140 MODEL AVIATION
DO YOU EVER wonder why some Combat
pilots consistently place high in the contests
they attend? Some of it has to do with flying
skill, but a lot has to do with the preparation
of engines and models. Often, it is not the
fastest model that makes it to the winner’s
circle; it is the reliable and consistent model.
Part of the preparation involves trimming
the aircraft so that its flight pattern is true and
precise. During the past several years, most
competitive Combat pilots have been buying
boxes of eight to 12 RTF models, but Ready
to Fly is not always fully ready to fly. Each
model needs to be looked at carefully to
identify warps.
Although the quality of the models you
can get is terrific, there is a human being in a
workroom somewhere cutting and assembling
pieces. His or her level of focus will vary as
the day progresses, just as it does with any
other human being.
I have made plenty of mistakes when I
have built batches of models for myself. The
fit of parts might not be as exact as I would
like, or the model’s covering gets heated a
little too much in one direction, causing a
warp.
The first thing I do when setting up a
new model is to sight along the TE to see if
there are any noticeable warps. You can
hold the model in one hand and prop it up
against your feet with the wing resting on
your shins, or you can set the model on a
box to look along the TE to see if it is dead
center with the LE. If you notice a high or
low spot, heat the covering with an iron or
heat gun to take out the warp.
Actually flying the model will tell you if
there are any other slight warps that you may
have missed. If the model flies with the
outboard wing high during level flight and
with the outboard wing low during inverted
flight, you must make a correction.
You can correct this condition by bending
and heating the inboard wing down or
bending and heating the outboard wing up.
You will need to reverse this procedure if you
have a model that flies with the outboard wing
down.
We are fortunate here in Southern
California to have several pilots who bring
portable generators to the field so that these
corrections can be made on the spot. It would
be good to use a small amount of fuel for your
first flights or until the model is fully
trimmed.
Another thing you might notice is that the
model flies outboard-wing high in level flight
and in inverted flight. You can usually correct
this by adding a bit more tip weight. Many
people these days just tape pennies to the
outboard wing. You can do that at the field
and test it immediately.
Ideally, you want the model to fly flat in
level and inverted flight. With the handle at
eye level, you want to sight down the lines
and see the inboard wing only. Warped
models do weird things on the end of the
lines. Severely warped models will bounce on
the end of the lines, fly across the circle, lose
line tension, and often crash.
Crashes will cost you money. Also, every
CONTROL LINE COMBAT
Rich von Lopez, 8334 Colegio Dr., Los Angeles CA 90045
UK’s Dave Reilly shows good form before launch. Note his finger protection.
Laura Leino of Finland does battle with
Rik Olijve of the Netherlands. She has
fast models and knows how to use them.
Stanislav Culacichin of Moldova mixes it
up with Henning Forbeck of Denmark. The
author wonders if the sunglasses help.
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:23 am Page 140
time I crash a model and get dirt in the
engine, I take the engine apart and clean it
thoroughly, and it takes a great deal of time.
As long as I am writing about trimming, I
should discuss balance. Where should you
balance your model? The advent of metal
engine mounts with adjustment slots gave us
the ability to fine-tune our models’ balance
points. Back in the good, old days of wooden
engine mounts, balancing was done by
adding weights to the front or rear of the
aircraft.
True modelers are always in search of
lighter models because they know that a
lighter airplane will perform better than a
heavy one. The engine will have to work less
to pull the model along. You might even be
able to run more pitch on your propeller with
a light model.
In the late 1960s or early 1970s, I came
into ownership of a SuperTigre G21-35 rearintake
engine. It made lots of power but was
heavier than the regular front-intake G21, and
because it was a rear intake, it had to be
mounted quite a bit farther forward on the
model.
I had the SuperTigre mounted on a
Sneeker, and during the first flight I almost
crashed the airplane because it was so noseheavy
and did not want to turn. I ended up
bolting 2 or 3 ounces of lead fishing sinkers
to the TE before it flew somewhat normal.
The problem with all that extra weight was
that the advantage of the extra power was
lost.
At contests and the practice field,
sometimes you could see models with lead
bolted to their noses. This must have meant
that they were tail-heavy because of design
flaws or heavy building.
You should know the weight of each of
your engines. I own at least 10 different types
of F2D engines, and each weighs a different
amount. I am using only two different types
of models and am constantly swapping
engines on the same aircraft. The same model
will fly different depending on what engine is
bolted to the nose.
This is where having those slotted engine
mounts comes in handy. The power plants
can be slid fore and aft, depending on where
you want the airplane to balance.
Now that I am well into middle age, I like
my models a little more steady than I did
when I was a teen-ager. I still like them to
respond quickly, but only when they are told
to do so. I like to be able to fly an airplane
without having to look at it. I also want to be
able to fly it low in an inverted position
without having to worry about it bouncing
into the ground on its own.
I like to balance the model so that it will
fly consistently at the same height without
altering altitude. I have had some models that
liked to “hunt,” meaning that they traveled
around the circle, changing altitude without
my giving any control. A hunting condition
means that you have a tail-heavy model. It
will also want to overturn when given
control.
Overturning means that the model
completes the turn just as you have begun
August 2004 141
feeding in control. A model that overturns
will also want to go into a second turn or loop
even though you do not want it to. This kind
of airplane is almost impossible to fly in a
match against someone.
Figure out a balance point where you are
comfortable flying, and then try to get all of
your models to balance at a similar point. You
will have much more fun and be more
successful during competitions.
The one thing I have not discussed that
will have a big impact on how a model flies is
the line spacing on a control handle. Wide
spacing on a handle will require less wrist and
arm movement to get the model to maneuver.
It will help with a nose-heavy model. Close
spacing on your handle will require more
wrist and arm movement to achieve the same
results as with a handle with wide spacing.
The spacing I use varies, depending on
what size airplane I am flying. I use a 13⁄4-
inch spacing for my 1⁄2A models, a 31⁄2-inch
spacing for my FAI models, and a 41⁄8-inch
spacing for my Fast and 80 mph models.
Having handles you can adjust allows you
to experiment and find what you like best. I
learned that using close spacing that required
a great deal of arm and wrist action fatigued
my arm when flying Fast Combat models—
especially if I was putting them through their
paces.
Time is becoming a precious commodity,
especially for flying models. Work and family
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:24 am Page 141
142 MODEL AVIATION
commitments require that jobs be done on the
weekends, which were once totally mine. But
such is life.
That means any projects that can be done
at home should be done at home—not at the
flying field. Cutting lines and working on
engines are best done in a clean environment.
Making bladders and fixing broken models
should also be done at home.
I want to maximize flying time when I
make trips out to the flying field. I currently
have to drive 35 miles to get to the Whittier
Narrows National recreation facility in South
El Monte, California. If you are serious about
your hobby, try to maximize your field time.
If you just want to kick back and socialize,
do as you wish.
Tru-Turn now offers the popular Ultimate shape in EIGHT
different sizes! This Spinner looks great on your Cessna as well
as CAP, Edge, Extra, Giles, and many other aerobatic and sport
designs.
You'll find this Spinner available in "120-Slot" for the prop range
used on 4-stroke .91-1.50 motors and "Menz Cut" for use with
most european style props up to 22". Special Slotting is
available upon request too! Use our "Adapter Finder" online to
find an Adapter Kit and learn of any possible Spinner Backplate
modifications you may need at our website today!
See your Hobby dealer or call Tru-Turn direct:
(281) 479-9600 www.tru-turn.com
Made in the U.S.A.
by Romco Manufacturing, Inc.
100 West First Street, Deer Park, Texas 77536
Made in the U.S.A.
The Academy of Model Aeronautics
recognizes SIGs for a variety of modeling
disciplines. The Miniature Aircraft Combat
Association (MACA) is the officially
recognized SIG for CL Combat. This
organization has been in existence for 30
years. It needs to have all Combat-interested
individuals as members.
Bill Maywald is the newsletter editor and
would love to see the membership increase.
MACA News keeps people current on what is
happening across the United States and
around the world.
Send your $15 dues to the treasurer, Gene
Berry, at 4610 89th St., Lubbock TX 79424.
Better yet, Send $30 for a two-year
membership. MA
,
FIBERGLASS CLOTH
Premium Grade
3/4 oz 38”W 10 yrd. min. $2.50 yd.
Lower Prices 30 yds. & up
Other Weights Available
TinLin’s
17 Andrews Drive • Daleville, AL 36322
(334) 598-2287 • 4:00 - 10:00 CST
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:24 am Page 142
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/08
Page Numbers: 140,141,142
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/08
Page Numbers: 140,141,142
140 MODEL AVIATION
DO YOU EVER wonder why some Combat
pilots consistently place high in the contests
they attend? Some of it has to do with flying
skill, but a lot has to do with the preparation
of engines and models. Often, it is not the
fastest model that makes it to the winner’s
circle; it is the reliable and consistent model.
Part of the preparation involves trimming
the aircraft so that its flight pattern is true and
precise. During the past several years, most
competitive Combat pilots have been buying
boxes of eight to 12 RTF models, but Ready
to Fly is not always fully ready to fly. Each
model needs to be looked at carefully to
identify warps.
Although the quality of the models you
can get is terrific, there is a human being in a
workroom somewhere cutting and assembling
pieces. His or her level of focus will vary as
the day progresses, just as it does with any
other human being.
I have made plenty of mistakes when I
have built batches of models for myself. The
fit of parts might not be as exact as I would
like, or the model’s covering gets heated a
little too much in one direction, causing a
warp.
The first thing I do when setting up a
new model is to sight along the TE to see if
there are any noticeable warps. You can
hold the model in one hand and prop it up
against your feet with the wing resting on
your shins, or you can set the model on a
box to look along the TE to see if it is dead
center with the LE. If you notice a high or
low spot, heat the covering with an iron or
heat gun to take out the warp.
Actually flying the model will tell you if
there are any other slight warps that you may
have missed. If the model flies with the
outboard wing high during level flight and
with the outboard wing low during inverted
flight, you must make a correction.
You can correct this condition by bending
and heating the inboard wing down or
bending and heating the outboard wing up.
You will need to reverse this procedure if you
have a model that flies with the outboard wing
down.
We are fortunate here in Southern
California to have several pilots who bring
portable generators to the field so that these
corrections can be made on the spot. It would
be good to use a small amount of fuel for your
first flights or until the model is fully
trimmed.
Another thing you might notice is that the
model flies outboard-wing high in level flight
and in inverted flight. You can usually correct
this by adding a bit more tip weight. Many
people these days just tape pennies to the
outboard wing. You can do that at the field
and test it immediately.
Ideally, you want the model to fly flat in
level and inverted flight. With the handle at
eye level, you want to sight down the lines
and see the inboard wing only. Warped
models do weird things on the end of the
lines. Severely warped models will bounce on
the end of the lines, fly across the circle, lose
line tension, and often crash.
Crashes will cost you money. Also, every
CONTROL LINE COMBAT
Rich von Lopez, 8334 Colegio Dr., Los Angeles CA 90045
UK’s Dave Reilly shows good form before launch. Note his finger protection.
Laura Leino of Finland does battle with
Rik Olijve of the Netherlands. She has
fast models and knows how to use them.
Stanislav Culacichin of Moldova mixes it
up with Henning Forbeck of Denmark. The
author wonders if the sunglasses help.
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:23 am Page 140
time I crash a model and get dirt in the
engine, I take the engine apart and clean it
thoroughly, and it takes a great deal of time.
As long as I am writing about trimming, I
should discuss balance. Where should you
balance your model? The advent of metal
engine mounts with adjustment slots gave us
the ability to fine-tune our models’ balance
points. Back in the good, old days of wooden
engine mounts, balancing was done by
adding weights to the front or rear of the
aircraft.
True modelers are always in search of
lighter models because they know that a
lighter airplane will perform better than a
heavy one. The engine will have to work less
to pull the model along. You might even be
able to run more pitch on your propeller with
a light model.
In the late 1960s or early 1970s, I came
into ownership of a SuperTigre G21-35 rearintake
engine. It made lots of power but was
heavier than the regular front-intake G21, and
because it was a rear intake, it had to be
mounted quite a bit farther forward on the
model.
I had the SuperTigre mounted on a
Sneeker, and during the first flight I almost
crashed the airplane because it was so noseheavy
and did not want to turn. I ended up
bolting 2 or 3 ounces of lead fishing sinkers
to the TE before it flew somewhat normal.
The problem with all that extra weight was
that the advantage of the extra power was
lost.
At contests and the practice field,
sometimes you could see models with lead
bolted to their noses. This must have meant
that they were tail-heavy because of design
flaws or heavy building.
You should know the weight of each of
your engines. I own at least 10 different types
of F2D engines, and each weighs a different
amount. I am using only two different types
of models and am constantly swapping
engines on the same aircraft. The same model
will fly different depending on what engine is
bolted to the nose.
This is where having those slotted engine
mounts comes in handy. The power plants
can be slid fore and aft, depending on where
you want the airplane to balance.
Now that I am well into middle age, I like
my models a little more steady than I did
when I was a teen-ager. I still like them to
respond quickly, but only when they are told
to do so. I like to be able to fly an airplane
without having to look at it. I also want to be
able to fly it low in an inverted position
without having to worry about it bouncing
into the ground on its own.
I like to balance the model so that it will
fly consistently at the same height without
altering altitude. I have had some models that
liked to “hunt,” meaning that they traveled
around the circle, changing altitude without
my giving any control. A hunting condition
means that you have a tail-heavy model. It
will also want to overturn when given
control.
Overturning means that the model
completes the turn just as you have begun
August 2004 141
feeding in control. A model that overturns
will also want to go into a second turn or loop
even though you do not want it to. This kind
of airplane is almost impossible to fly in a
match against someone.
Figure out a balance point where you are
comfortable flying, and then try to get all of
your models to balance at a similar point. You
will have much more fun and be more
successful during competitions.
The one thing I have not discussed that
will have a big impact on how a model flies is
the line spacing on a control handle. Wide
spacing on a handle will require less wrist and
arm movement to get the model to maneuver.
It will help with a nose-heavy model. Close
spacing on your handle will require more
wrist and arm movement to achieve the same
results as with a handle with wide spacing.
The spacing I use varies, depending on
what size airplane I am flying. I use a 13⁄4-
inch spacing for my 1⁄2A models, a 31⁄2-inch
spacing for my FAI models, and a 41⁄8-inch
spacing for my Fast and 80 mph models.
Having handles you can adjust allows you
to experiment and find what you like best. I
learned that using close spacing that required
a great deal of arm and wrist action fatigued
my arm when flying Fast Combat models—
especially if I was putting them through their
paces.
Time is becoming a precious commodity,
especially for flying models. Work and family
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:24 am Page 141
142 MODEL AVIATION
commitments require that jobs be done on the
weekends, which were once totally mine. But
such is life.
That means any projects that can be done
at home should be done at home—not at the
flying field. Cutting lines and working on
engines are best done in a clean environment.
Making bladders and fixing broken models
should also be done at home.
I want to maximize flying time when I
make trips out to the flying field. I currently
have to drive 35 miles to get to the Whittier
Narrows National recreation facility in South
El Monte, California. If you are serious about
your hobby, try to maximize your field time.
If you just want to kick back and socialize,
do as you wish.
Tru-Turn now offers the popular Ultimate shape in EIGHT
different sizes! This Spinner looks great on your Cessna as well
as CAP, Edge, Extra, Giles, and many other aerobatic and sport
designs.
You'll find this Spinner available in "120-Slot" for the prop range
used on 4-stroke .91-1.50 motors and "Menz Cut" for use with
most european style props up to 22". Special Slotting is
available upon request too! Use our "Adapter Finder" online to
find an Adapter Kit and learn of any possible Spinner Backplate
modifications you may need at our website today!
See your Hobby dealer or call Tru-Turn direct:
(281) 479-9600 www.tru-turn.com
Made in the U.S.A.
by Romco Manufacturing, Inc.
100 West First Street, Deer Park, Texas 77536
Made in the U.S.A.
The Academy of Model Aeronautics
recognizes SIGs for a variety of modeling
disciplines. The Miniature Aircraft Combat
Association (MACA) is the officially
recognized SIG for CL Combat. This
organization has been in existence for 30
years. It needs to have all Combat-interested
individuals as members.
Bill Maywald is the newsletter editor and
would love to see the membership increase.
MACA News keeps people current on what is
happening across the United States and
around the world.
Send your $15 dues to the treasurer, Gene
Berry, at 4610 89th St., Lubbock TX 79424.
Better yet, Send $30 for a two-year
membership. MA
,
FIBERGLASS CLOTH
Premium Grade
3/4 oz 38”W 10 yrd. min. $2.50 yd.
Lower Prices 30 yds. & up
Other Weights Available
TinLin’s
17 Andrews Drive • Daleville, AL 36322
(334) 598-2287 • 4:00 - 10:00 CST
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:24 am Page 142
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/08
Page Numbers: 140,141,142
140 MODEL AVIATION
DO YOU EVER wonder why some Combat
pilots consistently place high in the contests
they attend? Some of it has to do with flying
skill, but a lot has to do with the preparation
of engines and models. Often, it is not the
fastest model that makes it to the winner’s
circle; it is the reliable and consistent model.
Part of the preparation involves trimming
the aircraft so that its flight pattern is true and
precise. During the past several years, most
competitive Combat pilots have been buying
boxes of eight to 12 RTF models, but Ready
to Fly is not always fully ready to fly. Each
model needs to be looked at carefully to
identify warps.
Although the quality of the models you
can get is terrific, there is a human being in a
workroom somewhere cutting and assembling
pieces. His or her level of focus will vary as
the day progresses, just as it does with any
other human being.
I have made plenty of mistakes when I
have built batches of models for myself. The
fit of parts might not be as exact as I would
like, or the model’s covering gets heated a
little too much in one direction, causing a
warp.
The first thing I do when setting up a
new model is to sight along the TE to see if
there are any noticeable warps. You can
hold the model in one hand and prop it up
against your feet with the wing resting on
your shins, or you can set the model on a
box to look along the TE to see if it is dead
center with the LE. If you notice a high or
low spot, heat the covering with an iron or
heat gun to take out the warp.
Actually flying the model will tell you if
there are any other slight warps that you may
have missed. If the model flies with the
outboard wing high during level flight and
with the outboard wing low during inverted
flight, you must make a correction.
You can correct this condition by bending
and heating the inboard wing down or
bending and heating the outboard wing up.
You will need to reverse this procedure if you
have a model that flies with the outboard wing
down.
We are fortunate here in Southern
California to have several pilots who bring
portable generators to the field so that these
corrections can be made on the spot. It would
be good to use a small amount of fuel for your
first flights or until the model is fully
trimmed.
Another thing you might notice is that the
model flies outboard-wing high in level flight
and in inverted flight. You can usually correct
this by adding a bit more tip weight. Many
people these days just tape pennies to the
outboard wing. You can do that at the field
and test it immediately.
Ideally, you want the model to fly flat in
level and inverted flight. With the handle at
eye level, you want to sight down the lines
and see the inboard wing only. Warped
models do weird things on the end of the
lines. Severely warped models will bounce on
the end of the lines, fly across the circle, lose
line tension, and often crash.
Crashes will cost you money. Also, every
CONTROL LINE COMBAT
Rich von Lopez, 8334 Colegio Dr., Los Angeles CA 90045
UK’s Dave Reilly shows good form before launch. Note his finger protection.
Laura Leino of Finland does battle with
Rik Olijve of the Netherlands. She has
fast models and knows how to use them.
Stanislav Culacichin of Moldova mixes it
up with Henning Forbeck of Denmark. The
author wonders if the sunglasses help.
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:23 am Page 140
time I crash a model and get dirt in the
engine, I take the engine apart and clean it
thoroughly, and it takes a great deal of time.
As long as I am writing about trimming, I
should discuss balance. Where should you
balance your model? The advent of metal
engine mounts with adjustment slots gave us
the ability to fine-tune our models’ balance
points. Back in the good, old days of wooden
engine mounts, balancing was done by
adding weights to the front or rear of the
aircraft.
True modelers are always in search of
lighter models because they know that a
lighter airplane will perform better than a
heavy one. The engine will have to work less
to pull the model along. You might even be
able to run more pitch on your propeller with
a light model.
In the late 1960s or early 1970s, I came
into ownership of a SuperTigre G21-35 rearintake
engine. It made lots of power but was
heavier than the regular front-intake G21, and
because it was a rear intake, it had to be
mounted quite a bit farther forward on the
model.
I had the SuperTigre mounted on a
Sneeker, and during the first flight I almost
crashed the airplane because it was so noseheavy
and did not want to turn. I ended up
bolting 2 or 3 ounces of lead fishing sinkers
to the TE before it flew somewhat normal.
The problem with all that extra weight was
that the advantage of the extra power was
lost.
At contests and the practice field,
sometimes you could see models with lead
bolted to their noses. This must have meant
that they were tail-heavy because of design
flaws or heavy building.
You should know the weight of each of
your engines. I own at least 10 different types
of F2D engines, and each weighs a different
amount. I am using only two different types
of models and am constantly swapping
engines on the same aircraft. The same model
will fly different depending on what engine is
bolted to the nose.
This is where having those slotted engine
mounts comes in handy. The power plants
can be slid fore and aft, depending on where
you want the airplane to balance.
Now that I am well into middle age, I like
my models a little more steady than I did
when I was a teen-ager. I still like them to
respond quickly, but only when they are told
to do so. I like to be able to fly an airplane
without having to look at it. I also want to be
able to fly it low in an inverted position
without having to worry about it bouncing
into the ground on its own.
I like to balance the model so that it will
fly consistently at the same height without
altering altitude. I have had some models that
liked to “hunt,” meaning that they traveled
around the circle, changing altitude without
my giving any control. A hunting condition
means that you have a tail-heavy model. It
will also want to overturn when given
control.
Overturning means that the model
completes the turn just as you have begun
August 2004 141
feeding in control. A model that overturns
will also want to go into a second turn or loop
even though you do not want it to. This kind
of airplane is almost impossible to fly in a
match against someone.
Figure out a balance point where you are
comfortable flying, and then try to get all of
your models to balance at a similar point. You
will have much more fun and be more
successful during competitions.
The one thing I have not discussed that
will have a big impact on how a model flies is
the line spacing on a control handle. Wide
spacing on a handle will require less wrist and
arm movement to get the model to maneuver.
It will help with a nose-heavy model. Close
spacing on your handle will require more
wrist and arm movement to achieve the same
results as with a handle with wide spacing.
The spacing I use varies, depending on
what size airplane I am flying. I use a 13⁄4-
inch spacing for my 1⁄2A models, a 31⁄2-inch
spacing for my FAI models, and a 41⁄8-inch
spacing for my Fast and 80 mph models.
Having handles you can adjust allows you
to experiment and find what you like best. I
learned that using close spacing that required
a great deal of arm and wrist action fatigued
my arm when flying Fast Combat models—
especially if I was putting them through their
paces.
Time is becoming a precious commodity,
especially for flying models. Work and family
08sig5.QXD 5/21/04 11:24 am Page 141
142 MODEL AVIATION
commitments require that jobs be done on the
weekends, which were once totally mine. But
such is life.
That means any projects that can be done
at home should be done at home—not at the
flying field. Cutting lines and working on
engines are best done in a clean environment.
Making bladders and fixing broken models
should also be done at home.
I want to maximize flying time when I
make trips out to the flying field. I currently
have to drive 35 miles to get to the Whittier
Narrows National recreation facility in South
El Monte, California. If you are serious about
your hobby, try to maximize your field time.
If you just want to kick back and socialize,
do as you wish.
Tru-Turn now offers the popular Ultimate shape in EIGHT
different sizes! This Spinner looks great on your Cessna as well
as CAP, Edge, Extra, Giles, and many other aerobatic and sport
designs.
You'll find this Spinner available in "120-Slot" for the prop range
used on 4-stroke .91-1.50 motors and "Menz Cut" for use with
most european style props up to 22". Special Slotting is
available upon request too! Use our "Adapter Finder" online to
find an Adapter Kit and learn of any possible Spinner Backplate
modifications you may need at our website today!
See your Hobby dealer or call Tru-Turn direct:
(281) 479-9600 www.tru-turn.com
Made in the U.S.A.
by Romco Manufacturing, Inc.
100 West First Street, Deer Park, Texas 77536
Made in the U.S.A.
The Academy of Model Aeronautics
recognizes SIGs for a variety of modeling
disciplines. The Miniature Aircraft Combat
Association (MACA) is the officially
recognized SIG for CL Combat. This
organization has been in existence for 30
years. It needs to have all Combat-interested
individuals as members.
Bill Maywald is the newsletter editor and
would love to see the membership increase.
MACA News keeps people current on what is
happening across the United States and
around the world.
Send your $15 dues to the treasurer, Gene
Berry, at 4610 89th St., Lubbock TX 79424.
Better yet, Send $30 for a two-year
membership. MA
,
FIBERGLASS CLOTH
Premium Grade
3/4 oz 38”W 10 yrd. min. $2.50 yd.
Lower Prices 30 yds. & up
Other Weights Available
TinLin’s
17 Andrews Drive • Daleville, AL 36322
(334) 598-2287 • 4:00 - 10:00 CST
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