LET’S START
with an update on a
couple of items I
wrote about in the
last issue. I left you
with expectations of
looking at how to
use some of the USB
programmers and
why I prefer them to some other methods. But first there’s an issue
with my Spektrumized Evo, aka Franken-Evo Part II, you should
know about.
Do not drill holes in your motherboard! Remember when I wrote
that converting your radio and soldering connections inside would
void all warranties? I decided to mount the Spektrum module to the
motherboard. Since there were mounting holes and standoffs for the
module when I removed it from the case, I figured I’d use them to
bolt it to the motherboard. We had done this on Jim Ryan’s radio and
it worked great.
When I drilled the motherboard on mine, the digital adjusters quit
working. Closer examination showed that the newer Multiplex Royal
Evo radios are using a multilayer circuit board, whereas the older
ones didn’t. When you drill through them, you ruin the hidden layer.
A quick trip to Hitec/RCD service in California got a new
motherboard installed, but it wasn’t cheap.
This is the problem with do-it-yourself radio conversions if you
don’t have the latest engineering data for your board, etc. I got great
service from Hitec/RCD and the resident service guru, Tony Ohm.
For a full story with photos about how to do the conversion,
check out my blog. (See the “Sources” list for the Web address.)
You can also visit Michel Moret’s site; he carries the extra-light
version of the conversion module we used to do the internal install.
You might need to refer directly to my project so he’ll know you
want the one without the big plug on it.
Great service from Michel!
June Column Clarification: I received a lot of mail regarding
using BECs on multiengine setups when I wrote about my friend
with the jet and its
erratic speedcontrol
actions. To
be clear about this,
I was referring to
using Castle
Creations
controllers, so talk
to your
Also included in this column:
• Dual ESC BEC clarification
• USB programming devices
Royal Evo conversion warning
October 2009 103
Electrics Greg Gimlick | [email protected]
The main window in the Castle Link
software connected to an ESC. The blue
circles with question marks by certain
choices are in case you need help.
Clicking on the blue circles presents you with instructions for making your choice.
Notice the help files for the three options in the motor-parameters tab.
FlightTech and Castle Creations offer small and feature-rich
USB programming devices.
manufacturer if you’re using a different brand.
You can connect two speed controls and their BECs activated to one
receiver. This is paralleling them to the bus, and that’s fine.
You can’t connect two controllers to a Y harness with the red wire
connected and then disconnect the red wire at the receiver end of the
“Y” cord. This, in essence, shorts the two red power wires at the other
end. Software/firmware in the ESC tries to filter that out, but it’s beyond
its capability.
External USB Programmers: The only two USB programmers I have
are from Castle Creations and FlightPower for its FlightTech controllers,
and I have been using them for sometime. But there might be others.
I mentioned that I prefer using a USB device to any other method of
programming, and I’ve gotten some questions about why. The short
answer is that it’s easy. For the long answer, keep reading.
Castle Creations was the first to come out with a USB programmer:
the Castle Link. It has evolved and the capabilities are exceptional,
allowing the user to program both controllers and the Berg line of
receivers. Customer service is unsurpassed and e-mails are promptly
answered.
I hate programming controllers by using the throttle stick on the
radio. I love the fact that all controllers allow you to do that, because if
you are at the field and need to make a change, you can. However, it’s
cumbersome and all manufacturers seem to have their own methods of
doing it.
That means you better carry your instructions with you all the time. I
keep them in my flight box.
What I like about the Castle Link is that I
get it all on one screen and it can get help files
if I have a question. Look closely at the screen
shots I’ve included this month, and you’ll see
small question marks in blue circles near most
of the settings. Clicking on these opens
windows with explanations, to help you
decide what to do. Reading through these is
like a lesson on speed controls, so it’s worth
the time to do it now and then.
Perhaps the best thing about a USB device
such as the Castle Link is that it also keeps
your speed control up to date with the latest
firmware. There’s no more replacing them
because motors and batteries have changed
technologies. Plug in the Castle Link, and it
will update your ESC to the latest version, for
free!
If you’re like I am, and if you’re lucky
you’re smarter than I am, you have some
controllers that are missing the labels. Velcro
has been attached and removed, taking the
labels with it. I end up with a couple different
controllers that look similar but aren’t the
same, and I don’t know which is which.
I can plug a controller into the Castle
Link, and the software identifies it. If it’s not
the latest version of firmware, I am asked if I
want to update. Now I label the shrink-wrap
with a marker, so I don’t forget what it is.
Throttle settings seem to bring up
questions all the time. On the Castle Creations
controllers, you have “auto-calibrate” or
“fixed endpoints.” For 90% of your
applications, you’ll be fine using the autocalibrate
function, but you want to use fixed
endpoints if you’re doing helicopters or
multiengine projects.
That allows you to set the throttle
endpoints from the radio so they are all the
same on a multiengine model. Auto-calibrate
is disabled if you select helicopter.
In the helicopter section of the throttle
setup screen, you’ll find “initial spool up”
and “head speed change rate” settings. The
default is a good place to start if you’re
unsure of your need, but you can also tweak
it to tune for your flying style or particular
motor/gearing setup.
I’m not a 3-D flier, so I use a slow spool
up, and it’s easier on the gears. But if you
need to throttle up quickly, you can change
it here. The help file in the window reads:
“The faster the spool up speed, the faster
the head will spin-up. Once the head-speed
is very near the target level, spool up
function ceases and the ‘Head Speed
Change Rate’ controls throttle changes.”
One last thing about the Castle Link
software; it allows you to save your settings
to a file or print them out. This is handy if I
want to make changes at the field, so I keep
a copy of my latest program with the
instructions. This is especially handy for
new fliers when someone asks them how
they set things up if they’re helping them.
FlightPower’s FlightTech USB Link
works in a similar fashion. Connect the USB
cord to your computer, connect the USB
Link to the cord and then to the ESC, and
connect power to the ESC.
Everything on the FlightTech USB Link
program is on one nice screen. Asterisks
designate default settings, and you can
update your controller’s software to the
latest version for free. There aren’t quite as
many options as are available with the
Castle Link, but that’s not a minus,
especially if you’re a beginner and
intimidated by all of this anyway.
A click on the “help” tab takes you to a
PDF file of instructions, but it’s mostly
about how to install it and gives little help in
deciding what to do with the settings. A trip
to the FlightPower Web site will get you to
a technical support section that addresses
areas of common concern. If you don’t find
the answer there, contact the company. It is
great at replying to your questions.
Many manufacturers have programming
cards available for their ESCs that are
extremely easy to use. No computer is
necessary, and it is easily done at the field.
You connect the ESC to the card with
the radio plug and set each parameter on the
card, which usually shows an LED for the
setting or utilizes a slide switch. When you
have everything set, you push a button and
your ESC is updated with the new settings.
Hobby Lobby carries the Jeti line, and
the Jeti box is the ultimate card-type
programmer. It does so much that it will get
its own space in a later column.
Final Approach: I’m working on a couple of
projects while it’s too hot to step outside in
central North Carolina. I’ll show you more
later, but the Piper J-3 Cub Power 46 ARF+
by Hangar 9 is an incredible offering that
costs less than $300 and includes the motor.
I’m still working on this model and
continue to be impressed with the quality
every day. I can’t wait to test-fly. MA
Sources:
Greg Gimlick’s Evo Blog:
http://blogs-modelairplanenews.com/
profile_blogs/gregg/&action=view&id=962
Michel Moret’s Power RC Electronic
www.power-rc-electronic.com
Multiplex Modelsport USA
(858) 748-6948
www.multiplexusa.com
Spektrum RC
(800) 338-4639
www.spektrumrc.com
FlightPower
(800) 637-7660
www.flightpowerbatteries.com
Castle Creations
(913) 390-6939
www.castlecreations.com
Hobby Lobby International
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
Hangar 9
(800) 338-4639
www.hangar-9.com
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/10
Page Numbers: 103,104
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/10
Page Numbers: 103,104
LET’S START
with an update on a
couple of items I
wrote about in the
last issue. I left you
with expectations of
looking at how to
use some of the USB
programmers and
why I prefer them to some other methods. But first there’s an issue
with my Spektrumized Evo, aka Franken-Evo Part II, you should
know about.
Do not drill holes in your motherboard! Remember when I wrote
that converting your radio and soldering connections inside would
void all warranties? I decided to mount the Spektrum module to the
motherboard. Since there were mounting holes and standoffs for the
module when I removed it from the case, I figured I’d use them to
bolt it to the motherboard. We had done this on Jim Ryan’s radio and
it worked great.
When I drilled the motherboard on mine, the digital adjusters quit
working. Closer examination showed that the newer Multiplex Royal
Evo radios are using a multilayer circuit board, whereas the older
ones didn’t. When you drill through them, you ruin the hidden layer.
A quick trip to Hitec/RCD service in California got a new
motherboard installed, but it wasn’t cheap.
This is the problem with do-it-yourself radio conversions if you
don’t have the latest engineering data for your board, etc. I got great
service from Hitec/RCD and the resident service guru, Tony Ohm.
For a full story with photos about how to do the conversion,
check out my blog. (See the “Sources” list for the Web address.)
You can also visit Michel Moret’s site; he carries the extra-light
version of the conversion module we used to do the internal install.
You might need to refer directly to my project so he’ll know you
want the one without the big plug on it.
Great service from Michel!
June Column Clarification: I received a lot of mail regarding
using BECs on multiengine setups when I wrote about my friend
with the jet and its
erratic speedcontrol
actions. To
be clear about this,
I was referring to
using Castle
Creations
controllers, so talk
to your
Also included in this column:
• Dual ESC BEC clarification
• USB programming devices
Royal Evo conversion warning
October 2009 103
Electrics Greg Gimlick | [email protected]
The main window in the Castle Link
software connected to an ESC. The blue
circles with question marks by certain
choices are in case you need help.
Clicking on the blue circles presents you with instructions for making your choice.
Notice the help files for the three options in the motor-parameters tab.
FlightTech and Castle Creations offer small and feature-rich
USB programming devices.
manufacturer if you’re using a different brand.
You can connect two speed controls and their BECs activated to one
receiver. This is paralleling them to the bus, and that’s fine.
You can’t connect two controllers to a Y harness with the red wire
connected and then disconnect the red wire at the receiver end of the
“Y” cord. This, in essence, shorts the two red power wires at the other
end. Software/firmware in the ESC tries to filter that out, but it’s beyond
its capability.
External USB Programmers: The only two USB programmers I have
are from Castle Creations and FlightPower for its FlightTech controllers,
and I have been using them for sometime. But there might be others.
I mentioned that I prefer using a USB device to any other method of
programming, and I’ve gotten some questions about why. The short
answer is that it’s easy. For the long answer, keep reading.
Castle Creations was the first to come out with a USB programmer:
the Castle Link. It has evolved and the capabilities are exceptional,
allowing the user to program both controllers and the Berg line of
receivers. Customer service is unsurpassed and e-mails are promptly
answered.
I hate programming controllers by using the throttle stick on the
radio. I love the fact that all controllers allow you to do that, because if
you are at the field and need to make a change, you can. However, it’s
cumbersome and all manufacturers seem to have their own methods of
doing it.
That means you better carry your instructions with you all the time. I
keep them in my flight box.
What I like about the Castle Link is that I
get it all on one screen and it can get help files
if I have a question. Look closely at the screen
shots I’ve included this month, and you’ll see
small question marks in blue circles near most
of the settings. Clicking on these opens
windows with explanations, to help you
decide what to do. Reading through these is
like a lesson on speed controls, so it’s worth
the time to do it now and then.
Perhaps the best thing about a USB device
such as the Castle Link is that it also keeps
your speed control up to date with the latest
firmware. There’s no more replacing them
because motors and batteries have changed
technologies. Plug in the Castle Link, and it
will update your ESC to the latest version, for
free!
If you’re like I am, and if you’re lucky
you’re smarter than I am, you have some
controllers that are missing the labels. Velcro
has been attached and removed, taking the
labels with it. I end up with a couple different
controllers that look similar but aren’t the
same, and I don’t know which is which.
I can plug a controller into the Castle
Link, and the software identifies it. If it’s not
the latest version of firmware, I am asked if I
want to update. Now I label the shrink-wrap
with a marker, so I don’t forget what it is.
Throttle settings seem to bring up
questions all the time. On the Castle Creations
controllers, you have “auto-calibrate” or
“fixed endpoints.” For 90% of your
applications, you’ll be fine using the autocalibrate
function, but you want to use fixed
endpoints if you’re doing helicopters or
multiengine projects.
That allows you to set the throttle
endpoints from the radio so they are all the
same on a multiengine model. Auto-calibrate
is disabled if you select helicopter.
In the helicopter section of the throttle
setup screen, you’ll find “initial spool up”
and “head speed change rate” settings. The
default is a good place to start if you’re
unsure of your need, but you can also tweak
it to tune for your flying style or particular
motor/gearing setup.
I’m not a 3-D flier, so I use a slow spool
up, and it’s easier on the gears. But if you
need to throttle up quickly, you can change
it here. The help file in the window reads:
“The faster the spool up speed, the faster
the head will spin-up. Once the head-speed
is very near the target level, spool up
function ceases and the ‘Head Speed
Change Rate’ controls throttle changes.”
One last thing about the Castle Link
software; it allows you to save your settings
to a file or print them out. This is handy if I
want to make changes at the field, so I keep
a copy of my latest program with the
instructions. This is especially handy for
new fliers when someone asks them how
they set things up if they’re helping them.
FlightPower’s FlightTech USB Link
works in a similar fashion. Connect the USB
cord to your computer, connect the USB
Link to the cord and then to the ESC, and
connect power to the ESC.
Everything on the FlightTech USB Link
program is on one nice screen. Asterisks
designate default settings, and you can
update your controller’s software to the
latest version for free. There aren’t quite as
many options as are available with the
Castle Link, but that’s not a minus,
especially if you’re a beginner and
intimidated by all of this anyway.
A click on the “help” tab takes you to a
PDF file of instructions, but it’s mostly
about how to install it and gives little help in
deciding what to do with the settings. A trip
to the FlightPower Web site will get you to
a technical support section that addresses
areas of common concern. If you don’t find
the answer there, contact the company. It is
great at replying to your questions.
Many manufacturers have programming
cards available for their ESCs that are
extremely easy to use. No computer is
necessary, and it is easily done at the field.
You connect the ESC to the card with
the radio plug and set each parameter on the
card, which usually shows an LED for the
setting or utilizes a slide switch. When you
have everything set, you push a button and
your ESC is updated with the new settings.
Hobby Lobby carries the Jeti line, and
the Jeti box is the ultimate card-type
programmer. It does so much that it will get
its own space in a later column.
Final Approach: I’m working on a couple of
projects while it’s too hot to step outside in
central North Carolina. I’ll show you more
later, but the Piper J-3 Cub Power 46 ARF+
by Hangar 9 is an incredible offering that
costs less than $300 and includes the motor.
I’m still working on this model and
continue to be impressed with the quality
every day. I can’t wait to test-fly. MA
Sources:
Greg Gimlick’s Evo Blog:
http://blogs-modelairplanenews.com/
profile_blogs/gregg/&action=view&id=962
Michel Moret’s Power RC Electronic
www.power-rc-electronic.com
Multiplex Modelsport USA
(858) 748-6948
www.multiplexusa.com
Spektrum RC
(800) 338-4639
www.spektrumrc.com
FlightPower
(800) 637-7660
www.flightpowerbatteries.com
Castle Creations
(913) 390-6939
www.castlecreations.com
Hobby Lobby International
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
Hangar 9
(800) 338-4639
www.hangar-9.com