THE BLIND NUT is used excessively in
the model industry. It is made from soft
metal with sometimes less than perfect
threads, is easily cross-threaded, and is
easy to install; that is, most of the time.
Blind nuts are plentiful in ARFs and in
their hardware packs for holding on
hatches, canopies, wing hold-downs,
landing gear, and engine mounts. They
generally come preinstalled for everything
but the engine mounts, which need to have
specific dimensions for the particular size
engine you intend to install.
1
2
Little is required to make this
tool: threaded rod, thin cable,
and soldering skills. If you don’t have
them, try J.B. Weld and some
patience to let it cure overnight. This
device is simple to make and easy to
use, eliminating the frustration of
installing blind nuts in inaccessible
places.
Once the mounting hole is
drilled to the proper size, install
the threaded rod through it. If the
hole is drilled too small, the rod will
not fit through it.
While assembling an ARF I ran into an
issue; the blind nuts could not be installed
on the backside of the firewall. It was
completely inaccessible, with no way to
fit the blind nut in the hole, hold it, and
start threading the bolt in place.
Maybe you have experienced this and
found it frustrating. How could a
manufacturer let this happen? Well, it did
in this case.
After giving it considerable thought, I
came up with this neat, simple tool that
consists of a short piece of soft steel
threaded rod and a length of thin steel
cable. Solder the cable to the rod using
acid-core solder, and the tool is complete.
If your soldering skills are not great, you
can put a small dab of J.B. Weld on the
end of the threaded rod, push the cable
into it, and let it set overnight.
3
4
5
Pull the tool through the hole
and install a blind nut on the
threaded rod with several turns. Be
sure not to let the opposite end of the
cable come through with it; put a
clamp on it so it won’t pull through
the hole.
Grasp the cable and pull the
threaded rod through the hole
with the blind nut against the backside
of the firewall. Install a washer and a
nut on the threaded rod, and tighten
them with your fingers.
Use a wrench to tighten the nut,
drawing the blind nut in place
until it is firmly seated. If possible,
apply glue to the blind nut to keep it
in place when installing the bolt.
3
4
5
You will need a washer and a hex nut
the size of the thread you are using to pull
the blind nut into place. Threaded rod with
different thread sizes can be purchased in
12-inch lengths at Ace Hardware and
builder supply stores.
I used Sullivan Products cable; it was
.056 inch in diameter and brass plated for
easy soldering. You may find it in hobby
shops and other places. Finding metric
threaded rod is difficult, so I suggest you
stick to US standard thread with blind nuts
and bolts, making them easier to obtain.
As do most tools, the Blind Nut Installer
will come in handy when needed. MA
Jerry Smith
[email protected]
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/03
Page Numbers: 66,67
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/03
Page Numbers: 66,67
THE BLIND NUT is used excessively in
the model industry. It is made from soft
metal with sometimes less than perfect
threads, is easily cross-threaded, and is
easy to install; that is, most of the time.
Blind nuts are plentiful in ARFs and in
their hardware packs for holding on
hatches, canopies, wing hold-downs,
landing gear, and engine mounts. They
generally come preinstalled for everything
but the engine mounts, which need to have
specific dimensions for the particular size
engine you intend to install.
1
2
Little is required to make this
tool: threaded rod, thin cable,
and soldering skills. If you don’t have
them, try J.B. Weld and some
patience to let it cure overnight. This
device is simple to make and easy to
use, eliminating the frustration of
installing blind nuts in inaccessible
places.
Once the mounting hole is
drilled to the proper size, install
the threaded rod through it. If the
hole is drilled too small, the rod will
not fit through it.
While assembling an ARF I ran into an
issue; the blind nuts could not be installed
on the backside of the firewall. It was
completely inaccessible, with no way to
fit the blind nut in the hole, hold it, and
start threading the bolt in place.
Maybe you have experienced this and
found it frustrating. How could a
manufacturer let this happen? Well, it did
in this case.
After giving it considerable thought, I
came up with this neat, simple tool that
consists of a short piece of soft steel
threaded rod and a length of thin steel
cable. Solder the cable to the rod using
acid-core solder, and the tool is complete.
If your soldering skills are not great, you
can put a small dab of J.B. Weld on the
end of the threaded rod, push the cable
into it, and let it set overnight.
3
4
5
Pull the tool through the hole
and install a blind nut on the
threaded rod with several turns. Be
sure not to let the opposite end of the
cable come through with it; put a
clamp on it so it won’t pull through
the hole.
Grasp the cable and pull the
threaded rod through the hole
with the blind nut against the backside
of the firewall. Install a washer and a
nut on the threaded rod, and tighten
them with your fingers.
Use a wrench to tighten the nut,
drawing the blind nut in place
until it is firmly seated. If possible,
apply glue to the blind nut to keep it
in place when installing the bolt.
3
4
5
You will need a washer and a hex nut
the size of the thread you are using to pull
the blind nut into place. Threaded rod with
different thread sizes can be purchased in
12-inch lengths at Ace Hardware and
builder supply stores.
I used Sullivan Products cable; it was
.056 inch in diameter and brass plated for
easy soldering. You may find it in hobby
shops and other places. Finding metric
threaded rod is difficult, so I suggest you
stick to US standard thread with blind nuts
and bolts, making them easier to obtain.
As do most tools, the Blind Nut Installer
will come in handy when needed. MA
Jerry Smith
[email protected]