88 MODEL AVIATION
AS 2003 COMES to an end, I wish you and your family a safe,
happy, and healthy holiday season and the very best that the new year
has to offer.
The Balsa USA 1⁄4-scale S.E.5a project is in the covering and
painting stage. If all goes well, it should be ready in time for the next
Radio Control (RC) Giants column.
Most of the RC Giants that I see at flying events and those that are
submitted by AMA members are overwhelmingly Scale models. They
are usually sport- or standoff-scale representations of full-scale
aircraft.
While modelers pride themselves in reproducing accurate
miniatures, some stop short of taking the extra step to improve the
appearance of what resides north of the engine. Yes, I’m referring to
the little thing that goes around and around on the front of most
airplanes—the propeller.
This sequence of photos and steps will guide you through the
process of giving your stock wood propeller a more authentic
appearance.
Photo 1. The first photo shows how the stock Zinger 18 x 8 wood
propeller and Zenoah G-38 hub look on the front of my 1⁄4-scale Flair
Dr.I.
Photo 2. I took the stock Zinger 18 x 8 propeller and removed the
finish by using 150-grit sandpaper. You can also use acetone to
remove the finish and then finely sand the propeller. I used a sanding
block with the same 150 grit to round the ends of the stock propeller to
Sal Calvagna, 1335 Broadway Ave., Holbrook NY 11741; E-mail: [email protected]
RADIO CONTROL GIANTS
Photo 2.
Photo 3. Photo 4.
Photo 1.
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:05 am Page 88
90 MODEL AVIATION
shape by eye. I did not use any special equipment—only a common
sanding block.
Photo 3. In a close-up of one side of the propeller, you can see where I
used 220-grit sandpaper to sand it smooth. Make sure that you sand the
whole propeller; unsanded areas will not accept the stain and the finish
will be uneven.
It is best to drill out the propeller and preinstall it at this time. You
will also prebalance the propeller during this step. You don’t want to
sand down a nicely stained propeller to balance it because you will ruin
the finish and all of your hard work. If you prebalance the propeller
now by sanding the heavier side, the final balancing will be much
easier.
Photo 4. I used Minwax stain to color the propeller. You can use any
color that fits your need. The stain can be applied with a brush, rag, or
even a paper towel. Always put the stain on in the same direction as the
grain of the wood. Since the wood is not very porous, you may wish to
put on a couple of coats to get the shade of color that you like.
Photo 5. I used two coats of Special Walnut to stain this propeller, as
you can see in this photo. Once the stain dried, I coated the propeller
with a water-based polyurethane finish. I used a gloss polyurethane that
is also available from Minwax and brushed it on with a small foam
brush. I applied a light coat so that the finish did not run.
The polyurethane dries within 30 minutes and has no odor. The
brush cleans up easily with water. I used water-based polyurethane
because I am installing the propeller on a gasoline engine. If you are
using a glow engine, you must use a finish that is glowproof, such as
LustreKote.
Photo 6. After the first coat of clear polyurethane was dry I applied the
AXIAL Berlin propeller decals that are available from Major Decal
(Northeast Screen Graphics). All of the company’s propeller decals are
water transfer. The decal sheet contains enough to finish one propeller
in 1⁄4, 1⁄5, 1⁄6, and 1⁄8 scale.
The extensive list of propeller decals available includes Falcon,
McCauley, Hamilton Standard, Fahlin, Hartzell, Pratt & Whitney,
Sensenich, AXIAL, Dowty Rotol, Curtiss Electric, and Curtiss. To find
Photo 6.
Photo 5.
Photo 7. Photo 8.
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:15 am Page 90
out more about Major Decal’s products, call (413) 525-4110 or write
to the company at Northeast Screen Graphics, Box 304, East
Longmeadow MA 01028.
When the decal is dry, it is time to add another coat or two of
clear polyurethane. This is the point where the final propeller
balancing is accomplished. I balanced mine by adding coats of clear
finish to the lighter side of the propeller. If you have prebalanced
your propeller, it won’t take much to final-balance your masterpiece.
Photo 7. The AXIAL decal is shown on the stained and clear-coated
propeller.
Photo 8. I replaced the stock hub with a World War I simulated hub
designed by Ralph Vannaman of Menominee, Michigan. The hubs
are machined from steel, weigh 2 ounces, and come in 5⁄16, 8mm, or
10mm sizes. The hubs are available from Balsa USA or directly from
Ralph for $24.95 plus shipping. You can contact Ralph at his E-mail
address, [email protected], or write to him at 2301 13th Ave.,
Menominee MI 49858.
Photo 9. This is the finished assembly. Isn’t that a great-looking
propeller?
Photo 10. The 1⁄4-scale Dr.I makes a smoke pass with its authenticlooking
propeller, although it’s not visible in the air.
Photo 11. Proctor Enterprises has a 20 x 8 laminated propeller and
hub which is designed for its 1⁄4-scale S.E.5a kit. For more than 35
years Proctor has been offering museum-quality kits for the
discriminating modeler. Less known is the company’s long list of
accessories that are available, such as scale propellers, pulleys and
blocks, turnbuckles and eye bolts, cable anchor fittings, wires and
cables, and assorted hardware.
If you are not ready to tackle one of Proctor’s fine-quality kits,
I’m sure that its extensive accessory line from wheels to miniature
92 MODEL AVIATION
Photo 10.
Photo 9.
Photo 11.
screws would come in handy. Call Gary and Joe at Proctor for a copy
of the company’s superb catalog. The cost of the catalog is $7, which
will be deducted from your first order.
You can call Gary and Joe at (503) 678-1300 or write to Proctor
at 25450 N.E. Eilers Rd., Aurora OR 97002.
You too can transform a stock propeller into a more realistic one
with a little time and work. I have detailed the process that I use to
make a World War I-type propeller, but you can just as easily prime
and paint the same stock propeller to simulate a later-era one. Give it
a shot and experiment on your own. That’s what modeling is all
about!
See you next month. MA
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:16 am Page 92
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/01
Page Numbers: 88,90,92
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/01
Page Numbers: 88,90,92
88 MODEL AVIATION
AS 2003 COMES to an end, I wish you and your family a safe,
happy, and healthy holiday season and the very best that the new year
has to offer.
The Balsa USA 1⁄4-scale S.E.5a project is in the covering and
painting stage. If all goes well, it should be ready in time for the next
Radio Control (RC) Giants column.
Most of the RC Giants that I see at flying events and those that are
submitted by AMA members are overwhelmingly Scale models. They
are usually sport- or standoff-scale representations of full-scale
aircraft.
While modelers pride themselves in reproducing accurate
miniatures, some stop short of taking the extra step to improve the
appearance of what resides north of the engine. Yes, I’m referring to
the little thing that goes around and around on the front of most
airplanes—the propeller.
This sequence of photos and steps will guide you through the
process of giving your stock wood propeller a more authentic
appearance.
Photo 1. The first photo shows how the stock Zinger 18 x 8 wood
propeller and Zenoah G-38 hub look on the front of my 1⁄4-scale Flair
Dr.I.
Photo 2. I took the stock Zinger 18 x 8 propeller and removed the
finish by using 150-grit sandpaper. You can also use acetone to
remove the finish and then finely sand the propeller. I used a sanding
block with the same 150 grit to round the ends of the stock propeller to
Sal Calvagna, 1335 Broadway Ave., Holbrook NY 11741; E-mail: [email protected]
RADIO CONTROL GIANTS
Photo 2.
Photo 3. Photo 4.
Photo 1.
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:05 am Page 88
90 MODEL AVIATION
shape by eye. I did not use any special equipment—only a common
sanding block.
Photo 3. In a close-up of one side of the propeller, you can see where I
used 220-grit sandpaper to sand it smooth. Make sure that you sand the
whole propeller; unsanded areas will not accept the stain and the finish
will be uneven.
It is best to drill out the propeller and preinstall it at this time. You
will also prebalance the propeller during this step. You don’t want to
sand down a nicely stained propeller to balance it because you will ruin
the finish and all of your hard work. If you prebalance the propeller
now by sanding the heavier side, the final balancing will be much
easier.
Photo 4. I used Minwax stain to color the propeller. You can use any
color that fits your need. The stain can be applied with a brush, rag, or
even a paper towel. Always put the stain on in the same direction as the
grain of the wood. Since the wood is not very porous, you may wish to
put on a couple of coats to get the shade of color that you like.
Photo 5. I used two coats of Special Walnut to stain this propeller, as
you can see in this photo. Once the stain dried, I coated the propeller
with a water-based polyurethane finish. I used a gloss polyurethane that
is also available from Minwax and brushed it on with a small foam
brush. I applied a light coat so that the finish did not run.
The polyurethane dries within 30 minutes and has no odor. The
brush cleans up easily with water. I used water-based polyurethane
because I am installing the propeller on a gasoline engine. If you are
using a glow engine, you must use a finish that is glowproof, such as
LustreKote.
Photo 6. After the first coat of clear polyurethane was dry I applied the
AXIAL Berlin propeller decals that are available from Major Decal
(Northeast Screen Graphics). All of the company’s propeller decals are
water transfer. The decal sheet contains enough to finish one propeller
in 1⁄4, 1⁄5, 1⁄6, and 1⁄8 scale.
The extensive list of propeller decals available includes Falcon,
McCauley, Hamilton Standard, Fahlin, Hartzell, Pratt & Whitney,
Sensenich, AXIAL, Dowty Rotol, Curtiss Electric, and Curtiss. To find
Photo 6.
Photo 5.
Photo 7. Photo 8.
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:15 am Page 90
out more about Major Decal’s products, call (413) 525-4110 or write
to the company at Northeast Screen Graphics, Box 304, East
Longmeadow MA 01028.
When the decal is dry, it is time to add another coat or two of
clear polyurethane. This is the point where the final propeller
balancing is accomplished. I balanced mine by adding coats of clear
finish to the lighter side of the propeller. If you have prebalanced
your propeller, it won’t take much to final-balance your masterpiece.
Photo 7. The AXIAL decal is shown on the stained and clear-coated
propeller.
Photo 8. I replaced the stock hub with a World War I simulated hub
designed by Ralph Vannaman of Menominee, Michigan. The hubs
are machined from steel, weigh 2 ounces, and come in 5⁄16, 8mm, or
10mm sizes. The hubs are available from Balsa USA or directly from
Ralph for $24.95 plus shipping. You can contact Ralph at his E-mail
address, [email protected], or write to him at 2301 13th Ave.,
Menominee MI 49858.
Photo 9. This is the finished assembly. Isn’t that a great-looking
propeller?
Photo 10. The 1⁄4-scale Dr.I makes a smoke pass with its authenticlooking
propeller, although it’s not visible in the air.
Photo 11. Proctor Enterprises has a 20 x 8 laminated propeller and
hub which is designed for its 1⁄4-scale S.E.5a kit. For more than 35
years Proctor has been offering museum-quality kits for the
discriminating modeler. Less known is the company’s long list of
accessories that are available, such as scale propellers, pulleys and
blocks, turnbuckles and eye bolts, cable anchor fittings, wires and
cables, and assorted hardware.
If you are not ready to tackle one of Proctor’s fine-quality kits,
I’m sure that its extensive accessory line from wheels to miniature
92 MODEL AVIATION
Photo 10.
Photo 9.
Photo 11.
screws would come in handy. Call Gary and Joe at Proctor for a copy
of the company’s superb catalog. The cost of the catalog is $7, which
will be deducted from your first order.
You can call Gary and Joe at (503) 678-1300 or write to Proctor
at 25450 N.E. Eilers Rd., Aurora OR 97002.
You too can transform a stock propeller into a more realistic one
with a little time and work. I have detailed the process that I use to
make a World War I-type propeller, but you can just as easily prime
and paint the same stock propeller to simulate a later-era one. Give it
a shot and experiment on your own. That’s what modeling is all
about!
See you next month. MA
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:16 am Page 92
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/01
Page Numbers: 88,90,92
88 MODEL AVIATION
AS 2003 COMES to an end, I wish you and your family a safe,
happy, and healthy holiday season and the very best that the new year
has to offer.
The Balsa USA 1⁄4-scale S.E.5a project is in the covering and
painting stage. If all goes well, it should be ready in time for the next
Radio Control (RC) Giants column.
Most of the RC Giants that I see at flying events and those that are
submitted by AMA members are overwhelmingly Scale models. They
are usually sport- or standoff-scale representations of full-scale
aircraft.
While modelers pride themselves in reproducing accurate
miniatures, some stop short of taking the extra step to improve the
appearance of what resides north of the engine. Yes, I’m referring to
the little thing that goes around and around on the front of most
airplanes—the propeller.
This sequence of photos and steps will guide you through the
process of giving your stock wood propeller a more authentic
appearance.
Photo 1. The first photo shows how the stock Zinger 18 x 8 wood
propeller and Zenoah G-38 hub look on the front of my 1⁄4-scale Flair
Dr.I.
Photo 2. I took the stock Zinger 18 x 8 propeller and removed the
finish by using 150-grit sandpaper. You can also use acetone to
remove the finish and then finely sand the propeller. I used a sanding
block with the same 150 grit to round the ends of the stock propeller to
Sal Calvagna, 1335 Broadway Ave., Holbrook NY 11741; E-mail: [email protected]
RADIO CONTROL GIANTS
Photo 2.
Photo 3. Photo 4.
Photo 1.
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:05 am Page 88
90 MODEL AVIATION
shape by eye. I did not use any special equipment—only a common
sanding block.
Photo 3. In a close-up of one side of the propeller, you can see where I
used 220-grit sandpaper to sand it smooth. Make sure that you sand the
whole propeller; unsanded areas will not accept the stain and the finish
will be uneven.
It is best to drill out the propeller and preinstall it at this time. You
will also prebalance the propeller during this step. You don’t want to
sand down a nicely stained propeller to balance it because you will ruin
the finish and all of your hard work. If you prebalance the propeller
now by sanding the heavier side, the final balancing will be much
easier.
Photo 4. I used Minwax stain to color the propeller. You can use any
color that fits your need. The stain can be applied with a brush, rag, or
even a paper towel. Always put the stain on in the same direction as the
grain of the wood. Since the wood is not very porous, you may wish to
put on a couple of coats to get the shade of color that you like.
Photo 5. I used two coats of Special Walnut to stain this propeller, as
you can see in this photo. Once the stain dried, I coated the propeller
with a water-based polyurethane finish. I used a gloss polyurethane that
is also available from Minwax and brushed it on with a small foam
brush. I applied a light coat so that the finish did not run.
The polyurethane dries within 30 minutes and has no odor. The
brush cleans up easily with water. I used water-based polyurethane
because I am installing the propeller on a gasoline engine. If you are
using a glow engine, you must use a finish that is glowproof, such as
LustreKote.
Photo 6. After the first coat of clear polyurethane was dry I applied the
AXIAL Berlin propeller decals that are available from Major Decal
(Northeast Screen Graphics). All of the company’s propeller decals are
water transfer. The decal sheet contains enough to finish one propeller
in 1⁄4, 1⁄5, 1⁄6, and 1⁄8 scale.
The extensive list of propeller decals available includes Falcon,
McCauley, Hamilton Standard, Fahlin, Hartzell, Pratt & Whitney,
Sensenich, AXIAL, Dowty Rotol, Curtiss Electric, and Curtiss. To find
Photo 6.
Photo 5.
Photo 7. Photo 8.
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:15 am Page 90
out more about Major Decal’s products, call (413) 525-4110 or write
to the company at Northeast Screen Graphics, Box 304, East
Longmeadow MA 01028.
When the decal is dry, it is time to add another coat or two of
clear polyurethane. This is the point where the final propeller
balancing is accomplished. I balanced mine by adding coats of clear
finish to the lighter side of the propeller. If you have prebalanced
your propeller, it won’t take much to final-balance your masterpiece.
Photo 7. The AXIAL decal is shown on the stained and clear-coated
propeller.
Photo 8. I replaced the stock hub with a World War I simulated hub
designed by Ralph Vannaman of Menominee, Michigan. The hubs
are machined from steel, weigh 2 ounces, and come in 5⁄16, 8mm, or
10mm sizes. The hubs are available from Balsa USA or directly from
Ralph for $24.95 plus shipping. You can contact Ralph at his E-mail
address, [email protected], or write to him at 2301 13th Ave.,
Menominee MI 49858.
Photo 9. This is the finished assembly. Isn’t that a great-looking
propeller?
Photo 10. The 1⁄4-scale Dr.I makes a smoke pass with its authenticlooking
propeller, although it’s not visible in the air.
Photo 11. Proctor Enterprises has a 20 x 8 laminated propeller and
hub which is designed for its 1⁄4-scale S.E.5a kit. For more than 35
years Proctor has been offering museum-quality kits for the
discriminating modeler. Less known is the company’s long list of
accessories that are available, such as scale propellers, pulleys and
blocks, turnbuckles and eye bolts, cable anchor fittings, wires and
cables, and assorted hardware.
If you are not ready to tackle one of Proctor’s fine-quality kits,
I’m sure that its extensive accessory line from wheels to miniature
92 MODEL AVIATION
Photo 10.
Photo 9.
Photo 11.
screws would come in handy. Call Gary and Joe at Proctor for a copy
of the company’s superb catalog. The cost of the catalog is $7, which
will be deducted from your first order.
You can call Gary and Joe at (503) 678-1300 or write to Proctor
at 25450 N.E. Eilers Rd., Aurora OR 97002.
You too can transform a stock propeller into a more realistic one
with a little time and work. I have detailed the process that I use to
make a World War I-type propeller, but you can just as easily prime
and paint the same stock propeller to simulate a later-era one. Give it
a shot and experiment on your own. That’s what modeling is all
about!
See you next month. MA
01sig3.QXD 10/27/03 10:16 am Page 92