“AN IMMEDIATE NEED!” Those were the words I used to start my
first CL Scale column in the September 1982 MA. Now, 25 years later,
I am calling for the same thing: help.
As a new writer I asked for the help of sending me newsletters,
photos, contest reports, or anything relating to CL Scale. Through the
years many of you have made numerous contributions, and I greatly
appreciate the time and effort you spent making my writing the column
so much easier. Many of you, like me, might now be considered “oldtimers”
in the sport of CL Scale, and we are sort of worn out.
During the past 25 years we have seen many changes: increased
use of electronic controls, the proliferation of ARFs, the extensive use
of foam and other materials in model construction, the introduction and
great advancements in the use of electric power, and many changes in
the Scale rules providing Sport and Profile Scale events.
Perhaps a new group of CL Scale modelers who is using these
technologies and participating in events would be willing to take
the time to share their experiences with others. I have featured a
couple electric-powered CL Scale models here in the past couple
years, but I can’t help but feel that I haven’t heard from many
modelers out there who are experimenting with these aircraft.
Therefore, I make my appeal once more, to
young and old CL Scale modelers, to let me
know what you are doing so I might tell others
about your projects, building tips, and so on,
and especially include photos showing your
great work. The column is only as good and
informative as the information I receive.
On the subject of things from the past I’m
going to revisit some information and/or
projects I have covered. This month I’m
featuring the sliding-canopy project I included
in that first column 25 years ago. The task
involved converting the kit-supplied canopy
into a functional version.
The included canopy was for a P-40 I flew
in the 1976 Nats. Although it was specifically
The 25th anniversary of Bill Boss’s CL Scale column
[[email protected]]
Control Line Scale Bill Boss
Also included in this column:
• Sliding-canopy project
• The passing of Lynn Green
• Ralph Robinson’s Albatros
Turn a kit-provided canopy into a nice sliding canopy with piano
wire, brass or tin-can stock, and aluminum adhesive tape.
The construction of the sliding canopy that is detailed in the text adds considerable
realism to this model of a Bengal Tiger P-40 from World War II.
Ralph Robinson built his Albatros from a
Fun Aero R/C kit. It features a good
color scheme and attention to detail.
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for that model, you can apply the basic idea to
any number of aircraft with sliding canopies.
Start by constructing the piano-wire
framework as shown in the sketch. (Do not
separate the windshield section from the part
that will be sliding until the wire framework is
completed.) Using the plastic canopy as a
pattern, shape the wire to fit the inside
contours at the front and middle support
bands of the canopy.
After the wire is shaped, set it aside and
make slides from sheet brass or tin-can stock.
The slides’ length and height should be
slightly smaller than the portion of the canopy
that would normally be made from metal. The
90° portion of the slide should be wide
enough that when it rests in the bottom of the
U-shaped canopy rail there is sufficient
clearance between the canopy and fuselage, to
prevent rubbing.
The canopy rails are U-shaped channel
material (brass or aluminum) that comes in
12-inch lengths. You can find this in the brass
and aluminum tubing displays in most hobby
shops.
When the slides are completed you can
solder the wire sections to the slides to
complete the framework. After the framework
is completed, check the shape again by
placing the framework inside the plastic
canopy.
Make any necessary adjustments, and
when the fit is okay separate the windshield
and sliding sections of the canopy. Position
the framework inside the sliding section and
carefully drill small holes, as shown in the
sketch, to accept 1/32-inch aluminum rivets.
Complete the job by carefully riveting the
plastic canopy to the wire framework.
Now you have to do something so the
framework does not show through the plastic.
Painting is an option, but I applied an
aluminum tape to the canopy in the places
that would normally be the metal structure.
I used an adhesive tape that comes in rolls
of various widths and lengths. You can find it
in most hardware stores. The tape is easy to
cut to shape with scissors or an X-Acto knife.
The peel-off backing makes for easy handling
until it is ready to be applied.
Cut strips of the tape to appropriate widths
and apply them to the canopy. When you are
making strips for canopy edges, allow a little
extra so the tape can be rolled around the