72 MODEL AVIATION
THIS IS THE fourth monthly column in which I provide you with
the best possible answers to questions readers have written or Emailed
to me. Each set of questions and answers is given a
sequential number for identification purposes. Because publication
space is limited, the questions featured here and spillover material
will be posted on the AMA Web site. Let’s get started!
Q31: “I have seen references to RC transmitters that operate on
Mode II and Mode I. What are they referring to?”
A31: They are referring to the transmitter’s control-stick
configuration. The majority of RC transmitters flown in the US
today employ what we call the “Mode II” control-stick
configuration. This is what you will see in use at most local flying
fields throughout the country.
In the Mode II arrangement, the right-side, dual-axis control
stick provides for aileron (side-to-side stick motion) and elevator
(up-and-down stick motion). The left stick assembly provides
rudder control (side-to-side stick motion) while the throttle control
stick moves up and down. The spring return is removed from the
throttle stick and a detent device is employed so that the throttle
remains where you set it.
Present-day RC manufacturers have told me that 8%-10% of the
RC modelers in the US still use the less-common Mode I controlstick
configuration. With this arrangement, the right-side transmitter
control-stick assembly provides aileron and throttle control, and the
left stick assembly controls the elevator and rudder.
The idea behind this is to separate the two basic flight controls—
ailerons and elevator—so that the right hand operates the ailerons
and the left hand controls the elevator. I understand that the Mode I
control-stick configuration is more popular throughout Europe and
the Far East. I guess it depends on what you get used to.
Through the years, several modelers have asked me to help them
fly with a Mode I transmitter, and believe me, it took all my
concentration to handle it. Many current RC transmitters can be
configured to the Mode I setup, although the conversion usually
entails sending the transmitter back to the factory. As a minimum,
the throttle detent must be moved from the left to the right controlstick
assembly.
Phil Kraft—Kraft Systems founder and national and international
RC Aerobatics champion—always flew with the Mode I stick
configuration. The choice is yours, but it is better to stick with the
majority, especially when you are a beginner and must seek help
from other pilots who will most likely be Mode II fliers.
Years ago, there was another popular RC transmitter which
provided full four-channel control from a single three-axis control
stick. I flew that type of system for more than 20 years, until it
finally became extinct.
With the single-stick transmitter, you held the case with your left
hand, sort of cradling it. You gripped the control stick with your
right hand. A side-to-side motion controlled the ailerons, an up-anddown
motion operated the elevator, and if you rotated the entire
control stick at the same time, you obtained rudder control. Your
left hand’s index finger operated a throttle lever on the side of the
transmitter’s case.
I felt incredibly comfortable with this arrangement, but I was the
odd man out since no one else at my flying field knew how to fly a
Bob Aberle
F r e q u e n t l y A s k e d Q u e s t i o n s
E-mail: [email protected]
The control-function labels have been rearranged to illustrate
how a Mode I control-stick configuration would look.
Bob’s trusty 12-year-old Airtronics Vision RC transmitter
employs popular Mode II control-stick configuration.
Bob’s only remaining single-stick RC transmitter: an Airtronics
Championship Series dating back to the mid-1980s.
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:26 pm Page 72
74 MODEL AVIATION
single-stick transmitter. The single-stick
transmitter’s popularity ultimately
diminished, and the cost of the complicated
control stick made the prices rise. I still
own a single-stick transmitter, an
Airtronics brand, but seldom use it
anymore.
Q32: “My RC system instruction book
describes a simulated ground range check
that you perform with the transmitter
antenna fully retracted or at least down to
the bottom section. But I have had local
fliers indicate that operating the transmitter
in that manner could damage the internal
circuits. What is your advice on this?”
A32: Retracting the transmitter antenna
will greatly reduce the power output. This
condition provides for a convenient RCsystem
range-verification test. The
manufacturers advise you to operate your
receiver (inside the model) and walk away
from it holding your transmitter with the
collapsed antenna. While you do this, you
continuously operate one control surface.
If you can obtain solid control for 50-
100 feet, the assumption is that you will
have normal radio range when you fully
extend the transmitter’s antenna. This test
is simple to do and takes little of your time.
It also enables you to run the test close in
rather than walk a half mile away.
Running a range test such as this with
the antenna fully or partially retracted is
okay because you are doing it for only a
few minutes. But here is where a problem
can result. Let’s say you don’t have a
battery discharger and want to take the
battery down to cycle it. You turn on the
transmitter in your shop, with the antenna
collapsed, and walk away, leaving it
operating for several hours.
First, you shouldn’t be operating the
transmitter “in the blind.” Even with the
FMA Direct T-80RF transmitter with
antenna retracted/collapsed as far as it
will go into case, as it should be during
radio-range verification test.
Small GWS motor attached to test stand. Bob can connect battery to digital meter and
then to motor. After running motor, he can compute its expected run time.
Close up of how Bob attaches motors to test stand with nylon ties. Limit bench-testing
these motors to time it takes to read current from meter screen.
This is one of the many home-built experimental brushless motors Phil Smith has
designed. He is willing to share his development work with others.
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:27 pm Page 74
antenna collapsed and the signal reduced, it is
still broadcasting a signal. Second, and even
more important, is that with the antenna
collapsed, your transmitter output circuit is
now out of tune. As such, the output current
could go way up and the output stage
transistor(s) can easily burn out.
Those are reasons why you should only
operate your RC transmitter with the antenna
collapsed for a short test period!
Q33: This is also about leaving something on
or running, but in this case it is a motor. A
local electric-power expert told a reader not
to run his motor for long periods of time on a
bench test stand to determine run time on a
particular battery pack. The reader wants to
know if this is good advice and an alternative
to estimating motor run time if it is.
A33: The expert in this case is positively
correct! Your motor depends on air passing
over it to keep the temperature down. When
you run the motor on a test stand indoors, all
you get is the propeller wash for cooling, and
that isn’t enough.
This situation was bad enough when we
used Ni-Cd or NiMH batteries that were
capable of seven-, eight-, and 10-minute
motor runs, but the new Li-Poly batteries
have run times exceeding 30 minutes. You
could literally cook some motors in that
length of time. So what is the alternative?
If you have an AstroFlight digital meter,
you can measure the motor current; with that
information, you can make a simple
calculation that will approximate your motor
run time.
To do this, mount your motor on a simple
test stand. Install a propeller that is the size
you plan to use on your model. Charge the
battery pack you plan on using. Run the
battery into the right side of the AstroFlight
meter. At that point the LCD screen on the
meter will light up. Plug the lead coming off
the left side of the meter into your motor. The
ESC isn’t needed for this check. As soon as
you make the connection to the motor, it will
start running. Observe the motor current (in
amps!) and write it down.
Disconnect the cables at this point; you
are finished with the motor and battery.
Recording the current reading should only
take you a few seconds, and that won’t hurt
your motor.
Multiply your battery capacity, expressed
in amp-hours, by 60. If your battery is rated
at 340 mAh, that’s the same as 0.340 amphour.
Multiply 0.340 by 60 to arrive at 20.4.
Divide that number by your motor current,
which in this case was 2.5 amps; 20.4 divided
by 2.5 equals 8.16 minutes.
Figure that your motor, propeller, and
battery combination will run for roughly
eight minutes in this case. The calculation is
simple, and you don’t have to burn your
motor out in the process.
Q36: “I’m more of an experimenter than an
RC flier. I’ve been very interested in the
continual development of the highly efficient
brushless electric motors. I was wondering if
you might do an article on building your own
brushless motor.”
A36: The reader is correct in stating that
brushless-motor development has come a
long way since Aveox introduced the first
ones for our hobby use in 1990. There are
now at least a dozen companies making these
motors in all sizes, from quarter-scale model
power all the way down to parking lot flyers.
Building your own brushless motor could
prove to be a considerable challenge—even
for a person with excellent machine-shop
facilities. An article on this subject would
only be of interest to a handful of modelers at
this point in time, but I encourage you to
pursue your efforts in this regard.
A good friend of mine—Phil Smith of
Adrian, Michigan—has been developing his
own brushless motors for the past half dozen
years. During that time his motors have
improved tremendously. He does this for his
own enjoyment and has no desire to make
production brushless motors.
Phil has indicated to me that he would be
happy to communicate with anyone who is
interested in his series of experiments and his
progress to date. You can reach him via Email
at [email protected].
He asks that you provide your name,
telephone number, and time of day that you
would prefer to accept a call. You can’t do
better than that, but please contact Phil only if
you are serious about this subject. MA
76 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:27 pm Page 76
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/08
Page Numbers: 72,74,76
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/08
Page Numbers: 72,74,76
72 MODEL AVIATION
THIS IS THE fourth monthly column in which I provide you with
the best possible answers to questions readers have written or Emailed
to me. Each set of questions and answers is given a
sequential number for identification purposes. Because publication
space is limited, the questions featured here and spillover material
will be posted on the AMA Web site. Let’s get started!
Q31: “I have seen references to RC transmitters that operate on
Mode II and Mode I. What are they referring to?”
A31: They are referring to the transmitter’s control-stick
configuration. The majority of RC transmitters flown in the US
today employ what we call the “Mode II” control-stick
configuration. This is what you will see in use at most local flying
fields throughout the country.
In the Mode II arrangement, the right-side, dual-axis control
stick provides for aileron (side-to-side stick motion) and elevator
(up-and-down stick motion). The left stick assembly provides
rudder control (side-to-side stick motion) while the throttle control
stick moves up and down. The spring return is removed from the
throttle stick and a detent device is employed so that the throttle
remains where you set it.
Present-day RC manufacturers have told me that 8%-10% of the
RC modelers in the US still use the less-common Mode I controlstick
configuration. With this arrangement, the right-side transmitter
control-stick assembly provides aileron and throttle control, and the
left stick assembly controls the elevator and rudder.
The idea behind this is to separate the two basic flight controls—
ailerons and elevator—so that the right hand operates the ailerons
and the left hand controls the elevator. I understand that the Mode I
control-stick configuration is more popular throughout Europe and
the Far East. I guess it depends on what you get used to.
Through the years, several modelers have asked me to help them
fly with a Mode I transmitter, and believe me, it took all my
concentration to handle it. Many current RC transmitters can be
configured to the Mode I setup, although the conversion usually
entails sending the transmitter back to the factory. As a minimum,
the throttle detent must be moved from the left to the right controlstick
assembly.
Phil Kraft—Kraft Systems founder and national and international
RC Aerobatics champion—always flew with the Mode I stick
configuration. The choice is yours, but it is better to stick with the
majority, especially when you are a beginner and must seek help
from other pilots who will most likely be Mode II fliers.
Years ago, there was another popular RC transmitter which
provided full four-channel control from a single three-axis control
stick. I flew that type of system for more than 20 years, until it
finally became extinct.
With the single-stick transmitter, you held the case with your left
hand, sort of cradling it. You gripped the control stick with your
right hand. A side-to-side motion controlled the ailerons, an up-anddown
motion operated the elevator, and if you rotated the entire
control stick at the same time, you obtained rudder control. Your
left hand’s index finger operated a throttle lever on the side of the
transmitter’s case.
I felt incredibly comfortable with this arrangement, but I was the
odd man out since no one else at my flying field knew how to fly a
Bob Aberle
F r e q u e n t l y A s k e d Q u e s t i o n s
E-mail: [email protected]
The control-function labels have been rearranged to illustrate
how a Mode I control-stick configuration would look.
Bob’s trusty 12-year-old Airtronics Vision RC transmitter
employs popular Mode II control-stick configuration.
Bob’s only remaining single-stick RC transmitter: an Airtronics
Championship Series dating back to the mid-1980s.
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:26 pm Page 72
74 MODEL AVIATION
single-stick transmitter. The single-stick
transmitter’s popularity ultimately
diminished, and the cost of the complicated
control stick made the prices rise. I still
own a single-stick transmitter, an
Airtronics brand, but seldom use it
anymore.
Q32: “My RC system instruction book
describes a simulated ground range check
that you perform with the transmitter
antenna fully retracted or at least down to
the bottom section. But I have had local
fliers indicate that operating the transmitter
in that manner could damage the internal
circuits. What is your advice on this?”
A32: Retracting the transmitter antenna
will greatly reduce the power output. This
condition provides for a convenient RCsystem
range-verification test. The
manufacturers advise you to operate your
receiver (inside the model) and walk away
from it holding your transmitter with the
collapsed antenna. While you do this, you
continuously operate one control surface.
If you can obtain solid control for 50-
100 feet, the assumption is that you will
have normal radio range when you fully
extend the transmitter’s antenna. This test
is simple to do and takes little of your time.
It also enables you to run the test close in
rather than walk a half mile away.
Running a range test such as this with
the antenna fully or partially retracted is
okay because you are doing it for only a
few minutes. But here is where a problem
can result. Let’s say you don’t have a
battery discharger and want to take the
battery down to cycle it. You turn on the
transmitter in your shop, with the antenna
collapsed, and walk away, leaving it
operating for several hours.
First, you shouldn’t be operating the
transmitter “in the blind.” Even with the
FMA Direct T-80RF transmitter with
antenna retracted/collapsed as far as it
will go into case, as it should be during
radio-range verification test.
Small GWS motor attached to test stand. Bob can connect battery to digital meter and
then to motor. After running motor, he can compute its expected run time.
Close up of how Bob attaches motors to test stand with nylon ties. Limit bench-testing
these motors to time it takes to read current from meter screen.
This is one of the many home-built experimental brushless motors Phil Smith has
designed. He is willing to share his development work with others.
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:27 pm Page 74
antenna collapsed and the signal reduced, it is
still broadcasting a signal. Second, and even
more important, is that with the antenna
collapsed, your transmitter output circuit is
now out of tune. As such, the output current
could go way up and the output stage
transistor(s) can easily burn out.
Those are reasons why you should only
operate your RC transmitter with the antenna
collapsed for a short test period!
Q33: This is also about leaving something on
or running, but in this case it is a motor. A
local electric-power expert told a reader not
to run his motor for long periods of time on a
bench test stand to determine run time on a
particular battery pack. The reader wants to
know if this is good advice and an alternative
to estimating motor run time if it is.
A33: The expert in this case is positively
correct! Your motor depends on air passing
over it to keep the temperature down. When
you run the motor on a test stand indoors, all
you get is the propeller wash for cooling, and
that isn’t enough.
This situation was bad enough when we
used Ni-Cd or NiMH batteries that were
capable of seven-, eight-, and 10-minute
motor runs, but the new Li-Poly batteries
have run times exceeding 30 minutes. You
could literally cook some motors in that
length of time. So what is the alternative?
If you have an AstroFlight digital meter,
you can measure the motor current; with that
information, you can make a simple
calculation that will approximate your motor
run time.
To do this, mount your motor on a simple
test stand. Install a propeller that is the size
you plan to use on your model. Charge the
battery pack you plan on using. Run the
battery into the right side of the AstroFlight
meter. At that point the LCD screen on the
meter will light up. Plug the lead coming off
the left side of the meter into your motor. The
ESC isn’t needed for this check. As soon as
you make the connection to the motor, it will
start running. Observe the motor current (in
amps!) and write it down.
Disconnect the cables at this point; you
are finished with the motor and battery.
Recording the current reading should only
take you a few seconds, and that won’t hurt
your motor.
Multiply your battery capacity, expressed
in amp-hours, by 60. If your battery is rated
at 340 mAh, that’s the same as 0.340 amphour.
Multiply 0.340 by 60 to arrive at 20.4.
Divide that number by your motor current,
which in this case was 2.5 amps; 20.4 divided
by 2.5 equals 8.16 minutes.
Figure that your motor, propeller, and
battery combination will run for roughly
eight minutes in this case. The calculation is
simple, and you don’t have to burn your
motor out in the process.
Q36: “I’m more of an experimenter than an
RC flier. I’ve been very interested in the
continual development of the highly efficient
brushless electric motors. I was wondering if
you might do an article on building your own
brushless motor.”
A36: The reader is correct in stating that
brushless-motor development has come a
long way since Aveox introduced the first
ones for our hobby use in 1990. There are
now at least a dozen companies making these
motors in all sizes, from quarter-scale model
power all the way down to parking lot flyers.
Building your own brushless motor could
prove to be a considerable challenge—even
for a person with excellent machine-shop
facilities. An article on this subject would
only be of interest to a handful of modelers at
this point in time, but I encourage you to
pursue your efforts in this regard.
A good friend of mine—Phil Smith of
Adrian, Michigan—has been developing his
own brushless motors for the past half dozen
years. During that time his motors have
improved tremendously. He does this for his
own enjoyment and has no desire to make
production brushless motors.
Phil has indicated to me that he would be
happy to communicate with anyone who is
interested in his series of experiments and his
progress to date. You can reach him via Email
at [email protected].
He asks that you provide your name,
telephone number, and time of day that you
would prefer to accept a call. You can’t do
better than that, but please contact Phil only if
you are serious about this subject. MA
76 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:27 pm Page 76
Edition: Model Aviation - 2004/08
Page Numbers: 72,74,76
72 MODEL AVIATION
THIS IS THE fourth monthly column in which I provide you with
the best possible answers to questions readers have written or Emailed
to me. Each set of questions and answers is given a
sequential number for identification purposes. Because publication
space is limited, the questions featured here and spillover material
will be posted on the AMA Web site. Let’s get started!
Q31: “I have seen references to RC transmitters that operate on
Mode II and Mode I. What are they referring to?”
A31: They are referring to the transmitter’s control-stick
configuration. The majority of RC transmitters flown in the US
today employ what we call the “Mode II” control-stick
configuration. This is what you will see in use at most local flying
fields throughout the country.
In the Mode II arrangement, the right-side, dual-axis control
stick provides for aileron (side-to-side stick motion) and elevator
(up-and-down stick motion). The left stick assembly provides
rudder control (side-to-side stick motion) while the throttle control
stick moves up and down. The spring return is removed from the
throttle stick and a detent device is employed so that the throttle
remains where you set it.
Present-day RC manufacturers have told me that 8%-10% of the
RC modelers in the US still use the less-common Mode I controlstick
configuration. With this arrangement, the right-side transmitter
control-stick assembly provides aileron and throttle control, and the
left stick assembly controls the elevator and rudder.
The idea behind this is to separate the two basic flight controls—
ailerons and elevator—so that the right hand operates the ailerons
and the left hand controls the elevator. I understand that the Mode I
control-stick configuration is more popular throughout Europe and
the Far East. I guess it depends on what you get used to.
Through the years, several modelers have asked me to help them
fly with a Mode I transmitter, and believe me, it took all my
concentration to handle it. Many current RC transmitters can be
configured to the Mode I setup, although the conversion usually
entails sending the transmitter back to the factory. As a minimum,
the throttle detent must be moved from the left to the right controlstick
assembly.
Phil Kraft—Kraft Systems founder and national and international
RC Aerobatics champion—always flew with the Mode I stick
configuration. The choice is yours, but it is better to stick with the
majority, especially when you are a beginner and must seek help
from other pilots who will most likely be Mode II fliers.
Years ago, there was another popular RC transmitter which
provided full four-channel control from a single three-axis control
stick. I flew that type of system for more than 20 years, until it
finally became extinct.
With the single-stick transmitter, you held the case with your left
hand, sort of cradling it. You gripped the control stick with your
right hand. A side-to-side motion controlled the ailerons, an up-anddown
motion operated the elevator, and if you rotated the entire
control stick at the same time, you obtained rudder control. Your
left hand’s index finger operated a throttle lever on the side of the
transmitter’s case.
I felt incredibly comfortable with this arrangement, but I was the
odd man out since no one else at my flying field knew how to fly a
Bob Aberle
F r e q u e n t l y A s k e d Q u e s t i o n s
E-mail: [email protected]
The control-function labels have been rearranged to illustrate
how a Mode I control-stick configuration would look.
Bob’s trusty 12-year-old Airtronics Vision RC transmitter
employs popular Mode II control-stick configuration.
Bob’s only remaining single-stick RC transmitter: an Airtronics
Championship Series dating back to the mid-1980s.
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:26 pm Page 72
74 MODEL AVIATION
single-stick transmitter. The single-stick
transmitter’s popularity ultimately
diminished, and the cost of the complicated
control stick made the prices rise. I still
own a single-stick transmitter, an
Airtronics brand, but seldom use it
anymore.
Q32: “My RC system instruction book
describes a simulated ground range check
that you perform with the transmitter
antenna fully retracted or at least down to
the bottom section. But I have had local
fliers indicate that operating the transmitter
in that manner could damage the internal
circuits. What is your advice on this?”
A32: Retracting the transmitter antenna
will greatly reduce the power output. This
condition provides for a convenient RCsystem
range-verification test. The
manufacturers advise you to operate your
receiver (inside the model) and walk away
from it holding your transmitter with the
collapsed antenna. While you do this, you
continuously operate one control surface.
If you can obtain solid control for 50-
100 feet, the assumption is that you will
have normal radio range when you fully
extend the transmitter’s antenna. This test
is simple to do and takes little of your time.
It also enables you to run the test close in
rather than walk a half mile away.
Running a range test such as this with
the antenna fully or partially retracted is
okay because you are doing it for only a
few minutes. But here is where a problem
can result. Let’s say you don’t have a
battery discharger and want to take the
battery down to cycle it. You turn on the
transmitter in your shop, with the antenna
collapsed, and walk away, leaving it
operating for several hours.
First, you shouldn’t be operating the
transmitter “in the blind.” Even with the
FMA Direct T-80RF transmitter with
antenna retracted/collapsed as far as it
will go into case, as it should be during
radio-range verification test.
Small GWS motor attached to test stand. Bob can connect battery to digital meter and
then to motor. After running motor, he can compute its expected run time.
Close up of how Bob attaches motors to test stand with nylon ties. Limit bench-testing
these motors to time it takes to read current from meter screen.
This is one of the many home-built experimental brushless motors Phil Smith has
designed. He is willing to share his development work with others.
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:27 pm Page 74
antenna collapsed and the signal reduced, it is
still broadcasting a signal. Second, and even
more important, is that with the antenna
collapsed, your transmitter output circuit is
now out of tune. As such, the output current
could go way up and the output stage
transistor(s) can easily burn out.
Those are reasons why you should only
operate your RC transmitter with the antenna
collapsed for a short test period!
Q33: This is also about leaving something on
or running, but in this case it is a motor. A
local electric-power expert told a reader not
to run his motor for long periods of time on a
bench test stand to determine run time on a
particular battery pack. The reader wants to
know if this is good advice and an alternative
to estimating motor run time if it is.
A33: The expert in this case is positively
correct! Your motor depends on air passing
over it to keep the temperature down. When
you run the motor on a test stand indoors, all
you get is the propeller wash for cooling, and
that isn’t enough.
This situation was bad enough when we
used Ni-Cd or NiMH batteries that were
capable of seven-, eight-, and 10-minute
motor runs, but the new Li-Poly batteries
have run times exceeding 30 minutes. You
could literally cook some motors in that
length of time. So what is the alternative?
If you have an AstroFlight digital meter,
you can measure the motor current; with that
information, you can make a simple
calculation that will approximate your motor
run time.
To do this, mount your motor on a simple
test stand. Install a propeller that is the size
you plan to use on your model. Charge the
battery pack you plan on using. Run the
battery into the right side of the AstroFlight
meter. At that point the LCD screen on the
meter will light up. Plug the lead coming off
the left side of the meter into your motor. The
ESC isn’t needed for this check. As soon as
you make the connection to the motor, it will
start running. Observe the motor current (in
amps!) and write it down.
Disconnect the cables at this point; you
are finished with the motor and battery.
Recording the current reading should only
take you a few seconds, and that won’t hurt
your motor.
Multiply your battery capacity, expressed
in amp-hours, by 60. If your battery is rated
at 340 mAh, that’s the same as 0.340 amphour.
Multiply 0.340 by 60 to arrive at 20.4.
Divide that number by your motor current,
which in this case was 2.5 amps; 20.4 divided
by 2.5 equals 8.16 minutes.
Figure that your motor, propeller, and
battery combination will run for roughly
eight minutes in this case. The calculation is
simple, and you don’t have to burn your
motor out in the process.
Q36: “I’m more of an experimenter than an
RC flier. I’ve been very interested in the
continual development of the highly efficient
brushless electric motors. I was wondering if
you might do an article on building your own
brushless motor.”
A36: The reader is correct in stating that
brushless-motor development has come a
long way since Aveox introduced the first
ones for our hobby use in 1990. There are
now at least a dozen companies making these
motors in all sizes, from quarter-scale model
power all the way down to parking lot flyers.
Building your own brushless motor could
prove to be a considerable challenge—even
for a person with excellent machine-shop
facilities. An article on this subject would
only be of interest to a handful of modelers at
this point in time, but I encourage you to
pursue your efforts in this regard.
A good friend of mine—Phil Smith of
Adrian, Michigan—has been developing his
own brushless motors for the past half dozen
years. During that time his motors have
improved tremendously. He does this for his
own enjoyment and has no desire to make
production brushless motors.
Phil has indicated to me that he would be
happy to communicate with anyone who is
interested in his series of experiments and his
progress to date. You can reach him via Email
at [email protected].
He asks that you provide your name,
telephone number, and time of day that you
would prefer to accept a call. You can’t do
better than that, but please contact Phil only if
you are serious about this subject. MA
76 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:27 pm Page 76
