I began flying RC model airplanes when I was a boy, and at that time there were
few RTF aircraft on the market. The only viable option was to build my own.
I spent many hours building and repairing my airplanes while learning how to
fly. I soon found that I enjoyed building models as much as I enjoyed flying them,
and that the experience could be relaxing and rewarding.
Today, with all of the wonderful RTF airplanes on the market, most people
choose not to build their own models. I think a great way to get into the hobby
is by purchasing an RTF airplane, but people should try building at some point
to see the benefits of constructing their own model. You can even salvage the RC
gear from a crashed or worn-out RTF model and use it in the airplane you want to
build.
One of the fun aspects of building is learning new techniques. I just finished
building a kit of Gordon Johnson’s wonderful Cartoon Scale Pitts that required a
few techniques that I hadn’t tried before.
Building the Cartoon Scale Pitts
Gordon Johnson flew the new Cartoon Scale Pitts he designed at last year’s
Northeast Electric Aircraft Technology (NEAT) Fair indoor event. People were so
impressed with the model that Gordon created a few laser-cut kits for those who
wanted to build one of their own.
He sent the kits to Bob Selman to distribute and evaluate for possible
production. I was excited about building one, and was also asked to evaluate the
kit.
The kit included all necessary laser-cut foam and light plywood parts, laser-cut
painting templates, and MicroLite covering material. I only had to supply my own
carbon rod, motor, and radio gear.
Gordon uses MicroLite film to cover the model. The graphics are painted on
with his laser-cut painting templates. MicroLite is a pigmented, self-adhesive, heatshrinkable
film for covering lightweight models. The film is lighter than Japanese
tissue, and available in various colors. It can be purchased from David Lewis
through Homefly.
I have had great success with this covering on various balsa models, but have
never attempted to use it on foam. Heat is needed to shrink the material, which
would melt or warp the foam parts. I had never tried using templates to paint my
graphics on the foam, either.
The first step in covering the Pitts is painting the graphics on the MicroLite.
Gordon recommends starting with the horizontal stabilizer because it is a good
airframe component on which to practice.
After attaching the elevator to the stabilizer, cut the MicroLite to approximately
1 inch larger than the stabilizer. Tape the material onto a smooth piece of wood
with the shiny side up, using small pieces of masking tape.
Spray the stabilizer painting template on one side using Delta Stencil Magic or
Stencil Ease spray, which is available in craft stores. Let it dry for roughly 2 minutes
until the adhesive becomes partially dry and tacky.
Apply the template to the taped-down film. Tape some newspaper around the
painting template and press down one last time to help seal the edges.
Spray on your graphics using Krylon paint in the color of your choice. I used
white MicroLite and bright red Krylon paint for my graphics because I thought it
would look nice and produce a lightweight
airframe. It only needs two or three light
coats. Wait a minute or two between each
pass.
After painting, immediately remove
the template to minimize any bleeding
underneath. After it is dry, carefully peel off
the masking tape, then place the film back
onto your building board with the graphics
side down. Tape down on all sides as you
did before, getting the material as tight as
possible.
Two triangles are painted on the centerline
of the horizontal stabilizer graphics to aid
in alignment; align the stabilizer onto the
film. Cut half of the Depron foam that the
stabilizer piece came out of so it can be
used as an alignment tool. Place the Depron
alignment piece over the stabilizer and
weigh it down. This will be used for quick
positioning of the stabilizer.
Dust the stabilizer skeleton with
3M Super 77 Multipurpose spray
adhesive. Make two light passes from
approximately 12 inches high. Quickly
place the adhesive-coated stabilizer
skeleton back down onto the fi lm
using the Depron alignment piece as a
guide. Place a smooth, fl at board on the
stabilizer and fi rmly press down. Now
you can trim the covering around the
perimeter of the stabilizer using a sharp
hobby knife. I used a #11 blade.
This completes painting and covering
the horizontal stabilizer. The rest of the
model is covered and painted in the
same manner. After covering, I added
some black pinstripe tape to highlight
the graphics. This technique of painting
graphics over the MicroLite material
works well, and I expect to use it on
other models.
The rest of the assembly went quickly.
The kit included several paper-cutting
templates to cut the opening in the
fuselage for different motor options. I
chose the one for the 4-Site gearbox and
motor. I cut this out before covering the
fuselage with the MicroLite.
The kit included some 1/32- and 1/64-
inch laser-cut plywood pieces that were
glued together and fi t into the 4-Site
gearbox for a motor mount. After
covering the fuselage, I glued in the
motor gearbox assembly with some UHU
foam glue.
I used the UHU glue for most of the
model’s construction, but foam-safe CA
would have also worked well. I glued the
stabilizer into the fuselage and attached
the rudder with Blenderm tape.
I installed my AR6400 receiver, and
attached my control horns and pushrods
for the elevator and rudder. It is easier to
do this before gluing on the wings.
I installed two Spektrum 1.7-gram
long-throw servos onto the bottom
wing, and attached the control horns and
pushrods for the ailerons. I made sure
everything was working properly, and
then glued the wings onto the model. I
added the wing struts, and carbon-fi ber
wing bracing.
The landing
gear consists
of two pieces of
carbon-fi ber rod that
are glued into the lasercut
landing gear mount, and
bent music wire for the axles.
I colored the laser-cut plywood wheels
with a Sharpie, and glued the landing gear
assembly into the fuselage. My ready-tofl
y model weighed 37 grams, with a 160
mAh LiPo Thunder Power cell installed.
Flying the Pitts
The model was designed to be a slowfl
ying one, but I hoped for some aerobatic
potential. After all, this is a Pitts model!
The model is a great slow fl yer that can
turn on a dime without stalling. However,
I had to add some aileron-to-rudder mix
in my Spektrum DX7 to get it to make
smooth, coordinated turns. The Pitts is
stable and easy to fl y.
I mounted the battery on the bottom
of the fuselage, but the model was not
turning well with the ailerons. After
moving it to the top of the fuselage, the
model made nice turns, but still needed
some aileron-to-rudder mix.
It was time to test the model’s
aerobatic potential. The Pitts makes nice
loops and barrel rolls, but needs larger
ailerons for crisp aileron rolls.
I may modify and increase the size of
the ailerons at some point, but it is fun
to fl y as it was designed. Gordon has
a winner with his Cartoon Scale Pitts
design. The airplane puts a smile on your
face when you see it fl y!
If you are interested in building the
aircraft, please contact Bob Selman at Bob
Selman Designs for the kit. You can also
build one from Gordon’s plans, which
should be posted on his build thread on
www.RCGroups.com by the time you
read this. You can access it from the link
listed in “Sources,” or search the indoor
and micro models section under Cartoon
Scale Pitts.
GeminiRC P-51 Mustang
I was looking around my local hobby
shop, Time Flys
Hobbies located
in Scranton,
Pennsylvania, and
noticed a new line of Bind-N-Fly (BNF)
models from GeminiRC. The shop had
several models on display, including an
Extra 300, a Sukhoi SU-26, a Yakovlev
Yak-54, a Zivko Edge 540, and a P-51
Mustang.
I was interested in the Mustang
because it had the beautiful paint
scheme of World War II Triple Ace Bud
Anderson’s P-51, called Old Crow. I had
the pleasure of meeting Bud at several air
shows throughout the years and listening
to the amazing war stories of him fl ying
his Mustang in combat!
Time Flys Hobbies allowed me to take
the model home to test its performance. I
accepted the offer, and want to thank the
company for its generosity by including
this review of the model in my column.
The aircraft comes completely
assembled and packaged in a nice
carrying/storage case. The four-channel
model includes a 150 mAh LiPo battery,
battery charger/stand, extra propeller,
and instructions. Only four AA batteries
for the charger and a DSM-compatible
four-channel transmitter are required to
fl y the model. The Mustang has some
nice scale details, such as molded-in
panel lines, engine exhaust pipes, and a
clear canopy.
The top of the nose cowling is
removable for access to the radio/battery
compartment and is held in place by
a magnet. The receiver is 2.4 GHz
Spektrum-compatible, and came with
a bind plug attached. I had no trouble
binding the receiver with my DX7
transmitter. After binding, remove the
plug and you are ready to fl y.
The 150 mAh LiPo cell charges in the
nice display-stand charger; the stand is a
nice touch. The battery is placed inside
the cowling compartment in the provided
slot. I like that the battery is concealed
inside the fuselage. After testing the
flight controls for proper direction and
movement, it was time to fly.
In the Air
The GeminiRC P-51 has a scale
outline, so I was interested in seeing
how it performed. I have built several
P-51 Mustangs throughout the years,
and even designed a few of my own. My
experience with the airplane has shown
me that a P-51 model with a scale outline
can be difficult to fly, especially when
slowed down.
For my first flight, I flew the model
over grass and hand launched it. The
aircraft climbed out with authority, with
just a touch of aileron trim needed for
level flight. The model really grooves at
full power!
I did nice point rolls, low passes, and
inverted flight (it flies great inverted).
I then took it up and tried some slow
flights.
I found that I could slow the model
down, but when it stalled, it required
approximately 10 to 20 feet to recover.
I also found out the hard way that the
model would stall out if I pulled back too
hard on the elevator at the bottom of a
loop. I recovered from the stall, but that
got my attention!
The aircraft is capable of nice, large
loops from level flight, but you have to
let it fly through the loop by using little
or no back pressure. The Mustang is easy
to land on grass. Keep a little speed and
let it glide in.
I did not get a chance to test the model
on pavement, but I am sure it will do fine.
I removed the landing gear for a more
realistic appearance in flight.
Overall, the model is fun to fly and
it flies well. It may take a few flights
to get used to it, but an intermediateto-
experienced pilot should have no
problems. The model has a list price of
$79.99. See the GeminiRC website listed
in “Sources” for more information.
2012 Indoor Night at NEAT
This year’s Indoor Night at the NEAT
Fair will be held on Saturday, September
15, at the Downsville school gymnasium
from noon to 10 p.m. We are planning
a big night of flying with some of the
world’s best micro modelers.
We will hold the halftime show from
approximately 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.,
showcasing some of the outstanding
models that will be flown.
The event will be open to the public
for flying, but only micro models
built from kits, scratch-built, or of the
modeler’s own design can fly. They
must also weigh 2 ounces or less and be
capable of flying safely in the small gym.
The purpose of this event is to
showcase indoor models that are built
by some of the many talented modelers
across the country! No ready-to-fly
models will be allowed to fly except for
manufacturer product demos during the
halftime show.
If anyone is interested in flying, please
email me to preregister. The cost is $25
for pilots, with all proceeds donated to
the school. AMA or Park Pilot insurance
is required.
The event is free for spectators, so
please stop by and see some of these
amazing indoor models fly! Contact me,
or see the NEAT Fair website for all the
latest updates.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/09
Page Numbers: 79,80,81,82
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/09
Page Numbers: 79,80,81,82
I began flying RC model airplanes when I was a boy, and at that time there were
few RTF aircraft on the market. The only viable option was to build my own.
I spent many hours building and repairing my airplanes while learning how to
fly. I soon found that I enjoyed building models as much as I enjoyed flying them,
and that the experience could be relaxing and rewarding.
Today, with all of the wonderful RTF airplanes on the market, most people
choose not to build their own models. I think a great way to get into the hobby
is by purchasing an RTF airplane, but people should try building at some point
to see the benefits of constructing their own model. You can even salvage the RC
gear from a crashed or worn-out RTF model and use it in the airplane you want to
build.
One of the fun aspects of building is learning new techniques. I just finished
building a kit of Gordon Johnson’s wonderful Cartoon Scale Pitts that required a
few techniques that I hadn’t tried before.
Building the Cartoon Scale Pitts
Gordon Johnson flew the new Cartoon Scale Pitts he designed at last year’s
Northeast Electric Aircraft Technology (NEAT) Fair indoor event. People were so
impressed with the model that Gordon created a few laser-cut kits for those who
wanted to build one of their own.
He sent the kits to Bob Selman to distribute and evaluate for possible
production. I was excited about building one, and was also asked to evaluate the
kit.
The kit included all necessary laser-cut foam and light plywood parts, laser-cut
painting templates, and MicroLite covering material. I only had to supply my own
carbon rod, motor, and radio gear.
Gordon uses MicroLite film to cover the model. The graphics are painted on
with his laser-cut painting templates. MicroLite is a pigmented, self-adhesive, heatshrinkable
film for covering lightweight models. The film is lighter than Japanese
tissue, and available in various colors. It can be purchased from David Lewis
through Homefly.
I have had great success with this covering on various balsa models, but have
never attempted to use it on foam. Heat is needed to shrink the material, which
would melt or warp the foam parts. I had never tried using templates to paint my
graphics on the foam, either.
The first step in covering the Pitts is painting the graphics on the MicroLite.
Gordon recommends starting with the horizontal stabilizer because it is a good
airframe component on which to practice.
After attaching the elevator to the stabilizer, cut the MicroLite to approximately
1 inch larger than the stabilizer. Tape the material onto a smooth piece of wood
with the shiny side up, using small pieces of masking tape.
Spray the stabilizer painting template on one side using Delta Stencil Magic or
Stencil Ease spray, which is available in craft stores. Let it dry for roughly 2 minutes
until the adhesive becomes partially dry and tacky.
Apply the template to the taped-down film. Tape some newspaper around the
painting template and press down one last time to help seal the edges.
Spray on your graphics using Krylon paint in the color of your choice. I used
white MicroLite and bright red Krylon paint for my graphics because I thought it
would look nice and produce a lightweight
airframe. It only needs two or three light
coats. Wait a minute or two between each
pass.
After painting, immediately remove
the template to minimize any bleeding
underneath. After it is dry, carefully peel off
the masking tape, then place the film back
onto your building board with the graphics
side down. Tape down on all sides as you
did before, getting the material as tight as
possible.
Two triangles are painted on the centerline
of the horizontal stabilizer graphics to aid
in alignment; align the stabilizer onto the
film. Cut half of the Depron foam that the
stabilizer piece came out of so it can be
used as an alignment tool. Place the Depron
alignment piece over the stabilizer and
weigh it down. This will be used for quick
positioning of the stabilizer.
Dust the stabilizer skeleton with
3M Super 77 Multipurpose spray
adhesive. Make two light passes from
approximately 12 inches high. Quickly
place the adhesive-coated stabilizer
skeleton back down onto the fi lm
using the Depron alignment piece as a
guide. Place a smooth, fl at board on the
stabilizer and fi rmly press down. Now
you can trim the covering around the
perimeter of the stabilizer using a sharp
hobby knife. I used a #11 blade.
This completes painting and covering
the horizontal stabilizer. The rest of the
model is covered and painted in the
same manner. After covering, I added
some black pinstripe tape to highlight
the graphics. This technique of painting
graphics over the MicroLite material
works well, and I expect to use it on
other models.
The rest of the assembly went quickly.
The kit included several paper-cutting
templates to cut the opening in the
fuselage for different motor options. I
chose the one for the 4-Site gearbox and
motor. I cut this out before covering the
fuselage with the MicroLite.
The kit included some 1/32- and 1/64-
inch laser-cut plywood pieces that were
glued together and fi t into the 4-Site
gearbox for a motor mount. After
covering the fuselage, I glued in the
motor gearbox assembly with some UHU
foam glue.
I used the UHU glue for most of the
model’s construction, but foam-safe CA
would have also worked well. I glued the
stabilizer into the fuselage and attached
the rudder with Blenderm tape.
I installed my AR6400 receiver, and
attached my control horns and pushrods
for the elevator and rudder. It is easier to
do this before gluing on the wings.
I installed two Spektrum 1.7-gram
long-throw servos onto the bottom
wing, and attached the control horns and
pushrods for the ailerons. I made sure
everything was working properly, and
then glued the wings onto the model. I
added the wing struts, and carbon-fi ber
wing bracing.
The landing
gear consists
of two pieces of
carbon-fi ber rod that
are glued into the lasercut
landing gear mount, and
bent music wire for the axles.
I colored the laser-cut plywood wheels
with a Sharpie, and glued the landing gear
assembly into the fuselage. My ready-tofl
y model weighed 37 grams, with a 160
mAh LiPo Thunder Power cell installed.
Flying the Pitts
The model was designed to be a slowfl
ying one, but I hoped for some aerobatic
potential. After all, this is a Pitts model!
The model is a great slow fl yer that can
turn on a dime without stalling. However,
I had to add some aileron-to-rudder mix
in my Spektrum DX7 to get it to make
smooth, coordinated turns. The Pitts is
stable and easy to fl y.
I mounted the battery on the bottom
of the fuselage, but the model was not
turning well with the ailerons. After
moving it to the top of the fuselage, the
model made nice turns, but still needed
some aileron-to-rudder mix.
It was time to test the model’s
aerobatic potential. The Pitts makes nice
loops and barrel rolls, but needs larger
ailerons for crisp aileron rolls.
I may modify and increase the size of
the ailerons at some point, but it is fun
to fl y as it was designed. Gordon has
a winner with his Cartoon Scale Pitts
design. The airplane puts a smile on your
face when you see it fl y!
If you are interested in building the
aircraft, please contact Bob Selman at Bob
Selman Designs for the kit. You can also
build one from Gordon’s plans, which
should be posted on his build thread on
www.RCGroups.com by the time you
read this. You can access it from the link
listed in “Sources,” or search the indoor
and micro models section under Cartoon
Scale Pitts.
GeminiRC P-51 Mustang
I was looking around my local hobby
shop, Time Flys
Hobbies located
in Scranton,
Pennsylvania, and
noticed a new line of Bind-N-Fly (BNF)
models from GeminiRC. The shop had
several models on display, including an
Extra 300, a Sukhoi SU-26, a Yakovlev
Yak-54, a Zivko Edge 540, and a P-51
Mustang.
I was interested in the Mustang
because it had the beautiful paint
scheme of World War II Triple Ace Bud
Anderson’s P-51, called Old Crow. I had
the pleasure of meeting Bud at several air
shows throughout the years and listening
to the amazing war stories of him fl ying
his Mustang in combat!
Time Flys Hobbies allowed me to take
the model home to test its performance. I
accepted the offer, and want to thank the
company for its generosity by including
this review of the model in my column.
The aircraft comes completely
assembled and packaged in a nice
carrying/storage case. The four-channel
model includes a 150 mAh LiPo battery,
battery charger/stand, extra propeller,
and instructions. Only four AA batteries
for the charger and a DSM-compatible
four-channel transmitter are required to
fl y the model. The Mustang has some
nice scale details, such as molded-in
panel lines, engine exhaust pipes, and a
clear canopy.
The top of the nose cowling is
removable for access to the radio/battery
compartment and is held in place by
a magnet. The receiver is 2.4 GHz
Spektrum-compatible, and came with
a bind plug attached. I had no trouble
binding the receiver with my DX7
transmitter. After binding, remove the
plug and you are ready to fl y.
The 150 mAh LiPo cell charges in the
nice display-stand charger; the stand is a
nice touch. The battery is placed inside
the cowling compartment in the provided
slot. I like that the battery is concealed
inside the fuselage. After testing the
flight controls for proper direction and
movement, it was time to fly.
In the Air
The GeminiRC P-51 has a scale
outline, so I was interested in seeing
how it performed. I have built several
P-51 Mustangs throughout the years,
and even designed a few of my own. My
experience with the airplane has shown
me that a P-51 model with a scale outline
can be difficult to fly, especially when
slowed down.
For my first flight, I flew the model
over grass and hand launched it. The
aircraft climbed out with authority, with
just a touch of aileron trim needed for
level flight. The model really grooves at
full power!
I did nice point rolls, low passes, and
inverted flight (it flies great inverted).
I then took it up and tried some slow
flights.
I found that I could slow the model
down, but when it stalled, it required
approximately 10 to 20 feet to recover.
I also found out the hard way that the
model would stall out if I pulled back too
hard on the elevator at the bottom of a
loop. I recovered from the stall, but that
got my attention!
The aircraft is capable of nice, large
loops from level flight, but you have to
let it fly through the loop by using little
or no back pressure. The Mustang is easy
to land on grass. Keep a little speed and
let it glide in.
I did not get a chance to test the model
on pavement, but I am sure it will do fine.
I removed the landing gear for a more
realistic appearance in flight.
Overall, the model is fun to fly and
it flies well. It may take a few flights
to get used to it, but an intermediateto-
experienced pilot should have no
problems. The model has a list price of
$79.99. See the GeminiRC website listed
in “Sources” for more information.
2012 Indoor Night at NEAT
This year’s Indoor Night at the NEAT
Fair will be held on Saturday, September
15, at the Downsville school gymnasium
from noon to 10 p.m. We are planning
a big night of flying with some of the
world’s best micro modelers.
We will hold the halftime show from
approximately 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.,
showcasing some of the outstanding
models that will be flown.
The event will be open to the public
for flying, but only micro models
built from kits, scratch-built, or of the
modeler’s own design can fly. They
must also weigh 2 ounces or less and be
capable of flying safely in the small gym.
The purpose of this event is to
showcase indoor models that are built
by some of the many talented modelers
across the country! No ready-to-fly
models will be allowed to fly except for
manufacturer product demos during the
halftime show.
If anyone is interested in flying, please
email me to preregister. The cost is $25
for pilots, with all proceeds donated to
the school. AMA or Park Pilot insurance
is required.
The event is free for spectators, so
please stop by and see some of these
amazing indoor models fly! Contact me,
or see the NEAT Fair website for all the
latest updates.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/09
Page Numbers: 79,80,81,82
I began flying RC model airplanes when I was a boy, and at that time there were
few RTF aircraft on the market. The only viable option was to build my own.
I spent many hours building and repairing my airplanes while learning how to
fly. I soon found that I enjoyed building models as much as I enjoyed flying them,
and that the experience could be relaxing and rewarding.
Today, with all of the wonderful RTF airplanes on the market, most people
choose not to build their own models. I think a great way to get into the hobby
is by purchasing an RTF airplane, but people should try building at some point
to see the benefits of constructing their own model. You can even salvage the RC
gear from a crashed or worn-out RTF model and use it in the airplane you want to
build.
One of the fun aspects of building is learning new techniques. I just finished
building a kit of Gordon Johnson’s wonderful Cartoon Scale Pitts that required a
few techniques that I hadn’t tried before.
Building the Cartoon Scale Pitts
Gordon Johnson flew the new Cartoon Scale Pitts he designed at last year’s
Northeast Electric Aircraft Technology (NEAT) Fair indoor event. People were so
impressed with the model that Gordon created a few laser-cut kits for those who
wanted to build one of their own.
He sent the kits to Bob Selman to distribute and evaluate for possible
production. I was excited about building one, and was also asked to evaluate the
kit.
The kit included all necessary laser-cut foam and light plywood parts, laser-cut
painting templates, and MicroLite covering material. I only had to supply my own
carbon rod, motor, and radio gear.
Gordon uses MicroLite film to cover the model. The graphics are painted on
with his laser-cut painting templates. MicroLite is a pigmented, self-adhesive, heatshrinkable
film for covering lightweight models. The film is lighter than Japanese
tissue, and available in various colors. It can be purchased from David Lewis
through Homefly.
I have had great success with this covering on various balsa models, but have
never attempted to use it on foam. Heat is needed to shrink the material, which
would melt or warp the foam parts. I had never tried using templates to paint my
graphics on the foam, either.
The first step in covering the Pitts is painting the graphics on the MicroLite.
Gordon recommends starting with the horizontal stabilizer because it is a good
airframe component on which to practice.
After attaching the elevator to the stabilizer, cut the MicroLite to approximately
1 inch larger than the stabilizer. Tape the material onto a smooth piece of wood
with the shiny side up, using small pieces of masking tape.
Spray the stabilizer painting template on one side using Delta Stencil Magic or
Stencil Ease spray, which is available in craft stores. Let it dry for roughly 2 minutes
until the adhesive becomes partially dry and tacky.
Apply the template to the taped-down film. Tape some newspaper around the
painting template and press down one last time to help seal the edges.
Spray on your graphics using Krylon paint in the color of your choice. I used
white MicroLite and bright red Krylon paint for my graphics because I thought it
would look nice and produce a lightweight
airframe. It only needs two or three light
coats. Wait a minute or two between each
pass.
After painting, immediately remove
the template to minimize any bleeding
underneath. After it is dry, carefully peel off
the masking tape, then place the film back
onto your building board with the graphics
side down. Tape down on all sides as you
did before, getting the material as tight as
possible.
Two triangles are painted on the centerline
of the horizontal stabilizer graphics to aid
in alignment; align the stabilizer onto the
film. Cut half of the Depron foam that the
stabilizer piece came out of so it can be
used as an alignment tool. Place the Depron
alignment piece over the stabilizer and
weigh it down. This will be used for quick
positioning of the stabilizer.
Dust the stabilizer skeleton with
3M Super 77 Multipurpose spray
adhesive. Make two light passes from
approximately 12 inches high. Quickly
place the adhesive-coated stabilizer
skeleton back down onto the fi lm
using the Depron alignment piece as a
guide. Place a smooth, fl at board on the
stabilizer and fi rmly press down. Now
you can trim the covering around the
perimeter of the stabilizer using a sharp
hobby knife. I used a #11 blade.
This completes painting and covering
the horizontal stabilizer. The rest of the
model is covered and painted in the
same manner. After covering, I added
some black pinstripe tape to highlight
the graphics. This technique of painting
graphics over the MicroLite material
works well, and I expect to use it on
other models.
The rest of the assembly went quickly.
The kit included several paper-cutting
templates to cut the opening in the
fuselage for different motor options. I
chose the one for the 4-Site gearbox and
motor. I cut this out before covering the
fuselage with the MicroLite.
The kit included some 1/32- and 1/64-
inch laser-cut plywood pieces that were
glued together and fi t into the 4-Site
gearbox for a motor mount. After
covering the fuselage, I glued in the
motor gearbox assembly with some UHU
foam glue.
I used the UHU glue for most of the
model’s construction, but foam-safe CA
would have also worked well. I glued the
stabilizer into the fuselage and attached
the rudder with Blenderm tape.
I installed my AR6400 receiver, and
attached my control horns and pushrods
for the elevator and rudder. It is easier to
do this before gluing on the wings.
I installed two Spektrum 1.7-gram
long-throw servos onto the bottom
wing, and attached the control horns and
pushrods for the ailerons. I made sure
everything was working properly, and
then glued the wings onto the model. I
added the wing struts, and carbon-fi ber
wing bracing.
The landing
gear consists
of two pieces of
carbon-fi ber rod that
are glued into the lasercut
landing gear mount, and
bent music wire for the axles.
I colored the laser-cut plywood wheels
with a Sharpie, and glued the landing gear
assembly into the fuselage. My ready-tofl
y model weighed 37 grams, with a 160
mAh LiPo Thunder Power cell installed.
Flying the Pitts
The model was designed to be a slowfl
ying one, but I hoped for some aerobatic
potential. After all, this is a Pitts model!
The model is a great slow fl yer that can
turn on a dime without stalling. However,
I had to add some aileron-to-rudder mix
in my Spektrum DX7 to get it to make
smooth, coordinated turns. The Pitts is
stable and easy to fl y.
I mounted the battery on the bottom
of the fuselage, but the model was not
turning well with the ailerons. After
moving it to the top of the fuselage, the
model made nice turns, but still needed
some aileron-to-rudder mix.
It was time to test the model’s
aerobatic potential. The Pitts makes nice
loops and barrel rolls, but needs larger
ailerons for crisp aileron rolls.
I may modify and increase the size of
the ailerons at some point, but it is fun
to fl y as it was designed. Gordon has
a winner with his Cartoon Scale Pitts
design. The airplane puts a smile on your
face when you see it fl y!
If you are interested in building the
aircraft, please contact Bob Selman at Bob
Selman Designs for the kit. You can also
build one from Gordon’s plans, which
should be posted on his build thread on
www.RCGroups.com by the time you
read this. You can access it from the link
listed in “Sources,” or search the indoor
and micro models section under Cartoon
Scale Pitts.
GeminiRC P-51 Mustang
I was looking around my local hobby
shop, Time Flys
Hobbies located
in Scranton,
Pennsylvania, and
noticed a new line of Bind-N-Fly (BNF)
models from GeminiRC. The shop had
several models on display, including an
Extra 300, a Sukhoi SU-26, a Yakovlev
Yak-54, a Zivko Edge 540, and a P-51
Mustang.
I was interested in the Mustang
because it had the beautiful paint
scheme of World War II Triple Ace Bud
Anderson’s P-51, called Old Crow. I had
the pleasure of meeting Bud at several air
shows throughout the years and listening
to the amazing war stories of him fl ying
his Mustang in combat!
Time Flys Hobbies allowed me to take
the model home to test its performance. I
accepted the offer, and want to thank the
company for its generosity by including
this review of the model in my column.
The aircraft comes completely
assembled and packaged in a nice
carrying/storage case. The four-channel
model includes a 150 mAh LiPo battery,
battery charger/stand, extra propeller,
and instructions. Only four AA batteries
for the charger and a DSM-compatible
four-channel transmitter are required to
fl y the model. The Mustang has some
nice scale details, such as molded-in
panel lines, engine exhaust pipes, and a
clear canopy.
The top of the nose cowling is
removable for access to the radio/battery
compartment and is held in place by
a magnet. The receiver is 2.4 GHz
Spektrum-compatible, and came with
a bind plug attached. I had no trouble
binding the receiver with my DX7
transmitter. After binding, remove the
plug and you are ready to fl y.
The 150 mAh LiPo cell charges in the
nice display-stand charger; the stand is a
nice touch. The battery is placed inside
the cowling compartment in the provided
slot. I like that the battery is concealed
inside the fuselage. After testing the
flight controls for proper direction and
movement, it was time to fly.
In the Air
The GeminiRC P-51 has a scale
outline, so I was interested in seeing
how it performed. I have built several
P-51 Mustangs throughout the years,
and even designed a few of my own. My
experience with the airplane has shown
me that a P-51 model with a scale outline
can be difficult to fly, especially when
slowed down.
For my first flight, I flew the model
over grass and hand launched it. The
aircraft climbed out with authority, with
just a touch of aileron trim needed for
level flight. The model really grooves at
full power!
I did nice point rolls, low passes, and
inverted flight (it flies great inverted).
I then took it up and tried some slow
flights.
I found that I could slow the model
down, but when it stalled, it required
approximately 10 to 20 feet to recover.
I also found out the hard way that the
model would stall out if I pulled back too
hard on the elevator at the bottom of a
loop. I recovered from the stall, but that
got my attention!
The aircraft is capable of nice, large
loops from level flight, but you have to
let it fly through the loop by using little
or no back pressure. The Mustang is easy
to land on grass. Keep a little speed and
let it glide in.
I did not get a chance to test the model
on pavement, but I am sure it will do fine.
I removed the landing gear for a more
realistic appearance in flight.
Overall, the model is fun to fly and
it flies well. It may take a few flights
to get used to it, but an intermediateto-
experienced pilot should have no
problems. The model has a list price of
$79.99. See the GeminiRC website listed
in “Sources” for more information.
2012 Indoor Night at NEAT
This year’s Indoor Night at the NEAT
Fair will be held on Saturday, September
15, at the Downsville school gymnasium
from noon to 10 p.m. We are planning
a big night of flying with some of the
world’s best micro modelers.
We will hold the halftime show from
approximately 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.,
showcasing some of the outstanding
models that will be flown.
The event will be open to the public
for flying, but only micro models
built from kits, scratch-built, or of the
modeler’s own design can fly. They
must also weigh 2 ounces or less and be
capable of flying safely in the small gym.
The purpose of this event is to
showcase indoor models that are built
by some of the many talented modelers
across the country! No ready-to-fly
models will be allowed to fly except for
manufacturer product demos during the
halftime show.
If anyone is interested in flying, please
email me to preregister. The cost is $25
for pilots, with all proceeds donated to
the school. AMA or Park Pilot insurance
is required.
The event is free for spectators, so
please stop by and see some of these
amazing indoor models fly! Contact me,
or see the NEAT Fair website for all the
latest updates.
Edition: Model Aviation - 2012/09
Page Numbers: 79,80,81,82
I began flying RC model airplanes when I was a boy, and at that time there were
few RTF aircraft on the market. The only viable option was to build my own.
I spent many hours building and repairing my airplanes while learning how to
fly. I soon found that I enjoyed building models as much as I enjoyed flying them,
and that the experience could be relaxing and rewarding.
Today, with all of the wonderful RTF airplanes on the market, most people
choose not to build their own models. I think a great way to get into the hobby
is by purchasing an RTF airplane, but people should try building at some point
to see the benefits of constructing their own model. You can even salvage the RC
gear from a crashed or worn-out RTF model and use it in the airplane you want to
build.
One of the fun aspects of building is learning new techniques. I just finished
building a kit of Gordon Johnson’s wonderful Cartoon Scale Pitts that required a
few techniques that I hadn’t tried before.
Building the Cartoon Scale Pitts
Gordon Johnson flew the new Cartoon Scale Pitts he designed at last year’s
Northeast Electric Aircraft Technology (NEAT) Fair indoor event. People were so
impressed with the model that Gordon created a few laser-cut kits for those who
wanted to build one of their own.
He sent the kits to Bob Selman to distribute and evaluate for possible
production. I was excited about building one, and was also asked to evaluate the
kit.
The kit included all necessary laser-cut foam and light plywood parts, laser-cut
painting templates, and MicroLite covering material. I only had to supply my own
carbon rod, motor, and radio gear.
Gordon uses MicroLite film to cover the model. The graphics are painted on
with his laser-cut painting templates. MicroLite is a pigmented, self-adhesive, heatshrinkable
film for covering lightweight models. The film is lighter than Japanese
tissue, and available in various colors. It can be purchased from David Lewis
through Homefly.
I have had great success with this covering on various balsa models, but have
never attempted to use it on foam. Heat is needed to shrink the material, which
would melt or warp the foam parts. I had never tried using templates to paint my
graphics on the foam, either.
The first step in covering the Pitts is painting the graphics on the MicroLite.
Gordon recommends starting with the horizontal stabilizer because it is a good
airframe component on which to practice.
After attaching the elevator to the stabilizer, cut the MicroLite to approximately
1 inch larger than the stabilizer. Tape the material onto a smooth piece of wood
with the shiny side up, using small pieces of masking tape.
Spray the stabilizer painting template on one side using Delta Stencil Magic or
Stencil Ease spray, which is available in craft stores. Let it dry for roughly 2 minutes
until the adhesive becomes partially dry and tacky.
Apply the template to the taped-down film. Tape some newspaper around the
painting template and press down one last time to help seal the edges.
Spray on your graphics using Krylon paint in the color of your choice. I used
white MicroLite and bright red Krylon paint for my graphics because I thought it
would look nice and produce a lightweight
airframe. It only needs two or three light
coats. Wait a minute or two between each
pass.
After painting, immediately remove
the template to minimize any bleeding
underneath. After it is dry, carefully peel off
the masking tape, then place the film back
onto your building board with the graphics
side down. Tape down on all sides as you
did before, getting the material as tight as
possible.
Two triangles are painted on the centerline
of the horizontal stabilizer graphics to aid
in alignment; align the stabilizer onto the
film. Cut half of the Depron foam that the
stabilizer piece came out of so it can be
used as an alignment tool. Place the Depron
alignment piece over the stabilizer and
weigh it down. This will be used for quick
positioning of the stabilizer.
Dust the stabilizer skeleton with
3M Super 77 Multipurpose spray
adhesive. Make two light passes from
approximately 12 inches high. Quickly
place the adhesive-coated stabilizer
skeleton back down onto the fi lm
using the Depron alignment piece as a
guide. Place a smooth, fl at board on the
stabilizer and fi rmly press down. Now
you can trim the covering around the
perimeter of the stabilizer using a sharp
hobby knife. I used a #11 blade.
This completes painting and covering
the horizontal stabilizer. The rest of the
model is covered and painted in the
same manner. After covering, I added
some black pinstripe tape to highlight
the graphics. This technique of painting
graphics over the MicroLite material
works well, and I expect to use it on
other models.
The rest of the assembly went quickly.
The kit included several paper-cutting
templates to cut the opening in the
fuselage for different motor options. I
chose the one for the 4-Site gearbox and
motor. I cut this out before covering the
fuselage with the MicroLite.
The kit included some 1/32- and 1/64-
inch laser-cut plywood pieces that were
glued together and fi t into the 4-Site
gearbox for a motor mount. After
covering the fuselage, I glued in the
motor gearbox assembly with some UHU
foam glue.
I used the UHU glue for most of the
model’s construction, but foam-safe CA
would have also worked well. I glued the
stabilizer into the fuselage and attached
the rudder with Blenderm tape.
I installed my AR6400 receiver, and
attached my control horns and pushrods
for the elevator and rudder. It is easier to
do this before gluing on the wings.
I installed two Spektrum 1.7-gram
long-throw servos onto the bottom
wing, and attached the control horns and
pushrods for the ailerons. I made sure
everything was working properly, and
then glued the wings onto the model. I
added the wing struts, and carbon-fi ber
wing bracing.
The landing
gear consists
of two pieces of
carbon-fi ber rod that
are glued into the lasercut
landing gear mount, and
bent music wire for the axles.
I colored the laser-cut plywood wheels
with a Sharpie, and glued the landing gear
assembly into the fuselage. My ready-tofl
y model weighed 37 grams, with a 160
mAh LiPo Thunder Power cell installed.
Flying the Pitts
The model was designed to be a slowfl
ying one, but I hoped for some aerobatic
potential. After all, this is a Pitts model!
The model is a great slow fl yer that can
turn on a dime without stalling. However,
I had to add some aileron-to-rudder mix
in my Spektrum DX7 to get it to make
smooth, coordinated turns. The Pitts is
stable and easy to fl y.
I mounted the battery on the bottom
of the fuselage, but the model was not
turning well with the ailerons. After
moving it to the top of the fuselage, the
model made nice turns, but still needed
some aileron-to-rudder mix.
It was time to test the model’s
aerobatic potential. The Pitts makes nice
loops and barrel rolls, but needs larger
ailerons for crisp aileron rolls.
I may modify and increase the size of
the ailerons at some point, but it is fun
to fl y as it was designed. Gordon has
a winner with his Cartoon Scale Pitts
design. The airplane puts a smile on your
face when you see it fl y!
If you are interested in building the
aircraft, please contact Bob Selman at Bob
Selman Designs for the kit. You can also
build one from Gordon’s plans, which
should be posted on his build thread on
www.RCGroups.com by the time you
read this. You can access it from the link
listed in “Sources,” or search the indoor
and micro models section under Cartoon
Scale Pitts.
GeminiRC P-51 Mustang
I was looking around my local hobby
shop, Time Flys
Hobbies located
in Scranton,
Pennsylvania, and
noticed a new line of Bind-N-Fly (BNF)
models from GeminiRC. The shop had
several models on display, including an
Extra 300, a Sukhoi SU-26, a Yakovlev
Yak-54, a Zivko Edge 540, and a P-51
Mustang.
I was interested in the Mustang
because it had the beautiful paint
scheme of World War II Triple Ace Bud
Anderson’s P-51, called Old Crow. I had
the pleasure of meeting Bud at several air
shows throughout the years and listening
to the amazing war stories of him fl ying
his Mustang in combat!
Time Flys Hobbies allowed me to take
the model home to test its performance. I
accepted the offer, and want to thank the
company for its generosity by including
this review of the model in my column.
The aircraft comes completely
assembled and packaged in a nice
carrying/storage case. The four-channel
model includes a 150 mAh LiPo battery,
battery charger/stand, extra propeller,
and instructions. Only four AA batteries
for the charger and a DSM-compatible
four-channel transmitter are required to
fl y the model. The Mustang has some
nice scale details, such as molded-in
panel lines, engine exhaust pipes, and a
clear canopy.
The top of the nose cowling is
removable for access to the radio/battery
compartment and is held in place by
a magnet. The receiver is 2.4 GHz
Spektrum-compatible, and came with
a bind plug attached. I had no trouble
binding the receiver with my DX7
transmitter. After binding, remove the
plug and you are ready to fl y.
The 150 mAh LiPo cell charges in the
nice display-stand charger; the stand is a
nice touch. The battery is placed inside
the cowling compartment in the provided
slot. I like that the battery is concealed
inside the fuselage. After testing the
flight controls for proper direction and
movement, it was time to fly.
In the Air
The GeminiRC P-51 has a scale
outline, so I was interested in seeing
how it performed. I have built several
P-51 Mustangs throughout the years,
and even designed a few of my own. My
experience with the airplane has shown
me that a P-51 model with a scale outline
can be difficult to fly, especially when
slowed down.
For my first flight, I flew the model
over grass and hand launched it. The
aircraft climbed out with authority, with
just a touch of aileron trim needed for
level flight. The model really grooves at
full power!
I did nice point rolls, low passes, and
inverted flight (it flies great inverted).
I then took it up and tried some slow
flights.
I found that I could slow the model
down, but when it stalled, it required
approximately 10 to 20 feet to recover.
I also found out the hard way that the
model would stall out if I pulled back too
hard on the elevator at the bottom of a
loop. I recovered from the stall, but that
got my attention!
The aircraft is capable of nice, large
loops from level flight, but you have to
let it fly through the loop by using little
or no back pressure. The Mustang is easy
to land on grass. Keep a little speed and
let it glide in.
I did not get a chance to test the model
on pavement, but I am sure it will do fine.
I removed the landing gear for a more
realistic appearance in flight.
Overall, the model is fun to fly and
it flies well. It may take a few flights
to get used to it, but an intermediateto-
experienced pilot should have no
problems. The model has a list price of
$79.99. See the GeminiRC website listed
in “Sources” for more information.
2012 Indoor Night at NEAT
This year’s Indoor Night at the NEAT
Fair will be held on Saturday, September
15, at the Downsville school gymnasium
from noon to 10 p.m. We are planning
a big night of flying with some of the
world’s best micro modelers.
We will hold the halftime show from
approximately 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.,
showcasing some of the outstanding
models that will be flown.
The event will be open to the public
for flying, but only micro models
built from kits, scratch-built, or of the
modeler’s own design can fly. They
must also weigh 2 ounces or less and be
capable of flying safely in the small gym.
The purpose of this event is to
showcase indoor models that are built
by some of the many talented modelers
across the country! No ready-to-fly
models will be allowed to fly except for
manufacturer product demos during the
halftime show.
If anyone is interested in flying, please
email me to preregister. The cost is $25
for pilots, with all proceeds donated to
the school. AMA or Park Pilot insurance
is required.
The event is free for spectators, so
please stop by and see some of these
amazing indoor models fly! Contact me,
or see the NEAT Fair website for all the
latest updates.
