P r o d u c t R e v i e w Stan Kulesa
3351 Spruce St., Mohegan Lake NY 10547
THE FOKKER DR.I triplane is a favorite among modelers, and
Arizona Model Aircrafters distributes the most scalelike ARF version
available. It is important to note that the company defines the term
“ARF” as “Almost Ready to Finish” instead of “Almost Ready to Fly.”
You must apply a painted finish.
The Dr.I is shipped in two boxes; one holds the three wings and the
other contains the fuselage, empennage, and assorted items such as a
one-piece fiberglass cowl, aluminum spoked wheels, cockpit coaming,
laser-cut acrylic control horns, and “minikits” for the Spandau machine
guns, instruments, pilot seat, Williams Bros. Gnome rotary engine, etc.
You will need to purchase a tank, control cabling for the rudder,
hinges, a radio, an engine and mount, and paints/glues. Arizona Model
Aircrafters also sells a full-body World War I German pilot; I used one in
the review model.
The overall quality of the materials used throughout was well above
average. I detected no warps in the wings or empennage, and the fuselage
was straight and true.
Four folded sheets of full-size blueprints (and two additional sheets of
scale details) were included, but there was no instruction manual.
Because of this deficiency, you will need to have a basic familiarity with
the Dr.I and technical skills in reading blueprints to assemble the model.
Construction: The airplane’s assembly wasn’t too hard to figure out
(even without an instruction manual). I began by cutting a groove on the
This triplane is extraordinarily maneuverable, with a
moderately high roll rate. Its in-flight characteristics are
predictable and solid, even at slow speed.
In the case of this model, ARF means “Almost Ready to Finish.”
Parts come in two large boxes, and the kit is extremely complete.
Arizona Model Aircrafters Fokker Dr.I ARF
Pros:
• Above-average quality of materials throughout.
• Most scalelike ARF version of the Dr.I available.
• Deluxe kit loaded with extras—an excellent value.
Cons:
• No instruction manual included.
LE of the ailerons so I could epoxy the scale acrylic control horns in place.
I attached the ailerons to the top wing; each aileron had four hinges.
I fit the one-piece wire cabane struts into slots on the middle wing’s
center-section. (The front slot was covered by balsa sheeting, so it had to
be drilled once I located the groove. To find the groove, I poked a pin
through the balsa sheeting until I felt no resistance.) The rear slot is on top
of the center-section.
I attached the cabane struts to the top wing with screws and brackets.
The cabane struts have covered balsa fairings for scale-detail purposes.
The lower wing fit into place snugly.
I applied an oak stain and a clear coat to the outboard struts. Once that
was dry, I fitted them through the middle wing into the top wing.
Aluminum L brackets were used to attach these struts to the top and
middle wings. You must take care to properly measure the spacing
between wings.
Once attached, the top and middle wings stay connected to one
another. After the top two wings are screwed to the fuselage, the bottom
wing is attached and the outboard struts fit into channels on the top of the
bottom wing.
The center-sections and LEs of all three wings are sheeted with balsa,
and the ribs are capstripped. None of the wings have dihedral.
The stabilizer is composed of a flat 3⁄8 x 1⁄4 balsa frame with 1⁄4 x 1⁄4
balsa ribs running perpendicular to the TE. I attached the stabilizer to the
top aft end of the fuselage with 30-minute epoxy and took extra care to
properly align it with the wing. Aluminum tubing serves as braces
between the stabilizer bottom and aft fuselage.
I cut two grooves on the elevator LEs so I could epoxy the scale
acrylic control horns in place. Each elevator half was attached to the
stabilizer with two hinges.
The Dr.I doesn’t have a fin; the one-piece rudder is a flying
surface. The construction is a 1⁄2 x 1⁄4-inch flat open balsa frame with
1⁄4 x 1⁄4 balsa ribs. In deference to the Dr.I’s ground-loop tendency, I
would have liked for the rudder’s frame to have been constructed from
or reinforced with light plywood. However, there is a vertical spar
made from basswood. After the acrylic control horn is added, attach
the rudder to the aft end of the fuselage with three hinges.
Engine installation is simple. I used a Great Planes adjustable
large-engine mount to hold the Saito 150 four-stroke, which is
mounted inverted and tipped to the left so that the stock muffler fits
under the nose’s center-section.
Photos by Subhra Bose
The Williams Bros. dummy engine was modified to fit over the
engine mount. It was attached via screws to hardwood pieces that
were epoxied to the mount.
The fuel tank was not supplied with the Dr.I kit, but as you can
see there is abundant room for its installation!
This model comes covered with all-white iron-on fabric and must
be finished. The author ironed on 3⁄8-inch strips of fabric to simulate
the rib stitching.
The Saito 150 four-stroke engine is mounted to a Great Planes
Adjustable Motor Mount at an angle that allows the stock muffler to
fit under the nose section.
Using a Dremel Moto-Tool, I carefully and slowly carved away
areas of the Williams Bros. dummy engine so it could fit over the
engine mount. Once that was accomplished, I epoxied some hardwood
to the engine mount so that screws passing through the dummy engine
could be attached.
The subwing has three parts (center and two end caps), and they are
attached with metal straps once the 1⁄4-inch-diameter axle passes
through the center part and is rubber-banded (for shock-absorbing
purposes). These removable straps allow for disassembly, if needed, to
replace the rubber bands. The landing gear is fitted into grooved
hardwood blocks on the bottom of the fuselage and screwed into place.
The fuselage uses an open-frame construction with the vertical
braces and top/bottom longerons made from 1⁄4 x 3⁄8 balsa. The nose
section is balsa sheeted. The firewall and four formers are 1⁄4 plywood,
and the formers for the turtledeck are 1⁄4 balsa.
Covering/Finishing: Part of the fun of Scale modeling is determining a
finish. I generally try to pick one I haven’t seen others choose. (There
are too many red triplanes!)
Germany allowed its pilots to personalize their aircraft, and they
took advantage of the privilege. Windsock Datafiles are an excellent
source of color schemes, and Wise Owl Worldwide Publications—
(562) 461-7574—provided me with the heavily requested Dr.I book. Its
data files are complete with three-views, colorized drawings, and many
other facts about the aircraft and its pilots.
The Arizona Model Aircrafters Dr.I is covered with all-white, ironon
fabric, and it must be finished. I ironed on 3⁄8-inch strips of fabric
over the ribs on the wing and empennage to simulate the rib stitching.
To add some texture to the stitch, I made dots by using the end of a Tpin
dipped in Formula 560 glue.
The design I chose was from Jasta 11. I streaked the fore section of
the fuselage and the tops of the wings with olive-drab paint over a tan
base coat to replicate Fokker’s standard camouflage pattern.
I painted the aft end of the fuselage and bottoms of the wings
turquoise. I stained and clear-coated the outboard struts, tail skid, and
cockpit interior, and then I lightly sanded the cowl and painted it
salmon.
I have had exceptional results with the Nelson paint system, and
that’s what I used for the Dr.I. It is unique because it is water-reducible
polyurethane, it has no obnoxious odor, it can be safely used indoors, it
is nonflammable, and it is easy to clean up (using just water).
Nelson Hobby Specialties offers a wide array of colors and custom
tinting. You can contact the company at (877) 263-5766. You must
apply this paint according to its instructions—irrespective of your
experience level.
A scale interior is provided and consists of several “minikits” for the
instruments, throttle control, cockpit floor, rudder-pedal skids, pilot
seat, machine guns, and Williams Bros. engine. Scrap music wire was
used to simulate the lifting handles and the foot step on the fuselage.
86 MODEL AVIATION
Triplanes have a great deal of parasitic drag, so airspeed must be
maintained on landing approaches. Majestic, isn’t it?
The one-piece rudder is a flying surface. It is attached to the
fuselage with three hinges and is activated via an acrylic
control horn.
The 1⁄4-inch axle passes through the subwing’s center-section
and is rubber-banded to provide a shock absorber.
I used Kirby’s Kustom Vinyl Graphics for all of the Dr.I’s
markings. The flat clear I applied over the markings gave it a streaked
(paint-brushed) effect. You can contact Dennis Kirby at (513) 932-
2422.
Radio Installation: The radio-installation process was fairly easy. I
chose the Airtronics RD6000 Super system.
Five servos were needed—one for each aileron, and one for the
elevator, rudder, and throttle. I used Airtronics’ 743 double-ball-bearing
servos (with 60/72 inch-ounce of torque) for all flying surfaces and a
basic Airtronics 322 servo for the throttle. Rudder and elevator servos
were installed under the pilot’s seat on hardwood rails (not provided).
I mounted the cockpit floor to balsa rails with Velcro and attached
the seat to a supporting structure with screws. All of this can easily be
removed for unobstructed access to the servos. I used Du-Bro 4-40 pullpull
cabling (not provided in the kit) for the rudder. The elevator servo
has a Y-shaped pushrod leading to the surfaces.
I located the battery under the tank as far forward as I could get it,
and I placed the receiver under the cockpit floor. The antenna passes
through a tube in the fuselage. The switch was attached inside the
cockpit area but hidden from view.
Flying: I am pleased to report that I didn’t need to add weight to the tail
or nose to achieve a balanced CG.
The best way to take off with a triplane is to hold up-elevator while
powering up but making sure to release most of the up-elevator as soon
as the model lifts off of the ground, flying it out at roughly a 20° incline
to avoid any stall. The Dr.I doesn’t require a long roll; it’s airborne in
15-20 feet.
Once this model is in the air, there’s nothing quite like the “eye
candy” of a triplane. I achieved straight and level flight with five clicks
of down-elevator and two clicks of right aileron.
This aircraft is rather maneuverable (which is why it was a favorite
among German fighter pilots) and can handle an array of aerobatics.
Fifty-foot-diameter loops are easy to perform. The roll rate is
approximately one per second; spins are not too snappy. Inverted flight
requires a slight amount of down-elevator.
This is not a difficult model to fly. Its in-flight characteristics are
predictable and solid—even at slow speed.
Landings can be tricky with a triplane. There is plenty of drag with
three wings, so the airspeed must be maintained. Once the wheels
touch, allow the model to run its course until the tail settles. Keeping in
mind that this aircraft doesn’t have a steerable tail skid, taxiing it
requires full up-elevator with spurts of throttle to keep it moving.
Although this Balsa USA-designed model isn’t 100% true to scale, its
outstanding flying characteristics and awesome good looks more than
make up for any loss in detail. I’m glad that Arizona Model Aircrafters
chose to cover its ARF version in white, “forcing” us modelers to show
some creativity and have some fun.
The Fokker Dr.I flies really well, looks terrific on the ground and in
the air, and is competitively priced, considering that it is a deluxe kit
with many amenities. Visit the Arizona Model Aircrafters Web site for
additional information. MA
Distributor:
Arizona Model Aircrafters
13814 N. 56th Pl.
Scottsdale AZ 85254
(602) 971-5644
Fax: (602) 971-5644
www.arizonamodels.com
List price: $749
Specifications:
Wingspan: 70.75 inches
Wing area: 2,030 square inches
Length: 56 inches
Weight: 15 pounds, 4 ounces
Wing loading: 17.3 ounces per square inch
Engine required: Zenoah G-23 (gas) or 120-150 (four-stroke)
Radio required: Four channels with five servos (throttle, rudder, elevator,
and one for each aileron)
04sig3.QXD 2/25/05 11:20 am Page 86
Edition: Model Aviation - 2005/04
Page Numbers: 83,84,86
Edition: Model Aviation - 2005/04
Page Numbers: 83,84,86
P r o d u c t R e v i e w Stan Kulesa
3351 Spruce St., Mohegan Lake NY 10547
THE FOKKER DR.I triplane is a favorite among modelers, and
Arizona Model Aircrafters distributes the most scalelike ARF version
available. It is important to note that the company defines the term
“ARF” as “Almost Ready to Finish” instead of “Almost Ready to Fly.”
You must apply a painted finish.
The Dr.I is shipped in two boxes; one holds the three wings and the
other contains the fuselage, empennage, and assorted items such as a
one-piece fiberglass cowl, aluminum spoked wheels, cockpit coaming,
laser-cut acrylic control horns, and “minikits” for the Spandau machine
guns, instruments, pilot seat, Williams Bros. Gnome rotary engine, etc.
You will need to purchase a tank, control cabling for the rudder,
hinges, a radio, an engine and mount, and paints/glues. Arizona Model
Aircrafters also sells a full-body World War I German pilot; I used one in
the review model.
The overall quality of the materials used throughout was well above
average. I detected no warps in the wings or empennage, and the fuselage
was straight and true.
Four folded sheets of full-size blueprints (and two additional sheets of
scale details) were included, but there was no instruction manual.
Because of this deficiency, you will need to have a basic familiarity with
the Dr.I and technical skills in reading blueprints to assemble the model.
Construction: The airplane’s assembly wasn’t too hard to figure out
(even without an instruction manual). I began by cutting a groove on the
This triplane is extraordinarily maneuverable, with a
moderately high roll rate. Its in-flight characteristics are
predictable and solid, even at slow speed.
In the case of this model, ARF means “Almost Ready to Finish.”
Parts come in two large boxes, and the kit is extremely complete.
Arizona Model Aircrafters Fokker Dr.I ARF
Pros:
• Above-average quality of materials throughout.
• Most scalelike ARF version of the Dr.I available.
• Deluxe kit loaded with extras—an excellent value.
Cons:
• No instruction manual included.
LE of the ailerons so I could epoxy the scale acrylic control horns in place.
I attached the ailerons to the top wing; each aileron had four hinges.
I fit the one-piece wire cabane struts into slots on the middle wing’s
center-section. (The front slot was covered by balsa sheeting, so it had to
be drilled once I located the groove. To find the groove, I poked a pin
through the balsa sheeting until I felt no resistance.) The rear slot is on top
of the center-section.
I attached the cabane struts to the top wing with screws and brackets.
The cabane struts have covered balsa fairings for scale-detail purposes.
The lower wing fit into place snugly.
I applied an oak stain and a clear coat to the outboard struts. Once that
was dry, I fitted them through the middle wing into the top wing.
Aluminum L brackets were used to attach these struts to the top and
middle wings. You must take care to properly measure the spacing
between wings.
Once attached, the top and middle wings stay connected to one
another. After the top two wings are screwed to the fuselage, the bottom
wing is attached and the outboard struts fit into channels on the top of the
bottom wing.
The center-sections and LEs of all three wings are sheeted with balsa,
and the ribs are capstripped. None of the wings have dihedral.
The stabilizer is composed of a flat 3⁄8 x 1⁄4 balsa frame with 1⁄4 x 1⁄4
balsa ribs running perpendicular to the TE. I attached the stabilizer to the
top aft end of the fuselage with 30-minute epoxy and took extra care to
properly align it with the wing. Aluminum tubing serves as braces
between the stabilizer bottom and aft fuselage.
I cut two grooves on the elevator LEs so I could epoxy the scale
acrylic control horns in place. Each elevator half was attached to the
stabilizer with two hinges.
The Dr.I doesn’t have a fin; the one-piece rudder is a flying
surface. The construction is a 1⁄2 x 1⁄4-inch flat open balsa frame with
1⁄4 x 1⁄4 balsa ribs. In deference to the Dr.I’s ground-loop tendency, I
would have liked for the rudder’s frame to have been constructed from
or reinforced with light plywood. However, there is a vertical spar
made from basswood. After the acrylic control horn is added, attach
the rudder to the aft end of the fuselage with three hinges.
Engine installation is simple. I used a Great Planes adjustable
large-engine mount to hold the Saito 150 four-stroke, which is
mounted inverted and tipped to the left so that the stock muffler fits
under the nose’s center-section.
Photos by Subhra Bose
The Williams Bros. dummy engine was modified to fit over the
engine mount. It was attached via screws to hardwood pieces that
were epoxied to the mount.
The fuel tank was not supplied with the Dr.I kit, but as you can
see there is abundant room for its installation!
This model comes covered with all-white iron-on fabric and must
be finished. The author ironed on 3⁄8-inch strips of fabric to simulate
the rib stitching.
The Saito 150 four-stroke engine is mounted to a Great Planes
Adjustable Motor Mount at an angle that allows the stock muffler to
fit under the nose section.
Using a Dremel Moto-Tool, I carefully and slowly carved away
areas of the Williams Bros. dummy engine so it could fit over the
engine mount. Once that was accomplished, I epoxied some hardwood
to the engine mount so that screws passing through the dummy engine
could be attached.
The subwing has three parts (center and two end caps), and they are
attached with metal straps once the 1⁄4-inch-diameter axle passes
through the center part and is rubber-banded (for shock-absorbing
purposes). These removable straps allow for disassembly, if needed, to
replace the rubber bands. The landing gear is fitted into grooved
hardwood blocks on the bottom of the fuselage and screwed into place.
The fuselage uses an open-frame construction with the vertical
braces and top/bottom longerons made from 1⁄4 x 3⁄8 balsa. The nose
section is balsa sheeted. The firewall and four formers are 1⁄4 plywood,
and the formers for the turtledeck are 1⁄4 balsa.
Covering/Finishing: Part of the fun of Scale modeling is determining a
finish. I generally try to pick one I haven’t seen others choose. (There
are too many red triplanes!)
Germany allowed its pilots to personalize their aircraft, and they
took advantage of the privilege. Windsock Datafiles are an excellent
source of color schemes, and Wise Owl Worldwide Publications—
(562) 461-7574—provided me with the heavily requested Dr.I book. Its
data files are complete with three-views, colorized drawings, and many
other facts about the aircraft and its pilots.
The Arizona Model Aircrafters Dr.I is covered with all-white, ironon
fabric, and it must be finished. I ironed on 3⁄8-inch strips of fabric
over the ribs on the wing and empennage to simulate the rib stitching.
To add some texture to the stitch, I made dots by using the end of a Tpin
dipped in Formula 560 glue.
The design I chose was from Jasta 11. I streaked the fore section of
the fuselage and the tops of the wings with olive-drab paint over a tan
base coat to replicate Fokker’s standard camouflage pattern.
I painted the aft end of the fuselage and bottoms of the wings
turquoise. I stained and clear-coated the outboard struts, tail skid, and
cockpit interior, and then I lightly sanded the cowl and painted it
salmon.
I have had exceptional results with the Nelson paint system, and
that’s what I used for the Dr.I. It is unique because it is water-reducible
polyurethane, it has no obnoxious odor, it can be safely used indoors, it
is nonflammable, and it is easy to clean up (using just water).
Nelson Hobby Specialties offers a wide array of colors and custom
tinting. You can contact the company at (877) 263-5766. You must
apply this paint according to its instructions—irrespective of your
experience level.
A scale interior is provided and consists of several “minikits” for the
instruments, throttle control, cockpit floor, rudder-pedal skids, pilot
seat, machine guns, and Williams Bros. engine. Scrap music wire was
used to simulate the lifting handles and the foot step on the fuselage.
86 MODEL AVIATION
Triplanes have a great deal of parasitic drag, so airspeed must be
maintained on landing approaches. Majestic, isn’t it?
The one-piece rudder is a flying surface. It is attached to the
fuselage with three hinges and is activated via an acrylic
control horn.
The 1⁄4-inch axle passes through the subwing’s center-section
and is rubber-banded to provide a shock absorber.
I used Kirby’s Kustom Vinyl Graphics for all of the Dr.I’s
markings. The flat clear I applied over the markings gave it a streaked
(paint-brushed) effect. You can contact Dennis Kirby at (513) 932-
2422.
Radio Installation: The radio-installation process was fairly easy. I
chose the Airtronics RD6000 Super system.
Five servos were needed—one for each aileron, and one for the
elevator, rudder, and throttle. I used Airtronics’ 743 double-ball-bearing
servos (with 60/72 inch-ounce of torque) for all flying surfaces and a
basic Airtronics 322 servo for the throttle. Rudder and elevator servos
were installed under the pilot’s seat on hardwood rails (not provided).
I mounted the cockpit floor to balsa rails with Velcro and attached
the seat to a supporting structure with screws. All of this can easily be
removed for unobstructed access to the servos. I used Du-Bro 4-40 pullpull
cabling (not provided in the kit) for the rudder. The elevator servo
has a Y-shaped pushrod leading to the surfaces.
I located the battery under the tank as far forward as I could get it,
and I placed the receiver under the cockpit floor. The antenna passes
through a tube in the fuselage. The switch was attached inside the
cockpit area but hidden from view.
Flying: I am pleased to report that I didn’t need to add weight to the tail
or nose to achieve a balanced CG.
The best way to take off with a triplane is to hold up-elevator while
powering up but making sure to release most of the up-elevator as soon
as the model lifts off of the ground, flying it out at roughly a 20° incline
to avoid any stall. The Dr.I doesn’t require a long roll; it’s airborne in
15-20 feet.
Once this model is in the air, there’s nothing quite like the “eye
candy” of a triplane. I achieved straight and level flight with five clicks
of down-elevator and two clicks of right aileron.
This aircraft is rather maneuverable (which is why it was a favorite
among German fighter pilots) and can handle an array of aerobatics.
Fifty-foot-diameter loops are easy to perform. The roll rate is
approximately one per second; spins are not too snappy. Inverted flight
requires a slight amount of down-elevator.
This is not a difficult model to fly. Its in-flight characteristics are
predictable and solid—even at slow speed.
Landings can be tricky with a triplane. There is plenty of drag with
three wings, so the airspeed must be maintained. Once the wheels
touch, allow the model to run its course until the tail settles. Keeping in
mind that this aircraft doesn’t have a steerable tail skid, taxiing it
requires full up-elevator with spurts of throttle to keep it moving.
Although this Balsa USA-designed model isn’t 100% true to scale, its
outstanding flying characteristics and awesome good looks more than
make up for any loss in detail. I’m glad that Arizona Model Aircrafters
chose to cover its ARF version in white, “forcing” us modelers to show
some creativity and have some fun.
The Fokker Dr.I flies really well, looks terrific on the ground and in
the air, and is competitively priced, considering that it is a deluxe kit
with many amenities. Visit the Arizona Model Aircrafters Web site for
additional information. MA
Distributor:
Arizona Model Aircrafters
13814 N. 56th Pl.
Scottsdale AZ 85254
(602) 971-5644
Fax: (602) 971-5644
www.arizonamodels.com
List price: $749
Specifications:
Wingspan: 70.75 inches
Wing area: 2,030 square inches
Length: 56 inches
Weight: 15 pounds, 4 ounces
Wing loading: 17.3 ounces per square inch
Engine required: Zenoah G-23 (gas) or 120-150 (four-stroke)
Radio required: Four channels with five servos (throttle, rudder, elevator,
and one for each aileron)
04sig3.QXD 2/25/05 11:20 am Page 86
Edition: Model Aviation - 2005/04
Page Numbers: 83,84,86
P r o d u c t R e v i e w Stan Kulesa
3351 Spruce St., Mohegan Lake NY 10547
THE FOKKER DR.I triplane is a favorite among modelers, and
Arizona Model Aircrafters distributes the most scalelike ARF version
available. It is important to note that the company defines the term
“ARF” as “Almost Ready to Finish” instead of “Almost Ready to Fly.”
You must apply a painted finish.
The Dr.I is shipped in two boxes; one holds the three wings and the
other contains the fuselage, empennage, and assorted items such as a
one-piece fiberglass cowl, aluminum spoked wheels, cockpit coaming,
laser-cut acrylic control horns, and “minikits” for the Spandau machine
guns, instruments, pilot seat, Williams Bros. Gnome rotary engine, etc.
You will need to purchase a tank, control cabling for the rudder,
hinges, a radio, an engine and mount, and paints/glues. Arizona Model
Aircrafters also sells a full-body World War I German pilot; I used one in
the review model.
The overall quality of the materials used throughout was well above
average. I detected no warps in the wings or empennage, and the fuselage
was straight and true.
Four folded sheets of full-size blueprints (and two additional sheets of
scale details) were included, but there was no instruction manual.
Because of this deficiency, you will need to have a basic familiarity with
the Dr.I and technical skills in reading blueprints to assemble the model.
Construction: The airplane’s assembly wasn’t too hard to figure out
(even without an instruction manual). I began by cutting a groove on the
This triplane is extraordinarily maneuverable, with a
moderately high roll rate. Its in-flight characteristics are
predictable and solid, even at slow speed.
In the case of this model, ARF means “Almost Ready to Finish.”
Parts come in two large boxes, and the kit is extremely complete.
Arizona Model Aircrafters Fokker Dr.I ARF
Pros:
• Above-average quality of materials throughout.
• Most scalelike ARF version of the Dr.I available.
• Deluxe kit loaded with extras—an excellent value.
Cons:
• No instruction manual included.
LE of the ailerons so I could epoxy the scale acrylic control horns in place.
I attached the ailerons to the top wing; each aileron had four hinges.
I fit the one-piece wire cabane struts into slots on the middle wing’s
center-section. (The front slot was covered by balsa sheeting, so it had to
be drilled once I located the groove. To find the groove, I poked a pin
through the balsa sheeting until I felt no resistance.) The rear slot is on top
of the center-section.
I attached the cabane struts to the top wing with screws and brackets.
The cabane struts have covered balsa fairings for scale-detail purposes.
The lower wing fit into place snugly.
I applied an oak stain and a clear coat to the outboard struts. Once that
was dry, I fitted them through the middle wing into the top wing.
Aluminum L brackets were used to attach these struts to the top and
middle wings. You must take care to properly measure the spacing
between wings.
Once attached, the top and middle wings stay connected to one
another. After the top two wings are screwed to the fuselage, the bottom
wing is attached and the outboard struts fit into channels on the top of the
bottom wing.
The center-sections and LEs of all three wings are sheeted with balsa,
and the ribs are capstripped. None of the wings have dihedral.
The stabilizer is composed of a flat 3⁄8 x 1⁄4 balsa frame with 1⁄4 x 1⁄4
balsa ribs running perpendicular to the TE. I attached the stabilizer to the
top aft end of the fuselage with 30-minute epoxy and took extra care to
properly align it with the wing. Aluminum tubing serves as braces
between the stabilizer bottom and aft fuselage.
I cut two grooves on the elevator LEs so I could epoxy the scale
acrylic control horns in place. Each elevator half was attached to the
stabilizer with two hinges.
The Dr.I doesn’t have a fin; the one-piece rudder is a flying
surface. The construction is a 1⁄2 x 1⁄4-inch flat open balsa frame with
1⁄4 x 1⁄4 balsa ribs. In deference to the Dr.I’s ground-loop tendency, I
would have liked for the rudder’s frame to have been constructed from
or reinforced with light plywood. However, there is a vertical spar
made from basswood. After the acrylic control horn is added, attach
the rudder to the aft end of the fuselage with three hinges.
Engine installation is simple. I used a Great Planes adjustable
large-engine mount to hold the Saito 150 four-stroke, which is
mounted inverted and tipped to the left so that the stock muffler fits
under the nose’s center-section.
Photos by Subhra Bose
The Williams Bros. dummy engine was modified to fit over the
engine mount. It was attached via screws to hardwood pieces that
were epoxied to the mount.
The fuel tank was not supplied with the Dr.I kit, but as you can
see there is abundant room for its installation!
This model comes covered with all-white iron-on fabric and must
be finished. The author ironed on 3⁄8-inch strips of fabric to simulate
the rib stitching.
The Saito 150 four-stroke engine is mounted to a Great Planes
Adjustable Motor Mount at an angle that allows the stock muffler to
fit under the nose section.
Using a Dremel Moto-Tool, I carefully and slowly carved away
areas of the Williams Bros. dummy engine so it could fit over the
engine mount. Once that was accomplished, I epoxied some hardwood
to the engine mount so that screws passing through the dummy engine
could be attached.
The subwing has three parts (center and two end caps), and they are
attached with metal straps once the 1⁄4-inch-diameter axle passes
through the center part and is rubber-banded (for shock-absorbing
purposes). These removable straps allow for disassembly, if needed, to
replace the rubber bands. The landing gear is fitted into grooved
hardwood blocks on the bottom of the fuselage and screwed into place.
The fuselage uses an open-frame construction with the vertical
braces and top/bottom longerons made from 1⁄4 x 3⁄8 balsa. The nose
section is balsa sheeted. The firewall and four formers are 1⁄4 plywood,
and the formers for the turtledeck are 1⁄4 balsa.
Covering/Finishing: Part of the fun of Scale modeling is determining a
finish. I generally try to pick one I haven’t seen others choose. (There
are too many red triplanes!)
Germany allowed its pilots to personalize their aircraft, and they
took advantage of the privilege. Windsock Datafiles are an excellent
source of color schemes, and Wise Owl Worldwide Publications—
(562) 461-7574—provided me with the heavily requested Dr.I book. Its
data files are complete with three-views, colorized drawings, and many
other facts about the aircraft and its pilots.
The Arizona Model Aircrafters Dr.I is covered with all-white, ironon
fabric, and it must be finished. I ironed on 3⁄8-inch strips of fabric
over the ribs on the wing and empennage to simulate the rib stitching.
To add some texture to the stitch, I made dots by using the end of a Tpin
dipped in Formula 560 glue.
The design I chose was from Jasta 11. I streaked the fore section of
the fuselage and the tops of the wings with olive-drab paint over a tan
base coat to replicate Fokker’s standard camouflage pattern.
I painted the aft end of the fuselage and bottoms of the wings
turquoise. I stained and clear-coated the outboard struts, tail skid, and
cockpit interior, and then I lightly sanded the cowl and painted it
salmon.
I have had exceptional results with the Nelson paint system, and
that’s what I used for the Dr.I. It is unique because it is water-reducible
polyurethane, it has no obnoxious odor, it can be safely used indoors, it
is nonflammable, and it is easy to clean up (using just water).
Nelson Hobby Specialties offers a wide array of colors and custom
tinting. You can contact the company at (877) 263-5766. You must
apply this paint according to its instructions—irrespective of your
experience level.
A scale interior is provided and consists of several “minikits” for the
instruments, throttle control, cockpit floor, rudder-pedal skids, pilot
seat, machine guns, and Williams Bros. engine. Scrap music wire was
used to simulate the lifting handles and the foot step on the fuselage.
86 MODEL AVIATION
Triplanes have a great deal of parasitic drag, so airspeed must be
maintained on landing approaches. Majestic, isn’t it?
The one-piece rudder is a flying surface. It is attached to the
fuselage with three hinges and is activated via an acrylic
control horn.
The 1⁄4-inch axle passes through the subwing’s center-section
and is rubber-banded to provide a shock absorber.
I used Kirby’s Kustom Vinyl Graphics for all of the Dr.I’s
markings. The flat clear I applied over the markings gave it a streaked
(paint-brushed) effect. You can contact Dennis Kirby at (513) 932-
2422.
Radio Installation: The radio-installation process was fairly easy. I
chose the Airtronics RD6000 Super system.
Five servos were needed—one for each aileron, and one for the
elevator, rudder, and throttle. I used Airtronics’ 743 double-ball-bearing
servos (with 60/72 inch-ounce of torque) for all flying surfaces and a
basic Airtronics 322 servo for the throttle. Rudder and elevator servos
were installed under the pilot’s seat on hardwood rails (not provided).
I mounted the cockpit floor to balsa rails with Velcro and attached
the seat to a supporting structure with screws. All of this can easily be
removed for unobstructed access to the servos. I used Du-Bro 4-40 pullpull
cabling (not provided in the kit) for the rudder. The elevator servo
has a Y-shaped pushrod leading to the surfaces.
I located the battery under the tank as far forward as I could get it,
and I placed the receiver under the cockpit floor. The antenna passes
through a tube in the fuselage. The switch was attached inside the
cockpit area but hidden from view.
Flying: I am pleased to report that I didn’t need to add weight to the tail
or nose to achieve a balanced CG.
The best way to take off with a triplane is to hold up-elevator while
powering up but making sure to release most of the up-elevator as soon
as the model lifts off of the ground, flying it out at roughly a 20° incline
to avoid any stall. The Dr.I doesn’t require a long roll; it’s airborne in
15-20 feet.
Once this model is in the air, there’s nothing quite like the “eye
candy” of a triplane. I achieved straight and level flight with five clicks
of down-elevator and two clicks of right aileron.
This aircraft is rather maneuverable (which is why it was a favorite
among German fighter pilots) and can handle an array of aerobatics.
Fifty-foot-diameter loops are easy to perform. The roll rate is
approximately one per second; spins are not too snappy. Inverted flight
requires a slight amount of down-elevator.
This is not a difficult model to fly. Its in-flight characteristics are
predictable and solid—even at slow speed.
Landings can be tricky with a triplane. There is plenty of drag with
three wings, so the airspeed must be maintained. Once the wheels
touch, allow the model to run its course until the tail settles. Keeping in
mind that this aircraft doesn’t have a steerable tail skid, taxiing it
requires full up-elevator with spurts of throttle to keep it moving.
Although this Balsa USA-designed model isn’t 100% true to scale, its
outstanding flying characteristics and awesome good looks more than
make up for any loss in detail. I’m glad that Arizona Model Aircrafters
chose to cover its ARF version in white, “forcing” us modelers to show
some creativity and have some fun.
The Fokker Dr.I flies really well, looks terrific on the ground and in
the air, and is competitively priced, considering that it is a deluxe kit
with many amenities. Visit the Arizona Model Aircrafters Web site for
additional information. MA
Distributor:
Arizona Model Aircrafters
13814 N. 56th Pl.
Scottsdale AZ 85254
(602) 971-5644
Fax: (602) 971-5644
www.arizonamodels.com
List price: $749
Specifications:
Wingspan: 70.75 inches
Wing area: 2,030 square inches
Length: 56 inches
Weight: 15 pounds, 4 ounces
Wing loading: 17.3 ounces per square inch
Engine required: Zenoah G-23 (gas) or 120-150 (four-stroke)
Radio required: Four channels with five servos (throttle, rudder, elevator,
and one for each aileron)
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