Chester Special - 2003/10

Build this CL Scale replica and relive the golden days of air racing
October 2003 29
MANY YEARS AGO when the final bell
would ring and classes were dismissed, my
grade-school classmates and I would race as
fast as we could to the model-airplane-club
meeting at the nearby Settlement House.
This gave us a few precious extra moments
to spend building our models.
I can still remember three of the models I
completed while working in this group. One
was the little balsa-and-tissue, 16-inchwingspan
Comet Art Chester Racer kit. This
airplane became one of those “must-do-agood-
one-someday” favorites. It has some
tricky parts: the cowling louvers,
undercarriage fairings, and canopy. Only
recently have I felt competent enough or,
more important perhaps, ambitious enough
to tackle the Chester Special.
Art Chester and his new racer—the
Chester Special—emerged on the scene in
1932. The airplane’s racing career spanned
only five years before it was retired in 1937.
Art worked tirelessly to improve its
The golden days of air racing brought a certain grace and style to airplane design that is
still revered. The term “classic” certainly applies here.
■ Frank Beatty
From the front you can study the cowl air-inlet openings. The wheel-pant fairing shape is also visible in this view.
30 MODEL AVIATION
The fine points make all the difference, even on a seemingly
simple design. Note the wing fillets and rivet detailing.
A different color scheme is shown, and the louver detailing is
apparent. See the text for details. Nice pilot!
performance; through the years, almost all of the airplane’s
components were modified.
He made major changes to the fuselage length and the wing and
horizontal tail-surface planforms. He made numerous modifications
to the cowling, canopy, and streamlined fairings. In 1936, after a
major rebuild that included new fabric and a new color scheme, the
little racer was renamed the “Jeep.” Owing to Art’s efforts, its top
speed had been increased from 154 to 2531⁄2 mph.
Most good three-views of the Art Chester Racer try to include
information about as many of these modifications as possible. This
can be daunting to a serious model builder who wants to document
and construct an accurate competition model. Photographs are this
builder’s best friends because a good selection of photos can help
him or her sort through all of the confusing and sometimes
contradictory material.
My favorite version of the racer is painted green and cream, with
the prominent exposed oil cooler on the fuselage port side. W.F.
Kerka’s and J.H. Robinson’s wonderful three-views, which were
published in the November 1959 Aeromodeler, were the principal
references I used to design this model.
There are only two photos of this particular version in my
Type: CL Scale
Wingspan: 43 inches
Power: O.S. Max .40
Flying weight: 61⁄2 pounds
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Sig Koverall and Brodak butyrate dope
Photos courtesy of the author Graphic Design by Carla Kunz
reference library, but they did resolve some
contradictory marking details in these sets
of drawings. I found those photos in the
April 1996 Skyways and The Golden Age of
Air Racing, Volume 2. I obtained a color
photo, probably artist-tinted, from the
January 1935 Popular Aviation.
I am not sure that anyone can say with
certainty what shades of green and cream
were used on the full-scale airplane. I
selected Brodak Piper Cream and Forest
Green for this model because they
complement each other nicely and were
readily available.
I built the model to a scale of 21⁄2 inches
= 1 foot. The wingspan is 43 inches, and
the length is 38 inches. Power is an O.S.
.40. The model features a Roberts threewire
system to operate an engine throttle. I
corrected initial pitch-sensitive flight
characteristics by adding weight to the
model’s nose. It flies smoothly, can be set
up for good landing approaches, and has
good ground handling.
CONSTRUCTION
It is my practice to break a model
project into smaller subassemblies, which
are easier to handle and fabricate. They can
also be sanded and finished up through the
final primer coats, then set aside until final
assembly of all components.
Read through the entire construction
sequence. If you agree with the
methodology, follow it. No serious
problems are likely to occur if you follow
your favorite construction practices. After
all, there is more than one way to do things.
Wing: I constructed the wing on my board
of choice for structures such as this: a Paul
Guillow 1 x 14 x 48-inch balsa workboard,
which boasts a flat work surface and readily
accepts pins for holding structures firmly in
position.
Make the 1⁄8 plywood bellcrank
mounting platform. Bolt the bellcrank to
October 2003 31
The fuselage is fixture-built on a piece of aluminum tubing. The tubing is removed after
the fuselage has been assembled up to this point.
The wing is under construction. Notice the fixture feet to achieve the proper amount of
dihedral. Yes, it’s a builder’s project!
From this angle you can see the
aluminum tubing. The formers have holes
that are carefully cut to accept the tube.
the plate and check for freedom of
movement. When you’re satisfied, remove
the bellcrank from the plate and set these
parts aside.
Cut the 1⁄8 basswood spars. Cement nine
temporary rectangular 1⁄8 balsa shims to
each spar, and trim them to be parallel to
each spar’s top surface. Pin the plans and
waxed-paper overlay to the building board.
Carefully locate and pin the spars in place.
Epoxy the bellcrank mounting platform
between the spars.
Fit the ribs into the spars’ interlocking
slots and set them flush with the spar top
surfaces. Slip the four 1⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch-balsa
leading-edge (LE) pieces into the slotted rib
LEs. Shim and pin them firmly into
position.
Consider using trailing edges with a 1⁄32
plywood core. Knife-edged trailing edges
with this construction nicety are less
susceptible to dings. Tape together four
pieces of 1⁄8 x 3⁄4-inch balsa. Cut all notches,
then separate the parts. Cyanoacrylate-glue
(CyA) a 1⁄32 x 7⁄8-inch plywood piece
between each pair of these pieces. The
protruding plywood flange slides into slots
in the ends of the ribs. CyA all joints. Fit
and glue the aileron spars to the assembly.
Block-sand the entire structure before
you begin covering with sheet. Work from
the center-section out and sheet the LEs.
Sheet-cover the wing center-section, then
capstrip all ribs with 1⁄16 x 3⁄16-inch balsa
strips. The large cutout area in the wing
center-section is intended to leave the
cockpit area clear for super detailing.
Lift the wing assembly from the building
board. It is fairly flexible at this point. Trim
the temporary balsa shims from the spars.
Epoxy 2 ounces of lead weight into the
starboard wingtip. (See plans.) Make six 1⁄4-
inch sheet-balsa cradles (see plans sheet 2),
and pin them to the building board at rib
stations C, I, and P. Settle the wing
assembly into the cradles and pin them
securely.
Apply sheet covering and capstrips
primer coats using your favorite methods, then set them aside until
final assembly.
Stabilizer, Elevators, and Rudder: You can get strong, scalelike
fabric-covered tail surfaces by building them around an internal 1⁄64
plywood core. You can use a 3⁄8-inch-diameter Brad Point or
Forstner drill bit to drill desired lightening holes in the 1⁄64 plywood.
Those drill bits’ sharp, knifelike outer rims can cut perfect holes
without shredding or tearing the thin plywood.
Make your 1⁄64 plywood cores. Cement the balsa ribs and spars to
them. Soak 1⁄16 x 1⁄4-inch balsa strips in household ammonia, and
bind the wet strips around these structures. When dry, CyA the
laminations to these structures. Locate the control horn and epoxy it
to the elevators. Cut slots in the plywood for Robart hinges, and
reinforce the cutouts with balsa rectangles.
Carve and sand all parts to satisfaction. Cover with Sig Stix-It
and Sig Koverall. You can finish these parts all the way to the final
primer coats, then set them aside.
Undercarriage: Make a 1⁄8 plywood undercarriage mounting plate.
Bend up two 1⁄8-inch-diameter music-wire struts. Bind the struts to
the plate with thread and epoxy. Bind the strut free ends with soft
copper wire and solder. Solder 0.010 x 13⁄4-inch-diameter brass
disks to the axle. Cement formers 3A, 5A, and 7A to the mounting
plate, then plank the structure with 1⁄8 x 3⁄8-inch balsa strips.
Build up the wheel pants from two 3⁄4-inch-thick balsa blocks.
Tape two blocks together and drill three 1⁄8-inch-diameter holes for
alignment pins and the axle. Shove dowel alignment pins through
the holes and saw the pants to outline shape.
Separate the halves and hollow them with a Dremel Burr to suit
the wheels. Carve and sand the exterior of the pants to shape. Bind
and epoxy inboard pant halves to brass disks on undercarriage axles.
The strut fairings start at the wheel pants and work away from
them. Use various pieces of 3⁄16 sheet balsa in the axle area. Groove
and epoxy 3⁄16 sheet-balsa fairings to both sides of the struts. Roughcarve
the fairings to shape, then build up fillets or low spots with
Brodak Aeropoxy Lite as required. Dope the insides of the wheelpant
halves and wheel hubs to final finish and color.
Install wheels with washers and solder them to the axles. Trim
the axles to length. I like them to protrude through the wheel pants a
bit so that wheels, axles, and pants flex in unison. It reduces stresscrack
occurrences between the pants and pant fairings.
Sand the pants and fairings smooth. Cover them with 1⁄2-ounce
fiberglass. Finish them all the way to the final primer coats and set
them aside.
Cowling: Cut out C1, C2, and C3 bulkheads. Save the center
cutouts from C1 and C3; use those and three 1⁄8 plywood rectangles
The cowling is assembled on this simple plywood fixture. It
ensures accuracy and speeds assembly.
Formers, stringers have been attached to cowl fixture.
Cardboard templates are used to make accurate outer sheeting.
Wheel pants are carved from two pieces of 3⁄4 balsa that are tackglued
together. They are hollowed to save weight.
similar to the way you did it to the top surfaces in the preceding.
Notice that an area between ribs H and I is sheet-covered to
accommodate installation of the balsa strut fairings later.
Lift the wing from the building board. The structure is quite stiff.
This somewhat elaborate procedure has produced the straightest
wing I have ever built.
Cement 3⁄4-inch balsa tips to the framework. Construct the
aileron framework and temporarily tack-glue it to the wing. Carve
and sand the entire wing smooth. Drill and install brass-tubing
leadout guides in the port wingtip. Drill aileron spars for six 1⁄8-inchdiameter
dowel locator pins, and cut the ailerons separate from the
wing.
Bolt the bellcrank assembly, fitted with 3⁄64-inch-diameter
leadout wires, in place. Bend loops in the leadout-wire ends. Sand
the wing and aileron assembly to satisfaction, and cover it using Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall.
Fabricate large balsa strut fairings and epoxy them to the wing.
The wing and ailerons can be finished all the way through final
32 MODEL AVIATION
The model’s entire undercarriage assembly is made as a unit,
then it is epoxied into the fuselage structure.
The landing-gear fairing assembly is made from various sizes of
balsa sheet. It’s not as complex as it looks!
One more look at fuselage construction on aluminum tube. It’s
an easy but effective method worth remembering.
October 2003 33
(J1 and J3) to make a cowling assembly fixture. (See plans sheet 3.)
Use the fixture to assemble the original bulkheads (C1, C2, and C3) and
six 1⁄8 x 1⁄4-inch basswood stringers (C4 through C7) to align all parts
before applying CyA to all joints.
Make cardboard patterns and use them to cut out 1⁄32 plywood
cowling side panels. Lay out louver cutout patterns on each panel.
Notice that the louver layout is different on each side. Use a #11 XActo
knife to cut out all louvers, then CyA the panels to the cowling
formers.
CyA 3⁄32 x 1⁄4-inch basswood strips behind each louver opening. Use
an X-Acto knife, needle files, and sandpaper to carve and smooth each
opening. When you’re satisfied with the result, plank the cowl top and
bottom with 3⁄32 x 3⁄8-inch basswood strips.
Alternate methods of simulating louver details include making them
from fiberglass or using a metal die and stamping the louvers in soft
sheet metal. I am more comfortable working with wood, so I used that
medium.
The nose block is made from a basswood block. Cut the block to the
front, side, and top outline, and tack-glue it to the cowling. Shape and
fair it to blend into the cowling, leaving a little excess at the spinner
area for future fitting.
Cut the nose block free from the cowling, and use a Dremel Burr to
hollow it out to approximately 1⁄8-inch wall thickness except in the
areas where the cowl hold-down bolt will be. Drill or cut out all scale
cooling air holes and the propeller-shaft access hole. Lay out and drill
four 7⁄16-inch-diameter holes in the cowl’s lower starboard side for
dummy exhaust stacks. Set the cowl aside for final fitting to the
fuselage.
Fuselage: Obtain a piece of 3⁄4-inch-diameter, 30-inch-long Reynolds
aluminum tubing. Make a plug assembly (see plans details) and CyA it
into the tubing end. This plug end tab will slip into a slot in bulkhead 12
at the narrow fuselage tail end.
Cut out the 1⁄16 sheet-balsa fuselage crutch members and all
bulkheads. Cement 1⁄16 plywood doublers to the fuselage crutch
members. Mark centerlines on the crutch members and on all
bulkheads. Tabs on each bulkhead will interlock with corresponding
cutouts or slots in the side crutch members.
Carefully align and CyA interlocking bulkheads 3, 5, and 7 to the
fuselage crutch members. Slide the tubing guide through these
bulkheads, then slip remaining bulkheads 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 onto the
guide. With the guide properly located, pin and CyA these bulkheads to
the crutches. This should result in a straight fuselage crutch assembly.
Cement 1⁄2 x 1-inch balsa blocks to the firewall and crutch joint area.
(These will be partially carved away later to form scale cooling air
passageways.) Make the tailskid, and mount and CyA it to the crutch.
CyA a 1⁄64 plywood fin core to the fuselage. Fit rectangular balsa rib
blanks to the core. Form the laminated balsa fin outline, and CyA it to
the plywood core. Cement the various balsa fairing blocks and
basswood stringers to the fuselage sides and bottom. Cement cockpitarea
wing-saddle filler blocks to the fuselage sides. Shape and sand all
fairing blocks smooth.
Cut away portions of bulkheads 11 and 12 as necessary to test-fit the
horizontal tail surfaces. Slot bulkhead 7 (see plans) and test-fit the
wing. Make the elevator pushrod and set it aside for later installation.
Install and shape the 1⁄8 sheet balsa and balsa block on the turtledeck.
Carefully mark and cut away material for scale cooling air outlets on
the fuselage sides at the firewall. Inset 1⁄32 plywood panels with
appropriate cutouts flush with the balsa fairing blocks to close these
34 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—see page 191
October 2003 35
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38 MODEL AVIATION
cooling air outlets in a scalelike manner.
Make the 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch engine mount and
gusset assemblies with cowl hold-down blind
nuts installed. Temporarily fit the mounts in
the fuselage, drill and set the blind nuts, and
bolt the engine to the mounts. Install the
throttle crank and its mounting plate. Remove
the engine and mounts, and set them aside.
Epoxy the undercarriage assembly into the
fuselage. Tidy up the openings or gaps around
the gear with balsa scraps and Aeropoxy Lite.
With one piece, cover the fuselage with Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall, starting at the
bottom, working up the sides to the wing
cutout, and overlapping at the top of the
turtledeck.
Fit the wing and stabilizer to the fuselage,
check them for alignment, and epoxy them in
permanently. Install the elevators with the
pushrod and connect to the bellcrank. Epoxy
engine mount/gusset assemblies into the
fuselage.
Intall a balsa dummy-pilot support and
bulkheads 4 and 6, which are glued to the top
of the wing center-section planking. Plank the
fuselage top and cut the cockpit opening. Fit
and carve balsa fillets at the wing. Cover any
bare wood with fiberglass, silk, or Koverall—
your choice.
Before installing the canopy, finish the
cockpit interior and finish the top of the
fuselage with matte black. The scale
instrument panel shown on the plans is too
deep by 1⁄2 inch because of the dummy-pilot
support’s location. I compromised by using
the top half of the panel with three large
instruments in my model.
I worked according to Don Typond’s
excellent videotape How to Paint Pilot
Figures to paint the 21⁄2-inch scale Williams
Bros. pilot before I installed it in the cockpit.
Don’t forget to make and install the dummy
gas cap before you close the area.
Form the canopy from a carved-balsa
master mold and a 4-inch-deep forming box
with a 1⁄4 plywood cutout, as you may have
seen illustrated in magazine articles. Heat 1⁄16-
inch-thick Perspex acrylic sheet to 350° and
“pull” the canopy. Trim the canopy to fit and
cement it to the fuselage with Testors plastic
cement. Mark off the areas that will remain
clear, and create small fillets around the
canopy’s perimeter with Aeropoxy Lite.
Install the fuel tank and associated filler
pipes. Bolt the engine in place and fit the
throttle linkage. Install a remote glow-plug
connector; access to the remote glow plug is
through a large nonscale hole in the cowling
bottom.
Bolt the cowling in place and fair it to the
spinner if you haven’t already. Locate and
drill or cut out all needle valve, muffler, and
muffler-fastener access holes. Remove the
cowl and cover it with 1⁄2-ounce fiberglass.
Install details such as the protruding
louvers, dummy air scoop, and tailskid
fairing. Fabricate wing-lift struts from
basswood, check them for fit, and cover them
with fiberglass and primer.
Finishing: It is good practice to use one
brand of paint products throughout the
finishing process to reduce the possibility of
incompatible products causing cracks,
peeling, or other surface problems. I used
Brodak thinners, primer, and color dopes. I
thinned all primer, clear, and color dopes 50%
or more.
At this point all structures are complete,
with covering materials and some primer on
surfaces that will seem fairly smooth. The
model should be finished in a way that adds
minimum excess weight.
Spray silver dope over all surfaces. Any
rough spots that need attention will be
highlighted and will shine like a neon light.
Instead of adding unnecessary weight by
spraying additional coats on the entire model,
spot-spray and wet-or-dry sand alternate coats
of silver and filler on the rough areas that need
attention until the entire model has a smooth
base for color-coat applications.
Spray two to four coats of Piper Cream on
the appropriate areas. Mask as required and
spray two to four coats of Forest Green on the
fuselage, undercarriage, and struts. Mask
again as required and spray the black and gold
registration and racing numbers on the wing
and fuselage.
Various types of pens can be used to apply
surface detailing. Some are easy to smear, so
as you work, protect completed areas with a
light dusting of clear dope, then move on to
the next area.
I used a black TopFlite MonoKote Panel
Line Pen, a black Sanford Sharpie Permanent
Marker, and a Pilot Silver Marker. These pens
work best on smooth doped surfaces after the
areas have been rubbed lightly with talcum
powder.
Panel lines can be simulated with black
striping tape or black pens. Screw heads,
rivets, and other fasteners are simulated
with silver dots. I drew the canopy
ventilation openings with a black pen
because I feared that debris would be
trapped in the cockpit if these openings
were cut out.
Use a credit card held low at an oblique
angle to scrape off any ridges left by the
masking tape. Spray on roughly a half dozen
coats of clear dope. Sand the entire model
with increasingly finer grades of wet-or-dry
paper, finishing in the 600-1,200 range.
Complete the job with rubbing compound
and wax.
Propeller: Even the neatest Scale model
will look unfinished if it isn’t fitted with a
scale propeller. Glue together six 3⁄16 x 13⁄4 x
141⁄2-inch basswood blanks, drill them for
the propeller shaft, and saw them to outline
shape. I used a Prather Prop Pitch Gauge to
carve accurate blades. The propeller is too
40 MODEL AVIATION
thick to accommodate the propeller nut and
washer, so cut the hub area back to 1⁄2-inch
deep.
Paint the propeller with aluminumcolored
dope. Paint the back sides of the
blades matte black.
Final Assembly: Four dowels anchor the
left struts to the wing and fuselage. The
outboard strut ends are located with dowels
and predrilled holes in the wing-strut fairing
blocks. Two 1⁄16-inch-diameter dowels
anchor the strut at the fuselage longeron
line.
Short lengths of 7⁄16-inch-diameter brass
tubing are installed in the cowling dummy
exhaust-stack openings.
Sweat-solder lengths of soft brass wire
into each end of six pieces of 3⁄32-inchdiameter
brass tubing. Space and align the
tubing carefully, and sweat-solder a 5⁄16-
inch-wide brass strip at roughly the middle
of these pieces. Bend the soft wire at right
angles.
Drill holes in the fuselage dummy oilcooler
supports that will align with those 12
wires. Press the wires into the holes and
CyA them securely. Two pins through the
central brass strip will help secure this
assembly.
Install the rudder using Robart hinges
and epoxy. Offset the rudder approximately
1⁄4 inch. A dot of CyA to the hinge point will
lock the rudder in position.
You can form a small dummy air scoop
from sheet styrene the same way you made
the canopy. Trim the scoop to size and
cement it to the canopy starboard side.
Install the ailerons using 1⁄8-inchdiameter
birch dowels and epoxy. I like to
incorporate 1⁄16 inch of offset in each aileron
so that the model will roll away from the
pilot to maintain positive line tension.
Flying: Trying to start inverted engines that
are enclosed in cowlings that make it
difficult or impossible to choke the engines
gives me a fit. I modified an expandedpolystyrene-
foam ice cooler to provide a
cradle to support the Chester Special in an
inverted position.
After I start the engine, it is simple to
flip the model upright and get on with the
flight. This procedure takes the pressure off
when I’m trying to comply with that threeminute
time limit at a contest site.
Before test-flying the model, I checked it
for balance by suspending it by its wingtips
at a point in-line with the LE sheet covering
line. The model hung level, which indicated
that it verged on being tail-heavy.
Nevertheless, I flew the model that way.
The first flight proved pitch-sensitive and
was erratic. The airplane was difficult to fly
smoothly, and it was difficult to set up for a
satisfactory landing approach. I was happy
when I executed a safe landing after a few
laps.
The model’s nose hung down roughly 5°
after I epoxied 5 ounces of lead into the
cowling and installed a 2-ounce heavy brass
propeller nut. Subsequent flights were tame;
smooth touch-and-gos and landings became
routine.
I had been extremely pleased with the
true-to-scale cooling air openings and vents
that were incorporated into this model.
However, the engine was not getting enough
cooling, was running too hot, and was
plagued with unplanned engine stoppages.
I cut a 11⁄4 x 2-inch nonscale opening
into the cowling bottom. (See plans.)
Friends suggested that the propeller was
working the engine too hard, so I modified
the propeller to 11 inches in diameter with 5
inches of pitch. These measures solved the
engine-cooling problems.
To improve the model’s appearance I
replaced the large factory muffler with a
tongue-type muffler. I epoxied 2 ounces of
lead into the cowling to compensate for the
weight difference. The tongue-muffler idea
didn’t work out, and I reinstalled the
original muffler. The 2 ounces remained in
the cowling.
A nice-flying model became a very niceflying
model. This vividly illustrated how
balance can affect a model’s performance.
More than 60 years had elapsed between
construction of the two versions of the Art
Chester Racers that I built. They are two
models I will never forget. MA
Frank W. Beatty
2608 Pontoon Rd.
Granite City IL 62040
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Build this CL Scale replica and relive the golden days of air racing
October 2003 29
MANY YEARS AGO when the final bell
would ring and classes were dismissed, my
grade-school classmates and I would race as
fast as we could to the model-airplane-club
meeting at the nearby Settlement House.
This gave us a few precious extra moments
to spend building our models.
I can still remember three of the models I
completed while working in this group. One
was the little balsa-and-tissue, 16-inchwingspan
Comet Art Chester Racer kit. This
airplane became one of those “must-do-agood-
one-someday” favorites. It has some
tricky parts: the cowling louvers,
undercarriage fairings, and canopy. Only
recently have I felt competent enough or,
more important perhaps, ambitious enough
to tackle the Chester Special.
Art Chester and his new racer—the
Chester Special—emerged on the scene in
1932. The airplane’s racing career spanned
only five years before it was retired in 1937.
Art worked tirelessly to improve its
The golden days of air racing brought a certain grace and style to airplane design that is
still revered. The term “classic” certainly applies here.
■ Frank Beatty
From the front you can study the cowl air-inlet openings. The wheel-pant fairing shape is also visible in this view.
30 MODEL AVIATION
The fine points make all the difference, even on a seemingly
simple design. Note the wing fillets and rivet detailing.
A different color scheme is shown, and the louver detailing is
apparent. See the text for details. Nice pilot!
performance; through the years, almost all of the airplane’s
components were modified.
He made major changes to the fuselage length and the wing and
horizontal tail-surface planforms. He made numerous modifications
to the cowling, canopy, and streamlined fairings. In 1936, after a
major rebuild that included new fabric and a new color scheme, the
little racer was renamed the “Jeep.” Owing to Art’s efforts, its top
speed had been increased from 154 to 2531⁄2 mph.
Most good three-views of the Art Chester Racer try to include
information about as many of these modifications as possible. This
can be daunting to a serious model builder who wants to document
and construct an accurate competition model. Photographs are this
builder’s best friends because a good selection of photos can help
him or her sort through all of the confusing and sometimes
contradictory material.
My favorite version of the racer is painted green and cream, with
the prominent exposed oil cooler on the fuselage port side. W.F.
Kerka’s and J.H. Robinson’s wonderful three-views, which were
published in the November 1959 Aeromodeler, were the principal
references I used to design this model.
There are only two photos of this particular version in my
Type: CL Scale
Wingspan: 43 inches
Power: O.S. Max .40
Flying weight: 61⁄2 pounds
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Sig Koverall and Brodak butyrate dope
Photos courtesy of the author Graphic Design by Carla Kunz
reference library, but they did resolve some
contradictory marking details in these sets
of drawings. I found those photos in the
April 1996 Skyways and The Golden Age of
Air Racing, Volume 2. I obtained a color
photo, probably artist-tinted, from the
January 1935 Popular Aviation.
I am not sure that anyone can say with
certainty what shades of green and cream
were used on the full-scale airplane. I
selected Brodak Piper Cream and Forest
Green for this model because they
complement each other nicely and were
readily available.
I built the model to a scale of 21⁄2 inches
= 1 foot. The wingspan is 43 inches, and
the length is 38 inches. Power is an O.S.
.40. The model features a Roberts threewire
system to operate an engine throttle. I
corrected initial pitch-sensitive flight
characteristics by adding weight to the
model’s nose. It flies smoothly, can be set
up for good landing approaches, and has
good ground handling.
CONSTRUCTION
It is my practice to break a model
project into smaller subassemblies, which
are easier to handle and fabricate. They can
also be sanded and finished up through the
final primer coats, then set aside until final
assembly of all components.
Read through the entire construction
sequence. If you agree with the
methodology, follow it. No serious
problems are likely to occur if you follow
your favorite construction practices. After
all, there is more than one way to do things.
Wing: I constructed the wing on my board
of choice for structures such as this: a Paul
Guillow 1 x 14 x 48-inch balsa workboard,
which boasts a flat work surface and readily
accepts pins for holding structures firmly in
position.
Make the 1⁄8 plywood bellcrank
mounting platform. Bolt the bellcrank to
October 2003 31
The fuselage is fixture-built on a piece of aluminum tubing. The tubing is removed after
the fuselage has been assembled up to this point.
The wing is under construction. Notice the fixture feet to achieve the proper amount of
dihedral. Yes, it’s a builder’s project!
From this angle you can see the
aluminum tubing. The formers have holes
that are carefully cut to accept the tube.
the plate and check for freedom of
movement. When you’re satisfied, remove
the bellcrank from the plate and set these
parts aside.
Cut the 1⁄8 basswood spars. Cement nine
temporary rectangular 1⁄8 balsa shims to
each spar, and trim them to be parallel to
each spar’s top surface. Pin the plans and
waxed-paper overlay to the building board.
Carefully locate and pin the spars in place.
Epoxy the bellcrank mounting platform
between the spars.
Fit the ribs into the spars’ interlocking
slots and set them flush with the spar top
surfaces. Slip the four 1⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch-balsa
leading-edge (LE) pieces into the slotted rib
LEs. Shim and pin them firmly into
position.
Consider using trailing edges with a 1⁄32
plywood core. Knife-edged trailing edges
with this construction nicety are less
susceptible to dings. Tape together four
pieces of 1⁄8 x 3⁄4-inch balsa. Cut all notches,
then separate the parts. Cyanoacrylate-glue
(CyA) a 1⁄32 x 7⁄8-inch plywood piece
between each pair of these pieces. The
protruding plywood flange slides into slots
in the ends of the ribs. CyA all joints. Fit
and glue the aileron spars to the assembly.
Block-sand the entire structure before
you begin covering with sheet. Work from
the center-section out and sheet the LEs.
Sheet-cover the wing center-section, then
capstrip all ribs with 1⁄16 x 3⁄16-inch balsa
strips. The large cutout area in the wing
center-section is intended to leave the
cockpit area clear for super detailing.
Lift the wing assembly from the building
board. It is fairly flexible at this point. Trim
the temporary balsa shims from the spars.
Epoxy 2 ounces of lead weight into the
starboard wingtip. (See plans.) Make six 1⁄4-
inch sheet-balsa cradles (see plans sheet 2),
and pin them to the building board at rib
stations C, I, and P. Settle the wing
assembly into the cradles and pin them
securely.
Apply sheet covering and capstrips
primer coats using your favorite methods, then set them aside until
final assembly.
Stabilizer, Elevators, and Rudder: You can get strong, scalelike
fabric-covered tail surfaces by building them around an internal 1⁄64
plywood core. You can use a 3⁄8-inch-diameter Brad Point or
Forstner drill bit to drill desired lightening holes in the 1⁄64 plywood.
Those drill bits’ sharp, knifelike outer rims can cut perfect holes
without shredding or tearing the thin plywood.
Make your 1⁄64 plywood cores. Cement the balsa ribs and spars to
them. Soak 1⁄16 x 1⁄4-inch balsa strips in household ammonia, and
bind the wet strips around these structures. When dry, CyA the
laminations to these structures. Locate the control horn and epoxy it
to the elevators. Cut slots in the plywood for Robart hinges, and
reinforce the cutouts with balsa rectangles.
Carve and sand all parts to satisfaction. Cover with Sig Stix-It
and Sig Koverall. You can finish these parts all the way to the final
primer coats, then set them aside.
Undercarriage: Make a 1⁄8 plywood undercarriage mounting plate.
Bend up two 1⁄8-inch-diameter music-wire struts. Bind the struts to
the plate with thread and epoxy. Bind the strut free ends with soft
copper wire and solder. Solder 0.010 x 13⁄4-inch-diameter brass
disks to the axle. Cement formers 3A, 5A, and 7A to the mounting
plate, then plank the structure with 1⁄8 x 3⁄8-inch balsa strips.
Build up the wheel pants from two 3⁄4-inch-thick balsa blocks.
Tape two blocks together and drill three 1⁄8-inch-diameter holes for
alignment pins and the axle. Shove dowel alignment pins through
the holes and saw the pants to outline shape.
Separate the halves and hollow them with a Dremel Burr to suit
the wheels. Carve and sand the exterior of the pants to shape. Bind
and epoxy inboard pant halves to brass disks on undercarriage axles.
The strut fairings start at the wheel pants and work away from
them. Use various pieces of 3⁄16 sheet balsa in the axle area. Groove
and epoxy 3⁄16 sheet-balsa fairings to both sides of the struts. Roughcarve
the fairings to shape, then build up fillets or low spots with
Brodak Aeropoxy Lite as required. Dope the insides of the wheelpant
halves and wheel hubs to final finish and color.
Install wheels with washers and solder them to the axles. Trim
the axles to length. I like them to protrude through the wheel pants a
bit so that wheels, axles, and pants flex in unison. It reduces stresscrack
occurrences between the pants and pant fairings.
Sand the pants and fairings smooth. Cover them with 1⁄2-ounce
fiberglass. Finish them all the way to the final primer coats and set
them aside.
Cowling: Cut out C1, C2, and C3 bulkheads. Save the center
cutouts from C1 and C3; use those and three 1⁄8 plywood rectangles
The cowling is assembled on this simple plywood fixture. It
ensures accuracy and speeds assembly.
Formers, stringers have been attached to cowl fixture.
Cardboard templates are used to make accurate outer sheeting.
Wheel pants are carved from two pieces of 3⁄4 balsa that are tackglued
together. They are hollowed to save weight.
similar to the way you did it to the top surfaces in the preceding.
Notice that an area between ribs H and I is sheet-covered to
accommodate installation of the balsa strut fairings later.
Lift the wing from the building board. The structure is quite stiff.
This somewhat elaborate procedure has produced the straightest
wing I have ever built.
Cement 3⁄4-inch balsa tips to the framework. Construct the
aileron framework and temporarily tack-glue it to the wing. Carve
and sand the entire wing smooth. Drill and install brass-tubing
leadout guides in the port wingtip. Drill aileron spars for six 1⁄8-inchdiameter
dowel locator pins, and cut the ailerons separate from the
wing.
Bolt the bellcrank assembly, fitted with 3⁄64-inch-diameter
leadout wires, in place. Bend loops in the leadout-wire ends. Sand
the wing and aileron assembly to satisfaction, and cover it using Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall.
Fabricate large balsa strut fairings and epoxy them to the wing.
The wing and ailerons can be finished all the way through final
32 MODEL AVIATION
The model’s entire undercarriage assembly is made as a unit,
then it is epoxied into the fuselage structure.
The landing-gear fairing assembly is made from various sizes of
balsa sheet. It’s not as complex as it looks!
One more look at fuselage construction on aluminum tube. It’s
an easy but effective method worth remembering.
October 2003 33
(J1 and J3) to make a cowling assembly fixture. (See plans sheet 3.)
Use the fixture to assemble the original bulkheads (C1, C2, and C3) and
six 1⁄8 x 1⁄4-inch basswood stringers (C4 through C7) to align all parts
before applying CyA to all joints.
Make cardboard patterns and use them to cut out 1⁄32 plywood
cowling side panels. Lay out louver cutout patterns on each panel.
Notice that the louver layout is different on each side. Use a #11 XActo
knife to cut out all louvers, then CyA the panels to the cowling
formers.
CyA 3⁄32 x 1⁄4-inch basswood strips behind each louver opening. Use
an X-Acto knife, needle files, and sandpaper to carve and smooth each
opening. When you’re satisfied with the result, plank the cowl top and
bottom with 3⁄32 x 3⁄8-inch basswood strips.
Alternate methods of simulating louver details include making them
from fiberglass or using a metal die and stamping the louvers in soft
sheet metal. I am more comfortable working with wood, so I used that
medium.
The nose block is made from a basswood block. Cut the block to the
front, side, and top outline, and tack-glue it to the cowling. Shape and
fair it to blend into the cowling, leaving a little excess at the spinner
area for future fitting.
Cut the nose block free from the cowling, and use a Dremel Burr to
hollow it out to approximately 1⁄8-inch wall thickness except in the
areas where the cowl hold-down bolt will be. Drill or cut out all scale
cooling air holes and the propeller-shaft access hole. Lay out and drill
four 7⁄16-inch-diameter holes in the cowl’s lower starboard side for
dummy exhaust stacks. Set the cowl aside for final fitting to the
fuselage.
Fuselage: Obtain a piece of 3⁄4-inch-diameter, 30-inch-long Reynolds
aluminum tubing. Make a plug assembly (see plans details) and CyA it
into the tubing end. This plug end tab will slip into a slot in bulkhead 12
at the narrow fuselage tail end.
Cut out the 1⁄16 sheet-balsa fuselage crutch members and all
bulkheads. Cement 1⁄16 plywood doublers to the fuselage crutch
members. Mark centerlines on the crutch members and on all
bulkheads. Tabs on each bulkhead will interlock with corresponding
cutouts or slots in the side crutch members.
Carefully align and CyA interlocking bulkheads 3, 5, and 7 to the
fuselage crutch members. Slide the tubing guide through these
bulkheads, then slip remaining bulkheads 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 onto the
guide. With the guide properly located, pin and CyA these bulkheads to
the crutches. This should result in a straight fuselage crutch assembly.
Cement 1⁄2 x 1-inch balsa blocks to the firewall and crutch joint area.
(These will be partially carved away later to form scale cooling air
passageways.) Make the tailskid, and mount and CyA it to the crutch.
CyA a 1⁄64 plywood fin core to the fuselage. Fit rectangular balsa rib
blanks to the core. Form the laminated balsa fin outline, and CyA it to
the plywood core. Cement the various balsa fairing blocks and
basswood stringers to the fuselage sides and bottom. Cement cockpitarea
wing-saddle filler blocks to the fuselage sides. Shape and sand all
fairing blocks smooth.
Cut away portions of bulkheads 11 and 12 as necessary to test-fit the
horizontal tail surfaces. Slot bulkhead 7 (see plans) and test-fit the
wing. Make the elevator pushrod and set it aside for later installation.
Install and shape the 1⁄8 sheet balsa and balsa block on the turtledeck.
Carefully mark and cut away material for scale cooling air outlets on
the fuselage sides at the firewall. Inset 1⁄32 plywood panels with
appropriate cutouts flush with the balsa fairing blocks to close these
34 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—see page 191
October 2003 35
Why do so many pilots use Dynatron Starters? The Power? The Quality? Thirty years of experience?
Or is it because they want to start their engine without worrying about the starter?
So if you want to start your engine, get a S603 Dynatron. Life’s too short for less.
Quality.That’s the Gold Standard.That’s Sullivan.
S640
Optional
PowerPac
shown
TheDynatron.
PowerTool.
One North Haven Street, Baltimore,
Maryland 21224 USA.
www.sullivanproducts.com
The Dynatron is the most
powerful 2-1/2” model
engine starter made. Only
exceeded, in fact, by our
3” Double-Handled
Megatron. It’ll start about
anything up to 2.2 cubic
inches. It operates on 12V
or 24V. And it’s built to
last. Which is why you see
a lot of Made-in-the-USA
quality Sullivan Dynatrons
at flying fields, performing
every day.
38 MODEL AVIATION
cooling air outlets in a scalelike manner.
Make the 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch engine mount and
gusset assemblies with cowl hold-down blind
nuts installed. Temporarily fit the mounts in
the fuselage, drill and set the blind nuts, and
bolt the engine to the mounts. Install the
throttle crank and its mounting plate. Remove
the engine and mounts, and set them aside.
Epoxy the undercarriage assembly into the
fuselage. Tidy up the openings or gaps around
the gear with balsa scraps and Aeropoxy Lite.
With one piece, cover the fuselage with Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall, starting at the
bottom, working up the sides to the wing
cutout, and overlapping at the top of the
turtledeck.
Fit the wing and stabilizer to the fuselage,
check them for alignment, and epoxy them in
permanently. Install the elevators with the
pushrod and connect to the bellcrank. Epoxy
engine mount/gusset assemblies into the
fuselage.
Intall a balsa dummy-pilot support and
bulkheads 4 and 6, which are glued to the top
of the wing center-section planking. Plank the
fuselage top and cut the cockpit opening. Fit
and carve balsa fillets at the wing. Cover any
bare wood with fiberglass, silk, or Koverall—
your choice.
Before installing the canopy, finish the
cockpit interior and finish the top of the
fuselage with matte black. The scale
instrument panel shown on the plans is too
deep by 1⁄2 inch because of the dummy-pilot
support’s location. I compromised by using
the top half of the panel with three large
instruments in my model.
I worked according to Don Typond’s
excellent videotape How to Paint Pilot
Figures to paint the 21⁄2-inch scale Williams
Bros. pilot before I installed it in the cockpit.
Don’t forget to make and install the dummy
gas cap before you close the area.
Form the canopy from a carved-balsa
master mold and a 4-inch-deep forming box
with a 1⁄4 plywood cutout, as you may have
seen illustrated in magazine articles. Heat 1⁄16-
inch-thick Perspex acrylic sheet to 350° and
“pull” the canopy. Trim the canopy to fit and
cement it to the fuselage with Testors plastic
cement. Mark off the areas that will remain
clear, and create small fillets around the
canopy’s perimeter with Aeropoxy Lite.
Install the fuel tank and associated filler
pipes. Bolt the engine in place and fit the
throttle linkage. Install a remote glow-plug
connector; access to the remote glow plug is
through a large nonscale hole in the cowling
bottom.
Bolt the cowling in place and fair it to the
spinner if you haven’t already. Locate and
drill or cut out all needle valve, muffler, and
muffler-fastener access holes. Remove the
cowl and cover it with 1⁄2-ounce fiberglass.
Install details such as the protruding
louvers, dummy air scoop, and tailskid
fairing. Fabricate wing-lift struts from
basswood, check them for fit, and cover them
with fiberglass and primer.
Finishing: It is good practice to use one
brand of paint products throughout the
finishing process to reduce the possibility of
incompatible products causing cracks,
peeling, or other surface problems. I used
Brodak thinners, primer, and color dopes. I
thinned all primer, clear, and color dopes 50%
or more.
At this point all structures are complete,
with covering materials and some primer on
surfaces that will seem fairly smooth. The
model should be finished in a way that adds
minimum excess weight.
Spray silver dope over all surfaces. Any
rough spots that need attention will be
highlighted and will shine like a neon light.
Instead of adding unnecessary weight by
spraying additional coats on the entire model,
spot-spray and wet-or-dry sand alternate coats
of silver and filler on the rough areas that need
attention until the entire model has a smooth
base for color-coat applications.
Spray two to four coats of Piper Cream on
the appropriate areas. Mask as required and
spray two to four coats of Forest Green on the
fuselage, undercarriage, and struts. Mask
again as required and spray the black and gold
registration and racing numbers on the wing
and fuselage.
Various types of pens can be used to apply
surface detailing. Some are easy to smear, so
as you work, protect completed areas with a
light dusting of clear dope, then move on to
the next area.
I used a black TopFlite MonoKote Panel
Line Pen, a black Sanford Sharpie Permanent
Marker, and a Pilot Silver Marker. These pens
work best on smooth doped surfaces after the
areas have been rubbed lightly with talcum
powder.
Panel lines can be simulated with black
striping tape or black pens. Screw heads,
rivets, and other fasteners are simulated
with silver dots. I drew the canopy
ventilation openings with a black pen
because I feared that debris would be
trapped in the cockpit if these openings
were cut out.
Use a credit card held low at an oblique
angle to scrape off any ridges left by the
masking tape. Spray on roughly a half dozen
coats of clear dope. Sand the entire model
with increasingly finer grades of wet-or-dry
paper, finishing in the 600-1,200 range.
Complete the job with rubbing compound
and wax.
Propeller: Even the neatest Scale model
will look unfinished if it isn’t fitted with a
scale propeller. Glue together six 3⁄16 x 13⁄4 x
141⁄2-inch basswood blanks, drill them for
the propeller shaft, and saw them to outline
shape. I used a Prather Prop Pitch Gauge to
carve accurate blades. The propeller is too
40 MODEL AVIATION
thick to accommodate the propeller nut and
washer, so cut the hub area back to 1⁄2-inch
deep.
Paint the propeller with aluminumcolored
dope. Paint the back sides of the
blades matte black.
Final Assembly: Four dowels anchor the
left struts to the wing and fuselage. The
outboard strut ends are located with dowels
and predrilled holes in the wing-strut fairing
blocks. Two 1⁄16-inch-diameter dowels
anchor the strut at the fuselage longeron
line.
Short lengths of 7⁄16-inch-diameter brass
tubing are installed in the cowling dummy
exhaust-stack openings.
Sweat-solder lengths of soft brass wire
into each end of six pieces of 3⁄32-inchdiameter
brass tubing. Space and align the
tubing carefully, and sweat-solder a 5⁄16-
inch-wide brass strip at roughly the middle
of these pieces. Bend the soft wire at right
angles.
Drill holes in the fuselage dummy oilcooler
supports that will align with those 12
wires. Press the wires into the holes and
CyA them securely. Two pins through the
central brass strip will help secure this
assembly.
Install the rudder using Robart hinges
and epoxy. Offset the rudder approximately
1⁄4 inch. A dot of CyA to the hinge point will
lock the rudder in position.
You can form a small dummy air scoop
from sheet styrene the same way you made
the canopy. Trim the scoop to size and
cement it to the canopy starboard side.
Install the ailerons using 1⁄8-inchdiameter
birch dowels and epoxy. I like to
incorporate 1⁄16 inch of offset in each aileron
so that the model will roll away from the
pilot to maintain positive line tension.
Flying: Trying to start inverted engines that
are enclosed in cowlings that make it
difficult or impossible to choke the engines
gives me a fit. I modified an expandedpolystyrene-
foam ice cooler to provide a
cradle to support the Chester Special in an
inverted position.
After I start the engine, it is simple to
flip the model upright and get on with the
flight. This procedure takes the pressure off
when I’m trying to comply with that threeminute
time limit at a contest site.
Before test-flying the model, I checked it
for balance by suspending it by its wingtips
at a point in-line with the LE sheet covering
line. The model hung level, which indicated
that it verged on being tail-heavy.
Nevertheless, I flew the model that way.
The first flight proved pitch-sensitive and
was erratic. The airplane was difficult to fly
smoothly, and it was difficult to set up for a
satisfactory landing approach. I was happy
when I executed a safe landing after a few
laps.
The model’s nose hung down roughly 5°
after I epoxied 5 ounces of lead into the
cowling and installed a 2-ounce heavy brass
propeller nut. Subsequent flights were tame;
smooth touch-and-gos and landings became
routine.
I had been extremely pleased with the
true-to-scale cooling air openings and vents
that were incorporated into this model.
However, the engine was not getting enough
cooling, was running too hot, and was
plagued with unplanned engine stoppages.
I cut a 11⁄4 x 2-inch nonscale opening
into the cowling bottom. (See plans.)
Friends suggested that the propeller was
working the engine too hard, so I modified
the propeller to 11 inches in diameter with 5
inches of pitch. These measures solved the
engine-cooling problems.
To improve the model’s appearance I
replaced the large factory muffler with a
tongue-type muffler. I epoxied 2 ounces of
lead into the cowling to compensate for the
weight difference. The tongue-muffler idea
didn’t work out, and I reinstalled the
original muffler. The 2 ounces remained in
the cowling.
A nice-flying model became a very niceflying
model. This vividly illustrated how
balance can affect a model’s performance.
More than 60 years had elapsed between
construction of the two versions of the Art
Chester Racers that I built. They are two
models I will never forget. MA
Frank W. Beatty
2608 Pontoon Rd.
Granite City IL 62040
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Build this CL Scale replica and relive the golden days of air racing
October 2003 29
MANY YEARS AGO when the final bell
would ring and classes were dismissed, my
grade-school classmates and I would race as
fast as we could to the model-airplane-club
meeting at the nearby Settlement House.
This gave us a few precious extra moments
to spend building our models.
I can still remember three of the models I
completed while working in this group. One
was the little balsa-and-tissue, 16-inchwingspan
Comet Art Chester Racer kit. This
airplane became one of those “must-do-agood-
one-someday” favorites. It has some
tricky parts: the cowling louvers,
undercarriage fairings, and canopy. Only
recently have I felt competent enough or,
more important perhaps, ambitious enough
to tackle the Chester Special.
Art Chester and his new racer—the
Chester Special—emerged on the scene in
1932. The airplane’s racing career spanned
only five years before it was retired in 1937.
Art worked tirelessly to improve its
The golden days of air racing brought a certain grace and style to airplane design that is
still revered. The term “classic” certainly applies here.
■ Frank Beatty
From the front you can study the cowl air-inlet openings. The wheel-pant fairing shape is also visible in this view.
30 MODEL AVIATION
The fine points make all the difference, even on a seemingly
simple design. Note the wing fillets and rivet detailing.
A different color scheme is shown, and the louver detailing is
apparent. See the text for details. Nice pilot!
performance; through the years, almost all of the airplane’s
components were modified.
He made major changes to the fuselage length and the wing and
horizontal tail-surface planforms. He made numerous modifications
to the cowling, canopy, and streamlined fairings. In 1936, after a
major rebuild that included new fabric and a new color scheme, the
little racer was renamed the “Jeep.” Owing to Art’s efforts, its top
speed had been increased from 154 to 2531⁄2 mph.
Most good three-views of the Art Chester Racer try to include
information about as many of these modifications as possible. This
can be daunting to a serious model builder who wants to document
and construct an accurate competition model. Photographs are this
builder’s best friends because a good selection of photos can help
him or her sort through all of the confusing and sometimes
contradictory material.
My favorite version of the racer is painted green and cream, with
the prominent exposed oil cooler on the fuselage port side. W.F.
Kerka’s and J.H. Robinson’s wonderful three-views, which were
published in the November 1959 Aeromodeler, were the principal
references I used to design this model.
There are only two photos of this particular version in my
Type: CL Scale
Wingspan: 43 inches
Power: O.S. Max .40
Flying weight: 61⁄2 pounds
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Sig Koverall and Brodak butyrate dope
Photos courtesy of the author Graphic Design by Carla Kunz
reference library, but they did resolve some
contradictory marking details in these sets
of drawings. I found those photos in the
April 1996 Skyways and The Golden Age of
Air Racing, Volume 2. I obtained a color
photo, probably artist-tinted, from the
January 1935 Popular Aviation.
I am not sure that anyone can say with
certainty what shades of green and cream
were used on the full-scale airplane. I
selected Brodak Piper Cream and Forest
Green for this model because they
complement each other nicely and were
readily available.
I built the model to a scale of 21⁄2 inches
= 1 foot. The wingspan is 43 inches, and
the length is 38 inches. Power is an O.S.
.40. The model features a Roberts threewire
system to operate an engine throttle. I
corrected initial pitch-sensitive flight
characteristics by adding weight to the
model’s nose. It flies smoothly, can be set
up for good landing approaches, and has
good ground handling.
CONSTRUCTION
It is my practice to break a model
project into smaller subassemblies, which
are easier to handle and fabricate. They can
also be sanded and finished up through the
final primer coats, then set aside until final
assembly of all components.
Read through the entire construction
sequence. If you agree with the
methodology, follow it. No serious
problems are likely to occur if you follow
your favorite construction practices. After
all, there is more than one way to do things.
Wing: I constructed the wing on my board
of choice for structures such as this: a Paul
Guillow 1 x 14 x 48-inch balsa workboard,
which boasts a flat work surface and readily
accepts pins for holding structures firmly in
position.
Make the 1⁄8 plywood bellcrank
mounting platform. Bolt the bellcrank to
October 2003 31
The fuselage is fixture-built on a piece of aluminum tubing. The tubing is removed after
the fuselage has been assembled up to this point.
The wing is under construction. Notice the fixture feet to achieve the proper amount of
dihedral. Yes, it’s a builder’s project!
From this angle you can see the
aluminum tubing. The formers have holes
that are carefully cut to accept the tube.
the plate and check for freedom of
movement. When you’re satisfied, remove
the bellcrank from the plate and set these
parts aside.
Cut the 1⁄8 basswood spars. Cement nine
temporary rectangular 1⁄8 balsa shims to
each spar, and trim them to be parallel to
each spar’s top surface. Pin the plans and
waxed-paper overlay to the building board.
Carefully locate and pin the spars in place.
Epoxy the bellcrank mounting platform
between the spars.
Fit the ribs into the spars’ interlocking
slots and set them flush with the spar top
surfaces. Slip the four 1⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch-balsa
leading-edge (LE) pieces into the slotted rib
LEs. Shim and pin them firmly into
position.
Consider using trailing edges with a 1⁄32
plywood core. Knife-edged trailing edges
with this construction nicety are less
susceptible to dings. Tape together four
pieces of 1⁄8 x 3⁄4-inch balsa. Cut all notches,
then separate the parts. Cyanoacrylate-glue
(CyA) a 1⁄32 x 7⁄8-inch plywood piece
between each pair of these pieces. The
protruding plywood flange slides into slots
in the ends of the ribs. CyA all joints. Fit
and glue the aileron spars to the assembly.
Block-sand the entire structure before
you begin covering with sheet. Work from
the center-section out and sheet the LEs.
Sheet-cover the wing center-section, then
capstrip all ribs with 1⁄16 x 3⁄16-inch balsa
strips. The large cutout area in the wing
center-section is intended to leave the
cockpit area clear for super detailing.
Lift the wing assembly from the building
board. It is fairly flexible at this point. Trim
the temporary balsa shims from the spars.
Epoxy 2 ounces of lead weight into the
starboard wingtip. (See plans.) Make six 1⁄4-
inch sheet-balsa cradles (see plans sheet 2),
and pin them to the building board at rib
stations C, I, and P. Settle the wing
assembly into the cradles and pin them
securely.
Apply sheet covering and capstrips
primer coats using your favorite methods, then set them aside until
final assembly.
Stabilizer, Elevators, and Rudder: You can get strong, scalelike
fabric-covered tail surfaces by building them around an internal 1⁄64
plywood core. You can use a 3⁄8-inch-diameter Brad Point or
Forstner drill bit to drill desired lightening holes in the 1⁄64 plywood.
Those drill bits’ sharp, knifelike outer rims can cut perfect holes
without shredding or tearing the thin plywood.
Make your 1⁄64 plywood cores. Cement the balsa ribs and spars to
them. Soak 1⁄16 x 1⁄4-inch balsa strips in household ammonia, and
bind the wet strips around these structures. When dry, CyA the
laminations to these structures. Locate the control horn and epoxy it
to the elevators. Cut slots in the plywood for Robart hinges, and
reinforce the cutouts with balsa rectangles.
Carve and sand all parts to satisfaction. Cover with Sig Stix-It
and Sig Koverall. You can finish these parts all the way to the final
primer coats, then set them aside.
Undercarriage: Make a 1⁄8 plywood undercarriage mounting plate.
Bend up two 1⁄8-inch-diameter music-wire struts. Bind the struts to
the plate with thread and epoxy. Bind the strut free ends with soft
copper wire and solder. Solder 0.010 x 13⁄4-inch-diameter brass
disks to the axle. Cement formers 3A, 5A, and 7A to the mounting
plate, then plank the structure with 1⁄8 x 3⁄8-inch balsa strips.
Build up the wheel pants from two 3⁄4-inch-thick balsa blocks.
Tape two blocks together and drill three 1⁄8-inch-diameter holes for
alignment pins and the axle. Shove dowel alignment pins through
the holes and saw the pants to outline shape.
Separate the halves and hollow them with a Dremel Burr to suit
the wheels. Carve and sand the exterior of the pants to shape. Bind
and epoxy inboard pant halves to brass disks on undercarriage axles.
The strut fairings start at the wheel pants and work away from
them. Use various pieces of 3⁄16 sheet balsa in the axle area. Groove
and epoxy 3⁄16 sheet-balsa fairings to both sides of the struts. Roughcarve
the fairings to shape, then build up fillets or low spots with
Brodak Aeropoxy Lite as required. Dope the insides of the wheelpant
halves and wheel hubs to final finish and color.
Install wheels with washers and solder them to the axles. Trim
the axles to length. I like them to protrude through the wheel pants a
bit so that wheels, axles, and pants flex in unison. It reduces stresscrack
occurrences between the pants and pant fairings.
Sand the pants and fairings smooth. Cover them with 1⁄2-ounce
fiberglass. Finish them all the way to the final primer coats and set
them aside.
Cowling: Cut out C1, C2, and C3 bulkheads. Save the center
cutouts from C1 and C3; use those and three 1⁄8 plywood rectangles
The cowling is assembled on this simple plywood fixture. It
ensures accuracy and speeds assembly.
Formers, stringers have been attached to cowl fixture.
Cardboard templates are used to make accurate outer sheeting.
Wheel pants are carved from two pieces of 3⁄4 balsa that are tackglued
together. They are hollowed to save weight.
similar to the way you did it to the top surfaces in the preceding.
Notice that an area between ribs H and I is sheet-covered to
accommodate installation of the balsa strut fairings later.
Lift the wing from the building board. The structure is quite stiff.
This somewhat elaborate procedure has produced the straightest
wing I have ever built.
Cement 3⁄4-inch balsa tips to the framework. Construct the
aileron framework and temporarily tack-glue it to the wing. Carve
and sand the entire wing smooth. Drill and install brass-tubing
leadout guides in the port wingtip. Drill aileron spars for six 1⁄8-inchdiameter
dowel locator pins, and cut the ailerons separate from the
wing.
Bolt the bellcrank assembly, fitted with 3⁄64-inch-diameter
leadout wires, in place. Bend loops in the leadout-wire ends. Sand
the wing and aileron assembly to satisfaction, and cover it using Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall.
Fabricate large balsa strut fairings and epoxy them to the wing.
The wing and ailerons can be finished all the way through final
32 MODEL AVIATION
The model’s entire undercarriage assembly is made as a unit,
then it is epoxied into the fuselage structure.
The landing-gear fairing assembly is made from various sizes of
balsa sheet. It’s not as complex as it looks!
One more look at fuselage construction on aluminum tube. It’s
an easy but effective method worth remembering.
October 2003 33
(J1 and J3) to make a cowling assembly fixture. (See plans sheet 3.)
Use the fixture to assemble the original bulkheads (C1, C2, and C3) and
six 1⁄8 x 1⁄4-inch basswood stringers (C4 through C7) to align all parts
before applying CyA to all joints.
Make cardboard patterns and use them to cut out 1⁄32 plywood
cowling side panels. Lay out louver cutout patterns on each panel.
Notice that the louver layout is different on each side. Use a #11 XActo
knife to cut out all louvers, then CyA the panels to the cowling
formers.
CyA 3⁄32 x 1⁄4-inch basswood strips behind each louver opening. Use
an X-Acto knife, needle files, and sandpaper to carve and smooth each
opening. When you’re satisfied with the result, plank the cowl top and
bottom with 3⁄32 x 3⁄8-inch basswood strips.
Alternate methods of simulating louver details include making them
from fiberglass or using a metal die and stamping the louvers in soft
sheet metal. I am more comfortable working with wood, so I used that
medium.
The nose block is made from a basswood block. Cut the block to the
front, side, and top outline, and tack-glue it to the cowling. Shape and
fair it to blend into the cowling, leaving a little excess at the spinner
area for future fitting.
Cut the nose block free from the cowling, and use a Dremel Burr to
hollow it out to approximately 1⁄8-inch wall thickness except in the
areas where the cowl hold-down bolt will be. Drill or cut out all scale
cooling air holes and the propeller-shaft access hole. Lay out and drill
four 7⁄16-inch-diameter holes in the cowl’s lower starboard side for
dummy exhaust stacks. Set the cowl aside for final fitting to the
fuselage.
Fuselage: Obtain a piece of 3⁄4-inch-diameter, 30-inch-long Reynolds
aluminum tubing. Make a plug assembly (see plans details) and CyA it
into the tubing end. This plug end tab will slip into a slot in bulkhead 12
at the narrow fuselage tail end.
Cut out the 1⁄16 sheet-balsa fuselage crutch members and all
bulkheads. Cement 1⁄16 plywood doublers to the fuselage crutch
members. Mark centerlines on the crutch members and on all
bulkheads. Tabs on each bulkhead will interlock with corresponding
cutouts or slots in the side crutch members.
Carefully align and CyA interlocking bulkheads 3, 5, and 7 to the
fuselage crutch members. Slide the tubing guide through these
bulkheads, then slip remaining bulkheads 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 onto the
guide. With the guide properly located, pin and CyA these bulkheads to
the crutches. This should result in a straight fuselage crutch assembly.
Cement 1⁄2 x 1-inch balsa blocks to the firewall and crutch joint area.
(These will be partially carved away later to form scale cooling air
passageways.) Make the tailskid, and mount and CyA it to the crutch.
CyA a 1⁄64 plywood fin core to the fuselage. Fit rectangular balsa rib
blanks to the core. Form the laminated balsa fin outline, and CyA it to
the plywood core. Cement the various balsa fairing blocks and
basswood stringers to the fuselage sides and bottom. Cement cockpitarea
wing-saddle filler blocks to the fuselage sides. Shape and sand all
fairing blocks smooth.
Cut away portions of bulkheads 11 and 12 as necessary to test-fit the
horizontal tail surfaces. Slot bulkhead 7 (see plans) and test-fit the
wing. Make the elevator pushrod and set it aside for later installation.
Install and shape the 1⁄8 sheet balsa and balsa block on the turtledeck.
Carefully mark and cut away material for scale cooling air outlets on
the fuselage sides at the firewall. Inset 1⁄32 plywood panels with
appropriate cutouts flush with the balsa fairing blocks to close these
34 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—see page 191
October 2003 35
Why do so many pilots use Dynatron Starters? The Power? The Quality? Thirty years of experience?
Or is it because they want to start their engine without worrying about the starter?
So if you want to start your engine, get a S603 Dynatron. Life’s too short for less.
Quality.That’s the Gold Standard.That’s Sullivan.
S640
Optional
PowerPac
shown
TheDynatron.
PowerTool.
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Maryland 21224 USA.
www.sullivanproducts.com
The Dynatron is the most
powerful 2-1/2” model
engine starter made. Only
exceeded, in fact, by our
3” Double-Handled
Megatron. It’ll start about
anything up to 2.2 cubic
inches. It operates on 12V
or 24V. And it’s built to
last. Which is why you see
a lot of Made-in-the-USA
quality Sullivan Dynatrons
at flying fields, performing
every day.
38 MODEL AVIATION
cooling air outlets in a scalelike manner.
Make the 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch engine mount and
gusset assemblies with cowl hold-down blind
nuts installed. Temporarily fit the mounts in
the fuselage, drill and set the blind nuts, and
bolt the engine to the mounts. Install the
throttle crank and its mounting plate. Remove
the engine and mounts, and set them aside.
Epoxy the undercarriage assembly into the
fuselage. Tidy up the openings or gaps around
the gear with balsa scraps and Aeropoxy Lite.
With one piece, cover the fuselage with Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall, starting at the
bottom, working up the sides to the wing
cutout, and overlapping at the top of the
turtledeck.
Fit the wing and stabilizer to the fuselage,
check them for alignment, and epoxy them in
permanently. Install the elevators with the
pushrod and connect to the bellcrank. Epoxy
engine mount/gusset assemblies into the
fuselage.
Intall a balsa dummy-pilot support and
bulkheads 4 and 6, which are glued to the top
of the wing center-section planking. Plank the
fuselage top and cut the cockpit opening. Fit
and carve balsa fillets at the wing. Cover any
bare wood with fiberglass, silk, or Koverall—
your choice.
Before installing the canopy, finish the
cockpit interior and finish the top of the
fuselage with matte black. The scale
instrument panel shown on the plans is too
deep by 1⁄2 inch because of the dummy-pilot
support’s location. I compromised by using
the top half of the panel with three large
instruments in my model.
I worked according to Don Typond’s
excellent videotape How to Paint Pilot
Figures to paint the 21⁄2-inch scale Williams
Bros. pilot before I installed it in the cockpit.
Don’t forget to make and install the dummy
gas cap before you close the area.
Form the canopy from a carved-balsa
master mold and a 4-inch-deep forming box
with a 1⁄4 plywood cutout, as you may have
seen illustrated in magazine articles. Heat 1⁄16-
inch-thick Perspex acrylic sheet to 350° and
“pull” the canopy. Trim the canopy to fit and
cement it to the fuselage with Testors plastic
cement. Mark off the areas that will remain
clear, and create small fillets around the
canopy’s perimeter with Aeropoxy Lite.
Install the fuel tank and associated filler
pipes. Bolt the engine in place and fit the
throttle linkage. Install a remote glow-plug
connector; access to the remote glow plug is
through a large nonscale hole in the cowling
bottom.
Bolt the cowling in place and fair it to the
spinner if you haven’t already. Locate and
drill or cut out all needle valve, muffler, and
muffler-fastener access holes. Remove the
cowl and cover it with 1⁄2-ounce fiberglass.
Install details such as the protruding
louvers, dummy air scoop, and tailskid
fairing. Fabricate wing-lift struts from
basswood, check them for fit, and cover them
with fiberglass and primer.
Finishing: It is good practice to use one
brand of paint products throughout the
finishing process to reduce the possibility of
incompatible products causing cracks,
peeling, or other surface problems. I used
Brodak thinners, primer, and color dopes. I
thinned all primer, clear, and color dopes 50%
or more.
At this point all structures are complete,
with covering materials and some primer on
surfaces that will seem fairly smooth. The
model should be finished in a way that adds
minimum excess weight.
Spray silver dope over all surfaces. Any
rough spots that need attention will be
highlighted and will shine like a neon light.
Instead of adding unnecessary weight by
spraying additional coats on the entire model,
spot-spray and wet-or-dry sand alternate coats
of silver and filler on the rough areas that need
attention until the entire model has a smooth
base for color-coat applications.
Spray two to four coats of Piper Cream on
the appropriate areas. Mask as required and
spray two to four coats of Forest Green on the
fuselage, undercarriage, and struts. Mask
again as required and spray the black and gold
registration and racing numbers on the wing
and fuselage.
Various types of pens can be used to apply
surface detailing. Some are easy to smear, so
as you work, protect completed areas with a
light dusting of clear dope, then move on to
the next area.
I used a black TopFlite MonoKote Panel
Line Pen, a black Sanford Sharpie Permanent
Marker, and a Pilot Silver Marker. These pens
work best on smooth doped surfaces after the
areas have been rubbed lightly with talcum
powder.
Panel lines can be simulated with black
striping tape or black pens. Screw heads,
rivets, and other fasteners are simulated
with silver dots. I drew the canopy
ventilation openings with a black pen
because I feared that debris would be
trapped in the cockpit if these openings
were cut out.
Use a credit card held low at an oblique
angle to scrape off any ridges left by the
masking tape. Spray on roughly a half dozen
coats of clear dope. Sand the entire model
with increasingly finer grades of wet-or-dry
paper, finishing in the 600-1,200 range.
Complete the job with rubbing compound
and wax.
Propeller: Even the neatest Scale model
will look unfinished if it isn’t fitted with a
scale propeller. Glue together six 3⁄16 x 13⁄4 x
141⁄2-inch basswood blanks, drill them for
the propeller shaft, and saw them to outline
shape. I used a Prather Prop Pitch Gauge to
carve accurate blades. The propeller is too
40 MODEL AVIATION
thick to accommodate the propeller nut and
washer, so cut the hub area back to 1⁄2-inch
deep.
Paint the propeller with aluminumcolored
dope. Paint the back sides of the
blades matte black.
Final Assembly: Four dowels anchor the
left struts to the wing and fuselage. The
outboard strut ends are located with dowels
and predrilled holes in the wing-strut fairing
blocks. Two 1⁄16-inch-diameter dowels
anchor the strut at the fuselage longeron
line.
Short lengths of 7⁄16-inch-diameter brass
tubing are installed in the cowling dummy
exhaust-stack openings.
Sweat-solder lengths of soft brass wire
into each end of six pieces of 3⁄32-inchdiameter
brass tubing. Space and align the
tubing carefully, and sweat-solder a 5⁄16-
inch-wide brass strip at roughly the middle
of these pieces. Bend the soft wire at right
angles.
Drill holes in the fuselage dummy oilcooler
supports that will align with those 12
wires. Press the wires into the holes and
CyA them securely. Two pins through the
central brass strip will help secure this
assembly.
Install the rudder using Robart hinges
and epoxy. Offset the rudder approximately
1⁄4 inch. A dot of CyA to the hinge point will
lock the rudder in position.
You can form a small dummy air scoop
from sheet styrene the same way you made
the canopy. Trim the scoop to size and
cement it to the canopy starboard side.
Install the ailerons using 1⁄8-inchdiameter
birch dowels and epoxy. I like to
incorporate 1⁄16 inch of offset in each aileron
so that the model will roll away from the
pilot to maintain positive line tension.
Flying: Trying to start inverted engines that
are enclosed in cowlings that make it
difficult or impossible to choke the engines
gives me a fit. I modified an expandedpolystyrene-
foam ice cooler to provide a
cradle to support the Chester Special in an
inverted position.
After I start the engine, it is simple to
flip the model upright and get on with the
flight. This procedure takes the pressure off
when I’m trying to comply with that threeminute
time limit at a contest site.
Before test-flying the model, I checked it
for balance by suspending it by its wingtips
at a point in-line with the LE sheet covering
line. The model hung level, which indicated
that it verged on being tail-heavy.
Nevertheless, I flew the model that way.
The first flight proved pitch-sensitive and
was erratic. The airplane was difficult to fly
smoothly, and it was difficult to set up for a
satisfactory landing approach. I was happy
when I executed a safe landing after a few
laps.
The model’s nose hung down roughly 5°
after I epoxied 5 ounces of lead into the
cowling and installed a 2-ounce heavy brass
propeller nut. Subsequent flights were tame;
smooth touch-and-gos and landings became
routine.
I had been extremely pleased with the
true-to-scale cooling air openings and vents
that were incorporated into this model.
However, the engine was not getting enough
cooling, was running too hot, and was
plagued with unplanned engine stoppages.
I cut a 11⁄4 x 2-inch nonscale opening
into the cowling bottom. (See plans.)
Friends suggested that the propeller was
working the engine too hard, so I modified
the propeller to 11 inches in diameter with 5
inches of pitch. These measures solved the
engine-cooling problems.
To improve the model’s appearance I
replaced the large factory muffler with a
tongue-type muffler. I epoxied 2 ounces of
lead into the cowling to compensate for the
weight difference. The tongue-muffler idea
didn’t work out, and I reinstalled the
original muffler. The 2 ounces remained in
the cowling.
A nice-flying model became a very niceflying
model. This vividly illustrated how
balance can affect a model’s performance.
More than 60 years had elapsed between
construction of the two versions of the Art
Chester Racers that I built. They are two
models I will never forget. MA
Frank W. Beatty
2608 Pontoon Rd.
Granite City IL 62040
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Build this CL Scale replica and relive the golden days of air racing
October 2003 29
MANY YEARS AGO when the final bell
would ring and classes were dismissed, my
grade-school classmates and I would race as
fast as we could to the model-airplane-club
meeting at the nearby Settlement House.
This gave us a few precious extra moments
to spend building our models.
I can still remember three of the models I
completed while working in this group. One
was the little balsa-and-tissue, 16-inchwingspan
Comet Art Chester Racer kit. This
airplane became one of those “must-do-agood-
one-someday” favorites. It has some
tricky parts: the cowling louvers,
undercarriage fairings, and canopy. Only
recently have I felt competent enough or,
more important perhaps, ambitious enough
to tackle the Chester Special.
Art Chester and his new racer—the
Chester Special—emerged on the scene in
1932. The airplane’s racing career spanned
only five years before it was retired in 1937.
Art worked tirelessly to improve its
The golden days of air racing brought a certain grace and style to airplane design that is
still revered. The term “classic” certainly applies here.
■ Frank Beatty
From the front you can study the cowl air-inlet openings. The wheel-pant fairing shape is also visible in this view.
30 MODEL AVIATION
The fine points make all the difference, even on a seemingly
simple design. Note the wing fillets and rivet detailing.
A different color scheme is shown, and the louver detailing is
apparent. See the text for details. Nice pilot!
performance; through the years, almost all of the airplane’s
components were modified.
He made major changes to the fuselage length and the wing and
horizontal tail-surface planforms. He made numerous modifications
to the cowling, canopy, and streamlined fairings. In 1936, after a
major rebuild that included new fabric and a new color scheme, the
little racer was renamed the “Jeep.” Owing to Art’s efforts, its top
speed had been increased from 154 to 2531⁄2 mph.
Most good three-views of the Art Chester Racer try to include
information about as many of these modifications as possible. This
can be daunting to a serious model builder who wants to document
and construct an accurate competition model. Photographs are this
builder’s best friends because a good selection of photos can help
him or her sort through all of the confusing and sometimes
contradictory material.
My favorite version of the racer is painted green and cream, with
the prominent exposed oil cooler on the fuselage port side. W.F.
Kerka’s and J.H. Robinson’s wonderful three-views, which were
published in the November 1959 Aeromodeler, were the principal
references I used to design this model.
There are only two photos of this particular version in my
Type: CL Scale
Wingspan: 43 inches
Power: O.S. Max .40
Flying weight: 61⁄2 pounds
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Sig Koverall and Brodak butyrate dope
Photos courtesy of the author Graphic Design by Carla Kunz
reference library, but they did resolve some
contradictory marking details in these sets
of drawings. I found those photos in the
April 1996 Skyways and The Golden Age of
Air Racing, Volume 2. I obtained a color
photo, probably artist-tinted, from the
January 1935 Popular Aviation.
I am not sure that anyone can say with
certainty what shades of green and cream
were used on the full-scale airplane. I
selected Brodak Piper Cream and Forest
Green for this model because they
complement each other nicely and were
readily available.
I built the model to a scale of 21⁄2 inches
= 1 foot. The wingspan is 43 inches, and
the length is 38 inches. Power is an O.S.
.40. The model features a Roberts threewire
system to operate an engine throttle. I
corrected initial pitch-sensitive flight
characteristics by adding weight to the
model’s nose. It flies smoothly, can be set
up for good landing approaches, and has
good ground handling.
CONSTRUCTION
It is my practice to break a model
project into smaller subassemblies, which
are easier to handle and fabricate. They can
also be sanded and finished up through the
final primer coats, then set aside until final
assembly of all components.
Read through the entire construction
sequence. If you agree with the
methodology, follow it. No serious
problems are likely to occur if you follow
your favorite construction practices. After
all, there is more than one way to do things.
Wing: I constructed the wing on my board
of choice for structures such as this: a Paul
Guillow 1 x 14 x 48-inch balsa workboard,
which boasts a flat work surface and readily
accepts pins for holding structures firmly in
position.
Make the 1⁄8 plywood bellcrank
mounting platform. Bolt the bellcrank to
October 2003 31
The fuselage is fixture-built on a piece of aluminum tubing. The tubing is removed after
the fuselage has been assembled up to this point.
The wing is under construction. Notice the fixture feet to achieve the proper amount of
dihedral. Yes, it’s a builder’s project!
From this angle you can see the
aluminum tubing. The formers have holes
that are carefully cut to accept the tube.
the plate and check for freedom of
movement. When you’re satisfied, remove
the bellcrank from the plate and set these
parts aside.
Cut the 1⁄8 basswood spars. Cement nine
temporary rectangular 1⁄8 balsa shims to
each spar, and trim them to be parallel to
each spar’s top surface. Pin the plans and
waxed-paper overlay to the building board.
Carefully locate and pin the spars in place.
Epoxy the bellcrank mounting platform
between the spars.
Fit the ribs into the spars’ interlocking
slots and set them flush with the spar top
surfaces. Slip the four 1⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch-balsa
leading-edge (LE) pieces into the slotted rib
LEs. Shim and pin them firmly into
position.
Consider using trailing edges with a 1⁄32
plywood core. Knife-edged trailing edges
with this construction nicety are less
susceptible to dings. Tape together four
pieces of 1⁄8 x 3⁄4-inch balsa. Cut all notches,
then separate the parts. Cyanoacrylate-glue
(CyA) a 1⁄32 x 7⁄8-inch plywood piece
between each pair of these pieces. The
protruding plywood flange slides into slots
in the ends of the ribs. CyA all joints. Fit
and glue the aileron spars to the assembly.
Block-sand the entire structure before
you begin covering with sheet. Work from
the center-section out and sheet the LEs.
Sheet-cover the wing center-section, then
capstrip all ribs with 1⁄16 x 3⁄16-inch balsa
strips. The large cutout area in the wing
center-section is intended to leave the
cockpit area clear for super detailing.
Lift the wing assembly from the building
board. It is fairly flexible at this point. Trim
the temporary balsa shims from the spars.
Epoxy 2 ounces of lead weight into the
starboard wingtip. (See plans.) Make six 1⁄4-
inch sheet-balsa cradles (see plans sheet 2),
and pin them to the building board at rib
stations C, I, and P. Settle the wing
assembly into the cradles and pin them
securely.
Apply sheet covering and capstrips
primer coats using your favorite methods, then set them aside until
final assembly.
Stabilizer, Elevators, and Rudder: You can get strong, scalelike
fabric-covered tail surfaces by building them around an internal 1⁄64
plywood core. You can use a 3⁄8-inch-diameter Brad Point or
Forstner drill bit to drill desired lightening holes in the 1⁄64 plywood.
Those drill bits’ sharp, knifelike outer rims can cut perfect holes
without shredding or tearing the thin plywood.
Make your 1⁄64 plywood cores. Cement the balsa ribs and spars to
them. Soak 1⁄16 x 1⁄4-inch balsa strips in household ammonia, and
bind the wet strips around these structures. When dry, CyA the
laminations to these structures. Locate the control horn and epoxy it
to the elevators. Cut slots in the plywood for Robart hinges, and
reinforce the cutouts with balsa rectangles.
Carve and sand all parts to satisfaction. Cover with Sig Stix-It
and Sig Koverall. You can finish these parts all the way to the final
primer coats, then set them aside.
Undercarriage: Make a 1⁄8 plywood undercarriage mounting plate.
Bend up two 1⁄8-inch-diameter music-wire struts. Bind the struts to
the plate with thread and epoxy. Bind the strut free ends with soft
copper wire and solder. Solder 0.010 x 13⁄4-inch-diameter brass
disks to the axle. Cement formers 3A, 5A, and 7A to the mounting
plate, then plank the structure with 1⁄8 x 3⁄8-inch balsa strips.
Build up the wheel pants from two 3⁄4-inch-thick balsa blocks.
Tape two blocks together and drill three 1⁄8-inch-diameter holes for
alignment pins and the axle. Shove dowel alignment pins through
the holes and saw the pants to outline shape.
Separate the halves and hollow them with a Dremel Burr to suit
the wheels. Carve and sand the exterior of the pants to shape. Bind
and epoxy inboard pant halves to brass disks on undercarriage axles.
The strut fairings start at the wheel pants and work away from
them. Use various pieces of 3⁄16 sheet balsa in the axle area. Groove
and epoxy 3⁄16 sheet-balsa fairings to both sides of the struts. Roughcarve
the fairings to shape, then build up fillets or low spots with
Brodak Aeropoxy Lite as required. Dope the insides of the wheelpant
halves and wheel hubs to final finish and color.
Install wheels with washers and solder them to the axles. Trim
the axles to length. I like them to protrude through the wheel pants a
bit so that wheels, axles, and pants flex in unison. It reduces stresscrack
occurrences between the pants and pant fairings.
Sand the pants and fairings smooth. Cover them with 1⁄2-ounce
fiberglass. Finish them all the way to the final primer coats and set
them aside.
Cowling: Cut out C1, C2, and C3 bulkheads. Save the center
cutouts from C1 and C3; use those and three 1⁄8 plywood rectangles
The cowling is assembled on this simple plywood fixture. It
ensures accuracy and speeds assembly.
Formers, stringers have been attached to cowl fixture.
Cardboard templates are used to make accurate outer sheeting.
Wheel pants are carved from two pieces of 3⁄4 balsa that are tackglued
together. They are hollowed to save weight.
similar to the way you did it to the top surfaces in the preceding.
Notice that an area between ribs H and I is sheet-covered to
accommodate installation of the balsa strut fairings later.
Lift the wing from the building board. The structure is quite stiff.
This somewhat elaborate procedure has produced the straightest
wing I have ever built.
Cement 3⁄4-inch balsa tips to the framework. Construct the
aileron framework and temporarily tack-glue it to the wing. Carve
and sand the entire wing smooth. Drill and install brass-tubing
leadout guides in the port wingtip. Drill aileron spars for six 1⁄8-inchdiameter
dowel locator pins, and cut the ailerons separate from the
wing.
Bolt the bellcrank assembly, fitted with 3⁄64-inch-diameter
leadout wires, in place. Bend loops in the leadout-wire ends. Sand
the wing and aileron assembly to satisfaction, and cover it using Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall.
Fabricate large balsa strut fairings and epoxy them to the wing.
The wing and ailerons can be finished all the way through final
32 MODEL AVIATION
The model’s entire undercarriage assembly is made as a unit,
then it is epoxied into the fuselage structure.
The landing-gear fairing assembly is made from various sizes of
balsa sheet. It’s not as complex as it looks!
One more look at fuselage construction on aluminum tube. It’s
an easy but effective method worth remembering.
October 2003 33
(J1 and J3) to make a cowling assembly fixture. (See plans sheet 3.)
Use the fixture to assemble the original bulkheads (C1, C2, and C3) and
six 1⁄8 x 1⁄4-inch basswood stringers (C4 through C7) to align all parts
before applying CyA to all joints.
Make cardboard patterns and use them to cut out 1⁄32 plywood
cowling side panels. Lay out louver cutout patterns on each panel.
Notice that the louver layout is different on each side. Use a #11 XActo
knife to cut out all louvers, then CyA the panels to the cowling
formers.
CyA 3⁄32 x 1⁄4-inch basswood strips behind each louver opening. Use
an X-Acto knife, needle files, and sandpaper to carve and smooth each
opening. When you’re satisfied with the result, plank the cowl top and
bottom with 3⁄32 x 3⁄8-inch basswood strips.
Alternate methods of simulating louver details include making them
from fiberglass or using a metal die and stamping the louvers in soft
sheet metal. I am more comfortable working with wood, so I used that
medium.
The nose block is made from a basswood block. Cut the block to the
front, side, and top outline, and tack-glue it to the cowling. Shape and
fair it to blend into the cowling, leaving a little excess at the spinner
area for future fitting.
Cut the nose block free from the cowling, and use a Dremel Burr to
hollow it out to approximately 1⁄8-inch wall thickness except in the
areas where the cowl hold-down bolt will be. Drill or cut out all scale
cooling air holes and the propeller-shaft access hole. Lay out and drill
four 7⁄16-inch-diameter holes in the cowl’s lower starboard side for
dummy exhaust stacks. Set the cowl aside for final fitting to the
fuselage.
Fuselage: Obtain a piece of 3⁄4-inch-diameter, 30-inch-long Reynolds
aluminum tubing. Make a plug assembly (see plans details) and CyA it
into the tubing end. This plug end tab will slip into a slot in bulkhead 12
at the narrow fuselage tail end.
Cut out the 1⁄16 sheet-balsa fuselage crutch members and all
bulkheads. Cement 1⁄16 plywood doublers to the fuselage crutch
members. Mark centerlines on the crutch members and on all
bulkheads. Tabs on each bulkhead will interlock with corresponding
cutouts or slots in the side crutch members.
Carefully align and CyA interlocking bulkheads 3, 5, and 7 to the
fuselage crutch members. Slide the tubing guide through these
bulkheads, then slip remaining bulkheads 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 onto the
guide. With the guide properly located, pin and CyA these bulkheads to
the crutches. This should result in a straight fuselage crutch assembly.
Cement 1⁄2 x 1-inch balsa blocks to the firewall and crutch joint area.
(These will be partially carved away later to form scale cooling air
passageways.) Make the tailskid, and mount and CyA it to the crutch.
CyA a 1⁄64 plywood fin core to the fuselage. Fit rectangular balsa rib
blanks to the core. Form the laminated balsa fin outline, and CyA it to
the plywood core. Cement the various balsa fairing blocks and
basswood stringers to the fuselage sides and bottom. Cement cockpitarea
wing-saddle filler blocks to the fuselage sides. Shape and sand all
fairing blocks smooth.
Cut away portions of bulkheads 11 and 12 as necessary to test-fit the
horizontal tail surfaces. Slot bulkhead 7 (see plans) and test-fit the
wing. Make the elevator pushrod and set it aside for later installation.
Install and shape the 1⁄8 sheet balsa and balsa block on the turtledeck.
Carefully mark and cut away material for scale cooling air outlets on
the fuselage sides at the firewall. Inset 1⁄32 plywood panels with
appropriate cutouts flush with the balsa fairing blocks to close these
34 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—see page 191
October 2003 35
Why do so many pilots use Dynatron Starters? The Power? The Quality? Thirty years of experience?
Or is it because they want to start their engine without worrying about the starter?
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Quality.That’s the Gold Standard.That’s Sullivan.
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The Dynatron is the most
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at flying fields, performing
every day.
38 MODEL AVIATION
cooling air outlets in a scalelike manner.
Make the 3⁄8 x 1⁄2-inch engine mount and
gusset assemblies with cowl hold-down blind
nuts installed. Temporarily fit the mounts in
the fuselage, drill and set the blind nuts, and
bolt the engine to the mounts. Install the
throttle crank and its mounting plate. Remove
the engine and mounts, and set them aside.
Epoxy the undercarriage assembly into the
fuselage. Tidy up the openings or gaps around
the gear with balsa scraps and Aeropoxy Lite.
With one piece, cover the fuselage with Sig
Stix-It and Sig Koverall, starting at the
bottom, working up the sides to the wing
cutout, and overlapping at the top of the
turtledeck.
Fit the wing and stabilizer to the fuselage,
check them for alignment, and epoxy them in
permanently. Install the elevators with the
pushrod and connect to the bellcrank. Epoxy
engine mount/gusset assemblies into the
fuselage.
Intall a balsa dummy-pilot support and
bulkheads 4 and 6, which are glued to the top
of the wing center-section planking. Plank the
fuselage top and cut the cockpit opening. Fit
and carve balsa fillets at the wing. Cover any
bare wood with fiberglass, silk, or Koverall—
your choice.
Before installing the canopy, finish the
cockpit interior and finish the top of the
fuselage with matte black. The scale
instrument panel shown on the plans is too
deep by 1⁄2 inch because of the dummy-pilot
support’s location. I compromised by using
the top half of the panel with three large
instruments in my model.
I worked according to Don Typond’s
excellent videotape How to Paint Pilot
Figures to paint the 21⁄2-inch scale Williams
Bros. pilot before I installed it in the cockpit.
Don’t forget to make and install the dummy
gas cap before you close the area.
Form the canopy from a carved-balsa
master mold and a 4-inch-deep forming box
with a 1⁄4 plywood cutout, as you may have
seen illustrated in magazine articles. Heat 1⁄16-
inch-thick Perspex acrylic sheet to 350° and
“pull” the canopy. Trim the canopy to fit and
cement it to the fuselage with Testors plastic
cement. Mark off the areas that will remain
clear, and create small fillets around the
canopy’s perimeter with Aeropoxy Lite.
Install the fuel tank and associated filler
pipes. Bolt the engine in place and fit the
throttle linkage. Install a remote glow-plug
connector; access to the remote glow plug is
through a large nonscale hole in the cowling
bottom.
Bolt the cowling in place and fair it to the
spinner if you haven’t already. Locate and
drill or cut out all needle valve, muffler, and
muffler-fastener access holes. Remove the
cowl and cover it with 1⁄2-ounce fiberglass.
Install details such as the protruding
louvers, dummy air scoop, and tailskid
fairing. Fabricate wing-lift struts from
basswood, check them for fit, and cover them
with fiberglass and primer.
Finishing: It is good practice to use one
brand of paint products throughout the
finishing process to reduce the possibility of
incompatible products causing cracks,
peeling, or other surface problems. I used
Brodak thinners, primer, and color dopes. I
thinned all primer, clear, and color dopes 50%
or more.
At this point all structures are complete,
with covering materials and some primer on
surfaces that will seem fairly smooth. The
model should be finished in a way that adds
minimum excess weight.
Spray silver dope over all surfaces. Any
rough spots that need attention will be
highlighted and will shine like a neon light.
Instead of adding unnecessary weight by
spraying additional coats on the entire model,
spot-spray and wet-or-dry sand alternate coats
of silver and filler on the rough areas that need
attention until the entire model has a smooth
base for color-coat applications.
Spray two to four coats of Piper Cream on
the appropriate areas. Mask as required and
spray two to four coats of Forest Green on the
fuselage, undercarriage, and struts. Mask
again as required and spray the black and gold
registration and racing numbers on the wing
and fuselage.
Various types of pens can be used to apply
surface detailing. Some are easy to smear, so
as you work, protect completed areas with a
light dusting of clear dope, then move on to
the next area.
I used a black TopFlite MonoKote Panel
Line Pen, a black Sanford Sharpie Permanent
Marker, and a Pilot Silver Marker. These pens
work best on smooth doped surfaces after the
areas have been rubbed lightly with talcum
powder.
Panel lines can be simulated with black
striping tape or black pens. Screw heads,
rivets, and other fasteners are simulated
with silver dots. I drew the canopy
ventilation openings with a black pen
because I feared that debris would be
trapped in the cockpit if these openings
were cut out.
Use a credit card held low at an oblique
angle to scrape off any ridges left by the
masking tape. Spray on roughly a half dozen
coats of clear dope. Sand the entire model
with increasingly finer grades of wet-or-dry
paper, finishing in the 600-1,200 range.
Complete the job with rubbing compound
and wax.
Propeller: Even the neatest Scale model
will look unfinished if it isn’t fitted with a
scale propeller. Glue together six 3⁄16 x 13⁄4 x
141⁄2-inch basswood blanks, drill them for
the propeller shaft, and saw them to outline
shape. I used a Prather Prop Pitch Gauge to
carve accurate blades. The propeller is too
40 MODEL AVIATION
thick to accommodate the propeller nut and
washer, so cut the hub area back to 1⁄2-inch
deep.
Paint the propeller with aluminumcolored
dope. Paint the back sides of the
blades matte black.
Final Assembly: Four dowels anchor the
left struts to the wing and fuselage. The
outboard strut ends are located with dowels
and predrilled holes in the wing-strut fairing
blocks. Two 1⁄16-inch-diameter dowels
anchor the strut at the fuselage longeron
line.
Short lengths of 7⁄16-inch-diameter brass
tubing are installed in the cowling dummy
exhaust-stack openings.
Sweat-solder lengths of soft brass wire
into each end of six pieces of 3⁄32-inchdiameter
brass tubing. Space and align the
tubing carefully, and sweat-solder a 5⁄16-
inch-wide brass strip at roughly the middle
of these pieces. Bend the soft wire at right
angles.
Drill holes in the fuselage dummy oilcooler
supports that will align with those 12
wires. Press the wires into the holes and
CyA them securely. Two pins through the
central brass strip will help secure this
assembly.
Install the rudder using Robart hinges
and epoxy. Offset the rudder approximately
1⁄4 inch. A dot of CyA to the hinge point will
lock the rudder in position.
You can form a small dummy air scoop
from sheet styrene the same way you made
the canopy. Trim the scoop to size and
cement it to the canopy starboard side.
Install the ailerons using 1⁄8-inchdiameter
birch dowels and epoxy. I like to
incorporate 1⁄16 inch of offset in each aileron
so that the model will roll away from the
pilot to maintain positive line tension.
Flying: Trying to start inverted engines that
are enclosed in cowlings that make it
difficult or impossible to choke the engines
gives me a fit. I modified an expandedpolystyrene-
foam ice cooler to provide a
cradle to support the Chester Special in an
inverted position.
After I start the engine, it is simple to
flip the model upright and get on with the
flight. This procedure takes the pressure off
when I’m trying to comply with that threeminute
time limit at a contest site.
Before test-flying the model, I checked it
for balance by suspending it by its wingtips
at a point in-line with the LE sheet covering
line. The model hung level, which indicated
that it verged on being tail-heavy.
Nevertheless, I flew the model that way.
The first flight proved pitch-sensitive and
was erratic. The airplane was difficult to fly
smoothly, and it was difficult to set up for a
satisfactory landing approach. I was happy
when I executed a safe landing after a few
laps.
The model’s nose hung down roughly 5°
after I epoxied 5 ounces of lead into the
cowling and installed a 2-ounce heavy brass
propeller nut. Subsequent flights were tame;
smooth touch-and-gos and landings became
routine.
I had been extremely pleased with the
true-to-scale cooling air openings and vents
that were incorporated into this model.
However, the engine was not getting enough
cooling, was running too hot, and was
plagued with unplanned engine stoppages.
I cut a 11⁄4 x 2-inch nonscale opening
into the cowling bottom. (See plans.)
Friends suggested that the propeller was
working the engine too hard, so I modified
the propeller to 11 inches in diameter with 5
inches of pitch. These measures solved the
engine-cooling problems.
To improve the model’s appearance I
replaced the large factory muffler with a
tongue-type muffler. I epoxied 2 ounces of
lead into the cowling to compensate for the
weight difference. The tongue-muffler idea
didn’t work out, and I reinstalled the
original muffler. The 2 ounces remained in
the cowling.
A nice-flying model became a very niceflying
model. This vividly illustrated how
balance can affect a model’s performance.
More than 60 years had elapsed between
construction of the two versions of the Art
Chester Racers that I built. They are two
models I will never forget. MA
Frank W. Beatty
2608 Pontoon Rd.
Granite City IL 62040
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