Author: Bob Aberle

Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/12
Page Numbers: 98, 99, 100
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Frequently Asked Questions

Please write in with your questions, since that is the only way we can keep this column format going. When referring to already published Q/As (for follow-ups), provide the number as a reference. References to addresses and Web sites are now placed in a group, separate from the text, at the end of this column under "Sources."

Q377: "I was wondering if any new devices were being developed for our model aircraft use that employ GPS technology?"

A377: I just learned that Ralph Weaver, who operates a company in Indiana called Magellan Technologies, has come up with a new device he calls the SkyTraceGPS. Ralph is a well-known modeler who CDed the AMA RC Electrics Nats in Muncie, Indiana, for many years.

His SkyTraceGPS is an RC aircraft GPS logger (or recorder). It can record position, altitude, and ground speed every second during any given RC model flight. The recorded information can be downloaded to a Windows PC after each flight, where the data can be analyzed and even viewed with Google Earth.

Ralph claims that his SkyTraceGPS is more than an altitude logger. It can be used to provide climb rate and show climb angle, ground speed, distance flown, track angle, and more. The SkyTraceGPS is selling for $149.

Q378: "I think I have a good handle on what cements to use safely with foam material, but what do I need to know when it comes to painting Styrofoam surfaces?"

A378: Before I start, keep in mind that many types of foam are used in our hobby industry. Some of those "melt," while others are unaffected. When it comes to cement or paint, test the chemical on a scrap piece of the foam with which you are working. If anything is going to melt, it's better that it happen before you touch your aircraft.

Almost all cyanoacrylate glue suppliers for our hobby offer a special variety that is foam-safe or foam-friendly. These companies also offer companion accelerators to work with these special cyanoacrylates. You are advised to buy both the cyanoacrylate and the accelerator when working with any kind of foam. There are exceptions, such as Elapor foam by Multiplex USA that can handle regular cyanoacrylate without melting. There are also cements available for foam applications that are not the cyanoacrylate variety.

Now to foam-friendly paints. I have used the Krylon-brand water-based latex spray (H2O) on several types of foam, including the common pink insulation variety that you can find at home-improvement stores. But be careful even when using these water-based spray paints, because an aerosol propellant fluid is added to make the product disperse. For good reason, the directions on the container advise the user to shake the spray can for several minutes to ensure that the propellant is evenly blended throughout the paint. I got careless recently and did not shake my Krylon H2O for very long. As a result, the pink foam I was painting began to melt slightly. So even though you have a water-based paint product, you aren't home free unless you vigorously shake the can to mix the propellant and allow time to evaporate before it can reach the surface.

I recently constructed several micro aircraft (including those with 25- and 28-gram total weights) from 2mm Depron foam sheet. To make sure I was doing the right thing, I asked experts such as MA's "Small-Field Flying" columnist Paul Bradley, and newly inducted Model Aviation Hall of Fame member Scott Christensen (the vice president of product development at Sig Manufacturing Co.) for recommendations. There is a bewildering number of acrylic and enamel paints at the popular national craft stores, such as Michaels and A.C. Moore. Both Paul and Scott steered me to the Testors Corporation, which has been serving our hobby needs with cement and paints for many years. You can obtain an extensive catalog/color chart from the company.

For my purpose, Paul recommended the Testors Model Master Acryl acrylic paint, which comes primarily in 1/2-ounce bottles with flat, semigloss, and full-gloss finishes. These water-based paints are well suited for use on the various foam materials that are found in our hobby. You can clean the brushes with water after use.

I learned that when painting stripes on the Depron foam surfaces, the paint can easily penetrate (or "bleed" underneath) the masking tape. To prevent this, I sealed the edges of the tape to the foam using Model Master flat clear acrylic paint (item 4636). Then I brushed on the colored stripes. When I removed the tape later, I had a clean paint line.

I needed to spray a flat olive drab over a wing covered with Manzano Laser Works' Doculam, which is a clear iron-on covering. For this application, Scott Christensen recommended the Testors all-purpose Spray Enamel. It comes in 3-ounce cans.

After covering my wing, I lightly sanded the surface with 400-grit paper. Then I wiped the surface with denatured alcohol before spraying the enamel. I also had a small amount of pink foam on this model, and, to my surprise, I found that the enamel was foam-friendly in this case.

I did find it difficult to obtain all the colors and types of Testors paints at my local craft stores. It was much easier to order the products from the company's Web site, to call in the order, or to mail in an order form. In all cases, I got my paints in approximately a week. If you are successful using any or all of these suggestions, I'd like to hear from you.

A379: Decals and custom graphics

I'm sure I’ve covered this subject before, but it may have been a long time ago.

One of the oldest decal suppliers for model aircraft is Major Decal (Northeast Screen Graphics) of East Longmeadow, Massachusetts. Through the years, you might have seen the Major Decal booth at a national hobby trade show.

The company offers pressure-sensitive and water-transfer decals. I’ve used many of its military-type decals on my scale aircraft with success. You can use the Web site to select decals or order a full decal catalog.

One of my fellow SEFLI (Silent Electric Flyers of Long Island) club members told me about a custom decal manufacturer that caters to the model-aircraft hobbyist. It is called Callie Graphics and is based in Edgewood, New Mexico. Although I haven’t used this service yet, the company comes recommended. Its specialty is custom-made decals, which will please many serious scale modelers.

Another interesting approach to decals is to make your own using a special water-slide decal paper. I buy from Bell Inc. of Miami, Florida, which sells paper with a clear backing and paper with a white backing. I’ve found the clear to be more useful for my needs.

The best way to begin is to purchase the $17 starter package that consists of 10 (8-1/2 x 11-inch) clear sheets and 10 white sheets. Use your word-processing program to make letters, numbers, and graphics. My Microsoft Word program allows me to print letters and numerals up to at least 2 inches in height. You can also take digital photos of scale aircraft emblems, transfer them to your program, and produce the images on an ink-jet printer.

Once the graphics have been printed on the material, fix the image with several light spray coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating (item 1303) or the Matte Finish version (item 1311). When the spray dries thoroughly, immerse the decal in warm water and slide it onto the model’s surface. Blot the excess water, and let the transferred decal dry thoroughly.

It’s a good idea to mist a final spray coat of the Krylon clear coating. This is especially important when flying fueled aircraft, which may have exhaust residue.

I’ve successfully used these “homemade” decals on many models through the years. With this technique, you get exactly what you want in the shortest possible time.

Last Comments

I receive many E-mails from readers who claim that the Web site information included in the “Sources” section at the end of my column is in error. Our MA staff checks and verifies every referenced Web site before it is committed to print. I’ve found their work to be essentially error free.

But I have noticed that many people assume that there is an "html" at the end of an address, when it is "htm." This error can go either way, and it seems to happen every month.

When using a referenced Web site, please be sure you have the exact address and include underlines and hyphens as necessary. But if you still have a problem, rest assured that you can reach me easily at my E-mail address. MA

Sources

  • Magellan Technologies

8648 Log Run Dr. S. Indianapolis, IN 46234 www.magtechnic.net

  • Testors Corporation

(800) 962-6654 www.testors.com

  • Manzano Laser Works

(505) 286-2640 www.manzanolaser.com

  • Major Decal

(800) 373-8885 www.majordecals.com

  • Callie Graphics

(505) 281-9310 www.callie-graphics.com

  • Bell Inc.

(305) 593-0911 www.belldecal.com

Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.