CL Scale
Bill Boss 77-06 269th St., New Hyde Park NY 11040
An easy and not-too-expensive way to get started in Control Line (CL) Scale is by building, modifying, and flying a Hobby Hangar kit, according to Chuck Snyder of Cincinnati, OH.
Chuck said that he always thought the Typhoon was a good-looking airplane, and when he saw the Hobby Hangar kit at the Toledo Show in April 1999, he just had to have one.
The Typhoon is a laser-cut kit intended for Radio Control (RC) Combat, but it converts easily to CL with the addition of a bellcrank platform and a three-line bellcrank used for controlling the throttle of a Fox .25. The positioning of the bellcrank allowed room for the fuel tank to be placed above and forward of the bellcrank.
One of this month's photos shows the installation of a standard three-line bellcrank and the use of a secondary nylon bellcrank, which is required to attain the proper throw for operation of the engine-throttle linkage. Note that there are lightening holes in the bellcrank platform in an effort to keep the model's weight down.
Chuck also pointed out that the engine weight, the position of the bellcrank, and the position of the fuel tank produced a well-balanced model and required no additional nose weight.
Chuck said that the Typhoon flies well for a small model, and that there are many RC Combat kits on the market—some of them look very good. The kits almost eliminate the excuse of Scale being too expensive or too complex to build.
Club members Jim Moore and Larry Tenover are building their own models after seeing Chuck's Typhoon fly. Jim is now building the Hobby Hangar P-47, while Larry has the Seafury under construction.
In addition to the Typhoon and P-47, Hobby Hangar has a fine-looking Gee Bee Model Z with a 57-inch wingspan, a 50-inch S.E.5a, and a 51-inch Fokker D.VII that can easily be converted and get you started in CL Scale.
Chuck plans to enter his model in local meets that feature Fun Scale. He has also pledged a six-pack of soda to club members who have a model flying by Memorial Day; he hopes to pay off big.
You can get more information about Hobby Hangar products by writing to them at 7715 Industrial St., West Melbourne FL 32904, or by logging on to their Web site at www.hobbyhangar.com.
At that time, Jack's P-38 was painted in an olive-drab color scheme, taken from the P-38 on display at the United States Air Force Museum at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base (Dayton, OH).
The model has taken on a new look—that of the 5,000th P-38 off the Lockheed assembly line, in the famous YIPPEE color scheme.
The model featured landing gear and Fowler flaps that were electrically operated and functioned in scale time. The Fowler-flap operating mechanism was outstanding in this model and was completely hidden within the wing structure; no linkage or hinges could be seen to spoil the scale appearance of the model.
Jack said that "the Fowler flaps were most effective in bringing this rather heavy model floating in like a butterfly on landings."
The throttle and wheel-brake features were controlled by a standard three-line control system.
Extensive picture coverage of this model's construction, as well as plans and a construction article, were published in the February 1988 Model Aviation.
Jack tells me that his P-38 Lightning YIPPEE resides in retirement at the Frontiers of Flight Museum in the Love Field passenger terminal (Dallas, TX).
Shop Safety
Shop safety during model-building is not only essential for your own well-being, but is also important for the protection of others who may be in the same household.
The following suggestions by Mike O'Donnell originated in The Beacon (Joe Bachman, editor) and were in a recent issue of the Indy Sportliners newsletter. The suggestions relate to shop safety, whether at home or otherwise.
Chemicals and Solvents
- The storage of chemicals in the shop can be dangerous. If possible, store chemicals away from the house, in an outside shed.
- Pay close attention to the types of chemicals and solvents you store together. If chemicals are not properly stored, there is a chance that they might explode or start a fire.
Eye Protection
- Always use proper eye protection when grinding, spraying, chipping, or sanding. A pair of safety glasses is a necessity in the shop.
Lung Protection
- Use a respirator when sanding, spraying, or mixing chemicals, working with solvents, or cleaning up a dusty shop. There are all kinds of respirators, so make sure you're using one suited for the job you're doing.
Open Flames or Hot Tools
- Keep a fire extinguisher handy at all times.
- When using open flame, such as a propane torch, watch the direction the flame is pointing and keep clear of flammable items.
- When using a soldering iron or covering iron, keep the area clear and use a bench rest for the iron when possible.
- Always turn tools off and unplug them when they are not in use.
Hand and Power Tools
- Use the tool for its designed task. Keep tools in top condition. Make sure they are oiled regularly, adjusted, and stored properly.
Things to do in the shop:
- Keep it clean.
- Keep the floor free of tripping hazards.
- Keep flammable items away from the hot-water heater and furnace.
Things not to do in the shop:
- Do not overload electrical outlets.
- Do not store solvent rags in open cans.
- Do not leave paint brushes in open cans of solvent overnight.
Checklist of Things to Keep in the Shop
- Fire extinguisher
- First-aid kit
- Eye wash/eye clamp
- Glue debonder
- Good lighting
- Smoke detector
- Eye protection
- Ear protection
- Hand protection
Safety for yourself and your family is most important, and it's the only way to enjoy this great hobby, at home and on the field.
Workshop Hint
Bob Furr, a member of the Orbiting Eagles of Omaha, says that he was taught the following many years ago by a school shop-class instructor:
If you use a belt sander in your workshop, you know that the belt gets clogged with bits of glue and wood. To make the belt last longer, use a chunk of soft rubber like a giant eraser to clean the belt. You can buy rubber belt-cleaning sticks from woodworking suppliers for approximately $7, but the bottom of an old crepe-soled shoe works just as well.
Please send ideas, notice of upcoming CL Scale events, contest reports, and photos of CL Scale activity to me at the address at the top of this column. MA
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
