HIS IS THE start of a new series
which has the sole purpose of
attracting people to the hobby and
sport of model aviation. Notice that I
wrote “hobby” and “sport”; the hobby
aspect involves building and assembling
model aircraft, and the sport part involves
the flying. As you will quickly learn, you
don’t have to be a builder to be a flier! But
as time goes along, I hope you will want to
learn to do both.
Throughout this series it is our intention
to explain all facets of model aviation.
Monthly articles geared toward the beginner
and the intermediate will become a regular
from now on. Sometimes a single subject
will be presented, and at other times you
may see several subjects in a single month.
Magazine issues tend to get lost or
misplaced. Unless you faithfully make your
own scrapbook of information, data retrieval
becomes a problem. The Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA) has every intention of
making this series available on CD-ROM
and on a dedicated Web site. In both cases,
the idea is to make all the information
accessible and easy to locate for as long as
you need it.
In addition to monthly articles, it is also
hoped to publish key questions readers ask.
These FAQs (Frequently-Asked Questions)
will be cataloged by subject matter and
placed on CD-ROM and in Web-site format
for the aid of the beginners.
Where to Start? You might be out driving
on a summer day and pass by a modelaircraft
flying field. You see a model in the
sky maneuvering much like a full-scale
airplane. At first you might think it is a fullscale
airplane. You stop and watch, then
think “I’d like to try that.” But how do you
take that first step?
That is the purpose of this series: to tell
you how to get started, how to learn about
model aviation, and how to learn to
build/assemble and fly these airplanes. Even
70 MODEL AVIATION
Virtually any type of full-scale airplane can be replicated as a Scale model in a variety of
sizes. This Scale Aerobatics model is on display at a trade show.
Radio Control sailplanes can be simple two-channel gliders or sophisticated
multichannel and multifunction machines. Photo by Michael Smith.
■ Bob Aberle
T
Introduction to
Aeromodeling
03sig3.QXD 12.20.02 8:14 am Page 70
March 2003 71
This GWS RC transmitter is a simple beginner-type unit. It has
only the basic four flight-control channels.
This JR Remote Control of Japan transmitter is a good advanced,
microprocessor, programmable-type unit.
This is the complete Hitec Laser 6 RC system. It is a six-channel
unit that can expand with your abilities.
if you are already into model aviation, it is hoped that this series
might open the door to areas you were not previously familiar with.
You have seen your first model airplane in flight. What next?
The best place to start is to attend a few flying sessions at a local
flying field and initially just watch what is going on. Most local
flying fields are operated by clubs which are chartered by AMA—
the organization that, among other things, publishes Model
Aviation.
Besides observing, you will have modelers to talk to and you
can ask some basic questions as a starting point. Being referred to
this magazine and this “beginner series” is a good first step. There
are other magazines available with different types of model-aircraft
specialties, books for beginners, Internet digests and chat groups,
hobby trade shows in different parts of the country, and even
instructional videotapes, all of which can prove extremely helpful.
AMA can provide lists of all this supporting material.
After a visit or two to the flying field, ask where the local club
meets and if it takes on new members. If the answer is yes, find the
location and time and attend a meeting to see what it is like.
Learning to build and fly model aircraft is best done with the help
of experienced modelers. You could learn on your own, especially
if you live in a remote location, but it will take much more time.
You may have been “introduced” to model aviation by reading
A field-support kit outfitted for your particular type of flying is
essential. This is an Electric modeler’s flight box, complete with
twin battery chargers. File photo.
Old-Timer and antique models can be fun. Larry Davidson is
shown with his outstanding Veco Dakota biplane Free Flight
model.
Photos by the author except as noted
03sig3.QXD 12.20.02 8:14 am Page 71
This Bantam Bipe from SR Batteries is a good
example of an electric park-flyer model. It’s light
and maneuverable.
The FunTec Sky Scooter Pro-II is a Ready-to-Fly (RTF) electric
model. It comes assembled and includes the RC gear.
This Sig CAP 231EX is an Almost Ready-to-Fly (ARF). These
models typically take only a few hours to assemble. File photo.
Radio Control Pylon Racing is an exciting form of flying. Things happen fast,
so good reflexes and reliable equipment are musts. File photo.
This is the place to start in RC; a simple, rugged, and reliable trainer will teach
you the necessary fundamentals on which to build. File photo.
Although it’s still moderately expensive, turbine power offers
realistic jet flight sound and performance. File photo.
If competition is your thing, there are dozens of meets for each
type of flying every year. This is a sailplane contest. File photo.
72 MODEL AVIATION
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March 2003 73
This is a Free Flight Scale model. It is designed to operate without any sort of guidance
except trim that is adjusted in before flight. File photo.
Radio Control helicopters offer a change
of pace. They are challenging but
extremely fun to fly. File photo.
CL models are flown via two wires that attach to a control
mechanism at the airplane end and a handle at the pilot’s end.
File photo.
This is a fine Radio Control Scale model. Almost any type of
model can be built and flown successfully. File photo.
No matter what type of flying excites you, build or buy a model, read MA for the
information, and join the fun! File photo.
Indoor or micro RC is a recent, popular
development. Extremely light models can fly at
slow speeds in confined areas. File photo.
03sig3.QXD 12.20.02 8:16 am Page 73
magazine and catalog advertisements.
Catalogs placed in the seat pockets of
various airlines often advertise Ready-to-Fly
(RTF) models. Your children may have even
seen these ads or heard others talk about the
hobby, and now you want to know more.
Another excellent and basic way to get
started in model aviation is to visit a local
hobby shop. The AMA Web site has a
button on the front page—“Hobby Shop
Locator”—that will help you find one.
Hobby shops are owned and staffed by
74 MODEL AVIATION
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modelers. They can easily inform you of
local flying fields and local model-aircraft
clubs. Again we are back to “fields” and
“clubs.”
The local hobby dealer can also outline
for you what it will take to get started.
There will certainly be an initial outlay of
money to buy the necessary equipment.
Certain decisions must be made at the start
to guide you in the right direction. Again,
that is the purpose of this series.
What is Available? Model aviation today is
greatly involved with radio-controlled
flying. The idea is that a pilot holds a
control device known as a transmitter.
Coded radio wave signals are broadcast to
the model airplane, where they are decoded
and result in discrete flying commands
(instructions) that control the model while
in flight.
Although Radio Control (RC) is the
primary interest in our hobby, it is not the
only interest. As this series expands, you
will learn more about the different facets of
the hobby. There are free-flying (Free Flight
[FF]) models that operate without the help
of radio control; models that fly in circles,
attached by steel wires to a control handle
held by the pilot (Control Line [CL]);
models without engines (sailplanes); and a
long list of specialty aircraft that make this
hobby so interesting and entertaining for
every family member.
03sig3.QXD 12.20.02 8:17 am Page 74
March 2003 77
What Do You Really Need? RC is one of
the easier ways to enter the hobby, allowing
you to quickly make that first solo flight,
much like a full-scale pilot.
At the minimum, you will need a basic
RC system, which will cost approximately
$200. The details of all this will be explained
as we move along in this series. The
purchase of that first RC system is
essentially a nonrecurring cost. That same
radio can be transferred from model to
model, year after year. I fly with two
different systems I have owned for more
than 10 years, and they still work like new.
The next item, which is probably as
important as the RC system, is your choice
of model aircraft. There are several options
available. If your time is limited and the
most important thing for you is to get out
and fly, an RTF model might be best for you.
This is a rather new concept in our hobby
so the choices are few, but it is possible to
purchase a model already built with an RC
system and motor already installed. All
that’s left is an hour or so of final
adjustments, to charge the batteries, then
you’re headed for the field. RTFs can be
purchased at modest prices that might
surprise you. Replacement parts are offered
in case you damage your model in the course
of learning to fly (and you will crash on
occasion!).
A second option is an Almost Ready-to-
Fly (ARF) model. As the name implies,
these aircraft are essentially constructed and
covered, but they require more final
assembly than RTFs. In most cases you will
have to install your own RC system and the
motor or engine.
At this point I should explain that in our
hobby an “engine” is what we call an
internal-combustion power plant that
requires fuel. A “motor” is electric and runs
off a battery.
The advantage of ARFs is that there are
literally hundreds available in all sizes,
types, and prices. They are available from
basic trainers up through the most
complicated advanced aerobatic models. For
the most part, final assembly will only
require a few days of your time. After that,
you can head out to the flying field.
The third possibility is to build your own
model from a kit or from purchased raw
materials (known as “scratch building”).
Constructing your own airplane takes the
most time and requires that you develop the
necessary skills to do so. You have to learn
construction techniques, how to use various
cements, and how to cover and paint the
model. All of this takes time, and if done
improperly it can only make the flying
aspect more difficult.
I design most of my own models;
therefore, they are all scratch built. But I
also have time constraints, so I supplement
my “fleet” of models with several ARF
designs. I enjoy those ARFs as much as
my own airplanes; there is nothing wrong
with going that route.
However, I suggest that everyone
eventually try to construct a model or two
from kits, even if you regularly fly ARFs.
The lessons you learn from doing that will
provide extra experience when you are
assembling and repairing your ARFs. As
you gain building experience, you might
want to consider expanding to other areas of
model aviation, such as FF, CL, rubber
power, hand-launched gliders, and other
models that do not require radio control.
(Plans are to have specialized articles
covering all aspects of model construction
as this series progresses.)
After you have an idea about the RC
system and the model itself, the next
consideration is the power source. The
primary choice today is glow-fueled engines
or electric motors/batteries. Each has
advantages and disadvantages. We will get
into that in due time.
The size of your engine or motor must
take into account the size and estimated
weight of your model. This is where an
experienced modeler can help you the best.
Generally the ARF or kit you buy will
provide the proper recommendations.
Depending on your choice of engine or
motor, you will have to purchase fieldsupport
equipment. For the engine you will
need fuel, a fuel pump to get the fuel from
the container to the aircraft tank, a starter
motor to help flip the propeller, propellers
(of the correct size), wrenches, and a glowplug
lighter (or igniter). For electric power
03sig3.QXD 12.20.02 1:11 pm Page 77
you must purchase extra battery packs and
a suitable field type rapid charger.
Today the choice of glow fuel or
electric power is roughly equal. Fueled
engines are reliable and basically easy to
operate. However, there is a lot of fuel
residue to clean up after a flying session,
and the engines do make a great deal of
noise, even with the use of standard
mufflers. Electric power is clean and quiet
but requires more power management to
obtain the best results.
Either way you go, it is advisable to get
some sort of field kit or box, preferably
one that has brackets on top to hold your
model. This box should include a variety
of tools necessary to support the flight of
your model. If you have to travel a long
distance to a flying field then you realize
you forgot an essential item, you will
quickly learn to take inventory and prepare
a good checklist.
Now that you have the RC system, the
model airplane, the engine/motor, and all
the supporting equipment, you are ready
for that first flight.
Flying: Remember this suggestion: get
help! Don’t try to do it on your own
because you may never make that first
flight. I don’t want you to walk away from
this wonderful hobby/sport without having
at least accomplished the basic goal of
solo flight. Anyone can do it, although it
can take time and patience.
As we progress in this series, you will
learn firsthand the tricks necessary to
enjoy radio-controlled flight. We will
introduce you to RC simulators, which are
really quite effective, to self-stabilizing
devices which maintain a level model
attitude, and to trainer cables that allow
you and your instructor to have access to
the same transmitter controls.
Flight Safety: Before the conclusion of
this first installment, the beginner must
understand several important safety rules
regarding flying radio-controlled models.
All of these rules can be found in the
AMA Membership Manual, which you
receive when you join the organization.
The most important thing you must
understand is that two RC systems on the
same channel (or frequency) will interfere
with one another. We have 50 channels
made available to us by the FCC (Federal
Communications Commission) that
operate between 72 and 73 MHz. These
channels are expressly for the control of
model aircraft. There are 30 additional
channels appropriated on the 75 MHz band
for what we call the control of “surface
vehicles” (such as RC cars, boats, robots,
etc.).
At any flying field you will see a form
of frequency or channel control in effect.
When you arrive at that field for the first
time, have a member or local flier fill you
in on the control procedure for that
particular site. It often involves the use of
frequency or channel clips or clothespins.
All 50 pins may be displayed on a
board. When you want to fly, you take the
pin designating your particular RC channel
off the board and clip it to your transmitter
antenna. If anyone comes up to the board
after you and sees that the clip is gone,
he/she must wait for you to return it. This
is basic stuff but most necessary.
Another important safety rule involves
flying in close proximity to other flying
fields. AMA has determined that it is
unsafe to have two adjacent model flying
fields closer than three miles apart. You
must make sure, as a beginner, that you
don’t attempt to fly on your own too close
to an existing flying field. If you do and
you are on the same channel as another
modeler, either one or both of you could
crash. Always be alert and concerned
about where the other person is flying.
That concludes part one. Any comments,
questions, and suggestions you have as
this series develops are welcome. The
whole idea of this is to allow our hobby to
maintain itself and hopefully to grow!
Each item mentioned in this article will be
greatly expanded upon in the next few
months so that you gain the proper
experience to fully enjoy the hobby and
sport of model aviation. Please help make
it a success. MA
Bob Aberle
03sig3.QXD 12.20.02 1:10 pm Page 78
