July 2010 71
PLEASE WRITE IN with
your questions; that is the only
way we can keep this column
format going. When referring to
questions and answers that have
been published (for followups),
provide the number as a
reference.
References to addresses and
Web sites are placed in a group,
separate from the text, at the
end of this column under
“Sources.”
Q453: “I noticed in many of
your construction articles that
you use double sided tape to
attach the servos to the inside
of the aircraft’s fuselage. How
safe is this technique and are
there any ‘tricks’ I should know
about?”
A453: The basic “trick” is
knowing the limitations of this
process. I use double-stick tape
on all of my small or micro-size
servos, such as the Hitec HS-
50s, HS-55s, and HS-65s; Blue
Arrow types; and even Horizon
Hobby E-flite S60s.
One might use these small
servos in a model weighing as
much as 10-12 ounces total. For
higher weights, I use the timehonored
wood bearers and
screws that are usually provided with the servos. It’s a matter of
common sense.
As the airplanes get heavier, more loads are placed on the
servos. Those higher loads might cause double-stick tape to come
loose. If that happens you will have no control at the controlsurface
end. However, I’ll share some of the tricks I employ to
make tape-mounting servos as safe as possible.
To begin with, you need a good, dependable tape. I have
successfully used 3M Scotch Double Sided Mounting Tape for
many years. In particular, I like catalog item 214DC, which is a 1-
inch-wide variety that comes on a roll measuring 1.52 yards. (It is
available nationwide at stores such as The Home Depot, Lowe’s,
ACE Hardware, and many others.)
This tape has a protective backing on one side. I’ve found that
once the package is open, the tape has a certain shelf life; it
eventually dries out. So when I open a new package, I date it with
a marker.
Regardless of what is left on the roll after a year, I discard it in
favor of a new roll. This doesn’t happen often since I use so much
of this tape, not only to attach servos, but also to affix receivers
and ESCs.
The next important item is surface preparation. If you stick the
tape to raw balsa or plywood, the adhesion will be poor. Doing it
that way, I have had servos almost immediately fall off of the
fuselage.
The trick is to seal the surface of the wood, using either a
coating of CA glue or even five-minute epoxy. Once this is done,
Installing small servos
Bob Aberle | baberle@? Frequently Asked Questions optonline.net
Also included in this column:
• Degumming old engines
• FF modeling supplies
• Aircraft aprons
• Follow-up on solid scale
models
Left: The first step in the process
is to coat the area where the
servo is to be mounted with CA
(shown) or five-minute epoxy.
The last step is to apply double-stick tape to the servo, remove
the tape backing, and press the servo against the fuselage side.
This shows a mock-up employing a partial fuselage side.
Above: These are basic items
needed to attach a small RC
servo to a fuselage side using
double-stick tape rather than
wood screws. At the top is
medium-viscosity CA and
accelerator. On the right is
Scotch Double Sided Mounting
Tape. At the bottom is a typical
small servo.
the double-stick tape will adhere with no problems and the joint
will last for at least several years without the servo working itself
loose.
There is one problem that might arise if your control rod or
hinges cause a binding effect. If those parts are not moving freely,
you will notice that the servo case will shift slightly as the servo arm
is rotated.
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:00 PM Page 71
72 MODEL AVIATION
Watch that carefully! If the servo moves,
the likelihood is that it will come loose from
the tape after awhile.
Some modelers still worry about the
long-term use of double-stick tape. At times
they add a silicone adhesive to it. I’ve even
seen this adhesive used on some ARFs and
RTFs.
However, some silicone adhesives can
give off a corrosive vapor that raises fits
with electric wiring and even connectors. A
specific type of noncorrosive silicone
adhesive is intended for use with electrical
wiring.
I found many such adhesives, such as
ASI and Permatex, by using an Internet
search engine. See the “Sources” section for
those companies’ contact information.
One last caution! Some modelers cover a
servo with masking tape and then apply the
double-stick tape or silicone adhesive. By
doing this, they can more easily remove the
servo when the time comes. But then the
adhesion depends strictly on the tape used. I
would not take that chance.
Q454: “I have an old glow engine that really
looks like it is in sad shape, but I still wonder
if it might be rejuvenated in some way. I
can’t even turn the engine over. What might
I do to bring this old engine back to life?”
A454: A longtime friend and fellow AMA
Hall of Famer, Dave Gierke, came to my
rescue with this problem. There are probably
many solutions, but following is an easy
process as Dave related it to me.
First, remove any nonmetal engine
components, such as O-rings, plastic
carburetors, fuel lines, and plastic fuel tanks.
Once you get the engine running, you will
have to consider obtaining a new set of
gaskets.
Second, put an old propeller on the
engine shaft.
Third, obtain an oven-type glove to use
to protect your hand.
Fourth, get a heat gun, which you would
normally use with covering material. This is
actually a hot gun—not a hair dryer type.
And holding the engine with your ovengloved
hand, apply heat uniformly while
rotating the power plant, to warm all sides.
After approximately a minute of heating,
try rotating the propeller (shaft). Initially
you will feel a lot of resistance, but don’t
give up; continue applying heat.
Don’t be alarmed if you see smoke
coming from the engine. This is residual
castor oil decomposing. It also indicated that
you have reached the limit with heat
application.
Try flipping the propeller. When it snaps
back against the compression, you have
reached your goal.
Let the engine cool, and then add afterrun
oil. Dave likes Marvel Mystery Oil.
The last step is to run the engine several
times with your normal fuel. This will flush
the remaining castor oil residue from the
internal components, especially the ball
bearings. That should do it.
Dave Gierke has written two excellent
books about model engines, and you can
obtain copies from the AMA. Check them
out in the “Shop AMA” section of the
Academy’s Web site.
Q455: “Like most modelers today, I’m into
mostly RC model aircraft. But I did get my
start years ago with Free Flight, Rubber
Powered models.
“Is there a Web site you could refer me to
that carries most of the supplies that I would
need to once again build some Rubber
Powered scale models?”
A455: I’ve mentioned several sources for FF
rubber-powered model supplies, including
rubber, special propellers and propeller
shafts, thrust bearings and washers, DT
fuses, and more. One I haven’t mentioned is
TailSpin Aviation.
I’ve listed the company’s contact
information in the “Sources” section. There
is a place on the Web site where you can
click on a box that will allow you to
download a PDF of the complete TailSpin
Aviation catalog. This site was most
impressive.
TailSpin Aviation has a Web site dedicated to FF and rubber-power
enthusiasts. You can click on a box on the site to obtain a PDF of the
entire catalog.
Irene Shurson makes and sells these
aviation aprons, which would make
appropriate gifts for aeromodelers.
Bill Hannan’s excellent book contains a
chapter about solid scale models, but there
is much more and it is worth reading.
Bob’s old, sad Enya .40 CX gets a degumming treatment that an
engine expert, Dave Gierke, recommends. The technique is to apply
heat from a gun to free up the power plant. In this case, Bob has to
clean up the outside of his engine as well.
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:02 PM Page 72
Q456: “Bob, my husband has been involved
with the model aviation hobby for many
years. I have at times read some of his
magazines and in fact occasionally read your
FAQ column.
“With Father’s Day coming up, I was
trying to find some item that reflects an
interest in aviation to give to my husband.
Might you have any ‘shopping’
suggestions?”
A456: I have to at least plug our fine AMA
store, which you can access online from the
AMA homepage by clicking on “Shop
AMA.” There are many items there, such as
shirts, hats, ties, books, etc.
Awhile back, Irene Shurson sent me
information about an aviation apron she
makes and sells for $19.95. I’ve included a
photo of it in this column. It would be
perfect as a barbecue or cooking apron,
which your dinner guests would certainly
appreciate.
Irene sells products under the name All
Occasion Aprons. The contact information is
in the “Sources” section.
Follow-Up to 412 (September 2009 MA,
page 78): After making reference to solid
scale models, I received a nice e-mail from
Bill Hannan, a noted Rubber Scale modeler
who has had columns in the aeromodeling
press and has written many books. Bill is an
expert in rubber-powered Scale, with a
concentration on Peanut Scale—the tiny
aircraft.
His book, Model Builders & Their
Models International, contains a fairly
comprehensive article about solid scale
models. I have to warn you that when I
looked up this book on his Web site, I found
many other interesting subjects and items.
I’ve listed Bill’s contact information in
the “Sources” section. Please do yourself a
favor and look him up. MA
Sources:
ASI
(800) 325-7040
www.americansealantsinc.com
Permatex
(860) 543-7500
www.permatex.com
AMA
(765) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
TailSpin Aviation
301 E. 11th St.
Saint Elmo IL 62458
www.tailspinaviation.com
All Occasion Aprons
(319) 338-2259
www.alloccasionaprons.com
Bill Hannan’s Runway
(530) 873-6421
www.hrunway.com
74 MODEL AVIATION
AMA Academy of Model
Aeronautics
ARF Almost Ready to Fly
BEC Battery Eliminator Circuit
CA cyanoacrylate glue
CAD computer-aided design
cc cubic centimeter
CD contest director or
compact disc
CG center of gravity
CL Control Line
cm centimeter
cu. in. cubic inch
dBA DeciBels Adjusted (noise
power calculated in dB
[decibel])
DT dethermalizer
EPP (foam) expanded
polypropylene
ESC Electronic Speed Control
EPS expanded polystyrene foam
FAA Federal Aviation
Administration
FAI Fédération Aéronautique
Internationale
FCC Federal Communications
Commission
FF Free Flight
GHz gigahertz
ID inside diameter
Kv rpm/volt
kV kilovolt (1,000 volts)
LCD Liquid Crystal Display
LE leading edge
LED light-emitting diode
Li-Poly Lithium Polymer
mA milliamperes
MA Model Aviation
mAh milliampere-hours
MHz megahertz
mm millimeter
Nats AMA Nationals
nitro nitromethane
Ni-Cd Nickel Cadmium
NiMH Nickel Metal Hydride
OD outside diameter
RC Radio Control
rpm revolutions per minute
RTF Ready to Fly
SASE self-addressed, stamped
envelope
SIG Special Interest Group
TE trailing edge
Model Aviation’s
Frequently Used
Abbreviations/Acronyms
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:02 PM Page 74
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/07
Page Numbers: 71,72,74
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/07
Page Numbers: 71,72,74
July 2010 71
PLEASE WRITE IN with
your questions; that is the only
way we can keep this column
format going. When referring to
questions and answers that have
been published (for followups),
provide the number as a
reference.
References to addresses and
Web sites are placed in a group,
separate from the text, at the
end of this column under
“Sources.”
Q453: “I noticed in many of
your construction articles that
you use double sided tape to
attach the servos to the inside
of the aircraft’s fuselage. How
safe is this technique and are
there any ‘tricks’ I should know
about?”
A453: The basic “trick” is
knowing the limitations of this
process. I use double-stick tape
on all of my small or micro-size
servos, such as the Hitec HS-
50s, HS-55s, and HS-65s; Blue
Arrow types; and even Horizon
Hobby E-flite S60s.
One might use these small
servos in a model weighing as
much as 10-12 ounces total. For
higher weights, I use the timehonored
wood bearers and
screws that are usually provided with the servos. It’s a matter of
common sense.
As the airplanes get heavier, more loads are placed on the
servos. Those higher loads might cause double-stick tape to come
loose. If that happens you will have no control at the controlsurface
end. However, I’ll share some of the tricks I employ to
make tape-mounting servos as safe as possible.
To begin with, you need a good, dependable tape. I have
successfully used 3M Scotch Double Sided Mounting Tape for
many years. In particular, I like catalog item 214DC, which is a 1-
inch-wide variety that comes on a roll measuring 1.52 yards. (It is
available nationwide at stores such as The Home Depot, Lowe’s,
ACE Hardware, and many others.)
This tape has a protective backing on one side. I’ve found that
once the package is open, the tape has a certain shelf life; it
eventually dries out. So when I open a new package, I date it with
a marker.
Regardless of what is left on the roll after a year, I discard it in
favor of a new roll. This doesn’t happen often since I use so much
of this tape, not only to attach servos, but also to affix receivers
and ESCs.
The next important item is surface preparation. If you stick the
tape to raw balsa or plywood, the adhesion will be poor. Doing it
that way, I have had servos almost immediately fall off of the
fuselage.
The trick is to seal the surface of the wood, using either a
coating of CA glue or even five-minute epoxy. Once this is done,
Installing small servos
Bob Aberle | baberle@? Frequently Asked Questions optonline.net
Also included in this column:
• Degumming old engines
• FF modeling supplies
• Aircraft aprons
• Follow-up on solid scale
models
Left: The first step in the process
is to coat the area where the
servo is to be mounted with CA
(shown) or five-minute epoxy.
The last step is to apply double-stick tape to the servo, remove
the tape backing, and press the servo against the fuselage side.
This shows a mock-up employing a partial fuselage side.
Above: These are basic items
needed to attach a small RC
servo to a fuselage side using
double-stick tape rather than
wood screws. At the top is
medium-viscosity CA and
accelerator. On the right is
Scotch Double Sided Mounting
Tape. At the bottom is a typical
small servo.
the double-stick tape will adhere with no problems and the joint
will last for at least several years without the servo working itself
loose.
There is one problem that might arise if your control rod or
hinges cause a binding effect. If those parts are not moving freely,
you will notice that the servo case will shift slightly as the servo arm
is rotated.
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:00 PM Page 71
72 MODEL AVIATION
Watch that carefully! If the servo moves,
the likelihood is that it will come loose from
the tape after awhile.
Some modelers still worry about the
long-term use of double-stick tape. At times
they add a silicone adhesive to it. I’ve even
seen this adhesive used on some ARFs and
RTFs.
However, some silicone adhesives can
give off a corrosive vapor that raises fits
with electric wiring and even connectors. A
specific type of noncorrosive silicone
adhesive is intended for use with electrical
wiring.
I found many such adhesives, such as
ASI and Permatex, by using an Internet
search engine. See the “Sources” section for
those companies’ contact information.
One last caution! Some modelers cover a
servo with masking tape and then apply the
double-stick tape or silicone adhesive. By
doing this, they can more easily remove the
servo when the time comes. But then the
adhesion depends strictly on the tape used. I
would not take that chance.
Q454: “I have an old glow engine that really
looks like it is in sad shape, but I still wonder
if it might be rejuvenated in some way. I
can’t even turn the engine over. What might
I do to bring this old engine back to life?”
A454: A longtime friend and fellow AMA
Hall of Famer, Dave Gierke, came to my
rescue with this problem. There are probably
many solutions, but following is an easy
process as Dave related it to me.
First, remove any nonmetal engine
components, such as O-rings, plastic
carburetors, fuel lines, and plastic fuel tanks.
Once you get the engine running, you will
have to consider obtaining a new set of
gaskets.
Second, put an old propeller on the
engine shaft.
Third, obtain an oven-type glove to use
to protect your hand.
Fourth, get a heat gun, which you would
normally use with covering material. This is
actually a hot gun—not a hair dryer type.
And holding the engine with your ovengloved
hand, apply heat uniformly while
rotating the power plant, to warm all sides.
After approximately a minute of heating,
try rotating the propeller (shaft). Initially
you will feel a lot of resistance, but don’t
give up; continue applying heat.
Don’t be alarmed if you see smoke
coming from the engine. This is residual
castor oil decomposing. It also indicated that
you have reached the limit with heat
application.
Try flipping the propeller. When it snaps
back against the compression, you have
reached your goal.
Let the engine cool, and then add afterrun
oil. Dave likes Marvel Mystery Oil.
The last step is to run the engine several
times with your normal fuel. This will flush
the remaining castor oil residue from the
internal components, especially the ball
bearings. That should do it.
Dave Gierke has written two excellent
books about model engines, and you can
obtain copies from the AMA. Check them
out in the “Shop AMA” section of the
Academy’s Web site.
Q455: “Like most modelers today, I’m into
mostly RC model aircraft. But I did get my
start years ago with Free Flight, Rubber
Powered models.
“Is there a Web site you could refer me to
that carries most of the supplies that I would
need to once again build some Rubber
Powered scale models?”
A455: I’ve mentioned several sources for FF
rubber-powered model supplies, including
rubber, special propellers and propeller
shafts, thrust bearings and washers, DT
fuses, and more. One I haven’t mentioned is
TailSpin Aviation.
I’ve listed the company’s contact
information in the “Sources” section. There
is a place on the Web site where you can
click on a box that will allow you to
download a PDF of the complete TailSpin
Aviation catalog. This site was most
impressive.
TailSpin Aviation has a Web site dedicated to FF and rubber-power
enthusiasts. You can click on a box on the site to obtain a PDF of the
entire catalog.
Irene Shurson makes and sells these
aviation aprons, which would make
appropriate gifts for aeromodelers.
Bill Hannan’s excellent book contains a
chapter about solid scale models, but there
is much more and it is worth reading.
Bob’s old, sad Enya .40 CX gets a degumming treatment that an
engine expert, Dave Gierke, recommends. The technique is to apply
heat from a gun to free up the power plant. In this case, Bob has to
clean up the outside of his engine as well.
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:02 PM Page 72
Q456: “Bob, my husband has been involved
with the model aviation hobby for many
years. I have at times read some of his
magazines and in fact occasionally read your
FAQ column.
“With Father’s Day coming up, I was
trying to find some item that reflects an
interest in aviation to give to my husband.
Might you have any ‘shopping’
suggestions?”
A456: I have to at least plug our fine AMA
store, which you can access online from the
AMA homepage by clicking on “Shop
AMA.” There are many items there, such as
shirts, hats, ties, books, etc.
Awhile back, Irene Shurson sent me
information about an aviation apron she
makes and sells for $19.95. I’ve included a
photo of it in this column. It would be
perfect as a barbecue or cooking apron,
which your dinner guests would certainly
appreciate.
Irene sells products under the name All
Occasion Aprons. The contact information is
in the “Sources” section.
Follow-Up to 412 (September 2009 MA,
page 78): After making reference to solid
scale models, I received a nice e-mail from
Bill Hannan, a noted Rubber Scale modeler
who has had columns in the aeromodeling
press and has written many books. Bill is an
expert in rubber-powered Scale, with a
concentration on Peanut Scale—the tiny
aircraft.
His book, Model Builders & Their
Models International, contains a fairly
comprehensive article about solid scale
models. I have to warn you that when I
looked up this book on his Web site, I found
many other interesting subjects and items.
I’ve listed Bill’s contact information in
the “Sources” section. Please do yourself a
favor and look him up. MA
Sources:
ASI
(800) 325-7040
www.americansealantsinc.com
Permatex
(860) 543-7500
www.permatex.com
AMA
(765) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
TailSpin Aviation
301 E. 11th St.
Saint Elmo IL 62458
www.tailspinaviation.com
All Occasion Aprons
(319) 338-2259
www.alloccasionaprons.com
Bill Hannan’s Runway
(530) 873-6421
www.hrunway.com
74 MODEL AVIATION
AMA Academy of Model
Aeronautics
ARF Almost Ready to Fly
BEC Battery Eliminator Circuit
CA cyanoacrylate glue
CAD computer-aided design
cc cubic centimeter
CD contest director or
compact disc
CG center of gravity
CL Control Line
cm centimeter
cu. in. cubic inch
dBA DeciBels Adjusted (noise
power calculated in dB
[decibel])
DT dethermalizer
EPP (foam) expanded
polypropylene
ESC Electronic Speed Control
EPS expanded polystyrene foam
FAA Federal Aviation
Administration
FAI Fédération Aéronautique
Internationale
FCC Federal Communications
Commission
FF Free Flight
GHz gigahertz
ID inside diameter
Kv rpm/volt
kV kilovolt (1,000 volts)
LCD Liquid Crystal Display
LE leading edge
LED light-emitting diode
Li-Poly Lithium Polymer
mA milliamperes
MA Model Aviation
mAh milliampere-hours
MHz megahertz
mm millimeter
Nats AMA Nationals
nitro nitromethane
Ni-Cd Nickel Cadmium
NiMH Nickel Metal Hydride
OD outside diameter
RC Radio Control
rpm revolutions per minute
RTF Ready to Fly
SASE self-addressed, stamped
envelope
SIG Special Interest Group
TE trailing edge
Model Aviation’s
Frequently Used
Abbreviations/Acronyms
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:02 PM Page 74
Edition: Model Aviation - 2010/07
Page Numbers: 71,72,74
July 2010 71
PLEASE WRITE IN with
your questions; that is the only
way we can keep this column
format going. When referring to
questions and answers that have
been published (for followups),
provide the number as a
reference.
References to addresses and
Web sites are placed in a group,
separate from the text, at the
end of this column under
“Sources.”
Q453: “I noticed in many of
your construction articles that
you use double sided tape to
attach the servos to the inside
of the aircraft’s fuselage. How
safe is this technique and are
there any ‘tricks’ I should know
about?”
A453: The basic “trick” is
knowing the limitations of this
process. I use double-stick tape
on all of my small or micro-size
servos, such as the Hitec HS-
50s, HS-55s, and HS-65s; Blue
Arrow types; and even Horizon
Hobby E-flite S60s.
One might use these small
servos in a model weighing as
much as 10-12 ounces total. For
higher weights, I use the timehonored
wood bearers and
screws that are usually provided with the servos. It’s a matter of
common sense.
As the airplanes get heavier, more loads are placed on the
servos. Those higher loads might cause double-stick tape to come
loose. If that happens you will have no control at the controlsurface
end. However, I’ll share some of the tricks I employ to
make tape-mounting servos as safe as possible.
To begin with, you need a good, dependable tape. I have
successfully used 3M Scotch Double Sided Mounting Tape for
many years. In particular, I like catalog item 214DC, which is a 1-
inch-wide variety that comes on a roll measuring 1.52 yards. (It is
available nationwide at stores such as The Home Depot, Lowe’s,
ACE Hardware, and many others.)
This tape has a protective backing on one side. I’ve found that
once the package is open, the tape has a certain shelf life; it
eventually dries out. So when I open a new package, I date it with
a marker.
Regardless of what is left on the roll after a year, I discard it in
favor of a new roll. This doesn’t happen often since I use so much
of this tape, not only to attach servos, but also to affix receivers
and ESCs.
The next important item is surface preparation. If you stick the
tape to raw balsa or plywood, the adhesion will be poor. Doing it
that way, I have had servos almost immediately fall off of the
fuselage.
The trick is to seal the surface of the wood, using either a
coating of CA glue or even five-minute epoxy. Once this is done,
Installing small servos
Bob Aberle | baberle@? Frequently Asked Questions optonline.net
Also included in this column:
• Degumming old engines
• FF modeling supplies
• Aircraft aprons
• Follow-up on solid scale
models
Left: The first step in the process
is to coat the area where the
servo is to be mounted with CA
(shown) or five-minute epoxy.
The last step is to apply double-stick tape to the servo, remove
the tape backing, and press the servo against the fuselage side.
This shows a mock-up employing a partial fuselage side.
Above: These are basic items
needed to attach a small RC
servo to a fuselage side using
double-stick tape rather than
wood screws. At the top is
medium-viscosity CA and
accelerator. On the right is
Scotch Double Sided Mounting
Tape. At the bottom is a typical
small servo.
the double-stick tape will adhere with no problems and the joint
will last for at least several years without the servo working itself
loose.
There is one problem that might arise if your control rod or
hinges cause a binding effect. If those parts are not moving freely,
you will notice that the servo case will shift slightly as the servo arm
is rotated.
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:00 PM Page 71
72 MODEL AVIATION
Watch that carefully! If the servo moves,
the likelihood is that it will come loose from
the tape after awhile.
Some modelers still worry about the
long-term use of double-stick tape. At times
they add a silicone adhesive to it. I’ve even
seen this adhesive used on some ARFs and
RTFs.
However, some silicone adhesives can
give off a corrosive vapor that raises fits
with electric wiring and even connectors. A
specific type of noncorrosive silicone
adhesive is intended for use with electrical
wiring.
I found many such adhesives, such as
ASI and Permatex, by using an Internet
search engine. See the “Sources” section for
those companies’ contact information.
One last caution! Some modelers cover a
servo with masking tape and then apply the
double-stick tape or silicone adhesive. By
doing this, they can more easily remove the
servo when the time comes. But then the
adhesion depends strictly on the tape used. I
would not take that chance.
Q454: “I have an old glow engine that really
looks like it is in sad shape, but I still wonder
if it might be rejuvenated in some way. I
can’t even turn the engine over. What might
I do to bring this old engine back to life?”
A454: A longtime friend and fellow AMA
Hall of Famer, Dave Gierke, came to my
rescue with this problem. There are probably
many solutions, but following is an easy
process as Dave related it to me.
First, remove any nonmetal engine
components, such as O-rings, plastic
carburetors, fuel lines, and plastic fuel tanks.
Once you get the engine running, you will
have to consider obtaining a new set of
gaskets.
Second, put an old propeller on the
engine shaft.
Third, obtain an oven-type glove to use
to protect your hand.
Fourth, get a heat gun, which you would
normally use with covering material. This is
actually a hot gun—not a hair dryer type.
And holding the engine with your ovengloved
hand, apply heat uniformly while
rotating the power plant, to warm all sides.
After approximately a minute of heating,
try rotating the propeller (shaft). Initially
you will feel a lot of resistance, but don’t
give up; continue applying heat.
Don’t be alarmed if you see smoke
coming from the engine. This is residual
castor oil decomposing. It also indicated that
you have reached the limit with heat
application.
Try flipping the propeller. When it snaps
back against the compression, you have
reached your goal.
Let the engine cool, and then add afterrun
oil. Dave likes Marvel Mystery Oil.
The last step is to run the engine several
times with your normal fuel. This will flush
the remaining castor oil residue from the
internal components, especially the ball
bearings. That should do it.
Dave Gierke has written two excellent
books about model engines, and you can
obtain copies from the AMA. Check them
out in the “Shop AMA” section of the
Academy’s Web site.
Q455: “Like most modelers today, I’m into
mostly RC model aircraft. But I did get my
start years ago with Free Flight, Rubber
Powered models.
“Is there a Web site you could refer me to
that carries most of the supplies that I would
need to once again build some Rubber
Powered scale models?”
A455: I’ve mentioned several sources for FF
rubber-powered model supplies, including
rubber, special propellers and propeller
shafts, thrust bearings and washers, DT
fuses, and more. One I haven’t mentioned is
TailSpin Aviation.
I’ve listed the company’s contact
information in the “Sources” section. There
is a place on the Web site where you can
click on a box that will allow you to
download a PDF of the complete TailSpin
Aviation catalog. This site was most
impressive.
TailSpin Aviation has a Web site dedicated to FF and rubber-power
enthusiasts. You can click on a box on the site to obtain a PDF of the
entire catalog.
Irene Shurson makes and sells these
aviation aprons, which would make
appropriate gifts for aeromodelers.
Bill Hannan’s excellent book contains a
chapter about solid scale models, but there
is much more and it is worth reading.
Bob’s old, sad Enya .40 CX gets a degumming treatment that an
engine expert, Dave Gierke, recommends. The technique is to apply
heat from a gun to free up the power plant. In this case, Bob has to
clean up the outside of his engine as well.
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:02 PM Page 72
Q456: “Bob, my husband has been involved
with the model aviation hobby for many
years. I have at times read some of his
magazines and in fact occasionally read your
FAQ column.
“With Father’s Day coming up, I was
trying to find some item that reflects an
interest in aviation to give to my husband.
Might you have any ‘shopping’
suggestions?”
A456: I have to at least plug our fine AMA
store, which you can access online from the
AMA homepage by clicking on “Shop
AMA.” There are many items there, such as
shirts, hats, ties, books, etc.
Awhile back, Irene Shurson sent me
information about an aviation apron she
makes and sells for $19.95. I’ve included a
photo of it in this column. It would be
perfect as a barbecue or cooking apron,
which your dinner guests would certainly
appreciate.
Irene sells products under the name All
Occasion Aprons. The contact information is
in the “Sources” section.
Follow-Up to 412 (September 2009 MA,
page 78): After making reference to solid
scale models, I received a nice e-mail from
Bill Hannan, a noted Rubber Scale modeler
who has had columns in the aeromodeling
press and has written many books. Bill is an
expert in rubber-powered Scale, with a
concentration on Peanut Scale—the tiny
aircraft.
His book, Model Builders & Their
Models International, contains a fairly
comprehensive article about solid scale
models. I have to warn you that when I
looked up this book on his Web site, I found
many other interesting subjects and items.
I’ve listed Bill’s contact information in
the “Sources” section. Please do yourself a
favor and look him up. MA
Sources:
ASI
(800) 325-7040
www.americansealantsinc.com
Permatex
(860) 543-7500
www.permatex.com
AMA
(765) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
TailSpin Aviation
301 E. 11th St.
Saint Elmo IL 62458
www.tailspinaviation.com
All Occasion Aprons
(319) 338-2259
www.alloccasionaprons.com
Bill Hannan’s Runway
(530) 873-6421
www.hrunway.com
74 MODEL AVIATION
AMA Academy of Model
Aeronautics
ARF Almost Ready to Fly
BEC Battery Eliminator Circuit
CA cyanoacrylate glue
CAD computer-aided design
cc cubic centimeter
CD contest director or
compact disc
CG center of gravity
CL Control Line
cm centimeter
cu. in. cubic inch
dBA DeciBels Adjusted (noise
power calculated in dB
[decibel])
DT dethermalizer
EPP (foam) expanded
polypropylene
ESC Electronic Speed Control
EPS expanded polystyrene foam
FAA Federal Aviation
Administration
FAI Fédération Aéronautique
Internationale
FCC Federal Communications
Commission
FF Free Flight
GHz gigahertz
ID inside diameter
Kv rpm/volt
kV kilovolt (1,000 volts)
LCD Liquid Crystal Display
LE leading edge
LED light-emitting diode
Li-Poly Lithium Polymer
mA milliamperes
MA Model Aviation
mAh milliampere-hours
MHz megahertz
mm millimeter
Nats AMA Nationals
nitro nitromethane
Ni-Cd Nickel Cadmium
NiMH Nickel Metal Hydride
OD outside diameter
RC Radio Control
rpm revolutions per minute
RTF Ready to Fly
SASE self-addressed, stamped
envelope
SIG Special Interest Group
TE trailing edge
Model Aviation’s
Frequently Used
Abbreviations/Acronyms
07sig3x.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 5/25/10 3:02 PM Page 74
