were constructed by the
dedicated workers in the famous Grumman Iron Works plant than
any other aircraft during the war—and in a shorter period of time.
With folding wings for aircraft-carrier use, flaps, retracts, and six
50-caliber machine guns, the versatile F6F was a formidable fighter
and gun platform. In addition to carriers, the Hellcat operated off
of island fields. The Jeep transporters,
which were smaller ships converted
to aircraft carriers, generally had
F4F Wildcats onboard; the larger
first-line carriers were equipped
with Hellcats.
There was such a surplus of
used and unused F6Fs after
WW II, that they were sent to
various National Guard units,
used for targets, and performed
target-towing duties.
The Hangar 9 Hellcat’s box
contains its various
subassemblies, which are divided
into specific sections of the
warbird. Looking at the photos on
the box cover, you might already
anticipate a great product.
Each part of the model is
carefully wrapped in plastic and
insulated for further protection of
the individual parts. When you open the bags, you will see the
fuselage side and the large star/bars marking with the red outline.
I thought the star/bars markings were too large for the fuselage
until I did a bit of research in a Squadron Signal book. Hangar 9
did its homework, and the model matches the documentation. You
can’t say that about many warbird ARFs.
I’ve been impressed with this company for selecting
full-scale aircraft to model; that
appeals more to us Scale modelers.
If you’re into that category of
competition, this ARF’s
realism will easily earn you
the 5 static points that are
available in Fun Scale or other
classes.
Be careful taking the
subassemblies out of the box;
restrictive clear tape is applied
everywhere, and with good
reason. It keeps the
components from banging
around inside the box and
getting damaged.
The fuselage comes in one
piece, along with a fiberglass
cowling and prepainted
canopy. Engine mounts are
supplied for a two-stroke .60,
which will fly this model with
ease. I examined the hardware and
Water-based paint from Wal-Mart’s craft department was used to
finish the Hangar 9 pilot. He needed trimmed to fit in the cockpit.
To ensure the model’s long life and that it
can handle engine vibration, reinforce the
firewall with extra epoxy in the joints.
Tru-Turn’s 11/4-inch spinner hub is a great
final touch to the front end of the Hellcat.
The propeller is an APC 16 x 8.
The stock fuel tank is a custom fit inside the F6F. Exchange the
silicone fuel lines, and it’s compatible with the gas engine.
Photos by the author
Even with the Zenoah G-20, the cowling is
virtually complete. The author painted the
wheel wells to match the white belly.
A Spektrum radio system proved to be the optimal system for the
F6F. A healthy 2300 mAh JR receiver pack sits under the cockpit.
The G-20 is a great engine choice for 60-size warbirds from
Hangar 9.
used most of what was supplied, including the hinges, wheels, dummy
engine, and various nuts and bolts.
Assembly: The wing comes in three panels. Preinstalled retracts are
mounted on a center panel. The outer two are where the aileron servos
will be located in a handy hatch on the underside of both the port and
starboard panel. (I couldn’t resist using the naval terminology
there.)
Don’t skimp on your Hellcat’s retract servo. Use the one
recommended, which is a JR NES-791 high-torque, low-profile,
metal-gear unit that includes a servo wheel with an inch between its
connectors.
Servos with plastic gears will work in this sort of
application. However, they will strip the servo gear teeth out
after only a few operations. You could be flying and find that
you’re unable to get the gear up or, even worse for the model,
you won’t be able to get the gear down.
After you’re sure you have the tiny quick connectors positioned,
add the setscrew to each one. Once I was finished installing the
quick connectors, I uninstalled them. With a sharp cutting tool, I
trimmed the ends of the retract pushrods approximately one-and-ahalf
inches. This should provide plenty of pushrod to properly
actuate the mechanics.
It’s a good idea to label each servo lead coming out of the wing
and the fuselage. To do so, I used a P-Touch label maker; I made an
“L Aileron,” a “R Aileron,” and a “Retract.” Label the other servo
leads the same way, and you’re set.
Test the retract landing gear now; it is a
bad idea to wait. If you need to make
adjustments, doing so is much easier before
adding the outer wing panels. I followed
the instructions but increased the width of
the open area in the wing for the retract
servo by roughly a half inch on each side
of the precut retract-servo location.
With the retracts complete, add the spar
material for each outer wing panel. I finishsanded
both spars so that they fit perfectly.
Use only 30-minute epoxy for this
assembly.
Before adding the wheel wells, which
fit into the wing under the retract
mechanism, you might want to paint them
white, to match the underside of the wing,
instead of leaving them gray. Pull the
aileron extensions through the panels
before completely sealing the wheel
openings.
The cockpit interior is prepainted black.
It has an instrument decal, which quickly
sticks to the front of the cockpit panel.
There is also a plastic headrest, which
you need to trim. (I used a standard pair of
small, pointed scissors to do the cutting and
a pencil wrapped with sandpaper to finish
the edges.) Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo sealed the
headrest in place. The backing “armor
plate” that the headrest sits against is also
prepainted and installed for you, as is the
cockpit floor.
The prepainted canopy is well done. Use
a small pair of scissors to cut away the
excess trim. It’s better to cut two or three
times rather than make a mistake and take
too much off the first time.
At this point, I added the unpainted
Hangar 9 military pilot, which is made from
a soft molded material and is easy to trim.
To make it fit in the cockpit, I removed
approximately a half inch from the bottom
of the figure. I kept cutting and placing the
pilot back in the cockpit until I was happy
and had clearance for the canopy. I stuffed
the pilot with some of the cotton that came
with it, set it on a fitted 1/8 sheet of balsa,
and used epoxy to seal the two parts
together.
Our grandkids have water-based paint
sets in the shop that my wife bought at a
discount store. They cost close to $2.50, and
each set has a decent variety of colors. To
paint the pilot, select colors that look as
though they would go on a pilot’s uniform,
helmet, and goggles.
Using the brush that came with the paint
set, I added the colors to large sections such
as the head, body, and helmet. After letting
that dry, I went back and added details such
as lips and eyes with drops of paint on
toothpicks.
Documentation: For documentation on the
“white 13” color scheme, check out page 25
in Squadron/Signal Publications’ Aircraft
No. 36: F6F Hellcat in Action, which is
available from Amazon.com. Jim Sullivan
wrote the book, and Don Greer illustrated it.
A color side view on that page matches
the color scheme of Hangar 9’s model. The
full-scale aircraft is an F6F-3 of VF-16,
flying from the USS Lexington in December
1943. The pilot is unknown. This color side
view is all you need for documentation to
fly the model in Fun Scale competitions.
Engine: I used the Zenoah G-20: the
smallest of that brand of gas power plants.
They can swing a larger propeller and
develop more torque than most glowburning
two-stroke engines.
They also require an extra battery pack
for the ignition system and a place in the
model to install the ignition unit. I mounted
it above the engine mount and moved the
2300 mAh receiver battery pack into the aft
end of the fuselage, to help balance the
model.
To separate the ignition battery and the
receiver and its wiring, I mounted the
ignition battery as far forward as possible,
behind the firewall. With this power
combination, you will have to add ballast to
the Hellcat’s tail; you will be unable to
counter the gas engine’s weight without it.
I liked the ability to station the
carburetor and intake as well as the exhaust
pipe in almost any position I wanted. Both
are interchangeable from the right side to
the left. Screw the high-throttle screw on
the carburetor all the way in, and then turn
it out one complete turn and slightly less
than an additional quarter turn.
I used Coleman Camp Fuel with the
recommended two-stroke oil mix for the
F6F. I made this selection because that fuel
doesn’t stink in my van as gasoline does,
which is where the fuel can and model must
ride between flights. The G-20 runs great on
this fuel, which costs roughly half of what
glow fuel does.
You can use gasoline from the pump,
but the fumes can cause headaches. For
safety, always have a fire extinguisher
handy at the field and in the shop when
working on gas engines.
Flight: With only one tank of fuel run
through the engine for break-in, the Hellcat
was ready for its first flight. Alex Adams, a
fellow Nashville, Tennessee, modeler and
good friend, assumed the controls as I took
the flight shots.
The paved asphalt runway we use is
approximately 100 x 400 feet. We gave the
model most of the runway for takeoff at half
throttle, but it took to the air at maybe 75
feet.
Since the F6F is a warbird, you want to
gradually feed in throttle. If you “firewall”
it, you can end up with a ground loop or the
need for excessive rudder. Using the “slowthrottle”
method, the Hellcat needed no
rudder for takeoff. The G-20 never missed a
beat, and it idles wonderfully either upright
or inverted.
At the recommended throws on the
ailerons, it was a bit sensitive. But you can
easily adjust this with the radio system. The
model has good throttle authority
throughout the power range. The G-20
keeps it flying at a slower pace but has
plenty of torque and power for any
aerobatics.
The F6F’s retracts did what they were
supposed to when using the switch, and I
experienced no problems during the flights.
The retracts didn’t drag or hang down in
flight. When lowered, they locked into
position with no problems and held during
landings.
When properly balanced, this ARF stalls
straight ahead, the nose drops, and it
continues to mush along. This is what you
want in any model—especially a warbird:
no tip-stalling or snapping into a spin.
Additional flights to explore the
Hellcat’s flight envelope have also been a
joy. Just don’t let the ignition battery run
low. Two or so flights are all I’ll put on the
1200 mAh ignition battery before charging
it.
The model will tend to dive in turns
somewhat, and adding a bit of rudder and a
small amount of elevator will help make a
beautiful scale turn. And rolls are extremely
similar to military style, with a hump in the
middle, and they look realistic.
I only wish the model had flaps. It would
be just another option to play with; this
airplane doesn’t need them.
With the big, round cowl and a 16 x 8
propeller, this ARF slows quickly for final
approach. Don’t cut the throttle until after
you have made the final turn, and keep the
engine at high idle and let it start to sink;
you will be pleased with every flight.
I have flown this aircraft in varying
conditions, and it handles the wind well. As
do many warbirds, it punches through the
wind with no problems.
I enjoyed building the Hangar 9 Hellcat.
I’ve learned a lot about gas engines and
ignition systems with it. I’ve also learned
how you must keep the ignition components
separate from the receiver and its servos and
have found fuel sources.
Now I’m looking forward to changing
the F6F’s markings and adding some
details. MA
Stan Alexander
[email protected]
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Hangar 9/Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
www.hangar-9.com
Sources:
JR
(800) 338-4639
www.jrradios.com
Tower Hobbies
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Zap Glue
(760) 246-6462
www.zapglue.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Sullivan Products
(410) 732-3500
www.sullivanproducts.com
Other Printed Reviews:
Model Airplane News: January 2007
Fly RC: February 2007
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/07
Page Numbers: 63,64,65,66,69
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/07
Page Numbers: 63,64,65,66,69
.THE GRUMMAN F6F Hellcat was the scourge of the Pacific
Theater in World War II. More of that type were constructed by the
dedicated workers in the famous Grumman Iron Works plant than
any other aircraft during the war—and in a shorter period of time.
With folding wings for aircraft-carrier use, flaps, retracts, and six
50-caliber machine guns, the versatile F6F was a formidable fighter
and gun platform. In addition to carriers, the Hellcat operated off
of island fields. The Jeep transporters,
which were smaller ships converted
to aircraft carriers, generally had
F4F Wildcats onboard; the larger
first-line carriers were equipped
with Hellcats.
There was such a surplus of
used and unused F6Fs after
WW II, that they were sent to
various National Guard units,
used for targets, and performed
target-towing duties.
The Hangar 9 Hellcat’s box
contains its various
subassemblies, which are divided
into specific sections of the
warbird. Looking at the photos on
the box cover, you might already
anticipate a great product.
Each part of the model is
carefully wrapped in plastic and
insulated for further protection of
the individual parts. When you open the bags, you will see the
fuselage side and the large star/bars marking with the red outline.
I thought the star/bars markings were too large for the fuselage
until I did a bit of research in a Squadron Signal book. Hangar 9
did its homework, and the model matches the documentation. You
can’t say that about many warbird ARFs.
I’ve been impressed with this company for selecting
full-scale aircraft to model; that
appeals more to us Scale modelers.
If you’re into that category of
competition, this ARF’s
realism will easily earn you
the 5 static points that are
available in Fun Scale or other
classes.
Be careful taking the
subassemblies out of the box;
restrictive clear tape is applied
everywhere, and with good
reason. It keeps the
components from banging
around inside the box and
getting damaged.
The fuselage comes in one
piece, along with a fiberglass
cowling and prepainted
canopy. Engine mounts are
supplied for a two-stroke .60,
which will fly this model with
ease. I examined the hardware and
Water-based paint from Wal-Mart’s craft department was used to
finish the Hangar 9 pilot. He needed trimmed to fit in the cockpit.
To ensure the model’s long life and that it
can handle engine vibration, reinforce the
firewall with extra epoxy in the joints.
Tru-Turn’s 11/4-inch spinner hub is a great
final touch to the front end of the Hellcat.
The propeller is an APC 16 x 8.
The stock fuel tank is a custom fit inside the F6F. Exchange the
silicone fuel lines, and it’s compatible with the gas engine.
Photos by the author
Even with the Zenoah G-20, the cowling is
virtually complete. The author painted the
wheel wells to match the white belly.
A Spektrum radio system proved to be the optimal system for the
F6F. A healthy 2300 mAh JR receiver pack sits under the cockpit.
The G-20 is a great engine choice for 60-size warbirds from
Hangar 9.
used most of what was supplied, including the hinges, wheels, dummy
engine, and various nuts and bolts.
Assembly: The wing comes in three panels. Preinstalled retracts are
mounted on a center panel. The outer two are where the aileron servos
will be located in a handy hatch on the underside of both the port and
starboard panel. (I couldn’t resist using the naval terminology
there.)
Don’t skimp on your Hellcat’s retract servo. Use the one
recommended, which is a JR NES-791 high-torque, low-profile,
metal-gear unit that includes a servo wheel with an inch between its
connectors.
Servos with plastic gears will work in this sort of
application. However, they will strip the servo gear teeth out
after only a few operations. You could be flying and find that
you’re unable to get the gear up or, even worse for the model,
you won’t be able to get the gear down.
After you’re sure you have the tiny quick connectors positioned,
add the setscrew to each one. Once I was finished installing the
quick connectors, I uninstalled them. With a sharp cutting tool, I
trimmed the ends of the retract pushrods approximately one-and-ahalf
inches. This should provide plenty of pushrod to properly
actuate the mechanics.
It’s a good idea to label each servo lead coming out of the wing
and the fuselage. To do so, I used a P-Touch label maker; I made an
“L Aileron,” a “R Aileron,” and a “Retract.” Label the other servo
leads the same way, and you’re set.
Test the retract landing gear now; it is a
bad idea to wait. If you need to make
adjustments, doing so is much easier before
adding the outer wing panels. I followed
the instructions but increased the width of
the open area in the wing for the retract
servo by roughly a half inch on each side
of the precut retract-servo location.
With the retracts complete, add the spar
material for each outer wing panel. I finishsanded
both spars so that they fit perfectly.
Use only 30-minute epoxy for this
assembly.
Before adding the wheel wells, which
fit into the wing under the retract
mechanism, you might want to paint them
white, to match the underside of the wing,
instead of leaving them gray. Pull the
aileron extensions through the panels
before completely sealing the wheel
openings.
The cockpit interior is prepainted black.
It has an instrument decal, which quickly
sticks to the front of the cockpit panel.
There is also a plastic headrest, which
you need to trim. (I used a standard pair of
small, pointed scissors to do the cutting and
a pencil wrapped with sandpaper to finish
the edges.) Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo sealed the
headrest in place. The backing “armor
plate” that the headrest sits against is also
prepainted and installed for you, as is the
cockpit floor.
The prepainted canopy is well done. Use
a small pair of scissors to cut away the
excess trim. It’s better to cut two or three
times rather than make a mistake and take
too much off the first time.
At this point, I added the unpainted
Hangar 9 military pilot, which is made from
a soft molded material and is easy to trim.
To make it fit in the cockpit, I removed
approximately a half inch from the bottom
of the figure. I kept cutting and placing the
pilot back in the cockpit until I was happy
and had clearance for the canopy. I stuffed
the pilot with some of the cotton that came
with it, set it on a fitted 1/8 sheet of balsa,
and used epoxy to seal the two parts
together.
Our grandkids have water-based paint
sets in the shop that my wife bought at a
discount store. They cost close to $2.50, and
each set has a decent variety of colors. To
paint the pilot, select colors that look as
though they would go on a pilot’s uniform,
helmet, and goggles.
Using the brush that came with the paint
set, I added the colors to large sections such
as the head, body, and helmet. After letting
that dry, I went back and added details such
as lips and eyes with drops of paint on
toothpicks.
Documentation: For documentation on the
“white 13” color scheme, check out page 25
in Squadron/Signal Publications’ Aircraft
No. 36: F6F Hellcat in Action, which is
available from Amazon.com. Jim Sullivan
wrote the book, and Don Greer illustrated it.
A color side view on that page matches
the color scheme of Hangar 9’s model. The
full-scale aircraft is an F6F-3 of VF-16,
flying from the USS Lexington in December
1943. The pilot is unknown. This color side
view is all you need for documentation to
fly the model in Fun Scale competitions.
Engine: I used the Zenoah G-20: the
smallest of that brand of gas power plants.
They can swing a larger propeller and
develop more torque than most glowburning
two-stroke engines.
They also require an extra battery pack
for the ignition system and a place in the
model to install the ignition unit. I mounted
it above the engine mount and moved the
2300 mAh receiver battery pack into the aft
end of the fuselage, to help balance the
model.
To separate the ignition battery and the
receiver and its wiring, I mounted the
ignition battery as far forward as possible,
behind the firewall. With this power
combination, you will have to add ballast to
the Hellcat’s tail; you will be unable to
counter the gas engine’s weight without it.
I liked the ability to station the
carburetor and intake as well as the exhaust
pipe in almost any position I wanted. Both
are interchangeable from the right side to
the left. Screw the high-throttle screw on
the carburetor all the way in, and then turn
it out one complete turn and slightly less
than an additional quarter turn.
I used Coleman Camp Fuel with the
recommended two-stroke oil mix for the
F6F. I made this selection because that fuel
doesn’t stink in my van as gasoline does,
which is where the fuel can and model must
ride between flights. The G-20 runs great on
this fuel, which costs roughly half of what
glow fuel does.
You can use gasoline from the pump,
but the fumes can cause headaches. For
safety, always have a fire extinguisher
handy at the field and in the shop when
working on gas engines.
Flight: With only one tank of fuel run
through the engine for break-in, the Hellcat
was ready for its first flight. Alex Adams, a
fellow Nashville, Tennessee, modeler and
good friend, assumed the controls as I took
the flight shots.
The paved asphalt runway we use is
approximately 100 x 400 feet. We gave the
model most of the runway for takeoff at half
throttle, but it took to the air at maybe 75
feet.
Since the F6F is a warbird, you want to
gradually feed in throttle. If you “firewall”
it, you can end up with a ground loop or the
need for excessive rudder. Using the “slowthrottle”
method, the Hellcat needed no
rudder for takeoff. The G-20 never missed a
beat, and it idles wonderfully either upright
or inverted.
At the recommended throws on the
ailerons, it was a bit sensitive. But you can
easily adjust this with the radio system. The
model has good throttle authority
throughout the power range. The G-20
keeps it flying at a slower pace but has
plenty of torque and power for any
aerobatics.
The F6F’s retracts did what they were
supposed to when using the switch, and I
experienced no problems during the flights.
The retracts didn’t drag or hang down in
flight. When lowered, they locked into
position with no problems and held during
landings.
When properly balanced, this ARF stalls
straight ahead, the nose drops, and it
continues to mush along. This is what you
want in any model—especially a warbird:
no tip-stalling or snapping into a spin.
Additional flights to explore the
Hellcat’s flight envelope have also been a
joy. Just don’t let the ignition battery run
low. Two or so flights are all I’ll put on the
1200 mAh ignition battery before charging
it.
The model will tend to dive in turns
somewhat, and adding a bit of rudder and a
small amount of elevator will help make a
beautiful scale turn. And rolls are extremely
similar to military style, with a hump in the
middle, and they look realistic.
I only wish the model had flaps. It would
be just another option to play with; this
airplane doesn’t need them.
With the big, round cowl and a 16 x 8
propeller, this ARF slows quickly for final
approach. Don’t cut the throttle until after
you have made the final turn, and keep the
engine at high idle and let it start to sink;
you will be pleased with every flight.
I have flown this aircraft in varying
conditions, and it handles the wind well. As
do many warbirds, it punches through the
wind with no problems.
I enjoyed building the Hangar 9 Hellcat.
I’ve learned a lot about gas engines and
ignition systems with it. I’ve also learned
how you must keep the ignition components
separate from the receiver and its servos and
have found fuel sources.
Now I’m looking forward to changing
the F6F’s markings and adding some
details. MA
Stan Alexander
[email protected]
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Hangar 9/Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
www.hangar-9.com
Sources:
JR
(800) 338-4639
www.jrradios.com
Tower Hobbies
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Zap Glue
(760) 246-6462
www.zapglue.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Sullivan Products
(410) 732-3500
www.sullivanproducts.com
Other Printed Reviews:
Model Airplane News: January 2007
Fly RC: February 2007
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/07
Page Numbers: 63,64,65,66,69
.THE GRUMMAN F6F Hellcat was the scourge of the Pacific
Theater in World War II. More of that type were constructed by the
dedicated workers in the famous Grumman Iron Works plant than
any other aircraft during the war—and in a shorter period of time.
With folding wings for aircraft-carrier use, flaps, retracts, and six
50-caliber machine guns, the versatile F6F was a formidable fighter
and gun platform. In addition to carriers, the Hellcat operated off
of island fields. The Jeep transporters,
which were smaller ships converted
to aircraft carriers, generally had
F4F Wildcats onboard; the larger
first-line carriers were equipped
with Hellcats.
There was such a surplus of
used and unused F6Fs after
WW II, that they were sent to
various National Guard units,
used for targets, and performed
target-towing duties.
The Hangar 9 Hellcat’s box
contains its various
subassemblies, which are divided
into specific sections of the
warbird. Looking at the photos on
the box cover, you might already
anticipate a great product.
Each part of the model is
carefully wrapped in plastic and
insulated for further protection of
the individual parts. When you open the bags, you will see the
fuselage side and the large star/bars marking with the red outline.
I thought the star/bars markings were too large for the fuselage
until I did a bit of research in a Squadron Signal book. Hangar 9
did its homework, and the model matches the documentation. You
can’t say that about many warbird ARFs.
I’ve been impressed with this company for selecting
full-scale aircraft to model; that
appeals more to us Scale modelers.
If you’re into that category of
competition, this ARF’s
realism will easily earn you
the 5 static points that are
available in Fun Scale or other
classes.
Be careful taking the
subassemblies out of the box;
restrictive clear tape is applied
everywhere, and with good
reason. It keeps the
components from banging
around inside the box and
getting damaged.
The fuselage comes in one
piece, along with a fiberglass
cowling and prepainted
canopy. Engine mounts are
supplied for a two-stroke .60,
which will fly this model with
ease. I examined the hardware and
Water-based paint from Wal-Mart’s craft department was used to
finish the Hangar 9 pilot. He needed trimmed to fit in the cockpit.
To ensure the model’s long life and that it
can handle engine vibration, reinforce the
firewall with extra epoxy in the joints.
Tru-Turn’s 11/4-inch spinner hub is a great
final touch to the front end of the Hellcat.
The propeller is an APC 16 x 8.
The stock fuel tank is a custom fit inside the F6F. Exchange the
silicone fuel lines, and it’s compatible with the gas engine.
Photos by the author
Even with the Zenoah G-20, the cowling is
virtually complete. The author painted the
wheel wells to match the white belly.
A Spektrum radio system proved to be the optimal system for the
F6F. A healthy 2300 mAh JR receiver pack sits under the cockpit.
The G-20 is a great engine choice for 60-size warbirds from
Hangar 9.
used most of what was supplied, including the hinges, wheels, dummy
engine, and various nuts and bolts.
Assembly: The wing comes in three panels. Preinstalled retracts are
mounted on a center panel. The outer two are where the aileron servos
will be located in a handy hatch on the underside of both the port and
starboard panel. (I couldn’t resist using the naval terminology
there.)
Don’t skimp on your Hellcat’s retract servo. Use the one
recommended, which is a JR NES-791 high-torque, low-profile,
metal-gear unit that includes a servo wheel with an inch between its
connectors.
Servos with plastic gears will work in this sort of
application. However, they will strip the servo gear teeth out
after only a few operations. You could be flying and find that
you’re unable to get the gear up or, even worse for the model,
you won’t be able to get the gear down.
After you’re sure you have the tiny quick connectors positioned,
add the setscrew to each one. Once I was finished installing the
quick connectors, I uninstalled them. With a sharp cutting tool, I
trimmed the ends of the retract pushrods approximately one-and-ahalf
inches. This should provide plenty of pushrod to properly
actuate the mechanics.
It’s a good idea to label each servo lead coming out of the wing
and the fuselage. To do so, I used a P-Touch label maker; I made an
“L Aileron,” a “R Aileron,” and a “Retract.” Label the other servo
leads the same way, and you’re set.
Test the retract landing gear now; it is a
bad idea to wait. If you need to make
adjustments, doing so is much easier before
adding the outer wing panels. I followed
the instructions but increased the width of
the open area in the wing for the retract
servo by roughly a half inch on each side
of the precut retract-servo location.
With the retracts complete, add the spar
material for each outer wing panel. I finishsanded
both spars so that they fit perfectly.
Use only 30-minute epoxy for this
assembly.
Before adding the wheel wells, which
fit into the wing under the retract
mechanism, you might want to paint them
white, to match the underside of the wing,
instead of leaving them gray. Pull the
aileron extensions through the panels
before completely sealing the wheel
openings.
The cockpit interior is prepainted black.
It has an instrument decal, which quickly
sticks to the front of the cockpit panel.
There is also a plastic headrest, which
you need to trim. (I used a standard pair of
small, pointed scissors to do the cutting and
a pencil wrapped with sandpaper to finish
the edges.) Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo sealed the
headrest in place. The backing “armor
plate” that the headrest sits against is also
prepainted and installed for you, as is the
cockpit floor.
The prepainted canopy is well done. Use
a small pair of scissors to cut away the
excess trim. It’s better to cut two or three
times rather than make a mistake and take
too much off the first time.
At this point, I added the unpainted
Hangar 9 military pilot, which is made from
a soft molded material and is easy to trim.
To make it fit in the cockpit, I removed
approximately a half inch from the bottom
of the figure. I kept cutting and placing the
pilot back in the cockpit until I was happy
and had clearance for the canopy. I stuffed
the pilot with some of the cotton that came
with it, set it on a fitted 1/8 sheet of balsa,
and used epoxy to seal the two parts
together.
Our grandkids have water-based paint
sets in the shop that my wife bought at a
discount store. They cost close to $2.50, and
each set has a decent variety of colors. To
paint the pilot, select colors that look as
though they would go on a pilot’s uniform,
helmet, and goggles.
Using the brush that came with the paint
set, I added the colors to large sections such
as the head, body, and helmet. After letting
that dry, I went back and added details such
as lips and eyes with drops of paint on
toothpicks.
Documentation: For documentation on the
“white 13” color scheme, check out page 25
in Squadron/Signal Publications’ Aircraft
No. 36: F6F Hellcat in Action, which is
available from Amazon.com. Jim Sullivan
wrote the book, and Don Greer illustrated it.
A color side view on that page matches
the color scheme of Hangar 9’s model. The
full-scale aircraft is an F6F-3 of VF-16,
flying from the USS Lexington in December
1943. The pilot is unknown. This color side
view is all you need for documentation to
fly the model in Fun Scale competitions.
Engine: I used the Zenoah G-20: the
smallest of that brand of gas power plants.
They can swing a larger propeller and
develop more torque than most glowburning
two-stroke engines.
They also require an extra battery pack
for the ignition system and a place in the
model to install the ignition unit. I mounted
it above the engine mount and moved the
2300 mAh receiver battery pack into the aft
end of the fuselage, to help balance the
model.
To separate the ignition battery and the
receiver and its wiring, I mounted the
ignition battery as far forward as possible,
behind the firewall. With this power
combination, you will have to add ballast to
the Hellcat’s tail; you will be unable to
counter the gas engine’s weight without it.
I liked the ability to station the
carburetor and intake as well as the exhaust
pipe in almost any position I wanted. Both
are interchangeable from the right side to
the left. Screw the high-throttle screw on
the carburetor all the way in, and then turn
it out one complete turn and slightly less
than an additional quarter turn.
I used Coleman Camp Fuel with the
recommended two-stroke oil mix for the
F6F. I made this selection because that fuel
doesn’t stink in my van as gasoline does,
which is where the fuel can and model must
ride between flights. The G-20 runs great on
this fuel, which costs roughly half of what
glow fuel does.
You can use gasoline from the pump,
but the fumes can cause headaches. For
safety, always have a fire extinguisher
handy at the field and in the shop when
working on gas engines.
Flight: With only one tank of fuel run
through the engine for break-in, the Hellcat
was ready for its first flight. Alex Adams, a
fellow Nashville, Tennessee, modeler and
good friend, assumed the controls as I took
the flight shots.
The paved asphalt runway we use is
approximately 100 x 400 feet. We gave the
model most of the runway for takeoff at half
throttle, but it took to the air at maybe 75
feet.
Since the F6F is a warbird, you want to
gradually feed in throttle. If you “firewall”
it, you can end up with a ground loop or the
need for excessive rudder. Using the “slowthrottle”
method, the Hellcat needed no
rudder for takeoff. The G-20 never missed a
beat, and it idles wonderfully either upright
or inverted.
At the recommended throws on the
ailerons, it was a bit sensitive. But you can
easily adjust this with the radio system. The
model has good throttle authority
throughout the power range. The G-20
keeps it flying at a slower pace but has
plenty of torque and power for any
aerobatics.
The F6F’s retracts did what they were
supposed to when using the switch, and I
experienced no problems during the flights.
The retracts didn’t drag or hang down in
flight. When lowered, they locked into
position with no problems and held during
landings.
When properly balanced, this ARF stalls
straight ahead, the nose drops, and it
continues to mush along. This is what you
want in any model—especially a warbird:
no tip-stalling or snapping into a spin.
Additional flights to explore the
Hellcat’s flight envelope have also been a
joy. Just don’t let the ignition battery run
low. Two or so flights are all I’ll put on the
1200 mAh ignition battery before charging
it.
The model will tend to dive in turns
somewhat, and adding a bit of rudder and a
small amount of elevator will help make a
beautiful scale turn. And rolls are extremely
similar to military style, with a hump in the
middle, and they look realistic.
I only wish the model had flaps. It would
be just another option to play with; this
airplane doesn’t need them.
With the big, round cowl and a 16 x 8
propeller, this ARF slows quickly for final
approach. Don’t cut the throttle until after
you have made the final turn, and keep the
engine at high idle and let it start to sink;
you will be pleased with every flight.
I have flown this aircraft in varying
conditions, and it handles the wind well. As
do many warbirds, it punches through the
wind with no problems.
I enjoyed building the Hangar 9 Hellcat.
I’ve learned a lot about gas engines and
ignition systems with it. I’ve also learned
how you must keep the ignition components
separate from the receiver and its servos and
have found fuel sources.
Now I’m looking forward to changing
the F6F’s markings and adding some
details. MA
Stan Alexander
[email protected]
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Hangar 9/Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
www.hangar-9.com
Sources:
JR
(800) 338-4639
www.jrradios.com
Tower Hobbies
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Zap Glue
(760) 246-6462
www.zapglue.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Sullivan Products
(410) 732-3500
www.sullivanproducts.com
Other Printed Reviews:
Model Airplane News: January 2007
Fly RC: February 2007
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/07
Page Numbers: 63,64,65,66,69
.THE GRUMMAN F6F Hellcat was the scourge of the Pacific
Theater in World War II. More of that type were constructed by the
dedicated workers in the famous Grumman Iron Works plant than
any other aircraft during the war—and in a shorter period of time.
With folding wings for aircraft-carrier use, flaps, retracts, and six
50-caliber machine guns, the versatile F6F was a formidable fighter
and gun platform. In addition to carriers, the Hellcat operated off
of island fields. The Jeep transporters,
which were smaller ships converted
to aircraft carriers, generally had
F4F Wildcats onboard; the larger
first-line carriers were equipped
with Hellcats.
There was such a surplus of
used and unused F6Fs after
WW II, that they were sent to
various National Guard units,
used for targets, and performed
target-towing duties.
The Hangar 9 Hellcat’s box
contains its various
subassemblies, which are divided
into specific sections of the
warbird. Looking at the photos on
the box cover, you might already
anticipate a great product.
Each part of the model is
carefully wrapped in plastic and
insulated for further protection of
the individual parts. When you open the bags, you will see the
fuselage side and the large star/bars marking with the red outline.
I thought the star/bars markings were too large for the fuselage
until I did a bit of research in a Squadron Signal book. Hangar 9
did its homework, and the model matches the documentation. You
can’t say that about many warbird ARFs.
I’ve been impressed with this company for selecting
full-scale aircraft to model; that
appeals more to us Scale modelers.
If you’re into that category of
competition, this ARF’s
realism will easily earn you
the 5 static points that are
available in Fun Scale or other
classes.
Be careful taking the
subassemblies out of the box;
restrictive clear tape is applied
everywhere, and with good
reason. It keeps the
components from banging
around inside the box and
getting damaged.
The fuselage comes in one
piece, along with a fiberglass
cowling and prepainted
canopy. Engine mounts are
supplied for a two-stroke .60,
which will fly this model with
ease. I examined the hardware and
Water-based paint from Wal-Mart’s craft department was used to
finish the Hangar 9 pilot. He needed trimmed to fit in the cockpit.
To ensure the model’s long life and that it
can handle engine vibration, reinforce the
firewall with extra epoxy in the joints.
Tru-Turn’s 11/4-inch spinner hub is a great
final touch to the front end of the Hellcat.
The propeller is an APC 16 x 8.
The stock fuel tank is a custom fit inside the F6F. Exchange the
silicone fuel lines, and it’s compatible with the gas engine.
Photos by the author
Even with the Zenoah G-20, the cowling is
virtually complete. The author painted the
wheel wells to match the white belly.
A Spektrum radio system proved to be the optimal system for the
F6F. A healthy 2300 mAh JR receiver pack sits under the cockpit.
The G-20 is a great engine choice for 60-size warbirds from
Hangar 9.
used most of what was supplied, including the hinges, wheels, dummy
engine, and various nuts and bolts.
Assembly: The wing comes in three panels. Preinstalled retracts are
mounted on a center panel. The outer two are where the aileron servos
will be located in a handy hatch on the underside of both the port and
starboard panel. (I couldn’t resist using the naval terminology
there.)
Don’t skimp on your Hellcat’s retract servo. Use the one
recommended, which is a JR NES-791 high-torque, low-profile,
metal-gear unit that includes a servo wheel with an inch between its
connectors.
Servos with plastic gears will work in this sort of
application. However, they will strip the servo gear teeth out
after only a few operations. You could be flying and find that
you’re unable to get the gear up or, even worse for the model,
you won’t be able to get the gear down.
After you’re sure you have the tiny quick connectors positioned,
add the setscrew to each one. Once I was finished installing the
quick connectors, I uninstalled them. With a sharp cutting tool, I
trimmed the ends of the retract pushrods approximately one-and-ahalf
inches. This should provide plenty of pushrod to properly
actuate the mechanics.
It’s a good idea to label each servo lead coming out of the wing
and the fuselage. To do so, I used a P-Touch label maker; I made an
“L Aileron,” a “R Aileron,” and a “Retract.” Label the other servo
leads the same way, and you’re set.
Test the retract landing gear now; it is a
bad idea to wait. If you need to make
adjustments, doing so is much easier before
adding the outer wing panels. I followed
the instructions but increased the width of
the open area in the wing for the retract
servo by roughly a half inch on each side
of the precut retract-servo location.
With the retracts complete, add the spar
material for each outer wing panel. I finishsanded
both spars so that they fit perfectly.
Use only 30-minute epoxy for this
assembly.
Before adding the wheel wells, which
fit into the wing under the retract
mechanism, you might want to paint them
white, to match the underside of the wing,
instead of leaving them gray. Pull the
aileron extensions through the panels
before completely sealing the wheel
openings.
The cockpit interior is prepainted black.
It has an instrument decal, which quickly
sticks to the front of the cockpit panel.
There is also a plastic headrest, which
you need to trim. (I used a standard pair of
small, pointed scissors to do the cutting and
a pencil wrapped with sandpaper to finish
the edges.) Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo sealed the
headrest in place. The backing “armor
plate” that the headrest sits against is also
prepainted and installed for you, as is the
cockpit floor.
The prepainted canopy is well done. Use
a small pair of scissors to cut away the
excess trim. It’s better to cut two or three
times rather than make a mistake and take
too much off the first time.
At this point, I added the unpainted
Hangar 9 military pilot, which is made from
a soft molded material and is easy to trim.
To make it fit in the cockpit, I removed
approximately a half inch from the bottom
of the figure. I kept cutting and placing the
pilot back in the cockpit until I was happy
and had clearance for the canopy. I stuffed
the pilot with some of the cotton that came
with it, set it on a fitted 1/8 sheet of balsa,
and used epoxy to seal the two parts
together.
Our grandkids have water-based paint
sets in the shop that my wife bought at a
discount store. They cost close to $2.50, and
each set has a decent variety of colors. To
paint the pilot, select colors that look as
though they would go on a pilot’s uniform,
helmet, and goggles.
Using the brush that came with the paint
set, I added the colors to large sections such
as the head, body, and helmet. After letting
that dry, I went back and added details such
as lips and eyes with drops of paint on
toothpicks.
Documentation: For documentation on the
“white 13” color scheme, check out page 25
in Squadron/Signal Publications’ Aircraft
No. 36: F6F Hellcat in Action, which is
available from Amazon.com. Jim Sullivan
wrote the book, and Don Greer illustrated it.
A color side view on that page matches
the color scheme of Hangar 9’s model. The
full-scale aircraft is an F6F-3 of VF-16,
flying from the USS Lexington in December
1943. The pilot is unknown. This color side
view is all you need for documentation to
fly the model in Fun Scale competitions.
Engine: I used the Zenoah G-20: the
smallest of that brand of gas power plants.
They can swing a larger propeller and
develop more torque than most glowburning
two-stroke engines.
They also require an extra battery pack
for the ignition system and a place in the
model to install the ignition unit. I mounted
it above the engine mount and moved the
2300 mAh receiver battery pack into the aft
end of the fuselage, to help balance the
model.
To separate the ignition battery and the
receiver and its wiring, I mounted the
ignition battery as far forward as possible,
behind the firewall. With this power
combination, you will have to add ballast to
the Hellcat’s tail; you will be unable to
counter the gas engine’s weight without it.
I liked the ability to station the
carburetor and intake as well as the exhaust
pipe in almost any position I wanted. Both
are interchangeable from the right side to
the left. Screw the high-throttle screw on
the carburetor all the way in, and then turn
it out one complete turn and slightly less
than an additional quarter turn.
I used Coleman Camp Fuel with the
recommended two-stroke oil mix for the
F6F. I made this selection because that fuel
doesn’t stink in my van as gasoline does,
which is where the fuel can and model must
ride between flights. The G-20 runs great on
this fuel, which costs roughly half of what
glow fuel does.
You can use gasoline from the pump,
but the fumes can cause headaches. For
safety, always have a fire extinguisher
handy at the field and in the shop when
working on gas engines.
Flight: With only one tank of fuel run
through the engine for break-in, the Hellcat
was ready for its first flight. Alex Adams, a
fellow Nashville, Tennessee, modeler and
good friend, assumed the controls as I took
the flight shots.
The paved asphalt runway we use is
approximately 100 x 400 feet. We gave the
model most of the runway for takeoff at half
throttle, but it took to the air at maybe 75
feet.
Since the F6F is a warbird, you want to
gradually feed in throttle. If you “firewall”
it, you can end up with a ground loop or the
need for excessive rudder. Using the “slowthrottle”
method, the Hellcat needed no
rudder for takeoff. The G-20 never missed a
beat, and it idles wonderfully either upright
or inverted.
At the recommended throws on the
ailerons, it was a bit sensitive. But you can
easily adjust this with the radio system. The
model has good throttle authority
throughout the power range. The G-20
keeps it flying at a slower pace but has
plenty of torque and power for any
aerobatics.
The F6F’s retracts did what they were
supposed to when using the switch, and I
experienced no problems during the flights.
The retracts didn’t drag or hang down in
flight. When lowered, they locked into
position with no problems and held during
landings.
When properly balanced, this ARF stalls
straight ahead, the nose drops, and it
continues to mush along. This is what you
want in any model—especially a warbird:
no tip-stalling or snapping into a spin.
Additional flights to explore the
Hellcat’s flight envelope have also been a
joy. Just don’t let the ignition battery run
low. Two or so flights are all I’ll put on the
1200 mAh ignition battery before charging
it.
The model will tend to dive in turns
somewhat, and adding a bit of rudder and a
small amount of elevator will help make a
beautiful scale turn. And rolls are extremely
similar to military style, with a hump in the
middle, and they look realistic.
I only wish the model had flaps. It would
be just another option to play with; this
airplane doesn’t need them.
With the big, round cowl and a 16 x 8
propeller, this ARF slows quickly for final
approach. Don’t cut the throttle until after
you have made the final turn, and keep the
engine at high idle and let it start to sink;
you will be pleased with every flight.
I have flown this aircraft in varying
conditions, and it handles the wind well. As
do many warbirds, it punches through the
wind with no problems.
I enjoyed building the Hangar 9 Hellcat.
I’ve learned a lot about gas engines and
ignition systems with it. I’ve also learned
how you must keep the ignition components
separate from the receiver and its servos and
have found fuel sources.
Now I’m looking forward to changing
the F6F’s markings and adding some
details. MA
Stan Alexander
[email protected]
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Hangar 9/Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
www.hangar-9.com
Sources:
JR
(800) 338-4639
www.jrradios.com
Tower Hobbies
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Zap Glue
(760) 246-6462
www.zapglue.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Sullivan Products
(410) 732-3500
www.sullivanproducts.com
Other Printed Reviews:
Model Airplane News: January 2007
Fly RC: February 2007
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/07
Page Numbers: 63,64,65,66,69
.THE GRUMMAN F6F Hellcat was the scourge of the Pacific
Theater in World War II. More of that type were constructed by the
dedicated workers in the famous Grumman Iron Works plant than
any other aircraft during the war—and in a shorter period of time.
With folding wings for aircraft-carrier use, flaps, retracts, and six
50-caliber machine guns, the versatile F6F was a formidable fighter
and gun platform. In addition to carriers, the Hellcat operated off
of island fields. The Jeep transporters,
which were smaller ships converted
to aircraft carriers, generally had
F4F Wildcats onboard; the larger
first-line carriers were equipped
with Hellcats.
There was such a surplus of
used and unused F6Fs after
WW II, that they were sent to
various National Guard units,
used for targets, and performed
target-towing duties.
The Hangar 9 Hellcat’s box
contains its various
subassemblies, which are divided
into specific sections of the
warbird. Looking at the photos on
the box cover, you might already
anticipate a great product.
Each part of the model is
carefully wrapped in plastic and
insulated for further protection of
the individual parts. When you open the bags, you will see the
fuselage side and the large star/bars marking with the red outline.
I thought the star/bars markings were too large for the fuselage
until I did a bit of research in a Squadron Signal book. Hangar 9
did its homework, and the model matches the documentation. You
can’t say that about many warbird ARFs.
I’ve been impressed with this company for selecting
full-scale aircraft to model; that
appeals more to us Scale modelers.
If you’re into that category of
competition, this ARF’s
realism will easily earn you
the 5 static points that are
available in Fun Scale or other
classes.
Be careful taking the
subassemblies out of the box;
restrictive clear tape is applied
everywhere, and with good
reason. It keeps the
components from banging
around inside the box and
getting damaged.
The fuselage comes in one
piece, along with a fiberglass
cowling and prepainted
canopy. Engine mounts are
supplied for a two-stroke .60,
which will fly this model with
ease. I examined the hardware and
Water-based paint from Wal-Mart’s craft department was used to
finish the Hangar 9 pilot. He needed trimmed to fit in the cockpit.
To ensure the model’s long life and that it
can handle engine vibration, reinforce the
firewall with extra epoxy in the joints.
Tru-Turn’s 11/4-inch spinner hub is a great
final touch to the front end of the Hellcat.
The propeller is an APC 16 x 8.
The stock fuel tank is a custom fit inside the F6F. Exchange the
silicone fuel lines, and it’s compatible with the gas engine.
Photos by the author
Even with the Zenoah G-20, the cowling is
virtually complete. The author painted the
wheel wells to match the white belly.
A Spektrum radio system proved to be the optimal system for the
F6F. A healthy 2300 mAh JR receiver pack sits under the cockpit.
The G-20 is a great engine choice for 60-size warbirds from
Hangar 9.
used most of what was supplied, including the hinges, wheels, dummy
engine, and various nuts and bolts.
Assembly: The wing comes in three panels. Preinstalled retracts are
mounted on a center panel. The outer two are where the aileron servos
will be located in a handy hatch on the underside of both the port and
starboard panel. (I couldn’t resist using the naval terminology
there.)
Don’t skimp on your Hellcat’s retract servo. Use the one
recommended, which is a JR NES-791 high-torque, low-profile,
metal-gear unit that includes a servo wheel with an inch between its
connectors.
Servos with plastic gears will work in this sort of
application. However, they will strip the servo gear teeth out
after only a few operations. You could be flying and find that
you’re unable to get the gear up or, even worse for the model,
you won’t be able to get the gear down.
After you’re sure you have the tiny quick connectors positioned,
add the setscrew to each one. Once I was finished installing the
quick connectors, I uninstalled them. With a sharp cutting tool, I
trimmed the ends of the retract pushrods approximately one-and-ahalf
inches. This should provide plenty of pushrod to properly
actuate the mechanics.
It’s a good idea to label each servo lead coming out of the wing
and the fuselage. To do so, I used a P-Touch label maker; I made an
“L Aileron,” a “R Aileron,” and a “Retract.” Label the other servo
leads the same way, and you’re set.
Test the retract landing gear now; it is a
bad idea to wait. If you need to make
adjustments, doing so is much easier before
adding the outer wing panels. I followed
the instructions but increased the width of
the open area in the wing for the retract
servo by roughly a half inch on each side
of the precut retract-servo location.
With the retracts complete, add the spar
material for each outer wing panel. I finishsanded
both spars so that they fit perfectly.
Use only 30-minute epoxy for this
assembly.
Before adding the wheel wells, which
fit into the wing under the retract
mechanism, you might want to paint them
white, to match the underside of the wing,
instead of leaving them gray. Pull the
aileron extensions through the panels
before completely sealing the wheel
openings.
The cockpit interior is prepainted black.
It has an instrument decal, which quickly
sticks to the front of the cockpit panel.
There is also a plastic headrest, which
you need to trim. (I used a standard pair of
small, pointed scissors to do the cutting and
a pencil wrapped with sandpaper to finish
the edges.) Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo sealed the
headrest in place. The backing “armor
plate” that the headrest sits against is also
prepainted and installed for you, as is the
cockpit floor.
The prepainted canopy is well done. Use
a small pair of scissors to cut away the
excess trim. It’s better to cut two or three
times rather than make a mistake and take
too much off the first time.
At this point, I added the unpainted
Hangar 9 military pilot, which is made from
a soft molded material and is easy to trim.
To make it fit in the cockpit, I removed
approximately a half inch from the bottom
of the figure. I kept cutting and placing the
pilot back in the cockpit until I was happy
and had clearance for the canopy. I stuffed
the pilot with some of the cotton that came
with it, set it on a fitted 1/8 sheet of balsa,
and used epoxy to seal the two parts
together.
Our grandkids have water-based paint
sets in the shop that my wife bought at a
discount store. They cost close to $2.50, and
each set has a decent variety of colors. To
paint the pilot, select colors that look as
though they would go on a pilot’s uniform,
helmet, and goggles.
Using the brush that came with the paint
set, I added the colors to large sections such
as the head, body, and helmet. After letting
that dry, I went back and added details such
as lips and eyes with drops of paint on
toothpicks.
Documentation: For documentation on the
“white 13” color scheme, check out page 25
in Squadron/Signal Publications’ Aircraft
No. 36: F6F Hellcat in Action, which is
available from Amazon.com. Jim Sullivan
wrote the book, and Don Greer illustrated it.
A color side view on that page matches
the color scheme of Hangar 9’s model. The
full-scale aircraft is an F6F-3 of VF-16,
flying from the USS Lexington in December
1943. The pilot is unknown. This color side
view is all you need for documentation to
fly the model in Fun Scale competitions.
Engine: I used the Zenoah G-20: the
smallest of that brand of gas power plants.
They can swing a larger propeller and
develop more torque than most glowburning
two-stroke engines.
They also require an extra battery pack
for the ignition system and a place in the
model to install the ignition unit. I mounted
it above the engine mount and moved the
2300 mAh receiver battery pack into the aft
end of the fuselage, to help balance the
model.
To separate the ignition battery and the
receiver and its wiring, I mounted the
ignition battery as far forward as possible,
behind the firewall. With this power
combination, you will have to add ballast to
the Hellcat’s tail; you will be unable to
counter the gas engine’s weight without it.
I liked the ability to station the
carburetor and intake as well as the exhaust
pipe in almost any position I wanted. Both
are interchangeable from the right side to
the left. Screw the high-throttle screw on
the carburetor all the way in, and then turn
it out one complete turn and slightly less
than an additional quarter turn.
I used Coleman Camp Fuel with the
recommended two-stroke oil mix for the
F6F. I made this selection because that fuel
doesn’t stink in my van as gasoline does,
which is where the fuel can and model must
ride between flights. The G-20 runs great on
this fuel, which costs roughly half of what
glow fuel does.
You can use gasoline from the pump,
but the fumes can cause headaches. For
safety, always have a fire extinguisher
handy at the field and in the shop when
working on gas engines.
Flight: With only one tank of fuel run
through the engine for break-in, the Hellcat
was ready for its first flight. Alex Adams, a
fellow Nashville, Tennessee, modeler and
good friend, assumed the controls as I took
the flight shots.
The paved asphalt runway we use is
approximately 100 x 400 feet. We gave the
model most of the runway for takeoff at half
throttle, but it took to the air at maybe 75
feet.
Since the F6F is a warbird, you want to
gradually feed in throttle. If you “firewall”
it, you can end up with a ground loop or the
need for excessive rudder. Using the “slowthrottle”
method, the Hellcat needed no
rudder for takeoff. The G-20 never missed a
beat, and it idles wonderfully either upright
or inverted.
At the recommended throws on the
ailerons, it was a bit sensitive. But you can
easily adjust this with the radio system. The
model has good throttle authority
throughout the power range. The G-20
keeps it flying at a slower pace but has
plenty of torque and power for any
aerobatics.
The F6F’s retracts did what they were
supposed to when using the switch, and I
experienced no problems during the flights.
The retracts didn’t drag or hang down in
flight. When lowered, they locked into
position with no problems and held during
landings.
When properly balanced, this ARF stalls
straight ahead, the nose drops, and it
continues to mush along. This is what you
want in any model—especially a warbird:
no tip-stalling or snapping into a spin.
Additional flights to explore the
Hellcat’s flight envelope have also been a
joy. Just don’t let the ignition battery run
low. Two or so flights are all I’ll put on the
1200 mAh ignition battery before charging
it.
The model will tend to dive in turns
somewhat, and adding a bit of rudder and a
small amount of elevator will help make a
beautiful scale turn. And rolls are extremely
similar to military style, with a hump in the
middle, and they look realistic.
I only wish the model had flaps. It would
be just another option to play with; this
airplane doesn’t need them.
With the big, round cowl and a 16 x 8
propeller, this ARF slows quickly for final
approach. Don’t cut the throttle until after
you have made the final turn, and keep the
engine at high idle and let it start to sink;
you will be pleased with every flight.
I have flown this aircraft in varying
conditions, and it handles the wind well. As
do many warbirds, it punches through the
wind with no problems.
I enjoyed building the Hangar 9 Hellcat.
I’ve learned a lot about gas engines and
ignition systems with it. I’ve also learned
how you must keep the ignition components
separate from the receiver and its servos and
have found fuel sources.
Now I’m looking forward to changing
the F6F’s markings and adding some
details. MA
Stan Alexander
[email protected]
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Hangar 9/Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
www.hangar-9.com
Sources:
JR
(800) 338-4639
www.jrradios.com
Tower Hobbies
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Zap Glue
(760) 246-6462
www.zapglue.com
Du-Bro
(800) 848-9411
www.dubro.com
Sullivan Products
(410) 732-3500
www.sullivanproducts.com
Other Printed Reviews:
Model Airplane News: January 2007
Fly RC: February 2007