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Great Planes Rifle 1M Sport Electric 2014/06

Author: Terry Dunn


Edition: Model Aviation - 2014/06
Page Numbers: 59,60,61,62

If you like to fly fast, or maybe just want to give it a try, there are plenty of models that will scratch that itch. The problem with these speedsters is that they often sacrifice practicality for a few more miles per hour. It’s similar to driving a top fuel dragster to work. Sure it’s fun to leave the minivan drivers agape at the stoplights, but parking is a real pain!
It would be better to have something fast and sensible. That’s the idea behind the Great Planes Rifle 1M. This model is intended for fliers who have a speed jones, but would rather not deal with the hassles of a go-for-broke velocity demon.
The Rifle 1M appears similar in design to many electric Pylon racers, including its predecessor, the original Rifle. The main difference is that this new iteration is several inches longer and has a larger wingspan. This makes the 1M easier to see in the air and provides more room for its components.
Great Planes provides sport (90 mph top speed) and speed (130 mph) configurations in the Rifle 1M. These options use the same motor, so I will review both. Going from one setup to the other requires switching the propeller and battery. You can get a feel for the airplane in the sport mode, and then stretch its legs with the speed configuration—all in the same outing.

Putting It Together
When I opened the box, I was surprised by how few parts it contained. There is the one-piece wing with attached ailerons, hollow fiberglass fuselage, horizontal stabilizer, and a small bag of parts. All of the airframe parts come painted in an orange, white, and black color scheme. My kit showed some color bleeding in a few areas, but it’s only visible up close. Overall, I was impressed by the parts’ quality and finish.
I used the recommended power system and radio components throughout the airplane, including the Ammo 28-45-3600 brushless motor. The kit includes a plywood template for drilling out the carbon-fiber firewall, which makes the job easy.
My skin is sensitive to carbon-fiber dust, so before drilling I stuffed a moist paper towel behind the firewall and covered the air inlets with masking tape. This helped me manage the dust and keep it off of my skin and out of my lungs.
Although the Rifle 1M has a roomier interior than many other molded speedsters, it helps to plan your equipment locations to make best use of the space. Think of it as aeronautical feng shui.
I was impressed that the assembly manual illustrates the ideal length to cut the ESC’s motor leads for an easy fit. I followed these instructions on my Castle Creations Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC and it worked out perfectly.
The Rifle 1M includes a nice aluminum collet-type spinner, which mates perfectly with the Ammo’s motor shaft. The shaft, however, must be shortened by a few millimeters to get the proper spacing between the spinner and firewall. The manual suggests using a Dremel cut-off wheel for this job, but I opted to use my bench grinder. Either option works.
Some modelers may be surprised that the Rifle 1M uses simple metal pushrods with Z-bends on every control surface. Although they appear somewhat rudimentary on a high-performance airplane such as this, Z-bends are actually a robust and dependable choice. If you’ve ever tried to get good Z-bends with needle-nose pliers, you know how tough it can be. I started using Hobbico Z-bend pliers a few years ago and haven’t looked back.
I was glad to see that the pushrod wire in the kit was a perfect fit for the predrilled holes in the control horns and the servo horns that came with my Futaba S3156 digital servos. That resulted in zero slop at the control surfaces. Although a sport airplane can typically tolerate a little play in the control system, a fast airplane such as the Rifle 1M should have tight linkages from end to end.
Great Planes recommends gluing in the single elevator servo and two aileron servos using Zap Goo adhesive. I used Amazing Goop (a similar adhesive) and it is holding up well. With either choice, be careful to keep the glue away from the wing’s foam core.
The vertical stabilizer is an integral part of the fiberglass fuselage and it is topped with a saddle for the horizontal stabilizer. On my kit, the wing and horizontal stabilizer were not parallel. I lightly sanded the high side of the stabilizer saddle and added two strips of Scotch tape as a shim on the low side to even things out. I used a tilt meter on my smartphone to ensure that both surfaces were parallel … there’s an app for that!
There are ample air inlets in the Rifle 1M’s nose, as well as a sizeable outlet behind the wing. I mounted my Futaba R617FS receiver below the outlet hole. Manipulating the servo plugs into place by working through the fuselage opening reminded me of the game called Operation that I played when I was a kid (but without the telltale buzzer!).
I had to trim a sharp layer of untrimmed fiberglass that protruded inside this area of the fuselage. It wasn’t a structural or cosmetic issue, but I thought it would eventually fray the servo leads bundled here.
The Rifle 1M requires you to remove the wing to access the battery. For most of my similar models, I have added an arming plug so that I can arm the power system without removing the wing. It’s a prudent safety precaution.
The Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC offers the same capability with a slightly different approach. One of its optional (and currently free) add-ons is an ESC arming lock. It is a small receptacle that prevents the ESC from arming, or disarms it when the plastic key is inserted. I mounted the receptacle to a scrap piece of sheet plastic and glued it under the rear of the air-exit opening.
To aid in separating the hook-and-loop tape that secures the battery, the kit includes a plastic spatula (it works surprisingly well). I’ve modified the spatula into a field kit for the Rifle 1M. It now features tethers that hold the ESC arming key and a hex wrench for the wing bolts. It’s a handy way to manage the tools I need for a quick battery swap.
Great Planes includes the parts to assemble a small CG stand for use on the Rifle. It’s a neat idea, but I found the vertical posts too flexible for the job. I may slightly shorten them and see if that improves things.
Because I started with the sport setup, I installed an APC 5.25 x 6.25 propeller and a FlightPower 2S 2,100 mAh LiPo battery. The entire battery must be forward of the wing opening to get the right CG, but the spatula makes installation and removal easy. With the heavier Great Planes 3S 2,200 mAh LiPo used on the speed version, the pack is accessible through the wing saddle.
I set up the controls on my Futaba 7C radio exactly as described in the Rifle 1M manual, including exponential settings. I also programmed the recommended spoileron feature using the Airbrake function on the 7C. It’s straightforward radio programming.
After two short build sessions, the Rifle 1M was ready to fly. I was pleased that it was within the suggested weight range in the sport or speed configurations. Static power testing showed a smooth-running motor with plenty of power.

Flying the Rifle 1M
Even with the sport setup, the Rifle 1M doesn’t need a grunting Hail Mary heave to get going. The required effort is more akin to a game of backyard catch. Keep it level and you shouldn’t have any drama.
My Rifle 1M required a significant amount of aileron trim on its maiden flight. I later determined that my lateral balance was off. Pay attention to that detail! After correcting the balance issue, I neutralized the trim.
The first thing I noticed about the Rifle 1M was how quiet it is in the air. Even with the motor wide open, it quickly whooshed by. I don’t doubt Great Planes’ claim of a 90 mph top speed with the sport setup. That speed isn’t much faster than many .40-size sport airplanes. The Rifle’s small stature and hushed volume, however, make it a thrilling ride.
The Rifle is capable of streaking through the sky, but it doesn’t have to. I prefer to spend a majority of my flights at half throttle or less—just grooving around the field. The sleek little airplane behaves well at these moderate speeds. It lets you know when you’re getting too slow by responding with mushy aileron response.
Because of its stable low-throttle behavior and impressive speed at full gallop, I think the Rifle 1M sport setup is an ideal gateway into the world of composite racers. It will allow you to slowly expand your speed comfort zone while forcing you to become accustomed to the demands of visually tracking a svelte aircraft. The colorful paint is good for orientation when you have a broadside perspective, but the Rifle 1M nearly disappears when you view it head on.
I prefer flying with low-rate elevator and high-rate ailerons. These throws are good for smooth flying and big aerobatics. The altitude of your loops is limited only by your vision. Rolls and inverted flight are no problem. Cuban 8s and Immelmann turns look best when using a lot of sky. Anything more aggressive would be out of character for this type of airplane.
After getting comfortable with the sport setup, I switched to speed mode. The Rifle 1M could still cruise around at moderate speeds, but it is noticeably faster when the stick is pushed forward. Great Planes claims the aircraft can reach a speed of 130 mph, and I don’t doubt it.
What a rush it is to bring the airplane whistling over the runway and then whip it into a high-G pylon turn! Trust me—you will be turning often to keep the airplane in your sight!
With either setup, you’ll want to plan far ahead for landing. The Rifle carries plenty of energy and takes time and real estate to slow down. I typically deploy the spoilerons (which doesn’t cause a trim change for me) before entering the pattern and kill the throttle on the downwind leg. I still occasionally overshot the runway and had to go around. Keep a stash of propellers handy in case you excel at finding mole hills and divots on your runway!

Conclusion
There is no doubt that the Great Planes Rifle 1-Meter Sport Electric is capable of impressive speeds. What I found more impressive, however, is that it is not a one-trick pony. The model minds its manners when I throttle back to catch my breath, while still being competent with low-power aerobatics.
When the flight is over, the battery is easily accessible. I think that aspiring speedsters will find the Rifle 1M an unintimidating way to shift their flying skills into overdrive.

Author: Terry Dunn


Edition: Model Aviation - 2014/06
Page Numbers: 59,60,61,62

If you like to fly fast, or maybe just want to give it a try, there are plenty of models that will scratch that itch. The problem with these speedsters is that they often sacrifice practicality for a few more miles per hour. It’s similar to driving a top fuel dragster to work. Sure it’s fun to leave the minivan drivers agape at the stoplights, but parking is a real pain!
It would be better to have something fast and sensible. That’s the idea behind the Great Planes Rifle 1M. This model is intended for fliers who have a speed jones, but would rather not deal with the hassles of a go-for-broke velocity demon.
The Rifle 1M appears similar in design to many electric Pylon racers, including its predecessor, the original Rifle. The main difference is that this new iteration is several inches longer and has a larger wingspan. This makes the 1M easier to see in the air and provides more room for its components.
Great Planes provides sport (90 mph top speed) and speed (130 mph) configurations in the Rifle 1M. These options use the same motor, so I will review both. Going from one setup to the other requires switching the propeller and battery. You can get a feel for the airplane in the sport mode, and then stretch its legs with the speed configuration—all in the same outing.

Putting It Together
When I opened the box, I was surprised by how few parts it contained. There is the one-piece wing with attached ailerons, hollow fiberglass fuselage, horizontal stabilizer, and a small bag of parts. All of the airframe parts come painted in an orange, white, and black color scheme. My kit showed some color bleeding in a few areas, but it’s only visible up close. Overall, I was impressed by the parts’ quality and finish.
I used the recommended power system and radio components throughout the airplane, including the Ammo 28-45-3600 brushless motor. The kit includes a plywood template for drilling out the carbon-fiber firewall, which makes the job easy.
My skin is sensitive to carbon-fiber dust, so before drilling I stuffed a moist paper towel behind the firewall and covered the air inlets with masking tape. This helped me manage the dust and keep it off of my skin and out of my lungs.
Although the Rifle 1M has a roomier interior than many other molded speedsters, it helps to plan your equipment locations to make best use of the space. Think of it as aeronautical feng shui.
I was impressed that the assembly manual illustrates the ideal length to cut the ESC’s motor leads for an easy fit. I followed these instructions on my Castle Creations Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC and it worked out perfectly.
The Rifle 1M includes a nice aluminum collet-type spinner, which mates perfectly with the Ammo’s motor shaft. The shaft, however, must be shortened by a few millimeters to get the proper spacing between the spinner and firewall. The manual suggests using a Dremel cut-off wheel for this job, but I opted to use my bench grinder. Either option works.
Some modelers may be surprised that the Rifle 1M uses simple metal pushrods with Z-bends on every control surface. Although they appear somewhat rudimentary on a high-performance airplane such as this, Z-bends are actually a robust and dependable choice. If you’ve ever tried to get good Z-bends with needle-nose pliers, you know how tough it can be. I started using Hobbico Z-bend pliers a few years ago and haven’t looked back.
I was glad to see that the pushrod wire in the kit was a perfect fit for the predrilled holes in the control horns and the servo horns that came with my Futaba S3156 digital servos. That resulted in zero slop at the control surfaces. Although a sport airplane can typically tolerate a little play in the control system, a fast airplane such as the Rifle 1M should have tight linkages from end to end.
Great Planes recommends gluing in the single elevator servo and two aileron servos using Zap Goo adhesive. I used Amazing Goop (a similar adhesive) and it is holding up well. With either choice, be careful to keep the glue away from the wing’s foam core.
The vertical stabilizer is an integral part of the fiberglass fuselage and it is topped with a saddle for the horizontal stabilizer. On my kit, the wing and horizontal stabilizer were not parallel. I lightly sanded the high side of the stabilizer saddle and added two strips of Scotch tape as a shim on the low side to even things out. I used a tilt meter on my smartphone to ensure that both surfaces were parallel … there’s an app for that!
There are ample air inlets in the Rifle 1M’s nose, as well as a sizeable outlet behind the wing. I mounted my Futaba R617FS receiver below the outlet hole. Manipulating the servo plugs into place by working through the fuselage opening reminded me of the game called Operation that I played when I was a kid (but without the telltale buzzer!).
I had to trim a sharp layer of untrimmed fiberglass that protruded inside this area of the fuselage. It wasn’t a structural or cosmetic issue, but I thought it would eventually fray the servo leads bundled here.
The Rifle 1M requires you to remove the wing to access the battery. For most of my similar models, I have added an arming plug so that I can arm the power system without removing the wing. It’s a prudent safety precaution.
The Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC offers the same capability with a slightly different approach. One of its optional (and currently free) add-ons is an ESC arming lock. It is a small receptacle that prevents the ESC from arming, or disarms it when the plastic key is inserted. I mounted the receptacle to a scrap piece of sheet plastic and glued it under the rear of the air-exit opening.
To aid in separating the hook-and-loop tape that secures the battery, the kit includes a plastic spatula (it works surprisingly well). I’ve modified the spatula into a field kit for the Rifle 1M. It now features tethers that hold the ESC arming key and a hex wrench for the wing bolts. It’s a handy way to manage the tools I need for a quick battery swap.
Great Planes includes the parts to assemble a small CG stand for use on the Rifle. It’s a neat idea, but I found the vertical posts too flexible for the job. I may slightly shorten them and see if that improves things.
Because I started with the sport setup, I installed an APC 5.25 x 6.25 propeller and a FlightPower 2S 2,100 mAh LiPo battery. The entire battery must be forward of the wing opening to get the right CG, but the spatula makes installation and removal easy. With the heavier Great Planes 3S 2,200 mAh LiPo used on the speed version, the pack is accessible through the wing saddle.
I set up the controls on my Futaba 7C radio exactly as described in the Rifle 1M manual, including exponential settings. I also programmed the recommended spoileron feature using the Airbrake function on the 7C. It’s straightforward radio programming.
After two short build sessions, the Rifle 1M was ready to fly. I was pleased that it was within the suggested weight range in the sport or speed configurations. Static power testing showed a smooth-running motor with plenty of power.

Flying the Rifle 1M
Even with the sport setup, the Rifle 1M doesn’t need a grunting Hail Mary heave to get going. The required effort is more akin to a game of backyard catch. Keep it level and you shouldn’t have any drama.
My Rifle 1M required a significant amount of aileron trim on its maiden flight. I later determined that my lateral balance was off. Pay attention to that detail! After correcting the balance issue, I neutralized the trim.
The first thing I noticed about the Rifle 1M was how quiet it is in the air. Even with the motor wide open, it quickly whooshed by. I don’t doubt Great Planes’ claim of a 90 mph top speed with the sport setup. That speed isn’t much faster than many .40-size sport airplanes. The Rifle’s small stature and hushed volume, however, make it a thrilling ride.
The Rifle is capable of streaking through the sky, but it doesn’t have to. I prefer to spend a majority of my flights at half throttle or less—just grooving around the field. The sleek little airplane behaves well at these moderate speeds. It lets you know when you’re getting too slow by responding with mushy aileron response.
Because of its stable low-throttle behavior and impressive speed at full gallop, I think the Rifle 1M sport setup is an ideal gateway into the world of composite racers. It will allow you to slowly expand your speed comfort zone while forcing you to become accustomed to the demands of visually tracking a svelte aircraft. The colorful paint is good for orientation when you have a broadside perspective, but the Rifle 1M nearly disappears when you view it head on.
I prefer flying with low-rate elevator and high-rate ailerons. These throws are good for smooth flying and big aerobatics. The altitude of your loops is limited only by your vision. Rolls and inverted flight are no problem. Cuban 8s and Immelmann turns look best when using a lot of sky. Anything more aggressive would be out of character for this type of airplane.
After getting comfortable with the sport setup, I switched to speed mode. The Rifle 1M could still cruise around at moderate speeds, but it is noticeably faster when the stick is pushed forward. Great Planes claims the aircraft can reach a speed of 130 mph, and I don’t doubt it.
What a rush it is to bring the airplane whistling over the runway and then whip it into a high-G pylon turn! Trust me—you will be turning often to keep the airplane in your sight!
With either setup, you’ll want to plan far ahead for landing. The Rifle carries plenty of energy and takes time and real estate to slow down. I typically deploy the spoilerons (which doesn’t cause a trim change for me) before entering the pattern and kill the throttle on the downwind leg. I still occasionally overshot the runway and had to go around. Keep a stash of propellers handy in case you excel at finding mole hills and divots on your runway!

Conclusion
There is no doubt that the Great Planes Rifle 1-Meter Sport Electric is capable of impressive speeds. What I found more impressive, however, is that it is not a one-trick pony. The model minds its manners when I throttle back to catch my breath, while still being competent with low-power aerobatics.
When the flight is over, the battery is easily accessible. I think that aspiring speedsters will find the Rifle 1M an unintimidating way to shift their flying skills into overdrive.

Author: Terry Dunn


Edition: Model Aviation - 2014/06
Page Numbers: 59,60,61,62

If you like to fly fast, or maybe just want to give it a try, there are plenty of models that will scratch that itch. The problem with these speedsters is that they often sacrifice practicality for a few more miles per hour. It’s similar to driving a top fuel dragster to work. Sure it’s fun to leave the minivan drivers agape at the stoplights, but parking is a real pain!
It would be better to have something fast and sensible. That’s the idea behind the Great Planes Rifle 1M. This model is intended for fliers who have a speed jones, but would rather not deal with the hassles of a go-for-broke velocity demon.
The Rifle 1M appears similar in design to many electric Pylon racers, including its predecessor, the original Rifle. The main difference is that this new iteration is several inches longer and has a larger wingspan. This makes the 1M easier to see in the air and provides more room for its components.
Great Planes provides sport (90 mph top speed) and speed (130 mph) configurations in the Rifle 1M. These options use the same motor, so I will review both. Going from one setup to the other requires switching the propeller and battery. You can get a feel for the airplane in the sport mode, and then stretch its legs with the speed configuration—all in the same outing.

Putting It Together
When I opened the box, I was surprised by how few parts it contained. There is the one-piece wing with attached ailerons, hollow fiberglass fuselage, horizontal stabilizer, and a small bag of parts. All of the airframe parts come painted in an orange, white, and black color scheme. My kit showed some color bleeding in a few areas, but it’s only visible up close. Overall, I was impressed by the parts’ quality and finish.
I used the recommended power system and radio components throughout the airplane, including the Ammo 28-45-3600 brushless motor. The kit includes a plywood template for drilling out the carbon-fiber firewall, which makes the job easy.
My skin is sensitive to carbon-fiber dust, so before drilling I stuffed a moist paper towel behind the firewall and covered the air inlets with masking tape. This helped me manage the dust and keep it off of my skin and out of my lungs.
Although the Rifle 1M has a roomier interior than many other molded speedsters, it helps to plan your equipment locations to make best use of the space. Think of it as aeronautical feng shui.
I was impressed that the assembly manual illustrates the ideal length to cut the ESC’s motor leads for an easy fit. I followed these instructions on my Castle Creations Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC and it worked out perfectly.
The Rifle 1M includes a nice aluminum collet-type spinner, which mates perfectly with the Ammo’s motor shaft. The shaft, however, must be shortened by a few millimeters to get the proper spacing between the spinner and firewall. The manual suggests using a Dremel cut-off wheel for this job, but I opted to use my bench grinder. Either option works.
Some modelers may be surprised that the Rifle 1M uses simple metal pushrods with Z-bends on every control surface. Although they appear somewhat rudimentary on a high-performance airplane such as this, Z-bends are actually a robust and dependable choice. If you’ve ever tried to get good Z-bends with needle-nose pliers, you know how tough it can be. I started using Hobbico Z-bend pliers a few years ago and haven’t looked back.
I was glad to see that the pushrod wire in the kit was a perfect fit for the predrilled holes in the control horns and the servo horns that came with my Futaba S3156 digital servos. That resulted in zero slop at the control surfaces. Although a sport airplane can typically tolerate a little play in the control system, a fast airplane such as the Rifle 1M should have tight linkages from end to end.
Great Planes recommends gluing in the single elevator servo and two aileron servos using Zap Goo adhesive. I used Amazing Goop (a similar adhesive) and it is holding up well. With either choice, be careful to keep the glue away from the wing’s foam core.
The vertical stabilizer is an integral part of the fiberglass fuselage and it is topped with a saddle for the horizontal stabilizer. On my kit, the wing and horizontal stabilizer were not parallel. I lightly sanded the high side of the stabilizer saddle and added two strips of Scotch tape as a shim on the low side to even things out. I used a tilt meter on my smartphone to ensure that both surfaces were parallel … there’s an app for that!
There are ample air inlets in the Rifle 1M’s nose, as well as a sizeable outlet behind the wing. I mounted my Futaba R617FS receiver below the outlet hole. Manipulating the servo plugs into place by working through the fuselage opening reminded me of the game called Operation that I played when I was a kid (but without the telltale buzzer!).
I had to trim a sharp layer of untrimmed fiberglass that protruded inside this area of the fuselage. It wasn’t a structural or cosmetic issue, but I thought it would eventually fray the servo leads bundled here.
The Rifle 1M requires you to remove the wing to access the battery. For most of my similar models, I have added an arming plug so that I can arm the power system without removing the wing. It’s a prudent safety precaution.
The Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC offers the same capability with a slightly different approach. One of its optional (and currently free) add-ons is an ESC arming lock. It is a small receptacle that prevents the ESC from arming, or disarms it when the plastic key is inserted. I mounted the receptacle to a scrap piece of sheet plastic and glued it under the rear of the air-exit opening.
To aid in separating the hook-and-loop tape that secures the battery, the kit includes a plastic spatula (it works surprisingly well). I’ve modified the spatula into a field kit for the Rifle 1M. It now features tethers that hold the ESC arming key and a hex wrench for the wing bolts. It’s a handy way to manage the tools I need for a quick battery swap.
Great Planes includes the parts to assemble a small CG stand for use on the Rifle. It’s a neat idea, but I found the vertical posts too flexible for the job. I may slightly shorten them and see if that improves things.
Because I started with the sport setup, I installed an APC 5.25 x 6.25 propeller and a FlightPower 2S 2,100 mAh LiPo battery. The entire battery must be forward of the wing opening to get the right CG, but the spatula makes installation and removal easy. With the heavier Great Planes 3S 2,200 mAh LiPo used on the speed version, the pack is accessible through the wing saddle.
I set up the controls on my Futaba 7C radio exactly as described in the Rifle 1M manual, including exponential settings. I also programmed the recommended spoileron feature using the Airbrake function on the 7C. It’s straightforward radio programming.
After two short build sessions, the Rifle 1M was ready to fly. I was pleased that it was within the suggested weight range in the sport or speed configurations. Static power testing showed a smooth-running motor with plenty of power.

Flying the Rifle 1M
Even with the sport setup, the Rifle 1M doesn’t need a grunting Hail Mary heave to get going. The required effort is more akin to a game of backyard catch. Keep it level and you shouldn’t have any drama.
My Rifle 1M required a significant amount of aileron trim on its maiden flight. I later determined that my lateral balance was off. Pay attention to that detail! After correcting the balance issue, I neutralized the trim.
The first thing I noticed about the Rifle 1M was how quiet it is in the air. Even with the motor wide open, it quickly whooshed by. I don’t doubt Great Planes’ claim of a 90 mph top speed with the sport setup. That speed isn’t much faster than many .40-size sport airplanes. The Rifle’s small stature and hushed volume, however, make it a thrilling ride.
The Rifle is capable of streaking through the sky, but it doesn’t have to. I prefer to spend a majority of my flights at half throttle or less—just grooving around the field. The sleek little airplane behaves well at these moderate speeds. It lets you know when you’re getting too slow by responding with mushy aileron response.
Because of its stable low-throttle behavior and impressive speed at full gallop, I think the Rifle 1M sport setup is an ideal gateway into the world of composite racers. It will allow you to slowly expand your speed comfort zone while forcing you to become accustomed to the demands of visually tracking a svelte aircraft. The colorful paint is good for orientation when you have a broadside perspective, but the Rifle 1M nearly disappears when you view it head on.
I prefer flying with low-rate elevator and high-rate ailerons. These throws are good for smooth flying and big aerobatics. The altitude of your loops is limited only by your vision. Rolls and inverted flight are no problem. Cuban 8s and Immelmann turns look best when using a lot of sky. Anything more aggressive would be out of character for this type of airplane.
After getting comfortable with the sport setup, I switched to speed mode. The Rifle 1M could still cruise around at moderate speeds, but it is noticeably faster when the stick is pushed forward. Great Planes claims the aircraft can reach a speed of 130 mph, and I don’t doubt it.
What a rush it is to bring the airplane whistling over the runway and then whip it into a high-G pylon turn! Trust me—you will be turning often to keep the airplane in your sight!
With either setup, you’ll want to plan far ahead for landing. The Rifle carries plenty of energy and takes time and real estate to slow down. I typically deploy the spoilerons (which doesn’t cause a trim change for me) before entering the pattern and kill the throttle on the downwind leg. I still occasionally overshot the runway and had to go around. Keep a stash of propellers handy in case you excel at finding mole hills and divots on your runway!

Conclusion
There is no doubt that the Great Planes Rifle 1-Meter Sport Electric is capable of impressive speeds. What I found more impressive, however, is that it is not a one-trick pony. The model minds its manners when I throttle back to catch my breath, while still being competent with low-power aerobatics.
When the flight is over, the battery is easily accessible. I think that aspiring speedsters will find the Rifle 1M an unintimidating way to shift their flying skills into overdrive.

Author: Terry Dunn


Edition: Model Aviation - 2014/06
Page Numbers: 59,60,61,62

If you like to fly fast, or maybe just want to give it a try, there are plenty of models that will scratch that itch. The problem with these speedsters is that they often sacrifice practicality for a few more miles per hour. It’s similar to driving a top fuel dragster to work. Sure it’s fun to leave the minivan drivers agape at the stoplights, but parking is a real pain!
It would be better to have something fast and sensible. That’s the idea behind the Great Planes Rifle 1M. This model is intended for fliers who have a speed jones, but would rather not deal with the hassles of a go-for-broke velocity demon.
The Rifle 1M appears similar in design to many electric Pylon racers, including its predecessor, the original Rifle. The main difference is that this new iteration is several inches longer and has a larger wingspan. This makes the 1M easier to see in the air and provides more room for its components.
Great Planes provides sport (90 mph top speed) and speed (130 mph) configurations in the Rifle 1M. These options use the same motor, so I will review both. Going from one setup to the other requires switching the propeller and battery. You can get a feel for the airplane in the sport mode, and then stretch its legs with the speed configuration—all in the same outing.

Putting It Together
When I opened the box, I was surprised by how few parts it contained. There is the one-piece wing with attached ailerons, hollow fiberglass fuselage, horizontal stabilizer, and a small bag of parts. All of the airframe parts come painted in an orange, white, and black color scheme. My kit showed some color bleeding in a few areas, but it’s only visible up close. Overall, I was impressed by the parts’ quality and finish.
I used the recommended power system and radio components throughout the airplane, including the Ammo 28-45-3600 brushless motor. The kit includes a plywood template for drilling out the carbon-fiber firewall, which makes the job easy.
My skin is sensitive to carbon-fiber dust, so before drilling I stuffed a moist paper towel behind the firewall and covered the air inlets with masking tape. This helped me manage the dust and keep it off of my skin and out of my lungs.
Although the Rifle 1M has a roomier interior than many other molded speedsters, it helps to plan your equipment locations to make best use of the space. Think of it as aeronautical feng shui.
I was impressed that the assembly manual illustrates the ideal length to cut the ESC’s motor leads for an easy fit. I followed these instructions on my Castle Creations Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC and it worked out perfectly.
The Rifle 1M includes a nice aluminum collet-type spinner, which mates perfectly with the Ammo’s motor shaft. The shaft, however, must be shortened by a few millimeters to get the proper spacing between the spinner and firewall. The manual suggests using a Dremel cut-off wheel for this job, but I opted to use my bench grinder. Either option works.
Some modelers may be surprised that the Rifle 1M uses simple metal pushrods with Z-bends on every control surface. Although they appear somewhat rudimentary on a high-performance airplane such as this, Z-bends are actually a robust and dependable choice. If you’ve ever tried to get good Z-bends with needle-nose pliers, you know how tough it can be. I started using Hobbico Z-bend pliers a few years ago and haven’t looked back.
I was glad to see that the pushrod wire in the kit was a perfect fit for the predrilled holes in the control horns and the servo horns that came with my Futaba S3156 digital servos. That resulted in zero slop at the control surfaces. Although a sport airplane can typically tolerate a little play in the control system, a fast airplane such as the Rifle 1M should have tight linkages from end to end.
Great Planes recommends gluing in the single elevator servo and two aileron servos using Zap Goo adhesive. I used Amazing Goop (a similar adhesive) and it is holding up well. With either choice, be careful to keep the glue away from the wing’s foam core.
The vertical stabilizer is an integral part of the fiberglass fuselage and it is topped with a saddle for the horizontal stabilizer. On my kit, the wing and horizontal stabilizer were not parallel. I lightly sanded the high side of the stabilizer saddle and added two strips of Scotch tape as a shim on the low side to even things out. I used a tilt meter on my smartphone to ensure that both surfaces were parallel … there’s an app for that!
There are ample air inlets in the Rifle 1M’s nose, as well as a sizeable outlet behind the wing. I mounted my Futaba R617FS receiver below the outlet hole. Manipulating the servo plugs into place by working through the fuselage opening reminded me of the game called Operation that I played when I was a kid (but without the telltale buzzer!).
I had to trim a sharp layer of untrimmed fiberglass that protruded inside this area of the fuselage. It wasn’t a structural or cosmetic issue, but I thought it would eventually fray the servo leads bundled here.
The Rifle 1M requires you to remove the wing to access the battery. For most of my similar models, I have added an arming plug so that I can arm the power system without removing the wing. It’s a prudent safety precaution.
The Phoenix Edge Lite 50 ESC offers the same capability with a slightly different approach. One of its optional (and currently free) add-ons is an ESC arming lock. It is a small receptacle that prevents the ESC from arming, or disarms it when the plastic key is inserted. I mounted the receptacle to a scrap piece of sheet plastic and glued it under the rear of the air-exit opening.
To aid in separating the hook-and-loop tape that secures the battery, the kit includes a plastic spatula (it works surprisingly well). I’ve modified the spatula into a field kit for the Rifle 1M. It now features tethers that hold the ESC arming key and a hex wrench for the wing bolts. It’s a handy way to manage the tools I need for a quick battery swap.
Great Planes includes the parts to assemble a small CG stand for use on the Rifle. It’s a neat idea, but I found the vertical posts too flexible for the job. I may slightly shorten them and see if that improves things.
Because I started with the sport setup, I installed an APC 5.25 x 6.25 propeller and a FlightPower 2S 2,100 mAh LiPo battery. The entire battery must be forward of the wing opening to get the right CG, but the spatula makes installation and removal easy. With the heavier Great Planes 3S 2,200 mAh LiPo used on the speed version, the pack is accessible through the wing saddle.
I set up the controls on my Futaba 7C radio exactly as described in the Rifle 1M manual, including exponential settings. I also programmed the recommended spoileron feature using the Airbrake function on the 7C. It’s straightforward radio programming.
After two short build sessions, the Rifle 1M was ready to fly. I was pleased that it was within the suggested weight range in the sport or speed configurations. Static power testing showed a smooth-running motor with plenty of power.

Flying the Rifle 1M
Even with the sport setup, the Rifle 1M doesn’t need a grunting Hail Mary heave to get going. The required effort is more akin to a game of backyard catch. Keep it level and you shouldn’t have any drama.
My Rifle 1M required a significant amount of aileron trim on its maiden flight. I later determined that my lateral balance was off. Pay attention to that detail! After correcting the balance issue, I neutralized the trim.
The first thing I noticed about the Rifle 1M was how quiet it is in the air. Even with the motor wide open, it quickly whooshed by. I don’t doubt Great Planes’ claim of a 90 mph top speed with the sport setup. That speed isn’t much faster than many .40-size sport airplanes. The Rifle’s small stature and hushed volume, however, make it a thrilling ride.
The Rifle is capable of streaking through the sky, but it doesn’t have to. I prefer to spend a majority of my flights at half throttle or less—just grooving around the field. The sleek little airplane behaves well at these moderate speeds. It lets you know when you’re getting too slow by responding with mushy aileron response.
Because of its stable low-throttle behavior and impressive speed at full gallop, I think the Rifle 1M sport setup is an ideal gateway into the world of composite racers. It will allow you to slowly expand your speed comfort zone while forcing you to become accustomed to the demands of visually tracking a svelte aircraft. The colorful paint is good for orientation when you have a broadside perspective, but the Rifle 1M nearly disappears when you view it head on.
I prefer flying with low-rate elevator and high-rate ailerons. These throws are good for smooth flying and big aerobatics. The altitude of your loops is limited only by your vision. Rolls and inverted flight are no problem. Cuban 8s and Immelmann turns look best when using a lot of sky. Anything more aggressive would be out of character for this type of airplane.
After getting comfortable with the sport setup, I switched to speed mode. The Rifle 1M could still cruise around at moderate speeds, but it is noticeably faster when the stick is pushed forward. Great Planes claims the aircraft can reach a speed of 130 mph, and I don’t doubt it.
What a rush it is to bring the airplane whistling over the runway and then whip it into a high-G pylon turn! Trust me—you will be turning often to keep the airplane in your sight!
With either setup, you’ll want to plan far ahead for landing. The Rifle carries plenty of energy and takes time and real estate to slow down. I typically deploy the spoilerons (which doesn’t cause a trim change for me) before entering the pattern and kill the throttle on the downwind leg. I still occasionally overshot the runway and had to go around. Keep a stash of propellers handy in case you excel at finding mole hills and divots on your runway!

Conclusion
There is no doubt that the Great Planes Rifle 1-Meter Sport Electric is capable of impressive speeds. What I found more impressive, however, is that it is not a one-trick pony. The model minds its manners when I throttle back to catch my breath, while still being competent with low-power aerobatics.
When the flight is over, the battery is easily accessible. I think that aspiring speedsters will find the Rifle 1M an unintimidating way to shift their flying skills into overdrive.

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