June 2004 149
IS REFINISHING a model worth it? I
asked Frank McMillan this question last year
after he had completed a refinish on one of
his Caudrons. His reason for attempting it
was that that particular model flew extremely
well. He explained the process he used and
insisted that it was easy to do. Frank was the
first person to ever tell me that refinishing a
model was something he would do again.
Most people have horror stories regarding
their experiences and swear that they will
never try it again.
There are two basic methods used to
remove the existing finish: sanding it off and
doing a chemical strip. Having never heard a
positive story from someone who had used
the sanding method, the chemical strip
seemed a much better way to go. Besides, I
really don’t enjoy sanding on a model all that
much.
CONTROL LINE AEROBATICS
Curt Contrata, 6783 Nightwind Cir., Orlando FL 32818; E-mail: [email protected]
Shown mounted in a finishing device and halfway through the stripping process, the
author’s 2001 Katana has begun its cosmetic transformation.
Go over carbon-covered areas slowly. This shows spot near flap
horn where carbon veil was wiped completely off.
Top three at 50th King Orange Internationals (L-R): Curt Contrata,
second; Randy Smith, first; Rob Gruber, third.
After our move to Orlando, it took longer
than expected to get my shop set up and
begin constructing a new model. For that
reason I decided to try refinishing one of my
older airplanes. Deciding which one to
choose for the project was not difficult; the
2001 Katana was an easy choice. It is among
the best models I have ever flown, and it
needed a new look. Coincidently, Randy
Smith was in the middle of developing some
new designs and had ideas about cosmetic
changes for the old model.
Since the model flies so well, we decided
not to remove the flaps and elevators so that
there would be a minimum of retrimming
involved when it was finished. For the same
reasons, we weighed the entire model along
with each individual component before
starting and then at each stage of the project.
That way there was an accurate record of
how much came off and went back on.
After the conversations with Frank, and a
few more with Randy, I decided to give it a
try. Since the reasons for this particular
refinish were cosmetic, I took notes on what
changes and repairs needed to be made to
the model before I started. For efficiency’s
sake, I made note of all the damaged spots
so that I could make those repairs at the
same time and nothing would be forgotten.
The nose block required reshaping,
cracks were forming where the elevator
fillets met the horizontal stabilizer, and the
canopy needed to be replaced. The design
modifications included changing the
fuselage profile, reshaping the vertical
stabilizer, and slightly altering all the tips.
For the refinish you will need a gallon of
cheap lacquer thinner from a home-
06sig5QXD 3/24/04 11:49 am Page 149
improvement store, a roll of Bounty Selecta-
Size paper towels, and a proper mask. If
you don’t have a finishing device on which
to mount your model, purchase one for this
project and you won’t be sorry.
Before going any further, I have a
“Warning Statement.” This process uses
lacquer thinner, and there will be large
amounts of fumes for extended periods of
time. You must use a charcoal-type mask,
and make sure your workspace is well
ventilated. When you are finished, put the
used paper towels outside to gas off; a plastic
crate seems to work well as a container for
them. Also, be sure to read and observe all
the warnings on the can before you start.
The one problem that Frank had was with
oil contamination; I did not want to take that
chance. On three separate evenings before the
stripping process began, I cleaned the model
using alcohol, degreaser, and ammonia.
Make sure the model is completely clean
before you begin stripping any paint.
You can start removing the finish
anywhere on the model because it will not
take long to get a feel for what is involved;
you will just need to have a plan. It is
possible to go all the way down to bare
wood; however, the best part of using this
method is that you may stop at any point,
back-stepping through the finishing process.
The original finish was all Brodak dope, and
it seemed to come off in layers with lacquer
thinner.
Tear off roughly 20 of the half-sized
Select-a-Size paper towels and make a small
stack on your bench. Fold one piece in half
three times to make it the perfect size and
thickness. Place it over the open can of
thinner and tip the can for a few seconds.
You don’t want the thinner to drip; you only
want it to wet the folded paper towel through
to the other side.
Working on one small area at a time, wipe
off the old finish. You will have to
continuously flip and unfold/refold the towel
until it no longer works; at that point it will
still feel wet, but it will be saturated with
dope and not thinner. When you feel that the
towel is no longer effective, wet a new one
and continue the process.
Don’t try to wipe too large of an area at
once. A flap or elevator is done in three to
four sections per side, with each side taking
roughly six minutes. You will start slowly
with the clear coats; it may take two or three
towels for those alone. As soon as you are
through the clear, the process will go quickly
through color and filler coats.
You will find that you can be aggressive
if the substrate is cloth and finishing resin,
such as on the nose, and fairly aggressive
over the surfaces that have silkspan. When
mine was finished, the silkspan felt like it
does right after the clear is applied and when
it’s ready for the first coat of filler.
Consider the type of construction used
on the model. On surfaces where carbon veil
was employed, it is easy to rub a bare spot.
If you don’t intend to remove the carbon
veil, proceed slowly once you get down to
the filler-coat layer.
If your model contains foam
components, you must exercise extreme
caution. The thinner will dissolve the foam it
comes in contact with, and even the fumes
can cause damage. You need to work a little
drier over a sheeted foam surface than over a
wooden structure, and be careful around the
hinges and any other possible openings.
I began the Katana’s strip with a wingtip
and followed with the leading edge, trailing
edge, center-section sheeting, and the
capstrips. A single wing panel averaged just
more than 20 minutes to strip. The entire
model was completely stripped in just less
than four hours, across three sessions.
After leaving it three days to dry out, I
carefully checked the model for warps,
bowed sheeting, or damage to the foam tail
surfaces. I then cut out the wing’s silkspan
bays and gave the entire model a light
sanding.
If you have a model that you think has a
second life in it, the method I have described
is simple to do and not at all messy. Aside
from the fumes, there were no problems.
I learned that it is possible to remove the
finish in one area and not affect an adjoining
area. Since nothing was ever dripping with
thinner, I could control exactly what I was
removing. It was easy to imagine a repair in
which it would be better to strip and repaint
a portion of a model than to add layers of
paint to the area.
Last year a couple Control Line ARF
models were introduced, and now there are
three more. A full-fuselage, Classic-legal
Oriental; a Profile Cardinal; and a 1⁄2A Baby
Clown are the latest additions from Brodak
Manufacturing. The company is offering all
three ARFs with color choices. There will
even be ready-to-finish versions available if
you would rather do that part yourself.
I looked at the prototypes of these new
models, and they appeared to be light and
well built. Costs were not established at the
time I wrote this, but expect them to be
competitive with the others that are currently
available.
Responding to the many requests for a
lightweight, ball-bearing .40, Randy Smith
of Aero Products has developed a new
engine from the ground up. With the first
edition of his new Ultra Light series of PA
engines, Randy is introducing an 8-ounce,
rear-exhaust .40, and a side-exhaust version
is to follow.
If that were not enough, the second
generation of PAs has just been introduced.
These engines have a new case that has a
wider seat for the venturi and exhaust. They
also feature new, specially designed
bearings with improved seals and an I-Beam
connecting rod. MA
Sources:
Aero Products
980 Winnbrook Dr.
Dacula GA 30019
(678) 407-9376
www.aeroproduct.net
Brodak Manufacturing
100 Park Ave.
Carmichaels PA 15320
(724) 966-5975
www.brodak.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/06
Page Numbers: 149,150,151
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/06
Page Numbers: 149,150,151
June 2004 149
IS REFINISHING a model worth it? I
asked Frank McMillan this question last year
after he had completed a refinish on one of
his Caudrons. His reason for attempting it
was that that particular model flew extremely
well. He explained the process he used and
insisted that it was easy to do. Frank was the
first person to ever tell me that refinishing a
model was something he would do again.
Most people have horror stories regarding
their experiences and swear that they will
never try it again.
There are two basic methods used to
remove the existing finish: sanding it off and
doing a chemical strip. Having never heard a
positive story from someone who had used
the sanding method, the chemical strip
seemed a much better way to go. Besides, I
really don’t enjoy sanding on a model all that
much.
CONTROL LINE AEROBATICS
Curt Contrata, 6783 Nightwind Cir., Orlando FL 32818; E-mail: [email protected]
Shown mounted in a finishing device and halfway through the stripping process, the
author’s 2001 Katana has begun its cosmetic transformation.
Go over carbon-covered areas slowly. This shows spot near flap
horn where carbon veil was wiped completely off.
Top three at 50th King Orange Internationals (L-R): Curt Contrata,
second; Randy Smith, first; Rob Gruber, third.
After our move to Orlando, it took longer
than expected to get my shop set up and
begin constructing a new model. For that
reason I decided to try refinishing one of my
older airplanes. Deciding which one to
choose for the project was not difficult; the
2001 Katana was an easy choice. It is among
the best models I have ever flown, and it
needed a new look. Coincidently, Randy
Smith was in the middle of developing some
new designs and had ideas about cosmetic
changes for the old model.
Since the model flies so well, we decided
not to remove the flaps and elevators so that
there would be a minimum of retrimming
involved when it was finished. For the same
reasons, we weighed the entire model along
with each individual component before
starting and then at each stage of the project.
That way there was an accurate record of
how much came off and went back on.
After the conversations with Frank, and a
few more with Randy, I decided to give it a
try. Since the reasons for this particular
refinish were cosmetic, I took notes on what
changes and repairs needed to be made to
the model before I started. For efficiency’s
sake, I made note of all the damaged spots
so that I could make those repairs at the
same time and nothing would be forgotten.
The nose block required reshaping,
cracks were forming where the elevator
fillets met the horizontal stabilizer, and the
canopy needed to be replaced. The design
modifications included changing the
fuselage profile, reshaping the vertical
stabilizer, and slightly altering all the tips.
For the refinish you will need a gallon of
cheap lacquer thinner from a home-
06sig5QXD 3/24/04 11:49 am Page 149
improvement store, a roll of Bounty Selecta-
Size paper towels, and a proper mask. If
you don’t have a finishing device on which
to mount your model, purchase one for this
project and you won’t be sorry.
Before going any further, I have a
“Warning Statement.” This process uses
lacquer thinner, and there will be large
amounts of fumes for extended periods of
time. You must use a charcoal-type mask,
and make sure your workspace is well
ventilated. When you are finished, put the
used paper towels outside to gas off; a plastic
crate seems to work well as a container for
them. Also, be sure to read and observe all
the warnings on the can before you start.
The one problem that Frank had was with
oil contamination; I did not want to take that
chance. On three separate evenings before the
stripping process began, I cleaned the model
using alcohol, degreaser, and ammonia.
Make sure the model is completely clean
before you begin stripping any paint.
You can start removing the finish
anywhere on the model because it will not
take long to get a feel for what is involved;
you will just need to have a plan. It is
possible to go all the way down to bare
wood; however, the best part of using this
method is that you may stop at any point,
back-stepping through the finishing process.
The original finish was all Brodak dope, and
it seemed to come off in layers with lacquer
thinner.
Tear off roughly 20 of the half-sized
Select-a-Size paper towels and make a small
stack on your bench. Fold one piece in half
three times to make it the perfect size and
thickness. Place it over the open can of
thinner and tip the can for a few seconds.
You don’t want the thinner to drip; you only
want it to wet the folded paper towel through
to the other side.
Working on one small area at a time, wipe
off the old finish. You will have to
continuously flip and unfold/refold the towel
until it no longer works; at that point it will
still feel wet, but it will be saturated with
dope and not thinner. When you feel that the
towel is no longer effective, wet a new one
and continue the process.
Don’t try to wipe too large of an area at
once. A flap or elevator is done in three to
four sections per side, with each side taking
roughly six minutes. You will start slowly
with the clear coats; it may take two or three
towels for those alone. As soon as you are
through the clear, the process will go quickly
through color and filler coats.
You will find that you can be aggressive
if the substrate is cloth and finishing resin,
such as on the nose, and fairly aggressive
over the surfaces that have silkspan. When
mine was finished, the silkspan felt like it
does right after the clear is applied and when
it’s ready for the first coat of filler.
Consider the type of construction used
on the model. On surfaces where carbon veil
was employed, it is easy to rub a bare spot.
If you don’t intend to remove the carbon
veil, proceed slowly once you get down to
the filler-coat layer.
If your model contains foam
components, you must exercise extreme
caution. The thinner will dissolve the foam it
comes in contact with, and even the fumes
can cause damage. You need to work a little
drier over a sheeted foam surface than over a
wooden structure, and be careful around the
hinges and any other possible openings.
I began the Katana’s strip with a wingtip
and followed with the leading edge, trailing
edge, center-section sheeting, and the
capstrips. A single wing panel averaged just
more than 20 minutes to strip. The entire
model was completely stripped in just less
than four hours, across three sessions.
After leaving it three days to dry out, I
carefully checked the model for warps,
bowed sheeting, or damage to the foam tail
surfaces. I then cut out the wing’s silkspan
bays and gave the entire model a light
sanding.
If you have a model that you think has a
second life in it, the method I have described
is simple to do and not at all messy. Aside
from the fumes, there were no problems.
I learned that it is possible to remove the
finish in one area and not affect an adjoining
area. Since nothing was ever dripping with
thinner, I could control exactly what I was
removing. It was easy to imagine a repair in
which it would be better to strip and repaint
a portion of a model than to add layers of
paint to the area.
Last year a couple Control Line ARF
models were introduced, and now there are
three more. A full-fuselage, Classic-legal
Oriental; a Profile Cardinal; and a 1⁄2A Baby
Clown are the latest additions from Brodak
Manufacturing. The company is offering all
three ARFs with color choices. There will
even be ready-to-finish versions available if
you would rather do that part yourself.
I looked at the prototypes of these new
models, and they appeared to be light and
well built. Costs were not established at the
time I wrote this, but expect them to be
competitive with the others that are currently
available.
Responding to the many requests for a
lightweight, ball-bearing .40, Randy Smith
of Aero Products has developed a new
engine from the ground up. With the first
edition of his new Ultra Light series of PA
engines, Randy is introducing an 8-ounce,
rear-exhaust .40, and a side-exhaust version
is to follow.
If that were not enough, the second
generation of PAs has just been introduced.
These engines have a new case that has a
wider seat for the venturi and exhaust. They
also feature new, specially designed
bearings with improved seals and an I-Beam
connecting rod. MA
Sources:
Aero Products
980 Winnbrook Dr.
Dacula GA 30019
(678) 407-9376
www.aeroproduct.net
Brodak Manufacturing
100 Park Ave.
Carmichaels PA 15320
(724) 966-5975
www.brodak.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/06
Page Numbers: 149,150,151
June 2004 149
IS REFINISHING a model worth it? I
asked Frank McMillan this question last year
after he had completed a refinish on one of
his Caudrons. His reason for attempting it
was that that particular model flew extremely
well. He explained the process he used and
insisted that it was easy to do. Frank was the
first person to ever tell me that refinishing a
model was something he would do again.
Most people have horror stories regarding
their experiences and swear that they will
never try it again.
There are two basic methods used to
remove the existing finish: sanding it off and
doing a chemical strip. Having never heard a
positive story from someone who had used
the sanding method, the chemical strip
seemed a much better way to go. Besides, I
really don’t enjoy sanding on a model all that
much.
CONTROL LINE AEROBATICS
Curt Contrata, 6783 Nightwind Cir., Orlando FL 32818; E-mail: [email protected]
Shown mounted in a finishing device and halfway through the stripping process, the
author’s 2001 Katana has begun its cosmetic transformation.
Go over carbon-covered areas slowly. This shows spot near flap
horn where carbon veil was wiped completely off.
Top three at 50th King Orange Internationals (L-R): Curt Contrata,
second; Randy Smith, first; Rob Gruber, third.
After our move to Orlando, it took longer
than expected to get my shop set up and
begin constructing a new model. For that
reason I decided to try refinishing one of my
older airplanes. Deciding which one to
choose for the project was not difficult; the
2001 Katana was an easy choice. It is among
the best models I have ever flown, and it
needed a new look. Coincidently, Randy
Smith was in the middle of developing some
new designs and had ideas about cosmetic
changes for the old model.
Since the model flies so well, we decided
not to remove the flaps and elevators so that
there would be a minimum of retrimming
involved when it was finished. For the same
reasons, we weighed the entire model along
with each individual component before
starting and then at each stage of the project.
That way there was an accurate record of
how much came off and went back on.
After the conversations with Frank, and a
few more with Randy, I decided to give it a
try. Since the reasons for this particular
refinish were cosmetic, I took notes on what
changes and repairs needed to be made to
the model before I started. For efficiency’s
sake, I made note of all the damaged spots
so that I could make those repairs at the
same time and nothing would be forgotten.
The nose block required reshaping,
cracks were forming where the elevator
fillets met the horizontal stabilizer, and the
canopy needed to be replaced. The design
modifications included changing the
fuselage profile, reshaping the vertical
stabilizer, and slightly altering all the tips.
For the refinish you will need a gallon of
cheap lacquer thinner from a home-
06sig5QXD 3/24/04 11:49 am Page 149
improvement store, a roll of Bounty Selecta-
Size paper towels, and a proper mask. If
you don’t have a finishing device on which
to mount your model, purchase one for this
project and you won’t be sorry.
Before going any further, I have a
“Warning Statement.” This process uses
lacquer thinner, and there will be large
amounts of fumes for extended periods of
time. You must use a charcoal-type mask,
and make sure your workspace is well
ventilated. When you are finished, put the
used paper towels outside to gas off; a plastic
crate seems to work well as a container for
them. Also, be sure to read and observe all
the warnings on the can before you start.
The one problem that Frank had was with
oil contamination; I did not want to take that
chance. On three separate evenings before the
stripping process began, I cleaned the model
using alcohol, degreaser, and ammonia.
Make sure the model is completely clean
before you begin stripping any paint.
You can start removing the finish
anywhere on the model because it will not
take long to get a feel for what is involved;
you will just need to have a plan. It is
possible to go all the way down to bare
wood; however, the best part of using this
method is that you may stop at any point,
back-stepping through the finishing process.
The original finish was all Brodak dope, and
it seemed to come off in layers with lacquer
thinner.
Tear off roughly 20 of the half-sized
Select-a-Size paper towels and make a small
stack on your bench. Fold one piece in half
three times to make it the perfect size and
thickness. Place it over the open can of
thinner and tip the can for a few seconds.
You don’t want the thinner to drip; you only
want it to wet the folded paper towel through
to the other side.
Working on one small area at a time, wipe
off the old finish. You will have to
continuously flip and unfold/refold the towel
until it no longer works; at that point it will
still feel wet, but it will be saturated with
dope and not thinner. When you feel that the
towel is no longer effective, wet a new one
and continue the process.
Don’t try to wipe too large of an area at
once. A flap or elevator is done in three to
four sections per side, with each side taking
roughly six minutes. You will start slowly
with the clear coats; it may take two or three
towels for those alone. As soon as you are
through the clear, the process will go quickly
through color and filler coats.
You will find that you can be aggressive
if the substrate is cloth and finishing resin,
such as on the nose, and fairly aggressive
over the surfaces that have silkspan. When
mine was finished, the silkspan felt like it
does right after the clear is applied and when
it’s ready for the first coat of filler.
Consider the type of construction used
on the model. On surfaces where carbon veil
was employed, it is easy to rub a bare spot.
If you don’t intend to remove the carbon
veil, proceed slowly once you get down to
the filler-coat layer.
If your model contains foam
components, you must exercise extreme
caution. The thinner will dissolve the foam it
comes in contact with, and even the fumes
can cause damage. You need to work a little
drier over a sheeted foam surface than over a
wooden structure, and be careful around the
hinges and any other possible openings.
I began the Katana’s strip with a wingtip
and followed with the leading edge, trailing
edge, center-section sheeting, and the
capstrips. A single wing panel averaged just
more than 20 minutes to strip. The entire
model was completely stripped in just less
than four hours, across three sessions.
After leaving it three days to dry out, I
carefully checked the model for warps,
bowed sheeting, or damage to the foam tail
surfaces. I then cut out the wing’s silkspan
bays and gave the entire model a light
sanding.
If you have a model that you think has a
second life in it, the method I have described
is simple to do and not at all messy. Aside
from the fumes, there were no problems.
I learned that it is possible to remove the
finish in one area and not affect an adjoining
area. Since nothing was ever dripping with
thinner, I could control exactly what I was
removing. It was easy to imagine a repair in
which it would be better to strip and repaint
a portion of a model than to add layers of
paint to the area.
Last year a couple Control Line ARF
models were introduced, and now there are
three more. A full-fuselage, Classic-legal
Oriental; a Profile Cardinal; and a 1⁄2A Baby
Clown are the latest additions from Brodak
Manufacturing. The company is offering all
three ARFs with color choices. There will
even be ready-to-finish versions available if
you would rather do that part yourself.
I looked at the prototypes of these new
models, and they appeared to be light and
well built. Costs were not established at the
time I wrote this, but expect them to be
competitive with the others that are currently
available.
Responding to the many requests for a
lightweight, ball-bearing .40, Randy Smith
of Aero Products has developed a new
engine from the ground up. With the first
edition of his new Ultra Light series of PA
engines, Randy is introducing an 8-ounce,
rear-exhaust .40, and a side-exhaust version
is to follow.
If that were not enough, the second
generation of PAs has just been introduced.
These engines have a new case that has a
wider seat for the venturi and exhaust. They
also feature new, specially designed
bearings with improved seals and an I-Beam
connecting rod. MA
Sources:
Aero Products
980 Winnbrook Dr.
Dacula GA 30019
(678) 407-9376
www.aeroproduct.net
Brodak Manufacturing
100 Park Ave.
Carmichaels PA 15320
(724) 966-5975
www.brodak.com
