136 MODEL AVIATION
[[email protected]]
Free Flight Sport Gene Smith
Tom Arnold’s Ki-100
Also included in this column:
• Nason clutch
• Adjustable thrustline
• Pirate P-30 from Starlink
• DT wire and crimping tool source
• Golden Age Reproductions
• Bill Schmidt’s models
Tom Arnold built this Kawasaki Ki-100 to compete with in the
radial-engined WW II Mass Launch event.
The Nason clutch used on the Ki-100 is reliable and can be used
beneath a spinner.
The rear of the Ki-100’s nose block shows the adjustable thrust
plate and a popular propeller-shaft hook design.
TOM ARNOLD buiLT a beautiful Ki-100: the radial-engine version
of the Japanese Tony. From the top, you can see the Ki-100’s Tony
heritage, with the long wings and skinny fuselage married to that big
radial engine. The wings are the cracked-rib type, with an internal spar
of 1/32 sheet topped with pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 between the ribs on the top,
forming a T-beam.
Although Tom likes movable elevators and rudders for trimming,
he did not install them on his K-100, in an effort to save a few grams.
The elevator is held in place with glue at the rear and aligned with
small internal blocks, so that the LE can be adjusted up or down in a
small slot.
The motor peg is directly behind the wing TE, so the motor is
balanced over the model’s CG. Tom was taken with Clive Gamble’s
Sopwith Camel that has a similar arrangement. Tom used a variation of
the “wobbly peg” that can twist and rotate as the motor unwinds.
Rather than using telescoping tubing to allow the wobble, Tom
made the holes for the motor peg slightly oversized so that the peg is
loose in the holes and can wobble and twist. He used a doughnut of
sliced fuel tubing on the ends of the peg to hold it in place.
The Ki-100’s wing is removable, using magnets at the rear of the
wing and a forward pin to align and secure the wing. This was not as
much for crash damage control as for shipping ease.
The cowl is the defining point of Tom’s aircraft, and the long
airscoop on the top is its crowning glory. Bending that scoop to the
side and down for thrustline adjustment would ruin the model’s look,
so he made an internally adjustable propeller shaft.
Tom’s method is a sheet-metal bearing plate held in place with
wood screws. It is an old trick that he picked up from a newsletter, and
it does work. The photo of the propeller assembly shows the details.
The single screw will hold the propeller shaft setting during trim
flights. When Tom was satisfied with the adjustment, he put a screw in
the second hole to permanently hold the adjustment.
The front of the assembly is a large Peck-Polymers thrust button
with a slightly loose fit in the front of the nose block. The roomy fit
allows adjustment of the thrustline. The nose block rests in a small 1/32
plywood doughnut. Tom uses a 9.5-inch Peck propeller, which has
been slightly narrowed and increased in pitch.
The picture of the rear of the nose block also shows the
increasingly popular propeller shaft hook that was introduced on the
Small Flying Arts Web site. It has the same great properties of the
Koutny hook but does not require melting plastic onto the hook before
forming.
11sig5.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 9/24/09 3:54 PM Page 136
The nose block is held in place and is
prevented from rotating by the small plywood
key that you can see at the bottom of the nose
block. The key fits into a slot in the first
former.
Tom felt that the hardest part of the Ki-100
build was that big cowl. He carved three cowls
before he got it right. The front is a circle, the
former at the edge of the cowl flaps is an egg
with a flattened top, and the centerline of the
radial is below the centerline of the in-line
version.
He decided to square a nice block of soft
balsa, patiently carving and sanding away
anything that didn’t look like cowl. It had to
be hollowed, and 90% of that gorgeous block
was turned into dust.
Another neat feature on Tom’s model is the
Nason clutch. I tried one on a recent model,
and it is slick. This device is much less likely
to slip than a ramp. It is simple to engage the
propeller shaft in the clutch, even when it is
covered by a spinner.
Tom believes that George Nason of
Massachusetts developed the clutch. Tom has
been working with it for several months and
wanted to share some interesting tips.
The angle of the planes between the two claws has to exceed 90°;
roughly 120° seems best. Plan on only one claw being the “catch
claw.” The other claw’s function is strictly as a counterweight, to
keep the catch claw flipped into position to catch the bend in the
propeller shaft.
Both claws should be bent back at an acute angle. Round “U”-
shaped claws look pretty but tend to jam.
Tom finished the bottom of the Ki-100 with Model Master
Aluminum paint mixed with a shot of liquid Krylon and thinner. He
misted the paint on, for a translucent look.
The fuselage bump running underneath the wing is doped bond
paper. The oil cooler scoop, which will get a lot of landing abuse,
was carved from balsa and hardened with CA.
Tom has a great tip for the canopy framing. He made the Ki-
100’s from sign makers’ vinyl (you can easily get scraps from them),
buffed with fine sandpaper. He sprayed it with Model Master Field
Green mixed with some liquid Krylon and thinner.
When cut into strips, the vinyl has the right tack and flexibility to
do the job. It can be removed effortlessly for repositioning.
However, it sticks like a weld after a few hours out in the sun.
The markings are mostly colored tissue. They duplicate aircraft
#33, except for the white “home defense” bands used as a
background to the red meatballs. The bands were used on Tonys that
flew alongside the Ki-100, but Tom has not found a photo showing
the bands on the Ki-100s. Since he wants to get the airplane back
November 2009 137
Bob Thoren achieves a good launch with his Pirate P-30 at the Pensacola FL Gathering of
Turkeys meet.
The clear-doped orange tissue on Bill Schmidt’s Spartan Cabin is a
classic example of scale stick-and-tissue modeling.
Bill Schmidt did a fantastic job on this Vultee Vengeance from
Comet plans.
from green fields, Tom used a bit of historical license and painted
the bands on for visibility help at the flying site.
The Ki-100 was his radial-engine entry in the WW II Mass
Launch at Geneseo, New York, this past summer.
Bob Thoren likes his Pirate P-30. He built it from a Ukrainiandesign
kit that Starlink-FliteTech distributes. The company also
offers a Pzaz P-30 kit.
Bob says that the Pirate flies great but needs quite a bit of
downthrust/side thrust. It’s difficult to make that adjustment,
because the nose block fits into an aluminum ring in the motor tube.
To change downthrust or side thrust, you have to file the nose
ring, which is a tedious process. The wing and stabilizer have
carbon-tube spars and are strong. As is the case with most of the
latest generation of P-30s, the motor tube is tiny in diameter, less
than 3/4 inch, so it’s hard to find a blast tube to fit.
Andy Kovac had been looking for strong, light, flexible, fireproof
DT wire, and he found something that fits all of those requirements.
It is flexible bead-stringing wire (which is nylon-coated stainless
steel) that Michael’s craft store handles.
Size “S” is .015 inch in diameter, made from 49 strands, so it is
very flexible. It can be “capped” at the end with size #1 crimp bead
and, with a drop of epoxy, makes a good connection to the stabilizer
and fuselage.
Continued on page 142
11sig5.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 9/24/09 3:55 PM Page 137
If you use viscous timers, as I do, the
timer end can be formed into a nice loop
with crimp beads. The beads have to be
attached with a crimping tool, which is
also available at Michael’s, for a total of
approximately $12. Andy also found
.5mm elastic cord for use with the
viscous timer, if you don’t use a spring.
Jim Fiorello, who owns Golden Age
Reproductions, purchased the company
20 years ago. He has added two designs
of his own: the Me 109 and the
Stormovik Il-2.
In addition, Jim has acquired rights to
Seaglen and Bell models and is
producing those kits. He also sells many
plans sets that are not listed on his Web
site but are listed in a catalog that is
available for $3.
John Ernst is not only a talented and
prolific model builder, but he is also host
of the FF Cookup group on Yahoo!. Visit
his site, which will give your eyes a treat.
Be sure to check out the Raiden project
and see the technique that John is using
for wing fillets.
Bill Schmidt is a meticulous craftsman.
He likes to finish his Scale models in the
classic method of colored Japanese tissue
and clear dope.
I have included photos of two of Bill’s
beautiful models in this column. The
Spartan Cabin is from a Golden Age
Reproductions kit, and the Vultee
Vengeance dive-bomber is from Comet
plans. MA
Sources:
Small Flying Arts
(253) 970-0014
www.smallflyingarts.com
Starlink-FliteTech Models
(760) 788-1858
www.starlink-flitetech.com
Golden Age Reproductions
(978) 687-0024
www.goldenagereproductions.com
FF Cookup group:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8ljo4/johnsm
odels/
NFFS
http://freeflight.org
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/11
Page Numbers: 136,137,142
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/11
Page Numbers: 136,137,142
136 MODEL AVIATION
[[email protected]]
Free Flight Sport Gene Smith
Tom Arnold’s Ki-100
Also included in this column:
• Nason clutch
• Adjustable thrustline
• Pirate P-30 from Starlink
• DT wire and crimping tool source
• Golden Age Reproductions
• Bill Schmidt’s models
Tom Arnold built this Kawasaki Ki-100 to compete with in the
radial-engined WW II Mass Launch event.
The Nason clutch used on the Ki-100 is reliable and can be used
beneath a spinner.
The rear of the Ki-100’s nose block shows the adjustable thrust
plate and a popular propeller-shaft hook design.
TOM ARNOLD buiLT a beautiful Ki-100: the radial-engine version
of the Japanese Tony. From the top, you can see the Ki-100’s Tony
heritage, with the long wings and skinny fuselage married to that big
radial engine. The wings are the cracked-rib type, with an internal spar
of 1/32 sheet topped with pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 between the ribs on the top,
forming a T-beam.
Although Tom likes movable elevators and rudders for trimming,
he did not install them on his K-100, in an effort to save a few grams.
The elevator is held in place with glue at the rear and aligned with
small internal blocks, so that the LE can be adjusted up or down in a
small slot.
The motor peg is directly behind the wing TE, so the motor is
balanced over the model’s CG. Tom was taken with Clive Gamble’s
Sopwith Camel that has a similar arrangement. Tom used a variation of
the “wobbly peg” that can twist and rotate as the motor unwinds.
Rather than using telescoping tubing to allow the wobble, Tom
made the holes for the motor peg slightly oversized so that the peg is
loose in the holes and can wobble and twist. He used a doughnut of
sliced fuel tubing on the ends of the peg to hold it in place.
The Ki-100’s wing is removable, using magnets at the rear of the
wing and a forward pin to align and secure the wing. This was not as
much for crash damage control as for shipping ease.
The cowl is the defining point of Tom’s aircraft, and the long
airscoop on the top is its crowning glory. Bending that scoop to the
side and down for thrustline adjustment would ruin the model’s look,
so he made an internally adjustable propeller shaft.
Tom’s method is a sheet-metal bearing plate held in place with
wood screws. It is an old trick that he picked up from a newsletter, and
it does work. The photo of the propeller assembly shows the details.
The single screw will hold the propeller shaft setting during trim
flights. When Tom was satisfied with the adjustment, he put a screw in
the second hole to permanently hold the adjustment.
The front of the assembly is a large Peck-Polymers thrust button
with a slightly loose fit in the front of the nose block. The roomy fit
allows adjustment of the thrustline. The nose block rests in a small 1/32
plywood doughnut. Tom uses a 9.5-inch Peck propeller, which has
been slightly narrowed and increased in pitch.
The picture of the rear of the nose block also shows the
increasingly popular propeller shaft hook that was introduced on the
Small Flying Arts Web site. It has the same great properties of the
Koutny hook but does not require melting plastic onto the hook before
forming.
11sig5.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 9/24/09 3:54 PM Page 136
The nose block is held in place and is
prevented from rotating by the small plywood
key that you can see at the bottom of the nose
block. The key fits into a slot in the first
former.
Tom felt that the hardest part of the Ki-100
build was that big cowl. He carved three cowls
before he got it right. The front is a circle, the
former at the edge of the cowl flaps is an egg
with a flattened top, and the centerline of the
radial is below the centerline of the in-line
version.
He decided to square a nice block of soft
balsa, patiently carving and sanding away
anything that didn’t look like cowl. It had to
be hollowed, and 90% of that gorgeous block
was turned into dust.
Another neat feature on Tom’s model is the
Nason clutch. I tried one on a recent model,
and it is slick. This device is much less likely
to slip than a ramp. It is simple to engage the
propeller shaft in the clutch, even when it is
covered by a spinner.
Tom believes that George Nason of
Massachusetts developed the clutch. Tom has
been working with it for several months and
wanted to share some interesting tips.
The angle of the planes between the two claws has to exceed 90°;
roughly 120° seems best. Plan on only one claw being the “catch
claw.” The other claw’s function is strictly as a counterweight, to
keep the catch claw flipped into position to catch the bend in the
propeller shaft.
Both claws should be bent back at an acute angle. Round “U”-
shaped claws look pretty but tend to jam.
Tom finished the bottom of the Ki-100 with Model Master
Aluminum paint mixed with a shot of liquid Krylon and thinner. He
misted the paint on, for a translucent look.
The fuselage bump running underneath the wing is doped bond
paper. The oil cooler scoop, which will get a lot of landing abuse,
was carved from balsa and hardened with CA.
Tom has a great tip for the canopy framing. He made the Ki-
100’s from sign makers’ vinyl (you can easily get scraps from them),
buffed with fine sandpaper. He sprayed it with Model Master Field
Green mixed with some liquid Krylon and thinner.
When cut into strips, the vinyl has the right tack and flexibility to
do the job. It can be removed effortlessly for repositioning.
However, it sticks like a weld after a few hours out in the sun.
The markings are mostly colored tissue. They duplicate aircraft
#33, except for the white “home defense” bands used as a
background to the red meatballs. The bands were used on Tonys that
flew alongside the Ki-100, but Tom has not found a photo showing
the bands on the Ki-100s. Since he wants to get the airplane back
November 2009 137
Bob Thoren achieves a good launch with his Pirate P-30 at the Pensacola FL Gathering of
Turkeys meet.
The clear-doped orange tissue on Bill Schmidt’s Spartan Cabin is a
classic example of scale stick-and-tissue modeling.
Bill Schmidt did a fantastic job on this Vultee Vengeance from
Comet plans.
from green fields, Tom used a bit of historical license and painted
the bands on for visibility help at the flying site.
The Ki-100 was his radial-engine entry in the WW II Mass
Launch at Geneseo, New York, this past summer.
Bob Thoren likes his Pirate P-30. He built it from a Ukrainiandesign
kit that Starlink-FliteTech distributes. The company also
offers a Pzaz P-30 kit.
Bob says that the Pirate flies great but needs quite a bit of
downthrust/side thrust. It’s difficult to make that adjustment,
because the nose block fits into an aluminum ring in the motor tube.
To change downthrust or side thrust, you have to file the nose
ring, which is a tedious process. The wing and stabilizer have
carbon-tube spars and are strong. As is the case with most of the
latest generation of P-30s, the motor tube is tiny in diameter, less
than 3/4 inch, so it’s hard to find a blast tube to fit.
Andy Kovac had been looking for strong, light, flexible, fireproof
DT wire, and he found something that fits all of those requirements.
It is flexible bead-stringing wire (which is nylon-coated stainless
steel) that Michael’s craft store handles.
Size “S” is .015 inch in diameter, made from 49 strands, so it is
very flexible. It can be “capped” at the end with size #1 crimp bead
and, with a drop of epoxy, makes a good connection to the stabilizer
and fuselage.
Continued on page 142
11sig5.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 9/24/09 3:55 PM Page 137
If you use viscous timers, as I do, the
timer end can be formed into a nice loop
with crimp beads. The beads have to be
attached with a crimping tool, which is
also available at Michael’s, for a total of
approximately $12. Andy also found
.5mm elastic cord for use with the
viscous timer, if you don’t use a spring.
Jim Fiorello, who owns Golden Age
Reproductions, purchased the company
20 years ago. He has added two designs
of his own: the Me 109 and the
Stormovik Il-2.
In addition, Jim has acquired rights to
Seaglen and Bell models and is
producing those kits. He also sells many
plans sets that are not listed on his Web
site but are listed in a catalog that is
available for $3.
John Ernst is not only a talented and
prolific model builder, but he is also host
of the FF Cookup group on Yahoo!. Visit
his site, which will give your eyes a treat.
Be sure to check out the Raiden project
and see the technique that John is using
for wing fillets.
Bill Schmidt is a meticulous craftsman.
He likes to finish his Scale models in the
classic method of colored Japanese tissue
and clear dope.
I have included photos of two of Bill’s
beautiful models in this column. The
Spartan Cabin is from a Golden Age
Reproductions kit, and the Vultee
Vengeance dive-bomber is from Comet
plans. MA
Sources:
Small Flying Arts
(253) 970-0014
www.smallflyingarts.com
Starlink-FliteTech Models
(760) 788-1858
www.starlink-flitetech.com
Golden Age Reproductions
(978) 687-0024
www.goldenagereproductions.com
FF Cookup group:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8ljo4/johnsm
odels/
NFFS
http://freeflight.org
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/11
Page Numbers: 136,137,142
136 MODEL AVIATION
[[email protected]]
Free Flight Sport Gene Smith
Tom Arnold’s Ki-100
Also included in this column:
• Nason clutch
• Adjustable thrustline
• Pirate P-30 from Starlink
• DT wire and crimping tool source
• Golden Age Reproductions
• Bill Schmidt’s models
Tom Arnold built this Kawasaki Ki-100 to compete with in the
radial-engined WW II Mass Launch event.
The Nason clutch used on the Ki-100 is reliable and can be used
beneath a spinner.
The rear of the Ki-100’s nose block shows the adjustable thrust
plate and a popular propeller-shaft hook design.
TOM ARNOLD buiLT a beautiful Ki-100: the radial-engine version
of the Japanese Tony. From the top, you can see the Ki-100’s Tony
heritage, with the long wings and skinny fuselage married to that big
radial engine. The wings are the cracked-rib type, with an internal spar
of 1/32 sheet topped with pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 between the ribs on the top,
forming a T-beam.
Although Tom likes movable elevators and rudders for trimming,
he did not install them on his K-100, in an effort to save a few grams.
The elevator is held in place with glue at the rear and aligned with
small internal blocks, so that the LE can be adjusted up or down in a
small slot.
The motor peg is directly behind the wing TE, so the motor is
balanced over the model’s CG. Tom was taken with Clive Gamble’s
Sopwith Camel that has a similar arrangement. Tom used a variation of
the “wobbly peg” that can twist and rotate as the motor unwinds.
Rather than using telescoping tubing to allow the wobble, Tom
made the holes for the motor peg slightly oversized so that the peg is
loose in the holes and can wobble and twist. He used a doughnut of
sliced fuel tubing on the ends of the peg to hold it in place.
The Ki-100’s wing is removable, using magnets at the rear of the
wing and a forward pin to align and secure the wing. This was not as
much for crash damage control as for shipping ease.
The cowl is the defining point of Tom’s aircraft, and the long
airscoop on the top is its crowning glory. Bending that scoop to the
side and down for thrustline adjustment would ruin the model’s look,
so he made an internally adjustable propeller shaft.
Tom’s method is a sheet-metal bearing plate held in place with
wood screws. It is an old trick that he picked up from a newsletter, and
it does work. The photo of the propeller assembly shows the details.
The single screw will hold the propeller shaft setting during trim
flights. When Tom was satisfied with the adjustment, he put a screw in
the second hole to permanently hold the adjustment.
The front of the assembly is a large Peck-Polymers thrust button
with a slightly loose fit in the front of the nose block. The roomy fit
allows adjustment of the thrustline. The nose block rests in a small 1/32
plywood doughnut. Tom uses a 9.5-inch Peck propeller, which has
been slightly narrowed and increased in pitch.
The picture of the rear of the nose block also shows the
increasingly popular propeller shaft hook that was introduced on the
Small Flying Arts Web site. It has the same great properties of the
Koutny hook but does not require melting plastic onto the hook before
forming.
11sig5.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 9/24/09 3:54 PM Page 136
The nose block is held in place and is
prevented from rotating by the small plywood
key that you can see at the bottom of the nose
block. The key fits into a slot in the first
former.
Tom felt that the hardest part of the Ki-100
build was that big cowl. He carved three cowls
before he got it right. The front is a circle, the
former at the edge of the cowl flaps is an egg
with a flattened top, and the centerline of the
radial is below the centerline of the in-line
version.
He decided to square a nice block of soft
balsa, patiently carving and sanding away
anything that didn’t look like cowl. It had to
be hollowed, and 90% of that gorgeous block
was turned into dust.
Another neat feature on Tom’s model is the
Nason clutch. I tried one on a recent model,
and it is slick. This device is much less likely
to slip than a ramp. It is simple to engage the
propeller shaft in the clutch, even when it is
covered by a spinner.
Tom believes that George Nason of
Massachusetts developed the clutch. Tom has
been working with it for several months and
wanted to share some interesting tips.
The angle of the planes between the two claws has to exceed 90°;
roughly 120° seems best. Plan on only one claw being the “catch
claw.” The other claw’s function is strictly as a counterweight, to
keep the catch claw flipped into position to catch the bend in the
propeller shaft.
Both claws should be bent back at an acute angle. Round “U”-
shaped claws look pretty but tend to jam.
Tom finished the bottom of the Ki-100 with Model Master
Aluminum paint mixed with a shot of liquid Krylon and thinner. He
misted the paint on, for a translucent look.
The fuselage bump running underneath the wing is doped bond
paper. The oil cooler scoop, which will get a lot of landing abuse,
was carved from balsa and hardened with CA.
Tom has a great tip for the canopy framing. He made the Ki-
100’s from sign makers’ vinyl (you can easily get scraps from them),
buffed with fine sandpaper. He sprayed it with Model Master Field
Green mixed with some liquid Krylon and thinner.
When cut into strips, the vinyl has the right tack and flexibility to
do the job. It can be removed effortlessly for repositioning.
However, it sticks like a weld after a few hours out in the sun.
The markings are mostly colored tissue. They duplicate aircraft
#33, except for the white “home defense” bands used as a
background to the red meatballs. The bands were used on Tonys that
flew alongside the Ki-100, but Tom has not found a photo showing
the bands on the Ki-100s. Since he wants to get the airplane back
November 2009 137
Bob Thoren achieves a good launch with his Pirate P-30 at the Pensacola FL Gathering of
Turkeys meet.
The clear-doped orange tissue on Bill Schmidt’s Spartan Cabin is a
classic example of scale stick-and-tissue modeling.
Bill Schmidt did a fantastic job on this Vultee Vengeance from
Comet plans.
from green fields, Tom used a bit of historical license and painted
the bands on for visibility help at the flying site.
The Ki-100 was his radial-engine entry in the WW II Mass
Launch at Geneseo, New York, this past summer.
Bob Thoren likes his Pirate P-30. He built it from a Ukrainiandesign
kit that Starlink-FliteTech distributes. The company also
offers a Pzaz P-30 kit.
Bob says that the Pirate flies great but needs quite a bit of
downthrust/side thrust. It’s difficult to make that adjustment,
because the nose block fits into an aluminum ring in the motor tube.
To change downthrust or side thrust, you have to file the nose
ring, which is a tedious process. The wing and stabilizer have
carbon-tube spars and are strong. As is the case with most of the
latest generation of P-30s, the motor tube is tiny in diameter, less
than 3/4 inch, so it’s hard to find a blast tube to fit.
Andy Kovac had been looking for strong, light, flexible, fireproof
DT wire, and he found something that fits all of those requirements.
It is flexible bead-stringing wire (which is nylon-coated stainless
steel) that Michael’s craft store handles.
Size “S” is .015 inch in diameter, made from 49 strands, so it is
very flexible. It can be “capped” at the end with size #1 crimp bead
and, with a drop of epoxy, makes a good connection to the stabilizer
and fuselage.
Continued on page 142
11sig5.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 9/24/09 3:55 PM Page 137
If you use viscous timers, as I do, the
timer end can be formed into a nice loop
with crimp beads. The beads have to be
attached with a crimping tool, which is
also available at Michael’s, for a total of
approximately $12. Andy also found
.5mm elastic cord for use with the
viscous timer, if you don’t use a spring.
Jim Fiorello, who owns Golden Age
Reproductions, purchased the company
20 years ago. He has added two designs
of his own: the Me 109 and the
Stormovik Il-2.
In addition, Jim has acquired rights to
Seaglen and Bell models and is
producing those kits. He also sells many
plans sets that are not listed on his Web
site but are listed in a catalog that is
available for $3.
John Ernst is not only a talented and
prolific model builder, but he is also host
of the FF Cookup group on Yahoo!. Visit
his site, which will give your eyes a treat.
Be sure to check out the Raiden project
and see the technique that John is using
for wing fillets.
Bill Schmidt is a meticulous craftsman.
He likes to finish his Scale models in the
classic method of colored Japanese tissue
and clear dope.
I have included photos of two of Bill’s
beautiful models in this column. The
Spartan Cabin is from a Golden Age
Reproductions kit, and the Vultee
Vengeance dive-bomber is from Comet
plans. MA
Sources:
Small Flying Arts
(253) 970-0014
www.smallflyingarts.com
Starlink-FliteTech Models
(760) 788-1858
www.starlink-flitetech.com
Golden Age Reproductions
(978) 687-0024
www.goldenagereproductions.com
FF Cookup group:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8ljo4/johnsm
odels/
NFFS
http://freeflight.org