Several years ago, my father built the Carl Goldberg Chipmunk 400 and offered me the maiden flight. The aircraft was attractive in Art Scholl’s colors and was a nice-flying, park-size, electric-powered model. When I found out that Great Planes was releasing the aircraft as part of its Carl Goldberg Classics series, I was excited for the opportunity to again wiggle the sticks.
Now called the Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk EP, the model has traded in its motorstick for a motor box to accommodate more modern outrunner motors. It received several other improvements to enhance the assembly and flight experience.
The Super Chipmunk is easy to see in the air with its
attractive color scheme. It has aerobatic, yet forgiving,
flight characteristics.
Construction
I was immediately impressed with the covering when I examined the model. Not
only was the MonoKote wrinkle free, but Art Scholl’s intricate red, white, and blue
scheme was masterfully recreated.
I did fi nd a 1-inch crack in the canopy on the right side behind the clear portion.
I used a small amount of odorless CA on the inside to repair it and ensure the crack
did not get any larger.
The wing was fi rst up in the assembly of the Chipmunk. After the CA hinges were
glued in, it was time to mount the servos. The Futaba 3114 servos dropped right in
and the predrilled mounting holes aligned perfectly.
The manual recommends using a 6-inch servo extension for each aileron servo and
utilizing heat shrink or clips to secure the plugs and keep them connected. Be careful
when feeding the servo wires through the wing that the clip or plug does not poke
into the top of the wing covering. There is not much clearance to feed it through the
servo opening. A preattached string in each wing half helps with this process.
The aileron pushrods come with a “V” bend in them to allow for adjustment. Mine
were slightly long and I tightened the “V” to shorten the pushrod. The adjustments
were easily made using two pairs of pliers.
After the wing was glued together with epoxy, it was time to mount the landing
gear. The landing gear wires are secured to the wing with nylon straps.
Installing the wheel pants required the hole to be chamfered slightly so that the
landing gear wire would fi t all the way into the leg. I found that a 3/32 drill bit, turned
by hand, was nearly perfect for this.
Moving on to the fuselage, I discovered that the exit holes for the rudder and
elevator are opposite of what is shown in the manual. The manual also instructs the
builder to drill a 1/16-inch hole in the elevator’s LE for the joiner wire; mine already
had the holes predrilled. When it came time to attach the horizontal stabilizer, the
fuselage required a light sanding to get the stabilizer to line up with the wing.
After attaching the vertical stabilizer, I inserted the tail wheel gear wire into the
bottom of the fuselage and into the rudder. Although the slot was in the rudder for
the wire, I needed to drill the hole to insert the wire into the rudder. Before you drill
the hole, be sure that the white plastic washer and collar are against the bottom of
the fuselage.
Here’s what you’ll nd
when you open the box. The
covering was excellent and
required little work with the
covering iron.
Above: This look inside the fuselage shows
where everything is mounted. A Velcro strap
and hook-and-loop material are used to keep
the battery in place during flight.
The aileron
pushrods come
with a “V” bend
in them to allow
for adjustment.
The control horn
was colored with
a Sharpie a er it
was installed.
After mounting
the elevator and
rudder servos into
the plywood servo
tray, I referenced
the photo in
the manual to
determine the
correct location
to attach the
servo tray inside
the fuselage, and
I found that the
inside of the
fuselage in the
manual differed
slightly from my
model. Although
it was a tight fit, I
was able to mount
the tray in roughly
the same location.
I encountered a
minor issue with the screw-lock connectors for the rudder and
elevator. They were not drilled all the way through, preventing
the pushrods from passing through them. Rather than drill
them out, I replaced them with Du-Bro Mini E/Z connectors.
Included in the kit is a dorsal fin that attached to the top of
the fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer’s LE to enhance the
scale appearance. The manual explains the process of removing
a strip of covering 53/4 inches long and 1/16-inch wide, but I
opted to glue it directly to the covering using epoxy. I did not
want to risk cutting into the fuselage when trying to remove
the covering.
Before mounting the cowl, the builder must cut an air inlet
hole into the bottom for additional cooling. Using a fine-point
Sharpie, I drew the hole to match what was shown in the
manual and used my Dremel tool to open it up. I also found
that the hole in the cowl for the propeller shaft required
a little work with the Dremel to keep the propeller shaft
adapter from rubbing.
Applying the included decals was one
of the last steps needed to complete the model. Although they
were of good quality and easy to attach, the decals seemed
to be a combination of those used on both of Art’s aircraft
and not one specifically. The Pennzoil Super Chipmunk decal
should be on the cowl, not the fuselage as pictured on the box!
The recommended CG is 21/2 inches back from the wing’s
LE at the fuselage sides with the model inverted. I was able to
get the model to balance without any added weight by moving
the battery forward on the battery tray. My finished model
came in at 22 ounces, which is 1 to 3 ounces lighter than the
listed weight range.
The manual provides high and low rates for throws on the
ailerons, elevator, and rudder. I have settled on the following
rates to allow for scalelike flight characteristics and aerobatic
capability: elevator 3/8 inch up and down; ailerons 5/16 inch up
and down; rudder 1 inch right and left.
Art Scholl’s Super Chipmunk is on display
at the Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia
Art Scholl was a famed aerobatic pilot from the 1950s to the
mid-1980s who was well known for flying the brightly colored
red, white, and blue Super Chipmunk. He was also known for
performing with his dog, Aileron, who cheerfully accompanied
him inside the cockpit. In 1974, Art won the US National
Aerobatic Championship in a Pitts S-2A.
Art also worked as a pilot and camera man for television and
movies. On September 16, 1985, he was killed while flying a Pitts
Special for the movie, Top Gun.
In his honor, each year the International Council of Air
Shows presents the Art Scholl Showmanship Award to the air
show act or performer which best exemplifies the qualities of
showmanship demonstrated by Art Scholl.
Both of Art’s famous Super Chipmunk aircraft are currently on
display. One resides at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum’s
Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia, and the other at the EAA
Museum in Oshkosh, Wisconsin.
The Rimfire 400 brushless outrunner is easily
mounted to the motor box and is a perfect
match for this aircraft. The ESC is mounted to
the bottom of the small tray behind the motor
right in the airflow.
The tail wheel wire is inserted into the rudder
when it is attached, providing a steerable tail
wheel.
The Futaba S3114 servos for rudder and elevator
are mounted to the plywood servo tray and then
it is installed inside the fuselage.
Flying
Because I had fl own the earlier
version of the Chipmunk, I knew I was
in for a treat and sure enough, the newand-
improved Super Chipmunk did
not disappoint me. The model requires
only slight rudder input to keep it
tracking straight down the paved
runway and is capable of becoming
SPECIFICATIONS
Model type: Semiscale ARF
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 38 inches
Wing area: 242 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 23 to 25 ounces
Power system: 400-size brushless outrunner,
25-amp ESC
Radio: Four channel with four
microservos
Construction: Balsa and light plywood
Covering/fi nish: Iron-on covering with decals
Street price: $129.99
TEST-MODEL DETAILS
Motor used: Rimfi re 400
Battery: Flightpower 3S 1200 mAh 30C
Propeller: ElectriFly PowerFlow 8 x 6
Slo-Flyer
Radio system: Futaba 8FG radio, Futaba
R617FS receiver, four Futaba
S3114 microservos, two
6-inch servo extensions
Ready-to-fl y
weight: 22 ounces
Flight duration: 8 to 10 minutes
Amps: 13.57
Watts: 158.6
PLUSES
• Covering was well done and required little
attention
• Provisions made for easy installation of a
pilot fi gure (not included)
• Sturdy, lightweight construction
• Recommended equipment a good match for
the aircraft
• Excellent-fl ying model
MINUSES
• Decals are a combination of two Super
Chipmunks fl own by Art Scholl
• Canopy was cracked
• Screw-lock connectors not drilled through
AT A GLANCE ...
airborne at roughly half throttle.
A mid-range throttle provides nice,
stable fl ight, and full throttle allows for
lively aerobatics.
The motor/propeller combination for
the Chipmunk is perfect. It provides
enough power for air show-style
aerobatics and decent fl ight times. A
vertical upline from a full throttle pass
will yield two rolls until the Chipmunk
runs out of steam and momentarily
hangs on the propeller. Adding a stall
turn or Hammerhead at the end makes
for a realistic air show performance.
Rolls require a bump of elevator to
keep them crisp, and loops are a thing
of beauty. Loop-roll combinations such
as Immelmann turns and Half Cuban
8s are easily fl own and look crisp. Knifeedge
fl ight requires full power and full
rudder to hold it, and the Chipmunk
pulls slightly toward the canopy.
Inverted fl ight is easy to maintain with
slight down-elevator.
Thanks to its lightweight construction,
my 22-ounce model is a real fl oater. It is
forgiving in fl ight and during stall testing,
the wings rock slightly and then the nose
drops for an easy recovery. On repeated
attempts, it never dropped a wing.
Landings are a breeze. I like to align
the model on fi nal and slowly reduce the
power and fl air to a beautiful landing.
Don’t hold too much back pressure
when the Chipmunk touches down
or it will be airborne again. Although I
haven’t tried it, a gliding approach to
landing might also be possible.
When the Chipmunk is on the
blacktop, the steerable tail wheel
provides plenty of control to taxi the
model back to the fl ight station or pit
area.
Conclusion
The Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk
EP ARF is a beautiful aircraft. The
covering on the one I received was
excellent and a faithful reproduction
of the famous aircraft. While the
decals aren’t a perfect match to Art
Scholl’s aircraft, they provide for a nice
semiscale park fl yer that will grab your
attention with its good looks and then
win you over with its satisfying fl ight
characteristics.
The Super Chipmunk is perfect for
pilots looking to put on a park fl yer-size
air show and its colorful scheme is easy
to see in the air.
—Jay Smith
[email protected]
MANUFACTURER/DISTRIBUTOR:
Hobbico
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660
www.greatplanes.com
SOURCES:
ElectriFly
(800) 682-8948
www.electrifl y.com
Futaba
(800) 682-8948
www.futaba-rc.com
FlightPower
(800) 637-7660
www.fl ightpowerusa.com
Photos by the author
MA Digital Extras!
Learn more about Art Scholl, the full-scale
aerobatic pilot of the Super Chipmunk in our
tablet edition or go online to watch a fl ight
video!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/11
Page Numbers: 46,47,48,49,50
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/11
Page Numbers: 46,47,48,49,50
Several years ago, my father built the Carl Goldberg Chipmunk 400 and offered me the maiden flight. The aircraft was attractive in Art Scholl’s colors and was a nice-flying, park-size, electric-powered model. When I found out that Great Planes was releasing the aircraft as part of its Carl Goldberg Classics series, I was excited for the opportunity to again wiggle the sticks.
Now called the Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk EP, the model has traded in its motorstick for a motor box to accommodate more modern outrunner motors. It received several other improvements to enhance the assembly and flight experience.
The Super Chipmunk is easy to see in the air with its
attractive color scheme. It has aerobatic, yet forgiving,
flight characteristics.
Construction
I was immediately impressed with the covering when I examined the model. Not
only was the MonoKote wrinkle free, but Art Scholl’s intricate red, white, and blue
scheme was masterfully recreated.
I did fi nd a 1-inch crack in the canopy on the right side behind the clear portion.
I used a small amount of odorless CA on the inside to repair it and ensure the crack
did not get any larger.
The wing was fi rst up in the assembly of the Chipmunk. After the CA hinges were
glued in, it was time to mount the servos. The Futaba 3114 servos dropped right in
and the predrilled mounting holes aligned perfectly.
The manual recommends using a 6-inch servo extension for each aileron servo and
utilizing heat shrink or clips to secure the plugs and keep them connected. Be careful
when feeding the servo wires through the wing that the clip or plug does not poke
into the top of the wing covering. There is not much clearance to feed it through the
servo opening. A preattached string in each wing half helps with this process.
The aileron pushrods come with a “V” bend in them to allow for adjustment. Mine
were slightly long and I tightened the “V” to shorten the pushrod. The adjustments
were easily made using two pairs of pliers.
After the wing was glued together with epoxy, it was time to mount the landing
gear. The landing gear wires are secured to the wing with nylon straps.
Installing the wheel pants required the hole to be chamfered slightly so that the
landing gear wire would fi t all the way into the leg. I found that a 3/32 drill bit, turned
by hand, was nearly perfect for this.
Moving on to the fuselage, I discovered that the exit holes for the rudder and
elevator are opposite of what is shown in the manual. The manual also instructs the
builder to drill a 1/16-inch hole in the elevator’s LE for the joiner wire; mine already
had the holes predrilled. When it came time to attach the horizontal stabilizer, the
fuselage required a light sanding to get the stabilizer to line up with the wing.
After attaching the vertical stabilizer, I inserted the tail wheel gear wire into the
bottom of the fuselage and into the rudder. Although the slot was in the rudder for
the wire, I needed to drill the hole to insert the wire into the rudder. Before you drill
the hole, be sure that the white plastic washer and collar are against the bottom of
the fuselage.
Here’s what you’ll nd
when you open the box. The
covering was excellent and
required little work with the
covering iron.
Above: This look inside the fuselage shows
where everything is mounted. A Velcro strap
and hook-and-loop material are used to keep
the battery in place during flight.
The aileron
pushrods come
with a “V” bend
in them to allow
for adjustment.
The control horn
was colored with
a Sharpie a er it
was installed.
After mounting
the elevator and
rudder servos into
the plywood servo
tray, I referenced
the photo in
the manual to
determine the
correct location
to attach the
servo tray inside
the fuselage, and
I found that the
inside of the
fuselage in the
manual differed
slightly from my
model. Although
it was a tight fit, I
was able to mount
the tray in roughly
the same location.
I encountered a
minor issue with the screw-lock connectors for the rudder and
elevator. They were not drilled all the way through, preventing
the pushrods from passing through them. Rather than drill
them out, I replaced them with Du-Bro Mini E/Z connectors.
Included in the kit is a dorsal fin that attached to the top of
the fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer’s LE to enhance the
scale appearance. The manual explains the process of removing
a strip of covering 53/4 inches long and 1/16-inch wide, but I
opted to glue it directly to the covering using epoxy. I did not
want to risk cutting into the fuselage when trying to remove
the covering.
Before mounting the cowl, the builder must cut an air inlet
hole into the bottom for additional cooling. Using a fine-point
Sharpie, I drew the hole to match what was shown in the
manual and used my Dremel tool to open it up. I also found
that the hole in the cowl for the propeller shaft required
a little work with the Dremel to keep the propeller shaft
adapter from rubbing.
Applying the included decals was one
of the last steps needed to complete the model. Although they
were of good quality and easy to attach, the decals seemed
to be a combination of those used on both of Art’s aircraft
and not one specifically. The Pennzoil Super Chipmunk decal
should be on the cowl, not the fuselage as pictured on the box!
The recommended CG is 21/2 inches back from the wing’s
LE at the fuselage sides with the model inverted. I was able to
get the model to balance without any added weight by moving
the battery forward on the battery tray. My finished model
came in at 22 ounces, which is 1 to 3 ounces lighter than the
listed weight range.
The manual provides high and low rates for throws on the
ailerons, elevator, and rudder. I have settled on the following
rates to allow for scalelike flight characteristics and aerobatic
capability: elevator 3/8 inch up and down; ailerons 5/16 inch up
and down; rudder 1 inch right and left.
Art Scholl’s Super Chipmunk is on display
at the Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia
Art Scholl was a famed aerobatic pilot from the 1950s to the
mid-1980s who was well known for flying the brightly colored
red, white, and blue Super Chipmunk. He was also known for
performing with his dog, Aileron, who cheerfully accompanied
him inside the cockpit. In 1974, Art won the US National
Aerobatic Championship in a Pitts S-2A.
Art also worked as a pilot and camera man for television and
movies. On September 16, 1985, he was killed while flying a Pitts
Special for the movie, Top Gun.
In his honor, each year the International Council of Air
Shows presents the Art Scholl Showmanship Award to the air
show act or performer which best exemplifies the qualities of
showmanship demonstrated by Art Scholl.
Both of Art’s famous Super Chipmunk aircraft are currently on
display. One resides at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum’s
Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia, and the other at the EAA
Museum in Oshkosh, Wisconsin.
The Rimfire 400 brushless outrunner is easily
mounted to the motor box and is a perfect
match for this aircraft. The ESC is mounted to
the bottom of the small tray behind the motor
right in the airflow.
The tail wheel wire is inserted into the rudder
when it is attached, providing a steerable tail
wheel.
The Futaba S3114 servos for rudder and elevator
are mounted to the plywood servo tray and then
it is installed inside the fuselage.
Flying
Because I had fl own the earlier
version of the Chipmunk, I knew I was
in for a treat and sure enough, the newand-
improved Super Chipmunk did
not disappoint me. The model requires
only slight rudder input to keep it
tracking straight down the paved
runway and is capable of becoming
SPECIFICATIONS
Model type: Semiscale ARF
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 38 inches
Wing area: 242 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 23 to 25 ounces
Power system: 400-size brushless outrunner,
25-amp ESC
Radio: Four channel with four
microservos
Construction: Balsa and light plywood
Covering/fi nish: Iron-on covering with decals
Street price: $129.99
TEST-MODEL DETAILS
Motor used: Rimfi re 400
Battery: Flightpower 3S 1200 mAh 30C
Propeller: ElectriFly PowerFlow 8 x 6
Slo-Flyer
Radio system: Futaba 8FG radio, Futaba
R617FS receiver, four Futaba
S3114 microservos, two
6-inch servo extensions
Ready-to-fl y
weight: 22 ounces
Flight duration: 8 to 10 minutes
Amps: 13.57
Watts: 158.6
PLUSES
• Covering was well done and required little
attention
• Provisions made for easy installation of a
pilot fi gure (not included)
• Sturdy, lightweight construction
• Recommended equipment a good match for
the aircraft
• Excellent-fl ying model
MINUSES
• Decals are a combination of two Super
Chipmunks fl own by Art Scholl
• Canopy was cracked
• Screw-lock connectors not drilled through
AT A GLANCE ...
airborne at roughly half throttle.
A mid-range throttle provides nice,
stable fl ight, and full throttle allows for
lively aerobatics.
The motor/propeller combination for
the Chipmunk is perfect. It provides
enough power for air show-style
aerobatics and decent fl ight times. A
vertical upline from a full throttle pass
will yield two rolls until the Chipmunk
runs out of steam and momentarily
hangs on the propeller. Adding a stall
turn or Hammerhead at the end makes
for a realistic air show performance.
Rolls require a bump of elevator to
keep them crisp, and loops are a thing
of beauty. Loop-roll combinations such
as Immelmann turns and Half Cuban
8s are easily fl own and look crisp. Knifeedge
fl ight requires full power and full
rudder to hold it, and the Chipmunk
pulls slightly toward the canopy.
Inverted fl ight is easy to maintain with
slight down-elevator.
Thanks to its lightweight construction,
my 22-ounce model is a real fl oater. It is
forgiving in fl ight and during stall testing,
the wings rock slightly and then the nose
drops for an easy recovery. On repeated
attempts, it never dropped a wing.
Landings are a breeze. I like to align
the model on fi nal and slowly reduce the
power and fl air to a beautiful landing.
Don’t hold too much back pressure
when the Chipmunk touches down
or it will be airborne again. Although I
haven’t tried it, a gliding approach to
landing might also be possible.
When the Chipmunk is on the
blacktop, the steerable tail wheel
provides plenty of control to taxi the
model back to the fl ight station or pit
area.
Conclusion
The Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk
EP ARF is a beautiful aircraft. The
covering on the one I received was
excellent and a faithful reproduction
of the famous aircraft. While the
decals aren’t a perfect match to Art
Scholl’s aircraft, they provide for a nice
semiscale park fl yer that will grab your
attention with its good looks and then
win you over with its satisfying fl ight
characteristics.
The Super Chipmunk is perfect for
pilots looking to put on a park fl yer-size
air show and its colorful scheme is easy
to see in the air.
—Jay Smith
[email protected]
MANUFACTURER/DISTRIBUTOR:
Hobbico
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660
www.greatplanes.com
SOURCES:
ElectriFly
(800) 682-8948
www.electrifl y.com
Futaba
(800) 682-8948
www.futaba-rc.com
FlightPower
(800) 637-7660
www.fl ightpowerusa.com
Photos by the author
MA Digital Extras!
Learn more about Art Scholl, the full-scale
aerobatic pilot of the Super Chipmunk in our
tablet edition or go online to watch a fl ight
video!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/11
Page Numbers: 46,47,48,49,50
Several years ago, my father built the Carl Goldberg Chipmunk 400 and offered me the maiden flight. The aircraft was attractive in Art Scholl’s colors and was a nice-flying, park-size, electric-powered model. When I found out that Great Planes was releasing the aircraft as part of its Carl Goldberg Classics series, I was excited for the opportunity to again wiggle the sticks.
Now called the Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk EP, the model has traded in its motorstick for a motor box to accommodate more modern outrunner motors. It received several other improvements to enhance the assembly and flight experience.
The Super Chipmunk is easy to see in the air with its
attractive color scheme. It has aerobatic, yet forgiving,
flight characteristics.
Construction
I was immediately impressed with the covering when I examined the model. Not
only was the MonoKote wrinkle free, but Art Scholl’s intricate red, white, and blue
scheme was masterfully recreated.
I did fi nd a 1-inch crack in the canopy on the right side behind the clear portion.
I used a small amount of odorless CA on the inside to repair it and ensure the crack
did not get any larger.
The wing was fi rst up in the assembly of the Chipmunk. After the CA hinges were
glued in, it was time to mount the servos. The Futaba 3114 servos dropped right in
and the predrilled mounting holes aligned perfectly.
The manual recommends using a 6-inch servo extension for each aileron servo and
utilizing heat shrink or clips to secure the plugs and keep them connected. Be careful
when feeding the servo wires through the wing that the clip or plug does not poke
into the top of the wing covering. There is not much clearance to feed it through the
servo opening. A preattached string in each wing half helps with this process.
The aileron pushrods come with a “V” bend in them to allow for adjustment. Mine
were slightly long and I tightened the “V” to shorten the pushrod. The adjustments
were easily made using two pairs of pliers.
After the wing was glued together with epoxy, it was time to mount the landing
gear. The landing gear wires are secured to the wing with nylon straps.
Installing the wheel pants required the hole to be chamfered slightly so that the
landing gear wire would fi t all the way into the leg. I found that a 3/32 drill bit, turned
by hand, was nearly perfect for this.
Moving on to the fuselage, I discovered that the exit holes for the rudder and
elevator are opposite of what is shown in the manual. The manual also instructs the
builder to drill a 1/16-inch hole in the elevator’s LE for the joiner wire; mine already
had the holes predrilled. When it came time to attach the horizontal stabilizer, the
fuselage required a light sanding to get the stabilizer to line up with the wing.
After attaching the vertical stabilizer, I inserted the tail wheel gear wire into the
bottom of the fuselage and into the rudder. Although the slot was in the rudder for
the wire, I needed to drill the hole to insert the wire into the rudder. Before you drill
the hole, be sure that the white plastic washer and collar are against the bottom of
the fuselage.
Here’s what you’ll nd
when you open the box. The
covering was excellent and
required little work with the
covering iron.
Above: This look inside the fuselage shows
where everything is mounted. A Velcro strap
and hook-and-loop material are used to keep
the battery in place during flight.
The aileron
pushrods come
with a “V” bend
in them to allow
for adjustment.
The control horn
was colored with
a Sharpie a er it
was installed.
After mounting
the elevator and
rudder servos into
the plywood servo
tray, I referenced
the photo in
the manual to
determine the
correct location
to attach the
servo tray inside
the fuselage, and
I found that the
inside of the
fuselage in the
manual differed
slightly from my
model. Although
it was a tight fit, I
was able to mount
the tray in roughly
the same location.
I encountered a
minor issue with the screw-lock connectors for the rudder and
elevator. They were not drilled all the way through, preventing
the pushrods from passing through them. Rather than drill
them out, I replaced them with Du-Bro Mini E/Z connectors.
Included in the kit is a dorsal fin that attached to the top of
the fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer’s LE to enhance the
scale appearance. The manual explains the process of removing
a strip of covering 53/4 inches long and 1/16-inch wide, but I
opted to glue it directly to the covering using epoxy. I did not
want to risk cutting into the fuselage when trying to remove
the covering.
Before mounting the cowl, the builder must cut an air inlet
hole into the bottom for additional cooling. Using a fine-point
Sharpie, I drew the hole to match what was shown in the
manual and used my Dremel tool to open it up. I also found
that the hole in the cowl for the propeller shaft required
a little work with the Dremel to keep the propeller shaft
adapter from rubbing.
Applying the included decals was one
of the last steps needed to complete the model. Although they
were of good quality and easy to attach, the decals seemed
to be a combination of those used on both of Art’s aircraft
and not one specifically. The Pennzoil Super Chipmunk decal
should be on the cowl, not the fuselage as pictured on the box!
The recommended CG is 21/2 inches back from the wing’s
LE at the fuselage sides with the model inverted. I was able to
get the model to balance without any added weight by moving
the battery forward on the battery tray. My finished model
came in at 22 ounces, which is 1 to 3 ounces lighter than the
listed weight range.
The manual provides high and low rates for throws on the
ailerons, elevator, and rudder. I have settled on the following
rates to allow for scalelike flight characteristics and aerobatic
capability: elevator 3/8 inch up and down; ailerons 5/16 inch up
and down; rudder 1 inch right and left.
Art Scholl’s Super Chipmunk is on display
at the Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia
Art Scholl was a famed aerobatic pilot from the 1950s to the
mid-1980s who was well known for flying the brightly colored
red, white, and blue Super Chipmunk. He was also known for
performing with his dog, Aileron, who cheerfully accompanied
him inside the cockpit. In 1974, Art won the US National
Aerobatic Championship in a Pitts S-2A.
Art also worked as a pilot and camera man for television and
movies. On September 16, 1985, he was killed while flying a Pitts
Special for the movie, Top Gun.
In his honor, each year the International Council of Air
Shows presents the Art Scholl Showmanship Award to the air
show act or performer which best exemplifies the qualities of
showmanship demonstrated by Art Scholl.
Both of Art’s famous Super Chipmunk aircraft are currently on
display. One resides at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum’s
Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia, and the other at the EAA
Museum in Oshkosh, Wisconsin.
The Rimfire 400 brushless outrunner is easily
mounted to the motor box and is a perfect
match for this aircraft. The ESC is mounted to
the bottom of the small tray behind the motor
right in the airflow.
The tail wheel wire is inserted into the rudder
when it is attached, providing a steerable tail
wheel.
The Futaba S3114 servos for rudder and elevator
are mounted to the plywood servo tray and then
it is installed inside the fuselage.
Flying
Because I had fl own the earlier
version of the Chipmunk, I knew I was
in for a treat and sure enough, the newand-
improved Super Chipmunk did
not disappoint me. The model requires
only slight rudder input to keep it
tracking straight down the paved
runway and is capable of becoming
SPECIFICATIONS
Model type: Semiscale ARF
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 38 inches
Wing area: 242 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 23 to 25 ounces
Power system: 400-size brushless outrunner,
25-amp ESC
Radio: Four channel with four
microservos
Construction: Balsa and light plywood
Covering/fi nish: Iron-on covering with decals
Street price: $129.99
TEST-MODEL DETAILS
Motor used: Rimfi re 400
Battery: Flightpower 3S 1200 mAh 30C
Propeller: ElectriFly PowerFlow 8 x 6
Slo-Flyer
Radio system: Futaba 8FG radio, Futaba
R617FS receiver, four Futaba
S3114 microservos, two
6-inch servo extensions
Ready-to-fl y
weight: 22 ounces
Flight duration: 8 to 10 minutes
Amps: 13.57
Watts: 158.6
PLUSES
• Covering was well done and required little
attention
• Provisions made for easy installation of a
pilot fi gure (not included)
• Sturdy, lightweight construction
• Recommended equipment a good match for
the aircraft
• Excellent-fl ying model
MINUSES
• Decals are a combination of two Super
Chipmunks fl own by Art Scholl
• Canopy was cracked
• Screw-lock connectors not drilled through
AT A GLANCE ...
airborne at roughly half throttle.
A mid-range throttle provides nice,
stable fl ight, and full throttle allows for
lively aerobatics.
The motor/propeller combination for
the Chipmunk is perfect. It provides
enough power for air show-style
aerobatics and decent fl ight times. A
vertical upline from a full throttle pass
will yield two rolls until the Chipmunk
runs out of steam and momentarily
hangs on the propeller. Adding a stall
turn or Hammerhead at the end makes
for a realistic air show performance.
Rolls require a bump of elevator to
keep them crisp, and loops are a thing
of beauty. Loop-roll combinations such
as Immelmann turns and Half Cuban
8s are easily fl own and look crisp. Knifeedge
fl ight requires full power and full
rudder to hold it, and the Chipmunk
pulls slightly toward the canopy.
Inverted fl ight is easy to maintain with
slight down-elevator.
Thanks to its lightweight construction,
my 22-ounce model is a real fl oater. It is
forgiving in fl ight and during stall testing,
the wings rock slightly and then the nose
drops for an easy recovery. On repeated
attempts, it never dropped a wing.
Landings are a breeze. I like to align
the model on fi nal and slowly reduce the
power and fl air to a beautiful landing.
Don’t hold too much back pressure
when the Chipmunk touches down
or it will be airborne again. Although I
haven’t tried it, a gliding approach to
landing might also be possible.
When the Chipmunk is on the
blacktop, the steerable tail wheel
provides plenty of control to taxi the
model back to the fl ight station or pit
area.
Conclusion
The Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk
EP ARF is a beautiful aircraft. The
covering on the one I received was
excellent and a faithful reproduction
of the famous aircraft. While the
decals aren’t a perfect match to Art
Scholl’s aircraft, they provide for a nice
semiscale park fl yer that will grab your
attention with its good looks and then
win you over with its satisfying fl ight
characteristics.
The Super Chipmunk is perfect for
pilots looking to put on a park fl yer-size
air show and its colorful scheme is easy
to see in the air.
—Jay Smith
[email protected]
MANUFACTURER/DISTRIBUTOR:
Hobbico
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660
www.greatplanes.com
SOURCES:
ElectriFly
(800) 682-8948
www.electrifl y.com
Futaba
(800) 682-8948
www.futaba-rc.com
FlightPower
(800) 637-7660
www.fl ightpowerusa.com
Photos by the author
MA Digital Extras!
Learn more about Art Scholl, the full-scale
aerobatic pilot of the Super Chipmunk in our
tablet edition or go online to watch a fl ight
video!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/11
Page Numbers: 46,47,48,49,50
Several years ago, my father built the Carl Goldberg Chipmunk 400 and offered me the maiden flight. The aircraft was attractive in Art Scholl’s colors and was a nice-flying, park-size, electric-powered model. When I found out that Great Planes was releasing the aircraft as part of its Carl Goldberg Classics series, I was excited for the opportunity to again wiggle the sticks.
Now called the Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk EP, the model has traded in its motorstick for a motor box to accommodate more modern outrunner motors. It received several other improvements to enhance the assembly and flight experience.
The Super Chipmunk is easy to see in the air with its
attractive color scheme. It has aerobatic, yet forgiving,
flight characteristics.
Construction
I was immediately impressed with the covering when I examined the model. Not
only was the MonoKote wrinkle free, but Art Scholl’s intricate red, white, and blue
scheme was masterfully recreated.
I did fi nd a 1-inch crack in the canopy on the right side behind the clear portion.
I used a small amount of odorless CA on the inside to repair it and ensure the crack
did not get any larger.
The wing was fi rst up in the assembly of the Chipmunk. After the CA hinges were
glued in, it was time to mount the servos. The Futaba 3114 servos dropped right in
and the predrilled mounting holes aligned perfectly.
The manual recommends using a 6-inch servo extension for each aileron servo and
utilizing heat shrink or clips to secure the plugs and keep them connected. Be careful
when feeding the servo wires through the wing that the clip or plug does not poke
into the top of the wing covering. There is not much clearance to feed it through the
servo opening. A preattached string in each wing half helps with this process.
The aileron pushrods come with a “V” bend in them to allow for adjustment. Mine
were slightly long and I tightened the “V” to shorten the pushrod. The adjustments
were easily made using two pairs of pliers.
After the wing was glued together with epoxy, it was time to mount the landing
gear. The landing gear wires are secured to the wing with nylon straps.
Installing the wheel pants required the hole to be chamfered slightly so that the
landing gear wire would fi t all the way into the leg. I found that a 3/32 drill bit, turned
by hand, was nearly perfect for this.
Moving on to the fuselage, I discovered that the exit holes for the rudder and
elevator are opposite of what is shown in the manual. The manual also instructs the
builder to drill a 1/16-inch hole in the elevator’s LE for the joiner wire; mine already
had the holes predrilled. When it came time to attach the horizontal stabilizer, the
fuselage required a light sanding to get the stabilizer to line up with the wing.
After attaching the vertical stabilizer, I inserted the tail wheel gear wire into the
bottom of the fuselage and into the rudder. Although the slot was in the rudder for
the wire, I needed to drill the hole to insert the wire into the rudder. Before you drill
the hole, be sure that the white plastic washer and collar are against the bottom of
the fuselage.
Here’s what you’ll nd
when you open the box. The
covering was excellent and
required little work with the
covering iron.
Above: This look inside the fuselage shows
where everything is mounted. A Velcro strap
and hook-and-loop material are used to keep
the battery in place during flight.
The aileron
pushrods come
with a “V” bend
in them to allow
for adjustment.
The control horn
was colored with
a Sharpie a er it
was installed.
After mounting
the elevator and
rudder servos into
the plywood servo
tray, I referenced
the photo in
the manual to
determine the
correct location
to attach the
servo tray inside
the fuselage, and
I found that the
inside of the
fuselage in the
manual differed
slightly from my
model. Although
it was a tight fit, I
was able to mount
the tray in roughly
the same location.
I encountered a
minor issue with the screw-lock connectors for the rudder and
elevator. They were not drilled all the way through, preventing
the pushrods from passing through them. Rather than drill
them out, I replaced them with Du-Bro Mini E/Z connectors.
Included in the kit is a dorsal fin that attached to the top of
the fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer’s LE to enhance the
scale appearance. The manual explains the process of removing
a strip of covering 53/4 inches long and 1/16-inch wide, but I
opted to glue it directly to the covering using epoxy. I did not
want to risk cutting into the fuselage when trying to remove
the covering.
Before mounting the cowl, the builder must cut an air inlet
hole into the bottom for additional cooling. Using a fine-point
Sharpie, I drew the hole to match what was shown in the
manual and used my Dremel tool to open it up. I also found
that the hole in the cowl for the propeller shaft required
a little work with the Dremel to keep the propeller shaft
adapter from rubbing.
Applying the included decals was one
of the last steps needed to complete the model. Although they
were of good quality and easy to attach, the decals seemed
to be a combination of those used on both of Art’s aircraft
and not one specifically. The Pennzoil Super Chipmunk decal
should be on the cowl, not the fuselage as pictured on the box!
The recommended CG is 21/2 inches back from the wing’s
LE at the fuselage sides with the model inverted. I was able to
get the model to balance without any added weight by moving
the battery forward on the battery tray. My finished model
came in at 22 ounces, which is 1 to 3 ounces lighter than the
listed weight range.
The manual provides high and low rates for throws on the
ailerons, elevator, and rudder. I have settled on the following
rates to allow for scalelike flight characteristics and aerobatic
capability: elevator 3/8 inch up and down; ailerons 5/16 inch up
and down; rudder 1 inch right and left.
Art Scholl’s Super Chipmunk is on display
at the Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia
Art Scholl was a famed aerobatic pilot from the 1950s to the
mid-1980s who was well known for flying the brightly colored
red, white, and blue Super Chipmunk. He was also known for
performing with his dog, Aileron, who cheerfully accompanied
him inside the cockpit. In 1974, Art won the US National
Aerobatic Championship in a Pitts S-2A.
Art also worked as a pilot and camera man for television and
movies. On September 16, 1985, he was killed while flying a Pitts
Special for the movie, Top Gun.
In his honor, each year the International Council of Air
Shows presents the Art Scholl Showmanship Award to the air
show act or performer which best exemplifies the qualities of
showmanship demonstrated by Art Scholl.
Both of Art’s famous Super Chipmunk aircraft are currently on
display. One resides at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum’s
Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia, and the other at the EAA
Museum in Oshkosh, Wisconsin.
The Rimfire 400 brushless outrunner is easily
mounted to the motor box and is a perfect
match for this aircraft. The ESC is mounted to
the bottom of the small tray behind the motor
right in the airflow.
The tail wheel wire is inserted into the rudder
when it is attached, providing a steerable tail
wheel.
The Futaba S3114 servos for rudder and elevator
are mounted to the plywood servo tray and then
it is installed inside the fuselage.
Flying
Because I had fl own the earlier
version of the Chipmunk, I knew I was
in for a treat and sure enough, the newand-
improved Super Chipmunk did
not disappoint me. The model requires
only slight rudder input to keep it
tracking straight down the paved
runway and is capable of becoming
SPECIFICATIONS
Model type: Semiscale ARF
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 38 inches
Wing area: 242 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 23 to 25 ounces
Power system: 400-size brushless outrunner,
25-amp ESC
Radio: Four channel with four
microservos
Construction: Balsa and light plywood
Covering/fi nish: Iron-on covering with decals
Street price: $129.99
TEST-MODEL DETAILS
Motor used: Rimfi re 400
Battery: Flightpower 3S 1200 mAh 30C
Propeller: ElectriFly PowerFlow 8 x 6
Slo-Flyer
Radio system: Futaba 8FG radio, Futaba
R617FS receiver, four Futaba
S3114 microservos, two
6-inch servo extensions
Ready-to-fl y
weight: 22 ounces
Flight duration: 8 to 10 minutes
Amps: 13.57
Watts: 158.6
PLUSES
• Covering was well done and required little
attention
• Provisions made for easy installation of a
pilot fi gure (not included)
• Sturdy, lightweight construction
• Recommended equipment a good match for
the aircraft
• Excellent-fl ying model
MINUSES
• Decals are a combination of two Super
Chipmunks fl own by Art Scholl
• Canopy was cracked
• Screw-lock connectors not drilled through
AT A GLANCE ...
airborne at roughly half throttle.
A mid-range throttle provides nice,
stable fl ight, and full throttle allows for
lively aerobatics.
The motor/propeller combination for
the Chipmunk is perfect. It provides
enough power for air show-style
aerobatics and decent fl ight times. A
vertical upline from a full throttle pass
will yield two rolls until the Chipmunk
runs out of steam and momentarily
hangs on the propeller. Adding a stall
turn or Hammerhead at the end makes
for a realistic air show performance.
Rolls require a bump of elevator to
keep them crisp, and loops are a thing
of beauty. Loop-roll combinations such
as Immelmann turns and Half Cuban
8s are easily fl own and look crisp. Knifeedge
fl ight requires full power and full
rudder to hold it, and the Chipmunk
pulls slightly toward the canopy.
Inverted fl ight is easy to maintain with
slight down-elevator.
Thanks to its lightweight construction,
my 22-ounce model is a real fl oater. It is
forgiving in fl ight and during stall testing,
the wings rock slightly and then the nose
drops for an easy recovery. On repeated
attempts, it never dropped a wing.
Landings are a breeze. I like to align
the model on fi nal and slowly reduce the
power and fl air to a beautiful landing.
Don’t hold too much back pressure
when the Chipmunk touches down
or it will be airborne again. Although I
haven’t tried it, a gliding approach to
landing might also be possible.
When the Chipmunk is on the
blacktop, the steerable tail wheel
provides plenty of control to taxi the
model back to the fl ight station or pit
area.
Conclusion
The Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk
EP ARF is a beautiful aircraft. The
covering on the one I received was
excellent and a faithful reproduction
of the famous aircraft. While the
decals aren’t a perfect match to Art
Scholl’s aircraft, they provide for a nice
semiscale park fl yer that will grab your
attention with its good looks and then
win you over with its satisfying fl ight
characteristics.
The Super Chipmunk is perfect for
pilots looking to put on a park fl yer-size
air show and its colorful scheme is easy
to see in the air.
—Jay Smith
[email protected]
MANUFACTURER/DISTRIBUTOR:
Hobbico
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660
www.greatplanes.com
SOURCES:
ElectriFly
(800) 682-8948
www.electrifl y.com
Futaba
(800) 682-8948
www.futaba-rc.com
FlightPower
(800) 637-7660
www.fl ightpowerusa.com
Photos by the author
MA Digital Extras!
Learn more about Art Scholl, the full-scale
aerobatic pilot of the Super Chipmunk in our
tablet edition or go online to watch a fl ight
video!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/11
Page Numbers: 46,47,48,49,50
Several years ago, my father built the Carl Goldberg Chipmunk 400 and offered me the maiden flight. The aircraft was attractive in Art Scholl’s colors and was a nice-flying, park-size, electric-powered model. When I found out that Great Planes was releasing the aircraft as part of its Carl Goldberg Classics series, I was excited for the opportunity to again wiggle the sticks.
Now called the Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk EP, the model has traded in its motorstick for a motor box to accommodate more modern outrunner motors. It received several other improvements to enhance the assembly and flight experience.
The Super Chipmunk is easy to see in the air with its
attractive color scheme. It has aerobatic, yet forgiving,
flight characteristics.
Construction
I was immediately impressed with the covering when I examined the model. Not
only was the MonoKote wrinkle free, but Art Scholl’s intricate red, white, and blue
scheme was masterfully recreated.
I did fi nd a 1-inch crack in the canopy on the right side behind the clear portion.
I used a small amount of odorless CA on the inside to repair it and ensure the crack
did not get any larger.
The wing was fi rst up in the assembly of the Chipmunk. After the CA hinges were
glued in, it was time to mount the servos. The Futaba 3114 servos dropped right in
and the predrilled mounting holes aligned perfectly.
The manual recommends using a 6-inch servo extension for each aileron servo and
utilizing heat shrink or clips to secure the plugs and keep them connected. Be careful
when feeding the servo wires through the wing that the clip or plug does not poke
into the top of the wing covering. There is not much clearance to feed it through the
servo opening. A preattached string in each wing half helps with this process.
The aileron pushrods come with a “V” bend in them to allow for adjustment. Mine
were slightly long and I tightened the “V” to shorten the pushrod. The adjustments
were easily made using two pairs of pliers.
After the wing was glued together with epoxy, it was time to mount the landing
gear. The landing gear wires are secured to the wing with nylon straps.
Installing the wheel pants required the hole to be chamfered slightly so that the
landing gear wire would fi t all the way into the leg. I found that a 3/32 drill bit, turned
by hand, was nearly perfect for this.
Moving on to the fuselage, I discovered that the exit holes for the rudder and
elevator are opposite of what is shown in the manual. The manual also instructs the
builder to drill a 1/16-inch hole in the elevator’s LE for the joiner wire; mine already
had the holes predrilled. When it came time to attach the horizontal stabilizer, the
fuselage required a light sanding to get the stabilizer to line up with the wing.
After attaching the vertical stabilizer, I inserted the tail wheel gear wire into the
bottom of the fuselage and into the rudder. Although the slot was in the rudder for
the wire, I needed to drill the hole to insert the wire into the rudder. Before you drill
the hole, be sure that the white plastic washer and collar are against the bottom of
the fuselage.
Here’s what you’ll nd
when you open the box. The
covering was excellent and
required little work with the
covering iron.
Above: This look inside the fuselage shows
where everything is mounted. A Velcro strap
and hook-and-loop material are used to keep
the battery in place during flight.
The aileron
pushrods come
with a “V” bend
in them to allow
for adjustment.
The control horn
was colored with
a Sharpie a er it
was installed.
After mounting
the elevator and
rudder servos into
the plywood servo
tray, I referenced
the photo in
the manual to
determine the
correct location
to attach the
servo tray inside
the fuselage, and
I found that the
inside of the
fuselage in the
manual differed
slightly from my
model. Although
it was a tight fit, I
was able to mount
the tray in roughly
the same location.
I encountered a
minor issue with the screw-lock connectors for the rudder and
elevator. They were not drilled all the way through, preventing
the pushrods from passing through them. Rather than drill
them out, I replaced them with Du-Bro Mini E/Z connectors.
Included in the kit is a dorsal fin that attached to the top of
the fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer’s LE to enhance the
scale appearance. The manual explains the process of removing
a strip of covering 53/4 inches long and 1/16-inch wide, but I
opted to glue it directly to the covering using epoxy. I did not
want to risk cutting into the fuselage when trying to remove
the covering.
Before mounting the cowl, the builder must cut an air inlet
hole into the bottom for additional cooling. Using a fine-point
Sharpie, I drew the hole to match what was shown in the
manual and used my Dremel tool to open it up. I also found
that the hole in the cowl for the propeller shaft required
a little work with the Dremel to keep the propeller shaft
adapter from rubbing.
Applying the included decals was one
of the last steps needed to complete the model. Although they
were of good quality and easy to attach, the decals seemed
to be a combination of those used on both of Art’s aircraft
and not one specifically. The Pennzoil Super Chipmunk decal
should be on the cowl, not the fuselage as pictured on the box!
The recommended CG is 21/2 inches back from the wing’s
LE at the fuselage sides with the model inverted. I was able to
get the model to balance without any added weight by moving
the battery forward on the battery tray. My finished model
came in at 22 ounces, which is 1 to 3 ounces lighter than the
listed weight range.
The manual provides high and low rates for throws on the
ailerons, elevator, and rudder. I have settled on the following
rates to allow for scalelike flight characteristics and aerobatic
capability: elevator 3/8 inch up and down; ailerons 5/16 inch up
and down; rudder 1 inch right and left.
Art Scholl’s Super Chipmunk is on display
at the Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia
Art Scholl was a famed aerobatic pilot from the 1950s to the
mid-1980s who was well known for flying the brightly colored
red, white, and blue Super Chipmunk. He was also known for
performing with his dog, Aileron, who cheerfully accompanied
him inside the cockpit. In 1974, Art won the US National
Aerobatic Championship in a Pitts S-2A.
Art also worked as a pilot and camera man for television and
movies. On September 16, 1985, he was killed while flying a Pitts
Special for the movie, Top Gun.
In his honor, each year the International Council of Air
Shows presents the Art Scholl Showmanship Award to the air
show act or performer which best exemplifies the qualities of
showmanship demonstrated by Art Scholl.
Both of Art’s famous Super Chipmunk aircraft are currently on
display. One resides at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum’s
Steven Udvar-Hazy Center in Virginia, and the other at the EAA
Museum in Oshkosh, Wisconsin.
The Rimfire 400 brushless outrunner is easily
mounted to the motor box and is a perfect
match for this aircraft. The ESC is mounted to
the bottom of the small tray behind the motor
right in the airflow.
The tail wheel wire is inserted into the rudder
when it is attached, providing a steerable tail
wheel.
The Futaba S3114 servos for rudder and elevator
are mounted to the plywood servo tray and then
it is installed inside the fuselage.
Flying
Because I had fl own the earlier
version of the Chipmunk, I knew I was
in for a treat and sure enough, the newand-
improved Super Chipmunk did
not disappoint me. The model requires
only slight rudder input to keep it
tracking straight down the paved
runway and is capable of becoming
SPECIFICATIONS
Model type: Semiscale ARF
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 38 inches
Wing area: 242 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 23 to 25 ounces
Power system: 400-size brushless outrunner,
25-amp ESC
Radio: Four channel with four
microservos
Construction: Balsa and light plywood
Covering/fi nish: Iron-on covering with decals
Street price: $129.99
TEST-MODEL DETAILS
Motor used: Rimfi re 400
Battery: Flightpower 3S 1200 mAh 30C
Propeller: ElectriFly PowerFlow 8 x 6
Slo-Flyer
Radio system: Futaba 8FG radio, Futaba
R617FS receiver, four Futaba
S3114 microservos, two
6-inch servo extensions
Ready-to-fl y
weight: 22 ounces
Flight duration: 8 to 10 minutes
Amps: 13.57
Watts: 158.6
PLUSES
• Covering was well done and required little
attention
• Provisions made for easy installation of a
pilot fi gure (not included)
• Sturdy, lightweight construction
• Recommended equipment a good match for
the aircraft
• Excellent-fl ying model
MINUSES
• Decals are a combination of two Super
Chipmunks fl own by Art Scholl
• Canopy was cracked
• Screw-lock connectors not drilled through
AT A GLANCE ...
airborne at roughly half throttle.
A mid-range throttle provides nice,
stable fl ight, and full throttle allows for
lively aerobatics.
The motor/propeller combination for
the Chipmunk is perfect. It provides
enough power for air show-style
aerobatics and decent fl ight times. A
vertical upline from a full throttle pass
will yield two rolls until the Chipmunk
runs out of steam and momentarily
hangs on the propeller. Adding a stall
turn or Hammerhead at the end makes
for a realistic air show performance.
Rolls require a bump of elevator to
keep them crisp, and loops are a thing
of beauty. Loop-roll combinations such
as Immelmann turns and Half Cuban
8s are easily fl own and look crisp. Knifeedge
fl ight requires full power and full
rudder to hold it, and the Chipmunk
pulls slightly toward the canopy.
Inverted fl ight is easy to maintain with
slight down-elevator.
Thanks to its lightweight construction,
my 22-ounce model is a real fl oater. It is
forgiving in fl ight and during stall testing,
the wings rock slightly and then the nose
drops for an easy recovery. On repeated
attempts, it never dropped a wing.
Landings are a breeze. I like to align
the model on fi nal and slowly reduce the
power and fl air to a beautiful landing.
Don’t hold too much back pressure
when the Chipmunk touches down
or it will be airborne again. Although I
haven’t tried it, a gliding approach to
landing might also be possible.
When the Chipmunk is on the
blacktop, the steerable tail wheel
provides plenty of control to taxi the
model back to the fl ight station or pit
area.
Conclusion
The Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk
EP ARF is a beautiful aircraft. The
covering on the one I received was
excellent and a faithful reproduction
of the famous aircraft. While the
decals aren’t a perfect match to Art
Scholl’s aircraft, they provide for a nice
semiscale park fl yer that will grab your
attention with its good looks and then
win you over with its satisfying fl ight
characteristics.
The Super Chipmunk is perfect for
pilots looking to put on a park fl yer-size
air show and its colorful scheme is easy
to see in the air.
—Jay Smith
[email protected]
MANUFACTURER/DISTRIBUTOR:
Hobbico
Box 9021
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-7660
www.greatplanes.com
SOURCES:
ElectriFly
(800) 682-8948
www.electrifl y.com
Futaba
(800) 682-8948
www.futaba-rc.com
FlightPower
(800) 637-7660
www.fl ightpowerusa.com
Photos by the author
MA Digital Extras!
Learn more about Art Scholl, the full-scale
aerobatic pilot of the Super Chipmunk in our
tablet edition or go online to watch a fl ight
video!