EIGHT YEARS AGO I couldn’t even say
“Concourse d’Elegance,” and now, thanks to
the GMBS, I have some.
What is the GMBS and what will it do
for you? It is the Granderson Machine
Buffing System and it will make your
airplane, car, or boat extremely shiny. Before
you get started machine-rubbing and
polishing your latest creation, following is
the condensed history of power tools.
Let’s skip the theology debates and agree
that men and women arrived on the planet at
the same time. Men, being the most basic of
creatures, looked at women and said,
“You’re cute.” Women are far more
complex beings. Women looked at men and
said, “Honey-do.”
Women also talked to each other a lot
and exchanged “honey-do stories.” Soon
men everywhere were overloaded and had
no time to build or fly airplanes. Although
basic by nature, men are resourceful. They
invented tools that would allow them to
complete “honey-dos” quicker so they would
have more time to build and fly.
Women kept talking to each other,
reading, and writing about the exponentially
expanding world of honey-do. Soon men
were once again overloaded and out of time
for building and flying. Men responded by
inventing power tools, and once again they
had some time for building and flying.
Men were so impressed with power tools,
they even used them to build furniture for
women. In response to furniture, women
invented interior decorating. They thought
the outlet plugs men needed to run their
power tools were ugly, so they convinced
men to put furniture in front of the plugs to
hide them.
Men got tired of moving furniture to plug
in their tools, so they solved that problem by
inventing cordless power tools. Now men are
frantically working on robots to again have
time to build and fly. Unfortunately robot
development has stalled; men have been
unable to formulate a programming
algorithm to accommodate the infinite
variations of “honey-do.”
Okay, maybe that’s really not the history
of tools, or is it?
Now it’s time to move that furniture, expose
those outlets, and take out the power tools.
This is where you get to use them to rub out
and polish the entire airplane.
You may have heard horror stories about
machine polishing. Some of you have
personal experienced with power tools
damaging or destroying your masterpiece.
I’ve certainly been there and done that.
Imagine if you will a world where the days
of power tools ripping airplanes apart are a
thing of the past.
Eight years ago I had finished the first
model in the Diva series and was facing the
monumental task of rubbing and polishing
The components the author uses in the machine buffing system. Notice the flexible shaft
and the stitching of the buffing wheel. See text for loose buff.
Dan Banjock takes Linhart Smith’s electric-powered Bearcat for a test drive.
Gid Adkisson, on the left, and Walter Hicks with Gid’s Laser design.
by hand. This prompted me to take a close
look at the problem of machine buffing. Upon
revisiting an experience that ripped a flap
completely off my new airplane in 1969 (I
remember virtually nothing about 1969 but I
do remember that), I realized that the problem
was related to friction.
As the buffing pad turned and heated the
model’s surface, the rubbing compound lost
its moisture, which acts as a lubricant.
Friction increased and caused the buffing
wheel to stick, bounce, and grab the airplane.
Parts and even entire airplanes were tossed
across workshops everywhere. This
interaction between machine and airplane
amazed and traumatized us into relegating
machine buffing to extinction.
Friction is the culprit, so how can it be
reduced or eliminated? After trying a variety
of surface lubrications such as water or even
small amounts of various oils and secret
elixirs, my objective changed from reducing
friction to actually controlling it.
Believe it or not, the heat resulting from
friction is a good thing when it comes to paint
and making things smooth and shiny. The
heat will cause the paint to briefly return to a
semiliquid form that will fill tiny low spots
and smooth the ridges that result from sanding
with even the finest abrasives.
To control friction it is necessary to
regulate the speed of the buffing pad, the
amount of pressure, and the area of surface
contact. As with most well-defined problems,
the solution involved the formulation of a
system comprising individual components to
address specific areas of the problem.
The type of buffing pad would need to
have a smaller area for surface contact. To
control the pad’s speed, the power converter
would need to have a wide range of
adjustments. The point of application where
the buffing pad touches the model would need
to be isolated from the power converter
(motor) so the pad could be easily guided and
controlled. The airplane would need to be
secured, allowing you to concentrate on
controlling the buffing pad.
The final components of the system are
the abrasive materials used for rubbing and
polishing. They would need to be well suited
for delicate work on fragile surfaces using
power buffing.
So what does all that mean? I’ll tell you the
things you need.
Before you do anything, you will need a
tool that is commonly referred to as a paint
stand. Some years ago I went searching for
such a tool and acquired several, made a
couple, and borrowed one or two. When the
fog cleared, one paint stand was heads above
the rest.
Byron Barker of C.F. Slattery Co., 2101
Logan Ave., New Albany IN 47150,
delivered the perfect paint stand. I’ll even go
out on a limb and claim that it actually may be
the perfect miniature aircraft-building tool.
I’m not sure if Byron is the designer,
manufacturer, or both, but what he delivers is
extraordinarily impressive. It is made
completely from steel with the primary parts
welded and is extremely easy to use. It can be
disassembled easily for quick storage, but
mine is always being used.
Don’t be misled by the name “paint
stand.” Although it is used during the painting
process, its usefulness starts long before and
goes well beyond painting. It holds your
airplane securely while allowing you to work
on any part with both hands and use virtually
any tool, including the ever-popular power
variety, sans GMBS.
Other items you will need are a
lightweight reversible-corded power drill with
a variable speed dial and lock and a flexible
drive shaft with a 1/4-inch chuck that is at least
36 inches long. I use Vermont American
Tools’ Flexible Drill Bit Extension (item
17106).
What about the pad? It’s time to think
outside of the box. You should use a buffing
wheel—not a traditional pad. They are called
“buffs” and are used for polishing jewelry and
a variety of other things.
Not only should the buffing tool be a
wheel, but how the wheel is constructed is
extremely important. It should be 4-6 inches
in diameter, constructed from layers of cotton
cloth sewn together to form a surface that is
approximately 1/2 to 1 inch wide on the edge.
That’s not all. How the wheel is sewn is
critical. Stitching should be close to the center
of it. The trade name is “loose buff.” I’ll have
more about this critical issue later.
What about the materials used for rubbing
and polishing? I use the 3M system consisting
of Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound and
Finesse-It II Finishing Material followed by
Meguair’s Deep Crystal System Step 2 Polish
and Step 3 Carnauba Wax.
You will need a particulate mask and eye
protection. Machine buffing and polishing is a
messy process since the materials will go
everywhere.
You can purchase most of these items at a
good hardware store. The 3M and Meguair’s
products can be obtained from automotive
paint-supply stores that stock 3M products.
The photo shows the entire system,
including rubbing compound, polish, and
wax. Take a close look at the buff. It is
composed of layers of muslin cotton. Notice
the center stitching. This type allows the
layers to spread gradually as you apply
pressure when buffing. Apply more pressure
and the buffing surface becomes larger. Apply
less pressure and the buffing surface
contracts.
That combined with the flexible shaft and
paint stand will give you a high level of
control. You can get into tight spaces and
polish with full control. I polish every inch of
my airplanes including all open bays, hatch
covers, flaps, elevators, and cowl using this
system.
Once the final clear coat has been wetsanded
using 1,200-, 1,500-, or 2,000-grit
paper, mount the airplane to the paint stand
and lock it into a position that will allow you
free access to the area where you want to
start. I usually begin on the bottom of the
wing.
The first material to use is the 3M Perfect-
It II Rubbing Compound. Be generous with
its application. The object in this first round of
buffing is to obtain a dull luster. Contrary to
what you might think, it is better to have too
much compound here rather than too little.
Go slowly, and soon you will get a feel for
the process and gain confidence in your
ability to maintain control of the buffing
wheel. During this process you will want to
regulate its speed and direction. By changing
the direction of the wheel and your angle of
attack, you can keep it rotating away from
edges as you go around tips, LEs, and TEs.
You will need to use a tool called a “rake” to
clean the excess material from the buffing
wheel.
Buff the entire airplane to a dull luster
and wipe off all the excess rubbing
compound with a soft cotton cloth. You’re
not looking for shine in this first step.
Apply the 3M Finesse-It Finishing
Material to bring out the bright shine. The
amount of material to use here is the opposite
of the rubbing compound; less is better than
too much. Clean and/or change buffing
wheels as necessary. When this process is
completed correctly, your airplane will be
shiny and smooth.
Now use the Meguair’s Deep Crystal
Step 2 Polish. Do this initially with a clean
buffing wheel and touch it up by handpolishing.
A hand-applied coat of Meguair’s
carnauba wax will bring out a deep, rich
shine.
When done properly, your airplane will
actually be slippery. Be careful; it really
could slip out of your hands! Oops, my
mistake! It’s not the airplane that slips out of
my hands; it’s that mystical 41/2 points that
separates first from third place!
There you have it. Be brave; it does work.
Disclaimer: If somehow you damage your
airplane, the responsible parties are the
power-tool manufacturer, your local electric
company, and a guy named Larry. Good luck
finding Larry; he made a fortune stuffing
envelopes at home in his spare time and
retired. He now owns an island somewhere
in the South Pacific.
And remember: Rely on the fact that
something is working to validate the fact that
it does work. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/03
Page Numbers: 144,145,146
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/03
Page Numbers: 144,145,146
EIGHT YEARS AGO I couldn’t even say
“Concourse d’Elegance,” and now, thanks to
the GMBS, I have some.
What is the GMBS and what will it do
for you? It is the Granderson Machine
Buffing System and it will make your
airplane, car, or boat extremely shiny. Before
you get started machine-rubbing and
polishing your latest creation, following is
the condensed history of power tools.
Let’s skip the theology debates and agree
that men and women arrived on the planet at
the same time. Men, being the most basic of
creatures, looked at women and said,
“You’re cute.” Women are far more
complex beings. Women looked at men and
said, “Honey-do.”
Women also talked to each other a lot
and exchanged “honey-do stories.” Soon
men everywhere were overloaded and had
no time to build or fly airplanes. Although
basic by nature, men are resourceful. They
invented tools that would allow them to
complete “honey-dos” quicker so they would
have more time to build and fly.
Women kept talking to each other,
reading, and writing about the exponentially
expanding world of honey-do. Soon men
were once again overloaded and out of time
for building and flying. Men responded by
inventing power tools, and once again they
had some time for building and flying.
Men were so impressed with power tools,
they even used them to build furniture for
women. In response to furniture, women
invented interior decorating. They thought
the outlet plugs men needed to run their
power tools were ugly, so they convinced
men to put furniture in front of the plugs to
hide them.
Men got tired of moving furniture to plug
in their tools, so they solved that problem by
inventing cordless power tools. Now men are
frantically working on robots to again have
time to build and fly. Unfortunately robot
development has stalled; men have been
unable to formulate a programming
algorithm to accommodate the infinite
variations of “honey-do.”
Okay, maybe that’s really not the history
of tools, or is it?
Now it’s time to move that furniture, expose
those outlets, and take out the power tools.
This is where you get to use them to rub out
and polish the entire airplane.
You may have heard horror stories about
machine polishing. Some of you have
personal experienced with power tools
damaging or destroying your masterpiece.
I’ve certainly been there and done that.
Imagine if you will a world where the days
of power tools ripping airplanes apart are a
thing of the past.
Eight years ago I had finished the first
model in the Diva series and was facing the
monumental task of rubbing and polishing
The components the author uses in the machine buffing system. Notice the flexible shaft
and the stitching of the buffing wheel. See text for loose buff.
Dan Banjock takes Linhart Smith’s electric-powered Bearcat for a test drive.
Gid Adkisson, on the left, and Walter Hicks with Gid’s Laser design.
by hand. This prompted me to take a close
look at the problem of machine buffing. Upon
revisiting an experience that ripped a flap
completely off my new airplane in 1969 (I
remember virtually nothing about 1969 but I
do remember that), I realized that the problem
was related to friction.
As the buffing pad turned and heated the
model’s surface, the rubbing compound lost
its moisture, which acts as a lubricant.
Friction increased and caused the buffing
wheel to stick, bounce, and grab the airplane.
Parts and even entire airplanes were tossed
across workshops everywhere. This
interaction between machine and airplane
amazed and traumatized us into relegating
machine buffing to extinction.
Friction is the culprit, so how can it be
reduced or eliminated? After trying a variety
of surface lubrications such as water or even
small amounts of various oils and secret
elixirs, my objective changed from reducing
friction to actually controlling it.
Believe it or not, the heat resulting from
friction is a good thing when it comes to paint
and making things smooth and shiny. The
heat will cause the paint to briefly return to a
semiliquid form that will fill tiny low spots
and smooth the ridges that result from sanding
with even the finest abrasives.
To control friction it is necessary to
regulate the speed of the buffing pad, the
amount of pressure, and the area of surface
contact. As with most well-defined problems,
the solution involved the formulation of a
system comprising individual components to
address specific areas of the problem.
The type of buffing pad would need to
have a smaller area for surface contact. To
control the pad’s speed, the power converter
would need to have a wide range of
adjustments. The point of application where
the buffing pad touches the model would need
to be isolated from the power converter
(motor) so the pad could be easily guided and
controlled. The airplane would need to be
secured, allowing you to concentrate on
controlling the buffing pad.
The final components of the system are
the abrasive materials used for rubbing and
polishing. They would need to be well suited
for delicate work on fragile surfaces using
power buffing.
So what does all that mean? I’ll tell you the
things you need.
Before you do anything, you will need a
tool that is commonly referred to as a paint
stand. Some years ago I went searching for
such a tool and acquired several, made a
couple, and borrowed one or two. When the
fog cleared, one paint stand was heads above
the rest.
Byron Barker of C.F. Slattery Co., 2101
Logan Ave., New Albany IN 47150,
delivered the perfect paint stand. I’ll even go
out on a limb and claim that it actually may be
the perfect miniature aircraft-building tool.
I’m not sure if Byron is the designer,
manufacturer, or both, but what he delivers is
extraordinarily impressive. It is made
completely from steel with the primary parts
welded and is extremely easy to use. It can be
disassembled easily for quick storage, but
mine is always being used.
Don’t be misled by the name “paint
stand.” Although it is used during the painting
process, its usefulness starts long before and
goes well beyond painting. It holds your
airplane securely while allowing you to work
on any part with both hands and use virtually
any tool, including the ever-popular power
variety, sans GMBS.
Other items you will need are a
lightweight reversible-corded power drill with
a variable speed dial and lock and a flexible
drive shaft with a 1/4-inch chuck that is at least
36 inches long. I use Vermont American
Tools’ Flexible Drill Bit Extension (item
17106).
What about the pad? It’s time to think
outside of the box. You should use a buffing
wheel—not a traditional pad. They are called
“buffs” and are used for polishing jewelry and
a variety of other things.
Not only should the buffing tool be a
wheel, but how the wheel is constructed is
extremely important. It should be 4-6 inches
in diameter, constructed from layers of cotton
cloth sewn together to form a surface that is
approximately 1/2 to 1 inch wide on the edge.
That’s not all. How the wheel is sewn is
critical. Stitching should be close to the center
of it. The trade name is “loose buff.” I’ll have
more about this critical issue later.
What about the materials used for rubbing
and polishing? I use the 3M system consisting
of Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound and
Finesse-It II Finishing Material followed by
Meguair’s Deep Crystal System Step 2 Polish
and Step 3 Carnauba Wax.
You will need a particulate mask and eye
protection. Machine buffing and polishing is a
messy process since the materials will go
everywhere.
You can purchase most of these items at a
good hardware store. The 3M and Meguair’s
products can be obtained from automotive
paint-supply stores that stock 3M products.
The photo shows the entire system,
including rubbing compound, polish, and
wax. Take a close look at the buff. It is
composed of layers of muslin cotton. Notice
the center stitching. This type allows the
layers to spread gradually as you apply
pressure when buffing. Apply more pressure
and the buffing surface becomes larger. Apply
less pressure and the buffing surface
contracts.
That combined with the flexible shaft and
paint stand will give you a high level of
control. You can get into tight spaces and
polish with full control. I polish every inch of
my airplanes including all open bays, hatch
covers, flaps, elevators, and cowl using this
system.
Once the final clear coat has been wetsanded
using 1,200-, 1,500-, or 2,000-grit
paper, mount the airplane to the paint stand
and lock it into a position that will allow you
free access to the area where you want to
start. I usually begin on the bottom of the
wing.
The first material to use is the 3M Perfect-
It II Rubbing Compound. Be generous with
its application. The object in this first round of
buffing is to obtain a dull luster. Contrary to
what you might think, it is better to have too
much compound here rather than too little.
Go slowly, and soon you will get a feel for
the process and gain confidence in your
ability to maintain control of the buffing
wheel. During this process you will want to
regulate its speed and direction. By changing
the direction of the wheel and your angle of
attack, you can keep it rotating away from
edges as you go around tips, LEs, and TEs.
You will need to use a tool called a “rake” to
clean the excess material from the buffing
wheel.
Buff the entire airplane to a dull luster
and wipe off all the excess rubbing
compound with a soft cotton cloth. You’re
not looking for shine in this first step.
Apply the 3M Finesse-It Finishing
Material to bring out the bright shine. The
amount of material to use here is the opposite
of the rubbing compound; less is better than
too much. Clean and/or change buffing
wheels as necessary. When this process is
completed correctly, your airplane will be
shiny and smooth.
Now use the Meguair’s Deep Crystal
Step 2 Polish. Do this initially with a clean
buffing wheel and touch it up by handpolishing.
A hand-applied coat of Meguair’s
carnauba wax will bring out a deep, rich
shine.
When done properly, your airplane will
actually be slippery. Be careful; it really
could slip out of your hands! Oops, my
mistake! It’s not the airplane that slips out of
my hands; it’s that mystical 41/2 points that
separates first from third place!
There you have it. Be brave; it does work.
Disclaimer: If somehow you damage your
airplane, the responsible parties are the
power-tool manufacturer, your local electric
company, and a guy named Larry. Good luck
finding Larry; he made a fortune stuffing
envelopes at home in his spare time and
retired. He now owns an island somewhere
in the South Pacific.
And remember: Rely on the fact that
something is working to validate the fact that
it does work. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/03
Page Numbers: 144,145,146
EIGHT YEARS AGO I couldn’t even say
“Concourse d’Elegance,” and now, thanks to
the GMBS, I have some.
What is the GMBS and what will it do
for you? It is the Granderson Machine
Buffing System and it will make your
airplane, car, or boat extremely shiny. Before
you get started machine-rubbing and
polishing your latest creation, following is
the condensed history of power tools.
Let’s skip the theology debates and agree
that men and women arrived on the planet at
the same time. Men, being the most basic of
creatures, looked at women and said,
“You’re cute.” Women are far more
complex beings. Women looked at men and
said, “Honey-do.”
Women also talked to each other a lot
and exchanged “honey-do stories.” Soon
men everywhere were overloaded and had
no time to build or fly airplanes. Although
basic by nature, men are resourceful. They
invented tools that would allow them to
complete “honey-dos” quicker so they would
have more time to build and fly.
Women kept talking to each other,
reading, and writing about the exponentially
expanding world of honey-do. Soon men
were once again overloaded and out of time
for building and flying. Men responded by
inventing power tools, and once again they
had some time for building and flying.
Men were so impressed with power tools,
they even used them to build furniture for
women. In response to furniture, women
invented interior decorating. They thought
the outlet plugs men needed to run their
power tools were ugly, so they convinced
men to put furniture in front of the plugs to
hide them.
Men got tired of moving furniture to plug
in their tools, so they solved that problem by
inventing cordless power tools. Now men are
frantically working on robots to again have
time to build and fly. Unfortunately robot
development has stalled; men have been
unable to formulate a programming
algorithm to accommodate the infinite
variations of “honey-do.”
Okay, maybe that’s really not the history
of tools, or is it?
Now it’s time to move that furniture, expose
those outlets, and take out the power tools.
This is where you get to use them to rub out
and polish the entire airplane.
You may have heard horror stories about
machine polishing. Some of you have
personal experienced with power tools
damaging or destroying your masterpiece.
I’ve certainly been there and done that.
Imagine if you will a world where the days
of power tools ripping airplanes apart are a
thing of the past.
Eight years ago I had finished the first
model in the Diva series and was facing the
monumental task of rubbing and polishing
The components the author uses in the machine buffing system. Notice the flexible shaft
and the stitching of the buffing wheel. See text for loose buff.
Dan Banjock takes Linhart Smith’s electric-powered Bearcat for a test drive.
Gid Adkisson, on the left, and Walter Hicks with Gid’s Laser design.
by hand. This prompted me to take a close
look at the problem of machine buffing. Upon
revisiting an experience that ripped a flap
completely off my new airplane in 1969 (I
remember virtually nothing about 1969 but I
do remember that), I realized that the problem
was related to friction.
As the buffing pad turned and heated the
model’s surface, the rubbing compound lost
its moisture, which acts as a lubricant.
Friction increased and caused the buffing
wheel to stick, bounce, and grab the airplane.
Parts and even entire airplanes were tossed
across workshops everywhere. This
interaction between machine and airplane
amazed and traumatized us into relegating
machine buffing to extinction.
Friction is the culprit, so how can it be
reduced or eliminated? After trying a variety
of surface lubrications such as water or even
small amounts of various oils and secret
elixirs, my objective changed from reducing
friction to actually controlling it.
Believe it or not, the heat resulting from
friction is a good thing when it comes to paint
and making things smooth and shiny. The
heat will cause the paint to briefly return to a
semiliquid form that will fill tiny low spots
and smooth the ridges that result from sanding
with even the finest abrasives.
To control friction it is necessary to
regulate the speed of the buffing pad, the
amount of pressure, and the area of surface
contact. As with most well-defined problems,
the solution involved the formulation of a
system comprising individual components to
address specific areas of the problem.
The type of buffing pad would need to
have a smaller area for surface contact. To
control the pad’s speed, the power converter
would need to have a wide range of
adjustments. The point of application where
the buffing pad touches the model would need
to be isolated from the power converter
(motor) so the pad could be easily guided and
controlled. The airplane would need to be
secured, allowing you to concentrate on
controlling the buffing pad.
The final components of the system are
the abrasive materials used for rubbing and
polishing. They would need to be well suited
for delicate work on fragile surfaces using
power buffing.
So what does all that mean? I’ll tell you the
things you need.
Before you do anything, you will need a
tool that is commonly referred to as a paint
stand. Some years ago I went searching for
such a tool and acquired several, made a
couple, and borrowed one or two. When the
fog cleared, one paint stand was heads above
the rest.
Byron Barker of C.F. Slattery Co., 2101
Logan Ave., New Albany IN 47150,
delivered the perfect paint stand. I’ll even go
out on a limb and claim that it actually may be
the perfect miniature aircraft-building tool.
I’m not sure if Byron is the designer,
manufacturer, or both, but what he delivers is
extraordinarily impressive. It is made
completely from steel with the primary parts
welded and is extremely easy to use. It can be
disassembled easily for quick storage, but
mine is always being used.
Don’t be misled by the name “paint
stand.” Although it is used during the painting
process, its usefulness starts long before and
goes well beyond painting. It holds your
airplane securely while allowing you to work
on any part with both hands and use virtually
any tool, including the ever-popular power
variety, sans GMBS.
Other items you will need are a
lightweight reversible-corded power drill with
a variable speed dial and lock and a flexible
drive shaft with a 1/4-inch chuck that is at least
36 inches long. I use Vermont American
Tools’ Flexible Drill Bit Extension (item
17106).
What about the pad? It’s time to think
outside of the box. You should use a buffing
wheel—not a traditional pad. They are called
“buffs” and are used for polishing jewelry and
a variety of other things.
Not only should the buffing tool be a
wheel, but how the wheel is constructed is
extremely important. It should be 4-6 inches
in diameter, constructed from layers of cotton
cloth sewn together to form a surface that is
approximately 1/2 to 1 inch wide on the edge.
That’s not all. How the wheel is sewn is
critical. Stitching should be close to the center
of it. The trade name is “loose buff.” I’ll have
more about this critical issue later.
What about the materials used for rubbing
and polishing? I use the 3M system consisting
of Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound and
Finesse-It II Finishing Material followed by
Meguair’s Deep Crystal System Step 2 Polish
and Step 3 Carnauba Wax.
You will need a particulate mask and eye
protection. Machine buffing and polishing is a
messy process since the materials will go
everywhere.
You can purchase most of these items at a
good hardware store. The 3M and Meguair’s
products can be obtained from automotive
paint-supply stores that stock 3M products.
The photo shows the entire system,
including rubbing compound, polish, and
wax. Take a close look at the buff. It is
composed of layers of muslin cotton. Notice
the center stitching. This type allows the
layers to spread gradually as you apply
pressure when buffing. Apply more pressure
and the buffing surface becomes larger. Apply
less pressure and the buffing surface
contracts.
That combined with the flexible shaft and
paint stand will give you a high level of
control. You can get into tight spaces and
polish with full control. I polish every inch of
my airplanes including all open bays, hatch
covers, flaps, elevators, and cowl using this
system.
Once the final clear coat has been wetsanded
using 1,200-, 1,500-, or 2,000-grit
paper, mount the airplane to the paint stand
and lock it into a position that will allow you
free access to the area where you want to
start. I usually begin on the bottom of the
wing.
The first material to use is the 3M Perfect-
It II Rubbing Compound. Be generous with
its application. The object in this first round of
buffing is to obtain a dull luster. Contrary to
what you might think, it is better to have too
much compound here rather than too little.
Go slowly, and soon you will get a feel for
the process and gain confidence in your
ability to maintain control of the buffing
wheel. During this process you will want to
regulate its speed and direction. By changing
the direction of the wheel and your angle of
attack, you can keep it rotating away from
edges as you go around tips, LEs, and TEs.
You will need to use a tool called a “rake” to
clean the excess material from the buffing
wheel.
Buff the entire airplane to a dull luster
and wipe off all the excess rubbing
compound with a soft cotton cloth. You’re
not looking for shine in this first step.
Apply the 3M Finesse-It Finishing
Material to bring out the bright shine. The
amount of material to use here is the opposite
of the rubbing compound; less is better than
too much. Clean and/or change buffing
wheels as necessary. When this process is
completed correctly, your airplane will be
shiny and smooth.
Now use the Meguair’s Deep Crystal
Step 2 Polish. Do this initially with a clean
buffing wheel and touch it up by handpolishing.
A hand-applied coat of Meguair’s
carnauba wax will bring out a deep, rich
shine.
When done properly, your airplane will
actually be slippery. Be careful; it really
could slip out of your hands! Oops, my
mistake! It’s not the airplane that slips out of
my hands; it’s that mystical 41/2 points that
separates first from third place!
There you have it. Be brave; it does work.
Disclaimer: If somehow you damage your
airplane, the responsible parties are the
power-tool manufacturer, your local electric
company, and a guy named Larry. Good luck
finding Larry; he made a fortune stuffing
envelopes at home in his spare time and
retired. He now owns an island somewhere
in the South Pacific.
And remember: Rely on the fact that
something is working to validate the fact that
it does work. MA