SPECIFICATIONS
Model type: CL kit
Skill level: Intermediate builder; intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 42 inches
Wing area: 385 square inches
Length: 29 inches
Flying weight: 26.8 ounces
Needed to complete: Glow (.19-.35) or electric (480-size) power system
Construction: Laser-cut balsa and plywood
Street price: $129.95 (kit only)
PLUSES
• Parts are included to build as either a glow- or electric-powered model.
• Laser-cut interlocking parts.
• Includes all necessary hardware.
• Illustrated instruction manual.
• The size of the model makes it easy to transport.
For many years, the Ringmaster has been a favorite of modelers around the world. The S-1 profile Ringmaster was introduced in kit form in the early 1950s. Since then, additions to the name Ringmaster line include Junior, 1/2A, and the Super Ringmaster.
Micro-Scale Models offers the Super Ringmaster kit as either an RC or Control Line (CL) model. Beyond that, parts are included to build the aircraft as either a glow-powered or electric-powered model. This review will be of a CL model with a glow engine installed.
Bold print on the kit’s cover reads, “Please read carefully before assembly.” I echo this statement. When building a kit, it is wise to lay out the entire package and familiarize yourself with the parts and the plans. The included instruction manual is a great visual aid, making building the model easier. The fit of the laser-cut parts, CA glue, and heat-shrink plastic covering made the assembly go quickly.
You must have a flat, level, smooth building surface. This will determine how the final product will fly. A friend of mine has a motto for the kits he produces and builds: “If it’s built right, it will fly right.”
The I constructed the wing assembly on a magnetic building board, but a wooden board and T-pins will do as well. The plans should be laid out with the ribs and spars put in place and squared. The building tabs help keep the wing straight and aligned. I used a 24-inch aluminum straightedge on the top spar to help keep it true. The instruction booklet walks you through this procedure.
Here is a suggestion you might consider before installing the bellcrank: For the leadouts, use the holes closest to the mounting screw (21/4 inches hole to hole). For the pushrod, use the hole closest to the mounting screw (5/8 inch screw to hole). This will slow the control and help with flight stability.
Stabilizer and elevator construction will not be a problem. Follow the instruction manual and you’ll be fine. If you plan to fly this model competitively, I suggest replacing the wooden control horn with a nylon one. Make sure the pivot hole is 5/8 inches from the hinge line. If you’re not flying competitively, the wooden control horn will work fine.
Throughout the years, Ringmasters have had one thing in common. Built according to the plans, they have more control than you need, unless you’re flying Combat. In competition, the airplane is stable and smooth with plenty of control to easily perform Square Loops and Figure Eights.
Pay careful attention to one area during the fuselage assembly. The engine compartment is not like a Nobler or Thunderbird. The maple mounts do not fit flush against the inside fuselage, but are secured through the firewall and first bulkhead. The instruction manual walks you through this process. After you have ensured their alignment, epoxy the mounts, firewall, and first bulkhead in place.
Fitting the wing into the fuselage requires patience. This procedure is one of the most important parts of the construction sequence. After you’ve retrofitted the wing to the fuselage, secure the fuselage to the building surface with the wing in position. Make sure it is centered on the thrustline.
Check to confirm that it is square using a seamstress tape measure. Pin it to the center of the tail post then position the wing until you have the same measurements to each wingtip. Spot glue it with CA adhesive and allow it to set for a few minutes. Reinforce it with epoxy and give it at least three to four hours to cure.
Before installing the stabilizer and elevator, finish the fuselage with the top and bottom skins. It will take some fitting and sanding to be ready for the next step. To install the stabilizer, align it with the front wing then measure the distance from the leading edge of the front wing to the trailing edge of the stabilizer. They should be the same.
Install the fin and rudder next. Put 1/2 inch of offset to the right on the rudder, then take the assembly and square it to the stabilizer, pin it, and glue it.
Finishing the cockpit area is next. Before securing the cellulose windshield, paint the interior and install a pilot bust. Use a special adhesive such as Pacer Formula 560 for the canopy. Trim, fit, and glue the windshield in place.
Shaping the cowl takes little time or effort—a little planing and sanding and you’re ready to go. Two dowel pins in the front secure it for flight. You could also use two small magnets in the back of the cowl.
The glow-powered Super Ringmaster has limited space for a fuel tank. There are several manufacturers of .19- and.25-size engines that will power it well. One of the pictures shows a 2-ounce tank installed and plumbed with a .35 engine, but the capacity of the tank can’t support the flight time needed to fly in competition. I plan to change the powerplant to a Brodak .25 and still fly it on 60-foot lines.
The completed Super Ringmaster weighs 26.8 ounces with a McCoy .35 engine. A competitive-minded builder and flier might want to consider a wingtip weight box and an adjustable leadout guide to improve the flight trim.
Throughout the years, products have advanced to make the art of building an attractive, realistic model aircraft much easier. The techniques and equipment such as laser-cut parts, adhesives, and available finishes also make the models safer and more efficient to fly.
Conclusion
This airplane is legal for Classic Stunt at the Nats and in most contests across the country. For sport fliers, the Super Ringmaster is user-friendly in the air.
In my 59 years of building and flying model airplanes—everything from 1/2A CL models to a 1/3-scale RC Stearman—this Micro-Scale Models Super Ringmaster kit is one I would rate five stars. I recommend it for a terrific time in the building room and on the flying field.
It is a great kit complete with all of the necessary hardware such as wheels, collar, bellcrank, leadouts, hinges, and pushrod included. With laser-cut parts, plans sheet, and instruction manual, constructing the model is simple. If you would like to build something that does not overwhelm your time and ability, try this Super Ringmaster.
If you come to the 2015 Nats in Muncie, Indiana, you will likely see my Super Ringmaster fly. Whether for sport or competition, it is all about fun. Enjoy building! Enjoy flying!
