December 2009 53
by Bob Engle
Custom Scale
Helicopter Landing Lights
Illuminate your Scale machine to get
it the attention it deserves
I HAVE BEEN flying RC models for 34 years. I bought my first
airplane and helicopter at age 8 and taught myself how to fly. I began
teaching RC at age 10 and started flying full-scale aircraft at the same
time. I currently own a small company and fly full-scale airplanes and
helicopters.
Aeromodeling is a part of me, and every part of my day has some
aspect of the hobby in it, whether I’m flying, building, or reading about
it. On average, I log almost 800 flights per year. My current model
collection consists of 18 giant airplanes, which are 35% and larger in
size, and 13 helicopters. The latter is a mixture of 3-D and Scale
machines.
I recently made the huge move into the extreme side of Scale
helicopters and purchased my first Vario machine, and I am making the
transition into turbine power systems. My favorites to fly are the
Eurocopter EC 120 and EC 155.
In addition to my love of flying, I enjoy helping others with their
models and seeing the joy on their faces as they progress. Helping
others is what our hobby is all about.
I came up with the idea of making my own landing-light system when
I found out that there were no provisions for one in the helicopter that I
was building: the Thunder Tiger Agusta A 109 powered for the 90-size
market.
The Thunder Tiger Raptor series of scale fuselages is affordable for
the budget-minded and extremely nice. But if you want to go all out,
you have to make many of your own details. I have built five fuselages
in this line and decided that it was time to build the 90-size machine.
I had planned on adding 16 scale details that were not provided with
the kit, including rotating beacons, navigation lights, strobes, and scale
landing lights, which entailed two lights per side. I thought long and
hard about how to make these features and keep them light.
I decided to use hobby-grade sheet styrene, which is available at
most hobby stores and distributed by Evergreen Scale Models. I
employed .040 inch white for the light housing, 3/8-inch tubular for the
bulb housing, and .010-inch clear for the lens to go inside the fuselage,
in front of the entire assembly.
I glued all of the styrene with Testors Model Master Liquid
Cement, which dries quickly and bonds very well. Do not use CA;
it will hold poorly. I used RAM light bulb units, which I siliconeglued
into the 3/8 tubes. This system for making landing lights
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:47 AM Page 53
54 MODEL AVIATION
2
With a fine-tip marker, scribe an area that is roughly 11/4 inches
long and 5/8 inch high. A 6-inch ruler is helpful. You can wipe off
the lines later using rubbing alcohol.
Carefully use a Dremel tool to cut the outlined area. Use a 1/4-inch
coarse drum to start, and fine-tune the area with a fine drum. A
small shop vacuum helps keep the dust down. Take your time
doing this; you can’t go back later and fill in your mistakes.
The area is almost smooth at this point, so use a small piece of
120-grit sandpaper to go lightly over all of the inside edges by
hand.
Mark the two light mounts on a 6 x 12-inch-piece sheet of .040-
inch-thick white styrene. Make these 11/2 inches by 3/4 inch. Cut
four pieces of the styrene that measure 11/2 x 5/16.
Mark the center of the unit with horizontal and vertical lines.
From the vertical line, measure to the left and right 5/16 inch. This
will be the center for drilling the housing for your 3/8-inch tubes.
Use Model Master Liquid Cement to bond the small pieces to the
large pieces at a 90° angle. Set aside to dry.
1
3
4
5 6
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:48 AM Page 54
December 2009 55
Photos by the author
Drill the center holes to 3/8 inch. I have found that a drill bit for
this travels; it is best to use a reamer. You can take your time
with it and remove only the material you need.
Once the tubes fit tightly, cut them to 1/2 inch and glue them in
place. Be sure that they fit squarely in the opening so that the
lights aim correctly when they are on.
Now take a scrap of tubing and make sure the bulb fits
inside nicely. Adhere the bulbs in place with silicone.
You can hold them with a small clamp. While this dries,
use silicone to glue the clear lens into the fuselage.
The entire unit is held in the fuselage with silicone.
Be mindful of the wires, so that they don’t
interfere with the landing gear or any moving
parts. These lights look scale, cost a minimal
amount, and will dress up any machine.
works great and looks fantastic when complete.
Make sure that all of your model’s wires and fittings are
clear of the retractable landing gear. I used silicone to adhere
the wires to the fiberglass fuselage, to keep everything neat.
The last thing you want in a helicopter are wires flaying
around all those moving parts.
You can complete this project in a short amount of time.
The photos and captions tell the “how-to” part of the story.
You will spend more time waiting for glue to dry than
anything else. If you take your time, you will be rewarded
with fully functional lights that look terrific. MA
Bob Engle
[email protected]
Sources:
Thunder Tiger Agusta A109 fuselage:
Ace Hobby Distributors
(800) 322-7121
www.acehobby.com
Evergreen Scale Models
(425) 402-4918
www.evergreenscalemodels.com
Testors
(800) 962-6654
www.testors.com
RAM
(847) 740-8726
www.ramrcandramtrack.com
Agusta A 109’s graphics:
Gupp Signs
(585) 244-5070
www.guppsigns.com
7
8
9
10
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:50 AM Page 55
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/12
Page Numbers: 53,54,55
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/12
Page Numbers: 53,54,55
December 2009 53
by Bob Engle
Custom Scale
Helicopter Landing Lights
Illuminate your Scale machine to get
it the attention it deserves
I HAVE BEEN flying RC models for 34 years. I bought my first
airplane and helicopter at age 8 and taught myself how to fly. I began
teaching RC at age 10 and started flying full-scale aircraft at the same
time. I currently own a small company and fly full-scale airplanes and
helicopters.
Aeromodeling is a part of me, and every part of my day has some
aspect of the hobby in it, whether I’m flying, building, or reading about
it. On average, I log almost 800 flights per year. My current model
collection consists of 18 giant airplanes, which are 35% and larger in
size, and 13 helicopters. The latter is a mixture of 3-D and Scale
machines.
I recently made the huge move into the extreme side of Scale
helicopters and purchased my first Vario machine, and I am making the
transition into turbine power systems. My favorites to fly are the
Eurocopter EC 120 and EC 155.
In addition to my love of flying, I enjoy helping others with their
models and seeing the joy on their faces as they progress. Helping
others is what our hobby is all about.
I came up with the idea of making my own landing-light system when
I found out that there were no provisions for one in the helicopter that I
was building: the Thunder Tiger Agusta A 109 powered for the 90-size
market.
The Thunder Tiger Raptor series of scale fuselages is affordable for
the budget-minded and extremely nice. But if you want to go all out,
you have to make many of your own details. I have built five fuselages
in this line and decided that it was time to build the 90-size machine.
I had planned on adding 16 scale details that were not provided with
the kit, including rotating beacons, navigation lights, strobes, and scale
landing lights, which entailed two lights per side. I thought long and
hard about how to make these features and keep them light.
I decided to use hobby-grade sheet styrene, which is available at
most hobby stores and distributed by Evergreen Scale Models. I
employed .040 inch white for the light housing, 3/8-inch tubular for the
bulb housing, and .010-inch clear for the lens to go inside the fuselage,
in front of the entire assembly.
I glued all of the styrene with Testors Model Master Liquid
Cement, which dries quickly and bonds very well. Do not use CA;
it will hold poorly. I used RAM light bulb units, which I siliconeglued
into the 3/8 tubes. This system for making landing lights
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:47 AM Page 53
54 MODEL AVIATION
2
With a fine-tip marker, scribe an area that is roughly 11/4 inches
long and 5/8 inch high. A 6-inch ruler is helpful. You can wipe off
the lines later using rubbing alcohol.
Carefully use a Dremel tool to cut the outlined area. Use a 1/4-inch
coarse drum to start, and fine-tune the area with a fine drum. A
small shop vacuum helps keep the dust down. Take your time
doing this; you can’t go back later and fill in your mistakes.
The area is almost smooth at this point, so use a small piece of
120-grit sandpaper to go lightly over all of the inside edges by
hand.
Mark the two light mounts on a 6 x 12-inch-piece sheet of .040-
inch-thick white styrene. Make these 11/2 inches by 3/4 inch. Cut
four pieces of the styrene that measure 11/2 x 5/16.
Mark the center of the unit with horizontal and vertical lines.
From the vertical line, measure to the left and right 5/16 inch. This
will be the center for drilling the housing for your 3/8-inch tubes.
Use Model Master Liquid Cement to bond the small pieces to the
large pieces at a 90° angle. Set aside to dry.
1
3
4
5 6
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:48 AM Page 54
December 2009 55
Photos by the author
Drill the center holes to 3/8 inch. I have found that a drill bit for
this travels; it is best to use a reamer. You can take your time
with it and remove only the material you need.
Once the tubes fit tightly, cut them to 1/2 inch and glue them in
place. Be sure that they fit squarely in the opening so that the
lights aim correctly when they are on.
Now take a scrap of tubing and make sure the bulb fits
inside nicely. Adhere the bulbs in place with silicone.
You can hold them with a small clamp. While this dries,
use silicone to glue the clear lens into the fuselage.
The entire unit is held in the fuselage with silicone.
Be mindful of the wires, so that they don’t
interfere with the landing gear or any moving
parts. These lights look scale, cost a minimal
amount, and will dress up any machine.
works great and looks fantastic when complete.
Make sure that all of your model’s wires and fittings are
clear of the retractable landing gear. I used silicone to adhere
the wires to the fiberglass fuselage, to keep everything neat.
The last thing you want in a helicopter are wires flaying
around all those moving parts.
You can complete this project in a short amount of time.
The photos and captions tell the “how-to” part of the story.
You will spend more time waiting for glue to dry than
anything else. If you take your time, you will be rewarded
with fully functional lights that look terrific. MA
Bob Engle
[email protected]
Sources:
Thunder Tiger Agusta A109 fuselage:
Ace Hobby Distributors
(800) 322-7121
www.acehobby.com
Evergreen Scale Models
(425) 402-4918
www.evergreenscalemodels.com
Testors
(800) 962-6654
www.testors.com
RAM
(847) 740-8726
www.ramrcandramtrack.com
Agusta A 109’s graphics:
Gupp Signs
(585) 244-5070
www.guppsigns.com
7
8
9
10
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:50 AM Page 55
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/12
Page Numbers: 53,54,55
December 2009 53
by Bob Engle
Custom Scale
Helicopter Landing Lights
Illuminate your Scale machine to get
it the attention it deserves
I HAVE BEEN flying RC models for 34 years. I bought my first
airplane and helicopter at age 8 and taught myself how to fly. I began
teaching RC at age 10 and started flying full-scale aircraft at the same
time. I currently own a small company and fly full-scale airplanes and
helicopters.
Aeromodeling is a part of me, and every part of my day has some
aspect of the hobby in it, whether I’m flying, building, or reading about
it. On average, I log almost 800 flights per year. My current model
collection consists of 18 giant airplanes, which are 35% and larger in
size, and 13 helicopters. The latter is a mixture of 3-D and Scale
machines.
I recently made the huge move into the extreme side of Scale
helicopters and purchased my first Vario machine, and I am making the
transition into turbine power systems. My favorites to fly are the
Eurocopter EC 120 and EC 155.
In addition to my love of flying, I enjoy helping others with their
models and seeing the joy on their faces as they progress. Helping
others is what our hobby is all about.
I came up with the idea of making my own landing-light system when
I found out that there were no provisions for one in the helicopter that I
was building: the Thunder Tiger Agusta A 109 powered for the 90-size
market.
The Thunder Tiger Raptor series of scale fuselages is affordable for
the budget-minded and extremely nice. But if you want to go all out,
you have to make many of your own details. I have built five fuselages
in this line and decided that it was time to build the 90-size machine.
I had planned on adding 16 scale details that were not provided with
the kit, including rotating beacons, navigation lights, strobes, and scale
landing lights, which entailed two lights per side. I thought long and
hard about how to make these features and keep them light.
I decided to use hobby-grade sheet styrene, which is available at
most hobby stores and distributed by Evergreen Scale Models. I
employed .040 inch white for the light housing, 3/8-inch tubular for the
bulb housing, and .010-inch clear for the lens to go inside the fuselage,
in front of the entire assembly.
I glued all of the styrene with Testors Model Master Liquid
Cement, which dries quickly and bonds very well. Do not use CA;
it will hold poorly. I used RAM light bulb units, which I siliconeglued
into the 3/8 tubes. This system for making landing lights
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:47 AM Page 53
54 MODEL AVIATION
2
With a fine-tip marker, scribe an area that is roughly 11/4 inches
long and 5/8 inch high. A 6-inch ruler is helpful. You can wipe off
the lines later using rubbing alcohol.
Carefully use a Dremel tool to cut the outlined area. Use a 1/4-inch
coarse drum to start, and fine-tune the area with a fine drum. A
small shop vacuum helps keep the dust down. Take your time
doing this; you can’t go back later and fill in your mistakes.
The area is almost smooth at this point, so use a small piece of
120-grit sandpaper to go lightly over all of the inside edges by
hand.
Mark the two light mounts on a 6 x 12-inch-piece sheet of .040-
inch-thick white styrene. Make these 11/2 inches by 3/4 inch. Cut
four pieces of the styrene that measure 11/2 x 5/16.
Mark the center of the unit with horizontal and vertical lines.
From the vertical line, measure to the left and right 5/16 inch. This
will be the center for drilling the housing for your 3/8-inch tubes.
Use Model Master Liquid Cement to bond the small pieces to the
large pieces at a 90° angle. Set aside to dry.
1
3
4
5 6
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:48 AM Page 54
December 2009 55
Photos by the author
Drill the center holes to 3/8 inch. I have found that a drill bit for
this travels; it is best to use a reamer. You can take your time
with it and remove only the material you need.
Once the tubes fit tightly, cut them to 1/2 inch and glue them in
place. Be sure that they fit squarely in the opening so that the
lights aim correctly when they are on.
Now take a scrap of tubing and make sure the bulb fits
inside nicely. Adhere the bulbs in place with silicone.
You can hold them with a small clamp. While this dries,
use silicone to glue the clear lens into the fuselage.
The entire unit is held in the fuselage with silicone.
Be mindful of the wires, so that they don’t
interfere with the landing gear or any moving
parts. These lights look scale, cost a minimal
amount, and will dress up any machine.
works great and looks fantastic when complete.
Make sure that all of your model’s wires and fittings are
clear of the retractable landing gear. I used silicone to adhere
the wires to the fiberglass fuselage, to keep everything neat.
The last thing you want in a helicopter are wires flaying
around all those moving parts.
You can complete this project in a short amount of time.
The photos and captions tell the “how-to” part of the story.
You will spend more time waiting for glue to dry than
anything else. If you take your time, you will be rewarded
with fully functional lights that look terrific. MA
Bob Engle
[email protected]
Sources:
Thunder Tiger Agusta A109 fuselage:
Ace Hobby Distributors
(800) 322-7121
www.acehobby.com
Evergreen Scale Models
(425) 402-4918
www.evergreenscalemodels.com
Testors
(800) 962-6654
www.testors.com
RAM
(847) 740-8726
www.ramrcandramtrack.com
Agusta A 109’s graphics:
Gupp Signs
(585) 244-5070
www.guppsigns.com
7
8
9
10
12sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 10/23/09 9:50 AM Page 55
