62 MODEL AVIATION
RAY FAGNANO JR.
Plane Talk: Sig Sun Dancer ARF
A fun model with structural and flight integrity
Stability? With just a touch of power, the Sun Dancer can sustain
this nose-high slow flight the length of the runway with no altitude
change.
This model’s top and bottom trim schemes are the same, so pay
attention to which side is up! The Brison 3.2 engine provides
plenty of power.
This classic biplane will draw attention at the field with both its appearance and its performance!
The Sun Dancer is capable of moderate to good 3-D flight
maneuvers. This knife edge in high alpha looks great! Smooth
control inputs are the key to aerobatics.
THE SUN DANCER arrived in a large box; it was well packed
to prevent any shipping damage. I removed all the components
and performed an inventory check to make sure everything was
there, and it was.
For a reason that escapes me, I can never get all the parts
back in the box and close it. Someday someone needs to tell me
why.
The model is built from plywood and balsa, using traditional
construction techniques. The structure is well designed; it’s strong
where required and light where stresses are lower. Access to the
inside of the fuselage for radio gear is through the bottom wing
opening and a cover that screws onto the bottom just behind the
firewall.
The wings come as four panels with symmetrical airfoils and
four ailerons. The wings are joined permanently with epoxy;
plywood is used for the joiners.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 62
+•
Exceptionally nice construction
• Beautiful covering job
• Great flight characteristics
-•
Throttle pushrod
• Top and bottom covering is the same
• Instructions could use more detail
(See text for explanation.)
April 2008 63
Pluses and Minuses
Model type: ARF
Wingspan: 71.5 inches
Wing area: 1,668 square inches
Length: 66 inches
Projected flying weight: 17-18 pounds
Weight as tested: 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces dry
Recommended engine: 3.2-4.2 cu. in.
gas
Engine used: Brison 3.2
Recommended radio: Four channels
with eight servos
Radio used: Hitec Eclipse 7 QPCM,
Fusion 9 receiver, four HS-625MG
servos, two HS-5625MG servos, one HS-
5645MG servo, one HS-425BB servo
Construction materials: Balsa, Lite Ply
Street price: $349.99
Specifications
Double-check to make sure that the wing-cabane mount holes are
centered on what will be the wing center.
Notice the four control-horn screws. This type of mounting keeps
the top of the control surface clean and smooth.
A small relief hole is cut in the bottom front of the cowl for the
muffler chamber to clear. Make sure it does not touch the cowl;
vibration cracks could result!
This is the proper orientation of the wing-mount bolts. The front
points forward and the back points rearward.
Each elevator has its own servo
mounted in the rear. Because the fuselage
in the rear is too narrow for the elevator
servos to mount opposite each other, they
are staggered with the right servo
mounting just behind the left.
The rudder is controlled by a pull-pull
system and an interior-mounted servo.
Nice guide tubes are already installed in
the fuselage at the pull-pull wire exits. The
cables cannot be removed once they are
fabricated; the ends will not fit through the
tube.
The cowl and wheel pants are
fiberglass and come painted to match the
covering; I wish my car had as nice of a
finish as these parts.
The airframe is covered in an
extraordinarily bright (the word “Sun” in
Sun Dancer applies) and tasteful threecolor
scheme using Oracover (also known
as UltraCote). The colors are Cad Yellow
(Oracover 33/UltraCote 872), Bright
Yellow (Oracover 32/UltraCote 889), and
Ferrari Red (Oracover 23/UltraCote 866).
The supplied hardware is of terrific
quality, and everything you will need is
supplied except servo horns. The landing
gear is aluminum; it’s beautifully finished
and seems to be stiff enough for the
airframe’s projected weight.
The cabanes are assembled with a
machined-nylon top wing mount installed.
They are finished in white. I thought that
was a bit odd because it was the only white
on the airplane, so I painted the windshield
frame white to keep the cabanes company.
I kept the instructions out and made a
list of everything I would need to build the
Sun Dancer, and then I ordered all the
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:27 PM Page 63
necessities. The instructions make the assumption that you have
some building experience, which is fine; this is not a model for a
beginner.
An addendum is included for a change in the wing structure. Be
sure you find it in your kit!
Assembly: With all components on hand, I began the building
process. The covering was perfect except for a few loose edges that
took less than five minutes to secure with a covering iron.
Pay careful attention to the wingtips, aileron edges, and edges
around the bottom hatch. There is little overlap, so set the iron to be
hot enough (I set mine at 225°) to just activate the glue; otherwise,
the covering can shrink and expose the wood beneath.
As with most ARFs, the instructions have you begin by using
epoxy to assemble the four wing panels to make two wings. The
upper wing has the cabane mounts, and it is vital that you get the
mount holes on center or the wing will not be square to the fuselage.
There are no alignment stops in the ends of the wing slots to
prevent the cabane mount from sliding in too far, and there are no
notches in the mount itself or any kind of indicating mark to assist
with this step. Take your time and align the holes directly over what
will become the wing center joint.
There are two wing joiners—one for each wing. The upper wing
is built flat; the lower wing has 3° of
dihedral. The remainder of the assembly is
straightforward.
I found it interesting that the control
horns are not through-bolted to the control
surfaces; they are held in place with four
wood screws. Inside the control surface is a
heavy plywood plate into which the screws
thread. At first this concerned me; I
wondered if they would be able to handle
the aerodynamic loads and heavy vibrations
of a gas engine.
However, my concerns turned out to be
unjustified. Throughout the test flights I
continually checked them, and not one
screw ever showed even a sign of loosening
or pulling out of its mount.
The next few steps are hinging the
control surfaces. The kit comes with pointtype
hinges that are predrilled for alignment.
Be sure to coat the pivot with petroleum
jelly to prevent the epoxy from entering.
I chose the Brison 3.2 engine. I have
used Brison power plants for many years
and have always liked their performance.
This engine is at the bottom of the
recommended power range, so I didn’t
expect unlimited vertical and rapid
acceleration from a hover. Yet it has been
my experience that if the manufacturer says
it will fly it, it will, and Sig has always been
fantastic in this area.
I found the fuselage to be a bit unstable
on the table, so I temporarily installed the
main gear to prevent movement. This is
where I ran into my first problem.
The instructions show the small exhaust
header that comes with the FPE engine, but
it is too loud for some of the places I fly. I
ordered a Pitts muffler because I thought it
would look better and quiet the engine more,
but it didn’t fit between the engine and the
firewall.
Therefore, I ordered a Bisson side mount.
As luck would have it, the side mount didn’t
fit inside the cowl; it touched the cowl at the
bottom of the chamber. I needed to cut a
small eyebrow in the front to clear the
corner of the chamber.
64 MODEL AVIATION
On the left is the factory-installed antenna tube. On the right is
the paper roll the author made to secure the servo wires. (See the
arrows.)
Hitec Digital Guidance
This may be the best radio setup I
have ever had. If you have ever gone
to the field only to wait for your
frequency pin to become available,
here’s the cure. The Spectra Module
goes in the back of the Hitec
transmitter, in place of the frequency
module, and you can dial in the
frequency you want to use.
Forget about a box full of crystals
for the receiver with this setup. The
new Hitec Fusion nine-channel
receiver is fully synthesized and will
work with positive or negative shift
PPM (pulse position modulation)
transmitters.
This full-function, nine-channel
receiver is loaded with features. It
has a range of 3.5 to 7.5 volts. In the
event of signal loss it has IPD
(intelligent pulse decoding), which
allows for hold or fail-safe functions.
Setup takes only a few seconds
for any channel in the 72 MHz range,
and the Fusion’s power drain is only
20 mA. All this in a 2.2 x 0.9 x 0.95-
inch box that weighs only 1.1
ounces.
The Sig Sun Dancer is a big
airplane and needs real servo power,
so I selected digitals for the back
end. I chose Hitec HS-5625MGs for
the elevators and a 5645MG for the
rudder. I felt that HS-625MGs would
be fine for the ailerons since there are
four of them and they exceed the
required torque.
I don’t like servo reversers and
MatchBoxes, so I have been using the
Hitec HFP-10 programmer for years.
The ability to set direction, center,
endpoints, speed, dead band, and a few
other things makes setup headache
free. If you haven’t tried it, you should;
you may never go back. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Hitec RCD USA
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Static photos by Ray Fagnano Jr. Flight photos by Ray Fagnano III
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:34 PM Page 64
April 2008 65
Balance a Wood Propeller
Balancing the propeller is a must on any airframe. There are a number
of ways to do it, some of which are better than others.
I started with a Pro Zinger 22 x 8. I sanded the entire propeller, with
400-grit paper, just enough to remove the finish’s surface shine. I
sprayed two coats of white paint, in this case Krylon (for glow engines
you must use fuelproof paint), on the whole thing.
After the paint cured I set the propeller in the balancer, marked the
light blade, and gave only that side another coat of white. It takes some
practice, but you will quickly get a feel for how much paint is needed.
Once I was satisfied with the balance, I painted an even amount of
fluorescent orange on the tips for visibility and gave the whole propeller
a coat of high-gloss clear.
The result is a smooth, well-balanced propeller that looks great. Best
of all, you can’t miss the disk area when the engine is running. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Zinger propellers:
J&Z Products
(310) 539-2313
www.zingerpropeller.com
I have been
using Brison
engines for many
years and now own
a total of six.
These power plants
have a pistonported
design,
meaning that the
carburetor sticks
out the side of the
cylinder and feeds
fuel directly into the cylinder and crankcase through holes, or
“ports,” in the piston skirt. All Brison engines have Nikasil-lined
cylinders by Makita/Dolmar for long life and an excellent ring
seal.
The crankcase is machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and
polished to a beautiful finish. It comes equipped with a Walbro
carburetor that contains its own fuel pump and choke. They are
powerful, easy to start, and even easier to set up. The engines are
run at the factory and come with the carburetors adjusted and ready
to go.
The newer versions have the Cimmaster auto advance
ignition, and I have had no problems with the three I own. The
ignition will run on any battery from 4.8-volt Ni-Cd to 7.2-
volt Lithium.
I use synthetic oil by Amsoil at a 60:1 ratio with 91 octane
gas. The fuel-consumption rate is roughly 1.5 ounces per
minute for my flying style. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Brison 3.2 engine:
Kangke Industrial USA Inc.
(631) 274-3058
www.brisonrcengines.com
www.kangkeusa.com
I installed the throttle servo and began
fabricating the control rod using the supplied
components. The threaded coupler that
connects the clevis to the nylon control rod
was too small; once threaded in, it could be
pulled out by hand. I replaced the control rod
with a medium-size Nyrod I had on the shelf.
I found a problem when mounting the
stabilizer. It’s always been a habit of mine to
ensure that the stabilizer is not only square
to the fuselage, but parallel to the main
wing. Measuring carefully, I found the
stabilizer to lean approximately 2° to the
left. It took roughly 30 minutes with a file
and sandpaper to carefully dress the
stabilizer mount to correct the problem.
When mounting the cabanes to the
fuselage, the front, upper wing-mount
Allen head should point forward and the
rear head should point backward, or you
can’t get the top wing on. The curve of the
airfoil’s bottom will contact the screws
and make it difficult to tighten with the
Allen wrench. This is not mentioned in the
instructions.
The factory installed a tube for the
antenna wire that exited the bottom of the
fuselage—a wonderful feature. If you have
never done this, I have a tip for you. Coat
the antenna wire with cornstarch or baby
powder and it will slide right through.
I have a preference when it comes to
routing servo wires; I do not like them
loose in the fuselage. I roll a paper tube
around a 5/8-inch dowel and glue it to the
inside of the fuselage so the wires can’t
flop around.
The remainder of the build was easy.
No ballast was needed and the wing
incidence was simple to set.
With a 2000 mAh, 6-volt NiMH
receiver battery and a 1500 mAh, 4.8-volt
Ni-Cd ignition battery, my model’s readyto-
fly weight was 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces—just less than the 17-18 pounds
listed in the factory specs.
The First Flight: As models get bigger
and heavier, the potential for damage or
injury becomes significantly greater; a
careful preflight is mandatory. After I
checked all the screws and the battery
status, I performed a range check with the
engine off.
I fired up the Brison and checked the
range again. At the limit of the range I
cycled the throttle slowly from idle to wide
open and carefully observed to see if
vibrations or RFI (radio frequency
interference) problems existed. With none
present, I was ready to go.
The CG was set at 4.9 inches back from
the top wing’s LE (approximately 27%
MAC [mean aerodynamic chord]), and all
the control throws were programmed to the
factory specs.
Slow taxi tests indicated a need to
adjust the tail-wheel center as the Sun
Dancer turned right with the rudder
Brison’s 3.2 Gasser
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 12:03 PM Page 65
centered, throttle at idle, and the model
rolling slowly. I shut down and corrected
this before going any further.
For takeoff I lined up the airplane with
the runway center and pushed the left stick
forward. Acceleration on asphalt was
much faster than I expected; a touch of
right rudder kept it nailed to the
centerline.
After roughly a 50-foot roll, the tail
was up. After 25 more feet, daylight was
under the mains. The climb was brisk, and
at approximately 100 feet above the
ground I turned the model around and
started to trim. The elevator took a touch
of down, rudder took a touch of right, and
the ailerons were on the button.
For the first few minutes I just gently
flew around the sky, making shallow turns
while I got accustomed to the flight
performance and the appearance of the
airframe. At roughly 200 feet I brought the
throttle back and fed in some elevator; the
stall was straightforward with a hint of left
wing drop. I repeated the stall test several
times, with the same results.
After maybe four minutes I throttled
back on a downwind leg to prepare for
landing. Holding a bit of power as I flew
final, the airplane was rock steady. At 2
feet above the runway I cut to an idle,
slowly feeding elevator as airspeed was
depleted. The Sun Dancer settled in on
three points without a hint of a bounce.
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66 MODEL AVIATION
Before I refueled I went over the
airframe from one end to the other. There
was not a single problem or loose screw.
I’m starting to think Loctite may be one
of the world’s greatest inventions.
With the first-flight jitters out of the
way, I began to push the airframe. This
model is a barnstormer’s delight. Loops
(inside or outside) can be as large as you
want, and they are things of beauty with
the outstanding trim scheme.
Rolls are surprisingly axial. With four
ailerons driving them they are much faster
than you would expect, and altitude loss
is minimal. Rolls can be flown from
horizon to horizon, using slight rudder
and elevator compensation. A word of
caution: the wing trim scheme is the same
on the top and bottom, so it is easy to get
disoriented.
Knife edge in the upper end of the
speed envelope showed coupling in both
pitch and roll, but it was nothing that
couldn’t be handled. It could have been
mixed out with programming in the radio,
but I didn’t feel it was necessary.
I was able to perform Four Point Rolls
with ease. I was impressed with the
rudder’s authority because it could yaw
the fuselage from right to left without
inducing severe roll coupling. I had a
blast making Flat Turns, Figure Eights,
and tail wags.
Hammerheads required a small burst
of power at the top to advance the rotation
rate. They appear to rotate around the
wingtip. You will need to stay on the
elevator during the down-line; there is
some divergence to pull toward the
canopy.
Snaps are easy but have a tendency to
over-rotate slightly—only 10° or so, but it
is noticeable. I quickly became
accustomed to this and was able to
perform a 540° snap from knife edge to
knife edge with consistency.
The Sun Dancer is a wonderful
airplane to fly, and it takes little time to
get comfortable with its handling. With
the sun shining on its bright colors, it has
a majestic beauty that only a biplane can
generate.
Advanced 3-D Flight: I don’t think this
airframe’s original design mission was 3-
D flight, and as-is it does not do very well
in this arena. Some maneuvers genuinely
impressed me and were totally
unexpected. I set the control throws to the
limit the surfaces would allow, but the
beveling on the hinge line limited this to
approximately 35°.
Elevators were rock solid with little
wing rock; however, more power was
needed than some would think would be
necessary. Roughly 25% power was
required to prevent the stall from breaking
and the nose from falling through the
horizon.
I also noticed how the Sun Dancer’s
attitude in the elevator is much more
nose-high than that of the other 3-D
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 66
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 62,63,64,65,66
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 62,63,64,65,66
62 MODEL AVIATION
RAY FAGNANO JR.
Plane Talk: Sig Sun Dancer ARF
A fun model with structural and flight integrity
Stability? With just a touch of power, the Sun Dancer can sustain
this nose-high slow flight the length of the runway with no altitude
change.
This model’s top and bottom trim schemes are the same, so pay
attention to which side is up! The Brison 3.2 engine provides
plenty of power.
This classic biplane will draw attention at the field with both its appearance and its performance!
The Sun Dancer is capable of moderate to good 3-D flight
maneuvers. This knife edge in high alpha looks great! Smooth
control inputs are the key to aerobatics.
THE SUN DANCER arrived in a large box; it was well packed
to prevent any shipping damage. I removed all the components
and performed an inventory check to make sure everything was
there, and it was.
For a reason that escapes me, I can never get all the parts
back in the box and close it. Someday someone needs to tell me
why.
The model is built from plywood and balsa, using traditional
construction techniques. The structure is well designed; it’s strong
where required and light where stresses are lower. Access to the
inside of the fuselage for radio gear is through the bottom wing
opening and a cover that screws onto the bottom just behind the
firewall.
The wings come as four panels with symmetrical airfoils and
four ailerons. The wings are joined permanently with epoxy;
plywood is used for the joiners.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 62
+•
Exceptionally nice construction
• Beautiful covering job
• Great flight characteristics
-•
Throttle pushrod
• Top and bottom covering is the same
• Instructions could use more detail
(See text for explanation.)
April 2008 63
Pluses and Minuses
Model type: ARF
Wingspan: 71.5 inches
Wing area: 1,668 square inches
Length: 66 inches
Projected flying weight: 17-18 pounds
Weight as tested: 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces dry
Recommended engine: 3.2-4.2 cu. in.
gas
Engine used: Brison 3.2
Recommended radio: Four channels
with eight servos
Radio used: Hitec Eclipse 7 QPCM,
Fusion 9 receiver, four HS-625MG
servos, two HS-5625MG servos, one HS-
5645MG servo, one HS-425BB servo
Construction materials: Balsa, Lite Ply
Street price: $349.99
Specifications
Double-check to make sure that the wing-cabane mount holes are
centered on what will be the wing center.
Notice the four control-horn screws. This type of mounting keeps
the top of the control surface clean and smooth.
A small relief hole is cut in the bottom front of the cowl for the
muffler chamber to clear. Make sure it does not touch the cowl;
vibration cracks could result!
This is the proper orientation of the wing-mount bolts. The front
points forward and the back points rearward.
Each elevator has its own servo
mounted in the rear. Because the fuselage
in the rear is too narrow for the elevator
servos to mount opposite each other, they
are staggered with the right servo
mounting just behind the left.
The rudder is controlled by a pull-pull
system and an interior-mounted servo.
Nice guide tubes are already installed in
the fuselage at the pull-pull wire exits. The
cables cannot be removed once they are
fabricated; the ends will not fit through the
tube.
The cowl and wheel pants are
fiberglass and come painted to match the
covering; I wish my car had as nice of a
finish as these parts.
The airframe is covered in an
extraordinarily bright (the word “Sun” in
Sun Dancer applies) and tasteful threecolor
scheme using Oracover (also known
as UltraCote). The colors are Cad Yellow
(Oracover 33/UltraCote 872), Bright
Yellow (Oracover 32/UltraCote 889), and
Ferrari Red (Oracover 23/UltraCote 866).
The supplied hardware is of terrific
quality, and everything you will need is
supplied except servo horns. The landing
gear is aluminum; it’s beautifully finished
and seems to be stiff enough for the
airframe’s projected weight.
The cabanes are assembled with a
machined-nylon top wing mount installed.
They are finished in white. I thought that
was a bit odd because it was the only white
on the airplane, so I painted the windshield
frame white to keep the cabanes company.
I kept the instructions out and made a
list of everything I would need to build the
Sun Dancer, and then I ordered all the
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:27 PM Page 63
necessities. The instructions make the assumption that you have
some building experience, which is fine; this is not a model for a
beginner.
An addendum is included for a change in the wing structure. Be
sure you find it in your kit!
Assembly: With all components on hand, I began the building
process. The covering was perfect except for a few loose edges that
took less than five minutes to secure with a covering iron.
Pay careful attention to the wingtips, aileron edges, and edges
around the bottom hatch. There is little overlap, so set the iron to be
hot enough (I set mine at 225°) to just activate the glue; otherwise,
the covering can shrink and expose the wood beneath.
As with most ARFs, the instructions have you begin by using
epoxy to assemble the four wing panels to make two wings. The
upper wing has the cabane mounts, and it is vital that you get the
mount holes on center or the wing will not be square to the fuselage.
There are no alignment stops in the ends of the wing slots to
prevent the cabane mount from sliding in too far, and there are no
notches in the mount itself or any kind of indicating mark to assist
with this step. Take your time and align the holes directly over what
will become the wing center joint.
There are two wing joiners—one for each wing. The upper wing
is built flat; the lower wing has 3° of
dihedral. The remainder of the assembly is
straightforward.
I found it interesting that the control
horns are not through-bolted to the control
surfaces; they are held in place with four
wood screws. Inside the control surface is a
heavy plywood plate into which the screws
thread. At first this concerned me; I
wondered if they would be able to handle
the aerodynamic loads and heavy vibrations
of a gas engine.
However, my concerns turned out to be
unjustified. Throughout the test flights I
continually checked them, and not one
screw ever showed even a sign of loosening
or pulling out of its mount.
The next few steps are hinging the
control surfaces. The kit comes with pointtype
hinges that are predrilled for alignment.
Be sure to coat the pivot with petroleum
jelly to prevent the epoxy from entering.
I chose the Brison 3.2 engine. I have
used Brison power plants for many years
and have always liked their performance.
This engine is at the bottom of the
recommended power range, so I didn’t
expect unlimited vertical and rapid
acceleration from a hover. Yet it has been
my experience that if the manufacturer says
it will fly it, it will, and Sig has always been
fantastic in this area.
I found the fuselage to be a bit unstable
on the table, so I temporarily installed the
main gear to prevent movement. This is
where I ran into my first problem.
The instructions show the small exhaust
header that comes with the FPE engine, but
it is too loud for some of the places I fly. I
ordered a Pitts muffler because I thought it
would look better and quiet the engine more,
but it didn’t fit between the engine and the
firewall.
Therefore, I ordered a Bisson side mount.
As luck would have it, the side mount didn’t
fit inside the cowl; it touched the cowl at the
bottom of the chamber. I needed to cut a
small eyebrow in the front to clear the
corner of the chamber.
64 MODEL AVIATION
On the left is the factory-installed antenna tube. On the right is
the paper roll the author made to secure the servo wires. (See the
arrows.)
Hitec Digital Guidance
This may be the best radio setup I
have ever had. If you have ever gone
to the field only to wait for your
frequency pin to become available,
here’s the cure. The Spectra Module
goes in the back of the Hitec
transmitter, in place of the frequency
module, and you can dial in the
frequency you want to use.
Forget about a box full of crystals
for the receiver with this setup. The
new Hitec Fusion nine-channel
receiver is fully synthesized and will
work with positive or negative shift
PPM (pulse position modulation)
transmitters.
This full-function, nine-channel
receiver is loaded with features. It
has a range of 3.5 to 7.5 volts. In the
event of signal loss it has IPD
(intelligent pulse decoding), which
allows for hold or fail-safe functions.
Setup takes only a few seconds
for any channel in the 72 MHz range,
and the Fusion’s power drain is only
20 mA. All this in a 2.2 x 0.9 x 0.95-
inch box that weighs only 1.1
ounces.
The Sig Sun Dancer is a big
airplane and needs real servo power,
so I selected digitals for the back
end. I chose Hitec HS-5625MGs for
the elevators and a 5645MG for the
rudder. I felt that HS-625MGs would
be fine for the ailerons since there are
four of them and they exceed the
required torque.
I don’t like servo reversers and
MatchBoxes, so I have been using the
Hitec HFP-10 programmer for years.
The ability to set direction, center,
endpoints, speed, dead band, and a few
other things makes setup headache
free. If you haven’t tried it, you should;
you may never go back. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Hitec RCD USA
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Static photos by Ray Fagnano Jr. Flight photos by Ray Fagnano III
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:34 PM Page 64
April 2008 65
Balance a Wood Propeller
Balancing the propeller is a must on any airframe. There are a number
of ways to do it, some of which are better than others.
I started with a Pro Zinger 22 x 8. I sanded the entire propeller, with
400-grit paper, just enough to remove the finish’s surface shine. I
sprayed two coats of white paint, in this case Krylon (for glow engines
you must use fuelproof paint), on the whole thing.
After the paint cured I set the propeller in the balancer, marked the
light blade, and gave only that side another coat of white. It takes some
practice, but you will quickly get a feel for how much paint is needed.
Once I was satisfied with the balance, I painted an even amount of
fluorescent orange on the tips for visibility and gave the whole propeller
a coat of high-gloss clear.
The result is a smooth, well-balanced propeller that looks great. Best
of all, you can’t miss the disk area when the engine is running. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Zinger propellers:
J&Z Products
(310) 539-2313
www.zingerpropeller.com
I have been
using Brison
engines for many
years and now own
a total of six.
These power plants
have a pistonported
design,
meaning that the
carburetor sticks
out the side of the
cylinder and feeds
fuel directly into the cylinder and crankcase through holes, or
“ports,” in the piston skirt. All Brison engines have Nikasil-lined
cylinders by Makita/Dolmar for long life and an excellent ring
seal.
The crankcase is machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and
polished to a beautiful finish. It comes equipped with a Walbro
carburetor that contains its own fuel pump and choke. They are
powerful, easy to start, and even easier to set up. The engines are
run at the factory and come with the carburetors adjusted and ready
to go.
The newer versions have the Cimmaster auto advance
ignition, and I have had no problems with the three I own. The
ignition will run on any battery from 4.8-volt Ni-Cd to 7.2-
volt Lithium.
I use synthetic oil by Amsoil at a 60:1 ratio with 91 octane
gas. The fuel-consumption rate is roughly 1.5 ounces per
minute for my flying style. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Brison 3.2 engine:
Kangke Industrial USA Inc.
(631) 274-3058
www.brisonrcengines.com
www.kangkeusa.com
I installed the throttle servo and began
fabricating the control rod using the supplied
components. The threaded coupler that
connects the clevis to the nylon control rod
was too small; once threaded in, it could be
pulled out by hand. I replaced the control rod
with a medium-size Nyrod I had on the shelf.
I found a problem when mounting the
stabilizer. It’s always been a habit of mine to
ensure that the stabilizer is not only square
to the fuselage, but parallel to the main
wing. Measuring carefully, I found the
stabilizer to lean approximately 2° to the
left. It took roughly 30 minutes with a file
and sandpaper to carefully dress the
stabilizer mount to correct the problem.
When mounting the cabanes to the
fuselage, the front, upper wing-mount
Allen head should point forward and the
rear head should point backward, or you
can’t get the top wing on. The curve of the
airfoil’s bottom will contact the screws
and make it difficult to tighten with the
Allen wrench. This is not mentioned in the
instructions.
The factory installed a tube for the
antenna wire that exited the bottom of the
fuselage—a wonderful feature. If you have
never done this, I have a tip for you. Coat
the antenna wire with cornstarch or baby
powder and it will slide right through.
I have a preference when it comes to
routing servo wires; I do not like them
loose in the fuselage. I roll a paper tube
around a 5/8-inch dowel and glue it to the
inside of the fuselage so the wires can’t
flop around.
The remainder of the build was easy.
No ballast was needed and the wing
incidence was simple to set.
With a 2000 mAh, 6-volt NiMH
receiver battery and a 1500 mAh, 4.8-volt
Ni-Cd ignition battery, my model’s readyto-
fly weight was 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces—just less than the 17-18 pounds
listed in the factory specs.
The First Flight: As models get bigger
and heavier, the potential for damage or
injury becomes significantly greater; a
careful preflight is mandatory. After I
checked all the screws and the battery
status, I performed a range check with the
engine off.
I fired up the Brison and checked the
range again. At the limit of the range I
cycled the throttle slowly from idle to wide
open and carefully observed to see if
vibrations or RFI (radio frequency
interference) problems existed. With none
present, I was ready to go.
The CG was set at 4.9 inches back from
the top wing’s LE (approximately 27%
MAC [mean aerodynamic chord]), and all
the control throws were programmed to the
factory specs.
Slow taxi tests indicated a need to
adjust the tail-wheel center as the Sun
Dancer turned right with the rudder
Brison’s 3.2 Gasser
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 12:03 PM Page 65
centered, throttle at idle, and the model
rolling slowly. I shut down and corrected
this before going any further.
For takeoff I lined up the airplane with
the runway center and pushed the left stick
forward. Acceleration on asphalt was
much faster than I expected; a touch of
right rudder kept it nailed to the
centerline.
After roughly a 50-foot roll, the tail
was up. After 25 more feet, daylight was
under the mains. The climb was brisk, and
at approximately 100 feet above the
ground I turned the model around and
started to trim. The elevator took a touch
of down, rudder took a touch of right, and
the ailerons were on the button.
For the first few minutes I just gently
flew around the sky, making shallow turns
while I got accustomed to the flight
performance and the appearance of the
airframe. At roughly 200 feet I brought the
throttle back and fed in some elevator; the
stall was straightforward with a hint of left
wing drop. I repeated the stall test several
times, with the same results.
After maybe four minutes I throttled
back on a downwind leg to prepare for
landing. Holding a bit of power as I flew
final, the airplane was rock steady. At 2
feet above the runway I cut to an idle,
slowly feeding elevator as airspeed was
depleted. The Sun Dancer settled in on
three points without a hint of a bounce.
WHY WORRY?
THE HIGH CURRENT ALTERNATIVE TO LI-POLYMER
NOW AVAILABLE FOR RX, POWERBOX & ECU APPLICATIONS
• Take the worry out of charging with li-manganese chemistry
• No risk of fire if punctured or overcharged
• 20c discharge - 40c bursts
• High charge rate – up to 10c through the power lead
• No need to remove for charging
• No need to balance pack – built with Stay Balance Circuitry
• Great low temperature tolerance
• Longer life cycles than Li-Polymers
• Wiring options; 16 gauge High Current, 14 gauge Electric
Motor / Flight applications
• See our new expanded line of li-manganese batteries online
LITHIUM POWER SOLUTIONS FOR EVERYTHING YOU FLY
Order toll free 877-744-3685
Shop online www.duraliteflightsystems.com
LI-MANGANESE BATTERIES
ARE NON-FLAMMABLE!
66 MODEL AVIATION
Before I refueled I went over the
airframe from one end to the other. There
was not a single problem or loose screw.
I’m starting to think Loctite may be one
of the world’s greatest inventions.
With the first-flight jitters out of the
way, I began to push the airframe. This
model is a barnstormer’s delight. Loops
(inside or outside) can be as large as you
want, and they are things of beauty with
the outstanding trim scheme.
Rolls are surprisingly axial. With four
ailerons driving them they are much faster
than you would expect, and altitude loss
is minimal. Rolls can be flown from
horizon to horizon, using slight rudder
and elevator compensation. A word of
caution: the wing trim scheme is the same
on the top and bottom, so it is easy to get
disoriented.
Knife edge in the upper end of the
speed envelope showed coupling in both
pitch and roll, but it was nothing that
couldn’t be handled. It could have been
mixed out with programming in the radio,
but I didn’t feel it was necessary.
I was able to perform Four Point Rolls
with ease. I was impressed with the
rudder’s authority because it could yaw
the fuselage from right to left without
inducing severe roll coupling. I had a
blast making Flat Turns, Figure Eights,
and tail wags.
Hammerheads required a small burst
of power at the top to advance the rotation
rate. They appear to rotate around the
wingtip. You will need to stay on the
elevator during the down-line; there is
some divergence to pull toward the
canopy.
Snaps are easy but have a tendency to
over-rotate slightly—only 10° or so, but it
is noticeable. I quickly became
accustomed to this and was able to
perform a 540° snap from knife edge to
knife edge with consistency.
The Sun Dancer is a wonderful
airplane to fly, and it takes little time to
get comfortable with its handling. With
the sun shining on its bright colors, it has
a majestic beauty that only a biplane can
generate.
Advanced 3-D Flight: I don’t think this
airframe’s original design mission was 3-
D flight, and as-is it does not do very well
in this arena. Some maneuvers genuinely
impressed me and were totally
unexpected. I set the control throws to the
limit the surfaces would allow, but the
beveling on the hinge line limited this to
approximately 35°.
Elevators were rock solid with little
wing rock; however, more power was
needed than some would think would be
necessary. Roughly 25% power was
required to prevent the stall from breaking
and the nose from falling through the
horizon.
I also noticed how the Sun Dancer’s
attitude in the elevator is much more
nose-high than that of the other 3-D
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 66
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 62,63,64,65,66
62 MODEL AVIATION
RAY FAGNANO JR.
Plane Talk: Sig Sun Dancer ARF
A fun model with structural and flight integrity
Stability? With just a touch of power, the Sun Dancer can sustain
this nose-high slow flight the length of the runway with no altitude
change.
This model’s top and bottom trim schemes are the same, so pay
attention to which side is up! The Brison 3.2 engine provides
plenty of power.
This classic biplane will draw attention at the field with both its appearance and its performance!
The Sun Dancer is capable of moderate to good 3-D flight
maneuvers. This knife edge in high alpha looks great! Smooth
control inputs are the key to aerobatics.
THE SUN DANCER arrived in a large box; it was well packed
to prevent any shipping damage. I removed all the components
and performed an inventory check to make sure everything was
there, and it was.
For a reason that escapes me, I can never get all the parts
back in the box and close it. Someday someone needs to tell me
why.
The model is built from plywood and balsa, using traditional
construction techniques. The structure is well designed; it’s strong
where required and light where stresses are lower. Access to the
inside of the fuselage for radio gear is through the bottom wing
opening and a cover that screws onto the bottom just behind the
firewall.
The wings come as four panels with symmetrical airfoils and
four ailerons. The wings are joined permanently with epoxy;
plywood is used for the joiners.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 62
+•
Exceptionally nice construction
• Beautiful covering job
• Great flight characteristics
-•
Throttle pushrod
• Top and bottom covering is the same
• Instructions could use more detail
(See text for explanation.)
April 2008 63
Pluses and Minuses
Model type: ARF
Wingspan: 71.5 inches
Wing area: 1,668 square inches
Length: 66 inches
Projected flying weight: 17-18 pounds
Weight as tested: 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces dry
Recommended engine: 3.2-4.2 cu. in.
gas
Engine used: Brison 3.2
Recommended radio: Four channels
with eight servos
Radio used: Hitec Eclipse 7 QPCM,
Fusion 9 receiver, four HS-625MG
servos, two HS-5625MG servos, one HS-
5645MG servo, one HS-425BB servo
Construction materials: Balsa, Lite Ply
Street price: $349.99
Specifications
Double-check to make sure that the wing-cabane mount holes are
centered on what will be the wing center.
Notice the four control-horn screws. This type of mounting keeps
the top of the control surface clean and smooth.
A small relief hole is cut in the bottom front of the cowl for the
muffler chamber to clear. Make sure it does not touch the cowl;
vibration cracks could result!
This is the proper orientation of the wing-mount bolts. The front
points forward and the back points rearward.
Each elevator has its own servo
mounted in the rear. Because the fuselage
in the rear is too narrow for the elevator
servos to mount opposite each other, they
are staggered with the right servo
mounting just behind the left.
The rudder is controlled by a pull-pull
system and an interior-mounted servo.
Nice guide tubes are already installed in
the fuselage at the pull-pull wire exits. The
cables cannot be removed once they are
fabricated; the ends will not fit through the
tube.
The cowl and wheel pants are
fiberglass and come painted to match the
covering; I wish my car had as nice of a
finish as these parts.
The airframe is covered in an
extraordinarily bright (the word “Sun” in
Sun Dancer applies) and tasteful threecolor
scheme using Oracover (also known
as UltraCote). The colors are Cad Yellow
(Oracover 33/UltraCote 872), Bright
Yellow (Oracover 32/UltraCote 889), and
Ferrari Red (Oracover 23/UltraCote 866).
The supplied hardware is of terrific
quality, and everything you will need is
supplied except servo horns. The landing
gear is aluminum; it’s beautifully finished
and seems to be stiff enough for the
airframe’s projected weight.
The cabanes are assembled with a
machined-nylon top wing mount installed.
They are finished in white. I thought that
was a bit odd because it was the only white
on the airplane, so I painted the windshield
frame white to keep the cabanes company.
I kept the instructions out and made a
list of everything I would need to build the
Sun Dancer, and then I ordered all the
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:27 PM Page 63
necessities. The instructions make the assumption that you have
some building experience, which is fine; this is not a model for a
beginner.
An addendum is included for a change in the wing structure. Be
sure you find it in your kit!
Assembly: With all components on hand, I began the building
process. The covering was perfect except for a few loose edges that
took less than five minutes to secure with a covering iron.
Pay careful attention to the wingtips, aileron edges, and edges
around the bottom hatch. There is little overlap, so set the iron to be
hot enough (I set mine at 225°) to just activate the glue; otherwise,
the covering can shrink and expose the wood beneath.
As with most ARFs, the instructions have you begin by using
epoxy to assemble the four wing panels to make two wings. The
upper wing has the cabane mounts, and it is vital that you get the
mount holes on center or the wing will not be square to the fuselage.
There are no alignment stops in the ends of the wing slots to
prevent the cabane mount from sliding in too far, and there are no
notches in the mount itself or any kind of indicating mark to assist
with this step. Take your time and align the holes directly over what
will become the wing center joint.
There are two wing joiners—one for each wing. The upper wing
is built flat; the lower wing has 3° of
dihedral. The remainder of the assembly is
straightforward.
I found it interesting that the control
horns are not through-bolted to the control
surfaces; they are held in place with four
wood screws. Inside the control surface is a
heavy plywood plate into which the screws
thread. At first this concerned me; I
wondered if they would be able to handle
the aerodynamic loads and heavy vibrations
of a gas engine.
However, my concerns turned out to be
unjustified. Throughout the test flights I
continually checked them, and not one
screw ever showed even a sign of loosening
or pulling out of its mount.
The next few steps are hinging the
control surfaces. The kit comes with pointtype
hinges that are predrilled for alignment.
Be sure to coat the pivot with petroleum
jelly to prevent the epoxy from entering.
I chose the Brison 3.2 engine. I have
used Brison power plants for many years
and have always liked their performance.
This engine is at the bottom of the
recommended power range, so I didn’t
expect unlimited vertical and rapid
acceleration from a hover. Yet it has been
my experience that if the manufacturer says
it will fly it, it will, and Sig has always been
fantastic in this area.
I found the fuselage to be a bit unstable
on the table, so I temporarily installed the
main gear to prevent movement. This is
where I ran into my first problem.
The instructions show the small exhaust
header that comes with the FPE engine, but
it is too loud for some of the places I fly. I
ordered a Pitts muffler because I thought it
would look better and quiet the engine more,
but it didn’t fit between the engine and the
firewall.
Therefore, I ordered a Bisson side mount.
As luck would have it, the side mount didn’t
fit inside the cowl; it touched the cowl at the
bottom of the chamber. I needed to cut a
small eyebrow in the front to clear the
corner of the chamber.
64 MODEL AVIATION
On the left is the factory-installed antenna tube. On the right is
the paper roll the author made to secure the servo wires. (See the
arrows.)
Hitec Digital Guidance
This may be the best radio setup I
have ever had. If you have ever gone
to the field only to wait for your
frequency pin to become available,
here’s the cure. The Spectra Module
goes in the back of the Hitec
transmitter, in place of the frequency
module, and you can dial in the
frequency you want to use.
Forget about a box full of crystals
for the receiver with this setup. The
new Hitec Fusion nine-channel
receiver is fully synthesized and will
work with positive or negative shift
PPM (pulse position modulation)
transmitters.
This full-function, nine-channel
receiver is loaded with features. It
has a range of 3.5 to 7.5 volts. In the
event of signal loss it has IPD
(intelligent pulse decoding), which
allows for hold or fail-safe functions.
Setup takes only a few seconds
for any channel in the 72 MHz range,
and the Fusion’s power drain is only
20 mA. All this in a 2.2 x 0.9 x 0.95-
inch box that weighs only 1.1
ounces.
The Sig Sun Dancer is a big
airplane and needs real servo power,
so I selected digitals for the back
end. I chose Hitec HS-5625MGs for
the elevators and a 5645MG for the
rudder. I felt that HS-625MGs would
be fine for the ailerons since there are
four of them and they exceed the
required torque.
I don’t like servo reversers and
MatchBoxes, so I have been using the
Hitec HFP-10 programmer for years.
The ability to set direction, center,
endpoints, speed, dead band, and a few
other things makes setup headache
free. If you haven’t tried it, you should;
you may never go back. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Hitec RCD USA
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Static photos by Ray Fagnano Jr. Flight photos by Ray Fagnano III
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:34 PM Page 64
April 2008 65
Balance a Wood Propeller
Balancing the propeller is a must on any airframe. There are a number
of ways to do it, some of which are better than others.
I started with a Pro Zinger 22 x 8. I sanded the entire propeller, with
400-grit paper, just enough to remove the finish’s surface shine. I
sprayed two coats of white paint, in this case Krylon (for glow engines
you must use fuelproof paint), on the whole thing.
After the paint cured I set the propeller in the balancer, marked the
light blade, and gave only that side another coat of white. It takes some
practice, but you will quickly get a feel for how much paint is needed.
Once I was satisfied with the balance, I painted an even amount of
fluorescent orange on the tips for visibility and gave the whole propeller
a coat of high-gloss clear.
The result is a smooth, well-balanced propeller that looks great. Best
of all, you can’t miss the disk area when the engine is running. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Zinger propellers:
J&Z Products
(310) 539-2313
www.zingerpropeller.com
I have been
using Brison
engines for many
years and now own
a total of six.
These power plants
have a pistonported
design,
meaning that the
carburetor sticks
out the side of the
cylinder and feeds
fuel directly into the cylinder and crankcase through holes, or
“ports,” in the piston skirt. All Brison engines have Nikasil-lined
cylinders by Makita/Dolmar for long life and an excellent ring
seal.
The crankcase is machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and
polished to a beautiful finish. It comes equipped with a Walbro
carburetor that contains its own fuel pump and choke. They are
powerful, easy to start, and even easier to set up. The engines are
run at the factory and come with the carburetors adjusted and ready
to go.
The newer versions have the Cimmaster auto advance
ignition, and I have had no problems with the three I own. The
ignition will run on any battery from 4.8-volt Ni-Cd to 7.2-
volt Lithium.
I use synthetic oil by Amsoil at a 60:1 ratio with 91 octane
gas. The fuel-consumption rate is roughly 1.5 ounces per
minute for my flying style. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Brison 3.2 engine:
Kangke Industrial USA Inc.
(631) 274-3058
www.brisonrcengines.com
www.kangkeusa.com
I installed the throttle servo and began
fabricating the control rod using the supplied
components. The threaded coupler that
connects the clevis to the nylon control rod
was too small; once threaded in, it could be
pulled out by hand. I replaced the control rod
with a medium-size Nyrod I had on the shelf.
I found a problem when mounting the
stabilizer. It’s always been a habit of mine to
ensure that the stabilizer is not only square
to the fuselage, but parallel to the main
wing. Measuring carefully, I found the
stabilizer to lean approximately 2° to the
left. It took roughly 30 minutes with a file
and sandpaper to carefully dress the
stabilizer mount to correct the problem.
When mounting the cabanes to the
fuselage, the front, upper wing-mount
Allen head should point forward and the
rear head should point backward, or you
can’t get the top wing on. The curve of the
airfoil’s bottom will contact the screws
and make it difficult to tighten with the
Allen wrench. This is not mentioned in the
instructions.
The factory installed a tube for the
antenna wire that exited the bottom of the
fuselage—a wonderful feature. If you have
never done this, I have a tip for you. Coat
the antenna wire with cornstarch or baby
powder and it will slide right through.
I have a preference when it comes to
routing servo wires; I do not like them
loose in the fuselage. I roll a paper tube
around a 5/8-inch dowel and glue it to the
inside of the fuselage so the wires can’t
flop around.
The remainder of the build was easy.
No ballast was needed and the wing
incidence was simple to set.
With a 2000 mAh, 6-volt NiMH
receiver battery and a 1500 mAh, 4.8-volt
Ni-Cd ignition battery, my model’s readyto-
fly weight was 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces—just less than the 17-18 pounds
listed in the factory specs.
The First Flight: As models get bigger
and heavier, the potential for damage or
injury becomes significantly greater; a
careful preflight is mandatory. After I
checked all the screws and the battery
status, I performed a range check with the
engine off.
I fired up the Brison and checked the
range again. At the limit of the range I
cycled the throttle slowly from idle to wide
open and carefully observed to see if
vibrations or RFI (radio frequency
interference) problems existed. With none
present, I was ready to go.
The CG was set at 4.9 inches back from
the top wing’s LE (approximately 27%
MAC [mean aerodynamic chord]), and all
the control throws were programmed to the
factory specs.
Slow taxi tests indicated a need to
adjust the tail-wheel center as the Sun
Dancer turned right with the rudder
Brison’s 3.2 Gasser
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 12:03 PM Page 65
centered, throttle at idle, and the model
rolling slowly. I shut down and corrected
this before going any further.
For takeoff I lined up the airplane with
the runway center and pushed the left stick
forward. Acceleration on asphalt was
much faster than I expected; a touch of
right rudder kept it nailed to the
centerline.
After roughly a 50-foot roll, the tail
was up. After 25 more feet, daylight was
under the mains. The climb was brisk, and
at approximately 100 feet above the
ground I turned the model around and
started to trim. The elevator took a touch
of down, rudder took a touch of right, and
the ailerons were on the button.
For the first few minutes I just gently
flew around the sky, making shallow turns
while I got accustomed to the flight
performance and the appearance of the
airframe. At roughly 200 feet I brought the
throttle back and fed in some elevator; the
stall was straightforward with a hint of left
wing drop. I repeated the stall test several
times, with the same results.
After maybe four minutes I throttled
back on a downwind leg to prepare for
landing. Holding a bit of power as I flew
final, the airplane was rock steady. At 2
feet above the runway I cut to an idle,
slowly feeding elevator as airspeed was
depleted. The Sun Dancer settled in on
three points without a hint of a bounce.
WHY WORRY?
THE HIGH CURRENT ALTERNATIVE TO LI-POLYMER
NOW AVAILABLE FOR RX, POWERBOX & ECU APPLICATIONS
• Take the worry out of charging with li-manganese chemistry
• No risk of fire if punctured or overcharged
• 20c discharge - 40c bursts
• High charge rate – up to 10c through the power lead
• No need to remove for charging
• No need to balance pack – built with Stay Balance Circuitry
• Great low temperature tolerance
• Longer life cycles than Li-Polymers
• Wiring options; 16 gauge High Current, 14 gauge Electric
Motor / Flight applications
• See our new expanded line of li-manganese batteries online
LITHIUM POWER SOLUTIONS FOR EVERYTHING YOU FLY
Order toll free 877-744-3685
Shop online www.duraliteflightsystems.com
LI-MANGANESE BATTERIES
ARE NON-FLAMMABLE!
66 MODEL AVIATION
Before I refueled I went over the
airframe from one end to the other. There
was not a single problem or loose screw.
I’m starting to think Loctite may be one
of the world’s greatest inventions.
With the first-flight jitters out of the
way, I began to push the airframe. This
model is a barnstormer’s delight. Loops
(inside or outside) can be as large as you
want, and they are things of beauty with
the outstanding trim scheme.
Rolls are surprisingly axial. With four
ailerons driving them they are much faster
than you would expect, and altitude loss
is minimal. Rolls can be flown from
horizon to horizon, using slight rudder
and elevator compensation. A word of
caution: the wing trim scheme is the same
on the top and bottom, so it is easy to get
disoriented.
Knife edge in the upper end of the
speed envelope showed coupling in both
pitch and roll, but it was nothing that
couldn’t be handled. It could have been
mixed out with programming in the radio,
but I didn’t feel it was necessary.
I was able to perform Four Point Rolls
with ease. I was impressed with the
rudder’s authority because it could yaw
the fuselage from right to left without
inducing severe roll coupling. I had a
blast making Flat Turns, Figure Eights,
and tail wags.
Hammerheads required a small burst
of power at the top to advance the rotation
rate. They appear to rotate around the
wingtip. You will need to stay on the
elevator during the down-line; there is
some divergence to pull toward the
canopy.
Snaps are easy but have a tendency to
over-rotate slightly—only 10° or so, but it
is noticeable. I quickly became
accustomed to this and was able to
perform a 540° snap from knife edge to
knife edge with consistency.
The Sun Dancer is a wonderful
airplane to fly, and it takes little time to
get comfortable with its handling. With
the sun shining on its bright colors, it has
a majestic beauty that only a biplane can
generate.
Advanced 3-D Flight: I don’t think this
airframe’s original design mission was 3-
D flight, and as-is it does not do very well
in this arena. Some maneuvers genuinely
impressed me and were totally
unexpected. I set the control throws to the
limit the surfaces would allow, but the
beveling on the hinge line limited this to
approximately 35°.
Elevators were rock solid with little
wing rock; however, more power was
needed than some would think would be
necessary. Roughly 25% power was
required to prevent the stall from breaking
and the nose from falling through the
horizon.
I also noticed how the Sun Dancer’s
attitude in the elevator is much more
nose-high than that of the other 3-D
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 66
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 62,63,64,65,66
62 MODEL AVIATION
RAY FAGNANO JR.
Plane Talk: Sig Sun Dancer ARF
A fun model with structural and flight integrity
Stability? With just a touch of power, the Sun Dancer can sustain
this nose-high slow flight the length of the runway with no altitude
change.
This model’s top and bottom trim schemes are the same, so pay
attention to which side is up! The Brison 3.2 engine provides
plenty of power.
This classic biplane will draw attention at the field with both its appearance and its performance!
The Sun Dancer is capable of moderate to good 3-D flight
maneuvers. This knife edge in high alpha looks great! Smooth
control inputs are the key to aerobatics.
THE SUN DANCER arrived in a large box; it was well packed
to prevent any shipping damage. I removed all the components
and performed an inventory check to make sure everything was
there, and it was.
For a reason that escapes me, I can never get all the parts
back in the box and close it. Someday someone needs to tell me
why.
The model is built from plywood and balsa, using traditional
construction techniques. The structure is well designed; it’s strong
where required and light where stresses are lower. Access to the
inside of the fuselage for radio gear is through the bottom wing
opening and a cover that screws onto the bottom just behind the
firewall.
The wings come as four panels with symmetrical airfoils and
four ailerons. The wings are joined permanently with epoxy;
plywood is used for the joiners.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 62
+•
Exceptionally nice construction
• Beautiful covering job
• Great flight characteristics
-•
Throttle pushrod
• Top and bottom covering is the same
• Instructions could use more detail
(See text for explanation.)
April 2008 63
Pluses and Minuses
Model type: ARF
Wingspan: 71.5 inches
Wing area: 1,668 square inches
Length: 66 inches
Projected flying weight: 17-18 pounds
Weight as tested: 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces dry
Recommended engine: 3.2-4.2 cu. in.
gas
Engine used: Brison 3.2
Recommended radio: Four channels
with eight servos
Radio used: Hitec Eclipse 7 QPCM,
Fusion 9 receiver, four HS-625MG
servos, two HS-5625MG servos, one HS-
5645MG servo, one HS-425BB servo
Construction materials: Balsa, Lite Ply
Street price: $349.99
Specifications
Double-check to make sure that the wing-cabane mount holes are
centered on what will be the wing center.
Notice the four control-horn screws. This type of mounting keeps
the top of the control surface clean and smooth.
A small relief hole is cut in the bottom front of the cowl for the
muffler chamber to clear. Make sure it does not touch the cowl;
vibration cracks could result!
This is the proper orientation of the wing-mount bolts. The front
points forward and the back points rearward.
Each elevator has its own servo
mounted in the rear. Because the fuselage
in the rear is too narrow for the elevator
servos to mount opposite each other, they
are staggered with the right servo
mounting just behind the left.
The rudder is controlled by a pull-pull
system and an interior-mounted servo.
Nice guide tubes are already installed in
the fuselage at the pull-pull wire exits. The
cables cannot be removed once they are
fabricated; the ends will not fit through the
tube.
The cowl and wheel pants are
fiberglass and come painted to match the
covering; I wish my car had as nice of a
finish as these parts.
The airframe is covered in an
extraordinarily bright (the word “Sun” in
Sun Dancer applies) and tasteful threecolor
scheme using Oracover (also known
as UltraCote). The colors are Cad Yellow
(Oracover 33/UltraCote 872), Bright
Yellow (Oracover 32/UltraCote 889), and
Ferrari Red (Oracover 23/UltraCote 866).
The supplied hardware is of terrific
quality, and everything you will need is
supplied except servo horns. The landing
gear is aluminum; it’s beautifully finished
and seems to be stiff enough for the
airframe’s projected weight.
The cabanes are assembled with a
machined-nylon top wing mount installed.
They are finished in white. I thought that
was a bit odd because it was the only white
on the airplane, so I painted the windshield
frame white to keep the cabanes company.
I kept the instructions out and made a
list of everything I would need to build the
Sun Dancer, and then I ordered all the
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:27 PM Page 63
necessities. The instructions make the assumption that you have
some building experience, which is fine; this is not a model for a
beginner.
An addendum is included for a change in the wing structure. Be
sure you find it in your kit!
Assembly: With all components on hand, I began the building
process. The covering was perfect except for a few loose edges that
took less than five minutes to secure with a covering iron.
Pay careful attention to the wingtips, aileron edges, and edges
around the bottom hatch. There is little overlap, so set the iron to be
hot enough (I set mine at 225°) to just activate the glue; otherwise,
the covering can shrink and expose the wood beneath.
As with most ARFs, the instructions have you begin by using
epoxy to assemble the four wing panels to make two wings. The
upper wing has the cabane mounts, and it is vital that you get the
mount holes on center or the wing will not be square to the fuselage.
There are no alignment stops in the ends of the wing slots to
prevent the cabane mount from sliding in too far, and there are no
notches in the mount itself or any kind of indicating mark to assist
with this step. Take your time and align the holes directly over what
will become the wing center joint.
There are two wing joiners—one for each wing. The upper wing
is built flat; the lower wing has 3° of
dihedral. The remainder of the assembly is
straightforward.
I found it interesting that the control
horns are not through-bolted to the control
surfaces; they are held in place with four
wood screws. Inside the control surface is a
heavy plywood plate into which the screws
thread. At first this concerned me; I
wondered if they would be able to handle
the aerodynamic loads and heavy vibrations
of a gas engine.
However, my concerns turned out to be
unjustified. Throughout the test flights I
continually checked them, and not one
screw ever showed even a sign of loosening
or pulling out of its mount.
The next few steps are hinging the
control surfaces. The kit comes with pointtype
hinges that are predrilled for alignment.
Be sure to coat the pivot with petroleum
jelly to prevent the epoxy from entering.
I chose the Brison 3.2 engine. I have
used Brison power plants for many years
and have always liked their performance.
This engine is at the bottom of the
recommended power range, so I didn’t
expect unlimited vertical and rapid
acceleration from a hover. Yet it has been
my experience that if the manufacturer says
it will fly it, it will, and Sig has always been
fantastic in this area.
I found the fuselage to be a bit unstable
on the table, so I temporarily installed the
main gear to prevent movement. This is
where I ran into my first problem.
The instructions show the small exhaust
header that comes with the FPE engine, but
it is too loud for some of the places I fly. I
ordered a Pitts muffler because I thought it
would look better and quiet the engine more,
but it didn’t fit between the engine and the
firewall.
Therefore, I ordered a Bisson side mount.
As luck would have it, the side mount didn’t
fit inside the cowl; it touched the cowl at the
bottom of the chamber. I needed to cut a
small eyebrow in the front to clear the
corner of the chamber.
64 MODEL AVIATION
On the left is the factory-installed antenna tube. On the right is
the paper roll the author made to secure the servo wires. (See the
arrows.)
Hitec Digital Guidance
This may be the best radio setup I
have ever had. If you have ever gone
to the field only to wait for your
frequency pin to become available,
here’s the cure. The Spectra Module
goes in the back of the Hitec
transmitter, in place of the frequency
module, and you can dial in the
frequency you want to use.
Forget about a box full of crystals
for the receiver with this setup. The
new Hitec Fusion nine-channel
receiver is fully synthesized and will
work with positive or negative shift
PPM (pulse position modulation)
transmitters.
This full-function, nine-channel
receiver is loaded with features. It
has a range of 3.5 to 7.5 volts. In the
event of signal loss it has IPD
(intelligent pulse decoding), which
allows for hold or fail-safe functions.
Setup takes only a few seconds
for any channel in the 72 MHz range,
and the Fusion’s power drain is only
20 mA. All this in a 2.2 x 0.9 x 0.95-
inch box that weighs only 1.1
ounces.
The Sig Sun Dancer is a big
airplane and needs real servo power,
so I selected digitals for the back
end. I chose Hitec HS-5625MGs for
the elevators and a 5645MG for the
rudder. I felt that HS-625MGs would
be fine for the ailerons since there are
four of them and they exceed the
required torque.
I don’t like servo reversers and
MatchBoxes, so I have been using the
Hitec HFP-10 programmer for years.
The ability to set direction, center,
endpoints, speed, dead band, and a few
other things makes setup headache
free. If you haven’t tried it, you should;
you may never go back. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Hitec RCD USA
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Static photos by Ray Fagnano Jr. Flight photos by Ray Fagnano III
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:34 PM Page 64
April 2008 65
Balance a Wood Propeller
Balancing the propeller is a must on any airframe. There are a number
of ways to do it, some of which are better than others.
I started with a Pro Zinger 22 x 8. I sanded the entire propeller, with
400-grit paper, just enough to remove the finish’s surface shine. I
sprayed two coats of white paint, in this case Krylon (for glow engines
you must use fuelproof paint), on the whole thing.
After the paint cured I set the propeller in the balancer, marked the
light blade, and gave only that side another coat of white. It takes some
practice, but you will quickly get a feel for how much paint is needed.
Once I was satisfied with the balance, I painted an even amount of
fluorescent orange on the tips for visibility and gave the whole propeller
a coat of high-gloss clear.
The result is a smooth, well-balanced propeller that looks great. Best
of all, you can’t miss the disk area when the engine is running. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Zinger propellers:
J&Z Products
(310) 539-2313
www.zingerpropeller.com
I have been
using Brison
engines for many
years and now own
a total of six.
These power plants
have a pistonported
design,
meaning that the
carburetor sticks
out the side of the
cylinder and feeds
fuel directly into the cylinder and crankcase through holes, or
“ports,” in the piston skirt. All Brison engines have Nikasil-lined
cylinders by Makita/Dolmar for long life and an excellent ring
seal.
The crankcase is machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and
polished to a beautiful finish. It comes equipped with a Walbro
carburetor that contains its own fuel pump and choke. They are
powerful, easy to start, and even easier to set up. The engines are
run at the factory and come with the carburetors adjusted and ready
to go.
The newer versions have the Cimmaster auto advance
ignition, and I have had no problems with the three I own. The
ignition will run on any battery from 4.8-volt Ni-Cd to 7.2-
volt Lithium.
I use synthetic oil by Amsoil at a 60:1 ratio with 91 octane
gas. The fuel-consumption rate is roughly 1.5 ounces per
minute for my flying style. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Brison 3.2 engine:
Kangke Industrial USA Inc.
(631) 274-3058
www.brisonrcengines.com
www.kangkeusa.com
I installed the throttle servo and began
fabricating the control rod using the supplied
components. The threaded coupler that
connects the clevis to the nylon control rod
was too small; once threaded in, it could be
pulled out by hand. I replaced the control rod
with a medium-size Nyrod I had on the shelf.
I found a problem when mounting the
stabilizer. It’s always been a habit of mine to
ensure that the stabilizer is not only square
to the fuselage, but parallel to the main
wing. Measuring carefully, I found the
stabilizer to lean approximately 2° to the
left. It took roughly 30 minutes with a file
and sandpaper to carefully dress the
stabilizer mount to correct the problem.
When mounting the cabanes to the
fuselage, the front, upper wing-mount
Allen head should point forward and the
rear head should point backward, or you
can’t get the top wing on. The curve of the
airfoil’s bottom will contact the screws
and make it difficult to tighten with the
Allen wrench. This is not mentioned in the
instructions.
The factory installed a tube for the
antenna wire that exited the bottom of the
fuselage—a wonderful feature. If you have
never done this, I have a tip for you. Coat
the antenna wire with cornstarch or baby
powder and it will slide right through.
I have a preference when it comes to
routing servo wires; I do not like them
loose in the fuselage. I roll a paper tube
around a 5/8-inch dowel and glue it to the
inside of the fuselage so the wires can’t
flop around.
The remainder of the build was easy.
No ballast was needed and the wing
incidence was simple to set.
With a 2000 mAh, 6-volt NiMH
receiver battery and a 1500 mAh, 4.8-volt
Ni-Cd ignition battery, my model’s readyto-
fly weight was 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces—just less than the 17-18 pounds
listed in the factory specs.
The First Flight: As models get bigger
and heavier, the potential for damage or
injury becomes significantly greater; a
careful preflight is mandatory. After I
checked all the screws and the battery
status, I performed a range check with the
engine off.
I fired up the Brison and checked the
range again. At the limit of the range I
cycled the throttle slowly from idle to wide
open and carefully observed to see if
vibrations or RFI (radio frequency
interference) problems existed. With none
present, I was ready to go.
The CG was set at 4.9 inches back from
the top wing’s LE (approximately 27%
MAC [mean aerodynamic chord]), and all
the control throws were programmed to the
factory specs.
Slow taxi tests indicated a need to
adjust the tail-wheel center as the Sun
Dancer turned right with the rudder
Brison’s 3.2 Gasser
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 12:03 PM Page 65
centered, throttle at idle, and the model
rolling slowly. I shut down and corrected
this before going any further.
For takeoff I lined up the airplane with
the runway center and pushed the left stick
forward. Acceleration on asphalt was
much faster than I expected; a touch of
right rudder kept it nailed to the
centerline.
After roughly a 50-foot roll, the tail
was up. After 25 more feet, daylight was
under the mains. The climb was brisk, and
at approximately 100 feet above the
ground I turned the model around and
started to trim. The elevator took a touch
of down, rudder took a touch of right, and
the ailerons were on the button.
For the first few minutes I just gently
flew around the sky, making shallow turns
while I got accustomed to the flight
performance and the appearance of the
airframe. At roughly 200 feet I brought the
throttle back and fed in some elevator; the
stall was straightforward with a hint of left
wing drop. I repeated the stall test several
times, with the same results.
After maybe four minutes I throttled
back on a downwind leg to prepare for
landing. Holding a bit of power as I flew
final, the airplane was rock steady. At 2
feet above the runway I cut to an idle,
slowly feeding elevator as airspeed was
depleted. The Sun Dancer settled in on
three points without a hint of a bounce.
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66 MODEL AVIATION
Before I refueled I went over the
airframe from one end to the other. There
was not a single problem or loose screw.
I’m starting to think Loctite may be one
of the world’s greatest inventions.
With the first-flight jitters out of the
way, I began to push the airframe. This
model is a barnstormer’s delight. Loops
(inside or outside) can be as large as you
want, and they are things of beauty with
the outstanding trim scheme.
Rolls are surprisingly axial. With four
ailerons driving them they are much faster
than you would expect, and altitude loss
is minimal. Rolls can be flown from
horizon to horizon, using slight rudder
and elevator compensation. A word of
caution: the wing trim scheme is the same
on the top and bottom, so it is easy to get
disoriented.
Knife edge in the upper end of the
speed envelope showed coupling in both
pitch and roll, but it was nothing that
couldn’t be handled. It could have been
mixed out with programming in the radio,
but I didn’t feel it was necessary.
I was able to perform Four Point Rolls
with ease. I was impressed with the
rudder’s authority because it could yaw
the fuselage from right to left without
inducing severe roll coupling. I had a
blast making Flat Turns, Figure Eights,
and tail wags.
Hammerheads required a small burst
of power at the top to advance the rotation
rate. They appear to rotate around the
wingtip. You will need to stay on the
elevator during the down-line; there is
some divergence to pull toward the
canopy.
Snaps are easy but have a tendency to
over-rotate slightly—only 10° or so, but it
is noticeable. I quickly became
accustomed to this and was able to
perform a 540° snap from knife edge to
knife edge with consistency.
The Sun Dancer is a wonderful
airplane to fly, and it takes little time to
get comfortable with its handling. With
the sun shining on its bright colors, it has
a majestic beauty that only a biplane can
generate.
Advanced 3-D Flight: I don’t think this
airframe’s original design mission was 3-
D flight, and as-is it does not do very well
in this arena. Some maneuvers genuinely
impressed me and were totally
unexpected. I set the control throws to the
limit the surfaces would allow, but the
beveling on the hinge line limited this to
approximately 35°.
Elevators were rock solid with little
wing rock; however, more power was
needed than some would think would be
necessary. Roughly 25% power was
required to prevent the stall from breaking
and the nose from falling through the
horizon.
I also noticed how the Sun Dancer’s
attitude in the elevator is much more
nose-high than that of the other 3-D
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 66
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/04
Page Numbers: 62,63,64,65,66
62 MODEL AVIATION
RAY FAGNANO JR.
Plane Talk: Sig Sun Dancer ARF
A fun model with structural and flight integrity
Stability? With just a touch of power, the Sun Dancer can sustain
this nose-high slow flight the length of the runway with no altitude
change.
This model’s top and bottom trim schemes are the same, so pay
attention to which side is up! The Brison 3.2 engine provides
plenty of power.
This classic biplane will draw attention at the field with both its appearance and its performance!
The Sun Dancer is capable of moderate to good 3-D flight
maneuvers. This knife edge in high alpha looks great! Smooth
control inputs are the key to aerobatics.
THE SUN DANCER arrived in a large box; it was well packed
to prevent any shipping damage. I removed all the components
and performed an inventory check to make sure everything was
there, and it was.
For a reason that escapes me, I can never get all the parts
back in the box and close it. Someday someone needs to tell me
why.
The model is built from plywood and balsa, using traditional
construction techniques. The structure is well designed; it’s strong
where required and light where stresses are lower. Access to the
inside of the fuselage for radio gear is through the bottom wing
opening and a cover that screws onto the bottom just behind the
firewall.
The wings come as four panels with symmetrical airfoils and
four ailerons. The wings are joined permanently with epoxy;
plywood is used for the joiners.
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 62
+•
Exceptionally nice construction
• Beautiful covering job
• Great flight characteristics
-•
Throttle pushrod
• Top and bottom covering is the same
• Instructions could use more detail
(See text for explanation.)
April 2008 63
Pluses and Minuses
Model type: ARF
Wingspan: 71.5 inches
Wing area: 1,668 square inches
Length: 66 inches
Projected flying weight: 17-18 pounds
Weight as tested: 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces dry
Recommended engine: 3.2-4.2 cu. in.
gas
Engine used: Brison 3.2
Recommended radio: Four channels
with eight servos
Radio used: Hitec Eclipse 7 QPCM,
Fusion 9 receiver, four HS-625MG
servos, two HS-5625MG servos, one HS-
5645MG servo, one HS-425BB servo
Construction materials: Balsa, Lite Ply
Street price: $349.99
Specifications
Double-check to make sure that the wing-cabane mount holes are
centered on what will be the wing center.
Notice the four control-horn screws. This type of mounting keeps
the top of the control surface clean and smooth.
A small relief hole is cut in the bottom front of the cowl for the
muffler chamber to clear. Make sure it does not touch the cowl;
vibration cracks could result!
This is the proper orientation of the wing-mount bolts. The front
points forward and the back points rearward.
Each elevator has its own servo
mounted in the rear. Because the fuselage
in the rear is too narrow for the elevator
servos to mount opposite each other, they
are staggered with the right servo
mounting just behind the left.
The rudder is controlled by a pull-pull
system and an interior-mounted servo.
Nice guide tubes are already installed in
the fuselage at the pull-pull wire exits. The
cables cannot be removed once they are
fabricated; the ends will not fit through the
tube.
The cowl and wheel pants are
fiberglass and come painted to match the
covering; I wish my car had as nice of a
finish as these parts.
The airframe is covered in an
extraordinarily bright (the word “Sun” in
Sun Dancer applies) and tasteful threecolor
scheme using Oracover (also known
as UltraCote). The colors are Cad Yellow
(Oracover 33/UltraCote 872), Bright
Yellow (Oracover 32/UltraCote 889), and
Ferrari Red (Oracover 23/UltraCote 866).
The supplied hardware is of terrific
quality, and everything you will need is
supplied except servo horns. The landing
gear is aluminum; it’s beautifully finished
and seems to be stiff enough for the
airframe’s projected weight.
The cabanes are assembled with a
machined-nylon top wing mount installed.
They are finished in white. I thought that
was a bit odd because it was the only white
on the airplane, so I painted the windshield
frame white to keep the cabanes company.
I kept the instructions out and made a
list of everything I would need to build the
Sun Dancer, and then I ordered all the
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:27 PM Page 63
necessities. The instructions make the assumption that you have
some building experience, which is fine; this is not a model for a
beginner.
An addendum is included for a change in the wing structure. Be
sure you find it in your kit!
Assembly: With all components on hand, I began the building
process. The covering was perfect except for a few loose edges that
took less than five minutes to secure with a covering iron.
Pay careful attention to the wingtips, aileron edges, and edges
around the bottom hatch. There is little overlap, so set the iron to be
hot enough (I set mine at 225°) to just activate the glue; otherwise,
the covering can shrink and expose the wood beneath.
As with most ARFs, the instructions have you begin by using
epoxy to assemble the four wing panels to make two wings. The
upper wing has the cabane mounts, and it is vital that you get the
mount holes on center or the wing will not be square to the fuselage.
There are no alignment stops in the ends of the wing slots to
prevent the cabane mount from sliding in too far, and there are no
notches in the mount itself or any kind of indicating mark to assist
with this step. Take your time and align the holes directly over what
will become the wing center joint.
There are two wing joiners—one for each wing. The upper wing
is built flat; the lower wing has 3° of
dihedral. The remainder of the assembly is
straightforward.
I found it interesting that the control
horns are not through-bolted to the control
surfaces; they are held in place with four
wood screws. Inside the control surface is a
heavy plywood plate into which the screws
thread. At first this concerned me; I
wondered if they would be able to handle
the aerodynamic loads and heavy vibrations
of a gas engine.
However, my concerns turned out to be
unjustified. Throughout the test flights I
continually checked them, and not one
screw ever showed even a sign of loosening
or pulling out of its mount.
The next few steps are hinging the
control surfaces. The kit comes with pointtype
hinges that are predrilled for alignment.
Be sure to coat the pivot with petroleum
jelly to prevent the epoxy from entering.
I chose the Brison 3.2 engine. I have
used Brison power plants for many years
and have always liked their performance.
This engine is at the bottom of the
recommended power range, so I didn’t
expect unlimited vertical and rapid
acceleration from a hover. Yet it has been
my experience that if the manufacturer says
it will fly it, it will, and Sig has always been
fantastic in this area.
I found the fuselage to be a bit unstable
on the table, so I temporarily installed the
main gear to prevent movement. This is
where I ran into my first problem.
The instructions show the small exhaust
header that comes with the FPE engine, but
it is too loud for some of the places I fly. I
ordered a Pitts muffler because I thought it
would look better and quiet the engine more,
but it didn’t fit between the engine and the
firewall.
Therefore, I ordered a Bisson side mount.
As luck would have it, the side mount didn’t
fit inside the cowl; it touched the cowl at the
bottom of the chamber. I needed to cut a
small eyebrow in the front to clear the
corner of the chamber.
64 MODEL AVIATION
On the left is the factory-installed antenna tube. On the right is
the paper roll the author made to secure the servo wires. (See the
arrows.)
Hitec Digital Guidance
This may be the best radio setup I
have ever had. If you have ever gone
to the field only to wait for your
frequency pin to become available,
here’s the cure. The Spectra Module
goes in the back of the Hitec
transmitter, in place of the frequency
module, and you can dial in the
frequency you want to use.
Forget about a box full of crystals
for the receiver with this setup. The
new Hitec Fusion nine-channel
receiver is fully synthesized and will
work with positive or negative shift
PPM (pulse position modulation)
transmitters.
This full-function, nine-channel
receiver is loaded with features. It
has a range of 3.5 to 7.5 volts. In the
event of signal loss it has IPD
(intelligent pulse decoding), which
allows for hold or fail-safe functions.
Setup takes only a few seconds
for any channel in the 72 MHz range,
and the Fusion’s power drain is only
20 mA. All this in a 2.2 x 0.9 x 0.95-
inch box that weighs only 1.1
ounces.
The Sig Sun Dancer is a big
airplane and needs real servo power,
so I selected digitals for the back
end. I chose Hitec HS-5625MGs for
the elevators and a 5645MG for the
rudder. I felt that HS-625MGs would
be fine for the ailerons since there are
four of them and they exceed the
required torque.
I don’t like servo reversers and
MatchBoxes, so I have been using the
Hitec HFP-10 programmer for years.
The ability to set direction, center,
endpoints, speed, dead band, and a few
other things makes setup headache
free. If you haven’t tried it, you should;
you may never go back. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Hitec RCD USA
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Static photos by Ray Fagnano Jr. Flight photos by Ray Fagnano III
04sig2.QXD 2/25/08 1:34 PM Page 64
April 2008 65
Balance a Wood Propeller
Balancing the propeller is a must on any airframe. There are a number
of ways to do it, some of which are better than others.
I started with a Pro Zinger 22 x 8. I sanded the entire propeller, with
400-grit paper, just enough to remove the finish’s surface shine. I
sprayed two coats of white paint, in this case Krylon (for glow engines
you must use fuelproof paint), on the whole thing.
After the paint cured I set the propeller in the balancer, marked the
light blade, and gave only that side another coat of white. It takes some
practice, but you will quickly get a feel for how much paint is needed.
Once I was satisfied with the balance, I painted an even amount of
fluorescent orange on the tips for visibility and gave the whole propeller
a coat of high-gloss clear.
The result is a smooth, well-balanced propeller that looks great. Best
of all, you can’t miss the disk area when the engine is running. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Zinger propellers:
J&Z Products
(310) 539-2313
www.zingerpropeller.com
I have been
using Brison
engines for many
years and now own
a total of six.
These power plants
have a pistonported
design,
meaning that the
carburetor sticks
out the side of the
cylinder and feeds
fuel directly into the cylinder and crankcase through holes, or
“ports,” in the piston skirt. All Brison engines have Nikasil-lined
cylinders by Makita/Dolmar for long life and an excellent ring
seal.
The crankcase is machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and
polished to a beautiful finish. It comes equipped with a Walbro
carburetor that contains its own fuel pump and choke. They are
powerful, easy to start, and even easier to set up. The engines are
run at the factory and come with the carburetors adjusted and ready
to go.
The newer versions have the Cimmaster auto advance
ignition, and I have had no problems with the three I own. The
ignition will run on any battery from 4.8-volt Ni-Cd to 7.2-
volt Lithium.
I use synthetic oil by Amsoil at a 60:1 ratio with 91 octane
gas. The fuel-consumption rate is roughly 1.5 ounces per
minute for my flying style. MA
—Ray Fagnano Jr.
Sources:
Brison 3.2 engine:
Kangke Industrial USA Inc.
(631) 274-3058
www.brisonrcengines.com
www.kangkeusa.com
I installed the throttle servo and began
fabricating the control rod using the supplied
components. The threaded coupler that
connects the clevis to the nylon control rod
was too small; once threaded in, it could be
pulled out by hand. I replaced the control rod
with a medium-size Nyrod I had on the shelf.
I found a problem when mounting the
stabilizer. It’s always been a habit of mine to
ensure that the stabilizer is not only square
to the fuselage, but parallel to the main
wing. Measuring carefully, I found the
stabilizer to lean approximately 2° to the
left. It took roughly 30 minutes with a file
and sandpaper to carefully dress the
stabilizer mount to correct the problem.
When mounting the cabanes to the
fuselage, the front, upper wing-mount
Allen head should point forward and the
rear head should point backward, or you
can’t get the top wing on. The curve of the
airfoil’s bottom will contact the screws
and make it difficult to tighten with the
Allen wrench. This is not mentioned in the
instructions.
The factory installed a tube for the
antenna wire that exited the bottom of the
fuselage—a wonderful feature. If you have
never done this, I have a tip for you. Coat
the antenna wire with cornstarch or baby
powder and it will slide right through.
I have a preference when it comes to
routing servo wires; I do not like them
loose in the fuselage. I roll a paper tube
around a 5/8-inch dowel and glue it to the
inside of the fuselage so the wires can’t
flop around.
The remainder of the build was easy.
No ballast was needed and the wing
incidence was simple to set.
With a 2000 mAh, 6-volt NiMH
receiver battery and a 1500 mAh, 4.8-volt
Ni-Cd ignition battery, my model’s readyto-
fly weight was 16 pounds, 15.5
ounces—just less than the 17-18 pounds
listed in the factory specs.
The First Flight: As models get bigger
and heavier, the potential for damage or
injury becomes significantly greater; a
careful preflight is mandatory. After I
checked all the screws and the battery
status, I performed a range check with the
engine off.
I fired up the Brison and checked the
range again. At the limit of the range I
cycled the throttle slowly from idle to wide
open and carefully observed to see if
vibrations or RFI (radio frequency
interference) problems existed. With none
present, I was ready to go.
The CG was set at 4.9 inches back from
the top wing’s LE (approximately 27%
MAC [mean aerodynamic chord]), and all
the control throws were programmed to the
factory specs.
Slow taxi tests indicated a need to
adjust the tail-wheel center as the Sun
Dancer turned right with the rudder
Brison’s 3.2 Gasser
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 12:03 PM Page 65
centered, throttle at idle, and the model
rolling slowly. I shut down and corrected
this before going any further.
For takeoff I lined up the airplane with
the runway center and pushed the left stick
forward. Acceleration on asphalt was
much faster than I expected; a touch of
right rudder kept it nailed to the
centerline.
After roughly a 50-foot roll, the tail
was up. After 25 more feet, daylight was
under the mains. The climb was brisk, and
at approximately 100 feet above the
ground I turned the model around and
started to trim. The elevator took a touch
of down, rudder took a touch of right, and
the ailerons were on the button.
For the first few minutes I just gently
flew around the sky, making shallow turns
while I got accustomed to the flight
performance and the appearance of the
airframe. At roughly 200 feet I brought the
throttle back and fed in some elevator; the
stall was straightforward with a hint of left
wing drop. I repeated the stall test several
times, with the same results.
After maybe four minutes I throttled
back on a downwind leg to prepare for
landing. Holding a bit of power as I flew
final, the airplane was rock steady. At 2
feet above the runway I cut to an idle,
slowly feeding elevator as airspeed was
depleted. The Sun Dancer settled in on
three points without a hint of a bounce.
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66 MODEL AVIATION
Before I refueled I went over the
airframe from one end to the other. There
was not a single problem or loose screw.
I’m starting to think Loctite may be one
of the world’s greatest inventions.
With the first-flight jitters out of the
way, I began to push the airframe. This
model is a barnstormer’s delight. Loops
(inside or outside) can be as large as you
want, and they are things of beauty with
the outstanding trim scheme.
Rolls are surprisingly axial. With four
ailerons driving them they are much faster
than you would expect, and altitude loss
is minimal. Rolls can be flown from
horizon to horizon, using slight rudder
and elevator compensation. A word of
caution: the wing trim scheme is the same
on the top and bottom, so it is easy to get
disoriented.
Knife edge in the upper end of the
speed envelope showed coupling in both
pitch and roll, but it was nothing that
couldn’t be handled. It could have been
mixed out with programming in the radio,
but I didn’t feel it was necessary.
I was able to perform Four Point Rolls
with ease. I was impressed with the
rudder’s authority because it could yaw
the fuselage from right to left without
inducing severe roll coupling. I had a
blast making Flat Turns, Figure Eights,
and tail wags.
Hammerheads required a small burst
of power at the top to advance the rotation
rate. They appear to rotate around the
wingtip. You will need to stay on the
elevator during the down-line; there is
some divergence to pull toward the
canopy.
Snaps are easy but have a tendency to
over-rotate slightly—only 10° or so, but it
is noticeable. I quickly became
accustomed to this and was able to
perform a 540° snap from knife edge to
knife edge with consistency.
The Sun Dancer is a wonderful
airplane to fly, and it takes little time to
get comfortable with its handling. With
the sun shining on its bright colors, it has
a majestic beauty that only a biplane can
generate.
Advanced 3-D Flight: I don’t think this
airframe’s original design mission was 3-
D flight, and as-is it does not do very well
in this arena. Some maneuvers genuinely
impressed me and were totally
unexpected. I set the control throws to the
limit the surfaces would allow, but the
beveling on the hinge line limited this to
approximately 35°.
Elevators were rock solid with little
wing rock; however, more power was
needed than some would think would be
necessary. Roughly 25% power was
required to prevent the stall from breaking
and the nose from falling through the
horizon.
I also noticed how the Sun Dancer’s
attitude in the elevator is much more
nose-high than that of the other 3-D
04sig3.QXD 2/25/08 1:21 PM Page 66