THE TYPICAL Control Line (CL) model is flown from a concrete or grass circle and uses normal wheels for landing gear. CL models with floats are rarely seen, and flying CL models from water is unique. While the Northwest Regionals CL contest was held at the Roseburg Regional Airport in Oregon from 1997 through 2(K)1, CL models were flown from a float pond as an official event. Flying CL models from water has been done in the past, but flying from u pond this size is rare. From 1998 through 2001 a group of us pilots had the pleasure of flying large CL models from a permanent pond built into the ground at the Roseburg airport. We flew all types and sizes of models, from '/:A-powered airplanes all the way up to a 17-pound model with an O.S. 90 four-stroke for power! Aircraft Configuration: Picking the model you want to fly from water is important. You can sec from the photographs that we have flown several types of models, including a Boeing 314 Clipper, a PBY Catalina, a Piper Cub, and even a Grumman Tigercat. The Clipper and the PBY are flying boats, and the fuselages are used for flotation. The Cub and the Tigercat each used a pair of floats. The Cub was by far the easiest to set up and fly from the pond, and the PBY was the most difficult. A flying boat typically has tip floats mounted on the wings. The relative size of the fuselage will determine how easily the aircraft will take off. The Kyosho PBY that we flew from the Roseburg pond had a relatively small nose and tended to plow the water on takeoff. Sometimes the nose section would want to dive underneath the surface of the water. The Clipper had a relatively tall fuselage and did not exhibit any of the problems noted with the PBY. Weight plays a crucial part. If the model is too heavy and the size of the fuselage hull is insufficient to hold the weight, the model may sink too much to allow for easy takeoff. This was the case with the Grumman Albatross shown in the photographs. The PBY and the Albatross were more difficult to get airborne than the Clipper because of the fuselage configuration, weight, and relative size of the nose section. The Cub was easy to set up. and few problems were noted. I fly the Hangar 9 Piper Cub. which has an 81-inch wingspan and an Astro geared 40 electric motor for power. At first glance the 60-size floats look too big for this airplane, but you will appreciate their size the first time you put the Cub in the water. The Tigercat is a 41-inch-span, scratchbuilt model that I put floats on for the fun of it. The full-scale Tigercat did not have floats. This model proved to be very heavy and flew very fast, making it a challenge to fly from the pond. Takeoff was no problem, but landing was the most difficult because of the high stall speed. Floats: The floats have to be properly positioned on the model (see Figure #2) for the model to lift off the pond correctly. If the floats are too small, the model will sink and will be difficult to get on step. If the floats are too big, the weight and drag will become an issue. Using floats that are durable and light is also important. The Cub that I fly uses the Great Planes 60-size balsa-wood floats that are built from a kit. This kit is worth the money and builds up easily. The only modifications I made were to replace the plywood behind the step with balsa and cover the entire float with 3/4-ounce fiberglass. The bottom of the float received two layers of fiberglass for durability since the models occasionally hit the ramp at the end of the pond or land in the grass. My red-white-and-blue camera model had scratch-built floats (48 inches long!) cut from white one-pound foam, sheeted with balsa, then fiberglassed. Grant Hiestand's Supermarine S.6B had fiberglass floats made from his own molds, which proved to be the lightest and best approach. Water Rudder: The water rudder is not required on all models, but be prepared to install one if needed. You may not find out that your model needs a water rudder until you fly it. The water rudder needs to be adjustable to make sure the model tracks properly through the water during takeoff and landing. The line guide does not play a part in how well the model tracks through the water during slow-speed operation. After the model gets enough speed, the water rudder is not as important and the line guide takes over to maintain line tension. Takeoff: Takeoff from the Roseburg pond required power and proper technique since the water runway was only 190 feet long. The procedure for the Cub required me to set the elevator to neutral (no up or down initially) and apply the power slowly at first to get the model moving through the water. Once the Cub was tracking correctly (this took no more than five feet) I applied full power, and within 100 feet the model was on step and quickly approaching takeoff speed. By the time the Cub hit the 150-foot mark, I applied up-elevator and it lifted off with no trouble. The first attempt to fly this model from the pond was done with some down-elevator during the initial takeoff run, and results were not good. The Albatross set so deep in the water because of its overall weight that it had a difficult time getting up on step, thus it was difficult to get airborne. Additionally. the Albatross's propellers were close to the water and created additional spray. The PBY would plow the water and the nose would try to dive underneath the water, really slowing the takeoff run. The model required a great deal of up-elevator during the takeoff run to keep the nose as high as possible to get up on step, then the elevator was neutralized to allow the model to gain speed, then more up-elevator was applied for liftoff. The Clipper took off much like the Cub. Landing: If you have ever flown a Carrier model, flying from a pond is no problem. Since the Roseburg site was half water and half land, you had to touch down in one specific location. You had to plan your landing several laps in advance, throttle back, and establish a sink rate and throttle setting to touch down on the water. You needed at least 70 feet of water to transition from landing speed to slow water taxi. Every model we flew from the pond required a different technique for landing; some required the combined use of elevator and throttle, and others required only a change in the throttle. The technique of landing without moving the elevator may sound strange, but try it sometime with any CL model that has throttle control. Establish the model's cruise speed, let's say, at 20 feet above the ground. Slowly throttle back to establish a setting that results in an acceptable sink rate. If you throttle back too much, the model will fall from the sky and crash; if you don't throttle back enough, the model will keep flying as normal. I used this technique to land my Cub on the pond with ease. Of course, you need to time the changes in throttle setting according to the specific location at which you want your model to touch down. Pond Configuration: Flying from water with CL models is nothing new, but a float pond the size of the one at the Roseburg Regional Airport is rare. The idea for it was sparked when Dave Shrum and Grant Hiestand came up with the idea of flying CL Schneider Cup racing models from water as a Northwest Regionals event. Dave designed and built the first pond during the 1998 contest in Roseburg. This pond was built aboveground with plywood and was no larger than a CL carrier deck (see the photographs). Flight testing from this pond proved that it needed to be much longer to allow the models to take off. The aboveground side boards needed to be as low as possible to allow the flying lines to clear. The following year Dave got permission from the Roseburg airport to build a permanent pond into the grass area. (See Figure #1.) He got earthmoving equipment and dug a 17-foot-wide moat into the ground. The resulting body of water was big enough to allow large CL models with floats to take off and land with no problems. The grass had to be kept mowed so that the flying lines would not get caught during takeoff or landing. If your club has the space and the desire to build its own pond, choose a flat section of land with grass that can be mowed. The Roseburg pond was filled by the nearby water hydrant used by the fire department. A pond this size will use a considerable amount of water, so be prepared. Also, allow for drainage of the water when you are finished. It took several hours to fill this pond with a large hose. Contest Events: In the fun-fly event for floatplanes at the Northwest Regionals, the aircraft could be any CL model with floats. A large list of options was available to gain flight points. Takeoff, 10 level laps, and landing were mandatory, and six optional items could be added for a maximum score of 180. Aerobatic pilots chose loops and other maneuvers for extra points, while the Scale pilots chose throttle control, a taxi lap, a touch-and-go, and other features. This event has no appearance judging: all points are from the flight portion. You can also fly CL Sport, Profile, and Precision Scale models from the pond. Grant flew his S.6B from the pond for its official flights in Precision Scale. The Northwest Regionals re-creation of the Schneider Cup racing event held in the 1930s was run with club rules, and the models were static judged then flown from the pond and timed. The aircraft had to be Scale models of full-scale Schneider Cup racing airplanes and were limited in physical size and engine size like Carrier models. The flight portion consisted of slow-speed taxi, high-speed taxi, takeoff, 10 level laps, timed high-speed laps, and landing. The flight and static scores were added for a total score that determined who won. Flight Testing: Making the maiden flights of CL models with floats from a pond is quite the challenge because of the interaction with the water and other unknowns. It is easier to test-fly the model from land before taking it to the water. When you have a longer runway, you can work the bugs out and get the model trimmed properly before flying from water. You can adjust the center of gravity (CG), the line guide, and make any other changes. Another reason to test on land first is so you can select the propeller for the shortest takeoff distance. Remember that you only have 190 feet of water to get airborne; in this distance you have to get the model on step and achieve takeoff speed. Wheels provide little friction and land-based models can easily roll and achieve takeoff speed with little power, but a floatplane requires a longer takeoff run to overcome the friction that water provides. As a rule of thumb, the takeoff distance on water is 150% longer than the takeoff distance on land. When I still had the wheels on my Cub, I added lead weights to simulate the floats' weight and did some flight-testing one morning from a concrete circle. (My model can be converted from wheels to floats in less than 10 minutes.) 1 took several propellers with me that day, and my goal was to get the shortest takeoff distance. The Cub has an AstroFlight geared 40 electric motor (with 3.14:1-ratio Super Box), and it can turn everything from an 18 x 10 propeller to a 15-inch propeller. When flying from land I like to use a 16 x 8 on this model, but the 18 x 10 is a real brute and provides a lot of thrust. The takeoff distance with the 16 x 8 is approximately 125 feet (one-third of a lap), and that distance was cut almost in half with the 18 x 10. We tried to fly this airplane from the pond with a 16 x 8 but switched to the 18 x K) after the attempt. Based on the 125-foot takeoff distance, it should take roughly 188 feet to get off the water—which is the full length of the pond. You never can use 100% of the pond during takeoff, and you want your model to lift off before you drag its floats on the exit ramp. Your floatplane should be able to take off from concrete at approximately 100 feet to fly from a pond that is 190 feet long. If you have a flying boat like Grant's Clipper, you can make a dolly that straps to the model. (See the photos.) This way you can trim the model out, adjust the CG and line guide, and pick the proper propeller for minimum takeoff distance. You simply remove the dolly once you get to the pond. Then all you have to worry about is trimming the water rudder to have it track properly through the water during slow-speed taxi. Flying From a Lake: If you have access to a small lake, you will need a shoreline that does not have trees, rocks, or other obstacles to restrict your flight path. Grant and I flew at a local lake one year and stood at the shoreline, basically ending up with 180° of water and 180° of land. Be sure you have permission to fly from the lake before you set up and go. The lake we flew from required special permits. CL models with floats are fun, but don't let a lack of water keep you from building a floatplane. If you build a Scale model, you can put wheels into the floats or fuselage so you can fly from a concrete circle. Merle Mohring's Emily flying boat that was built to compete in CL Profile Scale competition has wheels embedded in the fuselage, which allows the model to fly from any hard surface. Many full-scale aircraft have retractable landing gear as part of the floats or fuselage (which can be duplicated), and that allows the model to be flown from any hard surface. A feature article about the 1998 Northwest Regionals float pond was published in the January 1999 Model Aviation. Good luck with your next CL Scale model with floats, and keep your wings level.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
THE TYPICAL Control Line (CL) model is flown from a concrete or grass circle and uses normal wheels for landing gear. CL models with floats are rarely seen, and flying CL models from water is unique. While the Northwest Regionals CL contest was held at the Roseburg Regional Airport in Oregon from 1997 through 2(K)1, CL models were flown from a float pond as an official event. Flying CL models from water has been done in the past, but flying from u pond this size is rare. From 1998 through 2001 a group of us pilots had the pleasure of flying large CL models from a permanent pond built into the ground at the Roseburg airport. We flew all types and sizes of models, from '/:A-powered airplanes all the way up to a 17-pound model with an O.S. 90 four-stroke for power! Aircraft Configuration: Picking the model you want to fly from water is important. You can sec from the photographs that we have flown several types of models, including a Boeing 314 Clipper, a PBY Catalina, a Piper Cub, and even a Grumman Tigercat. The Clipper and the PBY are flying boats, and the fuselages are used for flotation. The Cub and the Tigercat each used a pair of floats. The Cub was by far the easiest to set up and fly from the pond, and the PBY was the most difficult. A flying boat typically has tip floats mounted on the wings. The relative size of the fuselage will determine how easily the aircraft will take off. The Kyosho PBY that we flew from the Roseburg pond had a relatively small nose and tended to plow the water on takeoff. Sometimes the nose section would want to dive underneath the surface of the water. The Clipper had a relatively tall fuselage and did not exhibit any of the problems noted with the PBY. Weight plays a crucial part. If the model is too heavy and the size of the fuselage hull is insufficient to hold the weight, the model may sink too much to allow for easy takeoff. This was the case with the Grumman Albatross shown in the photographs. The PBY and the Albatross were more difficult to get airborne than the Clipper because of the fuselage configuration, weight, and relative size of the nose section. The Cub was easy to set up. and few problems were noted. I fly the Hangar 9 Piper Cub. which has an 81-inch wingspan and an Astro geared 40 electric motor for power. At first glance the 60-size floats look too big for this airplane, but you will appreciate their size the first time you put the Cub in the water. The Tigercat is a 41-inch-span, scratchbuilt model that I put floats on for the fun of it. The full-scale Tigercat did not have floats. This model proved to be very heavy and flew very fast, making it a challenge to fly from the pond. Takeoff was no problem, but landing was the most difficult because of the high stall speed. Floats: The floats have to be properly positioned on the model (see Figure #2) for the model to lift off the pond correctly. If the floats are too small, the model will sink and will be difficult to get on step. If the floats are too big, the weight and drag will become an issue. Using floats that are durable and light is also important. The Cub that I fly uses the Great Planes 60-size balsa-wood floats that are built from a kit. This kit is worth the money and builds up easily. The only modifications I made were to replace the plywood behind the step with balsa and cover the entire float with 3/4-ounce fiberglass. The bottom of the float received two layers of fiberglass for durability since the models occasionally hit the ramp at the end of the pond or land in the grass. My red-white-and-blue camera model had scratch-built floats (48 inches long!) cut from white one-pound foam, sheeted with balsa, then fiberglassed. Grant Hiestand's Supermarine S.6B had fiberglass floats made from his own molds, which proved to be the lightest and best approach. Water Rudder: The water rudder is not required on all models, but be prepared to install one if needed. You may not find out that your model needs a water rudder until you fly it. The water rudder needs to be adjustable to make sure the model tracks properly through the water during takeoff and landing. The line guide does not play a part in how well the model tracks through the water during slow-speed operation. After the model gets enough speed, the water rudder is not as important and the line guide takes over to maintain line tension. Takeoff: Takeoff from the Roseburg pond required power and proper technique since the water runway was only 190 feet long. The procedure for the Cub required me to set the elevator to neutral (no up or down initially) and apply the power slowly at first to get the model moving through the water. Once the Cub was tracking correctly (this took no more than five feet) I applied full power, and within 100 feet the model was on step and quickly approaching takeoff speed. By the time the Cub hit the 150-foot mark, I applied up-elevator and it lifted off with no trouble. The first attempt to fly this model from the pond was done with some down-elevator during the initial takeoff run, and results were not good. The Albatross set so deep in the water because of its overall weight that it had a difficult time getting up on step, thus it was difficult to get airborne. Additionally. the Albatross's propellers were close to the water and created additional spray. The PBY would plow the water and the nose would try to dive underneath the water, really slowing the takeoff run. The model required a great deal of up-elevator during the takeoff run to keep the nose as high as possible to get up on step, then the elevator was neutralized to allow the model to gain speed, then more up-elevator was applied for liftoff. The Clipper took off much like the Cub. Landing: If you have ever flown a Carrier model, flying from a pond is no problem. Since the Roseburg site was half water and half land, you had to touch down in one specific location. You had to plan your landing several laps in advance, throttle back, and establish a sink rate and throttle setting to touch down on the water. You needed at least 70 feet of water to transition from landing speed to slow water taxi. Every model we flew from the pond required a different technique for landing; some required the combined use of elevator and throttle, and others required only a change in the throttle. The technique of landing without moving the elevator may sound strange, but try it sometime with any CL model that has throttle control. Establish the model's cruise speed, let's say, at 20 feet above the ground. Slowly throttle back to establish a setting that results in an acceptable sink rate. If you throttle back too much, the model will fall from the sky and crash; if you don't throttle back enough, the model will keep flying as normal. I used this technique to land my Cub on the pond with ease. Of course, you need to time the changes in throttle setting according to the specific location at which you want your model to touch down. Pond Configuration: Flying from water with CL models is nothing new, but a float pond the size of the one at the Roseburg Regional Airport is rare. The idea for it was sparked when Dave Shrum and Grant Hiestand came up with the idea of flying CL Schneider Cup racing models from water as a Northwest Regionals event. Dave designed and built the first pond during the 1998 contest in Roseburg. This pond was built aboveground with plywood and was no larger than a CL carrier deck (see the photographs). Flight testing from this pond proved that it needed to be much longer to allow the models to take off. The aboveground side boards needed to be as low as possible to allow the flying lines to clear. The following year Dave got permission from the Roseburg airport to build a permanent pond into the grass area. (See Figure #1.) He got earthmoving equipment and dug a 17-foot-wide moat into the ground. The resulting body of water was big enough to allow large CL models with floats to take off and land with no problems. The grass had to be kept mowed so that the flying lines would not get caught during takeoff or landing. If your club has the space and the desire to build its own pond, choose a flat section of land with grass that can be mowed. The Roseburg pond was filled by the nearby water hydrant used by the fire department. A pond this size will use a considerable amount of water, so be prepared. Also, allow for drainage of the water when you are finished. It took several hours to fill this pond with a large hose. Contest Events: In the fun-fly event for floatplanes at the Northwest Regionals, the aircraft could be any CL model with floats. A large list of options was available to gain flight points. Takeoff, 10 level laps, and landing were mandatory, and six optional items could be added for a maximum score of 180. Aerobatic pilots chose loops and other maneuvers for extra points, while the Scale pilots chose throttle control, a taxi lap, a touch-and-go, and other features. This event has no appearance judging: all points are from the flight portion. You can also fly CL Sport, Profile, and Precision Scale models from the pond. Grant flew his S.6B from the pond for its official flights in Precision Scale. The Northwest Regionals re-creation of the Schneider Cup racing event held in the 1930s was run with club rules, and the models were static judged then flown from the pond and timed. The aircraft had to be Scale models of full-scale Schneider Cup racing airplanes and were limited in physical size and engine size like Carrier models. The flight portion consisted of slow-speed taxi, high-speed taxi, takeoff, 10 level laps, timed high-speed laps, and landing. The flight and static scores were added for a total score that determined who won. Flight Testing: Making the maiden flights of CL models with floats from a pond is quite the challenge because of the interaction with the water and other unknowns. It is easier to test-fly the model from land before taking it to the water. When you have a longer runway, you can work the bugs out and get the model trimmed properly before flying from water. You can adjust the center of gravity (CG), the line guide, and make any other changes. Another reason to test on land first is so you can select the propeller for the shortest takeoff distance. Remember that you only have 190 feet of water to get airborne; in this distance you have to get the model on step and achieve takeoff speed. Wheels provide little friction and land-based models can easily roll and achieve takeoff speed with little power, but a floatplane requires a longer takeoff run to overcome the friction that water provides. As a rule of thumb, the takeoff distance on water is 150% longer than the takeoff distance on land. When I still had the wheels on my Cub, I added lead weights to simulate the floats' weight and did some flight-testing one morning from a concrete circle. (My model can be converted from wheels to floats in less than 10 minutes.) 1 took several propellers with me that day, and my goal was to get the shortest takeoff distance. The Cub has an AstroFlight geared 40 electric motor (with 3.14:1-ratio Super Box), and it can turn everything from an 18 x 10 propeller to a 15-inch propeller. When flying from land I like to use a 16 x 8 on this model, but the 18 x 10 is a real brute and provides a lot of thrust. The takeoff distance with the 16 x 8 is approximately 125 feet (one-third of a lap), and that distance was cut almost in half with the 18 x 10. We tried to fly this airplane from the pond with a 16 x 8 but switched to the 18 x K) after the attempt. Based on the 125-foot takeoff distance, it should take roughly 188 feet to get off the water—which is the full length of the pond. You never can use 100% of the pond during takeoff, and you want your model to lift off before you drag its floats on the exit ramp. Your floatplane should be able to take off from concrete at approximately 100 feet to fly from a pond that is 190 feet long. If you have a flying boat like Grant's Clipper, you can make a dolly that straps to the model. (See the photos.) This way you can trim the model out, adjust the CG and line guide, and pick the proper propeller for minimum takeoff distance. You simply remove the dolly once you get to the pond. Then all you have to worry about is trimming the water rudder to have it track properly through the water during slow-speed taxi. Flying From a Lake: If you have access to a small lake, you will need a shoreline that does not have trees, rocks, or other obstacles to restrict your flight path. Grant and I flew at a local lake one year and stood at the shoreline, basically ending up with 180° of water and 180° of land. Be sure you have permission to fly from the lake before you set up and go. The lake we flew from required special permits. CL models with floats are fun, but don't let a lack of water keep you from building a floatplane. If you build a Scale model, you can put wheels into the floats or fuselage so you can fly from a concrete circle. Merle Mohring's Emily flying boat that was built to compete in CL Profile Scale competition has wheels embedded in the fuselage, which allows the model to fly from any hard surface. Many full-scale aircraft have retractable landing gear as part of the floats or fuselage (which can be duplicated), and that allows the model to be flown from any hard surface. A feature article about the 1998 Northwest Regionals float pond was published in the January 1999 Model Aviation. Good luck with your next CL Scale model with floats, and keep your wings level.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
THE TYPICAL Control Line (CL) model is flown from a concrete or grass circle and uses normal wheels for landing gear. CL models with floats are rarely seen, and flying CL models from water is unique. While the Northwest Regionals CL contest was held at the Roseburg Regional Airport in Oregon from 1997 through 2(K)1, CL models were flown from a float pond as an official event. Flying CL models from water has been done in the past, but flying from u pond this size is rare. From 1998 through 2001 a group of us pilots had the pleasure of flying large CL models from a permanent pond built into the ground at the Roseburg airport. We flew all types and sizes of models, from '/:A-powered airplanes all the way up to a 17-pound model with an O.S. 90 four-stroke for power! Aircraft Configuration: Picking the model you want to fly from water is important. You can sec from the photographs that we have flown several types of models, including a Boeing 314 Clipper, a PBY Catalina, a Piper Cub, and even a Grumman Tigercat. The Clipper and the PBY are flying boats, and the fuselages are used for flotation. The Cub and the Tigercat each used a pair of floats. The Cub was by far the easiest to set up and fly from the pond, and the PBY was the most difficult. A flying boat typically has tip floats mounted on the wings. The relative size of the fuselage will determine how easily the aircraft will take off. The Kyosho PBY that we flew from the Roseburg pond had a relatively small nose and tended to plow the water on takeoff. Sometimes the nose section would want to dive underneath the surface of the water. The Clipper had a relatively tall fuselage and did not exhibit any of the problems noted with the PBY. Weight plays a crucial part. If the model is too heavy and the size of the fuselage hull is insufficient to hold the weight, the model may sink too much to allow for easy takeoff. This was the case with the Grumman Albatross shown in the photographs. The PBY and the Albatross were more difficult to get airborne than the Clipper because of the fuselage configuration, weight, and relative size of the nose section. The Cub was easy to set up. and few problems were noted. I fly the Hangar 9 Piper Cub. which has an 81-inch wingspan and an Astro geared 40 electric motor for power. At first glance the 60-size floats look too big for this airplane, but you will appreciate their size the first time you put the Cub in the water. The Tigercat is a 41-inch-span, scratchbuilt model that I put floats on for the fun of it. The full-scale Tigercat did not have floats. This model proved to be very heavy and flew very fast, making it a challenge to fly from the pond. Takeoff was no problem, but landing was the most difficult because of the high stall speed. Floats: The floats have to be properly positioned on the model (see Figure #2) for the model to lift off the pond correctly. If the floats are too small, the model will sink and will be difficult to get on step. If the floats are too big, the weight and drag will become an issue. Using floats that are durable and light is also important. The Cub that I fly uses the Great Planes 60-size balsa-wood floats that are built from a kit. This kit is worth the money and builds up easily. The only modifications I made were to replace the plywood behind the step with balsa and cover the entire float with 3/4-ounce fiberglass. The bottom of the float received two layers of fiberglass for durability since the models occasionally hit the ramp at the end of the pond or land in the grass. My red-white-and-blue camera model had scratch-built floats (48 inches long!) cut from white one-pound foam, sheeted with balsa, then fiberglassed. Grant Hiestand's Supermarine S.6B had fiberglass floats made from his own molds, which proved to be the lightest and best approach. Water Rudder: The water rudder is not required on all models, but be prepared to install one if needed. You may not find out that your model needs a water rudder until you fly it. The water rudder needs to be adjustable to make sure the model tracks properly through the water during takeoff and landing. The line guide does not play a part in how well the model tracks through the water during slow-speed operation. After the model gets enough speed, the water rudder is not as important and the line guide takes over to maintain line tension. Takeoff: Takeoff from the Roseburg pond required power and proper technique since the water runway was only 190 feet long. The procedure for the Cub required me to set the elevator to neutral (no up or down initially) and apply the power slowly at first to get the model moving through the water. Once the Cub was tracking correctly (this took no more than five feet) I applied full power, and within 100 feet the model was on step and quickly approaching takeoff speed. By the time the Cub hit the 150-foot mark, I applied up-elevator and it lifted off with no trouble. The first attempt to fly this model from the pond was done with some down-elevator during the initial takeoff run, and results were not good. The Albatross set so deep in the water because of its overall weight that it had a difficult time getting up on step, thus it was difficult to get airborne. Additionally. the Albatross's propellers were close to the water and created additional spray. The PBY would plow the water and the nose would try to dive underneath the water, really slowing the takeoff run. The model required a great deal of up-elevator during the takeoff run to keep the nose as high as possible to get up on step, then the elevator was neutralized to allow the model to gain speed, then more up-elevator was applied for liftoff. The Clipper took off much like the Cub. Landing: If you have ever flown a Carrier model, flying from a pond is no problem. Since the Roseburg site was half water and half land, you had to touch down in one specific location. You had to plan your landing several laps in advance, throttle back, and establish a sink rate and throttle setting to touch down on the water. You needed at least 70 feet of water to transition from landing speed to slow water taxi. Every model we flew from the pond required a different technique for landing; some required the combined use of elevator and throttle, and others required only a change in the throttle. The technique of landing without moving the elevator may sound strange, but try it sometime with any CL model that has throttle control. Establish the model's cruise speed, let's say, at 20 feet above the ground. Slowly throttle back to establish a setting that results in an acceptable sink rate. If you throttle back too much, the model will fall from the sky and crash; if you don't throttle back enough, the model will keep flying as normal. I used this technique to land my Cub on the pond with ease. Of course, you need to time the changes in throttle setting according to the specific location at which you want your model to touch down. Pond Configuration: Flying from water with CL models is nothing new, but a float pond the size of the one at the Roseburg Regional Airport is rare. The idea for it was sparked when Dave Shrum and Grant Hiestand came up with the idea of flying CL Schneider Cup racing models from water as a Northwest Regionals event. Dave designed and built the first pond during the 1998 contest in Roseburg. This pond was built aboveground with plywood and was no larger than a CL carrier deck (see the photographs). Flight testing from this pond proved that it needed to be much longer to allow the models to take off. The aboveground side boards needed to be as low as possible to allow the flying lines to clear. The following year Dave got permission from the Roseburg airport to build a permanent pond into the grass area. (See Figure #1.) He got earthmoving equipment and dug a 17-foot-wide moat into the ground. The resulting body of water was big enough to allow large CL models with floats to take off and land with no problems. The grass had to be kept mowed so that the flying lines would not get caught during takeoff or landing. If your club has the space and the desire to build its own pond, choose a flat section of land with grass that can be mowed. The Roseburg pond was filled by the nearby water hydrant used by the fire department. A pond this size will use a considerable amount of water, so be prepared. Also, allow for drainage of the water when you are finished. It took several hours to fill this pond with a large hose. Contest Events: In the fun-fly event for floatplanes at the Northwest Regionals, the aircraft could be any CL model with floats. A large list of options was available to gain flight points. Takeoff, 10 level laps, and landing were mandatory, and six optional items could be added for a maximum score of 180. Aerobatic pilots chose loops and other maneuvers for extra points, while the Scale pilots chose throttle control, a taxi lap, a touch-and-go, and other features. This event has no appearance judging: all points are from the flight portion. You can also fly CL Sport, Profile, and Precision Scale models from the pond. Grant flew his S.6B from the pond for its official flights in Precision Scale. The Northwest Regionals re-creation of the Schneider Cup racing event held in the 1930s was run with club rules, and the models were static judged then flown from the pond and timed. The aircraft had to be Scale models of full-scale Schneider Cup racing airplanes and were limited in physical size and engine size like Carrier models. The flight portion consisted of slow-speed taxi, high-speed taxi, takeoff, 10 level laps, timed high-speed laps, and landing. The flight and static scores were added for a total score that determined who won. Flight Testing: Making the maiden flights of CL models with floats from a pond is quite the challenge because of the interaction with the water and other unknowns. It is easier to test-fly the model from land before taking it to the water. When you have a longer runway, you can work the bugs out and get the model trimmed properly before flying from water. You can adjust the center of gravity (CG), the line guide, and make any other changes. Another reason to test on land first is so you can select the propeller for the shortest takeoff distance. Remember that you only have 190 feet of water to get airborne; in this distance you have to get the model on step and achieve takeoff speed. Wheels provide little friction and land-based models can easily roll and achieve takeoff speed with little power, but a floatplane requires a longer takeoff run to overcome the friction that water provides. As a rule of thumb, the takeoff distance on water is 150% longer than the takeoff distance on land. When I still had the wheels on my Cub, I added lead weights to simulate the floats' weight and did some flight-testing one morning from a concrete circle. (My model can be converted from wheels to floats in less than 10 minutes.) 1 took several propellers with me that day, and my goal was to get the shortest takeoff distance. The Cub has an AstroFlight geared 40 electric motor (with 3.14:1-ratio Super Box), and it can turn everything from an 18 x 10 propeller to a 15-inch propeller. When flying from land I like to use a 16 x 8 on this model, but the 18 x 10 is a real brute and provides a lot of thrust. The takeoff distance with the 16 x 8 is approximately 125 feet (one-third of a lap), and that distance was cut almost in half with the 18 x 10. We tried to fly this airplane from the pond with a 16 x 8 but switched to the 18 x K) after the attempt. Based on the 125-foot takeoff distance, it should take roughly 188 feet to get off the water—which is the full length of the pond. You never can use 100% of the pond during takeoff, and you want your model to lift off before you drag its floats on the exit ramp. Your floatplane should be able to take off from concrete at approximately 100 feet to fly from a pond that is 190 feet long. If you have a flying boat like Grant's Clipper, you can make a dolly that straps to the model. (See the photos.) This way you can trim the model out, adjust the CG and line guide, and pick the proper propeller for minimum takeoff distance. You simply remove the dolly once you get to the pond. Then all you have to worry about is trimming the water rudder to have it track properly through the water during slow-speed taxi. Flying From a Lake: If you have access to a small lake, you will need a shoreline that does not have trees, rocks, or other obstacles to restrict your flight path. Grant and I flew at a local lake one year and stood at the shoreline, basically ending up with 180° of water and 180° of land. Be sure you have permission to fly from the lake before you set up and go. The lake we flew from required special permits. CL models with floats are fun, but don't let a lack of water keep you from building a floatplane. If you build a Scale model, you can put wheels into the floats or fuselage so you can fly from a concrete circle. Merle Mohring's Emily flying boat that was built to compete in CL Profile Scale competition has wheels embedded in the fuselage, which allows the model to fly from any hard surface. Many full-scale aircraft have retractable landing gear as part of the floats or fuselage (which can be duplicated), and that allows the model to be flown from any hard surface. A feature article about the 1998 Northwest Regionals float pond was published in the January 1999 Model Aviation. Good luck with your next CL Scale model with floats, and keep your wings level.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
THE TYPICAL Control Line (CL) model is flown from a concrete or grass circle and uses normal wheels for landing gear. CL models with floats are rarely seen, and flying CL models from water is unique. While the Northwest Regionals CL contest was held at the Roseburg Regional Airport in Oregon from 1997 through 2(K)1, CL models were flown from a float pond as an official event. Flying CL models from water has been done in the past, but flying from u pond this size is rare. From 1998 through 2001 a group of us pilots had the pleasure of flying large CL models from a permanent pond built into the ground at the Roseburg airport. We flew all types and sizes of models, from '/:A-powered airplanes all the way up to a 17-pound model with an O.S. 90 four-stroke for power! Aircraft Configuration: Picking the model you want to fly from water is important. You can sec from the photographs that we have flown several types of models, including a Boeing 314 Clipper, a PBY Catalina, a Piper Cub, and even a Grumman Tigercat. The Clipper and the PBY are flying boats, and the fuselages are used for flotation. The Cub and the Tigercat each used a pair of floats. The Cub was by far the easiest to set up and fly from the pond, and the PBY was the most difficult. A flying boat typically has tip floats mounted on the wings. The relative size of the fuselage will determine how easily the aircraft will take off. The Kyosho PBY that we flew from the Roseburg pond had a relatively small nose and tended to plow the water on takeoff. Sometimes the nose section would want to dive underneath the surface of the water. The Clipper had a relatively tall fuselage and did not exhibit any of the problems noted with the PBY. Weight plays a crucial part. If the model is too heavy and the size of the fuselage hull is insufficient to hold the weight, the model may sink too much to allow for easy takeoff. This was the case with the Grumman Albatross shown in the photographs. The PBY and the Albatross were more difficult to get airborne than the Clipper because of the fuselage configuration, weight, and relative size of the nose section. The Cub was easy to set up. and few problems were noted. I fly the Hangar 9 Piper Cub. which has an 81-inch wingspan and an Astro geared 40 electric motor for power. At first glance the 60-size floats look too big for this airplane, but you will appreciate their size the first time you put the Cub in the water. The Tigercat is a 41-inch-span, scratchbuilt model that I put floats on for the fun of it. The full-scale Tigercat did not have floats. This model proved to be very heavy and flew very fast, making it a challenge to fly from the pond. Takeoff was no problem, but landing was the most difficult because of the high stall speed. Floats: The floats have to be properly positioned on the model (see Figure #2) for the model to lift off the pond correctly. If the floats are too small, the model will sink and will be difficult to get on step. If the floats are too big, the weight and drag will become an issue. Using floats that are durable and light is also important. The Cub that I fly uses the Great Planes 60-size balsa-wood floats that are built from a kit. This kit is worth the money and builds up easily. The only modifications I made were to replace the plywood behind the step with balsa and cover the entire float with 3/4-ounce fiberglass. The bottom of the float received two layers of fiberglass for durability since the models occasionally hit the ramp at the end of the pond or land in the grass. My red-white-and-blue camera model had scratch-built floats (48 inches long!) cut from white one-pound foam, sheeted with balsa, then fiberglassed. Grant Hiestand's Supermarine S.6B had fiberglass floats made from his own molds, which proved to be the lightest and best approach. Water Rudder: The water rudder is not required on all models, but be prepared to install one if needed. You may not find out that your model needs a water rudder until you fly it. The water rudder needs to be adjustable to make sure the model tracks properly through the water during takeoff and landing. The line guide does not play a part in how well the model tracks through the water during slow-speed operation. After the model gets enough speed, the water rudder is not as important and the line guide takes over to maintain line tension. Takeoff: Takeoff from the Roseburg pond required power and proper technique since the water runway was only 190 feet long. The procedure for the Cub required me to set the elevator to neutral (no up or down initially) and apply the power slowly at first to get the model moving through the water. Once the Cub was tracking correctly (this took no more than five feet) I applied full power, and within 100 feet the model was on step and quickly approaching takeoff speed. By the time the Cub hit the 150-foot mark, I applied up-elevator and it lifted off with no trouble. The first attempt to fly this model from the pond was done with some down-elevator during the initial takeoff run, and results were not good. The Albatross set so deep in the water because of its overall weight that it had a difficult time getting up on step, thus it was difficult to get airborne. Additionally. the Albatross's propellers were close to the water and created additional spray. The PBY would plow the water and the nose would try to dive underneath the water, really slowing the takeoff run. The model required a great deal of up-elevator during the takeoff run to keep the nose as high as possible to get up on step, then the elevator was neutralized to allow the model to gain speed, then more up-elevator was applied for liftoff. The Clipper took off much like the Cub. Landing: If you have ever flown a Carrier model, flying from a pond is no problem. Since the Roseburg site was half water and half land, you had to touch down in one specific location. You had to plan your landing several laps in advance, throttle back, and establish a sink rate and throttle setting to touch down on the water. You needed at least 70 feet of water to transition from landing speed to slow water taxi. Every model we flew from the pond required a different technique for landing; some required the combined use of elevator and throttle, and others required only a change in the throttle. The technique of landing without moving the elevator may sound strange, but try it sometime with any CL model that has throttle control. Establish the model's cruise speed, let's say, at 20 feet above the ground. Slowly throttle back to establish a setting that results in an acceptable sink rate. If you throttle back too much, the model will fall from the sky and crash; if you don't throttle back enough, the model will keep flying as normal. I used this technique to land my Cub on the pond with ease. Of course, you need to time the changes in throttle setting according to the specific location at which you want your model to touch down. Pond Configuration: Flying from water with CL models is nothing new, but a float pond the size of the one at the Roseburg Regional Airport is rare. The idea for it was sparked when Dave Shrum and Grant Hiestand came up with the idea of flying CL Schneider Cup racing models from water as a Northwest Regionals event. Dave designed and built the first pond during the 1998 contest in Roseburg. This pond was built aboveground with plywood and was no larger than a CL carrier deck (see the photographs). Flight testing from this pond proved that it needed to be much longer to allow the models to take off. The aboveground side boards needed to be as low as possible to allow the flying lines to clear. The following year Dave got permission from the Roseburg airport to build a permanent pond into the grass area. (See Figure #1.) He got earthmoving equipment and dug a 17-foot-wide moat into the ground. The resulting body of water was big enough to allow large CL models with floats to take off and land with no problems. The grass had to be kept mowed so that the flying lines would not get caught during takeoff or landing. If your club has the space and the desire to build its own pond, choose a flat section of land with grass that can be mowed. The Roseburg pond was filled by the nearby water hydrant used by the fire department. A pond this size will use a considerable amount of water, so be prepared. Also, allow for drainage of the water when you are finished. It took several hours to fill this pond with a large hose. Contest Events: In the fun-fly event for floatplanes at the Northwest Regionals, the aircraft could be any CL model with floats. A large list of options was available to gain flight points. Takeoff, 10 level laps, and landing were mandatory, and six optional items could be added for a maximum score of 180. Aerobatic pilots chose loops and other maneuvers for extra points, while the Scale pilots chose throttle control, a taxi lap, a touch-and-go, and other features. This event has no appearance judging: all points are from the flight portion. You can also fly CL Sport, Profile, and Precision Scale models from the pond. Grant flew his S.6B from the pond for its official flights in Precision Scale. The Northwest Regionals re-creation of the Schneider Cup racing event held in the 1930s was run with club rules, and the models were static judged then flown from the pond and timed. The aircraft had to be Scale models of full-scale Schneider Cup racing airplanes and were limited in physical size and engine size like Carrier models. The flight portion consisted of slow-speed taxi, high-speed taxi, takeoff, 10 level laps, timed high-speed laps, and landing. The flight and static scores were added for a total score that determined who won. Flight Testing: Making the maiden flights of CL models with floats from a pond is quite the challenge because of the interaction with the water and other unknowns. It is easier to test-fly the model from land before taking it to the water. When you have a longer runway, you can work the bugs out and get the model trimmed properly before flying from water. You can adjust the center of gravity (CG), the line guide, and make any other changes. Another reason to test on land first is so you can select the propeller for the shortest takeoff distance. Remember that you only have 190 feet of water to get airborne; in this distance you have to get the model on step and achieve takeoff speed. Wheels provide little friction and land-based models can easily roll and achieve takeoff speed with little power, but a floatplane requires a longer takeoff run to overcome the friction that water provides. As a rule of thumb, the takeoff distance on water is 150% longer than the takeoff distance on land. When I still had the wheels on my Cub, I added lead weights to simulate the floats' weight and did some flight-testing one morning from a concrete circle. (My model can be converted from wheels to floats in less than 10 minutes.) 1 took several propellers with me that day, and my goal was to get the shortest takeoff distance. The Cub has an AstroFlight geared 40 electric motor (with 3.14:1-ratio Super Box), and it can turn everything from an 18 x 10 propeller to a 15-inch propeller. When flying from land I like to use a 16 x 8 on this model, but the 18 x 10 is a real brute and provides a lot of thrust. The takeoff distance with the 16 x 8 is approximately 125 feet (one-third of a lap), and that distance was cut almost in half with the 18 x 10. We tried to fly this airplane from the pond with a 16 x 8 but switched to the 18 x K) after the attempt. Based on the 125-foot takeoff distance, it should take roughly 188 feet to get off the water—which is the full length of the pond. You never can use 100% of the pond during takeoff, and you want your model to lift off before you drag its floats on the exit ramp. Your floatplane should be able to take off from concrete at approximately 100 feet to fly from a pond that is 190 feet long. If you have a flying boat like Grant's Clipper, you can make a dolly that straps to the model. (See the photos.) This way you can trim the model out, adjust the CG and line guide, and pick the proper propeller for minimum takeoff distance. You simply remove the dolly once you get to the pond. Then all you have to worry about is trimming the water rudder to have it track properly through the water during slow-speed taxi. Flying From a Lake: If you have access to a small lake, you will need a shoreline that does not have trees, rocks, or other obstacles to restrict your flight path. Grant and I flew at a local lake one year and stood at the shoreline, basically ending up with 180° of water and 180° of land. Be sure you have permission to fly from the lake before you set up and go. The lake we flew from required special permits. CL models with floats are fun, but don't let a lack of water keep you from building a floatplane. If you build a Scale model, you can put wheels into the floats or fuselage so you can fly from a concrete circle. Merle Mohring's Emily flying boat that was built to compete in CL Profile Scale competition has wheels embedded in the fuselage, which allows the model to fly from any hard surface. Many full-scale aircraft have retractable landing gear as part of the floats or fuselage (which can be duplicated), and that allows the model to be flown from any hard surface. A feature article about the 1998 Northwest Regionals float pond was published in the January 1999 Model Aviation. Good luck with your next CL Scale model with floats, and keep your wings level.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
THE TYPICAL Control Line (CL) model is flown from a concrete or grass circle and uses normal wheels for landing gear. CL models with floats are rarely seen, and flying CL models from water is unique. While the Northwest Regionals CL contest was held at the Roseburg Regional Airport in Oregon from 1997 through 2(K)1, CL models were flown from a float pond as an official event. Flying CL models from water has been done in the past, but flying from u pond this size is rare. From 1998 through 2001 a group of us pilots had the pleasure of flying large CL models from a permanent pond built into the ground at the Roseburg airport. We flew all types and sizes of models, from '/:A-powered airplanes all the way up to a 17-pound model with an O.S. 90 four-stroke for power! Aircraft Configuration: Picking the model you want to fly from water is important. You can sec from the photographs that we have flown several types of models, including a Boeing 314 Clipper, a PBY Catalina, a Piper Cub, and even a Grumman Tigercat. The Clipper and the PBY are flying boats, and the fuselages are used for flotation. The Cub and the Tigercat each used a pair of floats. The Cub was by far the easiest to set up and fly from the pond, and the PBY was the most difficult. A flying boat typically has tip floats mounted on the wings. The relative size of the fuselage will determine how easily the aircraft will take off. The Kyosho PBY that we flew from the Roseburg pond had a relatively small nose and tended to plow the water on takeoff. Sometimes the nose section would want to dive underneath the surface of the water. The Clipper had a relatively tall fuselage and did not exhibit any of the problems noted with the PBY. Weight plays a crucial part. If the model is too heavy and the size of the fuselage hull is insufficient to hold the weight, the model may sink too much to allow for easy takeoff. This was the case with the Grumman Albatross shown in the photographs. The PBY and the Albatross were more difficult to get airborne than the Clipper because of the fuselage configuration, weight, and relative size of the nose section. The Cub was easy to set up. and few problems were noted. I fly the Hangar 9 Piper Cub. which has an 81-inch wingspan and an Astro geared 40 electric motor for power. At first glance the 60-size floats look too big for this airplane, but you will appreciate their size the first time you put the Cub in the water. The Tigercat is a 41-inch-span, scratchbuilt model that I put floats on for the fun of it. The full-scale Tigercat did not have floats. This model proved to be very heavy and flew very fast, making it a challenge to fly from the pond. Takeoff was no problem, but landing was the most difficult because of the high stall speed. Floats: The floats have to be properly positioned on the model (see Figure #2) for the model to lift off the pond correctly. If the floats are too small, the model will sink and will be difficult to get on step. If the floats are too big, the weight and drag will become an issue. Using floats that are durable and light is also important. The Cub that I fly uses the Great Planes 60-size balsa-wood floats that are built from a kit. This kit is worth the money and builds up easily. The only modifications I made were to replace the plywood behind the step with balsa and cover the entire float with 3/4-ounce fiberglass. The bottom of the float received two layers of fiberglass for durability since the models occasionally hit the ramp at the end of the pond or land in the grass. My red-white-and-blue camera model had scratch-built floats (48 inches long!) cut from white one-pound foam, sheeted with balsa, then fiberglassed. Grant Hiestand's Supermarine S.6B had fiberglass floats made from his own molds, which proved to be the lightest and best approach. Water Rudder: The water rudder is not required on all models, but be prepared to install one if needed. You may not find out that your model needs a water rudder until you fly it. The water rudder needs to be adjustable to make sure the model tracks properly through the water during takeoff and landing. The line guide does not play a part in how well the model tracks through the water during slow-speed operation. After the model gets enough speed, the water rudder is not as important and the line guide takes over to maintain line tension. Takeoff: Takeoff from the Roseburg pond required power and proper technique since the water runway was only 190 feet long. The procedure for the Cub required me to set the elevator to neutral (no up or down initially) and apply the power slowly at first to get the model moving through the water. Once the Cub was tracking correctly (this took no more than five feet) I applied full power, and within 100 feet the model was on step and quickly approaching takeoff speed. By the time the Cub hit the 150-foot mark, I applied up-elevator and it lifted off with no trouble. The first attempt to fly this model from the pond was done with some down-elevator during the initial takeoff run, and results were not good. The Albatross set so deep in the water because of its overall weight that it had a difficult time getting up on step, thus it was difficult to get airborne. Additionally. the Albatross's propellers were close to the water and created additional spray. The PBY would plow the water and the nose would try to dive underneath the water, really slowing the takeoff run. The model required a great deal of up-elevator during the takeoff run to keep the nose as high as possible to get up on step, then the elevator was neutralized to allow the model to gain speed, then more up-elevator was applied for liftoff. The Clipper took off much like the Cub. Landing: If you have ever flown a Carrier model, flying from a pond is no problem. Since the Roseburg site was half water and half land, you had to touch down in one specific location. You had to plan your landing several laps in advance, throttle back, and establish a sink rate and throttle setting to touch down on the water. You needed at least 70 feet of water to transition from landing speed to slow water taxi. Every model we flew from the pond required a different technique for landing; some required the combined use of elevator and throttle, and others required only a change in the throttle. The technique of landing without moving the elevator may sound strange, but try it sometime with any CL model that has throttle control. Establish the model's cruise speed, let's say, at 20 feet above the ground. Slowly throttle back to establish a setting that results in an acceptable sink rate. If you throttle back too much, the model will fall from the sky and crash; if you don't throttle back enough, the model will keep flying as normal. I used this technique to land my Cub on the pond with ease. Of course, you need to time the changes in throttle setting according to the specific location at which you want your model to touch down. Pond Configuration: Flying from water with CL models is nothing new, but a float pond the size of the one at the Roseburg Regional Airport is rare. The idea for it was sparked when Dave Shrum and Grant Hiestand came up with the idea of flying CL Schneider Cup racing models from water as a Northwest Regionals event. Dave designed and built the first pond during the 1998 contest in Roseburg. This pond was built aboveground with plywood and was no larger than a CL carrier deck (see the photographs). Flight testing from this pond proved that it needed to be much longer to allow the models to take off. The aboveground side boards needed to be as low as possible to allow the flying lines to clear. The following year Dave got permission from the Roseburg airport to build a permanent pond into the grass area. (See Figure #1.) He got earthmoving equipment and dug a 17-foot-wide moat into the ground. The resulting body of water was big enough to allow large CL models with floats to take off and land with no problems. The grass had to be kept mowed so that the flying lines would not get caught during takeoff or landing. If your club has the space and the desire to build its own pond, choose a flat section of land with grass that can be mowed. The Roseburg pond was filled by the nearby water hydrant used by the fire department. A pond this size will use a considerable amount of water, so be prepared. Also, allow for drainage of the water when you are finished. It took several hours to fill this pond with a large hose. Contest Events: In the fun-fly event for floatplanes at the Northwest Regionals, the aircraft could be any CL model with floats. A large list of options was available to gain flight points. Takeoff, 10 level laps, and landing were mandatory, and six optional items could be added for a maximum score of 180. Aerobatic pilots chose loops and other maneuvers for extra points, while the Scale pilots chose throttle control, a taxi lap, a touch-and-go, and other features. This event has no appearance judging: all points are from the flight portion. You can also fly CL Sport, Profile, and Precision Scale models from the pond. Grant flew his S.6B from the pond for its official flights in Precision Scale. The Northwest Regionals re-creation of the Schneider Cup racing event held in the 1930s was run with club rules, and the models were static judged then flown from the pond and timed. The aircraft had to be Scale models of full-scale Schneider Cup racing airplanes and were limited in physical size and engine size like Carrier models. The flight portion consisted of slow-speed taxi, high-speed taxi, takeoff, 10 level laps, timed high-speed laps, and landing. The flight and static scores were added for a total score that determined who won. Flight Testing: Making the maiden flights of CL models with floats from a pond is quite the challenge because of the interaction with the water and other unknowns. It is easier to test-fly the model from land before taking it to the water. When you have a longer runway, you can work the bugs out and get the model trimmed properly before flying from water. You can adjust the center of gravity (CG), the line guide, and make any other changes. Another reason to test on land first is so you can select the propeller for the shortest takeoff distance. Remember that you only have 190 feet of water to get airborne; in this distance you have to get the model on step and achieve takeoff speed. Wheels provide little friction and land-based models can easily roll and achieve takeoff speed with little power, but a floatplane requires a longer takeoff run to overcome the friction that water provides. As a rule of thumb, the takeoff distance on water is 150% longer than the takeoff distance on land. When I still had the wheels on my Cub, I added lead weights to simulate the floats' weight and did some flight-testing one morning from a concrete circle. (My model can be converted from wheels to floats in less than 10 minutes.) 1 took several propellers with me that day, and my goal was to get the shortest takeoff distance. The Cub has an AstroFlight geared 40 electric motor (with 3.14:1-ratio Super Box), and it can turn everything from an 18 x 10 propeller to a 15-inch propeller. When flying from land I like to use a 16 x 8 on this model, but the 18 x 10 is a real brute and provides a lot of thrust. The takeoff distance with the 16 x 8 is approximately 125 feet (one-third of a lap), and that distance was cut almost in half with the 18 x 10. We tried to fly this airplane from the pond with a 16 x 8 but switched to the 18 x K) after the attempt. Based on the 125-foot takeoff distance, it should take roughly 188 feet to get off the water—which is the full length of the pond. You never can use 100% of the pond during takeoff, and you want your model to lift off before you drag its floats on the exit ramp. Your floatplane should be able to take off from concrete at approximately 100 feet to fly from a pond that is 190 feet long. If you have a flying boat like Grant's Clipper, you can make a dolly that straps to the model. (See the photos.) This way you can trim the model out, adjust the CG and line guide, and pick the proper propeller for minimum takeoff distance. You simply remove the dolly once you get to the pond. Then all you have to worry about is trimming the water rudder to have it track properly through the water during slow-speed taxi. Flying From a Lake: If you have access to a small lake, you will need a shoreline that does not have trees, rocks, or other obstacles to restrict your flight path. Grant and I flew at a local lake one year and stood at the shoreline, basically ending up with 180° of water and 180° of land. Be sure you have permission to fly from the lake before you set up and go. The lake we flew from required special permits. CL models with floats are fun, but don't let a lack of water keep you from building a floatplane. If you build a Scale model, you can put wheels into the floats or fuselage so you can fly from a concrete circle. Merle Mohring's Emily flying boat that was built to compete in CL Profile Scale competition has wheels embedded in the fuselage, which allows the model to fly from any hard surface. Many full-scale aircraft have retractable landing gear as part of the floats or fuselage (which can be duplicated), and that allows the model to be flown from any hard surface. A feature article about the 1998 Northwest Regionals float pond was published in the January 1999 Model Aviation. Good luck with your next CL Scale model with floats, and keep your wings level.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
THE TYPICAL Control Line (CL) model is flown from a concrete or grass circle and uses normal wheels for landing gear. CL models with floats are rarely seen, and flying CL models from water is unique. While the Northwest Regionals CL contest was held at the Roseburg Regional Airport in Oregon from 1997 through 2(K)1, CL models were flown from a float pond as an official event. Flying CL models from water has been done in the past, but flying from u pond this size is rare. From 1998 through 2001 a group of us pilots had the pleasure of flying large CL models from a permanent pond built into the ground at the Roseburg airport. We flew all types and sizes of models, from '/:A-powered airplanes all the way up to a 17-pound model with an O.S. 90 four-stroke for power! Aircraft Configuration: Picking the model you want to fly from water is important. You can sec from the photographs that we have flown several types of models, including a Boeing 314 Clipper, a PBY Catalina, a Piper Cub, and even a Grumman Tigercat. The Clipper and the PBY are flying boats, and the fuselages are used for flotation. The Cub and the Tigercat each used a pair of floats. The Cub was by far the easiest to set up and fly from the pond, and the PBY was the most difficult. A flying boat typically has tip floats mounted on the wings. The relative size of the fuselage will determine how easily the aircraft will take off. The Kyosho PBY that we flew from the Roseburg pond had a relatively small nose and tended to plow the water on takeoff. Sometimes the nose section would want to dive underneath the surface of the water. The Clipper had a relatively tall fuselage and did not exhibit any of the problems noted with the PBY. Weight plays a crucial part. If the model is too heavy and the size of the fuselage hull is insufficient to hold the weight, the model may sink too much to allow for easy takeoff. This was the case with the Grumman Albatross shown in the photographs. The PBY and the Albatross were more difficult to get airborne than the Clipper because of the fuselage configuration, weight, and relative size of the nose section. The Cub was easy to set up. and few problems were noted. I fly the Hangar 9 Piper Cub. which has an 81-inch wingspan and an Astro geared 40 electric motor for power. At first glance the 60-size floats look too big for this airplane, but you will appreciate their size the first time you put the Cub in the water. The Tigercat is a 41-inch-span, scratchbuilt model that I put floats on for the fun of it. The full-scale Tigercat did not have floats. This model proved to be very heavy and flew very fast, making it a challenge to fly from the pond. Takeoff was no problem, but landing was the most difficult because of the high stall speed. Floats: The floats have to be properly positioned on the model (see Figure #2) for the model to lift off the pond correctly. If the floats are too small, the model will sink and will be difficult to get on step. If the floats are too big, the weight and drag will become an issue. Using floats that are durable and light is also important. The Cub that I fly uses the Great Planes 60-size balsa-wood floats that are built from a kit. This kit is worth the money and builds up easily. The only modifications I made were to replace the plywood behind the step with balsa and cover the entire float with 3/4-ounce fiberglass. The bottom of the float received two layers of fiberglass for durability since the models occasionally hit the ramp at the end of the pond or land in the grass. My red-white-and-blue camera model had scratch-built floats (48 inches long!) cut from white one-pound foam, sheeted with balsa, then fiberglassed. Grant Hiestand's Supermarine S.6B had fiberglass floats made from his own molds, which proved to be the lightest and best approach. Water Rudder: The water rudder is not required on all models, but be prepared to install one if needed. You may not find out that your model needs a water rudder until you fly it. The water rudder needs to be adjustable to make sure the model tracks properly through the water during takeoff and landing. The line guide does not play a part in how well the model tracks through the water during slow-speed operation. After the model gets enough speed, the water rudder is not as important and the line guide takes over to maintain line tension. Takeoff: Takeoff from the Roseburg pond required power and proper technique since the water runway was only 190 feet long. The procedure for the Cub required me to set the elevator to neutral (no up or down initially) and apply the power slowly at first to get the model moving through the water. Once the Cub was tracking correctly (this took no more than five feet) I applied full power, and within 100 feet the model was on step and quickly approaching takeoff speed. By the time the Cub hit the 150-foot mark, I applied up-elevator and it lifted off with no trouble. The first attempt to fly this model from the pond was done with some down-elevator during the initial takeoff run, and results were not good. The Albatross set so deep in the water because of its overall weight that it had a difficult time getting up on step, thus it was difficult to get airborne. Additionally. the Albatross's propellers were close to the water and created additional spray. The PBY would plow the water and the nose would try to dive underneath the water, really slowing the takeoff run. The model required a great deal of up-elevator during the takeoff run to keep the nose as high as possible to get up on step, then the elevator was neutralized to allow the model to gain speed, then more up-elevator was applied for liftoff. The Clipper took off much like the Cub. Landing: If you have ever flown a Carrier model, flying from a pond is no problem. Since the Roseburg site was half water and half land, you had to touch down in one specific location. You had to plan your landing several laps in advance, throttle back, and establish a sink rate and throttle setting to touch down on the water. You needed at least 70 feet of water to transition from landing speed to slow water taxi. Every model we flew from the pond required a different technique for landing; some required the combined use of elevator and throttle, and others required only a change in the throttle. The technique of landing without moving the elevator may sound strange, but try it sometime with any CL model that has throttle control. Establish the model's cruise speed, let's say, at 20 feet above the ground. Slowly throttle back to establish a setting that results in an acceptable sink rate. If you throttle back too much, the model will fall from the sky and crash; if you don't throttle back enough, the model will keep flying as normal. I used this technique to land my Cub on the pond with ease. Of course, you need to time the changes in throttle setting according to the specific location at which you want your model to touch down. Pond Configuration: Flying from water with CL models is nothing new, but a float pond the size of the one at the Roseburg Regional Airport is rare. The idea for it was sparked when Dave Shrum and Grant Hiestand came up with the idea of flying CL Schneider Cup racing models from water as a Northwest Regionals event. Dave designed and built the first pond during the 1998 contest in Roseburg. This pond was built aboveground with plywood and was no larger than a CL carrier deck (see the photographs). Flight testing from this pond proved that it needed to be much longer to allow the models to take off. The aboveground side boards needed to be as low as possible to allow the flying lines to clear. The following year Dave got permission from the Roseburg airport to build a permanent pond into the grass area. (See Figure #1.) He got earthmoving equipment and dug a 17-foot-wide moat into the ground. The resulting body of water was big enough to allow large CL models with floats to take off and land with no problems. The grass had to be kept mowed so that the flying lines would not get caught during takeoff or landing. If your club has the space and the desire to build its own pond, choose a flat section of land with grass that can be mowed. The Roseburg pond was filled by the nearby water hydrant used by the fire department. A pond this size will use a considerable amount of water, so be prepared. Also, allow for drainage of the water when you are finished. It took several hours to fill this pond with a large hose. Contest Events: In the fun-fly event for floatplanes at the Northwest Regionals, the aircraft could be any CL model with floats. A large list of options was available to gain flight points. Takeoff, 10 level laps, and landing were mandatory, and six optional items could be added for a maximum score of 180. Aerobatic pilots chose loops and other maneuvers for extra points, while the Scale pilots chose throttle control, a taxi lap, a touch-and-go, and other features. This event has no appearance judging: all points are from the flight portion. You can also fly CL Sport, Profile, and Precision Scale models from the pond. Grant flew his S.6B from the pond for its official flights in Precision Scale. The Northwest Regionals re-creation of the Schneider Cup racing event held in the 1930s was run with club rules, and the models were static judged then flown from the pond and timed. The aircraft had to be Scale models of full-scale Schneider Cup racing airplanes and were limited in physical size and engine size like Carrier models. The flight portion consisted of slow-speed taxi, high-speed taxi, takeoff, 10 level laps, timed high-speed laps, and landing. The flight and static scores were added for a total score that determined who won. Flight Testing: Making the maiden flights of CL models with floats from a pond is quite the challenge because of the interaction with the water and other unknowns. It is easier to test-fly the model from land before taking it to the water. When you have a longer runway, you can work the bugs out and get the model trimmed properly before flying from water. You can adjust the center of gravity (CG), the line guide, and make any other changes. Another reason to test on land first is so you can select the propeller for the shortest takeoff distance. Remember that you only have 190 feet of water to get airborne; in this distance you have to get the model on step and achieve takeoff speed. Wheels provide little friction and land-based models can easily roll and achieve takeoff speed with little power, but a floatplane requires a longer takeoff run to overcome the friction that water provides. As a rule of thumb, the takeoff distance on water is 150% longer than the takeoff distance on land. When I still had the wheels on my Cub, I added lead weights to simulate the floats' weight and did some flight-testing one morning from a concrete circle. (My model can be converted from wheels to floats in less than 10 minutes.) 1 took several propellers with me that day, and my goal was to get the shortest takeoff distance. The Cub has an AstroFlight geared 40 electric motor (with 3.14:1-ratio Super Box), and it can turn everything from an 18 x 10 propeller to a 15-inch propeller. When flying from land I like to use a 16 x 8 on this model, but the 18 x 10 is a real brute and provides a lot of thrust. The takeoff distance with the 16 x 8 is approximately 125 feet (one-third of a lap), and that distance was cut almost in half with the 18 x 10. We tried to fly this airplane from the pond with a 16 x 8 but switched to the 18 x K) after the attempt. Based on the 125-foot takeoff distance, it should take roughly 188 feet to get off the water—which is the full length of the pond. You never can use 100% of the pond during takeoff, and you want your model to lift off before you drag its floats on the exit ramp. Your floatplane should be able to take off from concrete at approximately 100 feet to fly from a pond that is 190 feet long. If you have a flying boat like Grant's Clipper, you can make a dolly that straps to the model. (See the photos.) This way you can trim the model out, adjust the CG and line guide, and pick the proper propeller for minimum takeoff distance. You simply remove the dolly once you get to the pond. Then all you have to worry about is trimming the water rudder to have it track properly through the water during slow-speed taxi. Flying From a Lake: If you have access to a small lake, you will need a shoreline that does not have trees, rocks, or other obstacles to restrict your flight path. Grant and I flew at a local lake one year and stood at the shoreline, basically ending up with 180° of water and 180° of land. Be sure you have permission to fly from the lake before you set up and go. The lake we flew from required special permits. CL models with floats are fun, but don't let a lack of water keep you from building a floatplane. If you build a Scale model, you can put wheels into the floats or fuselage so you can fly from a concrete circle. Merle Mohring's Emily flying boat that was built to compete in CL Profile Scale competition has wheels embedded in the fuselage, which allows the model to fly from any hard surface. Many full-scale aircraft have retractable landing gear as part of the floats or fuselage (which can be duplicated), and that allows the model to be flown from any hard surface. A feature article about the 1998 Northwest Regionals float pond was published in the January 1999 Model Aviation. Good luck with your next CL Scale model with floats, and keep your wings level.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 28, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
THE TYPICAL Control Line (CL) model is flown from a concrete or grass circle and uses normal wheels for landing gear. CL models with floats are rarely seen, and flying CL models from water is unique. While the Northwest Regionals CL contest was held at the Roseburg Regional Airport in Oregon from 1997 through 2(K)1, CL models were flown from a float pond as an official event. Flying CL models from water has been done in the past, but flying from u pond this size is rare. From 1998 through 2001 a group of us pilots had the pleasure of flying large CL models from a permanent pond built into the ground at the Roseburg airport. We flew all types and sizes of models, from '/:A-powered airplanes all the way up to a 17-pound model with an O.S. 90 four-stroke for power! Aircraft Configuration: Picking the model you want to fly from water is important. You can sec from the photographs that we have flown several types of models, including a Boeing 314 Clipper, a PBY Catalina, a Piper Cub, and even a Grumman Tigercat. The Clipper and the PBY are flying boats, and the fuselages are used for flotation. The Cub and the Tigercat each used a pair of floats. The Cub was by far the easiest to set up and fly from the pond, and the PBY was the most difficult. A flying boat typically has tip floats mounted on the wings. The relative size of the fuselage will determine how easily the aircraft will take off. The Kyosho PBY that we flew from the Roseburg pond had a relatively small nose and tended to plow the water on takeoff. Sometimes the nose section would want to dive underneath the surface of the water. The Clipper had a relatively tall fuselage and did not exhibit any of the problems noted with the PBY. Weight plays a crucial part. If the model is too heavy and the size of the fuselage hull is insufficient to hold the weight, the model may sink too much to allow for easy takeoff. This was the case with the Grumman Albatross shown in the photographs. The PBY and the Albatross were more difficult to get airborne than the Clipper because of the fuselage configuration, weight, and relative size of the nose section. The Cub was easy to set up. and few problems were noted. I fly the Hangar 9 Piper Cub. which has an 81-inch wingspan and an Astro geared 40 electric motor for power. At first glance the 60-size floats look too big for this airplane, but you will appreciate their size the first time you put the Cub in the water. The Tigercat is a 41-inch-span, scratchbuilt model that I put floats on for the fun of it. The full-scale Tigercat did not have floats. This model proved to be very heavy and flew very fast, making it a challenge to fly from the pond. Takeoff was no problem, but landing was the most difficult because of the high stall speed. Floats: The floats have to be properly positioned on the model (see Figure #2) for the model to lift off the pond correctly. If the floats are too small, the model will sink and will be difficult to get on step. If the floats are too big, the weight and drag will become an issue. Using floats that are durable and light is also important. The Cub that I fly uses the Great Planes 60-size balsa-wood floats that are built from a kit. This kit is worth the money and builds up easily. The only modifications I made were to replace the plywood behind the step with balsa and cover the entire float with 3/4-ounce fiberglass. The bottom of the float received two layers of fiberglass for durability since the models occasionally hit the ramp at the end of the pond or land in the grass. My red-white-and-blue camera model had scratch-built floats (48 inches long!) cut from white one-pound foam, sheeted with balsa, then fiberglassed. Grant Hiestand's Supermarine S.6B had fiberglass floats made from his own molds, which proved to be the lightest and best approach. Water Rudder: The water rudder is not required on all models, but be prepared to install one if needed. You may not find out that your model needs a water rudder until you fly it. The water rudder needs to be adjustable to make sure the model tracks properly through the water during takeoff and landing. The line guide does not play a part in how well the model tracks through the water during slow-speed operation. After the model gets enough speed, the water rudder is not as important and the line guide takes over to maintain line tension. Takeoff: Takeoff from the Roseburg pond required power and proper technique since the water runway was only 190 feet long. The procedure for the Cub required me to set the elevator to neutral (no up or down initially) and apply the power slowly at first to get the model moving through the water. Once the Cub was tracking correctly (this took no more than five feet) I applied full power, and within 100 feet the model was on step and quickly approaching takeoff speed. By the time the Cub hit the 150-foot mark, I applied up-elevator and it lifted off with no trouble. The first attempt to fly this model from the pond was done with some down-elevator during the initial takeoff run, and results were not good. The Albatross set so deep in the water because of its overall weight that it had a difficult time getting up on step, thus it was difficult to get airborne. Additionally. the Albatross's propellers were close to the water and created additional spray. The PBY would plow the water and the nose would try to dive underneath the water, really slowing the takeoff run. The model required a great deal of up-elevator during the takeoff run to keep the nose as high as possible to get up on step, then the elevator was neutralized to allow the model to gain speed, then more up-elevator was applied for liftoff. The Clipper took off much like the Cub. Landing: If you have ever flown a Carrier model, flying from a pond is no problem. Since the Roseburg site was half water and half land, you had to touch down in one specific location. You had to plan your landing several laps in advance, throttle back, and establish a sink rate and throttle setting to touch down on the water. You needed at least 70 feet of water to transition from landing speed to slow water taxi. Every model we flew from the pond required a different technique for landing; some required the combined use of elevator and throttle, and others required only a change in the throttle. The technique of landing without moving the elevator may sound strange, but try it sometime with any CL model that has throttle control. Establish the model's cruise speed, let's say, at 20 feet above the ground. Slowly throttle back to establish a setting that results in an acceptable sink rate. If you throttle back too much, the model will fall from the sky and crash; if you don't throttle back enough, the model will keep flying as normal. I used this technique to land my Cub on the pond with ease. Of course, you need to time the changes in throttle setting according to the specific location at which you want your model to touch down. Pond Configuration: Flying from water with CL models is nothing new, but a float pond the size of the one at the Roseburg Regional Airport is rare. The idea for it was sparked when Dave Shrum and Grant Hiestand came up with the idea of flying CL Schneider Cup racing models from water as a Northwest Regionals event. Dave designed and built the first pond during the 1998 contest in Roseburg. This pond was built aboveground with plywood and was no larger than a CL carrier deck (see the photographs). Flight testing from this pond proved that it needed to be much longer to allow the models to take off. The aboveground side boards needed to be as low as possible to allow the flying lines to clear. The following year Dave got permission from the Roseburg airport to build a permanent pond into the grass area. (See Figure #1.) He got earthmoving equipment and dug a 17-foot-wide moat into the ground. The resulting body of water was big enough to allow large CL models with floats to take off and land with no problems. The grass had to be kept mowed so that the flying lines would not get caught during takeoff or landing. If your club has the space and the desire to build its own pond, choose a flat section of land with grass that can be mowed. The Roseburg pond was filled by the nearby water hydrant used by the fire department. A pond this size will use a considerable amount of water, so be prepared. Also, allow for drainage of the water when you are finished. It took several hours to fill this pond with a large hose. Contest Events: In the fun-fly event for floatplanes at the Northwest Regionals, the aircraft could be any CL model with floats. A large list of options was available to gain flight points. Takeoff, 10 level laps, and landing were mandatory, and six optional items could be added for a maximum score of 180. Aerobatic pilots chose loops and other maneuvers for extra points, while the Scale pilots chose throttle control, a taxi lap, a touch-and-go, and other features. This event has no appearance judging: all points are from the flight portion. You can also fly CL Sport, Profile, and Precision Scale models from the pond. Grant flew his S.6B from the pond for its official flights in Precision Scale. The Northwest Regionals re-creation of the Schneider Cup racing event held in the 1930s was run with club rules, and the models were static judged then flown from the pond and timed. The aircraft had to be Scale models of full-scale Schneider Cup racing airplanes and were limited in physical size and engine size like Carrier models. The flight portion consisted of slow-speed taxi, high-speed taxi, takeoff, 10 level laps, timed high-speed laps, and landing. The flight and static scores were added for a total score that determined who won. Flight Testing: Making the maiden flights of CL models with floats from a pond is quite the challenge because of the interaction with the water and other unknowns. It is easier to test-fly the model from land before taking it to the water. When you have a longer runway, you can work the bugs out and get the model trimmed properly before flying from water. You can adjust the center of gravity (CG), the line guide, and make any other changes. Another reason to test on land first is so you can select the propeller for the shortest takeoff distance. Remember that you only have 190 feet of water to get airborne; in this distance you have to get the model on step and achieve takeoff speed. Wheels provide little friction and land-based models can easily roll and achieve takeoff speed with little power, but a floatplane requires a longer takeoff run to overcome the friction that water provides. As a rule of thumb, the takeoff distance on water is 150% longer than the takeoff distance on land. When I still had the wheels on my Cub, I added lead weights to simulate the floats' weight and did some flight-testing one morning from a concrete circle. (My model can be converted from wheels to floats in less than 10 minutes.) 1 took several propellers with me that day, and my goal was to get the shortest takeoff distance. The Cub has an AstroFlight geared 40 electric motor (with 3.14:1-ratio Super Box), and it can turn everything from an 18 x 10 propeller to a 15-inch propeller. When flying from land I like to use a 16 x 8 on this model, but the 18 x 10 is a real brute and provides a lot of thrust. The takeoff distance with the 16 x 8 is approximately 125 feet (one-third of a lap), and that distance was cut almost in half with the 18 x 10. We tried to fly this airplane from the pond with a 16 x 8 but switched to the 18 x K) after the attempt. Based on the 125-foot takeoff distance, it should take roughly 188 feet to get off the water—which is the full length of the pond. You never can use 100% of the pond during takeoff, and you want your model to lift off before you drag its floats on the exit ramp. Your floatplane should be able to take off from concrete at approximately 100 feet to fly from a pond that is 190 feet long. If you have a flying boat like Grant's Clipper, you can make a dolly that straps to the model. (See the photos.) This way you can trim the model out, adjust the CG and line guide, and pick the proper propeller for minimum takeoff distance. You simply remove the dolly once you get to the pond. Then all you have to worry about is trimming the water rudder to have it track properly through the water during slow-speed taxi. Flying From a Lake: If you have access to a small lake, you will need a shoreline that does not have trees, rocks, or other obstacles to restrict your flight path. Grant and I flew at a local lake one year and stood at the shoreline, basically ending up with 180° of water and 180° of land. Be sure you have permission to fly from the lake before you set up and go. The lake we flew from required special permits. CL models with floats are fun, but don't let a lack of water keep you from building a floatplane. If you build a Scale model, you can put wheels into the floats or fuselage so you can fly from a concrete circle. Merle Mohring's Emily flying boat that was built to compete in CL Profile Scale competition has wheels embedded in the fuselage, which allows the model to fly from any hard surface. Many full-scale aircraft have retractable landing gear as part of the floats or fuselage (which can be duplicated), and that allows the model to be flown from any hard surface. A feature article about the 1998 Northwest Regionals float pond was published in the January 1999 Model Aviation. Good luck with your next CL Scale model with floats, and keep your wings level.
