44 MODEL AVIATION
Building
Speed
Efficiency
With
and
by Dave Garwood
THERE ARE TIMES when you don’t care how long it takes to
build a model, because sometimes the journey is more important
than the destination. Other times it becomes a priority to complete
the project as quickly and efficiently as possible. To that end,
following is a compilation of tips and methods for organizing your
shop and planning your activities to finish a building project
rapidly and with minimum wasted time and effort.
The “Dual Zero” project turned my attention to efficient
construction methods. Endeavoring to produce two pairs of Slope
sailplanes with matched flight characteristics, Joe Chovan and I
agreed to each build a pair of Slope Scale models. He constructed
a pair of Lockheed F-80 Shooting Stars and I built a pair of
Mitsubishi A6M Zeros.
I struggled to summon all the tips, tricks, and techniques I
knew to complete this project as rapidly as possible while
maintaining my highest possible level of craftsmanship.
Furthermore, I asked my flying and building buddies to add to the
list, and they responded by generously sharing their experience.
1) Thoroughly read the kit instructions. This is one of the
easiest ways to get rolling quickly, yet some of us skip this step,
thinking perhaps we’ll save time if we dive right in. Don’t do that!
The kit instructions add the designer’s advice and counsel to
your own knowledge and experience. His or her goals are aligned
with yours: to complete the project with minimum expenditure of
time and materials and with the best possible result.
Well-prepared kit instructions will give you an overall idea of
how the model goes together and the order of battle for
component construction and assembly. Thinking through the
project, you’ll find opportunities for parallel operations, such as
subassemblies you can work on while adhesives cure on other
components, and these can cut days off of the overall building
time.
Carefully review the “materials needed” list and determine if
you have all the necessary supplies in stock. If you do not, make a
checklist and go to the hobby store or mail-order the items you’ll
need. If you see unfamiliar materials or operations, this is the time
to get help from the kit maker or other sources.
2) Review the tools you’ll need. Having good tools and
maintaining them undoubtedly makes any construction project go
smoother.
Did you know that a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one?
The reason is that a sharp knife requires less force and is less
likely to slip. Buy single-edge razor blades and hobby-knife
blades in bulk and replace them frequently. Dispose of them
safely by taping over the cutting edge and points as soon as they
are worn.
Make long, flat sanding blocks for several grades of sandpaper.
Replace the sandpaper as soon as you notice that it’s worn.
Sandpaper is one of our more precise cutting and shaping tools,
and it works so much better when it’s new and sharp.
Be sure you have long enough straightedges. I often use 18-
inch and 1-meter aluminum ones. Fix them so they don’t slip
when in use by applying thin cork on the back or taping them
down before you run a cutting tool along the edge.
A heat gun is highly useful—not only for its common use of
shrinking covering, but to get epoxy to flow freely and to wet out
fiberglass. A razor saw comes in really handy when a hacksaw
blade is too thick and cutting with a blade would be too crude.
Use power tools when possible. Rough-sand large balsa,
hardwood, and plywood pieces using a belt or a disc sander. Use a
power rotary tool to cut and sand smaller parts quickly. I get a
great deal of use from a bench-top jigsaw.
Will you need any new tools for your next project? Is it time
for a new soldering-gun tip? Do you have the drill sizes and tap
sizes you’ll need?
How about a second pair of scissors? One for cutting
sandpaper and the other rough stuff, and one for heat-shrink
covering and other delicate work.
Is this the time to replace those worn or broken drill bits or
This is why we hustle in the shop. Dave flies his Vortech Models Fw 190D at Lake Ontario near Syracuse NY. Terry Dwyer photo.
Sheeted wings and primed fuselages for the Zeros. It doesn’t
take twice the time to build two models at the same time.
Sometimes you waste a whole paper towel on a small mess. Stack
four paper towels, make 15 cuts, and you’ll have 64 small wipes.
Soft board behind bench, made from material that will accept
pins, allows you to display plans and drawings. It is also a handy
place to keep notes and checklists.
Use a small
bottle to hold
a supply of
carpenter’s
glue. It will
be easier to
handle and
allow more
precise
application.
Constructing a
matching pair of
Slope Scale Zeros
turned Dave’s
attention to speedy
and efficient
building. He called it
the “Dual Zero”
project.
46 MODEL AVIATION
You can’t have enough zip-close bags and snap-lid plastic
containers in which to keep your small parts.
Tool racks should be within easy reach over the bench. It’s the
quickest way to find a utensil when you need it.
Sandbags are the most useful shop accessories you never knew
you needed. They are great for holding irregular-shaped parts.
Make a bunch of bags!
Stand-up bench with shelves underneath and to the side makes a
good workstation. Put tools and small parts on backboard.
Long pine sanding blocks are fantastic for removing stock and
shaping wood quickly and safely. Attach sandpaper with
thumbtacks and discard it when it dulls.
Sit-down bench with pin board behind. Two sets of fluorescent
lights have clamp-on spotlights for more light when and where
needed.
stock up on razor blades? Would a couple more small clamps
speed your work?
It’s better to get the tools you’ll use earlier in the project than
later.
3) Gather building supplies and materials. After a project is
underway is no time to run out of paper towels, waxed paper,
epoxy mixing cups, stir sticks, or masking tape; it disturbs your
flow. Stock up on these items before you start.
Do you have the adhesives you’ll need to finish the project?
Lay in a supply of epoxy and microballons, fast and slow
cyanoacrylate glue, Titebond or your favorite wood glue, ProBond
or another specialty adhesive for EPP-foam work, and Shoe Goo
for shock-mounting a servo tray into a fiberglass fuselage.
Make sure you have the solvents you’ll need: fingernail-polish
remover or other cyanoacrylate softener, alcohol for epoxy
cleanup, and Ironex, acetone, or Goo Gone to clean your scissors
and covering iron.
How about replacing those bent and rusty T-pins and stocking
November 2004 47
Four-inch-wide shelf running length of bench keeps tools and
supplies in easy reach. Main bench clears quickly with dust
brush.
Metal straightedges, taped in place, guide cuts using singleedge
razor blades. Discard blades safely the moment they show
signs of dulling.
The good thing about a wall-mount bench is that it’s easy to
mount wiggle-free. The bad thing is large items, such as an
assembled Vortech Models Fw 190D, would fit better on a
freestanding bench.
several sizes of rubber bands and suitable weights of fiberglass
cloth? Will you need a can of expanding foam to fill a void or
stiffen a fuselage?
4) Is this the time for shop improvements? It seems as though
you can never have too much horizontal work space—especially
since with parallel operations, some work dries or cures while
other building commences.
Would two benches improve your productivity? If so, think
about having two bench heights: one a standing and one a sitting
work area. Some tasks go much easier with one or the other. It’s
easier to install a wiggle-free workbench if it’s fixed to a wall, but
a freestanding bench allows you to walk around and get at all
sides of your work, and it allows you to handle larger pieces, such
as a big model with the wing mounted.
Would an extra set of shelves help you stay organized? One of
my seemingly unreachable goals is to get everything off of the
floor—to really clean up the shop—and every new set of shelves I
install gets filled rapidly. Steel shop shelving is cheap, customsized
shelves make the maximum use of available wall space, and
some things (such as finished wings or fuselages) deserve special
storage space. I’ve never been sorry about spending money or
time adding shelf space.
How’s your shop lighting? Maybe another fluorescent fixture
over the workbench would substantially increase your shadowfree
lighting. A portable, clamp-on reflector light provides
brighter task lighting when and where it’s needed. Both are
inexpensive.
5) Check to see if you have all small parts you’ll need in stock.
Will you need wire, brass tubing, clevises, servo arms, or
pushrods? How about nuts, bolts, screws, or washers? Do you
have a receiver for this model? How about the servos, switch, and
battery pack you need? It’s often the small stuff that holds you up
when a project is underway.
6) Follow logical procedures. Clear off that bench! Before you
start your project, clean up the workbench and put everything—
tools, glue, parts, etc.—away so you can find the work surface
when you need it. Get in the habit of putting tools away during
building; they’re easier to find in a regular storage place than
under piles on a messy bench.
Plan to do your dust-producing tasks together and separate
from the tasks that are sensitive to airborne dust. Sanding wing
LEs creates plenty of sawdust, and you don’t want to apply paint
or covering with airborne sawdust settling.
Measure carefully before cutting and heavy sanding. Making
templates often increases your accuracy in cutting parts and saves
time in making multiple identical parts. Measure in millimeters—
not in inch fractions. This enables you to obtain more precise and
more easily remembered measurements, and it simplifies
calculating ratios and fractions of measurements.
Stack identical parts in manageable bundles when cutting and
sanding outline shapes. Keep them together with tape or rubber
bands. Make all similar parts before going to the next step.
Store small parts such as screws, clevises, and control horns
together in small containers for each model. I use film cans,
snap-lid food containers, and zip-close plastic bags for this, and I
often write a label for each on white vinyl tape. Small containers
help you keep inventory and stay organized if you temporarily
put an airplane away in its box while you work on another
building or repair project.
7) Prepare your finishing supplies and materials. Do you
have your final color scheme in mind or your scale
documentation in hand? If so, you can order your decals or cutvinyl
markings early in the project.
Do you have enough iron-on covering, fiberglass, filler
material, etc. to finish without running out to the store? How
about primer paint, masking tape, final paint colors, paint
thinner, Testors Dullcote spray, and a couple of tack cloths?
8) Keep safety in mind. Shop safety is important and deserves
its own article, but briefly stated, protect your eyes, protect your
lungs, and protect your hands and other body parts.
Make sure you wear eye protection for any cutting or grinding
operation. Wear a dust mask when sanding. Make sure you have
adequate ventilation or wear a suitable mask or respirator when
using any paint, adhesive, or solvent. Cut in such a way that a
slipping knife or razor blade will cause no harm. Be mindful of
solder drips, splatters, and hot parts when soldering.
9) Get help if needed. If you are faced with a new procedure
or an unfamiliar adhesive, ask about it at your local hobby shop
Photos by the author except as noted
or where you buy kits and supplies. If you
belong to a club, many times your fellow
members will be helpful. Post a question
on an Internet modeling exchange. Some
builders enjoy working in a group, and
that’s a great way to learn new techniques.
10) Make building an enjoyable time.
Music sets a mood, so make provisions for
tunes in your shop. A radio, a tape player,
or a CD player will greatly improve the
atmosphere. I like big band music when
I’m working on World War II aircraft.
Be sure to dress for the occasion; wear
shop clothes. Who needs another
cyanoacrylate blob on a good T-shirt?
Heat or cool the work area so you’re
working in a comfortable temperature.
Basement shops often benefit from a
dehumidifier.
Probably the biggest payoff from time
invested comes from your reading and
understanding the kit instructions before
you start and thinking through the
procedures.
Make note especially of any operations
that are unclear and any supplies,
materials, and tools that would be helpful
to have, and get these squared away before
you start. Work safely and have fun. The
journey is as important as the destination,
no matter how fast you’re traveling.
Thanks to the guys who have increased
my model-building knowledge, skill, and
ability: Robert Cavazos, Joe Chovan, Terry
Dwyer, Jim Harrigan, Brian Laird, Mike
Lee, Carl Maas, Bob Powers, Pete Young,
and my dad David E. Garwood. MA
Dave Garwood
5 Birch Ln.
Scotia NY 12302
[email protected]
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/11
Page Numbers: 44,45,46,47,48
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/11
Page Numbers: 44,45,46,47,48
44 MODEL AVIATION
Building
Speed
Efficiency
With
and
by Dave Garwood
THERE ARE TIMES when you don’t care how long it takes to
build a model, because sometimes the journey is more important
than the destination. Other times it becomes a priority to complete
the project as quickly and efficiently as possible. To that end,
following is a compilation of tips and methods for organizing your
shop and planning your activities to finish a building project
rapidly and with minimum wasted time and effort.
The “Dual Zero” project turned my attention to efficient
construction methods. Endeavoring to produce two pairs of Slope
sailplanes with matched flight characteristics, Joe Chovan and I
agreed to each build a pair of Slope Scale models. He constructed
a pair of Lockheed F-80 Shooting Stars and I built a pair of
Mitsubishi A6M Zeros.
I struggled to summon all the tips, tricks, and techniques I
knew to complete this project as rapidly as possible while
maintaining my highest possible level of craftsmanship.
Furthermore, I asked my flying and building buddies to add to the
list, and they responded by generously sharing their experience.
1) Thoroughly read the kit instructions. This is one of the
easiest ways to get rolling quickly, yet some of us skip this step,
thinking perhaps we’ll save time if we dive right in. Don’t do that!
The kit instructions add the designer’s advice and counsel to
your own knowledge and experience. His or her goals are aligned
with yours: to complete the project with minimum expenditure of
time and materials and with the best possible result.
Well-prepared kit instructions will give you an overall idea of
how the model goes together and the order of battle for
component construction and assembly. Thinking through the
project, you’ll find opportunities for parallel operations, such as
subassemblies you can work on while adhesives cure on other
components, and these can cut days off of the overall building
time.
Carefully review the “materials needed” list and determine if
you have all the necessary supplies in stock. If you do not, make a
checklist and go to the hobby store or mail-order the items you’ll
need. If you see unfamiliar materials or operations, this is the time
to get help from the kit maker or other sources.
2) Review the tools you’ll need. Having good tools and
maintaining them undoubtedly makes any construction project go
smoother.
Did you know that a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one?
The reason is that a sharp knife requires less force and is less
likely to slip. Buy single-edge razor blades and hobby-knife
blades in bulk and replace them frequently. Dispose of them
safely by taping over the cutting edge and points as soon as they
are worn.
Make long, flat sanding blocks for several grades of sandpaper.
Replace the sandpaper as soon as you notice that it’s worn.
Sandpaper is one of our more precise cutting and shaping tools,
and it works so much better when it’s new and sharp.
Be sure you have long enough straightedges. I often use 18-
inch and 1-meter aluminum ones. Fix them so they don’t slip
when in use by applying thin cork on the back or taping them
down before you run a cutting tool along the edge.
A heat gun is highly useful—not only for its common use of
shrinking covering, but to get epoxy to flow freely and to wet out
fiberglass. A razor saw comes in really handy when a hacksaw
blade is too thick and cutting with a blade would be too crude.
Use power tools when possible. Rough-sand large balsa,
hardwood, and plywood pieces using a belt or a disc sander. Use a
power rotary tool to cut and sand smaller parts quickly. I get a
great deal of use from a bench-top jigsaw.
Will you need any new tools for your next project? Is it time
for a new soldering-gun tip? Do you have the drill sizes and tap
sizes you’ll need?
How about a second pair of scissors? One for cutting
sandpaper and the other rough stuff, and one for heat-shrink
covering and other delicate work.
Is this the time to replace those worn or broken drill bits or
This is why we hustle in the shop. Dave flies his Vortech Models Fw 190D at Lake Ontario near Syracuse NY. Terry Dwyer photo.
Sheeted wings and primed fuselages for the Zeros. It doesn’t
take twice the time to build two models at the same time.
Sometimes you waste a whole paper towel on a small mess. Stack
four paper towels, make 15 cuts, and you’ll have 64 small wipes.
Soft board behind bench, made from material that will accept
pins, allows you to display plans and drawings. It is also a handy
place to keep notes and checklists.
Use a small
bottle to hold
a supply of
carpenter’s
glue. It will
be easier to
handle and
allow more
precise
application.
Constructing a
matching pair of
Slope Scale Zeros
turned Dave’s
attention to speedy
and efficient
building. He called it
the “Dual Zero”
project.
46 MODEL AVIATION
You can’t have enough zip-close bags and snap-lid plastic
containers in which to keep your small parts.
Tool racks should be within easy reach over the bench. It’s the
quickest way to find a utensil when you need it.
Sandbags are the most useful shop accessories you never knew
you needed. They are great for holding irregular-shaped parts.
Make a bunch of bags!
Stand-up bench with shelves underneath and to the side makes a
good workstation. Put tools and small parts on backboard.
Long pine sanding blocks are fantastic for removing stock and
shaping wood quickly and safely. Attach sandpaper with
thumbtacks and discard it when it dulls.
Sit-down bench with pin board behind. Two sets of fluorescent
lights have clamp-on spotlights for more light when and where
needed.
stock up on razor blades? Would a couple more small clamps
speed your work?
It’s better to get the tools you’ll use earlier in the project than
later.
3) Gather building supplies and materials. After a project is
underway is no time to run out of paper towels, waxed paper,
epoxy mixing cups, stir sticks, or masking tape; it disturbs your
flow. Stock up on these items before you start.
Do you have the adhesives you’ll need to finish the project?
Lay in a supply of epoxy and microballons, fast and slow
cyanoacrylate glue, Titebond or your favorite wood glue, ProBond
or another specialty adhesive for EPP-foam work, and Shoe Goo
for shock-mounting a servo tray into a fiberglass fuselage.
Make sure you have the solvents you’ll need: fingernail-polish
remover or other cyanoacrylate softener, alcohol for epoxy
cleanup, and Ironex, acetone, or Goo Gone to clean your scissors
and covering iron.
How about replacing those bent and rusty T-pins and stocking
November 2004 47
Four-inch-wide shelf running length of bench keeps tools and
supplies in easy reach. Main bench clears quickly with dust
brush.
Metal straightedges, taped in place, guide cuts using singleedge
razor blades. Discard blades safely the moment they show
signs of dulling.
The good thing about a wall-mount bench is that it’s easy to
mount wiggle-free. The bad thing is large items, such as an
assembled Vortech Models Fw 190D, would fit better on a
freestanding bench.
several sizes of rubber bands and suitable weights of fiberglass
cloth? Will you need a can of expanding foam to fill a void or
stiffen a fuselage?
4) Is this the time for shop improvements? It seems as though
you can never have too much horizontal work space—especially
since with parallel operations, some work dries or cures while
other building commences.
Would two benches improve your productivity? If so, think
about having two bench heights: one a standing and one a sitting
work area. Some tasks go much easier with one or the other. It’s
easier to install a wiggle-free workbench if it’s fixed to a wall, but
a freestanding bench allows you to walk around and get at all
sides of your work, and it allows you to handle larger pieces, such
as a big model with the wing mounted.
Would an extra set of shelves help you stay organized? One of
my seemingly unreachable goals is to get everything off of the
floor—to really clean up the shop—and every new set of shelves I
install gets filled rapidly. Steel shop shelving is cheap, customsized
shelves make the maximum use of available wall space, and
some things (such as finished wings or fuselages) deserve special
storage space. I’ve never been sorry about spending money or
time adding shelf space.
How’s your shop lighting? Maybe another fluorescent fixture
over the workbench would substantially increase your shadowfree
lighting. A portable, clamp-on reflector light provides
brighter task lighting when and where it’s needed. Both are
inexpensive.
5) Check to see if you have all small parts you’ll need in stock.
Will you need wire, brass tubing, clevises, servo arms, or
pushrods? How about nuts, bolts, screws, or washers? Do you
have a receiver for this model? How about the servos, switch, and
battery pack you need? It’s often the small stuff that holds you up
when a project is underway.
6) Follow logical procedures. Clear off that bench! Before you
start your project, clean up the workbench and put everything—
tools, glue, parts, etc.—away so you can find the work surface
when you need it. Get in the habit of putting tools away during
building; they’re easier to find in a regular storage place than
under piles on a messy bench.
Plan to do your dust-producing tasks together and separate
from the tasks that are sensitive to airborne dust. Sanding wing
LEs creates plenty of sawdust, and you don’t want to apply paint
or covering with airborne sawdust settling.
Measure carefully before cutting and heavy sanding. Making
templates often increases your accuracy in cutting parts and saves
time in making multiple identical parts. Measure in millimeters—
not in inch fractions. This enables you to obtain more precise and
more easily remembered measurements, and it simplifies
calculating ratios and fractions of measurements.
Stack identical parts in manageable bundles when cutting and
sanding outline shapes. Keep them together with tape or rubber
bands. Make all similar parts before going to the next step.
Store small parts such as screws, clevises, and control horns
together in small containers for each model. I use film cans,
snap-lid food containers, and zip-close plastic bags for this, and I
often write a label for each on white vinyl tape. Small containers
help you keep inventory and stay organized if you temporarily
put an airplane away in its box while you work on another
building or repair project.
7) Prepare your finishing supplies and materials. Do you
have your final color scheme in mind or your scale
documentation in hand? If so, you can order your decals or cutvinyl
markings early in the project.
Do you have enough iron-on covering, fiberglass, filler
material, etc. to finish without running out to the store? How
about primer paint, masking tape, final paint colors, paint
thinner, Testors Dullcote spray, and a couple of tack cloths?
8) Keep safety in mind. Shop safety is important and deserves
its own article, but briefly stated, protect your eyes, protect your
lungs, and protect your hands and other body parts.
Make sure you wear eye protection for any cutting or grinding
operation. Wear a dust mask when sanding. Make sure you have
adequate ventilation or wear a suitable mask or respirator when
using any paint, adhesive, or solvent. Cut in such a way that a
slipping knife or razor blade will cause no harm. Be mindful of
solder drips, splatters, and hot parts when soldering.
9) Get help if needed. If you are faced with a new procedure
or an unfamiliar adhesive, ask about it at your local hobby shop
Photos by the author except as noted
or where you buy kits and supplies. If you
belong to a club, many times your fellow
members will be helpful. Post a question
on an Internet modeling exchange. Some
builders enjoy working in a group, and
that’s a great way to learn new techniques.
10) Make building an enjoyable time.
Music sets a mood, so make provisions for
tunes in your shop. A radio, a tape player,
or a CD player will greatly improve the
atmosphere. I like big band music when
I’m working on World War II aircraft.
Be sure to dress for the occasion; wear
shop clothes. Who needs another
cyanoacrylate blob on a good T-shirt?
Heat or cool the work area so you’re
working in a comfortable temperature.
Basement shops often benefit from a
dehumidifier.
Probably the biggest payoff from time
invested comes from your reading and
understanding the kit instructions before
you start and thinking through the
procedures.
Make note especially of any operations
that are unclear and any supplies,
materials, and tools that would be helpful
to have, and get these squared away before
you start. Work safely and have fun. The
journey is as important as the destination,
no matter how fast you’re traveling.
Thanks to the guys who have increased
my model-building knowledge, skill, and
ability: Robert Cavazos, Joe Chovan, Terry
Dwyer, Jim Harrigan, Brian Laird, Mike
Lee, Carl Maas, Bob Powers, Pete Young,
and my dad David E. Garwood. MA
Dave Garwood
5 Birch Ln.
Scotia NY 12302
[email protected]
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/11
Page Numbers: 44,45,46,47,48
44 MODEL AVIATION
Building
Speed
Efficiency
With
and
by Dave Garwood
THERE ARE TIMES when you don’t care how long it takes to
build a model, because sometimes the journey is more important
than the destination. Other times it becomes a priority to complete
the project as quickly and efficiently as possible. To that end,
following is a compilation of tips and methods for organizing your
shop and planning your activities to finish a building project
rapidly and with minimum wasted time and effort.
The “Dual Zero” project turned my attention to efficient
construction methods. Endeavoring to produce two pairs of Slope
sailplanes with matched flight characteristics, Joe Chovan and I
agreed to each build a pair of Slope Scale models. He constructed
a pair of Lockheed F-80 Shooting Stars and I built a pair of
Mitsubishi A6M Zeros.
I struggled to summon all the tips, tricks, and techniques I
knew to complete this project as rapidly as possible while
maintaining my highest possible level of craftsmanship.
Furthermore, I asked my flying and building buddies to add to the
list, and they responded by generously sharing their experience.
1) Thoroughly read the kit instructions. This is one of the
easiest ways to get rolling quickly, yet some of us skip this step,
thinking perhaps we’ll save time if we dive right in. Don’t do that!
The kit instructions add the designer’s advice and counsel to
your own knowledge and experience. His or her goals are aligned
with yours: to complete the project with minimum expenditure of
time and materials and with the best possible result.
Well-prepared kit instructions will give you an overall idea of
how the model goes together and the order of battle for
component construction and assembly. Thinking through the
project, you’ll find opportunities for parallel operations, such as
subassemblies you can work on while adhesives cure on other
components, and these can cut days off of the overall building
time.
Carefully review the “materials needed” list and determine if
you have all the necessary supplies in stock. If you do not, make a
checklist and go to the hobby store or mail-order the items you’ll
need. If you see unfamiliar materials or operations, this is the time
to get help from the kit maker or other sources.
2) Review the tools you’ll need. Having good tools and
maintaining them undoubtedly makes any construction project go
smoother.
Did you know that a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one?
The reason is that a sharp knife requires less force and is less
likely to slip. Buy single-edge razor blades and hobby-knife
blades in bulk and replace them frequently. Dispose of them
safely by taping over the cutting edge and points as soon as they
are worn.
Make long, flat sanding blocks for several grades of sandpaper.
Replace the sandpaper as soon as you notice that it’s worn.
Sandpaper is one of our more precise cutting and shaping tools,
and it works so much better when it’s new and sharp.
Be sure you have long enough straightedges. I often use 18-
inch and 1-meter aluminum ones. Fix them so they don’t slip
when in use by applying thin cork on the back or taping them
down before you run a cutting tool along the edge.
A heat gun is highly useful—not only for its common use of
shrinking covering, but to get epoxy to flow freely and to wet out
fiberglass. A razor saw comes in really handy when a hacksaw
blade is too thick and cutting with a blade would be too crude.
Use power tools when possible. Rough-sand large balsa,
hardwood, and plywood pieces using a belt or a disc sander. Use a
power rotary tool to cut and sand smaller parts quickly. I get a
great deal of use from a bench-top jigsaw.
Will you need any new tools for your next project? Is it time
for a new soldering-gun tip? Do you have the drill sizes and tap
sizes you’ll need?
How about a second pair of scissors? One for cutting
sandpaper and the other rough stuff, and one for heat-shrink
covering and other delicate work.
Is this the time to replace those worn or broken drill bits or
This is why we hustle in the shop. Dave flies his Vortech Models Fw 190D at Lake Ontario near Syracuse NY. Terry Dwyer photo.
Sheeted wings and primed fuselages for the Zeros. It doesn’t
take twice the time to build two models at the same time.
Sometimes you waste a whole paper towel on a small mess. Stack
four paper towels, make 15 cuts, and you’ll have 64 small wipes.
Soft board behind bench, made from material that will accept
pins, allows you to display plans and drawings. It is also a handy
place to keep notes and checklists.
Use a small
bottle to hold
a supply of
carpenter’s
glue. It will
be easier to
handle and
allow more
precise
application.
Constructing a
matching pair of
Slope Scale Zeros
turned Dave’s
attention to speedy
and efficient
building. He called it
the “Dual Zero”
project.
46 MODEL AVIATION
You can’t have enough zip-close bags and snap-lid plastic
containers in which to keep your small parts.
Tool racks should be within easy reach over the bench. It’s the
quickest way to find a utensil when you need it.
Sandbags are the most useful shop accessories you never knew
you needed. They are great for holding irregular-shaped parts.
Make a bunch of bags!
Stand-up bench with shelves underneath and to the side makes a
good workstation. Put tools and small parts on backboard.
Long pine sanding blocks are fantastic for removing stock and
shaping wood quickly and safely. Attach sandpaper with
thumbtacks and discard it when it dulls.
Sit-down bench with pin board behind. Two sets of fluorescent
lights have clamp-on spotlights for more light when and where
needed.
stock up on razor blades? Would a couple more small clamps
speed your work?
It’s better to get the tools you’ll use earlier in the project than
later.
3) Gather building supplies and materials. After a project is
underway is no time to run out of paper towels, waxed paper,
epoxy mixing cups, stir sticks, or masking tape; it disturbs your
flow. Stock up on these items before you start.
Do you have the adhesives you’ll need to finish the project?
Lay in a supply of epoxy and microballons, fast and slow
cyanoacrylate glue, Titebond or your favorite wood glue, ProBond
or another specialty adhesive for EPP-foam work, and Shoe Goo
for shock-mounting a servo tray into a fiberglass fuselage.
Make sure you have the solvents you’ll need: fingernail-polish
remover or other cyanoacrylate softener, alcohol for epoxy
cleanup, and Ironex, acetone, or Goo Gone to clean your scissors
and covering iron.
How about replacing those bent and rusty T-pins and stocking
November 2004 47
Four-inch-wide shelf running length of bench keeps tools and
supplies in easy reach. Main bench clears quickly with dust
brush.
Metal straightedges, taped in place, guide cuts using singleedge
razor blades. Discard blades safely the moment they show
signs of dulling.
The good thing about a wall-mount bench is that it’s easy to
mount wiggle-free. The bad thing is large items, such as an
assembled Vortech Models Fw 190D, would fit better on a
freestanding bench.
several sizes of rubber bands and suitable weights of fiberglass
cloth? Will you need a can of expanding foam to fill a void or
stiffen a fuselage?
4) Is this the time for shop improvements? It seems as though
you can never have too much horizontal work space—especially
since with parallel operations, some work dries or cures while
other building commences.
Would two benches improve your productivity? If so, think
about having two bench heights: one a standing and one a sitting
work area. Some tasks go much easier with one or the other. It’s
easier to install a wiggle-free workbench if it’s fixed to a wall, but
a freestanding bench allows you to walk around and get at all
sides of your work, and it allows you to handle larger pieces, such
as a big model with the wing mounted.
Would an extra set of shelves help you stay organized? One of
my seemingly unreachable goals is to get everything off of the
floor—to really clean up the shop—and every new set of shelves I
install gets filled rapidly. Steel shop shelving is cheap, customsized
shelves make the maximum use of available wall space, and
some things (such as finished wings or fuselages) deserve special
storage space. I’ve never been sorry about spending money or
time adding shelf space.
How’s your shop lighting? Maybe another fluorescent fixture
over the workbench would substantially increase your shadowfree
lighting. A portable, clamp-on reflector light provides
brighter task lighting when and where it’s needed. Both are
inexpensive.
5) Check to see if you have all small parts you’ll need in stock.
Will you need wire, brass tubing, clevises, servo arms, or
pushrods? How about nuts, bolts, screws, or washers? Do you
have a receiver for this model? How about the servos, switch, and
battery pack you need? It’s often the small stuff that holds you up
when a project is underway.
6) Follow logical procedures. Clear off that bench! Before you
start your project, clean up the workbench and put everything—
tools, glue, parts, etc.—away so you can find the work surface
when you need it. Get in the habit of putting tools away during
building; they’re easier to find in a regular storage place than
under piles on a messy bench.
Plan to do your dust-producing tasks together and separate
from the tasks that are sensitive to airborne dust. Sanding wing
LEs creates plenty of sawdust, and you don’t want to apply paint
or covering with airborne sawdust settling.
Measure carefully before cutting and heavy sanding. Making
templates often increases your accuracy in cutting parts and saves
time in making multiple identical parts. Measure in millimeters—
not in inch fractions. This enables you to obtain more precise and
more easily remembered measurements, and it simplifies
calculating ratios and fractions of measurements.
Stack identical parts in manageable bundles when cutting and
sanding outline shapes. Keep them together with tape or rubber
bands. Make all similar parts before going to the next step.
Store small parts such as screws, clevises, and control horns
together in small containers for each model. I use film cans,
snap-lid food containers, and zip-close plastic bags for this, and I
often write a label for each on white vinyl tape. Small containers
help you keep inventory and stay organized if you temporarily
put an airplane away in its box while you work on another
building or repair project.
7) Prepare your finishing supplies and materials. Do you
have your final color scheme in mind or your scale
documentation in hand? If so, you can order your decals or cutvinyl
markings early in the project.
Do you have enough iron-on covering, fiberglass, filler
material, etc. to finish without running out to the store? How
about primer paint, masking tape, final paint colors, paint
thinner, Testors Dullcote spray, and a couple of tack cloths?
8) Keep safety in mind. Shop safety is important and deserves
its own article, but briefly stated, protect your eyes, protect your
lungs, and protect your hands and other body parts.
Make sure you wear eye protection for any cutting or grinding
operation. Wear a dust mask when sanding. Make sure you have
adequate ventilation or wear a suitable mask or respirator when
using any paint, adhesive, or solvent. Cut in such a way that a
slipping knife or razor blade will cause no harm. Be mindful of
solder drips, splatters, and hot parts when soldering.
9) Get help if needed. If you are faced with a new procedure
or an unfamiliar adhesive, ask about it at your local hobby shop
Photos by the author except as noted
or where you buy kits and supplies. If you
belong to a club, many times your fellow
members will be helpful. Post a question
on an Internet modeling exchange. Some
builders enjoy working in a group, and
that’s a great way to learn new techniques.
10) Make building an enjoyable time.
Music sets a mood, so make provisions for
tunes in your shop. A radio, a tape player,
or a CD player will greatly improve the
atmosphere. I like big band music when
I’m working on World War II aircraft.
Be sure to dress for the occasion; wear
shop clothes. Who needs another
cyanoacrylate blob on a good T-shirt?
Heat or cool the work area so you’re
working in a comfortable temperature.
Basement shops often benefit from a
dehumidifier.
Probably the biggest payoff from time
invested comes from your reading and
understanding the kit instructions before
you start and thinking through the
procedures.
Make note especially of any operations
that are unclear and any supplies,
materials, and tools that would be helpful
to have, and get these squared away before
you start. Work safely and have fun. The
journey is as important as the destination,
no matter how fast you’re traveling.
Thanks to the guys who have increased
my model-building knowledge, skill, and
ability: Robert Cavazos, Joe Chovan, Terry
Dwyer, Jim Harrigan, Brian Laird, Mike
Lee, Carl Maas, Bob Powers, Pete Young,
and my dad David E. Garwood. MA
Dave Garwood
5 Birch Ln.
Scotia NY 12302
[email protected]
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/11
Page Numbers: 44,45,46,47,48
44 MODEL AVIATION
Building
Speed
Efficiency
With
and
by Dave Garwood
THERE ARE TIMES when you don’t care how long it takes to
build a model, because sometimes the journey is more important
than the destination. Other times it becomes a priority to complete
the project as quickly and efficiently as possible. To that end,
following is a compilation of tips and methods for organizing your
shop and planning your activities to finish a building project
rapidly and with minimum wasted time and effort.
The “Dual Zero” project turned my attention to efficient
construction methods. Endeavoring to produce two pairs of Slope
sailplanes with matched flight characteristics, Joe Chovan and I
agreed to each build a pair of Slope Scale models. He constructed
a pair of Lockheed F-80 Shooting Stars and I built a pair of
Mitsubishi A6M Zeros.
I struggled to summon all the tips, tricks, and techniques I
knew to complete this project as rapidly as possible while
maintaining my highest possible level of craftsmanship.
Furthermore, I asked my flying and building buddies to add to the
list, and they responded by generously sharing their experience.
1) Thoroughly read the kit instructions. This is one of the
easiest ways to get rolling quickly, yet some of us skip this step,
thinking perhaps we’ll save time if we dive right in. Don’t do that!
The kit instructions add the designer’s advice and counsel to
your own knowledge and experience. His or her goals are aligned
with yours: to complete the project with minimum expenditure of
time and materials and with the best possible result.
Well-prepared kit instructions will give you an overall idea of
how the model goes together and the order of battle for
component construction and assembly. Thinking through the
project, you’ll find opportunities for parallel operations, such as
subassemblies you can work on while adhesives cure on other
components, and these can cut days off of the overall building
time.
Carefully review the “materials needed” list and determine if
you have all the necessary supplies in stock. If you do not, make a
checklist and go to the hobby store or mail-order the items you’ll
need. If you see unfamiliar materials or operations, this is the time
to get help from the kit maker or other sources.
2) Review the tools you’ll need. Having good tools and
maintaining them undoubtedly makes any construction project go
smoother.
Did you know that a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one?
The reason is that a sharp knife requires less force and is less
likely to slip. Buy single-edge razor blades and hobby-knife
blades in bulk and replace them frequently. Dispose of them
safely by taping over the cutting edge and points as soon as they
are worn.
Make long, flat sanding blocks for several grades of sandpaper.
Replace the sandpaper as soon as you notice that it’s worn.
Sandpaper is one of our more precise cutting and shaping tools,
and it works so much better when it’s new and sharp.
Be sure you have long enough straightedges. I often use 18-
inch and 1-meter aluminum ones. Fix them so they don’t slip
when in use by applying thin cork on the back or taping them
down before you run a cutting tool along the edge.
A heat gun is highly useful—not only for its common use of
shrinking covering, but to get epoxy to flow freely and to wet out
fiberglass. A razor saw comes in really handy when a hacksaw
blade is too thick and cutting with a blade would be too crude.
Use power tools when possible. Rough-sand large balsa,
hardwood, and plywood pieces using a belt or a disc sander. Use a
power rotary tool to cut and sand smaller parts quickly. I get a
great deal of use from a bench-top jigsaw.
Will you need any new tools for your next project? Is it time
for a new soldering-gun tip? Do you have the drill sizes and tap
sizes you’ll need?
How about a second pair of scissors? One for cutting
sandpaper and the other rough stuff, and one for heat-shrink
covering and other delicate work.
Is this the time to replace those worn or broken drill bits or
This is why we hustle in the shop. Dave flies his Vortech Models Fw 190D at Lake Ontario near Syracuse NY. Terry Dwyer photo.
Sheeted wings and primed fuselages for the Zeros. It doesn’t
take twice the time to build two models at the same time.
Sometimes you waste a whole paper towel on a small mess. Stack
four paper towels, make 15 cuts, and you’ll have 64 small wipes.
Soft board behind bench, made from material that will accept
pins, allows you to display plans and drawings. It is also a handy
place to keep notes and checklists.
Use a small
bottle to hold
a supply of
carpenter’s
glue. It will
be easier to
handle and
allow more
precise
application.
Constructing a
matching pair of
Slope Scale Zeros
turned Dave’s
attention to speedy
and efficient
building. He called it
the “Dual Zero”
project.
46 MODEL AVIATION
You can’t have enough zip-close bags and snap-lid plastic
containers in which to keep your small parts.
Tool racks should be within easy reach over the bench. It’s the
quickest way to find a utensil when you need it.
Sandbags are the most useful shop accessories you never knew
you needed. They are great for holding irregular-shaped parts.
Make a bunch of bags!
Stand-up bench with shelves underneath and to the side makes a
good workstation. Put tools and small parts on backboard.
Long pine sanding blocks are fantastic for removing stock and
shaping wood quickly and safely. Attach sandpaper with
thumbtacks and discard it when it dulls.
Sit-down bench with pin board behind. Two sets of fluorescent
lights have clamp-on spotlights for more light when and where
needed.
stock up on razor blades? Would a couple more small clamps
speed your work?
It’s better to get the tools you’ll use earlier in the project than
later.
3) Gather building supplies and materials. After a project is
underway is no time to run out of paper towels, waxed paper,
epoxy mixing cups, stir sticks, or masking tape; it disturbs your
flow. Stock up on these items before you start.
Do you have the adhesives you’ll need to finish the project?
Lay in a supply of epoxy and microballons, fast and slow
cyanoacrylate glue, Titebond or your favorite wood glue, ProBond
or another specialty adhesive for EPP-foam work, and Shoe Goo
for shock-mounting a servo tray into a fiberglass fuselage.
Make sure you have the solvents you’ll need: fingernail-polish
remover or other cyanoacrylate softener, alcohol for epoxy
cleanup, and Ironex, acetone, or Goo Gone to clean your scissors
and covering iron.
How about replacing those bent and rusty T-pins and stocking
November 2004 47
Four-inch-wide shelf running length of bench keeps tools and
supplies in easy reach. Main bench clears quickly with dust
brush.
Metal straightedges, taped in place, guide cuts using singleedge
razor blades. Discard blades safely the moment they show
signs of dulling.
The good thing about a wall-mount bench is that it’s easy to
mount wiggle-free. The bad thing is large items, such as an
assembled Vortech Models Fw 190D, would fit better on a
freestanding bench.
several sizes of rubber bands and suitable weights of fiberglass
cloth? Will you need a can of expanding foam to fill a void or
stiffen a fuselage?
4) Is this the time for shop improvements? It seems as though
you can never have too much horizontal work space—especially
since with parallel operations, some work dries or cures while
other building commences.
Would two benches improve your productivity? If so, think
about having two bench heights: one a standing and one a sitting
work area. Some tasks go much easier with one or the other. It’s
easier to install a wiggle-free workbench if it’s fixed to a wall, but
a freestanding bench allows you to walk around and get at all
sides of your work, and it allows you to handle larger pieces, such
as a big model with the wing mounted.
Would an extra set of shelves help you stay organized? One of
my seemingly unreachable goals is to get everything off of the
floor—to really clean up the shop—and every new set of shelves I
install gets filled rapidly. Steel shop shelving is cheap, customsized
shelves make the maximum use of available wall space, and
some things (such as finished wings or fuselages) deserve special
storage space. I’ve never been sorry about spending money or
time adding shelf space.
How’s your shop lighting? Maybe another fluorescent fixture
over the workbench would substantially increase your shadowfree
lighting. A portable, clamp-on reflector light provides
brighter task lighting when and where it’s needed. Both are
inexpensive.
5) Check to see if you have all small parts you’ll need in stock.
Will you need wire, brass tubing, clevises, servo arms, or
pushrods? How about nuts, bolts, screws, or washers? Do you
have a receiver for this model? How about the servos, switch, and
battery pack you need? It’s often the small stuff that holds you up
when a project is underway.
6) Follow logical procedures. Clear off that bench! Before you
start your project, clean up the workbench and put everything—
tools, glue, parts, etc.—away so you can find the work surface
when you need it. Get in the habit of putting tools away during
building; they’re easier to find in a regular storage place than
under piles on a messy bench.
Plan to do your dust-producing tasks together and separate
from the tasks that are sensitive to airborne dust. Sanding wing
LEs creates plenty of sawdust, and you don’t want to apply paint
or covering with airborne sawdust settling.
Measure carefully before cutting and heavy sanding. Making
templates often increases your accuracy in cutting parts and saves
time in making multiple identical parts. Measure in millimeters—
not in inch fractions. This enables you to obtain more precise and
more easily remembered measurements, and it simplifies
calculating ratios and fractions of measurements.
Stack identical parts in manageable bundles when cutting and
sanding outline shapes. Keep them together with tape or rubber
bands. Make all similar parts before going to the next step.
Store small parts such as screws, clevises, and control horns
together in small containers for each model. I use film cans,
snap-lid food containers, and zip-close plastic bags for this, and I
often write a label for each on white vinyl tape. Small containers
help you keep inventory and stay organized if you temporarily
put an airplane away in its box while you work on another
building or repair project.
7) Prepare your finishing supplies and materials. Do you
have your final color scheme in mind or your scale
documentation in hand? If so, you can order your decals or cutvinyl
markings early in the project.
Do you have enough iron-on covering, fiberglass, filler
material, etc. to finish without running out to the store? How
about primer paint, masking tape, final paint colors, paint
thinner, Testors Dullcote spray, and a couple of tack cloths?
8) Keep safety in mind. Shop safety is important and deserves
its own article, but briefly stated, protect your eyes, protect your
lungs, and protect your hands and other body parts.
Make sure you wear eye protection for any cutting or grinding
operation. Wear a dust mask when sanding. Make sure you have
adequate ventilation or wear a suitable mask or respirator when
using any paint, adhesive, or solvent. Cut in such a way that a
slipping knife or razor blade will cause no harm. Be mindful of
solder drips, splatters, and hot parts when soldering.
9) Get help if needed. If you are faced with a new procedure
or an unfamiliar adhesive, ask about it at your local hobby shop
Photos by the author except as noted
or where you buy kits and supplies. If you
belong to a club, many times your fellow
members will be helpful. Post a question
on an Internet modeling exchange. Some
builders enjoy working in a group, and
that’s a great way to learn new techniques.
10) Make building an enjoyable time.
Music sets a mood, so make provisions for
tunes in your shop. A radio, a tape player,
or a CD player will greatly improve the
atmosphere. I like big band music when
I’m working on World War II aircraft.
Be sure to dress for the occasion; wear
shop clothes. Who needs another
cyanoacrylate blob on a good T-shirt?
Heat or cool the work area so you’re
working in a comfortable temperature.
Basement shops often benefit from a
dehumidifier.
Probably the biggest payoff from time
invested comes from your reading and
understanding the kit instructions before
you start and thinking through the
procedures.
Make note especially of any operations
that are unclear and any supplies,
materials, and tools that would be helpful
to have, and get these squared away before
you start. Work safely and have fun. The
journey is as important as the destination,
no matter how fast you’re traveling.
Thanks to the guys who have increased
my model-building knowledge, skill, and
ability: Robert Cavazos, Joe Chovan, Terry
Dwyer, Jim Harrigan, Brian Laird, Mike
Lee, Carl Maas, Bob Powers, Pete Young,
and my dad David E. Garwood. MA
Dave Garwood
5 Birch Ln.
Scotia NY 12302
[email protected]
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/11
Page Numbers: 44,45,46,47,48
44 MODEL AVIATION
Building
Speed
Efficiency
With
and
by Dave Garwood
THERE ARE TIMES when you don’t care how long it takes to
build a model, because sometimes the journey is more important
than the destination. Other times it becomes a priority to complete
the project as quickly and efficiently as possible. To that end,
following is a compilation of tips and methods for organizing your
shop and planning your activities to finish a building project
rapidly and with minimum wasted time and effort.
The “Dual Zero” project turned my attention to efficient
construction methods. Endeavoring to produce two pairs of Slope
sailplanes with matched flight characteristics, Joe Chovan and I
agreed to each build a pair of Slope Scale models. He constructed
a pair of Lockheed F-80 Shooting Stars and I built a pair of
Mitsubishi A6M Zeros.
I struggled to summon all the tips, tricks, and techniques I
knew to complete this project as rapidly as possible while
maintaining my highest possible level of craftsmanship.
Furthermore, I asked my flying and building buddies to add to the
list, and they responded by generously sharing their experience.
1) Thoroughly read the kit instructions. This is one of the
easiest ways to get rolling quickly, yet some of us skip this step,
thinking perhaps we’ll save time if we dive right in. Don’t do that!
The kit instructions add the designer’s advice and counsel to
your own knowledge and experience. His or her goals are aligned
with yours: to complete the project with minimum expenditure of
time and materials and with the best possible result.
Well-prepared kit instructions will give you an overall idea of
how the model goes together and the order of battle for
component construction and assembly. Thinking through the
project, you’ll find opportunities for parallel operations, such as
subassemblies you can work on while adhesives cure on other
components, and these can cut days off of the overall building
time.
Carefully review the “materials needed” list and determine if
you have all the necessary supplies in stock. If you do not, make a
checklist and go to the hobby store or mail-order the items you’ll
need. If you see unfamiliar materials or operations, this is the time
to get help from the kit maker or other sources.
2) Review the tools you’ll need. Having good tools and
maintaining them undoubtedly makes any construction project go
smoother.
Did you know that a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one?
The reason is that a sharp knife requires less force and is less
likely to slip. Buy single-edge razor blades and hobby-knife
blades in bulk and replace them frequently. Dispose of them
safely by taping over the cutting edge and points as soon as they
are worn.
Make long, flat sanding blocks for several grades of sandpaper.
Replace the sandpaper as soon as you notice that it’s worn.
Sandpaper is one of our more precise cutting and shaping tools,
and it works so much better when it’s new and sharp.
Be sure you have long enough straightedges. I often use 18-
inch and 1-meter aluminum ones. Fix them so they don’t slip
when in use by applying thin cork on the back or taping them
down before you run a cutting tool along the edge.
A heat gun is highly useful—not only for its common use of
shrinking covering, but to get epoxy to flow freely and to wet out
fiberglass. A razor saw comes in really handy when a hacksaw
blade is too thick and cutting with a blade would be too crude.
Use power tools when possible. Rough-sand large balsa,
hardwood, and plywood pieces using a belt or a disc sander. Use a
power rotary tool to cut and sand smaller parts quickly. I get a
great deal of use from a bench-top jigsaw.
Will you need any new tools for your next project? Is it time
for a new soldering-gun tip? Do you have the drill sizes and tap
sizes you’ll need?
How about a second pair of scissors? One for cutting
sandpaper and the other rough stuff, and one for heat-shrink
covering and other delicate work.
Is this the time to replace those worn or broken drill bits or
This is why we hustle in the shop. Dave flies his Vortech Models Fw 190D at Lake Ontario near Syracuse NY. Terry Dwyer photo.
Sheeted wings and primed fuselages for the Zeros. It doesn’t
take twice the time to build two models at the same time.
Sometimes you waste a whole paper towel on a small mess. Stack
four paper towels, make 15 cuts, and you’ll have 64 small wipes.
Soft board behind bench, made from material that will accept
pins, allows you to display plans and drawings. It is also a handy
place to keep notes and checklists.
Use a small
bottle to hold
a supply of
carpenter’s
glue. It will
be easier to
handle and
allow more
precise
application.
Constructing a
matching pair of
Slope Scale Zeros
turned Dave’s
attention to speedy
and efficient
building. He called it
the “Dual Zero”
project.
46 MODEL AVIATION
You can’t have enough zip-close bags and snap-lid plastic
containers in which to keep your small parts.
Tool racks should be within easy reach over the bench. It’s the
quickest way to find a utensil when you need it.
Sandbags are the most useful shop accessories you never knew
you needed. They are great for holding irregular-shaped parts.
Make a bunch of bags!
Stand-up bench with shelves underneath and to the side makes a
good workstation. Put tools and small parts on backboard.
Long pine sanding blocks are fantastic for removing stock and
shaping wood quickly and safely. Attach sandpaper with
thumbtacks and discard it when it dulls.
Sit-down bench with pin board behind. Two sets of fluorescent
lights have clamp-on spotlights for more light when and where
needed.
stock up on razor blades? Would a couple more small clamps
speed your work?
It’s better to get the tools you’ll use earlier in the project than
later.
3) Gather building supplies and materials. After a project is
underway is no time to run out of paper towels, waxed paper,
epoxy mixing cups, stir sticks, or masking tape; it disturbs your
flow. Stock up on these items before you start.
Do you have the adhesives you’ll need to finish the project?
Lay in a supply of epoxy and microballons, fast and slow
cyanoacrylate glue, Titebond or your favorite wood glue, ProBond
or another specialty adhesive for EPP-foam work, and Shoe Goo
for shock-mounting a servo tray into a fiberglass fuselage.
Make sure you have the solvents you’ll need: fingernail-polish
remover or other cyanoacrylate softener, alcohol for epoxy
cleanup, and Ironex, acetone, or Goo Gone to clean your scissors
and covering iron.
How about replacing those bent and rusty T-pins and stocking
November 2004 47
Four-inch-wide shelf running length of bench keeps tools and
supplies in easy reach. Main bench clears quickly with dust
brush.
Metal straightedges, taped in place, guide cuts using singleedge
razor blades. Discard blades safely the moment they show
signs of dulling.
The good thing about a wall-mount bench is that it’s easy to
mount wiggle-free. The bad thing is large items, such as an
assembled Vortech Models Fw 190D, would fit better on a
freestanding bench.
several sizes of rubber bands and suitable weights of fiberglass
cloth? Will you need a can of expanding foam to fill a void or
stiffen a fuselage?
4) Is this the time for shop improvements? It seems as though
you can never have too much horizontal work space—especially
since with parallel operations, some work dries or cures while
other building commences.
Would two benches improve your productivity? If so, think
about having two bench heights: one a standing and one a sitting
work area. Some tasks go much easier with one or the other. It’s
easier to install a wiggle-free workbench if it’s fixed to a wall, but
a freestanding bench allows you to walk around and get at all
sides of your work, and it allows you to handle larger pieces, such
as a big model with the wing mounted.
Would an extra set of shelves help you stay organized? One of
my seemingly unreachable goals is to get everything off of the
floor—to really clean up the shop—and every new set of shelves I
install gets filled rapidly. Steel shop shelving is cheap, customsized
shelves make the maximum use of available wall space, and
some things (such as finished wings or fuselages) deserve special
storage space. I’ve never been sorry about spending money or
time adding shelf space.
How’s your shop lighting? Maybe another fluorescent fixture
over the workbench would substantially increase your shadowfree
lighting. A portable, clamp-on reflector light provides
brighter task lighting when and where it’s needed. Both are
inexpensive.
5) Check to see if you have all small parts you’ll need in stock.
Will you need wire, brass tubing, clevises, servo arms, or
pushrods? How about nuts, bolts, screws, or washers? Do you
have a receiver for this model? How about the servos, switch, and
battery pack you need? It’s often the small stuff that holds you up
when a project is underway.
6) Follow logical procedures. Clear off that bench! Before you
start your project, clean up the workbench and put everything—
tools, glue, parts, etc.—away so you can find the work surface
when you need it. Get in the habit of putting tools away during
building; they’re easier to find in a regular storage place than
under piles on a messy bench.
Plan to do your dust-producing tasks together and separate
from the tasks that are sensitive to airborne dust. Sanding wing
LEs creates plenty of sawdust, and you don’t want to apply paint
or covering with airborne sawdust settling.
Measure carefully before cutting and heavy sanding. Making
templates often increases your accuracy in cutting parts and saves
time in making multiple identical parts. Measure in millimeters—
not in inch fractions. This enables you to obtain more precise and
more easily remembered measurements, and it simplifies
calculating ratios and fractions of measurements.
Stack identical parts in manageable bundles when cutting and
sanding outline shapes. Keep them together with tape or rubber
bands. Make all similar parts before going to the next step.
Store small parts such as screws, clevises, and control horns
together in small containers for each model. I use film cans,
snap-lid food containers, and zip-close plastic bags for this, and I
often write a label for each on white vinyl tape. Small containers
help you keep inventory and stay organized if you temporarily
put an airplane away in its box while you work on another
building or repair project.
7) Prepare your finishing supplies and materials. Do you
have your final color scheme in mind or your scale
documentation in hand? If so, you can order your decals or cutvinyl
markings early in the project.
Do you have enough iron-on covering, fiberglass, filler
material, etc. to finish without running out to the store? How
about primer paint, masking tape, final paint colors, paint
thinner, Testors Dullcote spray, and a couple of tack cloths?
8) Keep safety in mind. Shop safety is important and deserves
its own article, but briefly stated, protect your eyes, protect your
lungs, and protect your hands and other body parts.
Make sure you wear eye protection for any cutting or grinding
operation. Wear a dust mask when sanding. Make sure you have
adequate ventilation or wear a suitable mask or respirator when
using any paint, adhesive, or solvent. Cut in such a way that a
slipping knife or razor blade will cause no harm. Be mindful of
solder drips, splatters, and hot parts when soldering.
9) Get help if needed. If you are faced with a new procedure
or an unfamiliar adhesive, ask about it at your local hobby shop
Photos by the author except as noted
or where you buy kits and supplies. If you
belong to a club, many times your fellow
members will be helpful. Post a question
on an Internet modeling exchange. Some
builders enjoy working in a group, and
that’s a great way to learn new techniques.
10) Make building an enjoyable time.
Music sets a mood, so make provisions for
tunes in your shop. A radio, a tape player,
or a CD player will greatly improve the
atmosphere. I like big band music when
I’m working on World War II aircraft.
Be sure to dress for the occasion; wear
shop clothes. Who needs another
cyanoacrylate blob on a good T-shirt?
Heat or cool the work area so you’re
working in a comfortable temperature.
Basement shops often benefit from a
dehumidifier.
Probably the biggest payoff from time
invested comes from your reading and
understanding the kit instructions before
you start and thinking through the
procedures.
Make note especially of any operations
that are unclear and any supplies,
materials, and tools that would be helpful
to have, and get these squared away before
you start. Work safely and have fun. The
journey is as important as the destination,
no matter how fast you’re traveling.
Thanks to the guys who have increased
my model-building knowledge, skill, and
ability: Robert Cavazos, Joe Chovan, Terry
Dwyer, Jim Harrigan, Brian Laird, Mike
Lee, Carl Maas, Bob Powers, Pete Young,
and my dad David E. Garwood. MA
Dave Garwood
5 Birch Ln.
Scotia NY 12302
[email protected]