CONTROL LINE RACING
Dave McDonald, Box 384, Daleville IN 47334; E-mail: [email protected]
At the 1999 Nationals, Bob Whitney resurrected B Team Race. Although the turnout was less than encouraging, he has continued his quest to bring this event back to popularity.
Bob sent me a copy of the rules that he is going to use at the 2000 Nationals. He stated in his letter that the rules changes for this year were a result of his talking to competitors and potential competitors.
He explained that his intent is to develop B Team Race as if it never ended, yet keep the performance and airplane design from the past.
With that in mind, I thought it might be interesting for you B fliers and potential B fliers to see the 2000 B Team Race rules. If you have questions or comments, please direct them to Bob Whitney, 1840 NW 16 Ct., Pembroke Pines FL 33022; Tel.: (954) 983-3624 (home) or (954) 974-7259 (work).
2000 B Team Race Rules
- Airplanes are to have 125 square inches of wing area outside of the fuselage. (No flying wings or pod-and-boom.)
- Fuselage must measure 2 inches wide and 2 3/4 inches from the top of the pilot’s head to the bottom of the fuselage.
- Two wheels with a minimum of 1 1/2 inches diameter required.
- One-ounce maximum tank required.
- Shutoff required.
- Must look like a 1940s, ’50s, or ’60s B Team Racer, but does not have to be a particular airplane from that era. Individual designs are permitted. Award for Best Appearance.
- Lines are to be .018 braided, and 60 feet +/- 6 inches.
- Fuel is open; supply your own.
- Engines are to be a loop-scavenged single-bypass .29, or any engine up to a .28.
- Top speed is to be 100 mph (18 seconds).
- Exceeding the 100 mph speed will result in a penalty of a mandatory pitstop.
- Races are to be 35 laps, 70 laps, and 140 laps.
- Tanks will be checked prior to the event.
Muncie Model and Hobby will sponsor this event at the 2000 Nationals.
I encourage those who are interested in B Team Race to contact Bob, and plan to participate.
These full-fuselage airplanes are very attractive when flown, and the speeds are slow enough to allow most contestants to fly their entries safely. This event combines the need for mileage and speed.
The $64 question in the event is, can you run fast and pit the airplane, or do you run slow and get laps?
Fast Fills
Not too long ago, the rubber fast-fill market was about to be extinct. However, Marc Warshawshan has purchased the original molds for the “Black” rubber fast fills. I have seen and tested some of them, and they are of good quality.
Marc is also making wheels—the original “Don’s Wheels,” available in 1 1/4, 1 1/2, 1 3/4, 2, and 2 1/4 inches.
I have talked to Marc on several occasions, and he is committed to providing a quality product that the racer can use. Contact him at 11577 North Shore Dr., Whitmore Lake MI 48189-9124; Tel.: (734) 449-7355; E-mail: [email protected].
Hot Box
I decided to get serious about making some propellers and molds. When I thought about this, it became apparent that some form of controlled hot box was needed to bake the items that I would make.
Some builders use ovens — a kitchen oven, or something smaller. These get too hot, or are unable to adequately control the temperature.
I visited with Steve Wilk when I was in the Minneapolis area, and I noticed that he was using a foam box with a light bulb as the heat source. He watched the temperature with a small thermometer.
Although Steve has the temperature set to a desired level by testing different wattages of lights, I like the idea we discussed regarding implementing a dimmer switch into the system.
I had finally found a use for a very nice wood box that I had at home. It is 26 x 11 x 11 inches, and is constructed from pine.
From Radio Shack I purchased an indoor/outdoor thermometer with the capability to display temperature readings of up to 158°. From the local home-improvement store I purchased a dimmer switch, a heavy-duty extension cord, a light fixture, and two boxes to hold the switch and fixture. The supplies cost approximately $20.
With all of the parts, I began the 20-minute job of putting a hot box together.
I laid out the components to determine where I wanted the switch, temperature probe, light, and how I was going to get power in the box.
I cut the box to accept the dimmer switch, then I lined the box on all sides with aluminum foil. This is done to reflect the heat back into the box, and help with temperature loss through the wood structure. After this, I began to install the components.
Within a very few minutes, I was ready to notch the lid to allow the cord to pass through, yet allow the lid to close completely.
I then attached the dimmer switch to the switch box. I installed the light fixture and attached the cord to the fixture. I placed the thermometer probe through a small hole, and attached the temperature probe inside the box with Velcro™. This allows the cord and temperature gauge to be placed inside the box for ease of storage or travel.
I installed a 75-watt light bulb, and began the test.
I set the dimmer switch to allow the light to be fully illuminated. After approximately 40 minutes, the temperature inside the box began to stabilize at 155°. I made a note of this on the faceplate for future reference, and began to dim the light to determine where specific heat ranges were.
This is a trial-and-error method, but with some patience, it works. Allow plenty of time for the temperature to stabilize, and mark your faceplate with the temperature reading.
I have tested the box on several occasions, and have even placed a second thermometer inside, and have been able to reproduce consistent temperature readings. I have allowed the box to sit at a particular setting for a period in excess of five hours, and the temperature only fluctuated approximately 2.5° during this time.
After you have determined the settings required for your particular application, you are ready to use your hot box. It is a simple and effective way to "cook" molds.
New CYA (cyanoacrylate) Glue
I picked up a new type of CYA from Bob Smith Industries. It is marketed as IC-2000, and is said to be rubber-toughened. This product is supposed to have better working characteristics with carbon fiber, fiberglass, and metal, be impact-resistant, and bond with a temperature tolerance of up to 250°.
I have used small quantities of this on some carbon-fiber components, and I'm pleased with the results.
US F2C Team
In conjunction with Henry Nelson and Steve Wilk, a fund-raising effort is underway to support the 2000 F2C team.
A drawing will be held at the 2000 Nats, with the first prize/winner receiving $350 in Nelson merchandise, second prize is $150 in Nelson merchandise, and the third prize-winner will receive five propellers from Steve Wilk's Eliminator series. Tickets are $5 each, and may be purchased by sending check or money order to NCLRA F2C Fund, c/o Dave McDowell, Box 384, Daleville IN 47334. All profits go to support the F2C fliers.
NCLRA
Take a moment to explore the National Control Line Racing Association. The organization provides a newsletter, and promotes CL Racing.
Dues are $10 US, $12 outside, and can be sent to Dick Lambert, 4651 Ridgewood Ave., Port Orange FL 32127.
If you have an idea for a column, or have information regarding CL Racing, please send them to me. I would love to have information from your events. As always, your contributions are solicited and appreciated. MA
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
