Jerry's Connector Idea
by Jerry Smith
Many aeromodelers lack the ability to solder. Why? Because we are not required to do so often. However, most of us who are involved with electric-powered models need to do it regularly, especially when it comes to connectors and other wiring.
Soldering is the fastest and most reliable way to join metals. A soldered joint is mechanically stable and electrically efficient. However, solders are incapable of taking a great deal of stress or movement. That, in addition to its insulating properties, is why it is good to use heat-shrink tubing over the joint.
I ran into a problem soldering a large stranded wire to the lug on a Deans Ultra Connector and was unsatisfied with the outcome, even with my soldering skills. The real problem was that there was no mechanical connection between the wire and connector lug. I had to hold the wire to the lug while soldering, which became problematic.
I devised a small brass insert that makes soldering easier by providing a good mechanical connection between the wire and the lug. The little brass connector shown does exactly that, providing a more effective means of soldering to the Ultra.
Tools and materials
- Material: 5/32-inch OD brass tubing (optimum size to fit the lug and various wires for ESCs and batteries)
- Tools: vise, Dremel cutoff wheel, needle-nose pliers
Don't get discouraged if the first connector doesn't turn out perfectly. The more you make, the easier it gets. Follow the step-by-step method and you'll save yourself the trouble of searching for a pre-made part—there may be one available, but making your own is quick and effective.
Soldering Hints
To make a proper solder connection, you need:
- A source of heat.
- Clean metal surfaces to be joined.
- A suitable grade of solder.
- Flux.
Rosin-core solder with flux in the core is suitable for most electrical applications. You rarely need additional flux with rosin-core solder. Make sure the items to be soldered are clean. Make a good mechanical connection by wrapping wires around each piece, around a terminal, or capturing them in a lug. When applying heat, do not apply solder directly at the tip of the iron. Place a small amount of solder on the tip first to help carry heat from the iron to the joint. Heat the base metal until it is hot enough to melt the solder and allow it to flow into the joint. After applying solder, slide the iron away to leave the joint neat. Avoid using excessive heat and don't apply more solder than needed. It is advisable to pre-tin components—especially stranded wire—before final assembly.
I hope these thoughts steer you in the right direction and that you find this little connector helpful. It will certainly make life easier when it comes time to solder wires on the Ultra. Happy soldering!
— Jerry Smith [email protected]
Sources:
- W.S. Deans Co., (714) 828-6494, www.wsdeans.com
Parting the Ultra Connection
The W.S. Deans Ultra Connector is robust in many ways, including when it comes time to disconnect it. Pulling it apart sometimes requires a good tug, and it becomes harder to maintain a grip if your hands are sweaty.
I know a couple of easy methods to make it easier to separate the connector. I've tried both; they work well and are simple to do.
Method 1: Sandpaper grip
- Cut small pieces of sandpaper (I used 100 grit).
- Glue the pieces onto the sides of each connector.
I used Mercury Adhesives M100XF CA to glue the sandpaper. This CA offers outstanding performance, grabs quickly, and holds the paper securely. I use it for many building projects.
Method 2: Melted divots
- Use a soldering iron with a pointed tip to melt a few small divots on the side surfaces of each connector.
- Touch briefly—do not hold the iron there too long. A 40-watt iron with a pointed tip works fine.
Each melted divot displaces material above the surface, creating roughness for better gripping. It works great and is a cinch to do.
— Jerry Smith
Sources:
- Mercury Adhesives, (770) 886-9566, www.mercuryadhesives.com
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
