Miss-E - 2011/05

by Rodney Helgeland
42 MODEL AVIATION
The “kit,” ready for construction to begin. Notice the marked locations of formers
and supports on the fuselage sides.
Miss-E
THE MISS-E IS an electric-powered
redesign of a glow-powered airplane I
designed and built several years ago. It
originally had an unthrottled .049 engine with
a two-channel AM radio controlling the
rudder and elevator.
Because electric power is much simpler
and easier to use for small models, everything
I have designed lately has been electric. This
past year I started converting some of my old
glow aircraft to electric power, including the
airplane that led to the Miss-E.
Replacing the Cox engine with an
outrunner motor from Hobby Lobby was
fairly easy, and the Li-Poly battery and ESC
fit nicely into the space that the receiver
battery had occupied. The electric version
weighs almost the same as the glow-powered
design, at 18 ounces ready to fly. I used the
same servos but replaced the AM radio with a
single-stick three-channel FM radio.
The addition of a throttle and the lack of
engine noise makes the Miss-E more relaxing
to fly, and the performance is better with the
bonus of longer flight times.
I redrew the plans to lighten the structure
and provide a proper battery compartment
with a hatch on top of the nose. I changed the
sides from 3/32 to 1/16 balsa, trimmed down the
formers, and reduced the number of wing
ribs. I slightly lengthened the nose for better
balance and included smaller, lighter servos
and lighter pushrods.
With its box-style fuselage, Miss-E is a
straightforward build with just enough
difference to give the experienced scratch
builder a challenge.
CONSTRUCTION
Please read the section about mating
the wing to the fuselage before you start
building; the holes for the wing
mounting dowels are drilled when both
the fuselage and wing have been partially
completed.
Wing:My first step in building the wing is to
stack-saw the ribs. Make a tracing of rib R1 and
glue it to the top blank of the stack. Fasten the
stack with two nails through the ribs.
Nailing the rib stack has the added benefit of
providing air-bleed holes during covering. A
1/16-inch hole drilled in the sheeting on the wing
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:11 PM Page 42
The finished model is a combination of covering on the wing and tail and a
painted fuselage and landing gear.
A pretty-as-you-please, easy-to-build electric
for that someone special
Above: The author uses an angle-measuring device to set F1 at
2° right thrust. Set F2 at 90° to the fuselage side with a square
or triangle.
Right: The basic fuselage box with all formers glued in place.
Photos by the author
bottom will relieve pressure buildup from the
heat gun when tightening the covering. After
sawing the ribs to shape, finish with a sanding
block.
Spread the wing section of the plans over the
building board and cover with waxed paper.
Mark and notch the rib locations on the two TE
pieces.
Pin the bottom spars in place, setting the pins
at an angle to leave room to install the top spars
without pulling the pins. Use a couple of ribs as
spacers to locate and pin the TEs in place.
Form ribs R2 by trimming down a couple
of the R1 ribs. Set all ribs in place using a
square or triangle to make certain that the ribs
are 90° to the spar. Glue the ribs to the
bottom spar and the TE with thin CA. Add
the top spars and glue in place.
Trim the inner ends of the 1/4 square balsa
LEs at 45° and glue to the ribs. Cut ribs R3
and sand to a 45° angle where they butt
against ribs R2. Glue to R2 and the LE. Add
the T-spars and glue in place with thin CA.
Notice in the photos that I leave the outer
ends of the spars long and trim them to 45°
after I remove the wing halves from the
building board. I find this easier, but instead
you could cut the ends to 45° as you build the
wing.
Glue a piece of 3/32 balsa sheet to the
wing ends and rough-shape the wingtips.
Rough out the fairings from soft 1/2 balsa and
glue them to ribs R3.
Employ a small block plane, hobby knife,
and sanding block to finish shaping the
wingtips, the LE, and the fairings.
Use a sanding block to carefully shape the
inner spar ends and the TEs to a 5° angle. Set
the wing panels in place over the wing view
on the plans, and block up the tips 13/4 inches.
With a machine square or triangle, check
the wing panels against the plans to make
certain that the wing is straight. Use the
sanding block to make necessary adjustments.
Adhere the ends of the spars and TEs
together with thin CA.
Make the plywood wing joiners. I like to
cut a cardboard template to check the fit
before I saw the plywood pieces. Glue the
joiners into place.
Cut and add the 1/16 balsa bottom sheeting.
Notice the grain direction per the plans. Add
the 1/8-inch-square balsa rear spars.
Use a sanding block to make the bottom
May 2011 43
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:19 PM Page 43
44 MODEL AVIATION
Above: Rib blanks attached with two #6
finishing nails. A tracing of the rib is
glued to the top blank using rubber
cement. Cut to shape with a band saw
and finish with a sanding block.
Left: Bottom view, showing control runs
crossed at the rear of the fuselage.
Right: Wingtips, LEs, and fairings are
shaped and sanded before the wing
panels are joined.
A sanding block is used to lightly smooth the
ailerons on the latest Miss-E.
Construction begins on the wing. The first Miss-E was built with a
nonaileron wing.
The wing under construction with finished ailerons in place. This
design can be built with or without ailerons. Wooden blocks are set under the wingtips to set the dihedral.
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:22 PM Page 44
Above: Bottom view of the finished
wing shows 1/32-inch-diameter wire
pushrods and screw- lock
connectors used to connect
the servo to the
ailerons. Plywood
control arms are
epoxied to the ends of
the carbon-fiber tubes.
Left: This view shows how the dowel
holes in the wing are drilled using former
F2 as a drill guide.
Top view of the finished airplane’s nose,
with battery hatch removed to show the
battery mounted with Velcro.
Bottom view of the finished airplane with
the servo hatch removed. The ESC is
positioned under the battery shelf. Notice
the ventilation holes.
The Miss-E, complete with pilot and aileron
wing. Servo wire is run down through the
hollow windshield to the receiver for a clean
installation.
Right: View of the fuselage with the wing
in place and the windshield completed.
The tail feathers are typical stick and sheet construction and are
best built directly over the plans.
The completed wire gear along with plywood and balsa pieces
to make the wheel pants.
Type: RC park flyer
Skill level: Intermediate
builder; beginner pilot
Wingspan: 423/4 inches
Wing area: 267 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 16-18 ounces
Power: Esskay 400XT outrunner motor;
three-cell, 800 mAh Li-Poly battery
Construction: Balsa
Covering/finish: Iron-on film covering, paint
Propeller: APC 10 x 3.8
An “in the bones”
top view of the
completed airframe.
Miss-E
May 2011 45
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:28 PM Page 45
46 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—See Page 167
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:32 PM Page 46
dowels. Finish the wing by adding the top
sheeting.
Finishing the Fuselage: Cut
and drill the three
plywood pieces for the
bottom of the fuselage. Shape the tail skid with
needle-nose pliers and crimp it to the plywood.
Bond all three parts to the fuselage with 30-
minute epoxy. Finish sheeting the fuselage
bottom with 1/16 balsa and make both hatches.
Cut out the base and side pieces for the
windshield, and glue them into position. Notice
that the side parts overlap F2. Some trimming
and sanding might be necessary for a good fit.
Shape the curved top piece from soft balsa
to fit between the sides and F2. Make the front
to fit. Finish with a sanding block.
Landing Gear: Cut a 16-inch length of 1/8-
inch-diameter wire and use a bending fixture or
vise to form per the drawing. Sixteen inches is
slightly long, but I like to trim the axles to fit
the wheels and collars after the gear is
complete.
Use emery paper to clean the wire where
the collars and brackets will be soldered on.
Install the collars and tighten the setscrews.
Make and tap the brass brackets, and press
them into place against the collars.
Silver-solder the collars and brackets to the
wire. Wash with soap and water, to prevent
rusting.
Cut all parts of the wheel pants, and glue
them together per the plans. Carve and sand to
shape. Temporarily mount the wire gear to the
fuselage, and set the fuselage on blocks so that
the bottom is parallel to the bench.
Slide the pant into place over the collar.
Line up the bottom of the pant so that it is
parallel to the bottom of the fuselage, and mark
the mounting holes with a sharp pencil or awl.
Drill 3/32-inch holes in the plywood, and attach
to the bracket with screws and washers.
Repeat to mount the other pant. Install the
wheels and collars, and trim the axle ends to fit.
Tail Group: The tail feathers feature typical
balsa stick and sheet construction. The
hardwood caps provide extra protection and
help prevent warping when the covering is
tightened with a heat gun.
Sand a “V” on the mating edges of the
control surfaces and make the hinge slits with a
sharp #11 blade.
Insert the hinge strips into the control
surfaces, leaving approximately 3/8 inch
sticking out, and glue with thin CA. Mark the
hinge locations on the tail wing and fin, and slit
all the way through the 1/8 x 1/4 balsa.
Push the hinges through the slits, and adjust
the control surfaces for minimum gap. Glue the
hinges on from the inside with thin CA and
trim off the excess.
Finishing/Covering: The model shown has a
painted fuselage and landing gear, with ironon-
film-covered wings. I have developed this
finish throughout the years; it gives the balsa a
nice, hard finish without adding a great deal of
weight.
Start by brushing on a generous coat of
latex KILZ, and allow it to dry thoroughly—
preferably overnight. Do not substitute another
brand for KILZ.
spar and TE flat. Fill in the top center of the
TE with scrap balsa. Do not glue on the top
sheeting at this time. Saw and add the
plywood tongue.
Set the partially completed wing aside and
begin work on the fuselage.
Fuselage: Select a 1/16 x 4 x 48-inch sheet of
medium-weight balsa for the sides. Slide the
sheet under the fuselage side view on the
plans, and use carbon paper to transfer the
outline of the side to the balsa.
Notice the black triangles on the drawing
that delineate the shape of the side; include
the locations of the formers, battery tray, and
servo rail supports.
Cut the balsa sheet in two, and sandwich
the pieces with the outline on top. Tack-glue
in the scrap area with small dabs of CA, and
cut both sides at the same time.
Transfer the internal structure locations to
the other side, and cut the pushrod exit slots.
Glue on the 1/8 x 1/4-inch balsa framing and
the 1/8-inch-square balsa battery tray and
servo rail supports.
Hold the sides together and drill the 1/8-
inch hole at F4 for the wing hold-down
dowel. Use carbon paper to transfer the
former outlines, battery tray, headrest, and
hatch backers to the appropriate plywood.
Saw and drill all of the holes. Press four 2-56
T-nuts into F1 from the back.
Check the fit of all formers by dry-fitting
them to both sides. Glue F1 and F2 to the left
side.
Use an angle device or make a scrap-balsa
template to set F1 at 2° right thrust. Use a
triangle or machine square to set F2 at 90° to
the side. Glue the right side to F1 and F2. The
right side will stick out slightly beyond F1.
Trim flush with a hobby knife and sanding
block.
Pull the tail together and trim and sand the
1/8 balsa for a nice fit; dry-fit F7 to act as a
spacer while doing this.
Place a sheet of waxed paper over the top
view of the fuselage on the plans. Set the
fuselage on the top view and pull the tail
together and clamp, making sure to keep the
tail centered and vertical. Adhere with thin
CA.
Add the rest of the formers and the battery
tray. Cut the spruce servo rails to length and
glue into position. Smooth the top and bottom
of the fuselage with a sanding block.
Sheet the top of the fuselage with 1/16
balsa cross-grain, per the plans. Be certain to
leave a slot at F5 for the headrest. Glue on the
headrest, and make and glue on the plywood
wing seat at the top of the headrest.
Make the supports for the pushrod plastic
sleeves from scrap balsa. Cut the sleeves to
length and thread into position through the
rear slots. Glue the sleeves at F5 with a drop
of thin CA.
Mating Wing to Fuselage: You should have
the wing completed except for the top center
sheeting and the fuselage with the headrest
and plywood wing seat in place, but without
the windshield.
Make and temporarily install the 1/8-inchdiameter
wing-hold-down dowel in the
fuselage. Set the wing in position and center
on F2. Lightly secure the wing to F2 with a
small clamp, and hold down the rear of the
wing with a rubber band.
Measure from the edge of the sheeting on
the bottom of the wing to the bottom of the
fuselage, and adjust the front of the wing up
or down until the flat bottom of the wing is
parallel to the bottom of the fuselage.
Place the fuselage on a flat surface, such
as a table or workbench, and true the wing by
measuring from the tips to the bench or table.
When the wing is level and true and
centered on F2, tightly clamp the wing and
drill the dowel holes in the plywood joiners,
using the holes in F2 as a drill guide.
After I drill the first hole, I like to insert
an extra 1/8-inch drill bit or dowel in the
hole to act as a locating pin while I drill the
second hole. Remove the wing from the
fuselage, and cut and glue in the wing
May 2011 47
See Her
F l y !
Rodney designed a great model for beginners to build and fly. And if
you’re new to electric power, he explains the Miss-E in a video you’ll find on
the Model Aviation Online Web site; just click on “Exclusive Online Features”
to find it.
The video features the three-channel version of the design, which is great
for basic flight and low-key aerobatics. Those of you who build the aileronequipped
model will enjoy rolling maneuvers and even inverted flight.
Enjoy the show! MA
—MA Staff
Sources:
Model Aviation Online
www.modelaircraft.org/mag
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:35 PM Page 47
Lightly finger-sand with 150-grit paper at
an angle to the wood grain. The idea is to
remove most of the primer but leave the balsa
pores filled. You will get a smoother finish
each time you repeat this step, but remember
that paint adds weight. KILZ fills the pores
and also seems to harden the balsa.
Sand the last coat of primer smooth with
fine sandpaper, and wipe with a tack rag.
Install the wing hold-down dowel and glue
with thin CA. Spray on a coat of gray
sandable primer. You can try sanding the
primer with 400-grit paper, but be extremely
careful not to sand through the primer.
Breaking through that surface can cause
bubbling in the final coat.
I spray the color coats directly over the
unsanded primer. Although instructions on the
paint can are to sand the primer, I can’t tell the
difference in the final color coat between
sanding and not sanding.
The fuselage and landing gear were
painted with Rust-Oleum Farm Equipment
spray in John Deere Yellow (item 7443-830).
I covered the wing and tail feathers with
yellow and dark-red Lightweight Transparent
Polycover from Hobby Lobby.
Assembly: Remove the covering from the top
of the stabilizer where the fin attaches, and
glue the fin in place. Use a triangle or
machine square to keep the fin 90° to the
stabilizer while the adhesive dries.
Add the 1/4-inch triangle stock bracing, and
48 MODEL AVIATION
Visit us online at www.OnTopoftheWorld.com
AT ON TOP OF THE WORLD COMMUNITIES!
Call today to schedule a
3 day/2 night visit and receive
special pricing on your stay!
C ll d h d l
HOMESÊFROMÊTHEÊMIDÊ$100ÕS*
FLY. RELAX. LIVE.
Find us on Facebook®
Take your passion for flying to a
whole new level!
Fly high in the morning. Play golf
in the afternoon. Then dance the
night away at On Top of the World
Communities’ Town Square.
There are so many things to do in this
amenity-rich, active adult community
including life long learning, over
200 clubs and organizations and
much more!
On Top of the World is flying and
so much more…it will take your life
to a new high!
800.421.4162
8445 SW 80th St., Ocala, FL 34481
Historic LOW
NEW HOME PRICING
and much more!
Call today for details.
OnTop
*Prices subject to change. 55+ community. Void where prohibited by law.
© 2010 On Top of the World Communities, Inc.
#7619-11/10
cover to match. Dry-fit the tail group to the
fuselage, and mark the locations and angles of
the control horns. Screw both control horns
into position.
Remove the covering from the bottom of
the stabilizer where it mates to the fuselage and
attach with 30-minute epoxy. Use a
straightedge placed along the fin and headrest
to align the tail group. Pin the tail group in
place and allow the epoxy to set.
Screw the landing gear in place with the
nylon landing gear straps. If you snug the
screws holding the straps, the wire will be
allowed to slide a little on hard landings,
reducing the stress on the gear and fuselage.
Mount the servos and finish the control
runs. Set the control throws at approximately
3/8 inch either way for the first flights.
Install the motor and electronics, and make
all of the electrical connections. Attach the
propeller adapter and propeller.
Rubber-band the wing in place, and set the
battery on the battery tray. Balance the model
by placing your fingertips under the main spar,
near the ends of the wing. Slide the battery
back and forth until Miss-E hangs level or
slightly nose-down. Mine balanced perfectly
with the battery pushed all the way forward.
Flying: Pick a calm day for the first flight, if
possible. They day I made mine, the wind was
blowing 10-15 mph. Although I don’t
recommend those conditions, it was the last
day a visiting friend could take flying pictures.
The Miss-E bounced around the sky but
proved to have enough power and control
authority to fly in windy conditions. A not-sograceful
landing, when a gust caught the
model, proved the integrity of the design, and
the airplane came through undamaged.
If you launch the model by hand, do so
straight ahead at approximately one-third to
half throttle. As do all lightly loaded aircraft
with flat-bottomed wings, Miss-E will climb
under power. The 4° downthrust helps, but you
can never totally cure the tendency to climb
under advancing throttle. I like to trim the
airplane to fly hands-off on a calm day at close
to half throttle.
Miss-E is capable of mild aerobatics such as
loops, but it was designed for relaxed cruising
around the flying field. With its light weight,
fairly large frontal area, and big propeller, this
model does not glide well with the power off.
It’s best to keep the propeller turning and cut
the power at touchdown.
I hope you enjoy building and flying Miss-E as
much as I have. MA
Rodney Helgeland
[email protected]
Sources:
KILZ
(866) 325-3552
www.masterchem.com
Rust-Oleum
(800) 323-3584
www.rustoleum.com
Hobby Lobby
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:36 PM Page 48

by Rodney Helgeland
42 MODEL AVIATION
The “kit,” ready for construction to begin. Notice the marked locations of formers
and supports on the fuselage sides.
Miss-E
THE MISS-E IS an electric-powered
redesign of a glow-powered airplane I
designed and built several years ago. It
originally had an unthrottled .049 engine with
a two-channel AM radio controlling the
rudder and elevator.
Because electric power is much simpler
and easier to use for small models, everything
I have designed lately has been electric. This
past year I started converting some of my old
glow aircraft to electric power, including the
airplane that led to the Miss-E.
Replacing the Cox engine with an
outrunner motor from Hobby Lobby was
fairly easy, and the Li-Poly battery and ESC
fit nicely into the space that the receiver
battery had occupied. The electric version
weighs almost the same as the glow-powered
design, at 18 ounces ready to fly. I used the
same servos but replaced the AM radio with a
single-stick three-channel FM radio.
The addition of a throttle and the lack of
engine noise makes the Miss-E more relaxing
to fly, and the performance is better with the
bonus of longer flight times.
I redrew the plans to lighten the structure
and provide a proper battery compartment
with a hatch on top of the nose. I changed the
sides from 3/32 to 1/16 balsa, trimmed down the
formers, and reduced the number of wing
ribs. I slightly lengthened the nose for better
balance and included smaller, lighter servos
and lighter pushrods.
With its box-style fuselage, Miss-E is a
straightforward build with just enough
difference to give the experienced scratch
builder a challenge.
CONSTRUCTION
Please read the section about mating
the wing to the fuselage before you start
building; the holes for the wing
mounting dowels are drilled when both
the fuselage and wing have been partially
completed.
Wing:My first step in building the wing is to
stack-saw the ribs. Make a tracing of rib R1 and
glue it to the top blank of the stack. Fasten the
stack with two nails through the ribs.
Nailing the rib stack has the added benefit of
providing air-bleed holes during covering. A
1/16-inch hole drilled in the sheeting on the wing
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:11 PM Page 42
The finished model is a combination of covering on the wing and tail and a
painted fuselage and landing gear.
A pretty-as-you-please, easy-to-build electric
for that someone special
Above: The author uses an angle-measuring device to set F1 at
2° right thrust. Set F2 at 90° to the fuselage side with a square
or triangle.
Right: The basic fuselage box with all formers glued in place.
Photos by the author
bottom will relieve pressure buildup from the
heat gun when tightening the covering. After
sawing the ribs to shape, finish with a sanding
block.
Spread the wing section of the plans over the
building board and cover with waxed paper.
Mark and notch the rib locations on the two TE
pieces.
Pin the bottom spars in place, setting the pins
at an angle to leave room to install the top spars
without pulling the pins. Use a couple of ribs as
spacers to locate and pin the TEs in place.
Form ribs R2 by trimming down a couple
of the R1 ribs. Set all ribs in place using a
square or triangle to make certain that the ribs
are 90° to the spar. Glue the ribs to the
bottom spar and the TE with thin CA. Add
the top spars and glue in place.
Trim the inner ends of the 1/4 square balsa
LEs at 45° and glue to the ribs. Cut ribs R3
and sand to a 45° angle where they butt
against ribs R2. Glue to R2 and the LE. Add
the T-spars and glue in place with thin CA.
Notice in the photos that I leave the outer
ends of the spars long and trim them to 45°
after I remove the wing halves from the
building board. I find this easier, but instead
you could cut the ends to 45° as you build the
wing.
Glue a piece of 3/32 balsa sheet to the
wing ends and rough-shape the wingtips.
Rough out the fairings from soft 1/2 balsa and
glue them to ribs R3.
Employ a small block plane, hobby knife,
and sanding block to finish shaping the
wingtips, the LE, and the fairings.
Use a sanding block to carefully shape the
inner spar ends and the TEs to a 5° angle. Set
the wing panels in place over the wing view
on the plans, and block up the tips 13/4 inches.
With a machine square or triangle, check
the wing panels against the plans to make
certain that the wing is straight. Use the
sanding block to make necessary adjustments.
Adhere the ends of the spars and TEs
together with thin CA.
Make the plywood wing joiners. I like to
cut a cardboard template to check the fit
before I saw the plywood pieces. Glue the
joiners into place.
Cut and add the 1/16 balsa bottom sheeting.
Notice the grain direction per the plans. Add
the 1/8-inch-square balsa rear spars.
Use a sanding block to make the bottom
May 2011 43
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:19 PM Page 43
44 MODEL AVIATION
Above: Rib blanks attached with two #6
finishing nails. A tracing of the rib is
glued to the top blank using rubber
cement. Cut to shape with a band saw
and finish with a sanding block.
Left: Bottom view, showing control runs
crossed at the rear of the fuselage.
Right: Wingtips, LEs, and fairings are
shaped and sanded before the wing
panels are joined.
A sanding block is used to lightly smooth the
ailerons on the latest Miss-E.
Construction begins on the wing. The first Miss-E was built with a
nonaileron wing.
The wing under construction with finished ailerons in place. This
design can be built with or without ailerons. Wooden blocks are set under the wingtips to set the dihedral.
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:22 PM Page 44
Above: Bottom view of the finished
wing shows 1/32-inch-diameter wire
pushrods and screw- lock
connectors used to connect
the servo to the
ailerons. Plywood
control arms are
epoxied to the ends of
the carbon-fiber tubes.
Left: This view shows how the dowel
holes in the wing are drilled using former
F2 as a drill guide.
Top view of the finished airplane’s nose,
with battery hatch removed to show the
battery mounted with Velcro.
Bottom view of the finished airplane with
the servo hatch removed. The ESC is
positioned under the battery shelf. Notice
the ventilation holes.
The Miss-E, complete with pilot and aileron
wing. Servo wire is run down through the
hollow windshield to the receiver for a clean
installation.
Right: View of the fuselage with the wing
in place and the windshield completed.
The tail feathers are typical stick and sheet construction and are
best built directly over the plans.
The completed wire gear along with plywood and balsa pieces
to make the wheel pants.
Type: RC park flyer
Skill level: Intermediate
builder; beginner pilot
Wingspan: 423/4 inches
Wing area: 267 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 16-18 ounces
Power: Esskay 400XT outrunner motor;
three-cell, 800 mAh Li-Poly battery
Construction: Balsa
Covering/finish: Iron-on film covering, paint
Propeller: APC 10 x 3.8
An “in the bones”
top view of the
completed airframe.
Miss-E
May 2011 45
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:28 PM Page 45
46 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—See Page 167
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:32 PM Page 46
dowels. Finish the wing by adding the top
sheeting.
Finishing the Fuselage: Cut
and drill the three
plywood pieces for the
bottom of the fuselage. Shape the tail skid with
needle-nose pliers and crimp it to the plywood.
Bond all three parts to the fuselage with 30-
minute epoxy. Finish sheeting the fuselage
bottom with 1/16 balsa and make both hatches.
Cut out the base and side pieces for the
windshield, and glue them into position. Notice
that the side parts overlap F2. Some trimming
and sanding might be necessary for a good fit.
Shape the curved top piece from soft balsa
to fit between the sides and F2. Make the front
to fit. Finish with a sanding block.
Landing Gear: Cut a 16-inch length of 1/8-
inch-diameter wire and use a bending fixture or
vise to form per the drawing. Sixteen inches is
slightly long, but I like to trim the axles to fit
the wheels and collars after the gear is
complete.
Use emery paper to clean the wire where
the collars and brackets will be soldered on.
Install the collars and tighten the setscrews.
Make and tap the brass brackets, and press
them into place against the collars.
Silver-solder the collars and brackets to the
wire. Wash with soap and water, to prevent
rusting.
Cut all parts of the wheel pants, and glue
them together per the plans. Carve and sand to
shape. Temporarily mount the wire gear to the
fuselage, and set the fuselage on blocks so that
the bottom is parallel to the bench.
Slide the pant into place over the collar.
Line up the bottom of the pant so that it is
parallel to the bottom of the fuselage, and mark
the mounting holes with a sharp pencil or awl.
Drill 3/32-inch holes in the plywood, and attach
to the bracket with screws and washers.
Repeat to mount the other pant. Install the
wheels and collars, and trim the axle ends to fit.
Tail Group: The tail feathers feature typical
balsa stick and sheet construction. The
hardwood caps provide extra protection and
help prevent warping when the covering is
tightened with a heat gun.
Sand a “V” on the mating edges of the
control surfaces and make the hinge slits with a
sharp #11 blade.
Insert the hinge strips into the control
surfaces, leaving approximately 3/8 inch
sticking out, and glue with thin CA. Mark the
hinge locations on the tail wing and fin, and slit
all the way through the 1/8 x 1/4 balsa.
Push the hinges through the slits, and adjust
the control surfaces for minimum gap. Glue the
hinges on from the inside with thin CA and
trim off the excess.
Finishing/Covering: The model shown has a
painted fuselage and landing gear, with ironon-
film-covered wings. I have developed this
finish throughout the years; it gives the balsa a
nice, hard finish without adding a great deal of
weight.
Start by brushing on a generous coat of
latex KILZ, and allow it to dry thoroughly—
preferably overnight. Do not substitute another
brand for KILZ.
spar and TE flat. Fill in the top center of the
TE with scrap balsa. Do not glue on the top
sheeting at this time. Saw and add the
plywood tongue.
Set the partially completed wing aside and
begin work on the fuselage.
Fuselage: Select a 1/16 x 4 x 48-inch sheet of
medium-weight balsa for the sides. Slide the
sheet under the fuselage side view on the
plans, and use carbon paper to transfer the
outline of the side to the balsa.
Notice the black triangles on the drawing
that delineate the shape of the side; include
the locations of the formers, battery tray, and
servo rail supports.
Cut the balsa sheet in two, and sandwich
the pieces with the outline on top. Tack-glue
in the scrap area with small dabs of CA, and
cut both sides at the same time.
Transfer the internal structure locations to
the other side, and cut the pushrod exit slots.
Glue on the 1/8 x 1/4-inch balsa framing and
the 1/8-inch-square balsa battery tray and
servo rail supports.
Hold the sides together and drill the 1/8-
inch hole at F4 for the wing hold-down
dowel. Use carbon paper to transfer the
former outlines, battery tray, headrest, and
hatch backers to the appropriate plywood.
Saw and drill all of the holes. Press four 2-56
T-nuts into F1 from the back.
Check the fit of all formers by dry-fitting
them to both sides. Glue F1 and F2 to the left
side.
Use an angle device or make a scrap-balsa
template to set F1 at 2° right thrust. Use a
triangle or machine square to set F2 at 90° to
the side. Glue the right side to F1 and F2. The
right side will stick out slightly beyond F1.
Trim flush with a hobby knife and sanding
block.
Pull the tail together and trim and sand the
1/8 balsa for a nice fit; dry-fit F7 to act as a
spacer while doing this.
Place a sheet of waxed paper over the top
view of the fuselage on the plans. Set the
fuselage on the top view and pull the tail
together and clamp, making sure to keep the
tail centered and vertical. Adhere with thin
CA.
Add the rest of the formers and the battery
tray. Cut the spruce servo rails to length and
glue into position. Smooth the top and bottom
of the fuselage with a sanding block.
Sheet the top of the fuselage with 1/16
balsa cross-grain, per the plans. Be certain to
leave a slot at F5 for the headrest. Glue on the
headrest, and make and glue on the plywood
wing seat at the top of the headrest.
Make the supports for the pushrod plastic
sleeves from scrap balsa. Cut the sleeves to
length and thread into position through the
rear slots. Glue the sleeves at F5 with a drop
of thin CA.
Mating Wing to Fuselage: You should have
the wing completed except for the top center
sheeting and the fuselage with the headrest
and plywood wing seat in place, but without
the windshield.
Make and temporarily install the 1/8-inchdiameter
wing-hold-down dowel in the
fuselage. Set the wing in position and center
on F2. Lightly secure the wing to F2 with a
small clamp, and hold down the rear of the
wing with a rubber band.
Measure from the edge of the sheeting on
the bottom of the wing to the bottom of the
fuselage, and adjust the front of the wing up
or down until the flat bottom of the wing is
parallel to the bottom of the fuselage.
Place the fuselage on a flat surface, such
as a table or workbench, and true the wing by
measuring from the tips to the bench or table.
When the wing is level and true and
centered on F2, tightly clamp the wing and
drill the dowel holes in the plywood joiners,
using the holes in F2 as a drill guide.
After I drill the first hole, I like to insert
an extra 1/8-inch drill bit or dowel in the
hole to act as a locating pin while I drill the
second hole. Remove the wing from the
fuselage, and cut and glue in the wing
May 2011 47
See Her
F l y !
Rodney designed a great model for beginners to build and fly. And if
you’re new to electric power, he explains the Miss-E in a video you’ll find on
the Model Aviation Online Web site; just click on “Exclusive Online Features”
to find it.
The video features the three-channel version of the design, which is great
for basic flight and low-key aerobatics. Those of you who build the aileronequipped
model will enjoy rolling maneuvers and even inverted flight.
Enjoy the show! MA
—MA Staff
Sources:
Model Aviation Online
www.modelaircraft.org/mag
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:35 PM Page 47
Lightly finger-sand with 150-grit paper at
an angle to the wood grain. The idea is to
remove most of the primer but leave the balsa
pores filled. You will get a smoother finish
each time you repeat this step, but remember
that paint adds weight. KILZ fills the pores
and also seems to harden the balsa.
Sand the last coat of primer smooth with
fine sandpaper, and wipe with a tack rag.
Install the wing hold-down dowel and glue
with thin CA. Spray on a coat of gray
sandable primer. You can try sanding the
primer with 400-grit paper, but be extremely
careful not to sand through the primer.
Breaking through that surface can cause
bubbling in the final coat.
I spray the color coats directly over the
unsanded primer. Although instructions on the
paint can are to sand the primer, I can’t tell the
difference in the final color coat between
sanding and not sanding.
The fuselage and landing gear were
painted with Rust-Oleum Farm Equipment
spray in John Deere Yellow (item 7443-830).
I covered the wing and tail feathers with
yellow and dark-red Lightweight Transparent
Polycover from Hobby Lobby.
Assembly: Remove the covering from the top
of the stabilizer where the fin attaches, and
glue the fin in place. Use a triangle or
machine square to keep the fin 90° to the
stabilizer while the adhesive dries.
Add the 1/4-inch triangle stock bracing, and
48 MODEL AVIATION
Visit us online at www.OnTopoftheWorld.com
AT ON TOP OF THE WORLD COMMUNITIES!
Call today to schedule a
3 day/2 night visit and receive
special pricing on your stay!
C ll d h d l
HOMESÊFROMÊTHEÊMIDÊ$100ÕS*
FLY. RELAX. LIVE.
Find us on Facebook®
Take your passion for flying to a
whole new level!
Fly high in the morning. Play golf
in the afternoon. Then dance the
night away at On Top of the World
Communities’ Town Square.
There are so many things to do in this
amenity-rich, active adult community
including life long learning, over
200 clubs and organizations and
much more!
On Top of the World is flying and
so much more…it will take your life
to a new high!
800.421.4162
8445 SW 80th St., Ocala, FL 34481
Historic LOW
NEW HOME PRICING
and much more!
Call today for details.
OnTop
*Prices subject to change. 55+ community. Void where prohibited by law.
© 2010 On Top of the World Communities, Inc.
#7619-11/10
cover to match. Dry-fit the tail group to the
fuselage, and mark the locations and angles of
the control horns. Screw both control horns
into position.
Remove the covering from the bottom of
the stabilizer where it mates to the fuselage and
attach with 30-minute epoxy. Use a
straightedge placed along the fin and headrest
to align the tail group. Pin the tail group in
place and allow the epoxy to set.
Screw the landing gear in place with the
nylon landing gear straps. If you snug the
screws holding the straps, the wire will be
allowed to slide a little on hard landings,
reducing the stress on the gear and fuselage.
Mount the servos and finish the control
runs. Set the control throws at approximately
3/8 inch either way for the first flights.
Install the motor and electronics, and make
all of the electrical connections. Attach the
propeller adapter and propeller.
Rubber-band the wing in place, and set the
battery on the battery tray. Balance the model
by placing your fingertips under the main spar,
near the ends of the wing. Slide the battery
back and forth until Miss-E hangs level or
slightly nose-down. Mine balanced perfectly
with the battery pushed all the way forward.
Flying: Pick a calm day for the first flight, if
possible. They day I made mine, the wind was
blowing 10-15 mph. Although I don’t
recommend those conditions, it was the last
day a visiting friend could take flying pictures.
The Miss-E bounced around the sky but
proved to have enough power and control
authority to fly in windy conditions. A not-sograceful
landing, when a gust caught the
model, proved the integrity of the design, and
the airplane came through undamaged.
If you launch the model by hand, do so
straight ahead at approximately one-third to
half throttle. As do all lightly loaded aircraft
with flat-bottomed wings, Miss-E will climb
under power. The 4° downthrust helps, but you
can never totally cure the tendency to climb
under advancing throttle. I like to trim the
airplane to fly hands-off on a calm day at close
to half throttle.
Miss-E is capable of mild aerobatics such as
loops, but it was designed for relaxed cruising
around the flying field. With its light weight,
fairly large frontal area, and big propeller, this
model does not glide well with the power off.
It’s best to keep the propeller turning and cut
the power at touchdown.
I hope you enjoy building and flying Miss-E as
much as I have. MA
Rodney Helgeland
[email protected]
Sources:
KILZ
(866) 325-3552
www.masterchem.com
Rust-Oleum
(800) 323-3584
www.rustoleum.com
Hobby Lobby
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:36 PM Page 48

by Rodney Helgeland
42 MODEL AVIATION
The “kit,” ready for construction to begin. Notice the marked locations of formers
and supports on the fuselage sides.
Miss-E
THE MISS-E IS an electric-powered
redesign of a glow-powered airplane I
designed and built several years ago. It
originally had an unthrottled .049 engine with
a two-channel AM radio controlling the
rudder and elevator.
Because electric power is much simpler
and easier to use for small models, everything
I have designed lately has been electric. This
past year I started converting some of my old
glow aircraft to electric power, including the
airplane that led to the Miss-E.
Replacing the Cox engine with an
outrunner motor from Hobby Lobby was
fairly easy, and the Li-Poly battery and ESC
fit nicely into the space that the receiver
battery had occupied. The electric version
weighs almost the same as the glow-powered
design, at 18 ounces ready to fly. I used the
same servos but replaced the AM radio with a
single-stick three-channel FM radio.
The addition of a throttle and the lack of
engine noise makes the Miss-E more relaxing
to fly, and the performance is better with the
bonus of longer flight times.
I redrew the plans to lighten the structure
and provide a proper battery compartment
with a hatch on top of the nose. I changed the
sides from 3/32 to 1/16 balsa, trimmed down the
formers, and reduced the number of wing
ribs. I slightly lengthened the nose for better
balance and included smaller, lighter servos
and lighter pushrods.
With its box-style fuselage, Miss-E is a
straightforward build with just enough
difference to give the experienced scratch
builder a challenge.
CONSTRUCTION
Please read the section about mating
the wing to the fuselage before you start
building; the holes for the wing
mounting dowels are drilled when both
the fuselage and wing have been partially
completed.
Wing:My first step in building the wing is to
stack-saw the ribs. Make a tracing of rib R1 and
glue it to the top blank of the stack. Fasten the
stack with two nails through the ribs.
Nailing the rib stack has the added benefit of
providing air-bleed holes during covering. A
1/16-inch hole drilled in the sheeting on the wing
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:11 PM Page 42
The finished model is a combination of covering on the wing and tail and a
painted fuselage and landing gear.
A pretty-as-you-please, easy-to-build electric
for that someone special
Above: The author uses an angle-measuring device to set F1 at
2° right thrust. Set F2 at 90° to the fuselage side with a square
or triangle.
Right: The basic fuselage box with all formers glued in place.
Photos by the author
bottom will relieve pressure buildup from the
heat gun when tightening the covering. After
sawing the ribs to shape, finish with a sanding
block.
Spread the wing section of the plans over the
building board and cover with waxed paper.
Mark and notch the rib locations on the two TE
pieces.
Pin the bottom spars in place, setting the pins
at an angle to leave room to install the top spars
without pulling the pins. Use a couple of ribs as
spacers to locate and pin the TEs in place.
Form ribs R2 by trimming down a couple
of the R1 ribs. Set all ribs in place using a
square or triangle to make certain that the ribs
are 90° to the spar. Glue the ribs to the
bottom spar and the TE with thin CA. Add
the top spars and glue in place.
Trim the inner ends of the 1/4 square balsa
LEs at 45° and glue to the ribs. Cut ribs R3
and sand to a 45° angle where they butt
against ribs R2. Glue to R2 and the LE. Add
the T-spars and glue in place with thin CA.
Notice in the photos that I leave the outer
ends of the spars long and trim them to 45°
after I remove the wing halves from the
building board. I find this easier, but instead
you could cut the ends to 45° as you build the
wing.
Glue a piece of 3/32 balsa sheet to the
wing ends and rough-shape the wingtips.
Rough out the fairings from soft 1/2 balsa and
glue them to ribs R3.
Employ a small block plane, hobby knife,
and sanding block to finish shaping the
wingtips, the LE, and the fairings.
Use a sanding block to carefully shape the
inner spar ends and the TEs to a 5° angle. Set
the wing panels in place over the wing view
on the plans, and block up the tips 13/4 inches.
With a machine square or triangle, check
the wing panels against the plans to make
certain that the wing is straight. Use the
sanding block to make necessary adjustments.
Adhere the ends of the spars and TEs
together with thin CA.
Make the plywood wing joiners. I like to
cut a cardboard template to check the fit
before I saw the plywood pieces. Glue the
joiners into place.
Cut and add the 1/16 balsa bottom sheeting.
Notice the grain direction per the plans. Add
the 1/8-inch-square balsa rear spars.
Use a sanding block to make the bottom
May 2011 43
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:19 PM Page 43
44 MODEL AVIATION
Above: Rib blanks attached with two #6
finishing nails. A tracing of the rib is
glued to the top blank using rubber
cement. Cut to shape with a band saw
and finish with a sanding block.
Left: Bottom view, showing control runs
crossed at the rear of the fuselage.
Right: Wingtips, LEs, and fairings are
shaped and sanded before the wing
panels are joined.
A sanding block is used to lightly smooth the
ailerons on the latest Miss-E.
Construction begins on the wing. The first Miss-E was built with a
nonaileron wing.
The wing under construction with finished ailerons in place. This
design can be built with or without ailerons. Wooden blocks are set under the wingtips to set the dihedral.
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:22 PM Page 44
Above: Bottom view of the finished
wing shows 1/32-inch-diameter wire
pushrods and screw- lock
connectors used to connect
the servo to the
ailerons. Plywood
control arms are
epoxied to the ends of
the carbon-fiber tubes.
Left: This view shows how the dowel
holes in the wing are drilled using former
F2 as a drill guide.
Top view of the finished airplane’s nose,
with battery hatch removed to show the
battery mounted with Velcro.
Bottom view of the finished airplane with
the servo hatch removed. The ESC is
positioned under the battery shelf. Notice
the ventilation holes.
The Miss-E, complete with pilot and aileron
wing. Servo wire is run down through the
hollow windshield to the receiver for a clean
installation.
Right: View of the fuselage with the wing
in place and the windshield completed.
The tail feathers are typical stick and sheet construction and are
best built directly over the plans.
The completed wire gear along with plywood and balsa pieces
to make the wheel pants.
Type: RC park flyer
Skill level: Intermediate
builder; beginner pilot
Wingspan: 423/4 inches
Wing area: 267 square inches
Length: 28 inches
Weight: 16-18 ounces
Power: Esskay 400XT outrunner motor;
three-cell, 800 mAh Li-Poly battery
Construction: Balsa
Covering/finish: Iron-on film covering, paint
Propeller: APC 10 x 3.8
An “in the bones”
top view of the
completed airframe.
Miss-E
May 2011 45
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:28 PM Page 45
46 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—See Page 167
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:32 PM Page 46
dowels. Finish the wing by adding the top
sheeting.
Finishing the Fuselage: Cut
and drill the three
plywood pieces for the
bottom of the fuselage. Shape the tail skid with
needle-nose pliers and crimp it to the plywood.
Bond all three parts to the fuselage with 30-
minute epoxy. Finish sheeting the fuselage
bottom with 1/16 balsa and make both hatches.
Cut out the base and side pieces for the
windshield, and glue them into position. Notice
that the side parts overlap F2. Some trimming
and sanding might be necessary for a good fit.
Shape the curved top piece from soft balsa
to fit between the sides and F2. Make the front
to fit. Finish with a sanding block.
Landing Gear: Cut a 16-inch length of 1/8-
inch-diameter wire and use a bending fixture or
vise to form per the drawing. Sixteen inches is
slightly long, but I like to trim the axles to fit
the wheels and collars after the gear is
complete.
Use emery paper to clean the wire where
the collars and brackets will be soldered on.
Install the collars and tighten the setscrews.
Make and tap the brass brackets, and press
them into place against the collars.
Silver-solder the collars and brackets to the
wire. Wash with soap and water, to prevent
rusting.
Cut all parts of the wheel pants, and glue
them together per the plans. Carve and sand to
shape. Temporarily mount the wire gear to the
fuselage, and set the fuselage on blocks so that
the bottom is parallel to the bench.
Slide the pant into place over the collar.
Line up the bottom of the pant so that it is
parallel to the bottom of the fuselage, and mark
the mounting holes with a sharp pencil or awl.
Drill 3/32-inch holes in the plywood, and attach
to the bracket with screws and washers.
Repeat to mount the other pant. Install the
wheels and collars, and trim the axle ends to fit.
Tail Group: The tail feathers feature typical
balsa stick and sheet construction. The
hardwood caps provide extra protection and
help prevent warping when the covering is
tightened with a heat gun.
Sand a “V” on the mating edges of the
control surfaces and make the hinge slits with a
sharp #11 blade.
Insert the hinge strips into the control
surfaces, leaving approximately 3/8 inch
sticking out, and glue with thin CA. Mark the
hinge locations on the tail wing and fin, and slit
all the way through the 1/8 x 1/4 balsa.
Push the hinges through the slits, and adjust
the control surfaces for minimum gap. Glue the
hinges on from the inside with thin CA and
trim off the excess.
Finishing/Covering: The model shown has a
painted fuselage and landing gear, with ironon-
film-covered wings. I have developed this
finish throughout the years; it gives the balsa a
nice, hard finish without adding a great deal of
weight.
Start by brushing on a generous coat of
latex KILZ, and allow it to dry thoroughly—
preferably overnight. Do not substitute another
brand for KILZ.
spar and TE flat. Fill in the top center of the
TE with scrap balsa. Do not glue on the top
sheeting at this time. Saw and add the
plywood tongue.
Set the partially completed wing aside and
begin work on the fuselage.
Fuselage: Select a 1/16 x 4 x 48-inch sheet of
medium-weight balsa for the sides. Slide the
sheet under the fuselage side view on the
plans, and use carbon paper to transfer the
outline of the side to the balsa.
Notice the black triangles on the drawing
that delineate the shape of the side; include
the locations of the formers, battery tray, and
servo rail supports.
Cut the balsa sheet in two, and sandwich
the pieces with the outline on top. Tack-glue
in the scrap area with small dabs of CA, and
cut both sides at the same time.
Transfer the internal structure locations to
the other side, and cut the pushrod exit slots.
Glue on the 1/8 x 1/4-inch balsa framing and
the 1/8-inch-square balsa battery tray and
servo rail supports.
Hold the sides together and drill the 1/8-
inch hole at F4 for the wing hold-down
dowel. Use carbon paper to transfer the
former outlines, battery tray, headrest, and
hatch backers to the appropriate plywood.
Saw and drill all of the holes. Press four 2-56
T-nuts into F1 from the back.
Check the fit of all formers by dry-fitting
them to both sides. Glue F1 and F2 to the left
side.
Use an angle device or make a scrap-balsa
template to set F1 at 2° right thrust. Use a
triangle or machine square to set F2 at 90° to
the side. Glue the right side to F1 and F2. The
right side will stick out slightly beyond F1.
Trim flush with a hobby knife and sanding
block.
Pull the tail together and trim and sand the
1/8 balsa for a nice fit; dry-fit F7 to act as a
spacer while doing this.
Place a sheet of waxed paper over the top
view of the fuselage on the plans. Set the
fuselage on the top view and pull the tail
together and clamp, making sure to keep the
tail centered and vertical. Adhere with thin
CA.
Add the rest of the formers and the battery
tray. Cut the spruce servo rails to length and
glue into position. Smooth the top and bottom
of the fuselage with a sanding block.
Sheet the top of the fuselage with 1/16
balsa cross-grain, per the plans. Be certain to
leave a slot at F5 for the headrest. Glue on the
headrest, and make and glue on the plywood
wing seat at the top of the headrest.
Make the supports for the pushrod plastic
sleeves from scrap balsa. Cut the sleeves to
length and thread into position through the
rear slots. Glue the sleeves at F5 with a drop
of thin CA.
Mating Wing to Fuselage: You should have
the wing completed except for the top center
sheeting and the fuselage with the headrest
and plywood wing seat in place, but without
the windshield.
Make and temporarily install the 1/8-inchdiameter
wing-hold-down dowel in the
fuselage. Set the wing in position and center
on F2. Lightly secure the wing to F2 with a
small clamp, and hold down the rear of the
wing with a rubber band.
Measure from the edge of the sheeting on
the bottom of the wing to the bottom of the
fuselage, and adjust the front of the wing up
or down until the flat bottom of the wing is
parallel to the bottom of the fuselage.
Place the fuselage on a flat surface, such
as a table or workbench, and true the wing by
measuring from the tips to the bench or table.
When the wing is level and true and
centered on F2, tightly clamp the wing and
drill the dowel holes in the plywood joiners,
using the holes in F2 as a drill guide.
After I drill the first hole, I like to insert
an extra 1/8-inch drill bit or dowel in the
hole to act as a locating pin while I drill the
second hole. Remove the wing from the
fuselage, and cut and glue in the wing
May 2011 47
See Her
F l y !
Rodney designed a great model for beginners to build and fly. And if
you’re new to electric power, he explains the Miss-E in a video you’ll find on
the Model Aviation Online Web site; just click on “Exclusive Online Features”
to find it.
The video features the three-channel version of the design, which is great
for basic flight and low-key aerobatics. Those of you who build the aileronequipped
model will enjoy rolling maneuvers and even inverted flight.
Enjoy the show! MA
—MA Staff
Sources:
Model Aviation Online
www.modelaircraft.org/mag
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:35 PM Page 47
Lightly finger-sand with 150-grit paper at
an angle to the wood grain. The idea is to
remove most of the primer but leave the balsa
pores filled. You will get a smoother finish
each time you repeat this step, but remember
that paint adds weight. KILZ fills the pores
and also seems to harden the balsa.
Sand the last coat of primer smooth with
fine sandpaper, and wipe with a tack rag.
Install the wing hold-down dowel and glue
with thin CA. Spray on a coat of gray
sandable primer. You can try sanding the
primer with 400-grit paper, but be extremely
careful not to sand through the primer.
Breaking through that surface can cause
bubbling in the final coat.
I spray the color coats directly over the
unsanded primer. Although instructions on the
paint can are to sand the primer, I can’t tell the
difference in the final color coat between
sanding and not sanding.
The fuselage and landing gear were
painted with Rust-Oleum Farm Equipment
spray in John Deere Yellow (item 7443-830).
I covered the wing and tail feathers with
yellow and dark-red Lightweight Transparent
Polycover from Hobby Lobby.
Assembly: Remove the covering from the top
of the stabilizer where the fin attaches, and
glue the fin in place. Use a triangle or
machine square to keep the fin 90° to the
stabilizer while the adhesive dries.
Add the 1/4-inch triangle stock bracing, and
48 MODEL AVIATION
Visit us online at www.OnTopoftheWorld.com
AT ON TOP OF THE WORLD COMMUNITIES!
Call today to schedule a
3 day/2 night visit and receive
special pricing on your stay!
C ll d h d l
HOMESÊFROMÊTHEÊMIDÊ$100ÕS*
FLY. RELAX. LIVE.
Find us on Facebook®
Take your passion for flying to a
whole new level!
Fly high in the morning. Play golf
in the afternoon. Then dance the
night away at On Top of the World
Communities’ Town Square.
There are so many things to do in this
amenity-rich, active adult community
including life long learning, over
200 clubs and organizations and
much more!
On Top of the World is flying and
so much more…it will take your life
to a new high!
800.421.4162
8445 SW 80th St., Ocala, FL 34481
Historic LOW
NEW HOME PRICING
and much more!
Call today for details.
OnTop
*Prices subject to change. 55+ community. Void where prohibited by law.
© 2010 On Top of the World Communities, Inc.
#7619-11/10
cover to match. Dry-fit the tail group to the
fuselage, and mark the locations and angles of
the control horns. Screw both control horns
into position.
Remove the covering from the bottom of
the stabilizer where it mates to the fuselage and
attach with 30-minute epoxy. Use a
straightedge placed along the fin and headrest
to align the tail group. Pin the tail group in
place and allow the epoxy to set.
Screw the landing gear in place with the
nylon landing gear straps. If you snug the
screws holding the straps, the wire will be
allowed to slide a little on hard landings,
reducing the stress on the gear and fuselage.
Mount the servos and finish the control
runs. Set the control throws at approximately
3/8 inch either way for the first flights.
Install the motor and electronics, and make
all of the electrical connections. Attach the
propeller adapter and propeller.
Rubber-band the wing in place, and set the
battery on the battery tray. Balance the model
by placing your fingertips under the main spar,
near the ends of the wing. Slide the battery
back and forth until Miss-E hangs level or
slightly nose-down. Mine balanced perfectly
with the battery pushed all the way forward.
Flying: Pick a calm day for the first flight, if
possible. They day I made mine, the wind was
blowing 10-15 mph. Although I don’t
recommend those conditions, it was the last
day a visiting friend could take flying pictures.
The Miss-E bounced around the sky but
proved to have enough power and control
authority to fly in windy conditions. A not-sograceful
landing, when a gust caught the
model, proved the integrity of the design, and
the airplane came through undamaged.
If you launch the model by hand, do so
straight ahead at approximately one-third to
half throttle. As do all lightly loaded aircraft
with flat-bottomed wings, Miss-E will climb
under power. The 4° downthrust helps, but you
can never totally cure the tendency to climb
under advancing throttle. I like to trim the
airplane to fly hands-off on a calm day at close
to half throttle.
Miss-E is capable of mild aerobatics such as
loops, but it was designed for relaxed cruising
around the flying field. With its light weight,
fairly large frontal area, and big propeller, this
model does not glide well with the power off.
It’s best to keep the propeller turning and cut
the power at touchdown.
I hope you enjoy building and flying Miss-E as
much as I have. MA
Rodney Helgeland
[email protected]
Sources:
KILZ
(866) 325-3552
www.masterchem.com
Rust-Oleum
(800) 323-3584
www.rustoleum.com
Hobby Lobby
(866) 512-1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:36 PM Page 48