104 MODEL AVIATION
ALTHOUGH both
the Deans Ultra
and Anderson
Powerpole are
excellent
connectors, some
people shy away
from the Deans
because of the
perceived difficulty
in soldering. They
can be tricky for
the novice, and you
can easily destroy
the connector if
you are not careful.
I prefer the Deans Ultra because it is a bit more compact than the
Powerpole.
I’ll share the soldering technique I use. Before you start, you
need the proper tools. They are:
• 40-watt soldering iron with 1/4-inch chisel
tip
• Iron holder
• Wet sponge to clean iron
• Helping hands
• Rosin-core solder and solder paste (Do
not use acid-core solder or paste!)
Prep the Deans plug by tinning the
positive and negative terminals on the side
to which you will be soldering. On the
soldering-tab side of the plug, marks
molded into the plastic indicate which of
the two tabs is positive; the other is
negative.
We use the female plug for the battery,
because exposed terminals might be
subjected to accidental contact. The female
lead’s embedded contact points are
relatively safe from foreign conductors that
could cause damage or fire from what a
direct short across the terminals would
create.
For safety’s sake, double-check the lead
wires when connecting a new ESC or
battery. Make sure that red is attaching to
red and black is connecting to black. Let’s
begin.
1. Strip the positive wire 1/8 inch from
the end. Twist the exposed copper strands
with a rolling motion of your thumb and
forefinger so that there are no strays.
2. Tin the wire with a good soldering
iron. I recommend a 40-watt iron with a
1/4-inch chisel tip for good heat transfer.
You should have a wet kitchen sponge and
a wad of steel wool, in a small can, nearby
to frequently clean slag from the tip. Lay
the wire on the side of the iron tip and
touch where the wire touches the iron with
rosin-core solder.
The Battery Clinic Red Scholefield | [email protected]
Also included in this column:
• Throttle lock for electrics
• New FMA Direct brushless
ESCs
• Hughes Spectra 4 update
available
• Refresh your three-wheel
band saw
• Free canopies
Correct Deans Ultra connector soldering technique
Soldering correctly requires the right tools. Paste (or flux) is
used to prevent oxidation and promote the flow of hot solder.
Deans soldering sequence 1-6 outlines the wire and connector preparation. Flattening
the tinned wire significantly strengthens the solder joint.
Deans soldering sequence 7-9 shows how a strong solder joint looks and how to
insulate the exposed terminals.
1 2 3
4
7 8
9
5 6
01sig4.QXD 11/24/08 2:17 PM Page 104
January 2009 105
If soldering to battery leads, do one at a time to avoid the risk
of accidentally shorting the leads.
3. Starting with the positive wire (red), compress the tinned lead
in a small bench vice or with a pair of vise grips. This forms a flat
surface, increasing the surface area of the joint to be soldered.
4. Put a 1/2-inch piece of 3/16-inch-diameter heat shrink on the
wire, and then position the prepared end with “alligator hands”
(helping hands) on the inside surface of the previously tinned
surface of the positive terminal. (Looking at the plug upright, it’s
the plug laying horizontally and is usually marked “+,” except on
some poor-quality imported copies.)
5. Apply the freshly tinned tip of the iron to the junction of the
wire and the terminal for a second or so, until the solder flows and
makes the bond.
6. A correctly soldered joint will have cooled solder that is
smooth and has a semigloss sheen. Tug on the wire to make sure
it’s secure.
7. Once soldered,
slip the heat shrink
over the joint and
shrink it tight with a
heat gun. Complete
the negative
connection in the
same manner.
The negative
connector (the one
running up and
down) is slightly
Some soft-drink bottles can be used to make an airplane canopy. Pinching and then
heating the ends can help them fit a particular application.
FMA Direct offers an optional Quazar
Programming Card for quickly and easily
adjusting the default factory settings.
offset. Position the tinned and flattened wire against the terminal
where there is the most space, and solder. When cool, slide the heat
shrink over the joint and shrink it in place.
8. There you have it: a finished battery pack. Oh, that little hole
in the connector is so that snap-ring pliers can be used to separate
the connectors. A little Vaseline wiped on the pins helps.
Throttle Lock for Electrics: Nothing will ruin your day like a 750-
watt motor unexpectedly coming on at full speed. One of the best
safety ideas I’ve seen was published in the August 2007 R/C Report.
Peter Forlenza wrote:
“The concept is simple, I wanted to use a toggle switch on my
transmitter to enable or disable the throttle stick, to avoid
accidentally causing the electric motor to run.
“The complexity of the programming will depend on your
transmitter and your familiarity with its requirements. Note that you
must have a computer transmitter with a free mix available, and the
ability to assign the mix to the switch required for the throttle lock.
You must also be familiar with setting up a mix on your radio.
During the programming I recommend using a servo connected to
the throttle channel instead of an ESC, to make it easier and safer to
see what’s going on.
“I’m using an Airtronics Infinity 660 and a Futaba 9CAP, and
the only difference is in the mixing points. First the mix should be
throttle to throttle, and set the rate to -100% for up and down stick.
“Next, comes the mixing point, which is set to the fully closed
throttle stick setting. For Airtronics it’s -100%, and for the Futaba
it’s 0% offset. This is usually set by pressing the input key with the
throttle in the fully closed position.
“Make sure the trim is zeroed. With the 9CAP you have to hold
down the Dial key for one second to input the value; boy, did I ever
have to play around to learn that—just try finding it in the manual.
“Now all that’s left is to assign a switch of your choice. I use a
switch on the left with its down position as the throttle lock, and its
up position as the ‘motor enabled’ position.
“You may choose to set it up differently. Now it should be easy
to see the results with the servo on the throttle channel. With the
lock disabled the servo should move normally. Observe the servo
arm location with the throttle stick fully closed. When the lock is
enabled the servo should stay in (or go to) that position, regardless
of throttle stick movement.
“In use I keep the switch in ‘lock’ until I’m ready to hit the
throttle. I also use the same switch to start/stop the flight timer. I
also switch to ‘lock’ the moment I land, reducing the chances of
‘surgical alterations’ of body parts when picking up the airplane. I
hope this works for you and your setup as well.”
Thank you, Gordon Banks of R/C Report, for allowing me to use
this letter.
FMA Direct’s new Quazar line of brushless motor controllers is
available in five sizes: 18A, 30A, 40A, 60A, and 80A. The 18A and
30A are linear BECs, while the 40A, 60A, and 80A are switchmode
BECs for reliable power for up to five servos when a 4S Li-
Poly is used and up to four servos when a 5-6S Li-Poly is used.
FMA Direct’s Quazar 60A is one of five ESCs in the new brushless
controller line. The author tested this one in his Telemaster.
01sig4.QXD 11/24/08 12:53 PM Page 105
The Quazars feature:
• Auto low-voltage protection that works
with Li-Poly, LiFePO4, or Ni-Cd/NiMH
batteries.
• Extreme low-output resistance for high
power and cool operating temperatures.
• Overtemperature protection.
• Lost-signal throttle cutoff.
• Three programmable start modes optimize
for fixed wing vs. helicopter operation
(normal, soft, super-soft).
• User-configurable throttle range.
• Smooth, linear-feel throttle response.
• Separate voltage regulator for
microprocessor to improve noise immunity.
• Supported motor speed of 210,000 rpm
(two poles), 70,000 rpm (six poles), and
35,000 rpm (12 poles).
• An available programming card ($9.95) that
works with any ESC in the Quazar line.
The programmable features (using the
transmitter throttle stick or Quazar
Programming Card) include:
• Brake (on/off)
• Battery type (Lithium or Ni-Cd/NiMH)
• Cutoff mode (normal or soft cutout)
• Cutoff threshold (low, medium, high)
• Cutoff mode (normal or soft cutout)
• Cutoff threshold (low, medium, high)
• Start-up mode (normal, soft, super-soft)
• Timing (low, medium, high)
• Reset to factory defaults
106 MODEL AVIATION
You can cycle through the various
functions with the keys at the bottom of the
programmer. When satisfied, hit the “OK”
button. Each Quazar BEC’s operating manual
is downloadable from the FMA Direct Web
site.
I am flying the 60A Quazar in my
Telemaster Electro with an AXi 2826-12
motor and 4S2P A123 battery, and it is great;
I am experiencing the smoothest throttle
response yet. The 60-amp Quazar’s
specifications are:
Size: 70mm x 31mm x 14mm
Weight: 65 grams
Ratings: 60 amps continuous, 80 amps burst,
two- to six-cell Lithium, five- to 18-cell Ni-
Cd/NiMH
Outputs: Includes 5-volt DC, 3-amp
switching-mode BEC
Price: $79.95
Spectra 4 Update: Hughes RC’s version 2.12
is available free to Spectra 4 owners if they
send the unit both ways for reprogramming.
You can have the update shipped to you for
$10 if you are comfortable with installing the
new chip.
Hughes RC sends thorough instructions
and photographs with version 2.12. Most
modelers can make the change if they are
careful.
Small Band-Saw Tires: By now you might
be deep in the building season and have found
that your trusty little bench-top three-wheel
band saw is sick; the tires (those rubberlike
rings on the wheels) might be shot.
I have been searching for replacements for
a long time, only to learn that no one makes
them for 6-inch-diameter wheels. Then I
discovered Sulphur Grove Tool Company,
which will make custom tires that will bring
your band saw back to life for a reasonable
price.
You can find the store on eBay. When you
get to the main page, look for tires for threewheel
band saws and provide the dimensions
that are requested to order.
Free Canopies: While contemplating an
empty bottle of Irish Mist, a vision came to
me: canopies. What could be simpler? I sliced
off the sides, as shown in the photo, and
trimmed them a bit.
Here’s wishing you a great flying new
year! MA
Sources:
W.S. Deans Co.
(714) 828-6252
www.wsdeans.com
Anderson Power Products
(978) 422-3600
www.andersonpower.com
Peter Forlenza
[email protected]
FMA Direct
(800) 343-2934
www.fmadirect.com
Hughes RC
(800) 786-0802
www.hughesrc.com
Sulphur Grove Tool Company
(800) 657-5064
http://stores.ebay.com/SULPHUR-GROVETOOL
The Battery Clinic
12219 NW 9th Ln.
Newberry FL 32669
[email protected]
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/01
Page Numbers: 104,105,106
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/01
Page Numbers: 104,105,106
104 MODEL AVIATION
ALTHOUGH both
the Deans Ultra
and Anderson
Powerpole are
excellent
connectors, some
people shy away
from the Deans
because of the
perceived difficulty
in soldering. They
can be tricky for
the novice, and you
can easily destroy
the connector if
you are not careful.
I prefer the Deans Ultra because it is a bit more compact than the
Powerpole.
I’ll share the soldering technique I use. Before you start, you
need the proper tools. They are:
• 40-watt soldering iron with 1/4-inch chisel
tip
• Iron holder
• Wet sponge to clean iron
• Helping hands
• Rosin-core solder and solder paste (Do
not use acid-core solder or paste!)
Prep the Deans plug by tinning the
positive and negative terminals on the side
to which you will be soldering. On the
soldering-tab side of the plug, marks
molded into the plastic indicate which of
the two tabs is positive; the other is
negative.
We use the female plug for the battery,
because exposed terminals might be
subjected to accidental contact. The female
lead’s embedded contact points are
relatively safe from foreign conductors that
could cause damage or fire from what a
direct short across the terminals would
create.
For safety’s sake, double-check the lead
wires when connecting a new ESC or
battery. Make sure that red is attaching to
red and black is connecting to black. Let’s
begin.
1. Strip the positive wire 1/8 inch from
the end. Twist the exposed copper strands
with a rolling motion of your thumb and
forefinger so that there are no strays.
2. Tin the wire with a good soldering
iron. I recommend a 40-watt iron with a
1/4-inch chisel tip for good heat transfer.
You should have a wet kitchen sponge and
a wad of steel wool, in a small can, nearby
to frequently clean slag from the tip. Lay
the wire on the side of the iron tip and
touch where the wire touches the iron with
rosin-core solder.
The Battery Clinic Red Scholefield | [email protected]
Also included in this column:
• Throttle lock for electrics
• New FMA Direct brushless
ESCs
• Hughes Spectra 4 update
available
• Refresh your three-wheel
band saw
• Free canopies
Correct Deans Ultra connector soldering technique
Soldering correctly requires the right tools. Paste (or flux) is
used to prevent oxidation and promote the flow of hot solder.
Deans soldering sequence 1-6 outlines the wire and connector preparation. Flattening
the tinned wire significantly strengthens the solder joint.
Deans soldering sequence 7-9 shows how a strong solder joint looks and how to
insulate the exposed terminals.
1 2 3
4
7 8
9
5 6
01sig4.QXD 11/24/08 2:17 PM Page 104
January 2009 105
If soldering to battery leads, do one at a time to avoid the risk
of accidentally shorting the leads.
3. Starting with the positive wire (red), compress the tinned lead
in a small bench vice or with a pair of vise grips. This forms a flat
surface, increasing the surface area of the joint to be soldered.
4. Put a 1/2-inch piece of 3/16-inch-diameter heat shrink on the
wire, and then position the prepared end with “alligator hands”
(helping hands) on the inside surface of the previously tinned
surface of the positive terminal. (Looking at the plug upright, it’s
the plug laying horizontally and is usually marked “+,” except on
some poor-quality imported copies.)
5. Apply the freshly tinned tip of the iron to the junction of the
wire and the terminal for a second or so, until the solder flows and
makes the bond.
6. A correctly soldered joint will have cooled solder that is
smooth and has a semigloss sheen. Tug on the wire to make sure
it’s secure.
7. Once soldered,
slip the heat shrink
over the joint and
shrink it tight with a
heat gun. Complete
the negative
connection in the
same manner.
The negative
connector (the one
running up and
down) is slightly
Some soft-drink bottles can be used to make an airplane canopy. Pinching and then
heating the ends can help them fit a particular application.
FMA Direct offers an optional Quazar
Programming Card for quickly and easily
adjusting the default factory settings.
offset. Position the tinned and flattened wire against the terminal
where there is the most space, and solder. When cool, slide the heat
shrink over the joint and shrink it in place.
8. There you have it: a finished battery pack. Oh, that little hole
in the connector is so that snap-ring pliers can be used to separate
the connectors. A little Vaseline wiped on the pins helps.
Throttle Lock for Electrics: Nothing will ruin your day like a 750-
watt motor unexpectedly coming on at full speed. One of the best
safety ideas I’ve seen was published in the August 2007 R/C Report.
Peter Forlenza wrote:
“The concept is simple, I wanted to use a toggle switch on my
transmitter to enable or disable the throttle stick, to avoid
accidentally causing the electric motor to run.
“The complexity of the programming will depend on your
transmitter and your familiarity with its requirements. Note that you
must have a computer transmitter with a free mix available, and the
ability to assign the mix to the switch required for the throttle lock.
You must also be familiar with setting up a mix on your radio.
During the programming I recommend using a servo connected to
the throttle channel instead of an ESC, to make it easier and safer to
see what’s going on.
“I’m using an Airtronics Infinity 660 and a Futaba 9CAP, and
the only difference is in the mixing points. First the mix should be
throttle to throttle, and set the rate to -100% for up and down stick.
“Next, comes the mixing point, which is set to the fully closed
throttle stick setting. For Airtronics it’s -100%, and for the Futaba
it’s 0% offset. This is usually set by pressing the input key with the
throttle in the fully closed position.
“Make sure the trim is zeroed. With the 9CAP you have to hold
down the Dial key for one second to input the value; boy, did I ever
have to play around to learn that—just try finding it in the manual.
“Now all that’s left is to assign a switch of your choice. I use a
switch on the left with its down position as the throttle lock, and its
up position as the ‘motor enabled’ position.
“You may choose to set it up differently. Now it should be easy
to see the results with the servo on the throttle channel. With the
lock disabled the servo should move normally. Observe the servo
arm location with the throttle stick fully closed. When the lock is
enabled the servo should stay in (or go to) that position, regardless
of throttle stick movement.
“In use I keep the switch in ‘lock’ until I’m ready to hit the
throttle. I also use the same switch to start/stop the flight timer. I
also switch to ‘lock’ the moment I land, reducing the chances of
‘surgical alterations’ of body parts when picking up the airplane. I
hope this works for you and your setup as well.”
Thank you, Gordon Banks of R/C Report, for allowing me to use
this letter.
FMA Direct’s new Quazar line of brushless motor controllers is
available in five sizes: 18A, 30A, 40A, 60A, and 80A. The 18A and
30A are linear BECs, while the 40A, 60A, and 80A are switchmode
BECs for reliable power for up to five servos when a 4S Li-
Poly is used and up to four servos when a 5-6S Li-Poly is used.
FMA Direct’s Quazar 60A is one of five ESCs in the new brushless
controller line. The author tested this one in his Telemaster.
01sig4.QXD 11/24/08 12:53 PM Page 105
The Quazars feature:
• Auto low-voltage protection that works
with Li-Poly, LiFePO4, or Ni-Cd/NiMH
batteries.
• Extreme low-output resistance for high
power and cool operating temperatures.
• Overtemperature protection.
• Lost-signal throttle cutoff.
• Three programmable start modes optimize
for fixed wing vs. helicopter operation
(normal, soft, super-soft).
• User-configurable throttle range.
• Smooth, linear-feel throttle response.
• Separate voltage regulator for
microprocessor to improve noise immunity.
• Supported motor speed of 210,000 rpm
(two poles), 70,000 rpm (six poles), and
35,000 rpm (12 poles).
• An available programming card ($9.95) that
works with any ESC in the Quazar line.
The programmable features (using the
transmitter throttle stick or Quazar
Programming Card) include:
• Brake (on/off)
• Battery type (Lithium or Ni-Cd/NiMH)
• Cutoff mode (normal or soft cutout)
• Cutoff threshold (low, medium, high)
• Cutoff mode (normal or soft cutout)
• Cutoff threshold (low, medium, high)
• Start-up mode (normal, soft, super-soft)
• Timing (low, medium, high)
• Reset to factory defaults
106 MODEL AVIATION
You can cycle through the various
functions with the keys at the bottom of the
programmer. When satisfied, hit the “OK”
button. Each Quazar BEC’s operating manual
is downloadable from the FMA Direct Web
site.
I am flying the 60A Quazar in my
Telemaster Electro with an AXi 2826-12
motor and 4S2P A123 battery, and it is great;
I am experiencing the smoothest throttle
response yet. The 60-amp Quazar’s
specifications are:
Size: 70mm x 31mm x 14mm
Weight: 65 grams
Ratings: 60 amps continuous, 80 amps burst,
two- to six-cell Lithium, five- to 18-cell Ni-
Cd/NiMH
Outputs: Includes 5-volt DC, 3-amp
switching-mode BEC
Price: $79.95
Spectra 4 Update: Hughes RC’s version 2.12
is available free to Spectra 4 owners if they
send the unit both ways for reprogramming.
You can have the update shipped to you for
$10 if you are comfortable with installing the
new chip.
Hughes RC sends thorough instructions
and photographs with version 2.12. Most
modelers can make the change if they are
careful.
Small Band-Saw Tires: By now you might
be deep in the building season and have found
that your trusty little bench-top three-wheel
band saw is sick; the tires (those rubberlike
rings on the wheels) might be shot.
I have been searching for replacements for
a long time, only to learn that no one makes
them for 6-inch-diameter wheels. Then I
discovered Sulphur Grove Tool Company,
which will make custom tires that will bring
your band saw back to life for a reasonable
price.
You can find the store on eBay. When you
get to the main page, look for tires for threewheel
band saws and provide the dimensions
that are requested to order.
Free Canopies: While contemplating an
empty bottle of Irish Mist, a vision came to
me: canopies. What could be simpler? I sliced
off the sides, as shown in the photo, and
trimmed them a bit.
Here’s wishing you a great flying new
year! MA
Sources:
W.S. Deans Co.
(714) 828-6252
www.wsdeans.com
Anderson Power Products
(978) 422-3600
www.andersonpower.com
Peter Forlenza
[email protected]
FMA Direct
(800) 343-2934
www.fmadirect.com
Hughes RC
(800) 786-0802
www.hughesrc.com
Sulphur Grove Tool Company
(800) 657-5064
http://stores.ebay.com/SULPHUR-GROVETOOL
The Battery Clinic
12219 NW 9th Ln.
Newberry FL 32669
[email protected]
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/01
Page Numbers: 104,105,106
104 MODEL AVIATION
ALTHOUGH both
the Deans Ultra
and Anderson
Powerpole are
excellent
connectors, some
people shy away
from the Deans
because of the
perceived difficulty
in soldering. They
can be tricky for
the novice, and you
can easily destroy
the connector if
you are not careful.
I prefer the Deans Ultra because it is a bit more compact than the
Powerpole.
I’ll share the soldering technique I use. Before you start, you
need the proper tools. They are:
• 40-watt soldering iron with 1/4-inch chisel
tip
• Iron holder
• Wet sponge to clean iron
• Helping hands
• Rosin-core solder and solder paste (Do
not use acid-core solder or paste!)
Prep the Deans plug by tinning the
positive and negative terminals on the side
to which you will be soldering. On the
soldering-tab side of the plug, marks
molded into the plastic indicate which of
the two tabs is positive; the other is
negative.
We use the female plug for the battery,
because exposed terminals might be
subjected to accidental contact. The female
lead’s embedded contact points are
relatively safe from foreign conductors that
could cause damage or fire from what a
direct short across the terminals would
create.
For safety’s sake, double-check the lead
wires when connecting a new ESC or
battery. Make sure that red is attaching to
red and black is connecting to black. Let’s
begin.
1. Strip the positive wire 1/8 inch from
the end. Twist the exposed copper strands
with a rolling motion of your thumb and
forefinger so that there are no strays.
2. Tin the wire with a good soldering
iron. I recommend a 40-watt iron with a
1/4-inch chisel tip for good heat transfer.
You should have a wet kitchen sponge and
a wad of steel wool, in a small can, nearby
to frequently clean slag from the tip. Lay
the wire on the side of the iron tip and
touch where the wire touches the iron with
rosin-core solder.
The Battery Clinic Red Scholefield | [email protected]
Also included in this column:
• Throttle lock for electrics
• New FMA Direct brushless
ESCs
• Hughes Spectra 4 update
available
• Refresh your three-wheel
band saw
• Free canopies
Correct Deans Ultra connector soldering technique
Soldering correctly requires the right tools. Paste (or flux) is
used to prevent oxidation and promote the flow of hot solder.
Deans soldering sequence 1-6 outlines the wire and connector preparation. Flattening
the tinned wire significantly strengthens the solder joint.
Deans soldering sequence 7-9 shows how a strong solder joint looks and how to
insulate the exposed terminals.
1 2 3
4
7 8
9
5 6
01sig4.QXD 11/24/08 2:17 PM Page 104
January 2009 105
If soldering to battery leads, do one at a time to avoid the risk
of accidentally shorting the leads.
3. Starting with the positive wire (red), compress the tinned lead
in a small bench vice or with a pair of vise grips. This forms a flat
surface, increasing the surface area of the joint to be soldered.
4. Put a 1/2-inch piece of 3/16-inch-diameter heat shrink on the
wire, and then position the prepared end with “alligator hands”
(helping hands) on the inside surface of the previously tinned
surface of the positive terminal. (Looking at the plug upright, it’s
the plug laying horizontally and is usually marked “+,” except on
some poor-quality imported copies.)
5. Apply the freshly tinned tip of the iron to the junction of the
wire and the terminal for a second or so, until the solder flows and
makes the bond.
6. A correctly soldered joint will have cooled solder that is
smooth and has a semigloss sheen. Tug on the wire to make sure
it’s secure.
7. Once soldered,
slip the heat shrink
over the joint and
shrink it tight with a
heat gun. Complete
the negative
connection in the
same manner.
The negative
connector (the one
running up and
down) is slightly
Some soft-drink bottles can be used to make an airplane canopy. Pinching and then
heating the ends can help them fit a particular application.
FMA Direct offers an optional Quazar
Programming Card for quickly and easily
adjusting the default factory settings.
offset. Position the tinned and flattened wire against the terminal
where there is the most space, and solder. When cool, slide the heat
shrink over the joint and shrink it in place.
8. There you have it: a finished battery pack. Oh, that little hole
in the connector is so that snap-ring pliers can be used to separate
the connectors. A little Vaseline wiped on the pins helps.
Throttle Lock for Electrics: Nothing will ruin your day like a 750-
watt motor unexpectedly coming on at full speed. One of the best
safety ideas I’ve seen was published in the August 2007 R/C Report.
Peter Forlenza wrote:
“The concept is simple, I wanted to use a toggle switch on my
transmitter to enable or disable the throttle stick, to avoid
accidentally causing the electric motor to run.
“The complexity of the programming will depend on your
transmitter and your familiarity with its requirements. Note that you
must have a computer transmitter with a free mix available, and the
ability to assign the mix to the switch required for the throttle lock.
You must also be familiar with setting up a mix on your radio.
During the programming I recommend using a servo connected to
the throttle channel instead of an ESC, to make it easier and safer to
see what’s going on.
“I’m using an Airtronics Infinity 660 and a Futaba 9CAP, and
the only difference is in the mixing points. First the mix should be
throttle to throttle, and set the rate to -100% for up and down stick.
“Next, comes the mixing point, which is set to the fully closed
throttle stick setting. For Airtronics it’s -100%, and for the Futaba
it’s 0% offset. This is usually set by pressing the input key with the
throttle in the fully closed position.
“Make sure the trim is zeroed. With the 9CAP you have to hold
down the Dial key for one second to input the value; boy, did I ever
have to play around to learn that—just try finding it in the manual.
“Now all that’s left is to assign a switch of your choice. I use a
switch on the left with its down position as the throttle lock, and its
up position as the ‘motor enabled’ position.
“You may choose to set it up differently. Now it should be easy
to see the results with the servo on the throttle channel. With the
lock disabled the servo should move normally. Observe the servo
arm location with the throttle stick fully closed. When the lock is
enabled the servo should stay in (or go to) that position, regardless
of throttle stick movement.
“In use I keep the switch in ‘lock’ until I’m ready to hit the
throttle. I also use the same switch to start/stop the flight timer. I
also switch to ‘lock’ the moment I land, reducing the chances of
‘surgical alterations’ of body parts when picking up the airplane. I
hope this works for you and your setup as well.”
Thank you, Gordon Banks of R/C Report, for allowing me to use
this letter.
FMA Direct’s new Quazar line of brushless motor controllers is
available in five sizes: 18A, 30A, 40A, 60A, and 80A. The 18A and
30A are linear BECs, while the 40A, 60A, and 80A are switchmode
BECs for reliable power for up to five servos when a 4S Li-
Poly is used and up to four servos when a 5-6S Li-Poly is used.
FMA Direct’s Quazar 60A is one of five ESCs in the new brushless
controller line. The author tested this one in his Telemaster.
01sig4.QXD 11/24/08 12:53 PM Page 105
The Quazars feature:
• Auto low-voltage protection that works
with Li-Poly, LiFePO4, or Ni-Cd/NiMH
batteries.
• Extreme low-output resistance for high
power and cool operating temperatures.
• Overtemperature protection.
• Lost-signal throttle cutoff.
• Three programmable start modes optimize
for fixed wing vs. helicopter operation
(normal, soft, super-soft).
• User-configurable throttle range.
• Smooth, linear-feel throttle response.
• Separate voltage regulator for
microprocessor to improve noise immunity.
• Supported motor speed of 210,000 rpm
(two poles), 70,000 rpm (six poles), and
35,000 rpm (12 poles).
• An available programming card ($9.95) that
works with any ESC in the Quazar line.
The programmable features (using the
transmitter throttle stick or Quazar
Programming Card) include:
• Brake (on/off)
• Battery type (Lithium or Ni-Cd/NiMH)
• Cutoff mode (normal or soft cutout)
• Cutoff threshold (low, medium, high)
• Cutoff mode (normal or soft cutout)
• Cutoff threshold (low, medium, high)
• Start-up mode (normal, soft, super-soft)
• Timing (low, medium, high)
• Reset to factory defaults
106 MODEL AVIATION
You can cycle through the various
functions with the keys at the bottom of the
programmer. When satisfied, hit the “OK”
button. Each Quazar BEC’s operating manual
is downloadable from the FMA Direct Web
site.
I am flying the 60A Quazar in my
Telemaster Electro with an AXi 2826-12
motor and 4S2P A123 battery, and it is great;
I am experiencing the smoothest throttle
response yet. The 60-amp Quazar’s
specifications are:
Size: 70mm x 31mm x 14mm
Weight: 65 grams
Ratings: 60 amps continuous, 80 amps burst,
two- to six-cell Lithium, five- to 18-cell Ni-
Cd/NiMH
Outputs: Includes 5-volt DC, 3-amp
switching-mode BEC
Price: $79.95
Spectra 4 Update: Hughes RC’s version 2.12
is available free to Spectra 4 owners if they
send the unit both ways for reprogramming.
You can have the update shipped to you for
$10 if you are comfortable with installing the
new chip.
Hughes RC sends thorough instructions
and photographs with version 2.12. Most
modelers can make the change if they are
careful.
Small Band-Saw Tires: By now you might
be deep in the building season and have found
that your trusty little bench-top three-wheel
band saw is sick; the tires (those rubberlike
rings on the wheels) might be shot.
I have been searching for replacements for
a long time, only to learn that no one makes
them for 6-inch-diameter wheels. Then I
discovered Sulphur Grove Tool Company,
which will make custom tires that will bring
your band saw back to life for a reasonable
price.
You can find the store on eBay. When you
get to the main page, look for tires for threewheel
band saws and provide the dimensions
that are requested to order.
Free Canopies: While contemplating an
empty bottle of Irish Mist, a vision came to
me: canopies. What could be simpler? I sliced
off the sides, as shown in the photo, and
trimmed them a bit.
Here’s wishing you a great flying new
year! MA
Sources:
W.S. Deans Co.
(714) 828-6252
www.wsdeans.com
Anderson Power Products
(978) 422-3600
www.andersonpower.com
Peter Forlenza
[email protected]
FMA Direct
(800) 343-2934
www.fmadirect.com
Hughes RC
(800) 786-0802
www.hughesrc.com
Sulphur Grove Tool Company
(800) 657-5064
http://stores.ebay.com/SULPHUR-GROVETOOL
The Battery Clinic
12219 NW 9th Ln.
Newberry FL 32669
[email protected]