150 MODEL AVIATION
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache
[[email protected]]
Free Flight Sport Gene Smith
Also included in this column:
• Angled plates for nose-block
drilling
• Golden Age Cessna Airmaster
• Rearwin Speedster plans
• Tiny clamps
• Silver Esaki tissue
• Ramrod 250 Gas One Design
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache looks ready to rumble. It’s a great
first World War II combat model.
Using an angled drill plate allows you to accurately drill nose
blocks for prop-shaft bearings. George White photo.
Bob Schlosberg’s He 100D is beautiful in its imaginary-squadron
colors. Wheels and wheel covers are removable.
Compare the size of the C-34’s new, larger stabilizer to the
original. The model flies much better with the large version.
Richard Adams photo.
BILL SCHMIDT’S 19-inch-span Apache
was enlarged slightly from the 18-inch
Comet plans. Four strands of 1/8-inch rubber
turn a 7-inch Peck-Polymers propeller.
This is a great set of plans. The structure
is simple box-and-former, and it is relatively
easy to build a light model.
Bill used Peck-Polymers green tissue and
a clear sealer. The landing gear and wheelwell
covers are removable. The model is a
super flier.
I remember a particularly windy day in
Kansas (aren’t they all windy?) when this
model took home all the marbles in World
War II combat. The plans—number
22031—are available for $4 from the AMA
Plans Service.
I have been using angled plates and my drill
press to drill nose blocks for prop-shaft
bearings. The plates I use were originally
made to shim motor mounts on RC models.
They came in a set of three, one each of 1°,
2°, and 3°.
With a couple sets I have been able to
drill any combination of downthrust and
right thrust I need. I don’t think they are
available anymore, but you can easily make
your own angled drill plates from a 2-inch
square of 1/8 or 1/4 plywood.
George White made his plates using Jim
O’Reilly’s formula. For 2° of right thrust,
George used a 1/16 shim. To determine the
distance of the shim from the edge of the
drill plate, he made the following
calculation: X = (1/16)/Sin (2) = 1.79
inches. For 4° of downthrust, George
placed a 1/8 shim 1.79 inches from the edge
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:41 AM Page 150
May 2008 151
Mike Welshans’ Rearwin awaits warmer weather for flight-testing.
Welshans photo.
You can fabricate these handy mini clamps from scrap hardwood
and bamboo skewers.
of the drill plate. Use a 3/32 shim for 3°.
He placed the angled plate on the bed of
the Micro-Mark drill press and the
laminated nose block on the angled plate,
ready for drilling. You can make several
angled plates to stack together for
downthrust and right thrust or you can
combine the down and right in one plate, as
shown.
You just knew that junior-high school
trigonometry would come in handy
someday.
This past year the Heinkel He 100D was
pronounced legal for Flying Aces Club
(FAC) World War II mass-launch
competitions. Don Srull designed a nice 23-
inch-span model. It is a great flier.
It was the first World War II low-wing
model I built when I got back into this
aspect of the hobby almost 20 years ago.
The plans were published in Model Airplane
News in 1977, and the airplane was kitted by
Flyline Models.
Among the photos, you will see Bob
Schlosberg’s slick rendition of the He
100D. Most of the models you see of this
fighter are finished in a solid dark green
Order foam wings from
the AMA Plans Service.
(765) 287-1256, extension 507
on top and gray on the bottom. Since Bob
flies over fields of clover (sounds almost
poetic), he figured that a somewhat lighter
paint scheme would be prudent. The finish
doesn’t match any known operational
airplanes, but it looks authentic for the era.
I flew a Fiat G.55 with a sand-andspinach
camouflage scheme at Geneseo,
New York, one year. Not only did those
colors blend in with the ground and grass,
but the white markings almost matched the
small white flowers that were mixed in with
the grass! The model was nearly invisible
when it landed.
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:49 AM Page 151
152 MODEL AVIATION
Bob built his He 100D from the nolonger-
produced Flyline kit. You might be
able to pick one up on eBay for a princely
sum. A better option would be to purchase a
set of plans from the AMA Plans Service; it
is number 13328 and is available for only $4.
Richard Adams wanted to build a model
for the Golden Age Civil event at Muncie,
Indiana, this past year. He found a Golden
Age Reproductions kit of the Cessna C-34,
so he ordered it to save building time.
Richard said that the kit was extremely
nice, with light wood and good tissue.
The plans were a Megow design for a
30-inch-wingspan version of the C-34.
Richard built the kit to the plans except that
he doubled the number of wing ribs and
made them from 1/32 sheet instead of 1/16.
He revised the airfoil to a standard 12%
Clark Y and added a 1/16 square spar
between the LE and the main spar. Richard
set wing dihedral as shown on the plans and
built the horizontal stabilizer to the size
shown on the plans.
On its first test flights the Cessna
exhibited poor stability and would roll off
on one wing or the other and go into a
diving turn. Richard changed the tail
incidence and nose weight, but the model
never demonstrated any degree of stability.
He posted the problem on the Free
Flight News Group to see what kind of
advice he could get. Most responses
suggested adding more dihedral to the wing
and increasing the horizontal tail area.
Not having time to make those changes
before going to Muncie, Rich tried a
temporary fix that John Majane suggested.
He added tabs to the TE of each wingtip
and bent them up at a 45° angle.
Rich tested the model at Muncie. It flew
well under power, but when the power ran
down, the model flipped nose-up into a
snap stall and went nose down, vertical.
Luckily the ground was there to stop it.
Those who were around commented—okay,
joked—that they had never seen anything
like it. Even Chris Starleaf joked that it was
not against the FAC rules to add dihedral on
models.
Rather than give up, Rich tried again but
only managed to rearrange the wing-tofuselage
joint in such a way that the model
was unflyable (read “destroyed”).
When he returned home, Rich sawed the
wing in half, cleaned up the joints, and
added 3° of dihedral to each panel. He built
a new horizontal tail, increasing the area by
at least 20%. After guessing at the tail
incidence and balancing the Cessna at the
main spar, he went out for some test glides.
The model was perfect right out of his
hands!
Rich wound in 500 turns and gave the
model a light toss. It climbed out to
approximately 75 feet; made a long, lazy
circle; and finally ran out of power, settling
into a long, flat glide. It was a different
airplane altogether!
Rich wanted to make sure I reported the
success to all who provided insight and
suggestions and thank them for a new
lesson learned. You’re never too old to
learn in this hobby.
He manufactures and sells an excellent
winder for FAC-size rubber-powered
models. The price is roughly $50. Now that
you know how to get it to fly, build your
own Cessna Airmaster from the Golden
Age Reproductions kit, available from the
Penn Valley Hobby Center.
Rich’s trials reminded me of an
experience I had years ago with a Golden
Age P-35 kit. After deciding to build it, I
recalled a short note by Gordon Roberts in
an issue of the Flying Aces newsletter; he
wrote that the Golden Age P-35 needed
additional stabilizer area to fly well.
There was a full-size pattern of the
enlarged stabilizer in the newsletter. I used
it on my model and had success flying the
model.
The larger stabilizer will not fit the
fuselage properly. You can either move the
former in front of the stabilizer forward or
extend the fuselage beneath the stabilizer. I
prefer the latter. It won’t shorten the tail
moment and keeps the fuselage from
looking too short.
Before building a scale model from a kit
or plans, calculate the wing and stabilizer
areas. The area of the wing and stabilizer
“inside the fuselage” are counted in the
calculation. These models will usually fly
best with a stabilizer that is 22%-25% of
the wing area.
222 Nexus Experience
This model started as a Nexus 30
more than five years ago. It was my first
helicopter, and I learned a lot from it.
At the local hobby shop I saw a
Century Hawk fitted into a 30-size Bell
222 fuselage and fell in love with it. So
after a little bit of homework I placed an
order. Painting it was another learning
experience. A friend of mine made the
Canadian Air Force water-slide decals,
and the navigation lights are by Curtek.
The photo was taken on a trip to the
field one day when my friend Tom was
practicing his photography, so it was
only natural to get some great photos. I
have more photos and video on my
RunRyder gallery. MA
—Shawn Ireland
[email protected]
E-mail your high-resolution
“Viewfinder” photo to michaelr@model
aircraft.org with a short note describing
the airplane or helicopter story.
Viewfinder
Continued on page 155
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:53 AM Page 152
May 2008 155
Celebrating30Years!
- SECURE SHOPPING WITH OUR ONLINE CATALOG -
www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com
[email protected]
Phone (479) 359-2429 Fax (479) 359-2259
Hours: Monday - Friday 9 to 5 CST
15715 Ashmore Dr., Garfield, Arkansas 72732
LARGEST COLLECTION OF
EPOXY GLASS COWLS &
WHEEL PANTS IN THE WORLD!
Download a Free Catalog from the World's
Largest Manufacturer of Model Airplane
Cowls, Wheelpants & Accessories.
Need Lites? 21 Choices!
NEED MORE INFO?
See your hobby retailer or send a #10 S.A.S.E. to
229 E. ROLLINS RD., ROUND LAKE BEACH, IL 60073 USA
(847) 740-8726 FAX: (847) 740-8727
WWW.RAMRCandRAMTrack.com
$34.95 A - RAM 01 Flashing Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 B - RAM 02 Strobe, simulated, adj.
$39.95 C - RAM 03 Landing lights, 4.8V (2)
$24.95 B - RAM 04 Rotating Beacon, adj.
$34.95 D - RAM 06 Sky Lights (18)
$29.95 A - RAM 14 Big Nav. (3) to 168”
$19.95 A - RAM 15 Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 C - RAM 16 Econo Landing Lights (2)
$29.95 C - RAM 186 Gun Flash (4), adj.
INCANDESCENT
B
A
B
A B
C
C
A
$34.95 B - RAM 23 Single Strobe, adj.
$49.95 B - RAM 42 Dual Strobe, adj.
XENON
$44.95 A - RAM 121 Flashing Nav. (3) to 94”
$29.95 B - RAM 122 Strobe, simulated, adj.
$29.95 C - RAM 123 Landing Lites (2)
$39.95 A - RAM 124 Big Nav. (3) to 168”
$34.95 A - RAM 125 Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 A - RAM 132 Park Flyer Nav (3) to 48” to 12V
$19.95 C - RAM 161 ARF Nav. wireless (3) 4.5V
$29.95 A - RAM 174 Micro Heli, Nav. (3) LG (2) to 12V
$29.95 A - RAM 175 Heli, Nav. (3) LG (2) to 12V
$24.95 E - RAM 179 3 D Lites (18), 3 Colors
ULTRA BRITE LEDs
• Assembled in USA
since 1976
• Fits any R/C Plane or Heli
• 9 Volt, unless noted
Some of the older plans have been
copied so many times that they have lost
their accuracy. Use a straightedge to be
sure that the wing LE is straight, measure
both wings to be sure they are equal in
length, and compare the wing-chord size
to the fuselage side view to be sure that
the wing is not too wide or too narrow to
fit properly in its slot in the fuselage.
The Rearwin Speedster’s sleek lines
have appealed to modelers for
generations, and Mike Welshans is no
exception. He has built several models of
this airplane through the years, including
a Jumbo version.
Mike drew an excellent set of plans
for a smaller model of the Rearwin
Speedster. They were included in the
contestants’ packets at last year’s
Outdoor Champs in Muncie.
The model spans 24 inches. Mike’s
prototype weighs 34 grams without the
motor. He uses a 12-gram motor to drive
an 8-inch white nylon propeller from Lee
Campbell at Campbell’s Custom Kits.
The drive hardware, located just behind
the propeller and spinner, is a P-30
propeller driver. The driver is also
available from Campbell’s Custom Kits.
After balancing, Mike painted the
propeller with light-brown Krylon. He
painted the tips with a cream Krylon. The
Fagan propeller logos were generated on
a computer. After applying the logos,
Mike coated the propeller with clear
gloss Krylon. He used a gold paint
marker on the LE at the tips to simulate
the metal.
Because participation in the Fairchild
24 event was down a bit at the FAC
Outdoor Champs, it was decided to
replace the Fairchild with a Rearwin
Speedster event at the Outdoor Champs
in Muncie this fall. The event will be
flown according to Golden Age rules:
three two-minute maxes with a flyoff for
ties. The only deviations allowed from
the plans are nose-block details, motorpeg
placement, and stabilizer mounting.
The Rearwin will not replace the
Fairchild event at the 30th FAC Nats in
Geneseo this July.
If you would like to build the
Rearwin, $5 will get you a set of plans, a
three-view, and a documentation sheet
from FAC GHQ.
George White was a bit skeptical about
whether or not the mini clamps that are
shown would be useful, but it didn’t take
long before he found himself using them
a lot.
Doug Petty, a retired cabinetmaker,
made these clamps from exotic woods.
They are not for sale, but you can make
your own using any hardwood for the
heads and bamboo skewers for the shafts.
The clamping power comes from dental
bands.
Shorty’s Basement now has silver Esaki
tissue. The introductory price is $2.75 per
sheet plus shipping.
Don’t forget to build your Ramrod 250 for
the One Design Gas event at this year’s
Nats. Check out Campbell’s Custom Kits
for plans and/or a short kit. MA
Sources:
AMA Plans Service
www.modelaircraft.org/plans.aspx
(800) 435-9262, extension 507
Campbell’s Custom Kits
(765) 683-1749
www.campbellscustomkits.com/
FAC GHQ
3301 Cindy Ln.
Erie PA 16506
Penn Valley Hobby Center
(215) 855-1268, (215) 368-0770
www.pennvalleyhobbycenter.com/
Rich Adams
1446 Cat Mountain Tr.
Keller TX
[email protected]
Shorty’s Basement
(740) 225-8671
www.shortysbasement.com/index.php
Visit the AMA Education Committee Web site at
www.modelaircraft.org/education.aspx
Free Flight Sport
Continued from page 152
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:56 AM Page 155
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/05
Page Numbers: 150,151,152,155
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/05
Page Numbers: 150,151,152,155
150 MODEL AVIATION
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache
[[email protected]]
Free Flight Sport Gene Smith
Also included in this column:
• Angled plates for nose-block
drilling
• Golden Age Cessna Airmaster
• Rearwin Speedster plans
• Tiny clamps
• Silver Esaki tissue
• Ramrod 250 Gas One Design
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache looks ready to rumble. It’s a great
first World War II combat model.
Using an angled drill plate allows you to accurately drill nose
blocks for prop-shaft bearings. George White photo.
Bob Schlosberg’s He 100D is beautiful in its imaginary-squadron
colors. Wheels and wheel covers are removable.
Compare the size of the C-34’s new, larger stabilizer to the
original. The model flies much better with the large version.
Richard Adams photo.
BILL SCHMIDT’S 19-inch-span Apache
was enlarged slightly from the 18-inch
Comet plans. Four strands of 1/8-inch rubber
turn a 7-inch Peck-Polymers propeller.
This is a great set of plans. The structure
is simple box-and-former, and it is relatively
easy to build a light model.
Bill used Peck-Polymers green tissue and
a clear sealer. The landing gear and wheelwell
covers are removable. The model is a
super flier.
I remember a particularly windy day in
Kansas (aren’t they all windy?) when this
model took home all the marbles in World
War II combat. The plans—number
22031—are available for $4 from the AMA
Plans Service.
I have been using angled plates and my drill
press to drill nose blocks for prop-shaft
bearings. The plates I use were originally
made to shim motor mounts on RC models.
They came in a set of three, one each of 1°,
2°, and 3°.
With a couple sets I have been able to
drill any combination of downthrust and
right thrust I need. I don’t think they are
available anymore, but you can easily make
your own angled drill plates from a 2-inch
square of 1/8 or 1/4 plywood.
George White made his plates using Jim
O’Reilly’s formula. For 2° of right thrust,
George used a 1/16 shim. To determine the
distance of the shim from the edge of the
drill plate, he made the following
calculation: X = (1/16)/Sin (2) = 1.79
inches. For 4° of downthrust, George
placed a 1/8 shim 1.79 inches from the edge
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:41 AM Page 150
May 2008 151
Mike Welshans’ Rearwin awaits warmer weather for flight-testing.
Welshans photo.
You can fabricate these handy mini clamps from scrap hardwood
and bamboo skewers.
of the drill plate. Use a 3/32 shim for 3°.
He placed the angled plate on the bed of
the Micro-Mark drill press and the
laminated nose block on the angled plate,
ready for drilling. You can make several
angled plates to stack together for
downthrust and right thrust or you can
combine the down and right in one plate, as
shown.
You just knew that junior-high school
trigonometry would come in handy
someday.
This past year the Heinkel He 100D was
pronounced legal for Flying Aces Club
(FAC) World War II mass-launch
competitions. Don Srull designed a nice 23-
inch-span model. It is a great flier.
It was the first World War II low-wing
model I built when I got back into this
aspect of the hobby almost 20 years ago.
The plans were published in Model Airplane
News in 1977, and the airplane was kitted by
Flyline Models.
Among the photos, you will see Bob
Schlosberg’s slick rendition of the He
100D. Most of the models you see of this
fighter are finished in a solid dark green
Order foam wings from
the AMA Plans Service.
(765) 287-1256, extension 507
on top and gray on the bottom. Since Bob
flies over fields of clover (sounds almost
poetic), he figured that a somewhat lighter
paint scheme would be prudent. The finish
doesn’t match any known operational
airplanes, but it looks authentic for the era.
I flew a Fiat G.55 with a sand-andspinach
camouflage scheme at Geneseo,
New York, one year. Not only did those
colors blend in with the ground and grass,
but the white markings almost matched the
small white flowers that were mixed in with
the grass! The model was nearly invisible
when it landed.
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:49 AM Page 151
152 MODEL AVIATION
Bob built his He 100D from the nolonger-
produced Flyline kit. You might be
able to pick one up on eBay for a princely
sum. A better option would be to purchase a
set of plans from the AMA Plans Service; it
is number 13328 and is available for only $4.
Richard Adams wanted to build a model
for the Golden Age Civil event at Muncie,
Indiana, this past year. He found a Golden
Age Reproductions kit of the Cessna C-34,
so he ordered it to save building time.
Richard said that the kit was extremely
nice, with light wood and good tissue.
The plans were a Megow design for a
30-inch-wingspan version of the C-34.
Richard built the kit to the plans except that
he doubled the number of wing ribs and
made them from 1/32 sheet instead of 1/16.
He revised the airfoil to a standard 12%
Clark Y and added a 1/16 square spar
between the LE and the main spar. Richard
set wing dihedral as shown on the plans and
built the horizontal stabilizer to the size
shown on the plans.
On its first test flights the Cessna
exhibited poor stability and would roll off
on one wing or the other and go into a
diving turn. Richard changed the tail
incidence and nose weight, but the model
never demonstrated any degree of stability.
He posted the problem on the Free
Flight News Group to see what kind of
advice he could get. Most responses
suggested adding more dihedral to the wing
and increasing the horizontal tail area.
Not having time to make those changes
before going to Muncie, Rich tried a
temporary fix that John Majane suggested.
He added tabs to the TE of each wingtip
and bent them up at a 45° angle.
Rich tested the model at Muncie. It flew
well under power, but when the power ran
down, the model flipped nose-up into a
snap stall and went nose down, vertical.
Luckily the ground was there to stop it.
Those who were around commented—okay,
joked—that they had never seen anything
like it. Even Chris Starleaf joked that it was
not against the FAC rules to add dihedral on
models.
Rather than give up, Rich tried again but
only managed to rearrange the wing-tofuselage
joint in such a way that the model
was unflyable (read “destroyed”).
When he returned home, Rich sawed the
wing in half, cleaned up the joints, and
added 3° of dihedral to each panel. He built
a new horizontal tail, increasing the area by
at least 20%. After guessing at the tail
incidence and balancing the Cessna at the
main spar, he went out for some test glides.
The model was perfect right out of his
hands!
Rich wound in 500 turns and gave the
model a light toss. It climbed out to
approximately 75 feet; made a long, lazy
circle; and finally ran out of power, settling
into a long, flat glide. It was a different
airplane altogether!
Rich wanted to make sure I reported the
success to all who provided insight and
suggestions and thank them for a new
lesson learned. You’re never too old to
learn in this hobby.
He manufactures and sells an excellent
winder for FAC-size rubber-powered
models. The price is roughly $50. Now that
you know how to get it to fly, build your
own Cessna Airmaster from the Golden
Age Reproductions kit, available from the
Penn Valley Hobby Center.
Rich’s trials reminded me of an
experience I had years ago with a Golden
Age P-35 kit. After deciding to build it, I
recalled a short note by Gordon Roberts in
an issue of the Flying Aces newsletter; he
wrote that the Golden Age P-35 needed
additional stabilizer area to fly well.
There was a full-size pattern of the
enlarged stabilizer in the newsletter. I used
it on my model and had success flying the
model.
The larger stabilizer will not fit the
fuselage properly. You can either move the
former in front of the stabilizer forward or
extend the fuselage beneath the stabilizer. I
prefer the latter. It won’t shorten the tail
moment and keeps the fuselage from
looking too short.
Before building a scale model from a kit
or plans, calculate the wing and stabilizer
areas. The area of the wing and stabilizer
“inside the fuselage” are counted in the
calculation. These models will usually fly
best with a stabilizer that is 22%-25% of
the wing area.
222 Nexus Experience
This model started as a Nexus 30
more than five years ago. It was my first
helicopter, and I learned a lot from it.
At the local hobby shop I saw a
Century Hawk fitted into a 30-size Bell
222 fuselage and fell in love with it. So
after a little bit of homework I placed an
order. Painting it was another learning
experience. A friend of mine made the
Canadian Air Force water-slide decals,
and the navigation lights are by Curtek.
The photo was taken on a trip to the
field one day when my friend Tom was
practicing his photography, so it was
only natural to get some great photos. I
have more photos and video on my
RunRyder gallery. MA
—Shawn Ireland
[email protected]
E-mail your high-resolution
“Viewfinder” photo to michaelr@model
aircraft.org with a short note describing
the airplane or helicopter story.
Viewfinder
Continued on page 155
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:53 AM Page 152
May 2008 155
Celebrating30Years!
- SECURE SHOPPING WITH OUR ONLINE CATALOG -
www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com
[email protected]
Phone (479) 359-2429 Fax (479) 359-2259
Hours: Monday - Friday 9 to 5 CST
15715 Ashmore Dr., Garfield, Arkansas 72732
LARGEST COLLECTION OF
EPOXY GLASS COWLS &
WHEEL PANTS IN THE WORLD!
Download a Free Catalog from the World's
Largest Manufacturer of Model Airplane
Cowls, Wheelpants & Accessories.
Need Lites? 21 Choices!
NEED MORE INFO?
See your hobby retailer or send a #10 S.A.S.E. to
229 E. ROLLINS RD., ROUND LAKE BEACH, IL 60073 USA
(847) 740-8726 FAX: (847) 740-8727
WWW.RAMRCandRAMTrack.com
$34.95 A - RAM 01 Flashing Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 B - RAM 02 Strobe, simulated, adj.
$39.95 C - RAM 03 Landing lights, 4.8V (2)
$24.95 B - RAM 04 Rotating Beacon, adj.
$34.95 D - RAM 06 Sky Lights (18)
$29.95 A - RAM 14 Big Nav. (3) to 168”
$19.95 A - RAM 15 Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 C - RAM 16 Econo Landing Lights (2)
$29.95 C - RAM 186 Gun Flash (4), adj.
INCANDESCENT
B
A
B
A B
C
C
A
$34.95 B - RAM 23 Single Strobe, adj.
$49.95 B - RAM 42 Dual Strobe, adj.
XENON
$44.95 A - RAM 121 Flashing Nav. (3) to 94”
$29.95 B - RAM 122 Strobe, simulated, adj.
$29.95 C - RAM 123 Landing Lites (2)
$39.95 A - RAM 124 Big Nav. (3) to 168”
$34.95 A - RAM 125 Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 A - RAM 132 Park Flyer Nav (3) to 48” to 12V
$19.95 C - RAM 161 ARF Nav. wireless (3) 4.5V
$29.95 A - RAM 174 Micro Heli, Nav. (3) LG (2) to 12V
$29.95 A - RAM 175 Heli, Nav. (3) LG (2) to 12V
$24.95 E - RAM 179 3 D Lites (18), 3 Colors
ULTRA BRITE LEDs
• Assembled in USA
since 1976
• Fits any R/C Plane or Heli
• 9 Volt, unless noted
Some of the older plans have been
copied so many times that they have lost
their accuracy. Use a straightedge to be
sure that the wing LE is straight, measure
both wings to be sure they are equal in
length, and compare the wing-chord size
to the fuselage side view to be sure that
the wing is not too wide or too narrow to
fit properly in its slot in the fuselage.
The Rearwin Speedster’s sleek lines
have appealed to modelers for
generations, and Mike Welshans is no
exception. He has built several models of
this airplane through the years, including
a Jumbo version.
Mike drew an excellent set of plans
for a smaller model of the Rearwin
Speedster. They were included in the
contestants’ packets at last year’s
Outdoor Champs in Muncie.
The model spans 24 inches. Mike’s
prototype weighs 34 grams without the
motor. He uses a 12-gram motor to drive
an 8-inch white nylon propeller from Lee
Campbell at Campbell’s Custom Kits.
The drive hardware, located just behind
the propeller and spinner, is a P-30
propeller driver. The driver is also
available from Campbell’s Custom Kits.
After balancing, Mike painted the
propeller with light-brown Krylon. He
painted the tips with a cream Krylon. The
Fagan propeller logos were generated on
a computer. After applying the logos,
Mike coated the propeller with clear
gloss Krylon. He used a gold paint
marker on the LE at the tips to simulate
the metal.
Because participation in the Fairchild
24 event was down a bit at the FAC
Outdoor Champs, it was decided to
replace the Fairchild with a Rearwin
Speedster event at the Outdoor Champs
in Muncie this fall. The event will be
flown according to Golden Age rules:
three two-minute maxes with a flyoff for
ties. The only deviations allowed from
the plans are nose-block details, motorpeg
placement, and stabilizer mounting.
The Rearwin will not replace the
Fairchild event at the 30th FAC Nats in
Geneseo this July.
If you would like to build the
Rearwin, $5 will get you a set of plans, a
three-view, and a documentation sheet
from FAC GHQ.
George White was a bit skeptical about
whether or not the mini clamps that are
shown would be useful, but it didn’t take
long before he found himself using them
a lot.
Doug Petty, a retired cabinetmaker,
made these clamps from exotic woods.
They are not for sale, but you can make
your own using any hardwood for the
heads and bamboo skewers for the shafts.
The clamping power comes from dental
bands.
Shorty’s Basement now has silver Esaki
tissue. The introductory price is $2.75 per
sheet plus shipping.
Don’t forget to build your Ramrod 250 for
the One Design Gas event at this year’s
Nats. Check out Campbell’s Custom Kits
for plans and/or a short kit. MA
Sources:
AMA Plans Service
www.modelaircraft.org/plans.aspx
(800) 435-9262, extension 507
Campbell’s Custom Kits
(765) 683-1749
www.campbellscustomkits.com/
FAC GHQ
3301 Cindy Ln.
Erie PA 16506
Penn Valley Hobby Center
(215) 855-1268, (215) 368-0770
www.pennvalleyhobbycenter.com/
Rich Adams
1446 Cat Mountain Tr.
Keller TX
[email protected]
Shorty’s Basement
(740) 225-8671
www.shortysbasement.com/index.php
Visit the AMA Education Committee Web site at
www.modelaircraft.org/education.aspx
Free Flight Sport
Continued from page 152
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:56 AM Page 155
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/05
Page Numbers: 150,151,152,155
150 MODEL AVIATION
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache
[[email protected]]
Free Flight Sport Gene Smith
Also included in this column:
• Angled plates for nose-block
drilling
• Golden Age Cessna Airmaster
• Rearwin Speedster plans
• Tiny clamps
• Silver Esaki tissue
• Ramrod 250 Gas One Design
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache looks ready to rumble. It’s a great
first World War II combat model.
Using an angled drill plate allows you to accurately drill nose
blocks for prop-shaft bearings. George White photo.
Bob Schlosberg’s He 100D is beautiful in its imaginary-squadron
colors. Wheels and wheel covers are removable.
Compare the size of the C-34’s new, larger stabilizer to the
original. The model flies much better with the large version.
Richard Adams photo.
BILL SCHMIDT’S 19-inch-span Apache
was enlarged slightly from the 18-inch
Comet plans. Four strands of 1/8-inch rubber
turn a 7-inch Peck-Polymers propeller.
This is a great set of plans. The structure
is simple box-and-former, and it is relatively
easy to build a light model.
Bill used Peck-Polymers green tissue and
a clear sealer. The landing gear and wheelwell
covers are removable. The model is a
super flier.
I remember a particularly windy day in
Kansas (aren’t they all windy?) when this
model took home all the marbles in World
War II combat. The plans—number
22031—are available for $4 from the AMA
Plans Service.
I have been using angled plates and my drill
press to drill nose blocks for prop-shaft
bearings. The plates I use were originally
made to shim motor mounts on RC models.
They came in a set of three, one each of 1°,
2°, and 3°.
With a couple sets I have been able to
drill any combination of downthrust and
right thrust I need. I don’t think they are
available anymore, but you can easily make
your own angled drill plates from a 2-inch
square of 1/8 or 1/4 plywood.
George White made his plates using Jim
O’Reilly’s formula. For 2° of right thrust,
George used a 1/16 shim. To determine the
distance of the shim from the edge of the
drill plate, he made the following
calculation: X = (1/16)/Sin (2) = 1.79
inches. For 4° of downthrust, George
placed a 1/8 shim 1.79 inches from the edge
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:41 AM Page 150
May 2008 151
Mike Welshans’ Rearwin awaits warmer weather for flight-testing.
Welshans photo.
You can fabricate these handy mini clamps from scrap hardwood
and bamboo skewers.
of the drill plate. Use a 3/32 shim for 3°.
He placed the angled plate on the bed of
the Micro-Mark drill press and the
laminated nose block on the angled plate,
ready for drilling. You can make several
angled plates to stack together for
downthrust and right thrust or you can
combine the down and right in one plate, as
shown.
You just knew that junior-high school
trigonometry would come in handy
someday.
This past year the Heinkel He 100D was
pronounced legal for Flying Aces Club
(FAC) World War II mass-launch
competitions. Don Srull designed a nice 23-
inch-span model. It is a great flier.
It was the first World War II low-wing
model I built when I got back into this
aspect of the hobby almost 20 years ago.
The plans were published in Model Airplane
News in 1977, and the airplane was kitted by
Flyline Models.
Among the photos, you will see Bob
Schlosberg’s slick rendition of the He
100D. Most of the models you see of this
fighter are finished in a solid dark green
Order foam wings from
the AMA Plans Service.
(765) 287-1256, extension 507
on top and gray on the bottom. Since Bob
flies over fields of clover (sounds almost
poetic), he figured that a somewhat lighter
paint scheme would be prudent. The finish
doesn’t match any known operational
airplanes, but it looks authentic for the era.
I flew a Fiat G.55 with a sand-andspinach
camouflage scheme at Geneseo,
New York, one year. Not only did those
colors blend in with the ground and grass,
but the white markings almost matched the
small white flowers that were mixed in with
the grass! The model was nearly invisible
when it landed.
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:49 AM Page 151
152 MODEL AVIATION
Bob built his He 100D from the nolonger-
produced Flyline kit. You might be
able to pick one up on eBay for a princely
sum. A better option would be to purchase a
set of plans from the AMA Plans Service; it
is number 13328 and is available for only $4.
Richard Adams wanted to build a model
for the Golden Age Civil event at Muncie,
Indiana, this past year. He found a Golden
Age Reproductions kit of the Cessna C-34,
so he ordered it to save building time.
Richard said that the kit was extremely
nice, with light wood and good tissue.
The plans were a Megow design for a
30-inch-wingspan version of the C-34.
Richard built the kit to the plans except that
he doubled the number of wing ribs and
made them from 1/32 sheet instead of 1/16.
He revised the airfoil to a standard 12%
Clark Y and added a 1/16 square spar
between the LE and the main spar. Richard
set wing dihedral as shown on the plans and
built the horizontal stabilizer to the size
shown on the plans.
On its first test flights the Cessna
exhibited poor stability and would roll off
on one wing or the other and go into a
diving turn. Richard changed the tail
incidence and nose weight, but the model
never demonstrated any degree of stability.
He posted the problem on the Free
Flight News Group to see what kind of
advice he could get. Most responses
suggested adding more dihedral to the wing
and increasing the horizontal tail area.
Not having time to make those changes
before going to Muncie, Rich tried a
temporary fix that John Majane suggested.
He added tabs to the TE of each wingtip
and bent them up at a 45° angle.
Rich tested the model at Muncie. It flew
well under power, but when the power ran
down, the model flipped nose-up into a
snap stall and went nose down, vertical.
Luckily the ground was there to stop it.
Those who were around commented—okay,
joked—that they had never seen anything
like it. Even Chris Starleaf joked that it was
not against the FAC rules to add dihedral on
models.
Rather than give up, Rich tried again but
only managed to rearrange the wing-tofuselage
joint in such a way that the model
was unflyable (read “destroyed”).
When he returned home, Rich sawed the
wing in half, cleaned up the joints, and
added 3° of dihedral to each panel. He built
a new horizontal tail, increasing the area by
at least 20%. After guessing at the tail
incidence and balancing the Cessna at the
main spar, he went out for some test glides.
The model was perfect right out of his
hands!
Rich wound in 500 turns and gave the
model a light toss. It climbed out to
approximately 75 feet; made a long, lazy
circle; and finally ran out of power, settling
into a long, flat glide. It was a different
airplane altogether!
Rich wanted to make sure I reported the
success to all who provided insight and
suggestions and thank them for a new
lesson learned. You’re never too old to
learn in this hobby.
He manufactures and sells an excellent
winder for FAC-size rubber-powered
models. The price is roughly $50. Now that
you know how to get it to fly, build your
own Cessna Airmaster from the Golden
Age Reproductions kit, available from the
Penn Valley Hobby Center.
Rich’s trials reminded me of an
experience I had years ago with a Golden
Age P-35 kit. After deciding to build it, I
recalled a short note by Gordon Roberts in
an issue of the Flying Aces newsletter; he
wrote that the Golden Age P-35 needed
additional stabilizer area to fly well.
There was a full-size pattern of the
enlarged stabilizer in the newsletter. I used
it on my model and had success flying the
model.
The larger stabilizer will not fit the
fuselage properly. You can either move the
former in front of the stabilizer forward or
extend the fuselage beneath the stabilizer. I
prefer the latter. It won’t shorten the tail
moment and keeps the fuselage from
looking too short.
Before building a scale model from a kit
or plans, calculate the wing and stabilizer
areas. The area of the wing and stabilizer
“inside the fuselage” are counted in the
calculation. These models will usually fly
best with a stabilizer that is 22%-25% of
the wing area.
222 Nexus Experience
This model started as a Nexus 30
more than five years ago. It was my first
helicopter, and I learned a lot from it.
At the local hobby shop I saw a
Century Hawk fitted into a 30-size Bell
222 fuselage and fell in love with it. So
after a little bit of homework I placed an
order. Painting it was another learning
experience. A friend of mine made the
Canadian Air Force water-slide decals,
and the navigation lights are by Curtek.
The photo was taken on a trip to the
field one day when my friend Tom was
practicing his photography, so it was
only natural to get some great photos. I
have more photos and video on my
RunRyder gallery. MA
—Shawn Ireland
[email protected]
E-mail your high-resolution
“Viewfinder” photo to michaelr@model
aircraft.org with a short note describing
the airplane or helicopter story.
Viewfinder
Continued on page 155
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:53 AM Page 152
May 2008 155
Celebrating30Years!
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• Assembled in USA
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• Fits any R/C Plane or Heli
• 9 Volt, unless noted
Some of the older plans have been
copied so many times that they have lost
their accuracy. Use a straightedge to be
sure that the wing LE is straight, measure
both wings to be sure they are equal in
length, and compare the wing-chord size
to the fuselage side view to be sure that
the wing is not too wide or too narrow to
fit properly in its slot in the fuselage.
The Rearwin Speedster’s sleek lines
have appealed to modelers for
generations, and Mike Welshans is no
exception. He has built several models of
this airplane through the years, including
a Jumbo version.
Mike drew an excellent set of plans
for a smaller model of the Rearwin
Speedster. They were included in the
contestants’ packets at last year’s
Outdoor Champs in Muncie.
The model spans 24 inches. Mike’s
prototype weighs 34 grams without the
motor. He uses a 12-gram motor to drive
an 8-inch white nylon propeller from Lee
Campbell at Campbell’s Custom Kits.
The drive hardware, located just behind
the propeller and spinner, is a P-30
propeller driver. The driver is also
available from Campbell’s Custom Kits.
After balancing, Mike painted the
propeller with light-brown Krylon. He
painted the tips with a cream Krylon. The
Fagan propeller logos were generated on
a computer. After applying the logos,
Mike coated the propeller with clear
gloss Krylon. He used a gold paint
marker on the LE at the tips to simulate
the metal.
Because participation in the Fairchild
24 event was down a bit at the FAC
Outdoor Champs, it was decided to
replace the Fairchild with a Rearwin
Speedster event at the Outdoor Champs
in Muncie this fall. The event will be
flown according to Golden Age rules:
three two-minute maxes with a flyoff for
ties. The only deviations allowed from
the plans are nose-block details, motorpeg
placement, and stabilizer mounting.
The Rearwin will not replace the
Fairchild event at the 30th FAC Nats in
Geneseo this July.
If you would like to build the
Rearwin, $5 will get you a set of plans, a
three-view, and a documentation sheet
from FAC GHQ.
George White was a bit skeptical about
whether or not the mini clamps that are
shown would be useful, but it didn’t take
long before he found himself using them
a lot.
Doug Petty, a retired cabinetmaker,
made these clamps from exotic woods.
They are not for sale, but you can make
your own using any hardwood for the
heads and bamboo skewers for the shafts.
The clamping power comes from dental
bands.
Shorty’s Basement now has silver Esaki
tissue. The introductory price is $2.75 per
sheet plus shipping.
Don’t forget to build your Ramrod 250 for
the One Design Gas event at this year’s
Nats. Check out Campbell’s Custom Kits
for plans and/or a short kit. MA
Sources:
AMA Plans Service
www.modelaircraft.org/plans.aspx
(800) 435-9262, extension 507
Campbell’s Custom Kits
(765) 683-1749
www.campbellscustomkits.com/
FAC GHQ
3301 Cindy Ln.
Erie PA 16506
Penn Valley Hobby Center
(215) 855-1268, (215) 368-0770
www.pennvalleyhobbycenter.com/
Rich Adams
1446 Cat Mountain Tr.
Keller TX
[email protected]
Shorty’s Basement
(740) 225-8671
www.shortysbasement.com/index.php
Visit the AMA Education Committee Web site at
www.modelaircraft.org/education.aspx
Free Flight Sport
Continued from page 152
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:56 AM Page 155
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/05
Page Numbers: 150,151,152,155
150 MODEL AVIATION
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache
[[email protected]]
Free Flight Sport Gene Smith
Also included in this column:
• Angled plates for nose-block
drilling
• Golden Age Cessna Airmaster
• Rearwin Speedster plans
• Tiny clamps
• Silver Esaki tissue
• Ramrod 250 Gas One Design
Bill Schmidt’s Comet Apache looks ready to rumble. It’s a great
first World War II combat model.
Using an angled drill plate allows you to accurately drill nose
blocks for prop-shaft bearings. George White photo.
Bob Schlosberg’s He 100D is beautiful in its imaginary-squadron
colors. Wheels and wheel covers are removable.
Compare the size of the C-34’s new, larger stabilizer to the
original. The model flies much better with the large version.
Richard Adams photo.
BILL SCHMIDT’S 19-inch-span Apache
was enlarged slightly from the 18-inch
Comet plans. Four strands of 1/8-inch rubber
turn a 7-inch Peck-Polymers propeller.
This is a great set of plans. The structure
is simple box-and-former, and it is relatively
easy to build a light model.
Bill used Peck-Polymers green tissue and
a clear sealer. The landing gear and wheelwell
covers are removable. The model is a
super flier.
I remember a particularly windy day in
Kansas (aren’t they all windy?) when this
model took home all the marbles in World
War II combat. The plans—number
22031—are available for $4 from the AMA
Plans Service.
I have been using angled plates and my drill
press to drill nose blocks for prop-shaft
bearings. The plates I use were originally
made to shim motor mounts on RC models.
They came in a set of three, one each of 1°,
2°, and 3°.
With a couple sets I have been able to
drill any combination of downthrust and
right thrust I need. I don’t think they are
available anymore, but you can easily make
your own angled drill plates from a 2-inch
square of 1/8 or 1/4 plywood.
George White made his plates using Jim
O’Reilly’s formula. For 2° of right thrust,
George used a 1/16 shim. To determine the
distance of the shim from the edge of the
drill plate, he made the following
calculation: X = (1/16)/Sin (2) = 1.79
inches. For 4° of downthrust, George
placed a 1/8 shim 1.79 inches from the edge
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:41 AM Page 150
May 2008 151
Mike Welshans’ Rearwin awaits warmer weather for flight-testing.
Welshans photo.
You can fabricate these handy mini clamps from scrap hardwood
and bamboo skewers.
of the drill plate. Use a 3/32 shim for 3°.
He placed the angled plate on the bed of
the Micro-Mark drill press and the
laminated nose block on the angled plate,
ready for drilling. You can make several
angled plates to stack together for
downthrust and right thrust or you can
combine the down and right in one plate, as
shown.
You just knew that junior-high school
trigonometry would come in handy
someday.
This past year the Heinkel He 100D was
pronounced legal for Flying Aces Club
(FAC) World War II mass-launch
competitions. Don Srull designed a nice 23-
inch-span model. It is a great flier.
It was the first World War II low-wing
model I built when I got back into this
aspect of the hobby almost 20 years ago.
The plans were published in Model Airplane
News in 1977, and the airplane was kitted by
Flyline Models.
Among the photos, you will see Bob
Schlosberg’s slick rendition of the He
100D. Most of the models you see of this
fighter are finished in a solid dark green
Order foam wings from
the AMA Plans Service.
(765) 287-1256, extension 507
on top and gray on the bottom. Since Bob
flies over fields of clover (sounds almost
poetic), he figured that a somewhat lighter
paint scheme would be prudent. The finish
doesn’t match any known operational
airplanes, but it looks authentic for the era.
I flew a Fiat G.55 with a sand-andspinach
camouflage scheme at Geneseo,
New York, one year. Not only did those
colors blend in with the ground and grass,
but the white markings almost matched the
small white flowers that were mixed in with
the grass! The model was nearly invisible
when it landed.
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:49 AM Page 151
152 MODEL AVIATION
Bob built his He 100D from the nolonger-
produced Flyline kit. You might be
able to pick one up on eBay for a princely
sum. A better option would be to purchase a
set of plans from the AMA Plans Service; it
is number 13328 and is available for only $4.
Richard Adams wanted to build a model
for the Golden Age Civil event at Muncie,
Indiana, this past year. He found a Golden
Age Reproductions kit of the Cessna C-34,
so he ordered it to save building time.
Richard said that the kit was extremely
nice, with light wood and good tissue.
The plans were a Megow design for a
30-inch-wingspan version of the C-34.
Richard built the kit to the plans except that
he doubled the number of wing ribs and
made them from 1/32 sheet instead of 1/16.
He revised the airfoil to a standard 12%
Clark Y and added a 1/16 square spar
between the LE and the main spar. Richard
set wing dihedral as shown on the plans and
built the horizontal stabilizer to the size
shown on the plans.
On its first test flights the Cessna
exhibited poor stability and would roll off
on one wing or the other and go into a
diving turn. Richard changed the tail
incidence and nose weight, but the model
never demonstrated any degree of stability.
He posted the problem on the Free
Flight News Group to see what kind of
advice he could get. Most responses
suggested adding more dihedral to the wing
and increasing the horizontal tail area.
Not having time to make those changes
before going to Muncie, Rich tried a
temporary fix that John Majane suggested.
He added tabs to the TE of each wingtip
and bent them up at a 45° angle.
Rich tested the model at Muncie. It flew
well under power, but when the power ran
down, the model flipped nose-up into a
snap stall and went nose down, vertical.
Luckily the ground was there to stop it.
Those who were around commented—okay,
joked—that they had never seen anything
like it. Even Chris Starleaf joked that it was
not against the FAC rules to add dihedral on
models.
Rather than give up, Rich tried again but
only managed to rearrange the wing-tofuselage
joint in such a way that the model
was unflyable (read “destroyed”).
When he returned home, Rich sawed the
wing in half, cleaned up the joints, and
added 3° of dihedral to each panel. He built
a new horizontal tail, increasing the area by
at least 20%. After guessing at the tail
incidence and balancing the Cessna at the
main spar, he went out for some test glides.
The model was perfect right out of his
hands!
Rich wound in 500 turns and gave the
model a light toss. It climbed out to
approximately 75 feet; made a long, lazy
circle; and finally ran out of power, settling
into a long, flat glide. It was a different
airplane altogether!
Rich wanted to make sure I reported the
success to all who provided insight and
suggestions and thank them for a new
lesson learned. You’re never too old to
learn in this hobby.
He manufactures and sells an excellent
winder for FAC-size rubber-powered
models. The price is roughly $50. Now that
you know how to get it to fly, build your
own Cessna Airmaster from the Golden
Age Reproductions kit, available from the
Penn Valley Hobby Center.
Rich’s trials reminded me of an
experience I had years ago with a Golden
Age P-35 kit. After deciding to build it, I
recalled a short note by Gordon Roberts in
an issue of the Flying Aces newsletter; he
wrote that the Golden Age P-35 needed
additional stabilizer area to fly well.
There was a full-size pattern of the
enlarged stabilizer in the newsletter. I used
it on my model and had success flying the
model.
The larger stabilizer will not fit the
fuselage properly. You can either move the
former in front of the stabilizer forward or
extend the fuselage beneath the stabilizer. I
prefer the latter. It won’t shorten the tail
moment and keeps the fuselage from
looking too short.
Before building a scale model from a kit
or plans, calculate the wing and stabilizer
areas. The area of the wing and stabilizer
“inside the fuselage” are counted in the
calculation. These models will usually fly
best with a stabilizer that is 22%-25% of
the wing area.
222 Nexus Experience
This model started as a Nexus 30
more than five years ago. It was my first
helicopter, and I learned a lot from it.
At the local hobby shop I saw a
Century Hawk fitted into a 30-size Bell
222 fuselage and fell in love with it. So
after a little bit of homework I placed an
order. Painting it was another learning
experience. A friend of mine made the
Canadian Air Force water-slide decals,
and the navigation lights are by Curtek.
The photo was taken on a trip to the
field one day when my friend Tom was
practicing his photography, so it was
only natural to get some great photos. I
have more photos and video on my
RunRyder gallery. MA
—Shawn Ireland
[email protected]
E-mail your high-resolution
“Viewfinder” photo to michaelr@model
aircraft.org with a short note describing
the airplane or helicopter story.
Viewfinder
Continued on page 155
05sig5.QXD 3/25/08 8:53 AM Page 152
May 2008 155
Celebrating30Years!
- SECURE SHOPPING WITH OUR ONLINE CATALOG -
www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com
[email protected]
Phone (479) 359-2429 Fax (479) 359-2259
Hours: Monday - Friday 9 to 5 CST
15715 Ashmore Dr., Garfield, Arkansas 72732
LARGEST COLLECTION OF
EPOXY GLASS COWLS &
WHEEL PANTS IN THE WORLD!
Download a Free Catalog from the World's
Largest Manufacturer of Model Airplane
Cowls, Wheelpants & Accessories.
Need Lites? 21 Choices!
NEED MORE INFO?
See your hobby retailer or send a #10 S.A.S.E. to
229 E. ROLLINS RD., ROUND LAKE BEACH, IL 60073 USA
(847) 740-8726 FAX: (847) 740-8727
WWW.RAMRCandRAMTrack.com
$34.95 A - RAM 01 Flashing Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 B - RAM 02 Strobe, simulated, adj.
$39.95 C - RAM 03 Landing lights, 4.8V (2)
$24.95 B - RAM 04 Rotating Beacon, adj.
$34.95 D - RAM 06 Sky Lights (18)
$29.95 A - RAM 14 Big Nav. (3) to 168”
$19.95 A - RAM 15 Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 C - RAM 16 Econo Landing Lights (2)
$29.95 C - RAM 186 Gun Flash (4), adj.
INCANDESCENT
B
A
B
A B
C
C
A
$34.95 B - RAM 23 Single Strobe, adj.
$49.95 B - RAM 42 Dual Strobe, adj.
XENON
$44.95 A - RAM 121 Flashing Nav. (3) to 94”
$29.95 B - RAM 122 Strobe, simulated, adj.
$29.95 C - RAM 123 Landing Lites (2)
$39.95 A - RAM 124 Big Nav. (3) to 168”
$34.95 A - RAM 125 Nav. (3) to 94”
$24.95 A - RAM 132 Park Flyer Nav (3) to 48” to 12V
$19.95 C - RAM 161 ARF Nav. wireless (3) 4.5V
$29.95 A - RAM 174 Micro Heli, Nav. (3) LG (2) to 12V
$29.95 A - RAM 175 Heli, Nav. (3) LG (2) to 12V
$24.95 E - RAM 179 3 D Lites (18), 3 Colors
ULTRA BRITE LEDs
• Assembled in USA
since 1976
• Fits any R/C Plane or Heli
• 9 Volt, unless noted
Some of the older plans have been
copied so many times that they have lost
their accuracy. Use a straightedge to be
sure that the wing LE is straight, measure
both wings to be sure they are equal in
length, and compare the wing-chord size
to the fuselage side view to be sure that
the wing is not too wide or too narrow to
fit properly in its slot in the fuselage.
The Rearwin Speedster’s sleek lines
have appealed to modelers for
generations, and Mike Welshans is no
exception. He has built several models of
this airplane through the years, including
a Jumbo version.
Mike drew an excellent set of plans
for a smaller model of the Rearwin
Speedster. They were included in the
contestants’ packets at last year’s
Outdoor Champs in Muncie.
The model spans 24 inches. Mike’s
prototype weighs 34 grams without the
motor. He uses a 12-gram motor to drive
an 8-inch white nylon propeller from Lee
Campbell at Campbell’s Custom Kits.
The drive hardware, located just behind
the propeller and spinner, is a P-30
propeller driver. The driver is also
available from Campbell’s Custom Kits.
After balancing, Mike painted the
propeller with light-brown Krylon. He
painted the tips with a cream Krylon. The
Fagan propeller logos were generated on
a computer. After applying the logos,
Mike coated the propeller with clear
gloss Krylon. He used a gold paint
marker on the LE at the tips to simulate
the metal.
Because participation in the Fairchild
24 event was down a bit at the FAC
Outdoor Champs, it was decided to
replace the Fairchild with a Rearwin
Speedster event at the Outdoor Champs
in Muncie this fall. The event will be
flown according to Golden Age rules:
three two-minute maxes with a flyoff for
ties. The only deviations allowed from
the plans are nose-block details, motorpeg
placement, and stabilizer mounting.
The Rearwin will not replace the
Fairchild event at the 30th FAC Nats in
Geneseo this July.
If you would like to build the
Rearwin, $5 will get you a set of plans, a
three-view, and a documentation sheet
from FAC GHQ.
George White was a bit skeptical about
whether or not the mini clamps that are
shown would be useful, but it didn’t take
long before he found himself using them
a lot.
Doug Petty, a retired cabinetmaker,
made these clamps from exotic woods.
They are not for sale, but you can make
your own using any hardwood for the
heads and bamboo skewers for the shafts.
The clamping power comes from dental
bands.
Shorty’s Basement now has silver Esaki
tissue. The introductory price is $2.75 per
sheet plus shipping.
Don’t forget to build your Ramrod 250 for
the One Design Gas event at this year’s
Nats. Check out Campbell’s Custom Kits
for plans and/or a short kit. MA
Sources:
AMA Plans Service
www.modelaircraft.org/plans.aspx
(800) 435-9262, extension 507
Campbell’s Custom Kits
(765) 683-1749
www.campbellscustomkits.com/
FAC GHQ
3301 Cindy Ln.
Erie PA 16506
Penn Valley Hobby Center
(215) 855-1268, (215) 368-0770
www.pennvalleyhobbycenter.com/
Rich Adams
1446 Cat Mountain Tr.
Keller TX
[email protected]
Shorty’s Basement
(740) 225-8671
www.shortysbasement.com/index.php
Visit the AMA Education Committee Web site at
www.modelaircraft.org/education.aspx
Free Flight Sport
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