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Frequently Asked Questions 2014/04

Author: Bob Aberle


Edition: Model Aviation - 2014/04
Page Numbers: 89, 90, 91

CH Ignitions
Q588: I have a Saito 170 glow engine that I would like to convert to ignition operation using a gasoline-and-oil mix. A company named CH Ignitions provided this service for many years, but I hear it is no longer in business. Can you recommend another company?
A588: I continually recommend to my readers that they use the various Internet search engines to locate companies and services for our hobby. I Googled “CH Ignitions” and learned that the company is still in business and operates out of West Palm Beach, Florida. The proprietor’s name is Adrian Ciulei.
The company provides CDI ignition systems that allow glow engines to be converted to ignition operation using gasoline fuel. Conversions are available for single, twin, inline, “V,” uneven fire, and radial three-, five-, or seven-cylinder (nine cylinders in the future) for many different brands.
CH Ignitions also provides an engine repair service. I’ve listed the website in the “Sources” section.

Simulated Rivets on Foam Structures
Q589: I have an ARF model that was constructed from foam material. I want to add simulated rivets for a more scalelike realism. What is an easy way to do that?
A589: My fellow SEFLI (Silent Electric Flyers of Long Island) club member, Casey Brandsema, again comes to my rescue. Casey employed an old clock gear that is attached to a piece of wood. The gear must rotate freely.
All you need to do is roll the gear along the model’s surface and it will leave a series of indentations that resemble the rivets used on full-scale aircraft. Casey found this gear (shown in the photos) at a local clock repair shop. I’m sure if you Google “clock gears” you will find many sources.
This technique is only intended for a foam surface. It will not work on a covered, built-up structure.

Installing Battery Packs
Q590: As do many modelers, I use Velcro mounting tape to hold my battery packs in place inside my models. When the space is tight, the Velcro tape will lock in place long before my battery pack is in the proper position. Do you have any suggestions?
A590: Reader and member, Dawson Gillaspy of Newark, Delaware, sent me this suggestion:

“Many fliers use hook-and-fastener (Velcro) tape to secure their battery packs to a solid wood surface (like a fuselage floor). The immediate grab of this tape can make it difficult to slide the battery to the exact desired position.
“In order to overcome this problem, I place a narrow strip of flexible plastic between the battery pack and the model’s surface. Once the pack is spot-on, I slide out the plastic strip. As a suggestion, the plastic sleeve that comes with APC props is a perfect source for the plastic material.”

I thank Dawson for this idea. Of course, this process works when installing a battery pack, but will not work when it comes to removing the battery. In that case, I use something shaped like a tongue depressor made from 1/32 or 1/64 plywood. Slipping this between the two layers of the Velcro tape forces the tape to separate.

RC Micro World Article Archives
Q591: Bob, I’ve been following your series of micro/indoor RC designs since you started with the old RC Micro Flight back in 2001. I saved some of your articles, but I’m missing many. Is there any source that provides copies of all of these articles?
A591: The answer is yes, and your question is timely because a single DVD has been recently produced that covers all of my designs and more. The DVD covers every issue of RC Micro Flight that was published from 1999 until publication stopped after February 2005.
On that same DVD are all the RC Micro World issues from May 2005 until the end of 2012. It will also be possible to acquire the full year of 2013.
As a point of interest, I published seven designs for RC Micro Flight and 53 designs for RC Micro World, totaling 60 micro/indoor RC designs. These articles can all be found on the DVD. Plans are available from Full Size Plans, operated by Roland Friestad. A website is provided at the end of this column.

Author: Bob Aberle


Edition: Model Aviation - 2014/04
Page Numbers: 89, 90, 91

CH Ignitions
Q588: I have a Saito 170 glow engine that I would like to convert to ignition operation using a gasoline-and-oil mix. A company named CH Ignitions provided this service for many years, but I hear it is no longer in business. Can you recommend another company?
A588: I continually recommend to my readers that they use the various Internet search engines to locate companies and services for our hobby. I Googled “CH Ignitions” and learned that the company is still in business and operates out of West Palm Beach, Florida. The proprietor’s name is Adrian Ciulei.
The company provides CDI ignition systems that allow glow engines to be converted to ignition operation using gasoline fuel. Conversions are available for single, twin, inline, “V,” uneven fire, and radial three-, five-, or seven-cylinder (nine cylinders in the future) for many different brands.
CH Ignitions also provides an engine repair service. I’ve listed the website in the “Sources” section.

Simulated Rivets on Foam Structures
Q589: I have an ARF model that was constructed from foam material. I want to add simulated rivets for a more scalelike realism. What is an easy way to do that?
A589: My fellow SEFLI (Silent Electric Flyers of Long Island) club member, Casey Brandsema, again comes to my rescue. Casey employed an old clock gear that is attached to a piece of wood. The gear must rotate freely.
All you need to do is roll the gear along the model’s surface and it will leave a series of indentations that resemble the rivets used on full-scale aircraft. Casey found this gear (shown in the photos) at a local clock repair shop. I’m sure if you Google “clock gears” you will find many sources.
This technique is only intended for a foam surface. It will not work on a covered, built-up structure.

Installing Battery Packs
Q590: As do many modelers, I use Velcro mounting tape to hold my battery packs in place inside my models. When the space is tight, the Velcro tape will lock in place long before my battery pack is in the proper position. Do you have any suggestions?
A590: Reader and member, Dawson Gillaspy of Newark, Delaware, sent me this suggestion:

“Many fliers use hook-and-fastener (Velcro) tape to secure their battery packs to a solid wood surface (like a fuselage floor). The immediate grab of this tape can make it difficult to slide the battery to the exact desired position.
“In order to overcome this problem, I place a narrow strip of flexible plastic between the battery pack and the model’s surface. Once the pack is spot-on, I slide out the plastic strip. As a suggestion, the plastic sleeve that comes with APC props is a perfect source for the plastic material.”

I thank Dawson for this idea. Of course, this process works when installing a battery pack, but will not work when it comes to removing the battery. In that case, I use something shaped like a tongue depressor made from 1/32 or 1/64 plywood. Slipping this between the two layers of the Velcro tape forces the tape to separate.

RC Micro World Article Archives
Q591: Bob, I’ve been following your series of micro/indoor RC designs since you started with the old RC Micro Flight back in 2001. I saved some of your articles, but I’m missing many. Is there any source that provides copies of all of these articles?
A591: The answer is yes, and your question is timely because a single DVD has been recently produced that covers all of my designs and more. The DVD covers every issue of RC Micro Flight that was published from 1999 until publication stopped after February 2005.
On that same DVD are all the RC Micro World issues from May 2005 until the end of 2012. It will also be possible to acquire the full year of 2013.
As a point of interest, I published seven designs for RC Micro Flight and 53 designs for RC Micro World, totaling 60 micro/indoor RC designs. These articles can all be found on the DVD. Plans are available from Full Size Plans, operated by Roland Friestad. A website is provided at the end of this column.

Author: Bob Aberle


Edition: Model Aviation - 2014/04
Page Numbers: 89, 90, 91

CH Ignitions
Q588: I have a Saito 170 glow engine that I would like to convert to ignition operation using a gasoline-and-oil mix. A company named CH Ignitions provided this service for many years, but I hear it is no longer in business. Can you recommend another company?
A588: I continually recommend to my readers that they use the various Internet search engines to locate companies and services for our hobby. I Googled “CH Ignitions” and learned that the company is still in business and operates out of West Palm Beach, Florida. The proprietor’s name is Adrian Ciulei.
The company provides CDI ignition systems that allow glow engines to be converted to ignition operation using gasoline fuel. Conversions are available for single, twin, inline, “V,” uneven fire, and radial three-, five-, or seven-cylinder (nine cylinders in the future) for many different brands.
CH Ignitions also provides an engine repair service. I’ve listed the website in the “Sources” section.

Simulated Rivets on Foam Structures
Q589: I have an ARF model that was constructed from foam material. I want to add simulated rivets for a more scalelike realism. What is an easy way to do that?
A589: My fellow SEFLI (Silent Electric Flyers of Long Island) club member, Casey Brandsema, again comes to my rescue. Casey employed an old clock gear that is attached to a piece of wood. The gear must rotate freely.
All you need to do is roll the gear along the model’s surface and it will leave a series of indentations that resemble the rivets used on full-scale aircraft. Casey found this gear (shown in the photos) at a local clock repair shop. I’m sure if you Google “clock gears” you will find many sources.
This technique is only intended for a foam surface. It will not work on a covered, built-up structure.

Installing Battery Packs
Q590: As do many modelers, I use Velcro mounting tape to hold my battery packs in place inside my models. When the space is tight, the Velcro tape will lock in place long before my battery pack is in the proper position. Do you have any suggestions?
A590: Reader and member, Dawson Gillaspy of Newark, Delaware, sent me this suggestion:

“Many fliers use hook-and-fastener (Velcro) tape to secure their battery packs to a solid wood surface (like a fuselage floor). The immediate grab of this tape can make it difficult to slide the battery to the exact desired position.
“In order to overcome this problem, I place a narrow strip of flexible plastic between the battery pack and the model’s surface. Once the pack is spot-on, I slide out the plastic strip. As a suggestion, the plastic sleeve that comes with APC props is a perfect source for the plastic material.”

I thank Dawson for this idea. Of course, this process works when installing a battery pack, but will not work when it comes to removing the battery. In that case, I use something shaped like a tongue depressor made from 1/32 or 1/64 plywood. Slipping this between the two layers of the Velcro tape forces the tape to separate.

RC Micro World Article Archives
Q591: Bob, I’ve been following your series of micro/indoor RC designs since you started with the old RC Micro Flight back in 2001. I saved some of your articles, but I’m missing many. Is there any source that provides copies of all of these articles?
A591: The answer is yes, and your question is timely because a single DVD has been recently produced that covers all of my designs and more. The DVD covers every issue of RC Micro Flight that was published from 1999 until publication stopped after February 2005.
On that same DVD are all the RC Micro World issues from May 2005 until the end of 2012. It will also be possible to acquire the full year of 2013.
As a point of interest, I published seven designs for RC Micro Flight and 53 designs for RC Micro World, totaling 60 micro/indoor RC designs. These articles can all be found on the DVD. Plans are available from Full Size Plans, operated by Roland Friestad. A website is provided at the end of this column.

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