MOST SPORT and Scale models are covered with Japanese tissue,
which is known for its ability to shrink. The positive result is a nice,
tight covering without wrinkles. The downside is warped flying
surfaces.
The lighter the underlying structure, the more of a chance there is
for warps. The amount of shrink can be titrated by the method you use
to treat and finish the tissue.
Most tissues shrink after application. Dampen the material with a
mist of water and apply it while it is damp using dope or glue stick as
the adhesive. Gently pull out any wrinkles as you go. This is the
method to use for compound curves.
You get slightly less shrink if you apply it dry using dope and then
shrink it with water when the dope is dry. If you then apply multiple
coats of nitrate dope, it will warp all but extremely strong structures.
This technique can be used on most fuselages.
The shrinkage can be moderated by using a spray of rubbing alcohol
to shrink the tissue instead of water. It can also be limited by usingHank Sperzel’s Ramrod 250 weighs 4 ounces ready to cover. Get
yours ready for the Nats One Design event. Sperzel photo.
Larry Kruse built this Hustler. It has proven to be a great
performer in the Nostalgia Gas class. Kruse photo.
plasticizer (a few drops of castor oil) in the nitrate dope or by using
nitrate marked “nonshrink.”
Using butyrate requires a retarder to decrease the shrinkage. A
commercial retarder such as Randolph’s is required.
• Moderate shrink after application: Mount the tissue on a frame
using a glue stick. Some use a frame cut from cardboard. I have two
wooden frames, each of which will hold a half standard sheet of
Japanese tissue. Shrink the tissue one or more times with water. (I
shrink it once.)
Depending on the model, sometimes I spray a light coat of the
base color on the tissue. I use this for Dime Scale fuselages and
models using 1/16-3/32 stock in the tail surfaces and wings. Finish
should be light and should be sprayed.
• Low shrink after application: After removing the tissue from the
frame, iron it before application. Use it for Indoor Peanuts and No-
Cals. Expect some wrinkles. Use little or no finish.
• No shrink after application: Shrink the tissue over a towel with no
frame, and then iron it flat. Use this for light No-Cals or lightweight
indoor sport models. Expect wrinkles.
As you gain experience, you will develop your own preferences
for treating the tissue.
Japanese tissue is relatively expensive, at approximately $1.50
per sheet. Some of the lightest grades are even more expensive.
This material is characterized by a dull side and a shiny side. You
can see a “grain” when you hold it up to the light. It is popular because
of its light weight and relative strength (for tissue), both wet and dry.
Japanese tissue comes in a number of basic colors, but they all
have a tendency to fade, so many modelers elect to enhance the color
with light paint or chalk. This is the tissue of choice for your nice
Scale or Indoor model.
Japanese tissue is relatively airtight because of the smooth finish on
one side, so you can use it to cover your No-Cal or Bostonian Indoor
model and not have to apply dope to seal the material. The smooth
side should go to the outside of the framework.
If you are building sport models, domestic tissue can serve your
purpose. It is much less expensive than Japanese tissue and comes in a
wide variety of quality and colors. The finish is usually dull on both
sides, and it shows no grain.
Some varieties of domestic tissue have a little wet strength, and
others have none. Some have colors that can be wet without running,
and others run. Some are slightly heavier than Japanese tissue, and
some are much heavier.
Unlike Japanese tissue, most domestic tissue needs a coat or
two of dope or a light spray of Krylon Crystal Clear to seal its
pores. Easy Built Models sells one of the better domestic tissues.
It comes in a wide variety of colors including common
camouflage browns and greens as well as silver. It is colorfast.
Some Hallmark stores have domestic tissue in a wide variety of
colors, and others are limited. Another place to look for domestic
tissue is in party/balloon stores.
I found tissue, at a Party America store, that was colorfast to water,
lightweight, and had a bit of sheen on one side. I used it to cover my
Senator and it did a nice job. It is marketed by Cindus and made in
Thailand. Do a bit of exploring on your own and you should be able to
find some good domestic tissue in your area.
Dan Berry built his Earl Stahl-designed Weight Rule from a BMJR
Model Products kit. The propeller is from the plans; it’s a 15-inch
carved-balsa freewheeler.
The motor is 12 strands of 1/8-inch rubber that are 27 inches long.
Dan aims for 1,130 turns. That is the same motor he used in his
Gollywock. Dan thinks the model could use a bit more rubber.
In spite of the fact that the Weight Rule is 4 years old and has spent
quite a bit of time in the sun, the BMJR-supplied red tissue has kept its
bright color. Dan placed third with the model in Old Time Rubber
Cabin at last year’s Nats.
George White sent some nice photos of his BAT Dime Scale model.
It trimmed out easily, just needing a bit of down-elevator. That got it
flying roughly 60 seconds in dead air. No added balance weight was
needed when using a 28-inch loop of 3/16-inch rubber. The model
weighed just 14 grams empty.
The aluminum treatment on the nose is platinum floral spray.
The rest is white Esaki tissue. George used Tonkin bamboo from
his carefully hoarded stash for the wingtips, just as the original
plans specified.
To bend the bamboo, George ran it over a 20-amp soldering
iron until he got the right curve. There is an article about bending
bamboo on the Pensacola Free Flight Team Web site. After a
max test flight, George gave it another go and it flew out of sight
(OOS)!
Michael Heinrich shared his technique for making wing fillets
using vellum. It’s stiff and reasonably light, and if you laminate
tissue of the same color over the vellum before shaping, it will
have the same texture as the rest of the model.
Add little formers to carry the curve of the fillet at several
stations along the joint. Then cut and fit pieces to span just one
bay at a time, butting each piece to the next.
With a little care, the joint will be almost invisible. It is
important to get the fit perfect and stress free before attaching the
vellum. Do not count on the glue to hold a stressed piece.
According to Michael, the technique works well and is harder to
146 MODEL AVIATION
03sig5.QXD 1/24/08 3:46 PM Page 146describe than to execute.
If you must try one-piece fillets, he
suggests using thin, light balsa—the
punky, soft 1/32 stuff you can’t use for
anything else. Soak it to the consistency
of yesterday’s oatmeal and form it over
dowels to induce a curve.
Robert Spink liked the looks of the
Spinner Sparrow in the December 2006
Flying Models magazine. He modified the
nose by covering it with polished
aluminum, as on the Spirit of St. Louis.
Robert achieved this effect by putting a
pencil eraser in a drill press and gently
burnishing paper-backed aluminum foil
from a cigarette pack.
His carved pilot is giving a thumbs-up
to the mechanic for removing the wheel
chocks. The model is a nice size, with a
wingspan of 26 inches and a weight of
only 26 grams.
The Spinner Sparrow flies
exceptionally well with a 9-inch Peck-
Polymers propeller powered by two loops
of 1/8-inch rubber that are 24 inches long.
Only a bit of downthrust and right thrust
and a 1/32-inch shim under the wing LE
were required to get the model in trim.
By keeping the power low, the model
will make a great flier for the park.
Adding a third loop of 1/8-inch rubber
might take it OOS! Plans for the Spinner
Sparrow and several other delightful
Chuck Wenlock designs are available
from Flying Models.
You might remember the finely crafted
Hungerford spoked wheels that were
once available for Peanut and Dime
Scale-size models. Tom Hallman
discovered a new source—NS Wheels—
and is quite pleased with the product.
The Hustler Nostalgia Gas design has
proven to be popular. Mike Fedor had a
great-flying version at last year’s Nats.
That was all it took to convince Larry
Kruse to put one on the building board.
Larry’s Hustler, powered by an O.S.
Max III .15, has Micafilm covering on
the wings and stabilizer. He flew the
model to a win in A Nostalgia at the fall
Magnificent Mountain Men contest in
Denver, Colorado. Plans are available
from the National Free Flight Society.
Ray Harlan has a new Web site for his
Indoor Model Specialties business. He
has been flying Indoor models for more
than 50 years and has been providing
some of the finest tools and unique
supplies since 1974.
Among many other supplies, Ray has
kits for Science Olympiad and balloonlaunch
models. After checking out his
products on the site, take a look at the
building-tips section.
SAM 27 in California repeated as winner of
the Jimmie Allen postal contest in 2007. If
your group would like to compete in thisyear’s postal, send an SASE to Jerry Rocha.
Hank Sperzel will have his Ramrod 250
ready for the One Design event at this year’s
Nats. Campbell’s Custom Kits has a kit of the
Model Airplane News plans version. The
Berkeley kit plans are also legal for the event.
The Ramrod must use a Nostalgia-legal
engine. Short kits are available from Klarich
Custom Kits. MA
Sources:
Campbell’s Custom Kits
(765) 683-1749
www.campbellscustomkits.com/
Flying Models
www.flying-models.com
Indoor Model Specialties
(508) 358-4013
www.indoorspecialties.com
Jerry Rocha
3583 Ruston Ln.
Napa CA 94558
Klarich Custom Kits
(916) 635-4588
www.klarichkits.com
National Free Flight Society
www.freeflight.org/index.htm
NS Wheels
2115A Route 31
Glen Gardner NJ 08826
www.nswheels.com/products.htm
Pensacola Free Flight Team
www.pensacolafreeflight.org/
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/03
Page Numbers: 145,146,147
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/03
Page Numbers: 145,146,147
MOST SPORT and Scale models are covered with Japanese tissue,
which is known for its ability to shrink. The positive result is a nice,
tight covering without wrinkles. The downside is warped flying
surfaces.
The lighter the underlying structure, the more of a chance there is
for warps. The amount of shrink can be titrated by the method you use
to treat and finish the tissue.
Most tissues shrink after application. Dampen the material with a
mist of water and apply it while it is damp using dope or glue stick as
the adhesive. Gently pull out any wrinkles as you go. This is the
method to use for compound curves.
You get slightly less shrink if you apply it dry using dope and then
shrink it with water when the dope is dry. If you then apply multiple
coats of nitrate dope, it will warp all but extremely strong structures.
This technique can be used on most fuselages.
The shrinkage can be moderated by using a spray of rubbing alcohol
to shrink the tissue instead of water. It can also be limited by usingHank Sperzel’s Ramrod 250 weighs 4 ounces ready to cover. Get
yours ready for the Nats One Design event. Sperzel photo.
Larry Kruse built this Hustler. It has proven to be a great
performer in the Nostalgia Gas class. Kruse photo.
plasticizer (a few drops of castor oil) in the nitrate dope or by using
nitrate marked “nonshrink.”
Using butyrate requires a retarder to decrease the shrinkage. A
commercial retarder such as Randolph’s is required.
• Moderate shrink after application: Mount the tissue on a frame
using a glue stick. Some use a frame cut from cardboard. I have two
wooden frames, each of which will hold a half standard sheet of
Japanese tissue. Shrink the tissue one or more times with water. (I
shrink it once.)
Depending on the model, sometimes I spray a light coat of the
base color on the tissue. I use this for Dime Scale fuselages and
models using 1/16-3/32 stock in the tail surfaces and wings. Finish
should be light and should be sprayed.
• Low shrink after application: After removing the tissue from the
frame, iron it before application. Use it for Indoor Peanuts and No-
Cals. Expect some wrinkles. Use little or no finish.
• No shrink after application: Shrink the tissue over a towel with no
frame, and then iron it flat. Use this for light No-Cals or lightweight
indoor sport models. Expect wrinkles.
As you gain experience, you will develop your own preferences
for treating the tissue.
Japanese tissue is relatively expensive, at approximately $1.50
per sheet. Some of the lightest grades are even more expensive.
This material is characterized by a dull side and a shiny side. You
can see a “grain” when you hold it up to the light. It is popular because
of its light weight and relative strength (for tissue), both wet and dry.
Japanese tissue comes in a number of basic colors, but they all
have a tendency to fade, so many modelers elect to enhance the color
with light paint or chalk. This is the tissue of choice for your nice
Scale or Indoor model.
Japanese tissue is relatively airtight because of the smooth finish on
one side, so you can use it to cover your No-Cal or Bostonian Indoor
model and not have to apply dope to seal the material. The smooth
side should go to the outside of the framework.
If you are building sport models, domestic tissue can serve your
purpose. It is much less expensive than Japanese tissue and comes in a
wide variety of quality and colors. The finish is usually dull on both
sides, and it shows no grain.
Some varieties of domestic tissue have a little wet strength, and
others have none. Some have colors that can be wet without running,
and others run. Some are slightly heavier than Japanese tissue, and
some are much heavier.
Unlike Japanese tissue, most domestic tissue needs a coat or
two of dope or a light spray of Krylon Crystal Clear to seal its
pores. Easy Built Models sells one of the better domestic tissues.
It comes in a wide variety of colors including common
camouflage browns and greens as well as silver. It is colorfast.
Some Hallmark stores have domestic tissue in a wide variety of
colors, and others are limited. Another place to look for domestic
tissue is in party/balloon stores.
I found tissue, at a Party America store, that was colorfast to water,
lightweight, and had a bit of sheen on one side. I used it to cover my
Senator and it did a nice job. It is marketed by Cindus and made in
Thailand. Do a bit of exploring on your own and you should be able to
find some good domestic tissue in your area.
Dan Berry built his Earl Stahl-designed Weight Rule from a BMJR
Model Products kit. The propeller is from the plans; it’s a 15-inch
carved-balsa freewheeler.
The motor is 12 strands of 1/8-inch rubber that are 27 inches long.
Dan aims for 1,130 turns. That is the same motor he used in his
Gollywock. Dan thinks the model could use a bit more rubber.
In spite of the fact that the Weight Rule is 4 years old and has spent
quite a bit of time in the sun, the BMJR-supplied red tissue has kept its
bright color. Dan placed third with the model in Old Time Rubber
Cabin at last year’s Nats.
George White sent some nice photos of his BAT Dime Scale model.
It trimmed out easily, just needing a bit of down-elevator. That got it
flying roughly 60 seconds in dead air. No added balance weight was
needed when using a 28-inch loop of 3/16-inch rubber. The model
weighed just 14 grams empty.
The aluminum treatment on the nose is platinum floral spray.
The rest is white Esaki tissue. George used Tonkin bamboo from
his carefully hoarded stash for the wingtips, just as the original
plans specified.
To bend the bamboo, George ran it over a 20-amp soldering
iron until he got the right curve. There is an article about bending
bamboo on the Pensacola Free Flight Team Web site. After a
max test flight, George gave it another go and it flew out of sight
(OOS)!
Michael Heinrich shared his technique for making wing fillets
using vellum. It’s stiff and reasonably light, and if you laminate
tissue of the same color over the vellum before shaping, it will
have the same texture as the rest of the model.
Add little formers to carry the curve of the fillet at several
stations along the joint. Then cut and fit pieces to span just one
bay at a time, butting each piece to the next.
With a little care, the joint will be almost invisible. It is
important to get the fit perfect and stress free before attaching the
vellum. Do not count on the glue to hold a stressed piece.
According to Michael, the technique works well and is harder to
146 MODEL AVIATION
03sig5.QXD 1/24/08 3:46 PM Page 146describe than to execute.
If you must try one-piece fillets, he
suggests using thin, light balsa—the
punky, soft 1/32 stuff you can’t use for
anything else. Soak it to the consistency
of yesterday’s oatmeal and form it over
dowels to induce a curve.
Robert Spink liked the looks of the
Spinner Sparrow in the December 2006
Flying Models magazine. He modified the
nose by covering it with polished
aluminum, as on the Spirit of St. Louis.
Robert achieved this effect by putting a
pencil eraser in a drill press and gently
burnishing paper-backed aluminum foil
from a cigarette pack.
His carved pilot is giving a thumbs-up
to the mechanic for removing the wheel
chocks. The model is a nice size, with a
wingspan of 26 inches and a weight of
only 26 grams.
The Spinner Sparrow flies
exceptionally well with a 9-inch Peck-
Polymers propeller powered by two loops
of 1/8-inch rubber that are 24 inches long.
Only a bit of downthrust and right thrust
and a 1/32-inch shim under the wing LE
were required to get the model in trim.
By keeping the power low, the model
will make a great flier for the park.
Adding a third loop of 1/8-inch rubber
might take it OOS! Plans for the Spinner
Sparrow and several other delightful
Chuck Wenlock designs are available
from Flying Models.
You might remember the finely crafted
Hungerford spoked wheels that were
once available for Peanut and Dime
Scale-size models. Tom Hallman
discovered a new source—NS Wheels—
and is quite pleased with the product.
The Hustler Nostalgia Gas design has
proven to be popular. Mike Fedor had a
great-flying version at last year’s Nats.
That was all it took to convince Larry
Kruse to put one on the building board.
Larry’s Hustler, powered by an O.S.
Max III .15, has Micafilm covering on
the wings and stabilizer. He flew the
model to a win in A Nostalgia at the fall
Magnificent Mountain Men contest in
Denver, Colorado. Plans are available
from the National Free Flight Society.
Ray Harlan has a new Web site for his
Indoor Model Specialties business. He
has been flying Indoor models for more
than 50 years and has been providing
some of the finest tools and unique
supplies since 1974.
Among many other supplies, Ray has
kits for Science Olympiad and balloonlaunch
models. After checking out his
products on the site, take a look at the
building-tips section.
SAM 27 in California repeated as winner of
the Jimmie Allen postal contest in 2007. If
your group would like to compete in thisyear’s postal, send an SASE to Jerry Rocha.
Hank Sperzel will have his Ramrod 250
ready for the One Design event at this year’s
Nats. Campbell’s Custom Kits has a kit of the
Model Airplane News plans version. The
Berkeley kit plans are also legal for the event.
The Ramrod must use a Nostalgia-legal
engine. Short kits are available from Klarich
Custom Kits. MA
Sources:
Campbell’s Custom Kits
(765) 683-1749
www.campbellscustomkits.com/
Flying Models
www.flying-models.com
Indoor Model Specialties
(508) 358-4013
www.indoorspecialties.com
Jerry Rocha
3583 Ruston Ln.
Napa CA 94558
Klarich Custom Kits
(916) 635-4588
www.klarichkits.com
National Free Flight Society
www.freeflight.org/index.htm
NS Wheels
2115A Route 31
Glen Gardner NJ 08826
www.nswheels.com/products.htm
Pensacola Free Flight Team
www.pensacolafreeflight.org/
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/03
Page Numbers: 145,146,147
MOST SPORT and Scale models are covered with Japanese tissue,
which is known for its ability to shrink. The positive result is a nice,
tight covering without wrinkles. The downside is warped flying
surfaces.
The lighter the underlying structure, the more of a chance there is
for warps. The amount of shrink can be titrated by the method you use
to treat and finish the tissue.
Most tissues shrink after application. Dampen the material with a
mist of water and apply it while it is damp using dope or glue stick as
the adhesive. Gently pull out any wrinkles as you go. This is the
method to use for compound curves.
You get slightly less shrink if you apply it dry using dope and then
shrink it with water when the dope is dry. If you then apply multiple
coats of nitrate dope, it will warp all but extremely strong structures.
This technique can be used on most fuselages.
The shrinkage can be moderated by using a spray of rubbing alcohol
to shrink the tissue instead of water. It can also be limited by usingHank Sperzel’s Ramrod 250 weighs 4 ounces ready to cover. Get
yours ready for the Nats One Design event. Sperzel photo.
Larry Kruse built this Hustler. It has proven to be a great
performer in the Nostalgia Gas class. Kruse photo.
plasticizer (a few drops of castor oil) in the nitrate dope or by using
nitrate marked “nonshrink.”
Using butyrate requires a retarder to decrease the shrinkage. A
commercial retarder such as Randolph’s is required.
• Moderate shrink after application: Mount the tissue on a frame
using a glue stick. Some use a frame cut from cardboard. I have two
wooden frames, each of which will hold a half standard sheet of
Japanese tissue. Shrink the tissue one or more times with water. (I
shrink it once.)
Depending on the model, sometimes I spray a light coat of the
base color on the tissue. I use this for Dime Scale fuselages and
models using 1/16-3/32 stock in the tail surfaces and wings. Finish
should be light and should be sprayed.
• Low shrink after application: After removing the tissue from the
frame, iron it before application. Use it for Indoor Peanuts and No-
Cals. Expect some wrinkles. Use little or no finish.
• No shrink after application: Shrink the tissue over a towel with no
frame, and then iron it flat. Use this for light No-Cals or lightweight
indoor sport models. Expect wrinkles.
As you gain experience, you will develop your own preferences
for treating the tissue.
Japanese tissue is relatively expensive, at approximately $1.50
per sheet. Some of the lightest grades are even more expensive.
This material is characterized by a dull side and a shiny side. You
can see a “grain” when you hold it up to the light. It is popular because
of its light weight and relative strength (for tissue), both wet and dry.
Japanese tissue comes in a number of basic colors, but they all
have a tendency to fade, so many modelers elect to enhance the color
with light paint or chalk. This is the tissue of choice for your nice
Scale or Indoor model.
Japanese tissue is relatively airtight because of the smooth finish on
one side, so you can use it to cover your No-Cal or Bostonian Indoor
model and not have to apply dope to seal the material. The smooth
side should go to the outside of the framework.
If you are building sport models, domestic tissue can serve your
purpose. It is much less expensive than Japanese tissue and comes in a
wide variety of quality and colors. The finish is usually dull on both
sides, and it shows no grain.
Some varieties of domestic tissue have a little wet strength, and
others have none. Some have colors that can be wet without running,
and others run. Some are slightly heavier than Japanese tissue, and
some are much heavier.
Unlike Japanese tissue, most domestic tissue needs a coat or
two of dope or a light spray of Krylon Crystal Clear to seal its
pores. Easy Built Models sells one of the better domestic tissues.
It comes in a wide variety of colors including common
camouflage browns and greens as well as silver. It is colorfast.
Some Hallmark stores have domestic tissue in a wide variety of
colors, and others are limited. Another place to look for domestic
tissue is in party/balloon stores.
I found tissue, at a Party America store, that was colorfast to water,
lightweight, and had a bit of sheen on one side. I used it to cover my
Senator and it did a nice job. It is marketed by Cindus and made in
Thailand. Do a bit of exploring on your own and you should be able to
find some good domestic tissue in your area.
Dan Berry built his Earl Stahl-designed Weight Rule from a BMJR
Model Products kit. The propeller is from the plans; it’s a 15-inch
carved-balsa freewheeler.
The motor is 12 strands of 1/8-inch rubber that are 27 inches long.
Dan aims for 1,130 turns. That is the same motor he used in his
Gollywock. Dan thinks the model could use a bit more rubber.
In spite of the fact that the Weight Rule is 4 years old and has spent
quite a bit of time in the sun, the BMJR-supplied red tissue has kept its
bright color. Dan placed third with the model in Old Time Rubber
Cabin at last year’s Nats.
George White sent some nice photos of his BAT Dime Scale model.
It trimmed out easily, just needing a bit of down-elevator. That got it
flying roughly 60 seconds in dead air. No added balance weight was
needed when using a 28-inch loop of 3/16-inch rubber. The model
weighed just 14 grams empty.
The aluminum treatment on the nose is platinum floral spray.
The rest is white Esaki tissue. George used Tonkin bamboo from
his carefully hoarded stash for the wingtips, just as the original
plans specified.
To bend the bamboo, George ran it over a 20-amp soldering
iron until he got the right curve. There is an article about bending
bamboo on the Pensacola Free Flight Team Web site. After a
max test flight, George gave it another go and it flew out of sight
(OOS)!
Michael Heinrich shared his technique for making wing fillets
using vellum. It’s stiff and reasonably light, and if you laminate
tissue of the same color over the vellum before shaping, it will
have the same texture as the rest of the model.
Add little formers to carry the curve of the fillet at several
stations along the joint. Then cut and fit pieces to span just one
bay at a time, butting each piece to the next.
With a little care, the joint will be almost invisible. It is
important to get the fit perfect and stress free before attaching the
vellum. Do not count on the glue to hold a stressed piece.
According to Michael, the technique works well and is harder to
146 MODEL AVIATION
03sig5.QXD 1/24/08 3:46 PM Page 146describe than to execute.
If you must try one-piece fillets, he
suggests using thin, light balsa—the
punky, soft 1/32 stuff you can’t use for
anything else. Soak it to the consistency
of yesterday’s oatmeal and form it over
dowels to induce a curve.
Robert Spink liked the looks of the
Spinner Sparrow in the December 2006
Flying Models magazine. He modified the
nose by covering it with polished
aluminum, as on the Spirit of St. Louis.
Robert achieved this effect by putting a
pencil eraser in a drill press and gently
burnishing paper-backed aluminum foil
from a cigarette pack.
His carved pilot is giving a thumbs-up
to the mechanic for removing the wheel
chocks. The model is a nice size, with a
wingspan of 26 inches and a weight of
only 26 grams.
The Spinner Sparrow flies
exceptionally well with a 9-inch Peck-
Polymers propeller powered by two loops
of 1/8-inch rubber that are 24 inches long.
Only a bit of downthrust and right thrust
and a 1/32-inch shim under the wing LE
were required to get the model in trim.
By keeping the power low, the model
will make a great flier for the park.
Adding a third loop of 1/8-inch rubber
might take it OOS! Plans for the Spinner
Sparrow and several other delightful
Chuck Wenlock designs are available
from Flying Models.
You might remember the finely crafted
Hungerford spoked wheels that were
once available for Peanut and Dime
Scale-size models. Tom Hallman
discovered a new source—NS Wheels—
and is quite pleased with the product.
The Hustler Nostalgia Gas design has
proven to be popular. Mike Fedor had a
great-flying version at last year’s Nats.
That was all it took to convince Larry
Kruse to put one on the building board.
Larry’s Hustler, powered by an O.S.
Max III .15, has Micafilm covering on
the wings and stabilizer. He flew the
model to a win in A Nostalgia at the fall
Magnificent Mountain Men contest in
Denver, Colorado. Plans are available
from the National Free Flight Society.
Ray Harlan has a new Web site for his
Indoor Model Specialties business. He
has been flying Indoor models for more
than 50 years and has been providing
some of the finest tools and unique
supplies since 1974.
Among many other supplies, Ray has
kits for Science Olympiad and balloonlaunch
models. After checking out his
products on the site, take a look at the
building-tips section.
SAM 27 in California repeated as winner of
the Jimmie Allen postal contest in 2007. If
your group would like to compete in thisyear’s postal, send an SASE to Jerry Rocha.
Hank Sperzel will have his Ramrod 250
ready for the One Design event at this year’s
Nats. Campbell’s Custom Kits has a kit of the
Model Airplane News plans version. The
Berkeley kit plans are also legal for the event.
The Ramrod must use a Nostalgia-legal
engine. Short kits are available from Klarich
Custom Kits. MA
Sources:
Campbell’s Custom Kits
(765) 683-1749
www.campbellscustomkits.com/
Flying Models
www.flying-models.com
Indoor Model Specialties
(508) 358-4013
www.indoorspecialties.com
Jerry Rocha
3583 Ruston Ln.
Napa CA 94558
Klarich Custom Kits
(916) 635-4588
www.klarichkits.com
National Free Flight Society
www.freeflight.org/index.htm
NS Wheels
2115A Route 31
Glen Gardner NJ 08826
www.nswheels.com/products.htm
Pensacola Free Flight Team
www.pensacolafreeflight.org/