Mister-E - 2011/05

50 MODEL AVIATION
The fuselage structure employs a tab-and-slot design for easy alignment.
I WANTED A small electric-powered
model that would fit—completely
assembled—in my Honda coupe so I could
go flying without mighty preparation and a
ton of ancillary equipment.
Although many ARF and RTF
candidates are capable of fulfilling this
requirement, I am very much a scratch
builder. Thus I set to the task of creating a
design. In addition to being able to fit in my
car, it had to be rugged, capable of tolerating
wind, and able to take off and land on a
grass field.
I decided to build a pseudo-1930s-style
pursuit aircraft—something that Smilin’
Jack might have flown. Do a Google search
for “Smilin’ Jack,” which was Zack
Mosley’s comic strip that ran from 1933 to
1973.
Jack was always flying something cool,
whether it was an original from Mr.
Mosley’s mind or a J-3 Cub that was
completely detailed and recognizable as
such. And then there was “Fat Stuff,” but I
digress.
After making several pencil sketches of
my proposed project, I set to work.
DesignCAD has become the tool I normally
use for design. It has limitations, but I’ve
learned to work around them.
by Fred Randall
Mister-E
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:38 PM Page 50
Above: The LG wire attaches directly to the spar
for additional strength.
Left: Rib stubs, used while building the wing, have
been trimmed flush.
Besides, I enjoy using DesignCAD to
draw scale motors, servos, and pilots.
Better still, I can make patterns to have my
model parts laser-cut at Creative Hobbies,
which is only 4 miles from my house.
Another bonus is that the company sells
a laser-cut kit for this aircraft, including
most plywood and balsa parts. The only
unusual item I used in construction was a
.317 fiberglass composite main spar.
You can buy inexpensive fiberglass
composite tubing from Goodwinds LLC
and Kite Studio, which have no minimumorder
requirements. I have included their
contact information in the “Sources”
listing.
The accompanying photos show
variations in the Mister-E design, because I
built two models and each had slightly
different details. The plans set is for the
final version. Feel free to make your own
alterations; that’s what scratch-building is
all about.
Because I had planned to share this
project with MA readers from the outset, I
put the battery compartment on the
balance point. This allows the builder to
use different-size batteries without
affecting balance.
I used short pushrods to the tailplane
and separate servos for the ailerons,
providing positive control and allowing
the builder to program flaperons if desired.
The control surfaces are large enough for
all but the most advanced aerobatics.
Plans show an E-flite Park 480 1020 Kv
motor. I consider that a minimum for good
performance. The model is rugged enough
to use anything up to a Power 10. The
maximum battery size is probably a threecell,
2500 mAh Li-Poly. Modifications to
the motor-mount box and cowl are
necessary to accommodate larger motors.
Depending on the motor you use, some
nose ballast might be required to properly
balance the airplane. A good place to put
ballast is within the motor-mount cube.
When using the Park 480, a polished
aluminum spinner provides proper ballast.
It’s attractive, and no additional ballast is
necessary.
Photos by the author
A racy-looking sport model
that’s no secret to build
The comple te ly assembled Mi ster-E
shou ld f it in alm ost any vehicle.
May 2011 51
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:40 PM Page 51
52 MODEL AVIATION
Right: This view of
the wing before covering
provides a good look at the
sheeting. It starts at the top
centermost spar, wraps around the
LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
Above: Fred used several pieces of 3/8
balsa sheet to make the cowl, and then
he shaped it into the final form using a
razor plane and a sanding block.
Right: The assembled motor box is designed to
give the motor 3° right thrust and downthrust.
Right: Thoroughly light-sanding the
parts ensures a great finish once the
model is covered. Test-fitting the parts
prior to covering is also a good idea.
Type: RC electric sport/aerobatic
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 391/2 inches
Wing area: 290 square inches
Length: 32 inches
Weight: 31 ounces
Mister-E
Power: E-flite Park 480 outrunner; threecell,
2100-2500 mAh Li-Poly battery
Construction: Balsa
Covering/finish: LighTex iron-on film
Propeller: APC 11 x 6
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:41 PM Page 52
May 2011 53
Right: The battery and ESC are easy to access
through the hatch.
Left: The LG wire enters the wing through
a small slot at the front of the servo plate
and then a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently very strong.
Right above: The underside of the Mister-E has plenty of
room in which to mount the receiver.
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:43 PM Page 53
54 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—See Page 167
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:44 PM Page 54
Before you begin, bear in mind that the
Mister-E is not a park flyer (unless the park
is huge). It flies fast and needs room. It is
designed to fly from a club field or
equivalent space.
CONSTRUCTION
Fuselage: If you are not building from the
laser-cut kit, fabricate all parts before you
start construction. Once you have the parts at
hand, assembly goes rapidly. Use medium
CA unless otherwise noted.
The fuselage is based on a snap-together
box featuring tab-and-slot design, for
automatic alignment. Snap together F1, F2,
F3, F4, F5, and the wing anchor plate, and
then snap on the 1/16 balsa fuselage doublers.
Then apply thin CA to all joints for
permanent assembly.
The inside of the 3/32 balsa sides should
be marked with the locations of F6 and F7.
Test-fit the sides for alignment, being
careful to ensure that the aft ends of both
sides will mate properly when they are
joined later during the build.
Adhere the two 1/8 plywood servoreinforcement
pieces inside the fuselage
sides.
Carefully assemble the six-piece motormount
box using CA. All of the parts are
designed to give the motor 3° right thrust
and downthrust, so it is important that you
assemble the box correctly.
Adhere the box to F1 using epoxy,
ensuring that it is offset as indicated on the
fuselage drawing. This sets the propeller
shaft on the model’s centerline.
There is a hole in the back of the box.
You can use a small screw or put more
epoxy in it to ensure that the box is
permanently attached to the firewall. While
you’re at it, apply epoxy fillets to the inside
joints of the motor-mount box to ensure
strength.
Fashion a tail post as plans show. Notice
that it extends up to the top of the turtledeck.
Pull the fuselage sides together, and use
T-pins to temporarily sandwich the tail post.
Using the fuselage top view as a guide,
ensure that the tail post is centered and
square with the sides. When you are satisfied
that it is, apply a couple drops of thin CA to
the joint.
Position F6 and F7 at their stations
within the fuselage. When they are aligned,
use thin CA to permanently install them.
Apply more CA to the tail post/fuselage side
joint.
Fabricating the hatch requires care to
ensure a good fit. Pin F1a and F4a against
F1 and F4 respectively. Make sure that they
are flush with their counterparts.
Patterns for the 3/32 balsa hatch sides are
slightly oversized. Position them on the
fuselage over F1a and F4a. There will be a
slight twist in the hatch sides when attached
to the formers. The sides should overlap F1a
and be flush with the front of F1.
Carefully sand the bottoms of the hatch
sides so that they mate flush with the
fuselage along their lengths. Use CA to
adhere the hatch sides to F1a and F4a (only).
The twist in the hatch sides necessitates that
they be held in place long enough for the CA
to set.
Remove the pins from F1a and F4a. Lift
the hatch assembly off of the fuselage and,
using a long sanding block, sand the tops of
the hatch sides so that they are flush with the
tops of the formers.
When the job is finished, the hatch top,
which is also slightly oversized, should lay
flat on the top of the hatch assembly. Use
CA to adhere the hatch top in place, and then
block-sand it so that it mates with the hatch
sides along its length. If fabricated correctly,
the hatch will fit the fuselage well.
Cement in the hatch locating dowels.
They should align the hatch and enable a
small rare earth magnet, or magnets, to
secure the hatch at the front.
Continue planking the fuselage,
including the cockpit surround and the
turtledeck. Again, judicious use of the
sanding block is required.
Install the 1/16 cockpit floor, along with
the fuselage bottom from the wing TE to the
tail post. Leave the bottom open, ahead of
the wing LE, at this time. Notice that the
cockpit forward area is open to the fuselage
interior, providing an exit for cooling air.
This completes the initial fuselage
assembly, and we can turn our attention to
the wings.
Wing: As a preliminary operation, cement
together the 1/16 balsa wingtip laminations
using thin CA. They should be cross-grained
to each other for maximum strength.
Secure the right wing plan to your
building board. After cutting a length of 1/8
square basswood to size, use T-pins to attach
it in position as the centermost bottom spar.
You will use this spar as a reference for
building the entire wing.
Using a small square to keep it vertical,
position an R1 root rib in place and use CA
to adhere it to the spar. The break-off tab at
the aft bottom of the rib should lay flat on
the plans, and the rib should be held in
alignment until the CA sets.
Follow suit with the rest of the ribs.
Ensure that the bottoms of all break-off tabs
are flat on the plans.
Cut a piece of 1/4 hardwood dowel LE to
length, mount it to the front of the ribs, and
secure it with CA. Cut all upper spars to
length and glue them in place.
Using a 9/16-inch-high piece of scrap
balsa as a support, attach the wingtip
extending straight outward from the LE and
TE, bisecting the airfoil.
Cut a length of 3/8 x 1/4 balsa to form the
wing TE. Shape it, to match the drawing,
using a razor plane and a sanding block.
Remove the partially completed wing
from the building board and adhere the TE
in position. Install the remaining 1/8 square
spars. Lay the completed wing frame on the
building board; all break-off stubs should be
flat against it.
Remove the right wing plan from the
building board and secure the left wing plan
in its place. Heed this instruction; it is easy
to find yourself with two complete wings
for one side of the model. That would be a
blow to your patience, if not your selfesteem.
Follow the right-wing instructions
to build the left wing.
Next is the servo-plate installation. Cut
several 1/8 square basswood sticks to length
and adhere them to the servo plates using
CA, as the plans show. These provide
additional surface for bonding the plates to
the ribs. Use CA to secure the servo plates
to the wings, as close to flush with the
bottoms of the ribs as possible.
It’s time to fit the 1/8 light-plywood
webbing that provides a mount for the front
wing pegs. These measure approximately 1/2
x 13/32 but should be cut slightly oversize
and sanded so that they are a push fit
between the R1 ribs and the front upper and
lower 1/8 square spars on each wing.
Apply CA to the webbing to hold it in
place. Don’t spare glue here; this webbing
needs to stay put!
Plank both wings with 1/16 balsa, as
shown on the plans. The front planking
starts at the top centermost spar, wraps
around the LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
If you use thin CA to bond a 4-inch-wide
sheet and a 3-inch sheet, you can avoid
buying wing skins. Simply match the sheets
for hardness. One 36-inch sheet of each
width will cover both LEs.
Employing Windex facilitates making
the sharp bend around the LE. Liberally
spray both sides of the balsa and wait at
least five minutes before attempting the
bend.
Recheck the wings, ensuring that the
break-off stubs are still flat. If everything
checks out, break off the stubs and sand the
area smooth.
I chose to entirely plank both sides of the
wingtips. It’s a builder’s option. I’m not the
best at covering, and the planked tips work
well.
The remaining wing planking and
capstrips require one sheet of 1/16 x 4 x 36
balsa.
Wing Fitment: Cut and predrill the
composite spar. The holes must be properly
positioned at both ends. I used a piece of
pine strapping with a finishing nail driven
vertically into it, making a simple fixture to
ensure that the second hole is parallel to the
first when positioned in my drill press.
When you have completed the planking,
use the .317 composite spar to assemble the
wings. Do not permanently join them at this
time. Hold the root ribs together tightly
using masking tape on the bottom of the
wings.
Position the wings in the fuselage wingmount
recess. If necessary, you can remove
material from the balsa TEs so that the
wings seat properly.
Looking through the peg holes in F3, use
a pencil to mark the position of the dowels
on the webbing that you installed in the
wings. This is why the forward fuselage
planking was not installed previously.
Remove the wings from the fuselage and
drill the webbing for the 1/4 x 1/2 wingmounting
dowels. Cut the dowels to size
and then slightly bevel the fronts.
Use CA to adhere the dowels to the
webbing. They should extend approximately
3/8 inch from the front of the mounting plate.
When the CA has set, test-fit the wings.
If you’ve done the job right, they should be
seated properly, with the pegs inserted into
the holes in F3. Now you can install the 1/16
balsa fuselage bottom piece.
Carefully measure the location of the
holes in the rear mounting plate. Mark the
corresponding hole locations on the joined
wings. Drill them out with a 1/16- and then a
1/4-inch drill bit.
Ensure that the path to the rear winganchor-
bolt locations is clear. These holes
might seem large, but the 1/8 light-plywood
reinforcements have smaller holes and will
be applied next. The hole through the wings
should allow easy passage of the wing
mounting bolts.
Ailerons: There are two options for making
the ailerons; they can be built up using a 3/16
square LE and 1/16 balsa sheet or simply
shaped from 5/16 x 11/2-inch tapered balsa
aileron stock.
I doubt that either method offers a
weight advantage, but in both cases the
aileron LE should be shaped to mate with its
respective wing TE. You might choose the
built-up route because of materials you have
on hand. I opted to use the shaped stock.
Empennage: The first order of business is
to join the elevator halves. I am not a fan of
joiner wires, because they tend to be flexible
enough to allow flutter at high speed. For
that reason I used a 5-inch piece of 1/8 x 1/4
basswood as a joiner. (If you don’t have the
correct-size basswood in stock, you can
adhere two pieces of 1/8 square basswood
spar stock to make it. I won’t tell if you
don’t!)
Secure the elevator plan to the building
board. Secure the elevator halves and the
joiner to the plans, to ensure proper span
and alignment. The joiner’s LE should be
shaped for hinging before you adhere it with
medium CA to the elevator halves.
Test-fit the fin and stabilizer at this time.
Cut the tail post away from the stabilizer
slot, and then find the centerline of the 1/8
balsa stabilizer and insert it into the
fuselage. Ensure that it is straight and that
the TE is flush with the back of the fuselage.
Shim or trim the slot as necessary to align
the stabilizer.
Insert the fin into its slot. It should be
vertical, and its bottom should seat against
the stabilizer. After making it so, remove
the fin and stabilizer until after you have
covered the model.
Landing Gear, Etc.: Remaining tasks
May 2011 57
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58 MODEL AVIATION
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include beveling and hinging the control
surfaces, covering and installing the
empennage, and installing equipment. The
only item that needs a bit of clarification is
mounting the landing gear (LG).
The procedure I’ll describe results in a
wide-track LG that has proven to be nearly
unbreakable. Follow the steps in sequence.
The technique is a bit unusual but not
difficult.
The main composite spar is used as an
inner anchor for the LG wire. Before
installation, cut the spar to length and drill
1/8-inch holes in both ends. The holes must
be parallel with each other and positioned
directly over the small slot at the front of the
servo plates. Use the plans as a guide to
position the holes.
Bend the LG wire to shape using the
diagram on the plans. Do not make the bend
where the wire attaches to the spar, but mark
the wire where the bend will be made.
The LG wire enters the wing through the
small slot at the front of the servo plate and
then through a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently extremely strong.
Wing and LG assembly should proceed as
follows.
Cover both wing bottoms (only), and then
clear the small slot in the servo plate. Insert
the predrilled composite main spar into
position in one wing, with the drilled hole
directly above the slot.
Insert the LG wire through the slot and
through the hole in the spar. Push the wire
through far enough to provide easy access to
the top so you can make the 90° bend.
Using the appropriate tools, make the
bend at the position you marked. It should be
parallel to the wheel mount bend at the
bottom.
Lower the LG wire until the bend rests on
the spar. Use two small tie-wraps to secure
the LG wire to the spar. Ensure that the
mounted wheel will track straight. Small
wheel-tracking errors can be compensated
for at the spar.
Mix a batch of 30-minute epoxy, and use
it to join the wings. Employ clamps or
masking tape to hold the wings while the
epoxy cures.
Install the LG wire on the remaining side
using the same procedure that you previously
followed. Secure the LG wires to the spar
with 30-minute epoxy. This completes the
LG mounting procedure.
Make small holes in the wing planking,
adjacent to the root ribs, for passage of the
servo wires. Install the wing servos and run
the wires. Now you can cover the tops of
both wings.
The faux gear doors are optional, but they
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:50 PM Page 58
add much to the overall appearance of the
model. The doors are attached using Sig
wheel pant mounts (item SIGSH726).
Spacers cut from fuel tubing provide a fore
and aft shock mount.
The top part of the gear doors are secured
using backing plates from a pair of small
control horns. Fuel-tubing spacers are also
used here. This arrangement allows the LG
wire to flex considerably without stressing
the 1/8 plywood gear doors.
I sprayed the inside of the gear doors
with Flat Black Krylon before covering the
outside with LighTex that is the same color
as the fuselage.
Cowl: The balsa cowl must accommodate
the motor you use, so I haven’t provided
dimensions for it. See the article “Cowl
Making 101” in the November 2008 MA to
see my method of making this part.
The cowl was produced with several
pieces of 3/8 balsa sheet. But first I used a
hole saw to make a balsa disc to fit the
spinner I used—a 13/4-inch aluminum unit—
then cut a large-enough hole in the disc to
accommodate a small drum sander.
I opened the resulting balsa “doughnut”
to be slightly larger than the motor diameter.
In the case of the Park 480, that is slightly
bigger than 13/8 inches.
I cut two pieces of 3/8 sheet to form the
sides of the cowl and another to form the
top. I adhered those pieces to the cowl ring
after I carefully shaped them to form a flush
fit against the ring and the firewall.
A short bottom piece extends from the
cowl ring halfway to the firewall. The
resultant gap provides cooling-air intake for
the ESC and battery.
I used a razor plane and a sanding block
to shape the assembly into its final form, and
then I applied balsa filler to any gaps. After
the filler hardened, I finish-sanded the
assembly with 400-grit paper.
I applied several coats of Top Flite white
primer to the cowl. After wet-sanding it, I
gave it several coats of Krylon True Blue.
The color matches the covering almost
exactly.
Finishing: I used LighTex blue for the
fuselage, fin, and rudder, and I used
cadmium yellow for the wings, stabilizer,
and elevator.
I applied homemade water-slide decals to
the rudder. Along with the 13 alternating redand-
white stripes, it is emblazoned with the
name that I gave the little model: “MR E.”
Early World War II insignia was applied
to the wings and fuselage, and a black
multistripe “V” pattern was applied to the
top side of the wings.
Hinging was accomplished using CAtype
cloth hinges—full sized on the wings
and half width on the empennage.
Setup: It is incredibly important,
particularly in a short-coupled design such
as this, that the parts alignment is accurate—
particularly the wing/stabilizer angle of
incidence. If you don’t have an incidence
gauge, try to borrow one. The acceptable
angle of incidence is between 0° and 1/4°.
Ensure that the stabilizer, elevators, fin,
and rudder are not warped. If they are, you
can rectify the problem with clamps and a
heat gun.
Proper balance is important, and the
balance point should be 2-23/8 inches behind
the wing LE. Make first flights with the
balance nearer to the 2-inch mark.
Flying: Mister-E has large control surfaces
and a short tail-moment arm, making it
extraordinarily sensitive to control inputs.
You should provide no more than 1/4 inch of
deflection on the ailerons and elevator (in
each direction), at least to begin.
The rudder is equally sensitive, and it’s a
good idea to limit deflection to 3/8 inch on
both sides until you are used to flying the
airplane.
If you have a computer radio, program
approximately 40% exponential. High rates
can be double the stated low rate deflection,
but exponential programming is the way to
go. It is also good to program flaperons if
your transmitter is capable.
The noted sensitivity suggests that this
model is better suited for an experienced
pilot. In any event, a light touch on the
sticks is best when learning to fly Mister-E.
Takeoff, particularly from a grass field,
requires the use of full up-elevator until
flying speed is achieved, usually in 20 or
fewer feet!
This model is a joy to fly, once you get
comfortable with it. With greater control
deflection, it is capable of the tightest loops
this side of a foamie and the roll rate can be
dizzying.
Make landing approaches with some
power applied. That being noted, the
airplane tends to float in. It’s merely a
matter of setting up a glide slope and
applying a bit of up-elevator upon
touchdown to keep the tail planted.
Have fun building and flying Mister-E. It’s
great to have a unique model to bring to the
field.
Keep ’em flying! MA
Fred Randall
[email protected]
Sources:
Creative Hobbies
(508) 473-8259
www.creativehobbies.net
Goodwinds LLC
(206) 632-6151
www.goodwinds.com
Kite Studio
(610) 395-3560
www.kitebuilder.com
Balsa and light plywood:
Balsa USA
(906) 863-6421
www.balsausa.com

50 MODEL AVIATION
The fuselage structure employs a tab-and-slot design for easy alignment.
I WANTED A small electric-powered
model that would fit—completely
assembled—in my Honda coupe so I could
go flying without mighty preparation and a
ton of ancillary equipment.
Although many ARF and RTF
candidates are capable of fulfilling this
requirement, I am very much a scratch
builder. Thus I set to the task of creating a
design. In addition to being able to fit in my
car, it had to be rugged, capable of tolerating
wind, and able to take off and land on a
grass field.
I decided to build a pseudo-1930s-style
pursuit aircraft—something that Smilin’
Jack might have flown. Do a Google search
for “Smilin’ Jack,” which was Zack
Mosley’s comic strip that ran from 1933 to
1973.
Jack was always flying something cool,
whether it was an original from Mr.
Mosley’s mind or a J-3 Cub that was
completely detailed and recognizable as
such. And then there was “Fat Stuff,” but I
digress.
After making several pencil sketches of
my proposed project, I set to work.
DesignCAD has become the tool I normally
use for design. It has limitations, but I’ve
learned to work around them.
by Fred Randall
Mister-E
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:38 PM Page 50
Above: The LG wire attaches directly to the spar
for additional strength.
Left: Rib stubs, used while building the wing, have
been trimmed flush.
Besides, I enjoy using DesignCAD to
draw scale motors, servos, and pilots.
Better still, I can make patterns to have my
model parts laser-cut at Creative Hobbies,
which is only 4 miles from my house.
Another bonus is that the company sells
a laser-cut kit for this aircraft, including
most plywood and balsa parts. The only
unusual item I used in construction was a
.317 fiberglass composite main spar.
You can buy inexpensive fiberglass
composite tubing from Goodwinds LLC
and Kite Studio, which have no minimumorder
requirements. I have included their
contact information in the “Sources”
listing.
The accompanying photos show
variations in the Mister-E design, because I
built two models and each had slightly
different details. The plans set is for the
final version. Feel free to make your own
alterations; that’s what scratch-building is
all about.
Because I had planned to share this
project with MA readers from the outset, I
put the battery compartment on the
balance point. This allows the builder to
use different-size batteries without
affecting balance.
I used short pushrods to the tailplane
and separate servos for the ailerons,
providing positive control and allowing
the builder to program flaperons if desired.
The control surfaces are large enough for
all but the most advanced aerobatics.
Plans show an E-flite Park 480 1020 Kv
motor. I consider that a minimum for good
performance. The model is rugged enough
to use anything up to a Power 10. The
maximum battery size is probably a threecell,
2500 mAh Li-Poly. Modifications to
the motor-mount box and cowl are
necessary to accommodate larger motors.
Depending on the motor you use, some
nose ballast might be required to properly
balance the airplane. A good place to put
ballast is within the motor-mount cube.
When using the Park 480, a polished
aluminum spinner provides proper ballast.
It’s attractive, and no additional ballast is
necessary.
Photos by the author
A racy-looking sport model
that’s no secret to build
The comple te ly assembled Mi ster-E
shou ld f it in alm ost any vehicle.
May 2011 51
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:40 PM Page 51
52 MODEL AVIATION
Right: This view of
the wing before covering
provides a good look at the
sheeting. It starts at the top
centermost spar, wraps around the
LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
Above: Fred used several pieces of 3/8
balsa sheet to make the cowl, and then
he shaped it into the final form using a
razor plane and a sanding block.
Right: The assembled motor box is designed to
give the motor 3° right thrust and downthrust.
Right: Thoroughly light-sanding the
parts ensures a great finish once the
model is covered. Test-fitting the parts
prior to covering is also a good idea.
Type: RC electric sport/aerobatic
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 391/2 inches
Wing area: 290 square inches
Length: 32 inches
Weight: 31 ounces
Mister-E
Power: E-flite Park 480 outrunner; threecell,
2100-2500 mAh Li-Poly battery
Construction: Balsa
Covering/finish: LighTex iron-on film
Propeller: APC 11 x 6
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:41 PM Page 52
May 2011 53
Right: The battery and ESC are easy to access
through the hatch.
Left: The LG wire enters the wing through
a small slot at the front of the servo plate
and then a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently very strong.
Right above: The underside of the Mister-E has plenty of
room in which to mount the receiver.
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:43 PM Page 53
54 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—See Page 167
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:44 PM Page 54
Before you begin, bear in mind that the
Mister-E is not a park flyer (unless the park
is huge). It flies fast and needs room. It is
designed to fly from a club field or
equivalent space.
CONSTRUCTION
Fuselage: If you are not building from the
laser-cut kit, fabricate all parts before you
start construction. Once you have the parts at
hand, assembly goes rapidly. Use medium
CA unless otherwise noted.
The fuselage is based on a snap-together
box featuring tab-and-slot design, for
automatic alignment. Snap together F1, F2,
F3, F4, F5, and the wing anchor plate, and
then snap on the 1/16 balsa fuselage doublers.
Then apply thin CA to all joints for
permanent assembly.
The inside of the 3/32 balsa sides should
be marked with the locations of F6 and F7.
Test-fit the sides for alignment, being
careful to ensure that the aft ends of both
sides will mate properly when they are
joined later during the build.
Adhere the two 1/8 plywood servoreinforcement
pieces inside the fuselage
sides.
Carefully assemble the six-piece motormount
box using CA. All of the parts are
designed to give the motor 3° right thrust
and downthrust, so it is important that you
assemble the box correctly.
Adhere the box to F1 using epoxy,
ensuring that it is offset as indicated on the
fuselage drawing. This sets the propeller
shaft on the model’s centerline.
There is a hole in the back of the box.
You can use a small screw or put more
epoxy in it to ensure that the box is
permanently attached to the firewall. While
you’re at it, apply epoxy fillets to the inside
joints of the motor-mount box to ensure
strength.
Fashion a tail post as plans show. Notice
that it extends up to the top of the turtledeck.
Pull the fuselage sides together, and use
T-pins to temporarily sandwich the tail post.
Using the fuselage top view as a guide,
ensure that the tail post is centered and
square with the sides. When you are satisfied
that it is, apply a couple drops of thin CA to
the joint.
Position F6 and F7 at their stations
within the fuselage. When they are aligned,
use thin CA to permanently install them.
Apply more CA to the tail post/fuselage side
joint.
Fabricating the hatch requires care to
ensure a good fit. Pin F1a and F4a against
F1 and F4 respectively. Make sure that they
are flush with their counterparts.
Patterns for the 3/32 balsa hatch sides are
slightly oversized. Position them on the
fuselage over F1a and F4a. There will be a
slight twist in the hatch sides when attached
to the formers. The sides should overlap F1a
and be flush with the front of F1.
Carefully sand the bottoms of the hatch
sides so that they mate flush with the
fuselage along their lengths. Use CA to
adhere the hatch sides to F1a and F4a (only).
The twist in the hatch sides necessitates that
they be held in place long enough for the CA
to set.
Remove the pins from F1a and F4a. Lift
the hatch assembly off of the fuselage and,
using a long sanding block, sand the tops of
the hatch sides so that they are flush with the
tops of the formers.
When the job is finished, the hatch top,
which is also slightly oversized, should lay
flat on the top of the hatch assembly. Use
CA to adhere the hatch top in place, and then
block-sand it so that it mates with the hatch
sides along its length. If fabricated correctly,
the hatch will fit the fuselage well.
Cement in the hatch locating dowels.
They should align the hatch and enable a
small rare earth magnet, or magnets, to
secure the hatch at the front.
Continue planking the fuselage,
including the cockpit surround and the
turtledeck. Again, judicious use of the
sanding block is required.
Install the 1/16 cockpit floor, along with
the fuselage bottom from the wing TE to the
tail post. Leave the bottom open, ahead of
the wing LE, at this time. Notice that the
cockpit forward area is open to the fuselage
interior, providing an exit for cooling air.
This completes the initial fuselage
assembly, and we can turn our attention to
the wings.
Wing: As a preliminary operation, cement
together the 1/16 balsa wingtip laminations
using thin CA. They should be cross-grained
to each other for maximum strength.
Secure the right wing plan to your
building board. After cutting a length of 1/8
square basswood to size, use T-pins to attach
it in position as the centermost bottom spar.
You will use this spar as a reference for
building the entire wing.
Using a small square to keep it vertical,
position an R1 root rib in place and use CA
to adhere it to the spar. The break-off tab at
the aft bottom of the rib should lay flat on
the plans, and the rib should be held in
alignment until the CA sets.
Follow suit with the rest of the ribs.
Ensure that the bottoms of all break-off tabs
are flat on the plans.
Cut a piece of 1/4 hardwood dowel LE to
length, mount it to the front of the ribs, and
secure it with CA. Cut all upper spars to
length and glue them in place.
Using a 9/16-inch-high piece of scrap
balsa as a support, attach the wingtip
extending straight outward from the LE and
TE, bisecting the airfoil.
Cut a length of 3/8 x 1/4 balsa to form the
wing TE. Shape it, to match the drawing,
using a razor plane and a sanding block.
Remove the partially completed wing
from the building board and adhere the TE
in position. Install the remaining 1/8 square
spars. Lay the completed wing frame on the
building board; all break-off stubs should be
flat against it.
Remove the right wing plan from the
building board and secure the left wing plan
in its place. Heed this instruction; it is easy
to find yourself with two complete wings
for one side of the model. That would be a
blow to your patience, if not your selfesteem.
Follow the right-wing instructions
to build the left wing.
Next is the servo-plate installation. Cut
several 1/8 square basswood sticks to length
and adhere them to the servo plates using
CA, as the plans show. These provide
additional surface for bonding the plates to
the ribs. Use CA to secure the servo plates
to the wings, as close to flush with the
bottoms of the ribs as possible.
It’s time to fit the 1/8 light-plywood
webbing that provides a mount for the front
wing pegs. These measure approximately 1/2
x 13/32 but should be cut slightly oversize
and sanded so that they are a push fit
between the R1 ribs and the front upper and
lower 1/8 square spars on each wing.
Apply CA to the webbing to hold it in
place. Don’t spare glue here; this webbing
needs to stay put!
Plank both wings with 1/16 balsa, as
shown on the plans. The front planking
starts at the top centermost spar, wraps
around the LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
If you use thin CA to bond a 4-inch-wide
sheet and a 3-inch sheet, you can avoid
buying wing skins. Simply match the sheets
for hardness. One 36-inch sheet of each
width will cover both LEs.
Employing Windex facilitates making
the sharp bend around the LE. Liberally
spray both sides of the balsa and wait at
least five minutes before attempting the
bend.
Recheck the wings, ensuring that the
break-off stubs are still flat. If everything
checks out, break off the stubs and sand the
area smooth.
I chose to entirely plank both sides of the
wingtips. It’s a builder’s option. I’m not the
best at covering, and the planked tips work
well.
The remaining wing planking and
capstrips require one sheet of 1/16 x 4 x 36
balsa.
Wing Fitment: Cut and predrill the
composite spar. The holes must be properly
positioned at both ends. I used a piece of
pine strapping with a finishing nail driven
vertically into it, making a simple fixture to
ensure that the second hole is parallel to the
first when positioned in my drill press.
When you have completed the planking,
use the .317 composite spar to assemble the
wings. Do not permanently join them at this
time. Hold the root ribs together tightly
using masking tape on the bottom of the
wings.
Position the wings in the fuselage wingmount
recess. If necessary, you can remove
material from the balsa TEs so that the
wings seat properly.
Looking through the peg holes in F3, use
a pencil to mark the position of the dowels
on the webbing that you installed in the
wings. This is why the forward fuselage
planking was not installed previously.
Remove the wings from the fuselage and
drill the webbing for the 1/4 x 1/2 wingmounting
dowels. Cut the dowels to size
and then slightly bevel the fronts.
Use CA to adhere the dowels to the
webbing. They should extend approximately
3/8 inch from the front of the mounting plate.
When the CA has set, test-fit the wings.
If you’ve done the job right, they should be
seated properly, with the pegs inserted into
the holes in F3. Now you can install the 1/16
balsa fuselage bottom piece.
Carefully measure the location of the
holes in the rear mounting plate. Mark the
corresponding hole locations on the joined
wings. Drill them out with a 1/16- and then a
1/4-inch drill bit.
Ensure that the path to the rear winganchor-
bolt locations is clear. These holes
might seem large, but the 1/8 light-plywood
reinforcements have smaller holes and will
be applied next. The hole through the wings
should allow easy passage of the wing
mounting bolts.
Ailerons: There are two options for making
the ailerons; they can be built up using a 3/16
square LE and 1/16 balsa sheet or simply
shaped from 5/16 x 11/2-inch tapered balsa
aileron stock.
I doubt that either method offers a
weight advantage, but in both cases the
aileron LE should be shaped to mate with its
respective wing TE. You might choose the
built-up route because of materials you have
on hand. I opted to use the shaped stock.
Empennage: The first order of business is
to join the elevator halves. I am not a fan of
joiner wires, because they tend to be flexible
enough to allow flutter at high speed. For
that reason I used a 5-inch piece of 1/8 x 1/4
basswood as a joiner. (If you don’t have the
correct-size basswood in stock, you can
adhere two pieces of 1/8 square basswood
spar stock to make it. I won’t tell if you
don’t!)
Secure the elevator plan to the building
board. Secure the elevator halves and the
joiner to the plans, to ensure proper span
and alignment. The joiner’s LE should be
shaped for hinging before you adhere it with
medium CA to the elevator halves.
Test-fit the fin and stabilizer at this time.
Cut the tail post away from the stabilizer
slot, and then find the centerline of the 1/8
balsa stabilizer and insert it into the
fuselage. Ensure that it is straight and that
the TE is flush with the back of the fuselage.
Shim or trim the slot as necessary to align
the stabilizer.
Insert the fin into its slot. It should be
vertical, and its bottom should seat against
the stabilizer. After making it so, remove
the fin and stabilizer until after you have
covered the model.
Landing Gear, Etc.: Remaining tasks
May 2011 57
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05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:49 PM Page 57
58 MODEL AVIATION
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include beveling and hinging the control
surfaces, covering and installing the
empennage, and installing equipment. The
only item that needs a bit of clarification is
mounting the landing gear (LG).
The procedure I’ll describe results in a
wide-track LG that has proven to be nearly
unbreakable. Follow the steps in sequence.
The technique is a bit unusual but not
difficult.
The main composite spar is used as an
inner anchor for the LG wire. Before
installation, cut the spar to length and drill
1/8-inch holes in both ends. The holes must
be parallel with each other and positioned
directly over the small slot at the front of the
servo plates. Use the plans as a guide to
position the holes.
Bend the LG wire to shape using the
diagram on the plans. Do not make the bend
where the wire attaches to the spar, but mark
the wire where the bend will be made.
The LG wire enters the wing through the
small slot at the front of the servo plate and
then through a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently extremely strong.
Wing and LG assembly should proceed as
follows.
Cover both wing bottoms (only), and then
clear the small slot in the servo plate. Insert
the predrilled composite main spar into
position in one wing, with the drilled hole
directly above the slot.
Insert the LG wire through the slot and
through the hole in the spar. Push the wire
through far enough to provide easy access to
the top so you can make the 90° bend.
Using the appropriate tools, make the
bend at the position you marked. It should be
parallel to the wheel mount bend at the
bottom.
Lower the LG wire until the bend rests on
the spar. Use two small tie-wraps to secure
the LG wire to the spar. Ensure that the
mounted wheel will track straight. Small
wheel-tracking errors can be compensated
for at the spar.
Mix a batch of 30-minute epoxy, and use
it to join the wings. Employ clamps or
masking tape to hold the wings while the
epoxy cures.
Install the LG wire on the remaining side
using the same procedure that you previously
followed. Secure the LG wires to the spar
with 30-minute epoxy. This completes the
LG mounting procedure.
Make small holes in the wing planking,
adjacent to the root ribs, for passage of the
servo wires. Install the wing servos and run
the wires. Now you can cover the tops of
both wings.
The faux gear doors are optional, but they
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:50 PM Page 58
add much to the overall appearance of the
model. The doors are attached using Sig
wheel pant mounts (item SIGSH726).
Spacers cut from fuel tubing provide a fore
and aft shock mount.
The top part of the gear doors are secured
using backing plates from a pair of small
control horns. Fuel-tubing spacers are also
used here. This arrangement allows the LG
wire to flex considerably without stressing
the 1/8 plywood gear doors.
I sprayed the inside of the gear doors
with Flat Black Krylon before covering the
outside with LighTex that is the same color
as the fuselage.
Cowl: The balsa cowl must accommodate
the motor you use, so I haven’t provided
dimensions for it. See the article “Cowl
Making 101” in the November 2008 MA to
see my method of making this part.
The cowl was produced with several
pieces of 3/8 balsa sheet. But first I used a
hole saw to make a balsa disc to fit the
spinner I used—a 13/4-inch aluminum unit—
then cut a large-enough hole in the disc to
accommodate a small drum sander.
I opened the resulting balsa “doughnut”
to be slightly larger than the motor diameter.
In the case of the Park 480, that is slightly
bigger than 13/8 inches.
I cut two pieces of 3/8 sheet to form the
sides of the cowl and another to form the
top. I adhered those pieces to the cowl ring
after I carefully shaped them to form a flush
fit against the ring and the firewall.
A short bottom piece extends from the
cowl ring halfway to the firewall. The
resultant gap provides cooling-air intake for
the ESC and battery.
I used a razor plane and a sanding block
to shape the assembly into its final form, and
then I applied balsa filler to any gaps. After
the filler hardened, I finish-sanded the
assembly with 400-grit paper.
I applied several coats of Top Flite white
primer to the cowl. After wet-sanding it, I
gave it several coats of Krylon True Blue.
The color matches the covering almost
exactly.
Finishing: I used LighTex blue for the
fuselage, fin, and rudder, and I used
cadmium yellow for the wings, stabilizer,
and elevator.
I applied homemade water-slide decals to
the rudder. Along with the 13 alternating redand-
white stripes, it is emblazoned with the
name that I gave the little model: “MR E.”
Early World War II insignia was applied
to the wings and fuselage, and a black
multistripe “V” pattern was applied to the
top side of the wings.
Hinging was accomplished using CAtype
cloth hinges—full sized on the wings
and half width on the empennage.
Setup: It is incredibly important,
particularly in a short-coupled design such
as this, that the parts alignment is accurate—
particularly the wing/stabilizer angle of
incidence. If you don’t have an incidence
gauge, try to borrow one. The acceptable
angle of incidence is between 0° and 1/4°.
Ensure that the stabilizer, elevators, fin,
and rudder are not warped. If they are, you
can rectify the problem with clamps and a
heat gun.
Proper balance is important, and the
balance point should be 2-23/8 inches behind
the wing LE. Make first flights with the
balance nearer to the 2-inch mark.
Flying: Mister-E has large control surfaces
and a short tail-moment arm, making it
extraordinarily sensitive to control inputs.
You should provide no more than 1/4 inch of
deflection on the ailerons and elevator (in
each direction), at least to begin.
The rudder is equally sensitive, and it’s a
good idea to limit deflection to 3/8 inch on
both sides until you are used to flying the
airplane.
If you have a computer radio, program
approximately 40% exponential. High rates
can be double the stated low rate deflection,
but exponential programming is the way to
go. It is also good to program flaperons if
your transmitter is capable.
The noted sensitivity suggests that this
model is better suited for an experienced
pilot. In any event, a light touch on the
sticks is best when learning to fly Mister-E.
Takeoff, particularly from a grass field,
requires the use of full up-elevator until
flying speed is achieved, usually in 20 or
fewer feet!
This model is a joy to fly, once you get
comfortable with it. With greater control
deflection, it is capable of the tightest loops
this side of a foamie and the roll rate can be
dizzying.
Make landing approaches with some
power applied. That being noted, the
airplane tends to float in. It’s merely a
matter of setting up a glide slope and
applying a bit of up-elevator upon
touchdown to keep the tail planted.
Have fun building and flying Mister-E. It’s
great to have a unique model to bring to the
field.
Keep ’em flying! MA
Fred Randall
[email protected]
Sources:
Creative Hobbies
(508) 473-8259
www.creativehobbies.net
Goodwinds LLC
(206) 632-6151
www.goodwinds.com
Kite Studio
(610) 395-3560
www.kitebuilder.com
Balsa and light plywood:
Balsa USA
(906) 863-6421
www.balsausa.com

50 MODEL AVIATION
The fuselage structure employs a tab-and-slot design for easy alignment.
I WANTED A small electric-powered
model that would fit—completely
assembled—in my Honda coupe so I could
go flying without mighty preparation and a
ton of ancillary equipment.
Although many ARF and RTF
candidates are capable of fulfilling this
requirement, I am very much a scratch
builder. Thus I set to the task of creating a
design. In addition to being able to fit in my
car, it had to be rugged, capable of tolerating
wind, and able to take off and land on a
grass field.
I decided to build a pseudo-1930s-style
pursuit aircraft—something that Smilin’
Jack might have flown. Do a Google search
for “Smilin’ Jack,” which was Zack
Mosley’s comic strip that ran from 1933 to
1973.
Jack was always flying something cool,
whether it was an original from Mr.
Mosley’s mind or a J-3 Cub that was
completely detailed and recognizable as
such. And then there was “Fat Stuff,” but I
digress.
After making several pencil sketches of
my proposed project, I set to work.
DesignCAD has become the tool I normally
use for design. It has limitations, but I’ve
learned to work around them.
by Fred Randall
Mister-E
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:38 PM Page 50
Above: The LG wire attaches directly to the spar
for additional strength.
Left: Rib stubs, used while building the wing, have
been trimmed flush.
Besides, I enjoy using DesignCAD to
draw scale motors, servos, and pilots.
Better still, I can make patterns to have my
model parts laser-cut at Creative Hobbies,
which is only 4 miles from my house.
Another bonus is that the company sells
a laser-cut kit for this aircraft, including
most plywood and balsa parts. The only
unusual item I used in construction was a
.317 fiberglass composite main spar.
You can buy inexpensive fiberglass
composite tubing from Goodwinds LLC
and Kite Studio, which have no minimumorder
requirements. I have included their
contact information in the “Sources”
listing.
The accompanying photos show
variations in the Mister-E design, because I
built two models and each had slightly
different details. The plans set is for the
final version. Feel free to make your own
alterations; that’s what scratch-building is
all about.
Because I had planned to share this
project with MA readers from the outset, I
put the battery compartment on the
balance point. This allows the builder to
use different-size batteries without
affecting balance.
I used short pushrods to the tailplane
and separate servos for the ailerons,
providing positive control and allowing
the builder to program flaperons if desired.
The control surfaces are large enough for
all but the most advanced aerobatics.
Plans show an E-flite Park 480 1020 Kv
motor. I consider that a minimum for good
performance. The model is rugged enough
to use anything up to a Power 10. The
maximum battery size is probably a threecell,
2500 mAh Li-Poly. Modifications to
the motor-mount box and cowl are
necessary to accommodate larger motors.
Depending on the motor you use, some
nose ballast might be required to properly
balance the airplane. A good place to put
ballast is within the motor-mount cube.
When using the Park 480, a polished
aluminum spinner provides proper ballast.
It’s attractive, and no additional ballast is
necessary.
Photos by the author
A racy-looking sport model
that’s no secret to build
The comple te ly assembled Mi ster-E
shou ld f it in alm ost any vehicle.
May 2011 51
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:40 PM Page 51
52 MODEL AVIATION
Right: This view of
the wing before covering
provides a good look at the
sheeting. It starts at the top
centermost spar, wraps around the
LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
Above: Fred used several pieces of 3/8
balsa sheet to make the cowl, and then
he shaped it into the final form using a
razor plane and a sanding block.
Right: The assembled motor box is designed to
give the motor 3° right thrust and downthrust.
Right: Thoroughly light-sanding the
parts ensures a great finish once the
model is covered. Test-fitting the parts
prior to covering is also a good idea.
Type: RC electric sport/aerobatic
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 391/2 inches
Wing area: 290 square inches
Length: 32 inches
Weight: 31 ounces
Mister-E
Power: E-flite Park 480 outrunner; threecell,
2100-2500 mAh Li-Poly battery
Construction: Balsa
Covering/finish: LighTex iron-on film
Propeller: APC 11 x 6
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:41 PM Page 52
May 2011 53
Right: The battery and ESC are easy to access
through the hatch.
Left: The LG wire enters the wing through
a small slot at the front of the servo plate
and then a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently very strong.
Right above: The underside of the Mister-E has plenty of
room in which to mount the receiver.
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:43 PM Page 53
54 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—See Page 167
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:44 PM Page 54
Before you begin, bear in mind that the
Mister-E is not a park flyer (unless the park
is huge). It flies fast and needs room. It is
designed to fly from a club field or
equivalent space.
CONSTRUCTION
Fuselage: If you are not building from the
laser-cut kit, fabricate all parts before you
start construction. Once you have the parts at
hand, assembly goes rapidly. Use medium
CA unless otherwise noted.
The fuselage is based on a snap-together
box featuring tab-and-slot design, for
automatic alignment. Snap together F1, F2,
F3, F4, F5, and the wing anchor plate, and
then snap on the 1/16 balsa fuselage doublers.
Then apply thin CA to all joints for
permanent assembly.
The inside of the 3/32 balsa sides should
be marked with the locations of F6 and F7.
Test-fit the sides for alignment, being
careful to ensure that the aft ends of both
sides will mate properly when they are
joined later during the build.
Adhere the two 1/8 plywood servoreinforcement
pieces inside the fuselage
sides.
Carefully assemble the six-piece motormount
box using CA. All of the parts are
designed to give the motor 3° right thrust
and downthrust, so it is important that you
assemble the box correctly.
Adhere the box to F1 using epoxy,
ensuring that it is offset as indicated on the
fuselage drawing. This sets the propeller
shaft on the model’s centerline.
There is a hole in the back of the box.
You can use a small screw or put more
epoxy in it to ensure that the box is
permanently attached to the firewall. While
you’re at it, apply epoxy fillets to the inside
joints of the motor-mount box to ensure
strength.
Fashion a tail post as plans show. Notice
that it extends up to the top of the turtledeck.
Pull the fuselage sides together, and use
T-pins to temporarily sandwich the tail post.
Using the fuselage top view as a guide,
ensure that the tail post is centered and
square with the sides. When you are satisfied
that it is, apply a couple drops of thin CA to
the joint.
Position F6 and F7 at their stations
within the fuselage. When they are aligned,
use thin CA to permanently install them.
Apply more CA to the tail post/fuselage side
joint.
Fabricating the hatch requires care to
ensure a good fit. Pin F1a and F4a against
F1 and F4 respectively. Make sure that they
are flush with their counterparts.
Patterns for the 3/32 balsa hatch sides are
slightly oversized. Position them on the
fuselage over F1a and F4a. There will be a
slight twist in the hatch sides when attached
to the formers. The sides should overlap F1a
and be flush with the front of F1.
Carefully sand the bottoms of the hatch
sides so that they mate flush with the
fuselage along their lengths. Use CA to
adhere the hatch sides to F1a and F4a (only).
The twist in the hatch sides necessitates that
they be held in place long enough for the CA
to set.
Remove the pins from F1a and F4a. Lift
the hatch assembly off of the fuselage and,
using a long sanding block, sand the tops of
the hatch sides so that they are flush with the
tops of the formers.
When the job is finished, the hatch top,
which is also slightly oversized, should lay
flat on the top of the hatch assembly. Use
CA to adhere the hatch top in place, and then
block-sand it so that it mates with the hatch
sides along its length. If fabricated correctly,
the hatch will fit the fuselage well.
Cement in the hatch locating dowels.
They should align the hatch and enable a
small rare earth magnet, or magnets, to
secure the hatch at the front.
Continue planking the fuselage,
including the cockpit surround and the
turtledeck. Again, judicious use of the
sanding block is required.
Install the 1/16 cockpit floor, along with
the fuselage bottom from the wing TE to the
tail post. Leave the bottom open, ahead of
the wing LE, at this time. Notice that the
cockpit forward area is open to the fuselage
interior, providing an exit for cooling air.
This completes the initial fuselage
assembly, and we can turn our attention to
the wings.
Wing: As a preliminary operation, cement
together the 1/16 balsa wingtip laminations
using thin CA. They should be cross-grained
to each other for maximum strength.
Secure the right wing plan to your
building board. After cutting a length of 1/8
square basswood to size, use T-pins to attach
it in position as the centermost bottom spar.
You will use this spar as a reference for
building the entire wing.
Using a small square to keep it vertical,
position an R1 root rib in place and use CA
to adhere it to the spar. The break-off tab at
the aft bottom of the rib should lay flat on
the plans, and the rib should be held in
alignment until the CA sets.
Follow suit with the rest of the ribs.
Ensure that the bottoms of all break-off tabs
are flat on the plans.
Cut a piece of 1/4 hardwood dowel LE to
length, mount it to the front of the ribs, and
secure it with CA. Cut all upper spars to
length and glue them in place.
Using a 9/16-inch-high piece of scrap
balsa as a support, attach the wingtip
extending straight outward from the LE and
TE, bisecting the airfoil.
Cut a length of 3/8 x 1/4 balsa to form the
wing TE. Shape it, to match the drawing,
using a razor plane and a sanding block.
Remove the partially completed wing
from the building board and adhere the TE
in position. Install the remaining 1/8 square
spars. Lay the completed wing frame on the
building board; all break-off stubs should be
flat against it.
Remove the right wing plan from the
building board and secure the left wing plan
in its place. Heed this instruction; it is easy
to find yourself with two complete wings
for one side of the model. That would be a
blow to your patience, if not your selfesteem.
Follow the right-wing instructions
to build the left wing.
Next is the servo-plate installation. Cut
several 1/8 square basswood sticks to length
and adhere them to the servo plates using
CA, as the plans show. These provide
additional surface for bonding the plates to
the ribs. Use CA to secure the servo plates
to the wings, as close to flush with the
bottoms of the ribs as possible.
It’s time to fit the 1/8 light-plywood
webbing that provides a mount for the front
wing pegs. These measure approximately 1/2
x 13/32 but should be cut slightly oversize
and sanded so that they are a push fit
between the R1 ribs and the front upper and
lower 1/8 square spars on each wing.
Apply CA to the webbing to hold it in
place. Don’t spare glue here; this webbing
needs to stay put!
Plank both wings with 1/16 balsa, as
shown on the plans. The front planking
starts at the top centermost spar, wraps
around the LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
If you use thin CA to bond a 4-inch-wide
sheet and a 3-inch sheet, you can avoid
buying wing skins. Simply match the sheets
for hardness. One 36-inch sheet of each
width will cover both LEs.
Employing Windex facilitates making
the sharp bend around the LE. Liberally
spray both sides of the balsa and wait at
least five minutes before attempting the
bend.
Recheck the wings, ensuring that the
break-off stubs are still flat. If everything
checks out, break off the stubs and sand the
area smooth.
I chose to entirely plank both sides of the
wingtips. It’s a builder’s option. I’m not the
best at covering, and the planked tips work
well.
The remaining wing planking and
capstrips require one sheet of 1/16 x 4 x 36
balsa.
Wing Fitment: Cut and predrill the
composite spar. The holes must be properly
positioned at both ends. I used a piece of
pine strapping with a finishing nail driven
vertically into it, making a simple fixture to
ensure that the second hole is parallel to the
first when positioned in my drill press.
When you have completed the planking,
use the .317 composite spar to assemble the
wings. Do not permanently join them at this
time. Hold the root ribs together tightly
using masking tape on the bottom of the
wings.
Position the wings in the fuselage wingmount
recess. If necessary, you can remove
material from the balsa TEs so that the
wings seat properly.
Looking through the peg holes in F3, use
a pencil to mark the position of the dowels
on the webbing that you installed in the
wings. This is why the forward fuselage
planking was not installed previously.
Remove the wings from the fuselage and
drill the webbing for the 1/4 x 1/2 wingmounting
dowels. Cut the dowels to size
and then slightly bevel the fronts.
Use CA to adhere the dowels to the
webbing. They should extend approximately
3/8 inch from the front of the mounting plate.
When the CA has set, test-fit the wings.
If you’ve done the job right, they should be
seated properly, with the pegs inserted into
the holes in F3. Now you can install the 1/16
balsa fuselage bottom piece.
Carefully measure the location of the
holes in the rear mounting plate. Mark the
corresponding hole locations on the joined
wings. Drill them out with a 1/16- and then a
1/4-inch drill bit.
Ensure that the path to the rear winganchor-
bolt locations is clear. These holes
might seem large, but the 1/8 light-plywood
reinforcements have smaller holes and will
be applied next. The hole through the wings
should allow easy passage of the wing
mounting bolts.
Ailerons: There are two options for making
the ailerons; they can be built up using a 3/16
square LE and 1/16 balsa sheet or simply
shaped from 5/16 x 11/2-inch tapered balsa
aileron stock.
I doubt that either method offers a
weight advantage, but in both cases the
aileron LE should be shaped to mate with its
respective wing TE. You might choose the
built-up route because of materials you have
on hand. I opted to use the shaped stock.
Empennage: The first order of business is
to join the elevator halves. I am not a fan of
joiner wires, because they tend to be flexible
enough to allow flutter at high speed. For
that reason I used a 5-inch piece of 1/8 x 1/4
basswood as a joiner. (If you don’t have the
correct-size basswood in stock, you can
adhere two pieces of 1/8 square basswood
spar stock to make it. I won’t tell if you
don’t!)
Secure the elevator plan to the building
board. Secure the elevator halves and the
joiner to the plans, to ensure proper span
and alignment. The joiner’s LE should be
shaped for hinging before you adhere it with
medium CA to the elevator halves.
Test-fit the fin and stabilizer at this time.
Cut the tail post away from the stabilizer
slot, and then find the centerline of the 1/8
balsa stabilizer and insert it into the
fuselage. Ensure that it is straight and that
the TE is flush with the back of the fuselage.
Shim or trim the slot as necessary to align
the stabilizer.
Insert the fin into its slot. It should be
vertical, and its bottom should seat against
the stabilizer. After making it so, remove
the fin and stabilizer until after you have
covered the model.
Landing Gear, Etc.: Remaining tasks
May 2011 57
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58 MODEL AVIATION
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include beveling and hinging the control
surfaces, covering and installing the
empennage, and installing equipment. The
only item that needs a bit of clarification is
mounting the landing gear (LG).
The procedure I’ll describe results in a
wide-track LG that has proven to be nearly
unbreakable. Follow the steps in sequence.
The technique is a bit unusual but not
difficult.
The main composite spar is used as an
inner anchor for the LG wire. Before
installation, cut the spar to length and drill
1/8-inch holes in both ends. The holes must
be parallel with each other and positioned
directly over the small slot at the front of the
servo plates. Use the plans as a guide to
position the holes.
Bend the LG wire to shape using the
diagram on the plans. Do not make the bend
where the wire attaches to the spar, but mark
the wire where the bend will be made.
The LG wire enters the wing through the
small slot at the front of the servo plate and
then through a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently extremely strong.
Wing and LG assembly should proceed as
follows.
Cover both wing bottoms (only), and then
clear the small slot in the servo plate. Insert
the predrilled composite main spar into
position in one wing, with the drilled hole
directly above the slot.
Insert the LG wire through the slot and
through the hole in the spar. Push the wire
through far enough to provide easy access to
the top so you can make the 90° bend.
Using the appropriate tools, make the
bend at the position you marked. It should be
parallel to the wheel mount bend at the
bottom.
Lower the LG wire until the bend rests on
the spar. Use two small tie-wraps to secure
the LG wire to the spar. Ensure that the
mounted wheel will track straight. Small
wheel-tracking errors can be compensated
for at the spar.
Mix a batch of 30-minute epoxy, and use
it to join the wings. Employ clamps or
masking tape to hold the wings while the
epoxy cures.
Install the LG wire on the remaining side
using the same procedure that you previously
followed. Secure the LG wires to the spar
with 30-minute epoxy. This completes the
LG mounting procedure.
Make small holes in the wing planking,
adjacent to the root ribs, for passage of the
servo wires. Install the wing servos and run
the wires. Now you can cover the tops of
both wings.
The faux gear doors are optional, but they
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:50 PM Page 58
add much to the overall appearance of the
model. The doors are attached using Sig
wheel pant mounts (item SIGSH726).
Spacers cut from fuel tubing provide a fore
and aft shock mount.
The top part of the gear doors are secured
using backing plates from a pair of small
control horns. Fuel-tubing spacers are also
used here. This arrangement allows the LG
wire to flex considerably without stressing
the 1/8 plywood gear doors.
I sprayed the inside of the gear doors
with Flat Black Krylon before covering the
outside with LighTex that is the same color
as the fuselage.
Cowl: The balsa cowl must accommodate
the motor you use, so I haven’t provided
dimensions for it. See the article “Cowl
Making 101” in the November 2008 MA to
see my method of making this part.
The cowl was produced with several
pieces of 3/8 balsa sheet. But first I used a
hole saw to make a balsa disc to fit the
spinner I used—a 13/4-inch aluminum unit—
then cut a large-enough hole in the disc to
accommodate a small drum sander.
I opened the resulting balsa “doughnut”
to be slightly larger than the motor diameter.
In the case of the Park 480, that is slightly
bigger than 13/8 inches.
I cut two pieces of 3/8 sheet to form the
sides of the cowl and another to form the
top. I adhered those pieces to the cowl ring
after I carefully shaped them to form a flush
fit against the ring and the firewall.
A short bottom piece extends from the
cowl ring halfway to the firewall. The
resultant gap provides cooling-air intake for
the ESC and battery.
I used a razor plane and a sanding block
to shape the assembly into its final form, and
then I applied balsa filler to any gaps. After
the filler hardened, I finish-sanded the
assembly with 400-grit paper.
I applied several coats of Top Flite white
primer to the cowl. After wet-sanding it, I
gave it several coats of Krylon True Blue.
The color matches the covering almost
exactly.
Finishing: I used LighTex blue for the
fuselage, fin, and rudder, and I used
cadmium yellow for the wings, stabilizer,
and elevator.
I applied homemade water-slide decals to
the rudder. Along with the 13 alternating redand-
white stripes, it is emblazoned with the
name that I gave the little model: “MR E.”
Early World War II insignia was applied
to the wings and fuselage, and a black
multistripe “V” pattern was applied to the
top side of the wings.
Hinging was accomplished using CAtype
cloth hinges—full sized on the wings
and half width on the empennage.
Setup: It is incredibly important,
particularly in a short-coupled design such
as this, that the parts alignment is accurate—
particularly the wing/stabilizer angle of
incidence. If you don’t have an incidence
gauge, try to borrow one. The acceptable
angle of incidence is between 0° and 1/4°.
Ensure that the stabilizer, elevators, fin,
and rudder are not warped. If they are, you
can rectify the problem with clamps and a
heat gun.
Proper balance is important, and the
balance point should be 2-23/8 inches behind
the wing LE. Make first flights with the
balance nearer to the 2-inch mark.
Flying: Mister-E has large control surfaces
and a short tail-moment arm, making it
extraordinarily sensitive to control inputs.
You should provide no more than 1/4 inch of
deflection on the ailerons and elevator (in
each direction), at least to begin.
The rudder is equally sensitive, and it’s a
good idea to limit deflection to 3/8 inch on
both sides until you are used to flying the
airplane.
If you have a computer radio, program
approximately 40% exponential. High rates
can be double the stated low rate deflection,
but exponential programming is the way to
go. It is also good to program flaperons if
your transmitter is capable.
The noted sensitivity suggests that this
model is better suited for an experienced
pilot. In any event, a light touch on the
sticks is best when learning to fly Mister-E.
Takeoff, particularly from a grass field,
requires the use of full up-elevator until
flying speed is achieved, usually in 20 or
fewer feet!
This model is a joy to fly, once you get
comfortable with it. With greater control
deflection, it is capable of the tightest loops
this side of a foamie and the roll rate can be
dizzying.
Make landing approaches with some
power applied. That being noted, the
airplane tends to float in. It’s merely a
matter of setting up a glide slope and
applying a bit of up-elevator upon
touchdown to keep the tail planted.
Have fun building and flying Mister-E. It’s
great to have a unique model to bring to the
field.
Keep ’em flying! MA
Fred Randall
[email protected]
Sources:
Creative Hobbies
(508) 473-8259
www.creativehobbies.net
Goodwinds LLC
(206) 632-6151
www.goodwinds.com
Kite Studio
(610) 395-3560
www.kitebuilder.com
Balsa and light plywood:
Balsa USA
(906) 863-6421
www.balsausa.com

50 MODEL AVIATION
The fuselage structure employs a tab-and-slot design for easy alignment.
I WANTED A small electric-powered
model that would fit—completely
assembled—in my Honda coupe so I could
go flying without mighty preparation and a
ton of ancillary equipment.
Although many ARF and RTF
candidates are capable of fulfilling this
requirement, I am very much a scratch
builder. Thus I set to the task of creating a
design. In addition to being able to fit in my
car, it had to be rugged, capable of tolerating
wind, and able to take off and land on a
grass field.
I decided to build a pseudo-1930s-style
pursuit aircraft—something that Smilin’
Jack might have flown. Do a Google search
for “Smilin’ Jack,” which was Zack
Mosley’s comic strip that ran from 1933 to
1973.
Jack was always flying something cool,
whether it was an original from Mr.
Mosley’s mind or a J-3 Cub that was
completely detailed and recognizable as
such. And then there was “Fat Stuff,” but I
digress.
After making several pencil sketches of
my proposed project, I set to work.
DesignCAD has become the tool I normally
use for design. It has limitations, but I’ve
learned to work around them.
by Fred Randall
Mister-E
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:38 PM Page 50
Above: The LG wire attaches directly to the spar
for additional strength.
Left: Rib stubs, used while building the wing, have
been trimmed flush.
Besides, I enjoy using DesignCAD to
draw scale motors, servos, and pilots.
Better still, I can make patterns to have my
model parts laser-cut at Creative Hobbies,
which is only 4 miles from my house.
Another bonus is that the company sells
a laser-cut kit for this aircraft, including
most plywood and balsa parts. The only
unusual item I used in construction was a
.317 fiberglass composite main spar.
You can buy inexpensive fiberglass
composite tubing from Goodwinds LLC
and Kite Studio, which have no minimumorder
requirements. I have included their
contact information in the “Sources”
listing.
The accompanying photos show
variations in the Mister-E design, because I
built two models and each had slightly
different details. The plans set is for the
final version. Feel free to make your own
alterations; that’s what scratch-building is
all about.
Because I had planned to share this
project with MA readers from the outset, I
put the battery compartment on the
balance point. This allows the builder to
use different-size batteries without
affecting balance.
I used short pushrods to the tailplane
and separate servos for the ailerons,
providing positive control and allowing
the builder to program flaperons if desired.
The control surfaces are large enough for
all but the most advanced aerobatics.
Plans show an E-flite Park 480 1020 Kv
motor. I consider that a minimum for good
performance. The model is rugged enough
to use anything up to a Power 10. The
maximum battery size is probably a threecell,
2500 mAh Li-Poly. Modifications to
the motor-mount box and cowl are
necessary to accommodate larger motors.
Depending on the motor you use, some
nose ballast might be required to properly
balance the airplane. A good place to put
ballast is within the motor-mount cube.
When using the Park 480, a polished
aluminum spinner provides proper ballast.
It’s attractive, and no additional ballast is
necessary.
Photos by the author
A racy-looking sport model
that’s no secret to build
The comple te ly assembled Mi ster-E
shou ld f it in alm ost any vehicle.
May 2011 51
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:40 PM Page 51
52 MODEL AVIATION
Right: This view of
the wing before covering
provides a good look at the
sheeting. It starts at the top
centermost spar, wraps around the
LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
Above: Fred used several pieces of 3/8
balsa sheet to make the cowl, and then
he shaped it into the final form using a
razor plane and a sanding block.
Right: The assembled motor box is designed to
give the motor 3° right thrust and downthrust.
Right: Thoroughly light-sanding the
parts ensures a great finish once the
model is covered. Test-fitting the parts
prior to covering is also a good idea.
Type: RC electric sport/aerobatic
Skill level: Intermediate builder;
intermediate pilot
Wingspan: 391/2 inches
Wing area: 290 square inches
Length: 32 inches
Weight: 31 ounces
Mister-E
Power: E-flite Park 480 outrunner; threecell,
2100-2500 mAh Li-Poly battery
Construction: Balsa
Covering/finish: LighTex iron-on film
Propeller: APC 11 x 6
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:41 PM Page 52
May 2011 53
Right: The battery and ESC are easy to access
through the hatch.
Left: The LG wire enters the wing through
a small slot at the front of the servo plate
and then a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently very strong.
Right above: The underside of the Mister-E has plenty of
room in which to mount the receiver.
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:43 PM Page 53
54 MODEL AVIATION
Full-Size Plans Available—See Page 167
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:44 PM Page 54
Before you begin, bear in mind that the
Mister-E is not a park flyer (unless the park
is huge). It flies fast and needs room. It is
designed to fly from a club field or
equivalent space.
CONSTRUCTION
Fuselage: If you are not building from the
laser-cut kit, fabricate all parts before you
start construction. Once you have the parts at
hand, assembly goes rapidly. Use medium
CA unless otherwise noted.
The fuselage is based on a snap-together
box featuring tab-and-slot design, for
automatic alignment. Snap together F1, F2,
F3, F4, F5, and the wing anchor plate, and
then snap on the 1/16 balsa fuselage doublers.
Then apply thin CA to all joints for
permanent assembly.
The inside of the 3/32 balsa sides should
be marked with the locations of F6 and F7.
Test-fit the sides for alignment, being
careful to ensure that the aft ends of both
sides will mate properly when they are
joined later during the build.
Adhere the two 1/8 plywood servoreinforcement
pieces inside the fuselage
sides.
Carefully assemble the six-piece motormount
box using CA. All of the parts are
designed to give the motor 3° right thrust
and downthrust, so it is important that you
assemble the box correctly.
Adhere the box to F1 using epoxy,
ensuring that it is offset as indicated on the
fuselage drawing. This sets the propeller
shaft on the model’s centerline.
There is a hole in the back of the box.
You can use a small screw or put more
epoxy in it to ensure that the box is
permanently attached to the firewall. While
you’re at it, apply epoxy fillets to the inside
joints of the motor-mount box to ensure
strength.
Fashion a tail post as plans show. Notice
that it extends up to the top of the turtledeck.
Pull the fuselage sides together, and use
T-pins to temporarily sandwich the tail post.
Using the fuselage top view as a guide,
ensure that the tail post is centered and
square with the sides. When you are satisfied
that it is, apply a couple drops of thin CA to
the joint.
Position F6 and F7 at their stations
within the fuselage. When they are aligned,
use thin CA to permanently install them.
Apply more CA to the tail post/fuselage side
joint.
Fabricating the hatch requires care to
ensure a good fit. Pin F1a and F4a against
F1 and F4 respectively. Make sure that they
are flush with their counterparts.
Patterns for the 3/32 balsa hatch sides are
slightly oversized. Position them on the
fuselage over F1a and F4a. There will be a
slight twist in the hatch sides when attached
to the formers. The sides should overlap F1a
and be flush with the front of F1.
Carefully sand the bottoms of the hatch
sides so that they mate flush with the
fuselage along their lengths. Use CA to
adhere the hatch sides to F1a and F4a (only).
The twist in the hatch sides necessitates that
they be held in place long enough for the CA
to set.
Remove the pins from F1a and F4a. Lift
the hatch assembly off of the fuselage and,
using a long sanding block, sand the tops of
the hatch sides so that they are flush with the
tops of the formers.
When the job is finished, the hatch top,
which is also slightly oversized, should lay
flat on the top of the hatch assembly. Use
CA to adhere the hatch top in place, and then
block-sand it so that it mates with the hatch
sides along its length. If fabricated correctly,
the hatch will fit the fuselage well.
Cement in the hatch locating dowels.
They should align the hatch and enable a
small rare earth magnet, or magnets, to
secure the hatch at the front.
Continue planking the fuselage,
including the cockpit surround and the
turtledeck. Again, judicious use of the
sanding block is required.
Install the 1/16 cockpit floor, along with
the fuselage bottom from the wing TE to the
tail post. Leave the bottom open, ahead of
the wing LE, at this time. Notice that the
cockpit forward area is open to the fuselage
interior, providing an exit for cooling air.
This completes the initial fuselage
assembly, and we can turn our attention to
the wings.
Wing: As a preliminary operation, cement
together the 1/16 balsa wingtip laminations
using thin CA. They should be cross-grained
to each other for maximum strength.
Secure the right wing plan to your
building board. After cutting a length of 1/8
square basswood to size, use T-pins to attach
it in position as the centermost bottom spar.
You will use this spar as a reference for
building the entire wing.
Using a small square to keep it vertical,
position an R1 root rib in place and use CA
to adhere it to the spar. The break-off tab at
the aft bottom of the rib should lay flat on
the plans, and the rib should be held in
alignment until the CA sets.
Follow suit with the rest of the ribs.
Ensure that the bottoms of all break-off tabs
are flat on the plans.
Cut a piece of 1/4 hardwood dowel LE to
length, mount it to the front of the ribs, and
secure it with CA. Cut all upper spars to
length and glue them in place.
Using a 9/16-inch-high piece of scrap
balsa as a support, attach the wingtip
extending straight outward from the LE and
TE, bisecting the airfoil.
Cut a length of 3/8 x 1/4 balsa to form the
wing TE. Shape it, to match the drawing,
using a razor plane and a sanding block.
Remove the partially completed wing
from the building board and adhere the TE
in position. Install the remaining 1/8 square
spars. Lay the completed wing frame on the
building board; all break-off stubs should be
flat against it.
Remove the right wing plan from the
building board and secure the left wing plan
in its place. Heed this instruction; it is easy
to find yourself with two complete wings
for one side of the model. That would be a
blow to your patience, if not your selfesteem.
Follow the right-wing instructions
to build the left wing.
Next is the servo-plate installation. Cut
several 1/8 square basswood sticks to length
and adhere them to the servo plates using
CA, as the plans show. These provide
additional surface for bonding the plates to
the ribs. Use CA to secure the servo plates
to the wings, as close to flush with the
bottoms of the ribs as possible.
It’s time to fit the 1/8 light-plywood
webbing that provides a mount for the front
wing pegs. These measure approximately 1/2
x 13/32 but should be cut slightly oversize
and sanded so that they are a push fit
between the R1 ribs and the front upper and
lower 1/8 square spars on each wing.
Apply CA to the webbing to hold it in
place. Don’t spare glue here; this webbing
needs to stay put!
Plank both wings with 1/16 balsa, as
shown on the plans. The front planking
starts at the top centermost spar, wraps
around the LE, and terminates at the bottom
centermost spar.
If you use thin CA to bond a 4-inch-wide
sheet and a 3-inch sheet, you can avoid
buying wing skins. Simply match the sheets
for hardness. One 36-inch sheet of each
width will cover both LEs.
Employing Windex facilitates making
the sharp bend around the LE. Liberally
spray both sides of the balsa and wait at
least five minutes before attempting the
bend.
Recheck the wings, ensuring that the
break-off stubs are still flat. If everything
checks out, break off the stubs and sand the
area smooth.
I chose to entirely plank both sides of the
wingtips. It’s a builder’s option. I’m not the
best at covering, and the planked tips work
well.
The remaining wing planking and
capstrips require one sheet of 1/16 x 4 x 36
balsa.
Wing Fitment: Cut and predrill the
composite spar. The holes must be properly
positioned at both ends. I used a piece of
pine strapping with a finishing nail driven
vertically into it, making a simple fixture to
ensure that the second hole is parallel to the
first when positioned in my drill press.
When you have completed the planking,
use the .317 composite spar to assemble the
wings. Do not permanently join them at this
time. Hold the root ribs together tightly
using masking tape on the bottom of the
wings.
Position the wings in the fuselage wingmount
recess. If necessary, you can remove
material from the balsa TEs so that the
wings seat properly.
Looking through the peg holes in F3, use
a pencil to mark the position of the dowels
on the webbing that you installed in the
wings. This is why the forward fuselage
planking was not installed previously.
Remove the wings from the fuselage and
drill the webbing for the 1/4 x 1/2 wingmounting
dowels. Cut the dowels to size
and then slightly bevel the fronts.
Use CA to adhere the dowels to the
webbing. They should extend approximately
3/8 inch from the front of the mounting plate.
When the CA has set, test-fit the wings.
If you’ve done the job right, they should be
seated properly, with the pegs inserted into
the holes in F3. Now you can install the 1/16
balsa fuselage bottom piece.
Carefully measure the location of the
holes in the rear mounting plate. Mark the
corresponding hole locations on the joined
wings. Drill them out with a 1/16- and then a
1/4-inch drill bit.
Ensure that the path to the rear winganchor-
bolt locations is clear. These holes
might seem large, but the 1/8 light-plywood
reinforcements have smaller holes and will
be applied next. The hole through the wings
should allow easy passage of the wing
mounting bolts.
Ailerons: There are two options for making
the ailerons; they can be built up using a 3/16
square LE and 1/16 balsa sheet or simply
shaped from 5/16 x 11/2-inch tapered balsa
aileron stock.
I doubt that either method offers a
weight advantage, but in both cases the
aileron LE should be shaped to mate with its
respective wing TE. You might choose the
built-up route because of materials you have
on hand. I opted to use the shaped stock.
Empennage: The first order of business is
to join the elevator halves. I am not a fan of
joiner wires, because they tend to be flexible
enough to allow flutter at high speed. For
that reason I used a 5-inch piece of 1/8 x 1/4
basswood as a joiner. (If you don’t have the
correct-size basswood in stock, you can
adhere two pieces of 1/8 square basswood
spar stock to make it. I won’t tell if you
don’t!)
Secure the elevator plan to the building
board. Secure the elevator halves and the
joiner to the plans, to ensure proper span
and alignment. The joiner’s LE should be
shaped for hinging before you adhere it with
medium CA to the elevator halves.
Test-fit the fin and stabilizer at this time.
Cut the tail post away from the stabilizer
slot, and then find the centerline of the 1/8
balsa stabilizer and insert it into the
fuselage. Ensure that it is straight and that
the TE is flush with the back of the fuselage.
Shim or trim the slot as necessary to align
the stabilizer.
Insert the fin into its slot. It should be
vertical, and its bottom should seat against
the stabilizer. After making it so, remove
the fin and stabilizer until after you have
covered the model.
Landing Gear, Etc.: Remaining tasks
May 2011 57
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include beveling and hinging the control
surfaces, covering and installing the
empennage, and installing equipment. The
only item that needs a bit of clarification is
mounting the landing gear (LG).
The procedure I’ll describe results in a
wide-track LG that has proven to be nearly
unbreakable. Follow the steps in sequence.
The technique is a bit unusual but not
difficult.
The main composite spar is used as an
inner anchor for the LG wire. Before
installation, cut the spar to length and drill
1/8-inch holes in both ends. The holes must
be parallel with each other and positioned
directly over the small slot at the front of the
servo plates. Use the plans as a guide to
position the holes.
Bend the LG wire to shape using the
diagram on the plans. Do not make the bend
where the wire attaches to the spar, but mark
the wire where the bend will be made.
The LG wire enters the wing through the
small slot at the front of the servo plate and
then through a hole in the main spar. This
provides a two-point mounting that is
inherently extremely strong.
Wing and LG assembly should proceed as
follows.
Cover both wing bottoms (only), and then
clear the small slot in the servo plate. Insert
the predrilled composite main spar into
position in one wing, with the drilled hole
directly above the slot.
Insert the LG wire through the slot and
through the hole in the spar. Push the wire
through far enough to provide easy access to
the top so you can make the 90° bend.
Using the appropriate tools, make the
bend at the position you marked. It should be
parallel to the wheel mount bend at the
bottom.
Lower the LG wire until the bend rests on
the spar. Use two small tie-wraps to secure
the LG wire to the spar. Ensure that the
mounted wheel will track straight. Small
wheel-tracking errors can be compensated
for at the spar.
Mix a batch of 30-minute epoxy, and use
it to join the wings. Employ clamps or
masking tape to hold the wings while the
epoxy cures.
Install the LG wire on the remaining side
using the same procedure that you previously
followed. Secure the LG wires to the spar
with 30-minute epoxy. This completes the
LG mounting procedure.
Make small holes in the wing planking,
adjacent to the root ribs, for passage of the
servo wires. Install the wing servos and run
the wires. Now you can cover the tops of
both wings.
The faux gear doors are optional, but they
05sig2.QXD_00MSTRPG.QXD 3/22/11 1:50 PM Page 58
add much to the overall appearance of the
model. The doors are attached using Sig
wheel pant mounts (item SIGSH726).
Spacers cut from fuel tubing provide a fore
and aft shock mount.
The top part of the gear doors are secured
using backing plates from a pair of small
control horns. Fuel-tubing spacers are also
used here. This arrangement allows the LG
wire to flex considerably without stressing
the 1/8 plywood gear doors.
I sprayed the inside of the gear doors
with Flat Black Krylon before covering the
outside with LighTex that is the same color
as the fuselage.
Cowl: The balsa cowl must accommodate
the motor you use, so I haven’t provided
dimensions for it. See the article “Cowl
Making 101” in the November 2008 MA to
see my method of making this part.
The cowl was produced with several
pieces of 3/8 balsa sheet. But first I used a
hole saw to make a balsa disc to fit the
spinner I used—a 13/4-inch aluminum unit—
then cut a large-enough hole in the disc to
accommodate a small drum sander.
I opened the resulting balsa “doughnut”
to be slightly larger than the motor diameter.
In the case of the Park 480, that is slightly
bigger than 13/8 inches.
I cut two pieces of 3/8 sheet to form the
sides of the cowl and another to form the
top. I adhered those pieces to the cowl ring
after I carefully shaped them to form a flush
fit against the ring and the firewall.
A short bottom piece extends from the
cowl ring halfway to the firewall. The
resultant gap provides cooling-air intake for
the ESC and battery.
I used a razor plane and a sanding block
to shape the assembly into its final form, and
then I applied balsa filler to any gaps. After
the filler hardened, I finish-sanded the
assembly with 400-grit paper.
I applied several coats of Top Flite white
primer to the cowl. After wet-sanding it, I
gave it several coats of Krylon True Blue.
The color matches the covering almost
exactly.
Finishing: I used LighTex blue for the
fuselage, fin, and rudder, and I used
cadmium yellow for the wings, stabilizer,
and elevator.
I applied homemade water-slide decals to
the rudder. Along with the 13 alternating redand-
white stripes, it is emblazoned with the
name that I gave the little model: “MR E.”
Early World War II insignia was applied
to the wings and fuselage, and a black
multistripe “V” pattern was applied to the
top side of the wings.
Hinging was accomplished using CAtype
cloth hinges—full sized on the wings
and half width on the empennage.
Setup: It is incredibly important,
particularly in a short-coupled design such
as this, that the parts alignment is accurate—
particularly the wing/stabilizer angle of
incidence. If you don’t have an incidence
gauge, try to borrow one. The acceptable
angle of incidence is between 0° and 1/4°.
Ensure that the stabilizer, elevators, fin,
and rudder are not warped. If they are, you
can rectify the problem with clamps and a
heat gun.
Proper balance is important, and the
balance point should be 2-23/8 inches behind
the wing LE. Make first flights with the
balance nearer to the 2-inch mark.
Flying: Mister-E has large control surfaces
and a short tail-moment arm, making it
extraordinarily sensitive to control inputs.
You should provide no more than 1/4 inch of
deflection on the ailerons and elevator (in
each direction), at least to begin.
The rudder is equally sensitive, and it’s a
good idea to limit deflection to 3/8 inch on
both sides until you are used to flying the
airplane.
If you have a computer radio, program
approximately 40% exponential. High rates
can be double the stated low rate deflection,
but exponential programming is the way to
go. It is also good to program flaperons if
your transmitter is capable.
The noted sensitivity suggests that this
model is better suited for an experienced
pilot. In any event, a light touch on the
sticks is best when learning to fly Mister-E.
Takeoff, particularly from a grass field,
requires the use of full up-elevator until
flying speed is achieved, usually in 20 or
fewer feet!
This model is a joy to fly, once you get
comfortable with it. With greater control
deflection, it is capable of the tightest loops
this side of a foamie and the roll rate can be
dizzying.
Make landing approaches with some
power applied. That being noted, the
airplane tends to float in. It’s merely a
matter of setting up a glide slope and
applying a bit of up-elevator upon
touchdown to keep the tail planted.
Have fun building and flying Mister-E. It’s
great to have a unique model to bring to the
field.
Keep ’em flying! MA
Fred Randall
[email protected]
Sources:
Creative Hobbies
(508) 473-8259
www.creativehobbies.net
Goodwinds LLC
(206) 632-6151
www.goodwinds.com
Kite Studio
(610) 395-3560
www.kitebuilder.com
Balsa and light plywood:
Balsa USA
(906) 863-6421
www.balsausa.com