Also included in this column:
• The How High altimeter’s
See How readout device
• Soldering: suggested tools
and materials
• Web sites and forums
• RC transmitter battery
THIS IS THE 37th monthly column in
which I try to give you the best possible
answers to questions you have written or Emailed
to me. Each new inquiry is given a
sequential number for future reference.
Many questions and answers have been
posted to the AMA Web site at www.model
aircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp. Unfortunately
that posting stopped in August 2005 and will
not continue until this section of the AMA
Web site is revamped. In the meantime, if
you can’t find the subject matter you are
interested in, drop me an E-mail or letter
and I will try to assist you.
Q285: “I heard from a local modeling
friend recently that you had authored a
new guide intended for the RC beginner.
This friend had been given a ‘beta test’
copy to review and comment on.
“My local club has always found it
hard to get a newcomer started with the
RC flight learning process. So I’m most
interested in what you may soon have to
offer.”
A285: This effort started last winter while
I was vacationing in Florida but didn’t
have access to my shop/studio or my
model aircraft. I can never be away from
my hobby that long, so I was naturally
looking for something to do.
AMA Director of Publications Rob
Kurek had mentioned that he obtained a
“quick-start guide” for a sport in which he
wanted to participate. I immediately
thought about the application for RC
model aircraft and spent the remainder of
the winter drafting an AMA quick-start
guide.
My choice for that first-time trainer
aircraft was the popular Hitec/Multiplex
EasyStar, which is available as an RTF or
ARF. After returning to my Long Island, New
York, home in the spring, I took a series of
photos to go along with my proposed text.
The entire guide concept involves
getting you to a flying field for the first
time, then it suggests a typical trainer
aircraft. Finally it takes you through all the
necessary steps to make your first flights!
MA Advertising Representative Mark
Lanterman edited my draft text and inserted
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
all the photos in the correct places. He then
copied the newly created AMA R/C Model
Aircraft Quick-Start Guide onto CD-ROMs
that can be easily marketed to modelers,
clubs, local hobby dealers, and members of
the hobby industry.
It is also hoped that these disc copies get
to people outside our hobby who always
wanted to try flying RC models but never
knew how to go about it.
This column is being written in late
December 2006. When you read it the first
copies of the R/C Model Aircraft Quick-
Start Guide will have been distributed at the
The new AMA quick-start guide is
intended for the RC beginner. It is by
author and MA Technical Editor Bob
Aberle.
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
Bob used the quick-start guide with his grandchildren Allison (10) and Hayden (8), shown
with EasyStar trainer used in the guide. Both maintained altitude for several minutes
without help after only three flights.
April 2007 73
Left: Winged Shadow Systems’ How High onboard altimeter (L)
reads peak altitude your model reaches after each flight. The new
See How (R) reads flashing LED count and displays altitude as a
digital number on LCD screen.
One of many battery testers on the market that can determine
receiver and transmitter battery-pack capacity. Many such devices
are offered and prices vary. Make sure you test batteries regularly!
Don’t assume that because they are new they are good!
Basic tools required to do a good soldering job. Bob
explains that the right-size solder and proper soldering
flux can help make the best solder joints.
Above: After a flight, hold See How’s
sensor up to the How High LED that
protrudes from the fuselage side. The
altitude your model reached will be
displayed in seconds (971 feet shown). You
can also “capture” as many as nine
altitude readings in one flight using your
RC system as the “trigger.”
2007 AMA Convention in Ontario,
California, in early January.
An announcement concerning this guide
will have already been posted on the AMA
Web site home page, and Bob Hunt will
have mentioned it in his “Modeling Spoken
Here” column in the March 2007 MA.
The details of how these CDs can be
obtained have not been finalized yet, but
I’m sure they will be worked out by the
time you read this. A good place to start
would be AMA’s museum store at the
Headquarters in Muncie, Indiana. There is
also an announcement about the guide on
AMA’s online beginners’ magazine, Sport
Aviator (at www.masportaviator.com).
I hope this info will steer you in the
right direction. Once you get a copy of the
guide, your comments would be valued!
Q286: “I read your review of the Winged
Shadow Systems How High altimeter in the
‘Worth a Closer Look’ section of the
September 2006 MA (page 15). I like this
device and the price is right.
“But I found that finger-waving
operating step, along with counting a
flashing LED, was a tedious process after
each flight to determine the peak altitude
of my aircraft. Is there any easier way to
do this?”
A286: I agree with you; the readout technique
for the How High altimeter isn’t easy. But
David West of Winged Shadow Systems has
come up with a new device called the “See
How.” It will quickly count the flashes of
your How High altimeter’s LED and read it
out as a digital number on a small LCD.
The See How resembles an automobile
alarm-setting device in size and shape. It
sells for $34.90 plus shipping. You can
obtain details and a downloadable
instruction sheet at http://rcreporter.com/
seehow.html.
This unit will display the peak altitude
your aircraft reaches without the need for
“finger waving” or LED flash counting.
The See How stays on the ground. When
your aircraft lands, hold the device’s
sensor close to the flashing LED on the
How High. Within a second or two the
LED flashes are read and you can see the
altitude on the LCD screen in digital
format (for instance, “1023” equals 1,023
feet).
Besides supplying the peak altitude,
you can capture up to a total of nine
altitude readings during a flight. Each
capture point can then be read out
separately after landing. It’s an interesting
concept, but, most important, the See How
makes altitude determination a snap!
Applicationwise the How High altimeter
can be used without an RC system to check
on peak altitude of FF, sailplane, and
rubber-powered models. All you need is a
tine Li-Poly battery (like a single-cell 130
mAh) to power it. You won’t be able to use
the “Capture” features without RC, but
peak-altitude recording is no problem.
Also consider using the How High to
check on your radio system’s overhead
range. It might surprise you that when your
aircraft is almost out of sight, it is at an
altitude of only 500-600 feet. Try it!
Q287: “I have been trying to improve my
soldering skills, but unfortunately don’t
seem to get past the basics.
“My common sense tells me that heavy
gauge wire needs a higher wattage
soldering iron than lighter gauge wire. I’m
also sure that the type and size of the solder
itself is another important consideration. I
wonder about the use of a flux to make the
solder flow more freely, producing the
proper joint.
“Can you set me in the right direction?”
A287: I have used Ungar soldering irons
and those sold by RadioShack for many
years. Both generally have a handle and a
heating element.
For most 16-gauge and lighter wire I use
a heating element of approximately 15-25
watts. Heavier-gauge wire, such as 14 down
to 10, requires a much hotter element such
as 40-50 watts.
I always use a multicore-type solder that
has a built-in flux inside the core, or center.
I also select a thin-gauge (diameter) solder
so it melts faster under normal heat levels.
RadioShack makes a .032-inch-diameter
solder I like very much. It is identified as
catalog numbers 64-017, 64-005, and 64-
009, depending on the amount of solder on
the roll.
Even though this solder has its own flux,
I generally add more flux of the paste
variety (RadioShack item 64-022). This is a
rosin soldering flux and the only type you
should use for electrical wiring. Never use
acid flux as sold in plumbing-supply stores
since it is highly corrosive.
I never use a soldering gun. This is the
type that heats up almost instantly when you
pull a trigger. The problem with it is that
depending on your patience the heat at the
tip can vary and often produces cold solder
joints.
The proof of the job when soldering is to
end up with a shiny, silverlike solder joint.
A gray-colored, dull-looking solder joint
did not get enough heat; that is what we call
a “cold solder joint.” It is to be avoided
because the joint can quickly separate,
causing an open circuit or at least an
intermittent connection.
Q288: “I had heard that a new forum type
Web site was recently introduced by Air
Age. Can you steer me to that Web site?”
A288: My understanding is that the Web
site you are referring to—Radio Control
Zone—has been up and working for almost
a year. It is sponsored by Air Age Media,
which publishes Model Airplane News and
Backyard Flyer magazines (and others).
Only recently has this forum been
advertised. You can find it at www.radio
controlzone.com.
The site is divided into major categories
of aircraft, cars, and boats. Within the
airplane category are many subcategories
such as “Model Aerodynamics,” “Park and
Backyard Flyers,” “Post Your Project
Photos,” “Sailplanes,” and many more.
There are also “Buy/Sell/Trade” and “Items
Wanted” sections. This forum is definitely
worth looking into.
Q289: “I fly electric-powered model
aircraft and recently suffered a bad crash.
The aftermath of that flight indicated that
my RC transmitter battery pack had died
early into my flying session.
“I later tested that pack and discovered
that it had a bad cell. What can I do to
prevent this problem?”
A289: I’ve answered this kind of question
many times, but the problem will never go
away. The fact that you tested your
transmitter battery pack after the crash tells
me that you have the equipment and
experience to test that kind of pack.
So your problem is that you went on
flying month after month or year after year
and never bothered testing the battery
pack’s capacity until you suffered a crash!
When you fly electric power, if the model
can’t get off the ground the airborne
battery either has a problem or wasn’t
charged.
You can correct that situation without a
resulting crash! Of course if you must use a
separate receiver/servo battery in your
aircraft, it must be charged and checked
just like your RC transmitter.
Your RC transmitter usually has a
digital voltmeter that indicates the voltage
on an LCD screen, but it doesn’t tell you
capacity. If your transmitter voltmeter
drops off quickly after several flights, that
certainly raises a flag!
If your transmitter uses AA-size
alkaline cells and the LED indicator
changes from green to amber, that means
caution. Don’t wait for the red LED to
glow and change the cells right away.
There are many good RC transmitter
battery-pack testers on the market for less
than $100, one of which is the West
Mountain Radio CBA II, which you can
find at www.westmountainradio.com/
CBA.htm. Another good tester is the
Sirius Electronics Super Test Precision
Battery Tester ($69.95). You can learn
more about it at www.siriuselectronics.com/
index.php?main_page=product_info&c
Path=1&products_id=120.
Hobbico offers the Accu-Cycle Pro-Series
Elite, which covers charging and discharging
battery-test functions. You can find it at
www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hs~hcap
0280.html.
Keep in mind that the charging circuits
inside most RC transmitters employ a
blocking diode, which means you won’t be
able to read voltage through the charging
jack. That usually means you must remove
the battery pack and hook it up directly to the
tester using an adapter cable that is available
from the RC manufacturer or an accessory
supplier such as Radical RC, which you can
find at www.radicalrc.com. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/04
Page Numbers: 72,73,74,76
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/04
Page Numbers: 72,73,74,76
Also included in this column:
• The How High altimeter’s
See How readout device
• Soldering: suggested tools
and materials
• Web sites and forums
• RC transmitter battery
THIS IS THE 37th monthly column in
which I try to give you the best possible
answers to questions you have written or Emailed
to me. Each new inquiry is given a
sequential number for future reference.
Many questions and answers have been
posted to the AMA Web site at www.model
aircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp. Unfortunately
that posting stopped in August 2005 and will
not continue until this section of the AMA
Web site is revamped. In the meantime, if
you can’t find the subject matter you are
interested in, drop me an E-mail or letter
and I will try to assist you.
Q285: “I heard from a local modeling
friend recently that you had authored a
new guide intended for the RC beginner.
This friend had been given a ‘beta test’
copy to review and comment on.
“My local club has always found it
hard to get a newcomer started with the
RC flight learning process. So I’m most
interested in what you may soon have to
offer.”
A285: This effort started last winter while
I was vacationing in Florida but didn’t
have access to my shop/studio or my
model aircraft. I can never be away from
my hobby that long, so I was naturally
looking for something to do.
AMA Director of Publications Rob
Kurek had mentioned that he obtained a
“quick-start guide” for a sport in which he
wanted to participate. I immediately
thought about the application for RC
model aircraft and spent the remainder of
the winter drafting an AMA quick-start
guide.
My choice for that first-time trainer
aircraft was the popular Hitec/Multiplex
EasyStar, which is available as an RTF or
ARF. After returning to my Long Island, New
York, home in the spring, I took a series of
photos to go along with my proposed text.
The entire guide concept involves
getting you to a flying field for the first
time, then it suggests a typical trainer
aircraft. Finally it takes you through all the
necessary steps to make your first flights!
MA Advertising Representative Mark
Lanterman edited my draft text and inserted
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
all the photos in the correct places. He then
copied the newly created AMA R/C Model
Aircraft Quick-Start Guide onto CD-ROMs
that can be easily marketed to modelers,
clubs, local hobby dealers, and members of
the hobby industry.
It is also hoped that these disc copies get
to people outside our hobby who always
wanted to try flying RC models but never
knew how to go about it.
This column is being written in late
December 2006. When you read it the first
copies of the R/C Model Aircraft Quick-
Start Guide will have been distributed at the
The new AMA quick-start guide is
intended for the RC beginner. It is by
author and MA Technical Editor Bob
Aberle.
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
Bob used the quick-start guide with his grandchildren Allison (10) and Hayden (8), shown
with EasyStar trainer used in the guide. Both maintained altitude for several minutes
without help after only three flights.
April 2007 73
Left: Winged Shadow Systems’ How High onboard altimeter (L)
reads peak altitude your model reaches after each flight. The new
See How (R) reads flashing LED count and displays altitude as a
digital number on LCD screen.
One of many battery testers on the market that can determine
receiver and transmitter battery-pack capacity. Many such devices
are offered and prices vary. Make sure you test batteries regularly!
Don’t assume that because they are new they are good!
Basic tools required to do a good soldering job. Bob
explains that the right-size solder and proper soldering
flux can help make the best solder joints.
Above: After a flight, hold See How’s
sensor up to the How High LED that
protrudes from the fuselage side. The
altitude your model reached will be
displayed in seconds (971 feet shown). You
can also “capture” as many as nine
altitude readings in one flight using your
RC system as the “trigger.”
2007 AMA Convention in Ontario,
California, in early January.
An announcement concerning this guide
will have already been posted on the AMA
Web site home page, and Bob Hunt will
have mentioned it in his “Modeling Spoken
Here” column in the March 2007 MA.
The details of how these CDs can be
obtained have not been finalized yet, but
I’m sure they will be worked out by the
time you read this. A good place to start
would be AMA’s museum store at the
Headquarters in Muncie, Indiana. There is
also an announcement about the guide on
AMA’s online beginners’ magazine, Sport
Aviator (at www.masportaviator.com).
I hope this info will steer you in the
right direction. Once you get a copy of the
guide, your comments would be valued!
Q286: “I read your review of the Winged
Shadow Systems How High altimeter in the
‘Worth a Closer Look’ section of the
September 2006 MA (page 15). I like this
device and the price is right.
“But I found that finger-waving
operating step, along with counting a
flashing LED, was a tedious process after
each flight to determine the peak altitude
of my aircraft. Is there any easier way to
do this?”
A286: I agree with you; the readout technique
for the How High altimeter isn’t easy. But
David West of Winged Shadow Systems has
come up with a new device called the “See
How.” It will quickly count the flashes of
your How High altimeter’s LED and read it
out as a digital number on a small LCD.
The See How resembles an automobile
alarm-setting device in size and shape. It
sells for $34.90 plus shipping. You can
obtain details and a downloadable
instruction sheet at http://rcreporter.com/
seehow.html.
This unit will display the peak altitude
your aircraft reaches without the need for
“finger waving” or LED flash counting.
The See How stays on the ground. When
your aircraft lands, hold the device’s
sensor close to the flashing LED on the
How High. Within a second or two the
LED flashes are read and you can see the
altitude on the LCD screen in digital
format (for instance, “1023” equals 1,023
feet).
Besides supplying the peak altitude,
you can capture up to a total of nine
altitude readings during a flight. Each
capture point can then be read out
separately after landing. It’s an interesting
concept, but, most important, the See How
makes altitude determination a snap!
Applicationwise the How High altimeter
can be used without an RC system to check
on peak altitude of FF, sailplane, and
rubber-powered models. All you need is a
tine Li-Poly battery (like a single-cell 130
mAh) to power it. You won’t be able to use
the “Capture” features without RC, but
peak-altitude recording is no problem.
Also consider using the How High to
check on your radio system’s overhead
range. It might surprise you that when your
aircraft is almost out of sight, it is at an
altitude of only 500-600 feet. Try it!
Q287: “I have been trying to improve my
soldering skills, but unfortunately don’t
seem to get past the basics.
“My common sense tells me that heavy
gauge wire needs a higher wattage
soldering iron than lighter gauge wire. I’m
also sure that the type and size of the solder
itself is another important consideration. I
wonder about the use of a flux to make the
solder flow more freely, producing the
proper joint.
“Can you set me in the right direction?”
A287: I have used Ungar soldering irons
and those sold by RadioShack for many
years. Both generally have a handle and a
heating element.
For most 16-gauge and lighter wire I use
a heating element of approximately 15-25
watts. Heavier-gauge wire, such as 14 down
to 10, requires a much hotter element such
as 40-50 watts.
I always use a multicore-type solder that
has a built-in flux inside the core, or center.
I also select a thin-gauge (diameter) solder
so it melts faster under normal heat levels.
RadioShack makes a .032-inch-diameter
solder I like very much. It is identified as
catalog numbers 64-017, 64-005, and 64-
009, depending on the amount of solder on
the roll.
Even though this solder has its own flux,
I generally add more flux of the paste
variety (RadioShack item 64-022). This is a
rosin soldering flux and the only type you
should use for electrical wiring. Never use
acid flux as sold in plumbing-supply stores
since it is highly corrosive.
I never use a soldering gun. This is the
type that heats up almost instantly when you
pull a trigger. The problem with it is that
depending on your patience the heat at the
tip can vary and often produces cold solder
joints.
The proof of the job when soldering is to
end up with a shiny, silverlike solder joint.
A gray-colored, dull-looking solder joint
did not get enough heat; that is what we call
a “cold solder joint.” It is to be avoided
because the joint can quickly separate,
causing an open circuit or at least an
intermittent connection.
Q288: “I had heard that a new forum type
Web site was recently introduced by Air
Age. Can you steer me to that Web site?”
A288: My understanding is that the Web
site you are referring to—Radio Control
Zone—has been up and working for almost
a year. It is sponsored by Air Age Media,
which publishes Model Airplane News and
Backyard Flyer magazines (and others).
Only recently has this forum been
advertised. You can find it at www.radio
controlzone.com.
The site is divided into major categories
of aircraft, cars, and boats. Within the
airplane category are many subcategories
such as “Model Aerodynamics,” “Park and
Backyard Flyers,” “Post Your Project
Photos,” “Sailplanes,” and many more.
There are also “Buy/Sell/Trade” and “Items
Wanted” sections. This forum is definitely
worth looking into.
Q289: “I fly electric-powered model
aircraft and recently suffered a bad crash.
The aftermath of that flight indicated that
my RC transmitter battery pack had died
early into my flying session.
“I later tested that pack and discovered
that it had a bad cell. What can I do to
prevent this problem?”
A289: I’ve answered this kind of question
many times, but the problem will never go
away. The fact that you tested your
transmitter battery pack after the crash tells
me that you have the equipment and
experience to test that kind of pack.
So your problem is that you went on
flying month after month or year after year
and never bothered testing the battery
pack’s capacity until you suffered a crash!
When you fly electric power, if the model
can’t get off the ground the airborne
battery either has a problem or wasn’t
charged.
You can correct that situation without a
resulting crash! Of course if you must use a
separate receiver/servo battery in your
aircraft, it must be charged and checked
just like your RC transmitter.
Your RC transmitter usually has a
digital voltmeter that indicates the voltage
on an LCD screen, but it doesn’t tell you
capacity. If your transmitter voltmeter
drops off quickly after several flights, that
certainly raises a flag!
If your transmitter uses AA-size
alkaline cells and the LED indicator
changes from green to amber, that means
caution. Don’t wait for the red LED to
glow and change the cells right away.
There are many good RC transmitter
battery-pack testers on the market for less
than $100, one of which is the West
Mountain Radio CBA II, which you can
find at www.westmountainradio.com/
CBA.htm. Another good tester is the
Sirius Electronics Super Test Precision
Battery Tester ($69.95). You can learn
more about it at www.siriuselectronics.com/
index.php?main_page=product_info&c
Path=1&products_id=120.
Hobbico offers the Accu-Cycle Pro-Series
Elite, which covers charging and discharging
battery-test functions. You can find it at
www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hs~hcap
0280.html.
Keep in mind that the charging circuits
inside most RC transmitters employ a
blocking diode, which means you won’t be
able to read voltage through the charging
jack. That usually means you must remove
the battery pack and hook it up directly to the
tester using an adapter cable that is available
from the RC manufacturer or an accessory
supplier such as Radical RC, which you can
find at www.radicalrc.com. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/04
Page Numbers: 72,73,74,76
Also included in this column:
• The How High altimeter’s
See How readout device
• Soldering: suggested tools
and materials
• Web sites and forums
• RC transmitter battery
THIS IS THE 37th monthly column in
which I try to give you the best possible
answers to questions you have written or Emailed
to me. Each new inquiry is given a
sequential number for future reference.
Many questions and answers have been
posted to the AMA Web site at www.model
aircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp. Unfortunately
that posting stopped in August 2005 and will
not continue until this section of the AMA
Web site is revamped. In the meantime, if
you can’t find the subject matter you are
interested in, drop me an E-mail or letter
and I will try to assist you.
Q285: “I heard from a local modeling
friend recently that you had authored a
new guide intended for the RC beginner.
This friend had been given a ‘beta test’
copy to review and comment on.
“My local club has always found it
hard to get a newcomer started with the
RC flight learning process. So I’m most
interested in what you may soon have to
offer.”
A285: This effort started last winter while
I was vacationing in Florida but didn’t
have access to my shop/studio or my
model aircraft. I can never be away from
my hobby that long, so I was naturally
looking for something to do.
AMA Director of Publications Rob
Kurek had mentioned that he obtained a
“quick-start guide” for a sport in which he
wanted to participate. I immediately
thought about the application for RC
model aircraft and spent the remainder of
the winter drafting an AMA quick-start
guide.
My choice for that first-time trainer
aircraft was the popular Hitec/Multiplex
EasyStar, which is available as an RTF or
ARF. After returning to my Long Island, New
York, home in the spring, I took a series of
photos to go along with my proposed text.
The entire guide concept involves
getting you to a flying field for the first
time, then it suggests a typical trainer
aircraft. Finally it takes you through all the
necessary steps to make your first flights!
MA Advertising Representative Mark
Lanterman edited my draft text and inserted
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
all the photos in the correct places. He then
copied the newly created AMA R/C Model
Aircraft Quick-Start Guide onto CD-ROMs
that can be easily marketed to modelers,
clubs, local hobby dealers, and members of
the hobby industry.
It is also hoped that these disc copies get
to people outside our hobby who always
wanted to try flying RC models but never
knew how to go about it.
This column is being written in late
December 2006. When you read it the first
copies of the R/C Model Aircraft Quick-
Start Guide will have been distributed at the
The new AMA quick-start guide is
intended for the RC beginner. It is by
author and MA Technical Editor Bob
Aberle.
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
Bob used the quick-start guide with his grandchildren Allison (10) and Hayden (8), shown
with EasyStar trainer used in the guide. Both maintained altitude for several minutes
without help after only three flights.
April 2007 73
Left: Winged Shadow Systems’ How High onboard altimeter (L)
reads peak altitude your model reaches after each flight. The new
See How (R) reads flashing LED count and displays altitude as a
digital number on LCD screen.
One of many battery testers on the market that can determine
receiver and transmitter battery-pack capacity. Many such devices
are offered and prices vary. Make sure you test batteries regularly!
Don’t assume that because they are new they are good!
Basic tools required to do a good soldering job. Bob
explains that the right-size solder and proper soldering
flux can help make the best solder joints.
Above: After a flight, hold See How’s
sensor up to the How High LED that
protrudes from the fuselage side. The
altitude your model reached will be
displayed in seconds (971 feet shown). You
can also “capture” as many as nine
altitude readings in one flight using your
RC system as the “trigger.”
2007 AMA Convention in Ontario,
California, in early January.
An announcement concerning this guide
will have already been posted on the AMA
Web site home page, and Bob Hunt will
have mentioned it in his “Modeling Spoken
Here” column in the March 2007 MA.
The details of how these CDs can be
obtained have not been finalized yet, but
I’m sure they will be worked out by the
time you read this. A good place to start
would be AMA’s museum store at the
Headquarters in Muncie, Indiana. There is
also an announcement about the guide on
AMA’s online beginners’ magazine, Sport
Aviator (at www.masportaviator.com).
I hope this info will steer you in the
right direction. Once you get a copy of the
guide, your comments would be valued!
Q286: “I read your review of the Winged
Shadow Systems How High altimeter in the
‘Worth a Closer Look’ section of the
September 2006 MA (page 15). I like this
device and the price is right.
“But I found that finger-waving
operating step, along with counting a
flashing LED, was a tedious process after
each flight to determine the peak altitude
of my aircraft. Is there any easier way to
do this?”
A286: I agree with you; the readout technique
for the How High altimeter isn’t easy. But
David West of Winged Shadow Systems has
come up with a new device called the “See
How.” It will quickly count the flashes of
your How High altimeter’s LED and read it
out as a digital number on a small LCD.
The See How resembles an automobile
alarm-setting device in size and shape. It
sells for $34.90 plus shipping. You can
obtain details and a downloadable
instruction sheet at http://rcreporter.com/
seehow.html.
This unit will display the peak altitude
your aircraft reaches without the need for
“finger waving” or LED flash counting.
The See How stays on the ground. When
your aircraft lands, hold the device’s
sensor close to the flashing LED on the
How High. Within a second or two the
LED flashes are read and you can see the
altitude on the LCD screen in digital
format (for instance, “1023” equals 1,023
feet).
Besides supplying the peak altitude,
you can capture up to a total of nine
altitude readings during a flight. Each
capture point can then be read out
separately after landing. It’s an interesting
concept, but, most important, the See How
makes altitude determination a snap!
Applicationwise the How High altimeter
can be used without an RC system to check
on peak altitude of FF, sailplane, and
rubber-powered models. All you need is a
tine Li-Poly battery (like a single-cell 130
mAh) to power it. You won’t be able to use
the “Capture” features without RC, but
peak-altitude recording is no problem.
Also consider using the How High to
check on your radio system’s overhead
range. It might surprise you that when your
aircraft is almost out of sight, it is at an
altitude of only 500-600 feet. Try it!
Q287: “I have been trying to improve my
soldering skills, but unfortunately don’t
seem to get past the basics.
“My common sense tells me that heavy
gauge wire needs a higher wattage
soldering iron than lighter gauge wire. I’m
also sure that the type and size of the solder
itself is another important consideration. I
wonder about the use of a flux to make the
solder flow more freely, producing the
proper joint.
“Can you set me in the right direction?”
A287: I have used Ungar soldering irons
and those sold by RadioShack for many
years. Both generally have a handle and a
heating element.
For most 16-gauge and lighter wire I use
a heating element of approximately 15-25
watts. Heavier-gauge wire, such as 14 down
to 10, requires a much hotter element such
as 40-50 watts.
I always use a multicore-type solder that
has a built-in flux inside the core, or center.
I also select a thin-gauge (diameter) solder
so it melts faster under normal heat levels.
RadioShack makes a .032-inch-diameter
solder I like very much. It is identified as
catalog numbers 64-017, 64-005, and 64-
009, depending on the amount of solder on
the roll.
Even though this solder has its own flux,
I generally add more flux of the paste
variety (RadioShack item 64-022). This is a
rosin soldering flux and the only type you
should use for electrical wiring. Never use
acid flux as sold in plumbing-supply stores
since it is highly corrosive.
I never use a soldering gun. This is the
type that heats up almost instantly when you
pull a trigger. The problem with it is that
depending on your patience the heat at the
tip can vary and often produces cold solder
joints.
The proof of the job when soldering is to
end up with a shiny, silverlike solder joint.
A gray-colored, dull-looking solder joint
did not get enough heat; that is what we call
a “cold solder joint.” It is to be avoided
because the joint can quickly separate,
causing an open circuit or at least an
intermittent connection.
Q288: “I had heard that a new forum type
Web site was recently introduced by Air
Age. Can you steer me to that Web site?”
A288: My understanding is that the Web
site you are referring to—Radio Control
Zone—has been up and working for almost
a year. It is sponsored by Air Age Media,
which publishes Model Airplane News and
Backyard Flyer magazines (and others).
Only recently has this forum been
advertised. You can find it at www.radio
controlzone.com.
The site is divided into major categories
of aircraft, cars, and boats. Within the
airplane category are many subcategories
such as “Model Aerodynamics,” “Park and
Backyard Flyers,” “Post Your Project
Photos,” “Sailplanes,” and many more.
There are also “Buy/Sell/Trade” and “Items
Wanted” sections. This forum is definitely
worth looking into.
Q289: “I fly electric-powered model
aircraft and recently suffered a bad crash.
The aftermath of that flight indicated that
my RC transmitter battery pack had died
early into my flying session.
“I later tested that pack and discovered
that it had a bad cell. What can I do to
prevent this problem?”
A289: I’ve answered this kind of question
many times, but the problem will never go
away. The fact that you tested your
transmitter battery pack after the crash tells
me that you have the equipment and
experience to test that kind of pack.
So your problem is that you went on
flying month after month or year after year
and never bothered testing the battery
pack’s capacity until you suffered a crash!
When you fly electric power, if the model
can’t get off the ground the airborne
battery either has a problem or wasn’t
charged.
You can correct that situation without a
resulting crash! Of course if you must use a
separate receiver/servo battery in your
aircraft, it must be charged and checked
just like your RC transmitter.
Your RC transmitter usually has a
digital voltmeter that indicates the voltage
on an LCD screen, but it doesn’t tell you
capacity. If your transmitter voltmeter
drops off quickly after several flights, that
certainly raises a flag!
If your transmitter uses AA-size
alkaline cells and the LED indicator
changes from green to amber, that means
caution. Don’t wait for the red LED to
glow and change the cells right away.
There are many good RC transmitter
battery-pack testers on the market for less
than $100, one of which is the West
Mountain Radio CBA II, which you can
find at www.westmountainradio.com/
CBA.htm. Another good tester is the
Sirius Electronics Super Test Precision
Battery Tester ($69.95). You can learn
more about it at www.siriuselectronics.com/
index.php?main_page=product_info&c
Path=1&products_id=120.
Hobbico offers the Accu-Cycle Pro-Series
Elite, which covers charging and discharging
battery-test functions. You can find it at
www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hs~hcap
0280.html.
Keep in mind that the charging circuits
inside most RC transmitters employ a
blocking diode, which means you won’t be
able to read voltage through the charging
jack. That usually means you must remove
the battery pack and hook it up directly to the
tester using an adapter cable that is available
from the RC manufacturer or an accessory
supplier such as Radical RC, which you can
find at www.radicalrc.com. MA
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/04
Page Numbers: 72,73,74,76
Also included in this column:
• The How High altimeter’s
See How readout device
• Soldering: suggested tools
and materials
• Web sites and forums
• RC transmitter battery
THIS IS THE 37th monthly column in
which I try to give you the best possible
answers to questions you have written or Emailed
to me. Each new inquiry is given a
sequential number for future reference.
Many questions and answers have been
posted to the AMA Web site at www.model
aircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp. Unfortunately
that posting stopped in August 2005 and will
not continue until this section of the AMA
Web site is revamped. In the meantime, if
you can’t find the subject matter you are
interested in, drop me an E-mail or letter
and I will try to assist you.
Q285: “I heard from a local modeling
friend recently that you had authored a
new guide intended for the RC beginner.
This friend had been given a ‘beta test’
copy to review and comment on.
“My local club has always found it
hard to get a newcomer started with the
RC flight learning process. So I’m most
interested in what you may soon have to
offer.”
A285: This effort started last winter while
I was vacationing in Florida but didn’t
have access to my shop/studio or my
model aircraft. I can never be away from
my hobby that long, so I was naturally
looking for something to do.
AMA Director of Publications Rob
Kurek had mentioned that he obtained a
“quick-start guide” for a sport in which he
wanted to participate. I immediately
thought about the application for RC
model aircraft and spent the remainder of
the winter drafting an AMA quick-start
guide.
My choice for that first-time trainer
aircraft was the popular Hitec/Multiplex
EasyStar, which is available as an RTF or
ARF. After returning to my Long Island, New
York, home in the spring, I took a series of
photos to go along with my proposed text.
The entire guide concept involves
getting you to a flying field for the first
time, then it suggests a typical trainer
aircraft. Finally it takes you through all the
necessary steps to make your first flights!
MA Advertising Representative Mark
Lanterman edited my draft text and inserted
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
all the photos in the correct places. He then
copied the newly created AMA R/C Model
Aircraft Quick-Start Guide onto CD-ROMs
that can be easily marketed to modelers,
clubs, local hobby dealers, and members of
the hobby industry.
It is also hoped that these disc copies get
to people outside our hobby who always
wanted to try flying RC models but never
knew how to go about it.
This column is being written in late
December 2006. When you read it the first
copies of the R/C Model Aircraft Quick-
Start Guide will have been distributed at the
The new AMA quick-start guide is
intended for the RC beginner. It is by
author and MA Technical Editor Bob
Aberle.
Jacket design for AMA quick-start guide
CD-ROMs.
Bob used the quick-start guide with his grandchildren Allison (10) and Hayden (8), shown
with EasyStar trainer used in the guide. Both maintained altitude for several minutes
without help after only three flights.
April 2007 73
Left: Winged Shadow Systems’ How High onboard altimeter (L)
reads peak altitude your model reaches after each flight. The new
See How (R) reads flashing LED count and displays altitude as a
digital number on LCD screen.
One of many battery testers on the market that can determine
receiver and transmitter battery-pack capacity. Many such devices
are offered and prices vary. Make sure you test batteries regularly!
Don’t assume that because they are new they are good!
Basic tools required to do a good soldering job. Bob
explains that the right-size solder and proper soldering
flux can help make the best solder joints.
Above: After a flight, hold See How’s
sensor up to the How High LED that
protrudes from the fuselage side. The
altitude your model reached will be
displayed in seconds (971 feet shown). You
can also “capture” as many as nine
altitude readings in one flight using your
RC system as the “trigger.”
2007 AMA Convention in Ontario,
California, in early January.
An announcement concerning this guide
will have already been posted on the AMA
Web site home page, and Bob Hunt will
have mentioned it in his “Modeling Spoken
Here” column in the March 2007 MA.
The details of how these CDs can be
obtained have not been finalized yet, but
I’m sure they will be worked out by the
time you read this. A good place to start
would be AMA’s museum store at the
Headquarters in Muncie, Indiana. There is
also an announcement about the guide on
AMA’s online beginners’ magazine, Sport
Aviator (at www.masportaviator.com).
I hope this info will steer you in the
right direction. Once you get a copy of the
guide, your comments would be valued!
Q286: “I read your review of the Winged
Shadow Systems How High altimeter in the
‘Worth a Closer Look’ section of the
September 2006 MA (page 15). I like this
device and the price is right.
“But I found that finger-waving
operating step, along with counting a
flashing LED, was a tedious process after
each flight to determine the peak altitude
of my aircraft. Is there any easier way to
do this?”
A286: I agree with you; the readout technique
for the How High altimeter isn’t easy. But
David West of Winged Shadow Systems has
come up with a new device called the “See
How.” It will quickly count the flashes of
your How High altimeter’s LED and read it
out as a digital number on a small LCD.
The See How resembles an automobile
alarm-setting device in size and shape. It
sells for $34.90 plus shipping. You can
obtain details and a downloadable
instruction sheet at http://rcreporter.com/
seehow.html.
This unit will display the peak altitude
your aircraft reaches without the need for
“finger waving” or LED flash counting.
The See How stays on the ground. When
your aircraft lands, hold the device’s
sensor close to the flashing LED on the
How High. Within a second or two the
LED flashes are read and you can see the
altitude on the LCD screen in digital
format (for instance, “1023” equals 1,023
feet).
Besides supplying the peak altitude,
you can capture up to a total of nine
altitude readings during a flight. Each
capture point can then be read out
separately after landing. It’s an interesting
concept, but, most important, the See How
makes altitude determination a snap!
Applicationwise the How High altimeter
can be used without an RC system to check
on peak altitude of FF, sailplane, and
rubber-powered models. All you need is a
tine Li-Poly battery (like a single-cell 130
mAh) to power it. You won’t be able to use
the “Capture” features without RC, but
peak-altitude recording is no problem.
Also consider using the How High to
check on your radio system’s overhead
range. It might surprise you that when your
aircraft is almost out of sight, it is at an
altitude of only 500-600 feet. Try it!
Q287: “I have been trying to improve my
soldering skills, but unfortunately don’t
seem to get past the basics.
“My common sense tells me that heavy
gauge wire needs a higher wattage
soldering iron than lighter gauge wire. I’m
also sure that the type and size of the solder
itself is another important consideration. I
wonder about the use of a flux to make the
solder flow more freely, producing the
proper joint.
“Can you set me in the right direction?”
A287: I have used Ungar soldering irons
and those sold by RadioShack for many
years. Both generally have a handle and a
heating element.
For most 16-gauge and lighter wire I use
a heating element of approximately 15-25
watts. Heavier-gauge wire, such as 14 down
to 10, requires a much hotter element such
as 40-50 watts.
I always use a multicore-type solder that
has a built-in flux inside the core, or center.
I also select a thin-gauge (diameter) solder
so it melts faster under normal heat levels.
RadioShack makes a .032-inch-diameter
solder I like very much. It is identified as
catalog numbers 64-017, 64-005, and 64-
009, depending on the amount of solder on
the roll.
Even though this solder has its own flux,
I generally add more flux of the paste
variety (RadioShack item 64-022). This is a
rosin soldering flux and the only type you
should use for electrical wiring. Never use
acid flux as sold in plumbing-supply stores
since it is highly corrosive.
I never use a soldering gun. This is the
type that heats up almost instantly when you
pull a trigger. The problem with it is that
depending on your patience the heat at the
tip can vary and often produces cold solder
joints.
The proof of the job when soldering is to
end up with a shiny, silverlike solder joint.
A gray-colored, dull-looking solder joint
did not get enough heat; that is what we call
a “cold solder joint.” It is to be avoided
because the joint can quickly separate,
causing an open circuit or at least an
intermittent connection.
Q288: “I had heard that a new forum type
Web site was recently introduced by Air
Age. Can you steer me to that Web site?”
A288: My understanding is that the Web
site you are referring to—Radio Control
Zone—has been up and working for almost
a year. It is sponsored by Air Age Media,
which publishes Model Airplane News and
Backyard Flyer magazines (and others).
Only recently has this forum been
advertised. You can find it at www.radio
controlzone.com.
The site is divided into major categories
of aircraft, cars, and boats. Within the
airplane category are many subcategories
such as “Model Aerodynamics,” “Park and
Backyard Flyers,” “Post Your Project
Photos,” “Sailplanes,” and many more.
There are also “Buy/Sell/Trade” and “Items
Wanted” sections. This forum is definitely
worth looking into.
Q289: “I fly electric-powered model
aircraft and recently suffered a bad crash.
The aftermath of that flight indicated that
my RC transmitter battery pack had died
early into my flying session.
“I later tested that pack and discovered
that it had a bad cell. What can I do to
prevent this problem?”
A289: I’ve answered this kind of question
many times, but the problem will never go
away. The fact that you tested your
transmitter battery pack after the crash tells
me that you have the equipment and
experience to test that kind of pack.
So your problem is that you went on
flying month after month or year after year
and never bothered testing the battery
pack’s capacity until you suffered a crash!
When you fly electric power, if the model
can’t get off the ground the airborne
battery either has a problem or wasn’t
charged.
You can correct that situation without a
resulting crash! Of course if you must use a
separate receiver/servo battery in your
aircraft, it must be charged and checked
just like your RC transmitter.
Your RC transmitter usually has a
digital voltmeter that indicates the voltage
on an LCD screen, but it doesn’t tell you
capacity. If your transmitter voltmeter
drops off quickly after several flights, that
certainly raises a flag!
If your transmitter uses AA-size
alkaline cells and the LED indicator
changes from green to amber, that means
caution. Don’t wait for the red LED to
glow and change the cells right away.
There are many good RC transmitter
battery-pack testers on the market for less
than $100, one of which is the West
Mountain Radio CBA II, which you can
find at www.westmountainradio.com/
CBA.htm. Another good tester is the
Sirius Electronics Super Test Precision
Battery Tester ($69.95). You can learn
more about it at www.siriuselectronics.com/
index.php?main_page=product_info&c
Path=1&products_id=120.
Hobbico offers the Accu-Cycle Pro-Series
Elite, which covers charging and discharging
battery-test functions. You can find it at
www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hs~hcap
0280.html.
Keep in mind that the charging circuits
inside most RC transmitters employ a
blocking diode, which means you won’t be
able to read voltage through the charging
jack. That usually means you must remove
the battery pack and hook it up directly to the
tester using an adapter cable that is available
from the RC manufacturer or an accessory
supplier such as Radical RC, which you can
find at www.radicalrc.com. MA