IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64
Edition: Model Aviation - 2003/08
Page Numbers: 54,55,56,57,58,59,60,61,64
IF YOU HAVE followed this series from
the beginning, you know that I have already
discussed a typical three-channel radiocontrol
system (the Hitec Neon), and last
month I introduced you to the components
of an electric power system that is capable
of flying a Radio Control (RC) model
aircraft. At this point we have the RC and
power systems, and we need a model to
complete the package.
There are so many aircraft choices today
for the beginning RC modeler. You can
purchase a model that is essentially ready to
fly, with the motor and radio system
installed at the factory. With a few minutes
of your time you can be at the flying field
for that first flight lesson.
There are not that many ready-built
models available yet; some are not the best
choice for a beginner, and they can be quite
expensive. A better choice is a model that
comes essentially prebuilt, but it does
require final assembly and you must install
the radio and power systems. I favor this
approach for a starter, and that will be the
subject of this article.
However, there are two other categories
of model aircraft with which you will
eventually become familiar. One involves
building from a manufactured kit. You
assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the
airplane as applicable, and install all of the
equipment.
The other category is what we call
“scratch building.” You purchase plans
offered as part of a published model design
in one of the hobby publications or you can
“roll your own” and make your own designs
as you gain experience. When scratch
building you must buy the wood and
materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble
them, cover the aircraft, and install the
equipment.
A beginner can have the skills necessary
to do this if given the proper detailed
instructions. I have an extremely simple
design I call the “Scratch-One” which will
be featured two installments from now. That
article will enable you to use this same RC
and power system in your first scratch-built
model.
What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost
Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with
the structure entirely framed and covered
(where applicable). To keep the shipping
box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are
shipped disassembled.
The wings will usually be two or more
panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces
(stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed
at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes
you are required to install the elevator and
rudder with supplied hinges. In each case
you will have to install the power and RC
systems.
On average, an ARF will require
approximately a week of casual work to get
from the shipping box to the flying field. If
built from a manufactured kit, that same
model might take upward of a month to
complete.
The other good news is the cost. ARFs
are made in such large quantities that it is
often possible to purchase them for less than
$100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as
much to build from a kit or plans since
54 MODEL AVIATION
Assembling an Electric-Powered ■ Bob Aberle ARF
Contents of AeroCraft Pogo ARF kit ($89.95). Wood structure is framed, covered with
Litespan. Only requires a few days of assembly to go from kit box to flying field.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 54
individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have
the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the
thrill of radio-controlled flight.
Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power
system for a small model that is supplied as “plug and play”; that
means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All
you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.
I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for
models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor
than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then
learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far
less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is
perfect for a rank beginner.
Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of
many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I’ll provide many
sources for these models at the end of this article.
Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types
up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all
the way up to 1⁄4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30
pounds.
The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To
narrow the field this first time around I’ve centered on a Speed 400-
size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a
gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1⁄2A size (.049-
cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying
models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.
The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a
wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with
basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle.
Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which
makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.
August 2003 55
Electric-powered Pogo is perfect RC model for first-time pilot. At left is Hitec Neon three-channel transmitter that controls model in flight.
Combination of RC system and electric-power-system
components described last month. At top are two Hitec servos
and Hitec Electron 6 dual-conversion receiver. In center is eightcell
1100 mAh NiMH battery pack which operates RC system and
motor. At left is Speed 400 six-volt motor. At bottom is Jeti JES
110 ESC.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia Whitehead
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:14 pm Page 55
56 MODEL AVIATION
You will need to purchase five-minute epoxy (two parts), CyA
medium-thick cement with accelerator, sandpaper, straightedge,
nylon ties, rubber bands, pliers, X-Acto knife.
First item of assembly involves cementing three balsa wing
pylon pieces together. Straightedge keeps everything lined up.
Drill the two 3⁄32-inch-diameter holes in the wing pylon to accept
the wire wing-panel joiners.
Add two plywood pieces at nose of fuselage. They will act to
support motor when it is later mounted at that location.
One of two 1⁄8-inch-diameter wood dowels that will help anchor
the two servos in position on either side of the fuselage.
Both servo-mounting dowels are in place. Scotch 1⁄2-inch-wide
Mounting Tape is useful for several assembly applications.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:16 pm Page 56
For now the choices have been made for
you to simplify the learning process. With
experience you will learn to make your own
model choices. There are even computer
programs that can help you with this
process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio,
propeller size, and battery (number of cells
and capacity).
AeroCraft Pogo: My choice for this series
is Craig Wagner’s AeroCraft Pogo. It is
available direct from AeroCraft for $89.95
plus $6 shipping charges. New York state
residents must add appropriate tax. Kirk
Massey of New Creations R/C offers this
same kit. Kirk supplies the complete
electric power system as described last
month.
The Pogo is intended for geared Speed
280/300 power or Speed 400 direct drive.
The smaller geared motors can keep the
model weight down to roughly 12-13
ounces, but the performance can be
somewhat marginal, especially in winds
exceeding 5 mph. My choice of a Speed
400 motor provides a power reserve that
can make flying more comfortable for the
beginner pilot and his/her instructor.
When dealing with model aircraft,
certain design parameters are important.
Wing area is of primary importance. The
Pogo has 216 square inches (sq. in.) of wing
area. Total model weight is also significant.
With the recommended eight-cell 1100
mAh NiMH battery pack discussed last
month, the Pogo ended up at 15.8 ounces,
which is actually more than its nominal
design weight.
If you integrate wing area and weight,
you come up with another vital parameter:
wing loading. It is expressed as ounces per
square feet (oz./sq. ft.). At 15.8 ounces, the
Pogo has a wing loading of 10.5 oz./sq. ft.
Because of the generous wing area, this
wing-loading figure is well suited for a
beginning RC pilot.
The ample power from the Speed 400
will allow you to throttle back considerably
during flight; that will reduce your motorcurrent
drain, therefore extending the motor
run time. Normally at full throttle this
combination, motor, propeller, and battery
could provide approximately a five- to sixminute
run time, all at full throttle.
With some throttling back during the
flight, it is possible to get the motor to run
upward of 8-10 minutes. That would be
comparable to what could be expected from
a fuel engine on a normal-size tank.
What Comes in the Kit? As received, the
Pogo comes with two assembled and
covered wing panels, an assembled and
covered stabilizer, elevator, vertical fin, and
rudder. The fuselage is primarily a carbon
tube approximately 1⁄4 inch in diameter. All
August 2003 57
Mounting Tape has been placed on side of fuselage. Servo is
pressed onto tape. Rubber band goes around servo for good
measure.
Bottom view shows servos mounted and rubber bands in place.
Note how carbon tube was mounted to forward balsa fuselage
structure (by the manufacturer!).
Top view shows servos in position on either side of fuselage.
The Hitec Electron 6 RC receiver is attached to the fuselage with
Mounting Tape and a rubber band.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:17 pm Page 57
of the necessary fuselage parts are die-cut,
ready for assembly
The landing-gear wire is prebent to
shape, and a pair of suitable lightweight
wheels is included. Hinge material is
provided for the control surfaces. The
control hookup employs a simple pull-pull
string system that is easy to install.
Most important, AeroCraft includes an
excellent instruction booklet that contains
sufficient diagrams to tell the whole story.
The manual does not include actual
photographs, so I will supply the photos
here that I took during my assembly of the
Pogo.
What Will You Still Need to Buy? A
thick, or slow-setting, cyanoacrylate glue
(CyA) along with an accelerator is
required. This is available in many brands.
My choice was the NHP medium gapfilling
CyA formula that I obtained from
Balsa Products Inc.
Also important is a five-minute epoxy
cement. Again I used the NHP brand from
Balsa Products. Some double-stick, 1⁄2-
inch-wide x 1⁄16-inch-thick Mounting Tape
(Scotch brand 110) can be helpful in
attaching the servos, receiver, speed
controller, and the motor to the fuselage.
Several nylon ties from RadioShack
hold the motor in place. They can also be
used to bundle up some of the excess
wiring. A few small rubber bands will be
needed to attach the servos, receiver, and
battery pack. You can find a good selection
of rubber bands at Staples or Office Max.
Tools Required: Since the manufacturer
has done most of the building, only a
handful of simple tools are required. A
standard X-Acto model-builder’s knife
with a #11 blade is a must. A pair of
needle-nose and diagonal-cutting pliers are
helpful. A small Phillips-head screwdriver
is required to remove and swap servo
output arms.
The instructions call for an electric drill
with bits 1⁄16, 3⁄32, 1⁄8, and 3⁄16 inch in
diameter. A straightedge is recommended. A
few grades of relatively fine sandpaper
(such as 200 and 400 grit) will help round
some edges. A small amount of clear
silicone adhesive helps secure the motor to
the fuselage.
With some ARF kits you end up
buying accessory parts such as control
horns, clevises, control rods, hinges,
wheels, and the like. In some cases these
items are included, but they may not be
the type and quality you expect. In the
case of the Pogo, everything necessary for
final assembly was supplied and I used
it—with a few exceptions. I will mention
those as we go along.
Instructions: I was happy with the
instruction manual that AeroCraft
supplied. It was well organized and easy to
follow. The diagrams inserted throughout
the text are certainly adequate. As I
mentioned, there are no photos.
58 MODEL AVIATION
This and next two points are crucial. The two 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-panel joiner wires have been half coated with epoxy
cement, inserted in one panel with other half protruding.
First panel with protruding wire joiners is coated on end rib with
epoxy, then inserted through holes in pylon. Panel is pushed all
the way up to pylon.
Other wing panel was also coated with epoxy on inside rib and
pressed onto protruding wires. It was also pushed all the way up
until panel was flush with other side of pylon. Sandwich is
completed and wing is permanently joined to pylon.
The stabilizer is temporarily mounted to the two plywood tabs
that slip over the aft end of the carbon fuselage tube.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:18 pm Page 58
I followed the recommended assembly
procedure exactly. During the assembly I
did find a few tricks that I will pass on to
you. However, you will not experience any
problems if you follow the AeroCraft
instructions faithfully.
Assembly Process: I won’t take you
through this step by step because I will
only be repeating what is already in the
instructions, but I will mention the things I
did in a slightly different fashion.
I epoxied (use five-minute epoxy
cement) the assembled balsa wing pylon
into the groove that was precut into the
balsa portion of the forward fuselage
structure. Two dowels are used to mount
the two RC servos to the fuselage
structure. A rubber band goes around the
bottom of each servo to hold it tight
against the dowels.
After doing that, both servos still
moved considerably. I removed each
servo, applied CyA to seal the balsa
surface, then applied a piece of Scotchbrand
1⁄2-inch-wide Mounting Tape (this is
essentially a double-stick tape) to the area
where the servos attach. I pressed the
servo cases against the tape then added the
rubber bands (one per servo), which makes
a nice, firm mount.
The wing panels must be joined on
either side of the wing pylon, like a
sandwich. Surprisingly, the wing is
permanently cemented to the pylon; once
in place, it cannot be removed. If you have
a small vehicle, transportation to the flying
field might prove to be a problem. On the
plus side, everything will stay positively
aligned once in place.
The recommendation was to use a
carpenter’s-type (white glue) cement
because it dries slowly and will give you
enough time to get everything set up
properly. I chose a slightly different
procedure.
I coated half of each 3⁄32-inch-diameter
wing-joiner wire with five-minute epoxy
cement and inserted the wires halfway into
the two holes in the carbon wing spars (on
just one panel to start). These wires are
prebent to the correct dihedral angle (the
“V” angle) of the wing panels. I made sure
both wires were aligned so that the upward
bend of the “V” was toward the top of the
wing. I let the cement on these two wires
cure for approximately 15 minutes.
I passed the wires that were protruding
from the first wing panel through the holes
that I drilled at the top of the balsa wing
pylon. I pressed the panel up against the
pylon, then I installed the opposite wing
panel onto the wires protruding from the
pylon. I pressed the wing panel up against
the pylon. This was a trial run.
I checked to make sure that everything
was aligned, then I removed both wing
panels. I used five-minute epoxy because
of its strength, but keep in mind that you
must work fast once you mix the cement.
As soon as the equal parts of the epoxy
are mixed, apply a coating of cement to the
inside of the wing panel that has the
protruding wires. Slide the panel up until
the end rib of that panel is pressing against
the pylon. Quickly apply more epoxy to
the inside of the second wing panel and to
the protruding wires.
Insert the panel on these wires and
press it until it is flush against the pylon.
Hold onto this assembly for a couple of
minutes, until the cement cures. I found
this to be an easy alternative and
considerably stronger than if I had used the
carpenter’s glue.
When you get to the horizontal
stabilizer, first you mount it to two
August 2003 59
Drop of CyA is placed at each hinge to help anchor it in place.
Use accelerator to speed cement-curing process. Test to make
sure control surface can flex freely and is not binding in any way.
Pull on control surface to make sure cement did its job.
X-Acto knife blade cuts slots for lightweight hinge material. These
are inserted in slots and join elevator to stabilizer and rudder to
vertical fin.
Landing-gear assembly ready for installation on fuselage.
Landing gear is mounted to forward fuselage, just in front of
wing pylon. Use epoxy cement here for extra strength.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:19 pm Page 59
Electron 6 is ready for mounting. Both servo cables plug into
ports 1 and 2. The ESC cable plugs into port 3.
Notice how thread is passed through holes of servo output arm
(both sides), then travels out to rear of Pogo where they are
attached to dowel control horns.
It is important to note that threads are attached to the dowel
control horns on the rudder and the elevator.
ESC is mounted to left side of wing pylon with help of doublestick
Mounting Tape. Battery pack at bottom is held in place with
four rubber bands. Excess cable length is bundled together and
held in place with a couple of extra nylon ties.
Front end of Pogo after assembly is complete. ESC switch is
attached to landing-gear leg with help of nylon tie. Simple!
Completed Pogo has 36-inch wingspan, wing area is 216 square
inches, total weight is 15.8 ounces, wing loading is 10.5 ounces
per square foot. Manufacturer had already applied yellow
Litespan. Next month we fly Pogo for the first time.
60 MODEL AVIATION
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:21 pm Page 60
plywood support pieces. After doing that,
you remove or slide the stabilizer off of
the carbon fuselage boom. At this point the
hinge material is installed in knife slots
that you cut into the surfaces; you do this
for the elevator and rudder. Keep enough
of a separation between the surfaces so
that they can flex properly. A drop of CyA
at each hinge will help anchor them in
place. When the CyA cures, you are
advised to pull on the elevator and rudder
to make sure that the hinges are positively
anchored in place.
When installing the stabilizer on the
fuselage boom, it is important that you
eyeball the alignment with respect to the
wing position on the pylon. When
satisfied, apply epoxy to the stabilizer
mounting brackets. A slot is cut on top of
the stabilizer that will accept the vertical
fin and rudder. Eyeball the alignment with
respect to the wing and stabilizer, then
apply some CyA.
The landing gear is straightforward.
Using some of the strong thread supplied
in the kit, attach the wire to a plywood
bracket. The lightweight plastic wheels are
held in place using the thread and some
CyA. I applied a piece of double-stick
Mounting Tape under the receiver, along
with a rubber band to hold it in position.
Up front I placed a short length of
Mounting Tape on the top of the fuselage
in the area where you mount the motor. I
wrapped two nylon ties around the motor
casing to secure it in place. Then I applied
clear silicone adhesive to the ties to
prevent them from moving out of position
and to prevent the motor case from
revolving.
The battery pack is held in position
with four small rubber bands. This is nice
because you can easily remove the battery
for charging purposes or swap it with a
second battery to help extend your flying
time.
The last item is hooking up the controls
so that the servos properly operate the
rudder and elevator. In the installment on
radio-system installation I showed the
more common rod-within-a-rod control
linkage that is the most popular today.
AeroCraft recommends a pull-pull system
using a heavy-duty thread. It looked easy
and required nothing more than the thread,
which is provided.
Before starting to install the thread you
must power up your full RC system,
making sure that the rudder and elevator
trim levers are in their neutral positions.
Before applying the power, it’s a good idea
to remove the propeller to preclude any
accident should the motor start
inadvertently. After neutralizing the
control positions, turn all of the power off.
You can see in the photos how the
thread is passed through the two outer
holes of the servo output arm. A drop of
CyA will prevent the thread from slipping
through the holes. On the particular servos
I employed, the output arm touched the
wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off
approximately 1⁄8 inch of the outer portion
of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two
still remained!).
Run both ends of the thread out to the
rear of the model, and attach one to the top
of the dowel control horn and the other to
the bottom. Pull each end of the thread
tight, wrap it around the dowel horn
several times, then place a drop of CyA on
the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat
this process for the rudder. You end up
with four lengths of thread running from
the servos to the rear of the model (two for
the elevator and two for the rudder).
I’ll write more next month about
verifying the correct control direction and
the amount of control movement necessary
for your first flight.
I mounted the Electronic Speed Control
(ESC) on the side of the pylon with the
help of more Mounting Tape. There is
some excess wire or cabling because of the
short distances between components. I
bundled up some of this excess wire and
tied it together with a couple of extra
nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the
ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the
landing-gear legs.
The final item was to run the receiver
antenna wire out to the top of the vertical
fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is
quite a bit of excess antenna wire that
trails beyond the model. Don’t be tempted
August 2003 61
Big is Better and Safer too!
The IMAA is an international organization was formed April 10,
1980 to promote non-competitive, educational, safe, relaxed flying
of LARGE radio controlled model aircraft throughout the world.
We are the largest Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Special
Interest Group and as such, are committed to representing the
interest of our members in AMA related matters.
Members enjoy the privilege of
participation in hundreds of Fly-ins
and Rallies each year – including
IMAA’s own Rally of Giants).
Don’t wait. Join today! For complete
membership details, visit our web site
(www.fly-imaa.org) or give us a call
toll free at – 866 366-4622.
High-Flight,
the publication of the IMAA, is
published quarterly and is sent to
all members. High-Flight is
dedicated to the advancement of
large r/c aircraft by concentrating
on new products, techniques, and
innovations developed through
the activities of IMAA Chapters
and individuals around the world.
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 61
64 MODEL AVIATION
Aviation section at http://modelaircraft.org/
mag/index.htm), so it will always be in
one place for your easy reference. Your
comments and questions are welcome as
always. We want to hear from you! MA
Bob Aberle
Manufacturers/suppliers:
Complete electric power system
described last month:
New Creations R/C
Box 497
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
Excellent small electric-powered ARFs:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Dymond Modelsports
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego CA 92111
(858) 495-0092
Fax: (858) 495-0096
and
683 N. Main St.
Oshkosh WI 54901
(920) 303-1100
Fax: (920) 303-2021
www.rc-dymond.com
Great Planes Model Distributors
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660 or (217) 398-6300
[email protected]
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Cir.
Brentwood TN 37027
(615) 373-1444
Sales: [email protected]
www.hobby-lobby.com
Horizon Hobby Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 355-9511
www.horizonhobby.com
Northeast Sailplane Products
948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12
Colchester VT 05446
(802) 655-7700
www.nesail.com
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
Hitec Neon three-channel RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
to cut any of this wire off because it will
adversely affect the radio range.
How Long Did It Take? I tried to time
myself during the assembly process. I was
slowed down by the photo-taking process,
but I’d say it took me roughly three days
total time, estimating approximately six
hours a day; I figure a total of 18 working
hours.
Final Balance and Weight: As I reported
earlier, the Pogo’s final weight was 15.8
ounces—slightly more than the specified
maximum of 13 ounces. But consider that
I’m using a battery of 1100 mAh capacity
that weighs 6 ounces by itself.
This model’s balance point, or center
of gravity (CG), is specified as two
inches back from the wing leading edge.
With the battery pack located just behind
the motor, the Pogo balanced almost
perfect. No additional ballast was
necessary.
Next month I will finish the Pogo’s
checkout, then I will take you out to the
field for that first series of flights. I have
my student pilot all set for this occasion.
The weather situation here on Long
Island should soon be improving as
spring arrives.
Every installment of this series is
posted on AMA’s Web site (in the Model
08sig2.QXD 5.23.03 2:22 pm Page 64