Frequently Asked Questions - 2007/08
Bob Aberle | [email protected]
Demountable Hinges allow for removable surfaces on a model
This is the 41st monthly column in which I try to give you the best possible answers to questions you have written or E-mailed to me. Each new inquiry is given a sequential number for future reference.
Many questions and answers have been posted to the AMA website at www.modelaircraft.org/mag/faq/index.asp. Unfortunately that posting stopped in August 2005 and will not continue until this section of the AMA website is revamped. In the meantime, if you can't find the subject matter you are interested in, drop me an E-mail or letter and I will try to assist you.
When you send me an E-mail and expect an answer, please make sure any spam-protection program will accept my reply. I once wrote a lengthy answer to a reader's E-mail and it was continually rejected because of his protection program. The only alternative is to provide your mailing address and I will respond via the postal service.
Q306: "I know you favor the SR Batteries gapless hinge tape, but I have one problem with that: once applied, the control surface is 'fixed for life.' In other words you can't remove a control surface for adjustment or replacement purposes.
Is it possible that somewhere on the hobby market there is a demountable hinge that can easily be separated and then rejoined?"
A306: There is a product that will fit your needs. It has been on the market for well more than 20 years; it just isn't advertised much. A "Demountable Hinge" is available from Ralph Cooney at Fourmost Racing Products (Oregon). You can find the product at www.fourmost.com/dmnt_hg.htm.
This gapless nylon hinge permits the modeler to easily remove the control surfaces from an aircraft. The hinges are sold in twelve 6-inch lengths in a package. A .032-inch-diameter wire holds the hinge pieces together. The nylon material can be attached to the model and flying surfaces with cyanoacrylate glue. See the website for more details.
Q307: "Bob in FAQ number 271 you talked about making lightening holes in
A307: You are right; several private collections of such equipment have been around for a long time. A collection that comes to mind is that of Ed Crotty and his 12-year-old son, Edward. They have more than 800 RC systems, and that figure is constantly growing. If you have something Ed needs, I'm sure he would be happy to accept it. You can contact him at Box 18478, Cleveland Heights, OH 44118; Tel.: (216) 371-5136. He plans on publishing an informational article about his collection. It may evolve into a book or his files and photos might be placed on one or more DVDs.
Q310: "I'm familiar with several brands of commercially available micro-size wheels suitable for indoor RC and lightweight parking-lot flyers. But I understand that there are now laser-cut wood wheels available. Can you refer me to the source?"
A310: Bob Selman Designs in Carthage, Missouri, has become one of the primary suppliers of micro/indoor RC equipment and accessories. He recently introduced a series of laser-cut wood wheels. These wheels include molded plastic axles, making installation easy. I have included a photo with this column. You can find the details at www.bsdmicro.com — select "Wheels" from the menu on the left side of the screen.
Q311: "I've read your suggestion on using a Dremel rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to cut down long machine screws to more usable lengths.
My problem when doing this is that the threads at the end of the screws get slightly mashed or damaged in the cutting process. The result is that it becomes difficult, or in some cases impossible, to get a nut to thread onto the cutoff screw. Has anyone come up with a better idea?"
A311: A reader supplied this answer. AMA member Andy Griffith E-mailed me recently and described a technique he uses to avoid the problem of "mashed" threads when cutting down machine screws. The steps are:
- Place the machine screw's head in a bench vise.
- Screw a T-nut onto the machine screw's threads, with the flat disc end of the T-nut going on last.
- Position the T-nut at the point where you want to make the cut; the T-nut helps maintain the cutoff wheel at exactly the desired position.
- Make the cut with the Dremel; after the extra length of the screw falls off wait a few seconds for it to cool.
- Back off the T-nut. In doing so, any mashed threads are "realigned" or smoothed out.
After that it should be easy to use the machine screw for any application. Thanks, Andy!
Q312: "I have collected all kinds of full-size plans over the years while participating in the wonderful hobby of model aviation. To me it is like a hobby within my hobby. Although I have a large collection, I like to keep adding as any new service becomes available. Do you know of any 'new entries' in the plan service business?"
A312: I always start to answer this question by referring to AMA's wonderful plans service, which includes the famous John Pond collection. But as you point out, there are many such services.
I recently came upon a new source at www.fullsizeplans.com/index.asp. I found this service on one of the model forums. The announcement read:
"If you like building model airplanes or just looking at plans you should check out my website of new production full size plans. We specialize in those old classics and out-of-production kit plans reproduced in full size. A subscription service for these plans is available at reasonable prices."
I have yet to sign up for this service. Let's hear some reports if you beat me to it!
MA
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
