OLD-TIME (OT) FF and RC fliers often
spend time sharing airspace with various
soaring birds. Hawks, vultures, eagles,
seagulls, ravens, etc. also enjoy the thermals
and often point them out for us. One thing
the birds have in common is that their
behavior improves as they get to know us
and what nice people modelers are.
The vultures (aka turkey buzzards) are
the most numerous in my area. As
scavengers, they have no talons and are
generally shyer than the other birds. They
usually steer away from a soaring model.
However, after you’ve flown in an area and
gotten acquainted, they’ll often let your
model join their thermal or even come over
and join it. It’s a neat experience.
The hawks are often more aggressive
and will sometimes make a bluffing pass or
even attack a model. But they also seem to
learn tolerance after they realize that you’re
not there to share their food supply. Then
they’ll either ignore you or occasionally
share a thermal.
Awhile back at our local field, Jim
Bierbauer was flying a 1/2A model when I
heard a “whump” at altitude, followed by an
“Oh no!” from him. Looking up, I saw Jim’s
crippled airplane spiraling down and an
eagle leaving the scene of the mugging.
The bird headed west, probably on its
way home to Vandenberg Air Force Base
(on the central coast of California), where
several eagles reside. It was a passing
stranger in the neighborhood. We couldn’t
figure out if it thought the model was prey
or was simply practicing when it hit the
airplane amidships with both talons, right
behind the wing and forward of the
stabilizer.
In Praise of Wooden Propellers: Wood
propellers are almost a thing of the past,
even among OT fliers. The plastic
(including fiberglass, etc.) types reign
because they can be made faster, cheaper,
and with a better finish than wood
propellers. And with computer-controlled
machinery, they can quickly be custommade
in a variety of sizes and pitches.
But it seems odd that many of the purists
among us, who refuse to use modern iron-on
plastic coverings, don’t think twice about
attaching a modern plastic propeller in front
of that classic silked and doped airframe.
Certainly there was some early use of
plastic propellers, but that was mostly in the
post World War II era, which was
dominated by CL flying. Many of those old
propellers are still around, but, for safety
reasons, they should be relegated to display
use only.
The plastic propellers weren’t reinforced,
as the modern plastics are, nor were they
designed for today’s engines’ high speeds.
Even back then, those blades often separated
without being provoked.
Many believe that today’s plastic
propellers perform better than the wood
variety, but most of the difference, if any, is
only the result of the smoother finish on the
plastics. Many wood propellers seem crude
by comparison.
However, with careful propeller selection
and some refinishing, I’ve used wood
propellers that offer similar and sometimes
better performance than the plastic kind. I
have a technique to refinish a wood
propeller for smoothness.
Scrape away the factory finish using a single-edge razorblade held vertical to the
propeller’s surface. Observe the safety
warnings and don’t carve away strength or
alter the basic shape. Finish smoothing the
wood with progressively finer sanding.
Equip yourself with a plastic baggie or a
piece of iron-on film-cover backing. Run a
thin line of cyanoacrylate (thin superglue)
down one of the four blade surfaces, and then
immediately smear and smooth the adhesive
with a finger that is protected by the plastic.
Let it cure and repeat this for the other three
surfaces.
Sand with progressively finer grades of
paper again, even down to 1,500 grit, and you
can end up with a propeller that’s as smooth
as a baby’s cheek. You’ll be surprised by how
nicely the cyanoacrylate coating sands down,
and best of all there’s no long waiting period
for paint to dry. Just don’t breathe that
cyanoacrylate sanding dust.
Part of the secret is initial selection of a
proper low-pitch (4-6 inch) propeller for the
job. Any of the currently made wood
propellers can be used, but I watch for the old
Rev-Up brand at trade shows, swap shops,
etc. They are a favorite for high performance,
but unfortunately they are no longer produced.
Physics and field observations prove the
relative greater safety of wood propellers.
They generally weigh roughly half of what
the similar-size plastic versions weigh. And
when the worst happens, the wood propellers
usually shear off with minimum damage to
flesh and bones, rather than keep coming at
you, intact and with lots of momentum.
I’ll confess that I do use some plastic
propellers, but it’s usually when I haven’t
located a suitable-size wooden blade or have
gotten a bit lazy about spending the hour or so
needed to produce a finely finished wood
propeller.
Book Review: Dave Gierke has a new book
titled, Power: Beyond the Basics: Two-Stroke
Glow Engines Vol. 2. Why, you might ask,
would OT fliers be interested in a book about
modern two-stroke engines?
Because most of us OT aficionados not
only build our own airplanes, but we’re
among those who are most likely to maintain,
tune, and repair our own engines. We’re also
more apt to mix and understand our own
fuels: a subject that Dave’s book covers
thoroughly.
But most of all, the only thing modern
about two-stroke engines is the result of
progressive little improvements that have
been made through the years. And those
improvements are much of what the book
covers.
Dave Gierke is a youngish old-timer
himself. He has a long history of successful
competition in several areas of modeling, an
excellent grounding in the sciences, and is
involved in some modern high-tech projects
involving full-scale aircraft, weaponry, etc.
Many of us old CL fliers remember him
mainly as a champion in that arena.
The book’s text and photographs mix
modern engines with many of the oldies. An
abundance of well-placed photos, charts, and
illustrations add greatly to readability. The
historical development notes are often keys to
understanding modern engines. That history
alone makes interesting reading, even if you
aren’t a nuts-and-bolts type of modeler.
As the title suggests, this book takes us
beyond basic two-stroke operation and into
combustion processes, carburetion details,
fuel-delivery systems, etc. The most
interesting areas to me were the several
chapters on fuel and lubrication components
and how they work together.
I was mostly impressed by the amazing
amount of detail that was obviously
assembled during a period of several years.
Priced at approximately $25, this book is both
a good read and an excellent reference
manual.
I also have Volume 1 of Dave’s book,
which is still in print and is a worthwhile
primer on two-strokes.
The Tomboy was a nice, little 36-inch model
that was first featured in the November 1950
issue of the English Aeromodeller magazine.
Each year one model (or more) is selected as
a special-event design for the SAM [Society
of Antique Modelers] Champs. For some
reason, those chosen are often less attractive
(some say a tad ugly) airplanes that might not
otherwise be seen. But not so for this year’s
Champs at the AMA flying site in Muncie,
Indiana.
The cute Tomboy will be flown in a FF
special event. Most of those built in England
were powered by small diesels, so this year’s
event will require a little engine: either a Cox
reed .049 or a 1cc or smaller diesel.
The special rules are posted on the SAM
Web site. Of course, you will need wheels—
not the floats shown on the larger Tomboy in
the photograph.
Note About Photos: Both the MA editors
and I prefer showing good-quality photos
that haven’t been published elsewhere. But
many of today’s nicer pictures are
immediately posted on the Internet.
Once that happens, they become sort of
public domain and instantly become world
travelers. So some of you may have seen a
couple of this month’s photos before, but
they fit the text and are of nice quality.
Please consider the following for future
submissions to this column. We need names
of the model, photographer, and builder, plus
the location, event, and any other pertinent
information. Good, clear, uncluttered photos
will be most likely to share the limited
space.
Please assure us that the pictures are
being sent exclusively for MA. And it will
save some steps if you mail them directly to
my home address. Thanks! MA
Sources:
Dave Gierke’s books, volumes 1 and 2
(Volume 1—2-Stroke Glow Engines for R/C
Aircraft—is also available from AMA Supply
and Service [item 3071].):
RCStore.com
(201) 840-4827
https://secure.rcstore.com
Bob Angel
1001 Patterson Rd.
Santa Maria CA 93455
Tomboy rules, plans, kits (Plans are also
available from the AMA Plans Service.):
The Society of Antique Modelers
www.antiquemodeler.org
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/08
Page Numbers: 159,161
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/08
Page Numbers: 159,161
OLD-TIME (OT) FF and RC fliers often
spend time sharing airspace with various
soaring birds. Hawks, vultures, eagles,
seagulls, ravens, etc. also enjoy the thermals
and often point them out for us. One thing
the birds have in common is that their
behavior improves as they get to know us
and what nice people modelers are.
The vultures (aka turkey buzzards) are
the most numerous in my area. As
scavengers, they have no talons and are
generally shyer than the other birds. They
usually steer away from a soaring model.
However, after you’ve flown in an area and
gotten acquainted, they’ll often let your
model join their thermal or even come over
and join it. It’s a neat experience.
The hawks are often more aggressive
and will sometimes make a bluffing pass or
even attack a model. But they also seem to
learn tolerance after they realize that you’re
not there to share their food supply. Then
they’ll either ignore you or occasionally
share a thermal.
Awhile back at our local field, Jim
Bierbauer was flying a 1/2A model when I
heard a “whump” at altitude, followed by an
“Oh no!” from him. Looking up, I saw Jim’s
crippled airplane spiraling down and an
eagle leaving the scene of the mugging.
The bird headed west, probably on its
way home to Vandenberg Air Force Base
(on the central coast of California), where
several eagles reside. It was a passing
stranger in the neighborhood. We couldn’t
figure out if it thought the model was prey
or was simply practicing when it hit the
airplane amidships with both talons, right
behind the wing and forward of the
stabilizer.
In Praise of Wooden Propellers: Wood
propellers are almost a thing of the past,
even among OT fliers. The plastic
(including fiberglass, etc.) types reign
because they can be made faster, cheaper,
and with a better finish than wood
propellers. And with computer-controlled
machinery, they can quickly be custommade
in a variety of sizes and pitches.
But it seems odd that many of the purists
among us, who refuse to use modern iron-on
plastic coverings, don’t think twice about
attaching a modern plastic propeller in front
of that classic silked and doped airframe.
Certainly there was some early use of
plastic propellers, but that was mostly in the
post World War II era, which was
dominated by CL flying. Many of those old
propellers are still around, but, for safety
reasons, they should be relegated to display
use only.
The plastic propellers weren’t reinforced,
as the modern plastics are, nor were they
designed for today’s engines’ high speeds.
Even back then, those blades often separated
without being provoked.
Many believe that today’s plastic
propellers perform better than the wood
variety, but most of the difference, if any, is
only the result of the smoother finish on the
plastics. Many wood propellers seem crude
by comparison.
However, with careful propeller selection
and some refinishing, I’ve used wood
propellers that offer similar and sometimes
better performance than the plastic kind. I
have a technique to refinish a wood
propeller for smoothness.
Scrape away the factory finish using a single-edge razorblade held vertical to the
propeller’s surface. Observe the safety
warnings and don’t carve away strength or
alter the basic shape. Finish smoothing the
wood with progressively finer sanding.
Equip yourself with a plastic baggie or a
piece of iron-on film-cover backing. Run a
thin line of cyanoacrylate (thin superglue)
down one of the four blade surfaces, and then
immediately smear and smooth the adhesive
with a finger that is protected by the plastic.
Let it cure and repeat this for the other three
surfaces.
Sand with progressively finer grades of
paper again, even down to 1,500 grit, and you
can end up with a propeller that’s as smooth
as a baby’s cheek. You’ll be surprised by how
nicely the cyanoacrylate coating sands down,
and best of all there’s no long waiting period
for paint to dry. Just don’t breathe that
cyanoacrylate sanding dust.
Part of the secret is initial selection of a
proper low-pitch (4-6 inch) propeller for the
job. Any of the currently made wood
propellers can be used, but I watch for the old
Rev-Up brand at trade shows, swap shops,
etc. They are a favorite for high performance,
but unfortunately they are no longer produced.
Physics and field observations prove the
relative greater safety of wood propellers.
They generally weigh roughly half of what
the similar-size plastic versions weigh. And
when the worst happens, the wood propellers
usually shear off with minimum damage to
flesh and bones, rather than keep coming at
you, intact and with lots of momentum.
I’ll confess that I do use some plastic
propellers, but it’s usually when I haven’t
located a suitable-size wooden blade or have
gotten a bit lazy about spending the hour or so
needed to produce a finely finished wood
propeller.
Book Review: Dave Gierke has a new book
titled, Power: Beyond the Basics: Two-Stroke
Glow Engines Vol. 2. Why, you might ask,
would OT fliers be interested in a book about
modern two-stroke engines?
Because most of us OT aficionados not
only build our own airplanes, but we’re
among those who are most likely to maintain,
tune, and repair our own engines. We’re also
more apt to mix and understand our own
fuels: a subject that Dave’s book covers
thoroughly.
But most of all, the only thing modern
about two-stroke engines is the result of
progressive little improvements that have
been made through the years. And those
improvements are much of what the book
covers.
Dave Gierke is a youngish old-timer
himself. He has a long history of successful
competition in several areas of modeling, an
excellent grounding in the sciences, and is
involved in some modern high-tech projects
involving full-scale aircraft, weaponry, etc.
Many of us old CL fliers remember him
mainly as a champion in that arena.
The book’s text and photographs mix
modern engines with many of the oldies. An
abundance of well-placed photos, charts, and
illustrations add greatly to readability. The
historical development notes are often keys to
understanding modern engines. That history
alone makes interesting reading, even if you
aren’t a nuts-and-bolts type of modeler.
As the title suggests, this book takes us
beyond basic two-stroke operation and into
combustion processes, carburetion details,
fuel-delivery systems, etc. The most
interesting areas to me were the several
chapters on fuel and lubrication components
and how they work together.
I was mostly impressed by the amazing
amount of detail that was obviously
assembled during a period of several years.
Priced at approximately $25, this book is both
a good read and an excellent reference
manual.
I also have Volume 1 of Dave’s book,
which is still in print and is a worthwhile
primer on two-strokes.
The Tomboy was a nice, little 36-inch model
that was first featured in the November 1950
issue of the English Aeromodeller magazine.
Each year one model (or more) is selected as
a special-event design for the SAM [Society
of Antique Modelers] Champs. For some
reason, those chosen are often less attractive
(some say a tad ugly) airplanes that might not
otherwise be seen. But not so for this year’s
Champs at the AMA flying site in Muncie,
Indiana.
The cute Tomboy will be flown in a FF
special event. Most of those built in England
were powered by small diesels, so this year’s
event will require a little engine: either a Cox
reed .049 or a 1cc or smaller diesel.
The special rules are posted on the SAM
Web site. Of course, you will need wheels—
not the floats shown on the larger Tomboy in
the photograph.
Note About Photos: Both the MA editors
and I prefer showing good-quality photos
that haven’t been published elsewhere. But
many of today’s nicer pictures are
immediately posted on the Internet.
Once that happens, they become sort of
public domain and instantly become world
travelers. So some of you may have seen a
couple of this month’s photos before, but
they fit the text and are of nice quality.
Please consider the following for future
submissions to this column. We need names
of the model, photographer, and builder, plus
the location, event, and any other pertinent
information. Good, clear, uncluttered photos
will be most likely to share the limited
space.
Please assure us that the pictures are
being sent exclusively for MA. And it will
save some steps if you mail them directly to
my home address. Thanks! MA
Sources:
Dave Gierke’s books, volumes 1 and 2
(Volume 1—2-Stroke Glow Engines for R/C
Aircraft—is also available from AMA Supply
and Service [item 3071].):
RCStore.com
(201) 840-4827
https://secure.rcstore.com
Bob Angel
1001 Patterson Rd.
Santa Maria CA 93455
Tomboy rules, plans, kits (Plans are also
available from the AMA Plans Service.):
The Society of Antique Modelers
www.antiquemodeler.org
