Patriot - 2004/06

DID YOU EVER have a great piece of balsa wood that you just
couldn’t bring yourself to use, because once you used it, it would be
gone? How’s that for warped logic?
I have such a piece of balsa. It’s a light block, approximately 4
inches square and roughly 40 inches long. I’ve had it since the late
1960s, and I have carried it with me from location to location as I’ve
moved a few times through the years. I was away from modeling from
1973 through 1987, and I still kept lugging that piece of balsa around
with me.
However, this article is not about an old block of balsa. It is about a
Stunt-model design that I flew from 1969 through 1971: the Patriot. I
mention the balsa story only because of the parallel I can draw in
deciding when to recreate the Patriot design.
Since getting back into flying Stunt in 1988, I planned to re-create
the Patriot someday, but I figured that once I had built it, I had built it.
I would no longer have the project to look forward to. And what if it
didn’t fly as well as I remembered the original two models of this
design flying? I felt that I would be disappointed. Boy, was I wrong!
I began remaking the Patriot in the fall of 2001 and finished it in
time to take it to the March 2002 Vintage Stunt Championships (VSC)
in Tucson, Arizona—unflown, I might add. I had more fun that week
than I had had in a long time. The engine (a Randy Smith AeroTiger
.36) ran great, and the airplane flew wonderfully right off the board
with no adjustments. That’s rare.
The airplane drew quite a bit of attention, and I received many
positive comments from the other contestants. I was wrong not to have
built this Classic design sooner, and I regret waiting as long as I did.
You know what? I’m going to use that light balsa block the next
chance I get—perhaps on another Patriot.
The nose’s sleek, jetlike looks are more than cosmetic.
Simulated air intakes add torsional rigidity to front end.
40 MODEL AVIATION
by Gerry Phelps
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:19 pm Page 40
June 2004 41
Design Origin: In the fall of 1968 I began
thinking about what I might build during the
winter for the next flying season. Having
built several Fox .35-powered I-Beam
airplanes and Noblers throughout the years—
and based on what was becoming a trend
toward slightly larger airplanes—I wanted
something a little bigger.
At that time, several of my friends were
having success with the venerable McCoy .40
in the somewhat larger designs. Although the
McCoy .40 did not hold up well if exposed to
even one extended lean run, it did appear to
offer the best Stunt-run characteristics and
power for that displacement. So a McCoy .40
it was.
Several jet-type designs showed up during
that time period, and Jim Kostecky’s were the
most inspiring to me—especially his Formula
S. With what I thought to be the Formula S’s
best appearance characteristics in mind, I
drew a set of plans. I incorporated the
forward canopy, the air-intake scoops at the
wing root, and the jet-style fin and rudder into
the design.
When I finished the first airplane built
from those plans in the spring of 1969, it was
adorned with a Thunderbird paint scheme but
did not have a name. It weighed 43 ounces
and performed quite well. However, I
regretted having made equal wing panels for
the initial design.
The model began life with a 56-inch
wingspan, but I had enough leadout material
exposed to significantly extend the inboard
wing, and I did just that. I removed the
inboard tip and added 1.5 inches to the span,
bringing it up to 57.5 inches.
Hoping that I wouldn’t be asking too
much from the McCoy .40, that modification
turned a good airplane into a great airplane. It
grooved well, turned well, and stayed out on
the lines. What else can you ask for? The
model was definitely the best thing I had built
up to that point.
I flew the airplane successfully at local
meets that year and finished third in the Open
classification at the Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania, Nats behind Al Rabe (second)
and Bob Lampione (first).
At the beginning of the 1969 flying
The winning 1970 United States F2B team (L-R): the author with the Patriot, that year’s
World Champion Bill Werwage, and Bob Gieseke.
Plenty of cooling air gets to the head of the engine through that massive scoop! The
“chip”-type muffler and hole allow engine prime in the venturi.
“Aggressive” might be the best word to describe the aesthetics of this competitive
model. The author does outstanding paintwork!
Wheel covers are attached to main
landing-gear struts with small machine
screws. Wide gear placement yields great
ground handling.
Photos courtesy the author
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:21 pm Page 41
season, I had no intention of trying out for the FAI team that would
attend the World Championships in Namur, Belgium, in 1970.
However, Bob Gieseke approached me at the 1969 Nats and
encouraged me to attend the Team Trials. He told me that based on
how I was flying that year, I had as good a chance at making the team
as anybody. Not only did I make the team, but I placed first in the
team-selection competition. That was my “shining moment” in CL
Stunt.
Once I made the team, there was never a doubt about what I was
going to build for the 1970 world competition. It would be the same
design, but with a splashy paint scheme that represented the good, old
USA. I chose the name “Patriot.” With a light-blue base coat, I added
stars and stripes to my liking.
The 1970 airplane also flew great, and its handling characteristics
were almost identical to that of the 1969 airplane. The Patriot and I
ended up in fourth place at the 1970 World Championships. Bill
Werwage finished first, Bob Gieseke finished second, and
Czechoslovakia’s Gabris nudged me out of third place by 11 points
(1,897 to 1,886). The US team finished in first place. It was a great
experience.
My 2002 model has the exact paint scheme I used on the 1970
airplane that went to Belgium. Using the original trim, name, and
AMA-number stencils I made in 1969/1970, I re-created the colorful
trim as accurately as possible. I even duplicated the cockpit detail
accurately based on plan detail and an old close-up photo of the 1969
airplane cockpit that I got from Jack Sheeks a few years ago.
When I finally flew the new airplane in Tucson, seeing it out there
You can see the bellcrank mount and landing-gear mount plates.
Check out the lightening holes! Save weight where you can!
The flaps are made from stiff 1⁄4 balsa and joined with the flap
horn. They are shown ready to be hinged to the wing.
The completed
airframe is ready
for finish. Strip of
.02-ounce carbon
mat on the TE of
the stabilizer
provides extra
strength. Do the
bottom the same
way.
42 MODEL AVIATION
Adjustable leadout guide is installed in the wingtip. Note
clearance slot in spar and lightening holes in tip plate.
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:22 pm Page 42
on the end of the lines was like coming home.
It was no secret that I was a happy camper.
Bob Hunt even dubbed me the “Happy
Patriot” while we were at the VSC.
CONSTRUCTION
If you want to end up with a light model,
you have to build light from the start. Use
only contest-grade balsa (4- to 6-pound
density). Where plywood is used, try to
lighten it significantly by drilling holes in
places where its strength is not a factor. Refer
to the holes in the wing landing-gear
platforms and the nose doublers in the fueltank
compartment on the plans. You should
also drill out the engine rails in the tankcompartment
area to eliminate weight that
isn’t really doing anything for you.
When you use cyanoacrylate glue or
epoxy, remember that you get what you put
in. These bonding agents do not lighten as
they dry, as do acetone-based glues (such as
Sig-Ment) or aliphatic-resin glues (such as
Sig-Bond, Titebond, or Elmer’s carpenter’s
glue). Choose the proper glue for the
application, and try not to use excessive
amounts.
As far as the actual construction, you
should have no trouble with this project if
you’ve built a Nobler or any similarly
constructed model.
Wing: The wing is a conventional D-tube
design with a 1⁄16-inch planked LE and a 3⁄32-
inch planked TE. The D-tube spar is 3⁄32 balsa
notched for the ribs like a Nobler (first rib top
half, second rib bottom half, etc.). The LE is a
1⁄4-inch spar. For strength, the LE is
subplanked with 1⁄16 balsa through rib number
3. The center-section itself is planked with 3⁄32
balsa.
The TE is finished with a 1⁄8 balsa cap.
Before capping the LE with 1⁄8 or 3⁄32 balsa,
plane the planked LE flat, removing stock
until most of the glue joint between the
planking and the LE spar is removed. Then
cement the cap in place.
When giving the LE its final shape, make
sure you achieve a radius no less than 1⁄4 inch.
I like to make a small sanding block from
balsa with the desired radius, and this also
June 2004 43
Rib-Making Procedure
Left: For the first cut, position the master template in line with centerline on the rib
material. Make sure the TE of the template is positioned at one “rib length” mark. Cut
all the way around the TE of the template, but only as far forward as the vertical line on
the template. Right: Result of the first cut.
Left: For the second cut, slide the rib template back so that the inside of the LE notch
lines up with the other “rib length” mark. Using the point of a compass (or similar
device) positioned in the notch, pivot the rear of the template downward until the top of
the template is tangent with the first cut. Cut from the LE back to, and connecting with,
the first cut. Right: Result of the second cut.
Left: For the third cut, pivot the template upward until the bottom of the template is
tangent with the first cut. Cut from the LE back to, and connecting with, the first cut.
Right: Result of the third cut.
Left: For the last cut, pivot the template back up so that the centerlines match.
Complete the two small cuts at the LE notch. At this point, the basic rib shape cut is
complete. Right: Result of the last cut.
Type: CL Classic Stunt
Wingspan: 57.5 inches
Engine: AeroTiger .36
Flying weight: 46 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Tissue and dope
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 43
Full-Size Plans Available—see page 199
44 MODEL AVIATION
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 44
ensures that the whole LE is consistent in
shape.
The procedure for making this model’s
ribs is a bit different from what you may be
used to, so I have presented it in a sidebar.
The photos depict laying out a representative
rib on a piece of white card stock. This was
done to allow good definition for the
procedure. In actual practice, the ribs would
be laid out on the actual balsa rib stock.
The wingtips start as a piece of 1⁄16 balsa
(see plans for location of holes to lighten)
with edges laminated with scrap 1⁄4 balsa, top
and bottom. Once cemented in place, you can
notch the laminations to accept 1⁄16-inch
planking at the LE and 3⁄32 inch at the TE.
Leave the wing TE planking long during wing
construction, and then simply pinch it
together and cement it in notches in the
wingtip edge laminations.
Before I install the wingtip ribs, I like to
contour and taper the rest of the tip
laminations so that they blend in with the end
wing rib. To accomplish this, I use a large
sanding block and a straightedge to check for
surface continuity. I also try to attain an
approximately 1⁄4-inch rounded edge along
most of the tip’s perimeter. Then I can install
and block-sand the tip ribs to match the rest of
the tip surface contour. Although the 2002
model has a tip weight box and an adjustable
leadout guide, these items are optional.
The original models had 3-inch bellcranks,
but I chose a Brodak 4-inch nylon bellcrank
this time around. (Modern thinking, you
know.) Installation is conventional with a
plywood floor. For added strength I support
the top of the bellcrank bolt with another
section of plywood running to the first inside
panel rib and reinforced appropriately to the
spar and center-section planking.
Make the flaps from 1⁄4 balsa, and taper
them to approximately 1⁄8-inch thickness at
the TE. I make my own control horns, but
there are enough quality products on the
market from which to choose if you elect to
purchase these items. The original models
also had handmade plywood and piano-wire
hinges, as shown in the plans. I chose tissue
taffeta hinges (100% polyester) for the 2002
model to achieve a totally sealed hinge line.
Conventional nylon hinges are another option.
If you use cloth hinges, make sure they are
100% polyester. Even if you purchase
material that is labeled 100% polyester, test it
before you use it. Apply a few drops of thin
cyanoacrylate on a test piece and allow it to
dry thoroughly. Once it has dried, bend the
test area back and forth several times and tug
at it to make sure it will not fatigue and
eventually fail.
Empennage: Cut the stabilizer and elevator
from 3⁄8 balsa sheet, shape them to achieve the
cross-section foil shown, and then hollow
them as shown on the planform. Then add the
1⁄16-inch ribs.
I covered the original versions with
medium-weight silkspan, and that provided
adequate strength for the stabilizer. However,
I covered almost the entire 2002 model with
light plyspan (Sig Japanese tissue). Because
of that, I covered the stabilizer with two
layers of medium plyspan to achieve the
needed strength.
Another method of increasing this fairly
fragile stabilizer’s strength is to cement thin
unidirectional carbon tape to the inside of the
cutout area before installing the ribs. Run the
carbon out from the center approximately 5
inches before installing the ribs. On the new
model I applied a layer of thin carbon mat on
the top and bottom of the stabilizer’s TE, but
I’m sure that did not provide as much
strength as the unidirectional carbon tape
would have.
The rudder and fin are also made from 3⁄8
sheet balsa and covered with thin carbon mat
for strength. I also used carbon mat on the
flaps for rigidity and on the model’s nose for
durability.
Fuselage: The fuselage also uses fairly
conventional construction, with 1⁄8-inch sides,
1⁄16 plywood nose doublers, and adequate
bulkhead placement. However, the bulkheads
are built up.
Glue 1⁄16 balsa that is approximately 1⁄2
inch wide vertically to the inside of each
fuselage side as indicated on the planform.
Invert the fuselage sides and place them on a
flat building surface for further assembly.
Using a centerline on the building surface,
complete the tank-compartment area as the
first step in joining the halves. Cut and install
horizontal bulkhead stringers in the remainder
of the fuselage (where the 1⁄2-inch vertical
bulkheads strips are located), achieving the
appropriate width as indicated on the
planform. These horizontal stringers can be
made from 1⁄8 or 3⁄16 balsa, and they only need
to be roughly 3⁄8 inch wide.
Temporarily remove the fuselage side
sections under the wing for wing installation.
Employ top and bottom blocks to achieve
desired shapes, and then hollow them to a
wall thickness of approximately 1⁄8 inch.
Build the cowl from sheet and blocks, and
then shape and hollow it. I continue to use
one of the oldest cowl-hold-down techniques
on most of my models: a bicycle spoke and a
spoke nut. It works well and presents well.
I cut the canopy from a Sig 11-inch
bubble and soaked it in blue Rit dye to
achieve desired tint intensity.
Finish: I finished the 2002 model with
Brodak dope and was extremely satisfied
with the results. As a matter of fact, the
model won the pilots’ choice award
(Concours award) at the 2002 Vintage Stunt
Championships.
Much has been written about finishing, so
I won’t elaborate on my technique in this
article. Whatever approach you do use for the
finish, I can’t stress enough the importance of
your keeping the weight down.
If you do build this model, and you build it
light and straight, you will absolutely love the
way it flies. Have fun, and let me know what
you think of your Patriot. I think I hear my
balsa block calling me. MA
Gerry Phelps
4175 Sacramento Blvd.
Medina OH 44256
(Editor’s note: Gerry is one of those rare
CL Stunt pilots who flies his models in a
clockwise direction [when the model is in the
upright position]. Because of that, his control
system is set up with the leadouts running out
the right wing.
His plan drawing depicts this preference
and shows the right wing panel as the longer
of the two. For those of you who fly the other
way, you will need to build the left wing as the
longer wing and reverse the control system as
it is depicted.)
46 MODEL AVIATION
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 46
F u l l - S i z e P l a n s
958 Patriot ...........................................................................................................$11.25
CL Classic Stunt model by Phelps spans 57.5 inches
959 Cruiser 60 ...................................................................................................$22.50
D.B. Mathews’ RC sport model is follow-up to 40-size design
No. 917 Sir Lancelot: RC sport model by Henry for O.S. .61 spans 72 inches D
No. 918 Skyraider: CL 1/2A Profile by Sarpolus for Norvel BigMig .061 spans 29 inches B
No. 925 Bird-E-Dog: Ernie Heyworth and Ed Lokken’s RC Electric Sport Scale model C
No. 926 JoeCat: RC sport jet by Beshar for Toki .18 DF unit spans 37 inches C
No. 927 Kairos: CL Stunt model by Dixon for .46-.61 engine spans 58 inches C
No. 928 Beta Blue Chip Racer: Rubber-powered FF Scale model designed by Tom Derber B
No. 929 Dewoitine D.338: Multimotor RC Electric Scale by Mikulasko spans 781/2 inches E
No. 930 Westland Lysander: RC Scale model by Baker for .25 spans 56 inches E
No. 931 1959 Ares: Champion RC Aerobatics model by Werwage spans 501/2 inches C
No. 932 Wing400: RC Electric flying wing by Hanley for Speed 400 spans 36 inches B
No. 933 Kepler 450: CL speed-limit Combat model by Edwards for .21-.32 two-stroke A
Plan does not include full-size template shown on page 40 of the August 2002 issue.
No. 934 VariEze: FF Peanut Scale canard by Heckman spans 13 inches A
No. 935 Classic 320: 1/2A Classic Power design by Pailet for Cyclon .049 or equivalent B
No. 936 Prince: RC sport Pattern model by Robelen for O.S. .25 spans 51 inches C
No. 937 Clean Cut: RC sport aerobatic model by Sarpolus spans 90 inches E
No. 938 Diamond Gem: Compressed-air-powered FF sport model by Ken Johnson B
No. 939 Project Extra: RC Scale Aerobatics model by Mike Hurley spans 106 inches **$49.50
No. 940 Cessna No.1: RC Electric Sport Scale by Papic spans 321/2 inches B
No. 941 Mooney and Beechcraft Bonanza CL 1/2A profile sport models by Rick Sarpolus B
No. 942 Zenith CH 801: FF Rubber Scale model by Fineman spans 20 inches A
No. 943 Wildman 60: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt model by Carter spans 591/2 inches C
No. 944 Shoestring: Semiscale RC sport Pattern design by deBolt spans 60 inches D
No. 945 F-86 Sabre: Semiscale CL Stunt model by Hutchinson spans 56 inches E
No. 946 Electric Zephyr: Electric RC Pylon/sport model by Smith spans 40 inches B
No. 947 Chester Special: O.S. .40-powered CL Scale model by Beatty spans 43 inches **$27.00
No. 948 Moffett Redux: High-performance Rubber-powered FF design by Langenberg C
No. 949 Scratch-One: Electric RC sailplane/basic trainer by Aberle spans 45 inches B
No. 950 BareCat 650-C: CL sport Stunt model by Netzeband spans 541/4 inches E
No. 951 Douglas O-46A: RC Sport Scale model by Baker spans 54 inches E
No. 952 Lavochkin LaGG-3: Felton’s CL Sport Scale design made from cardboard E
No. 953 USA-1: Multiple-award-winning CL Stunt model by Werwage spans 611/2 inches C
No. 954 B-2 Spirit Stealth Bomber: Electric FF model by Ken Johnson spans 42 inches B
No. 955 Electric Flash: Electric-powered RC park flyer by Stewart spans 44 inches C
No. 956 Grumman F-4F Wildcat: Jim Ryan’s RC Electric fighter spans 30.6 inches C
No. 957 Right Angle: RC sport aerobatic model by Sarpolus spans 62 inches D
Full-size plan list available. A complete listing of all plans previously published in this
magazine through no. 959 may be obtained free of charge by writing (enclose 78¢
stamped, pre-addressed #10 business-size letter envelope) Model Aviation, 5161 E.
Memorial Dr., Muncie IN 47302
**Special Price

DID YOU EVER have a great piece of balsa wood that you just
couldn’t bring yourself to use, because once you used it, it would be
gone? How’s that for warped logic?
I have such a piece of balsa. It’s a light block, approximately 4
inches square and roughly 40 inches long. I’ve had it since the late
1960s, and I have carried it with me from location to location as I’ve
moved a few times through the years. I was away from modeling from
1973 through 1987, and I still kept lugging that piece of balsa around
with me.
However, this article is not about an old block of balsa. It is about a
Stunt-model design that I flew from 1969 through 1971: the Patriot. I
mention the balsa story only because of the parallel I can draw in
deciding when to recreate the Patriot design.
Since getting back into flying Stunt in 1988, I planned to re-create
the Patriot someday, but I figured that once I had built it, I had built it.
I would no longer have the project to look forward to. And what if it
didn’t fly as well as I remembered the original two models of this
design flying? I felt that I would be disappointed. Boy, was I wrong!
I began remaking the Patriot in the fall of 2001 and finished it in
time to take it to the March 2002 Vintage Stunt Championships (VSC)
in Tucson, Arizona—unflown, I might add. I had more fun that week
than I had had in a long time. The engine (a Randy Smith AeroTiger
.36) ran great, and the airplane flew wonderfully right off the board
with no adjustments. That’s rare.
The airplane drew quite a bit of attention, and I received many
positive comments from the other contestants. I was wrong not to have
built this Classic design sooner, and I regret waiting as long as I did.
You know what? I’m going to use that light balsa block the next
chance I get—perhaps on another Patriot.
The nose’s sleek, jetlike looks are more than cosmetic.
Simulated air intakes add torsional rigidity to front end.
40 MODEL AVIATION
by Gerry Phelps
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:19 pm Page 40
June 2004 41
Design Origin: In the fall of 1968 I began
thinking about what I might build during the
winter for the next flying season. Having
built several Fox .35-powered I-Beam
airplanes and Noblers throughout the years—
and based on what was becoming a trend
toward slightly larger airplanes—I wanted
something a little bigger.
At that time, several of my friends were
having success with the venerable McCoy .40
in the somewhat larger designs. Although the
McCoy .40 did not hold up well if exposed to
even one extended lean run, it did appear to
offer the best Stunt-run characteristics and
power for that displacement. So a McCoy .40
it was.
Several jet-type designs showed up during
that time period, and Jim Kostecky’s were the
most inspiring to me—especially his Formula
S. With what I thought to be the Formula S’s
best appearance characteristics in mind, I
drew a set of plans. I incorporated the
forward canopy, the air-intake scoops at the
wing root, and the jet-style fin and rudder into
the design.
When I finished the first airplane built
from those plans in the spring of 1969, it was
adorned with a Thunderbird paint scheme but
did not have a name. It weighed 43 ounces
and performed quite well. However, I
regretted having made equal wing panels for
the initial design.
The model began life with a 56-inch
wingspan, but I had enough leadout material
exposed to significantly extend the inboard
wing, and I did just that. I removed the
inboard tip and added 1.5 inches to the span,
bringing it up to 57.5 inches.
Hoping that I wouldn’t be asking too
much from the McCoy .40, that modification
turned a good airplane into a great airplane. It
grooved well, turned well, and stayed out on
the lines. What else can you ask for? The
model was definitely the best thing I had built
up to that point.
I flew the airplane successfully at local
meets that year and finished third in the Open
classification at the Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania, Nats behind Al Rabe (second)
and Bob Lampione (first).
At the beginning of the 1969 flying
The winning 1970 United States F2B team (L-R): the author with the Patriot, that year’s
World Champion Bill Werwage, and Bob Gieseke.
Plenty of cooling air gets to the head of the engine through that massive scoop! The
“chip”-type muffler and hole allow engine prime in the venturi.
“Aggressive” might be the best word to describe the aesthetics of this competitive
model. The author does outstanding paintwork!
Wheel covers are attached to main
landing-gear struts with small machine
screws. Wide gear placement yields great
ground handling.
Photos courtesy the author
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:21 pm Page 41
season, I had no intention of trying out for the FAI team that would
attend the World Championships in Namur, Belgium, in 1970.
However, Bob Gieseke approached me at the 1969 Nats and
encouraged me to attend the Team Trials. He told me that based on
how I was flying that year, I had as good a chance at making the team
as anybody. Not only did I make the team, but I placed first in the
team-selection competition. That was my “shining moment” in CL
Stunt.
Once I made the team, there was never a doubt about what I was
going to build for the 1970 world competition. It would be the same
design, but with a splashy paint scheme that represented the good, old
USA. I chose the name “Patriot.” With a light-blue base coat, I added
stars and stripes to my liking.
The 1970 airplane also flew great, and its handling characteristics
were almost identical to that of the 1969 airplane. The Patriot and I
ended up in fourth place at the 1970 World Championships. Bill
Werwage finished first, Bob Gieseke finished second, and
Czechoslovakia’s Gabris nudged me out of third place by 11 points
(1,897 to 1,886). The US team finished in first place. It was a great
experience.
My 2002 model has the exact paint scheme I used on the 1970
airplane that went to Belgium. Using the original trim, name, and
AMA-number stencils I made in 1969/1970, I re-created the colorful
trim as accurately as possible. I even duplicated the cockpit detail
accurately based on plan detail and an old close-up photo of the 1969
airplane cockpit that I got from Jack Sheeks a few years ago.
When I finally flew the new airplane in Tucson, seeing it out there
You can see the bellcrank mount and landing-gear mount plates.
Check out the lightening holes! Save weight where you can!
The flaps are made from stiff 1⁄4 balsa and joined with the flap
horn. They are shown ready to be hinged to the wing.
The completed
airframe is ready
for finish. Strip of
.02-ounce carbon
mat on the TE of
the stabilizer
provides extra
strength. Do the
bottom the same
way.
42 MODEL AVIATION
Adjustable leadout guide is installed in the wingtip. Note
clearance slot in spar and lightening holes in tip plate.
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:22 pm Page 42
on the end of the lines was like coming home.
It was no secret that I was a happy camper.
Bob Hunt even dubbed me the “Happy
Patriot” while we were at the VSC.
CONSTRUCTION
If you want to end up with a light model,
you have to build light from the start. Use
only contest-grade balsa (4- to 6-pound
density). Where plywood is used, try to
lighten it significantly by drilling holes in
places where its strength is not a factor. Refer
to the holes in the wing landing-gear
platforms and the nose doublers in the fueltank
compartment on the plans. You should
also drill out the engine rails in the tankcompartment
area to eliminate weight that
isn’t really doing anything for you.
When you use cyanoacrylate glue or
epoxy, remember that you get what you put
in. These bonding agents do not lighten as
they dry, as do acetone-based glues (such as
Sig-Ment) or aliphatic-resin glues (such as
Sig-Bond, Titebond, or Elmer’s carpenter’s
glue). Choose the proper glue for the
application, and try not to use excessive
amounts.
As far as the actual construction, you
should have no trouble with this project if
you’ve built a Nobler or any similarly
constructed model.
Wing: The wing is a conventional D-tube
design with a 1⁄16-inch planked LE and a 3⁄32-
inch planked TE. The D-tube spar is 3⁄32 balsa
notched for the ribs like a Nobler (first rib top
half, second rib bottom half, etc.). The LE is a
1⁄4-inch spar. For strength, the LE is
subplanked with 1⁄16 balsa through rib number
3. The center-section itself is planked with 3⁄32
balsa.
The TE is finished with a 1⁄8 balsa cap.
Before capping the LE with 1⁄8 or 3⁄32 balsa,
plane the planked LE flat, removing stock
until most of the glue joint between the
planking and the LE spar is removed. Then
cement the cap in place.
When giving the LE its final shape, make
sure you achieve a radius no less than 1⁄4 inch.
I like to make a small sanding block from
balsa with the desired radius, and this also
June 2004 43
Rib-Making Procedure
Left: For the first cut, position the master template in line with centerline on the rib
material. Make sure the TE of the template is positioned at one “rib length” mark. Cut
all the way around the TE of the template, but only as far forward as the vertical line on
the template. Right: Result of the first cut.
Left: For the second cut, slide the rib template back so that the inside of the LE notch
lines up with the other “rib length” mark. Using the point of a compass (or similar
device) positioned in the notch, pivot the rear of the template downward until the top of
the template is tangent with the first cut. Cut from the LE back to, and connecting with,
the first cut. Right: Result of the second cut.
Left: For the third cut, pivot the template upward until the bottom of the template is
tangent with the first cut. Cut from the LE back to, and connecting with, the first cut.
Right: Result of the third cut.
Left: For the last cut, pivot the template back up so that the centerlines match.
Complete the two small cuts at the LE notch. At this point, the basic rib shape cut is
complete. Right: Result of the last cut.
Type: CL Classic Stunt
Wingspan: 57.5 inches
Engine: AeroTiger .36
Flying weight: 46 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Tissue and dope
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 43
Full-Size Plans Available—see page 199
44 MODEL AVIATION
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 44
ensures that the whole LE is consistent in
shape.
The procedure for making this model’s
ribs is a bit different from what you may be
used to, so I have presented it in a sidebar.
The photos depict laying out a representative
rib on a piece of white card stock. This was
done to allow good definition for the
procedure. In actual practice, the ribs would
be laid out on the actual balsa rib stock.
The wingtips start as a piece of 1⁄16 balsa
(see plans for location of holes to lighten)
with edges laminated with scrap 1⁄4 balsa, top
and bottom. Once cemented in place, you can
notch the laminations to accept 1⁄16-inch
planking at the LE and 3⁄32 inch at the TE.
Leave the wing TE planking long during wing
construction, and then simply pinch it
together and cement it in notches in the
wingtip edge laminations.
Before I install the wingtip ribs, I like to
contour and taper the rest of the tip
laminations so that they blend in with the end
wing rib. To accomplish this, I use a large
sanding block and a straightedge to check for
surface continuity. I also try to attain an
approximately 1⁄4-inch rounded edge along
most of the tip’s perimeter. Then I can install
and block-sand the tip ribs to match the rest of
the tip surface contour. Although the 2002
model has a tip weight box and an adjustable
leadout guide, these items are optional.
The original models had 3-inch bellcranks,
but I chose a Brodak 4-inch nylon bellcrank
this time around. (Modern thinking, you
know.) Installation is conventional with a
plywood floor. For added strength I support
the top of the bellcrank bolt with another
section of plywood running to the first inside
panel rib and reinforced appropriately to the
spar and center-section planking.
Make the flaps from 1⁄4 balsa, and taper
them to approximately 1⁄8-inch thickness at
the TE. I make my own control horns, but
there are enough quality products on the
market from which to choose if you elect to
purchase these items. The original models
also had handmade plywood and piano-wire
hinges, as shown in the plans. I chose tissue
taffeta hinges (100% polyester) for the 2002
model to achieve a totally sealed hinge line.
Conventional nylon hinges are another option.
If you use cloth hinges, make sure they are
100% polyester. Even if you purchase
material that is labeled 100% polyester, test it
before you use it. Apply a few drops of thin
cyanoacrylate on a test piece and allow it to
dry thoroughly. Once it has dried, bend the
test area back and forth several times and tug
at it to make sure it will not fatigue and
eventually fail.
Empennage: Cut the stabilizer and elevator
from 3⁄8 balsa sheet, shape them to achieve the
cross-section foil shown, and then hollow
them as shown on the planform. Then add the
1⁄16-inch ribs.
I covered the original versions with
medium-weight silkspan, and that provided
adequate strength for the stabilizer. However,
I covered almost the entire 2002 model with
light plyspan (Sig Japanese tissue). Because
of that, I covered the stabilizer with two
layers of medium plyspan to achieve the
needed strength.
Another method of increasing this fairly
fragile stabilizer’s strength is to cement thin
unidirectional carbon tape to the inside of the
cutout area before installing the ribs. Run the
carbon out from the center approximately 5
inches before installing the ribs. On the new
model I applied a layer of thin carbon mat on
the top and bottom of the stabilizer’s TE, but
I’m sure that did not provide as much
strength as the unidirectional carbon tape
would have.
The rudder and fin are also made from 3⁄8
sheet balsa and covered with thin carbon mat
for strength. I also used carbon mat on the
flaps for rigidity and on the model’s nose for
durability.
Fuselage: The fuselage also uses fairly
conventional construction, with 1⁄8-inch sides,
1⁄16 plywood nose doublers, and adequate
bulkhead placement. However, the bulkheads
are built up.
Glue 1⁄16 balsa that is approximately 1⁄2
inch wide vertically to the inside of each
fuselage side as indicated on the planform.
Invert the fuselage sides and place them on a
flat building surface for further assembly.
Using a centerline on the building surface,
complete the tank-compartment area as the
first step in joining the halves. Cut and install
horizontal bulkhead stringers in the remainder
of the fuselage (where the 1⁄2-inch vertical
bulkheads strips are located), achieving the
appropriate width as indicated on the
planform. These horizontal stringers can be
made from 1⁄8 or 3⁄16 balsa, and they only need
to be roughly 3⁄8 inch wide.
Temporarily remove the fuselage side
sections under the wing for wing installation.
Employ top and bottom blocks to achieve
desired shapes, and then hollow them to a
wall thickness of approximately 1⁄8 inch.
Build the cowl from sheet and blocks, and
then shape and hollow it. I continue to use
one of the oldest cowl-hold-down techniques
on most of my models: a bicycle spoke and a
spoke nut. It works well and presents well.
I cut the canopy from a Sig 11-inch
bubble and soaked it in blue Rit dye to
achieve desired tint intensity.
Finish: I finished the 2002 model with
Brodak dope and was extremely satisfied
with the results. As a matter of fact, the
model won the pilots’ choice award
(Concours award) at the 2002 Vintage Stunt
Championships.
Much has been written about finishing, so
I won’t elaborate on my technique in this
article. Whatever approach you do use for the
finish, I can’t stress enough the importance of
your keeping the weight down.
If you do build this model, and you build it
light and straight, you will absolutely love the
way it flies. Have fun, and let me know what
you think of your Patriot. I think I hear my
balsa block calling me. MA
Gerry Phelps
4175 Sacramento Blvd.
Medina OH 44256
(Editor’s note: Gerry is one of those rare
CL Stunt pilots who flies his models in a
clockwise direction [when the model is in the
upright position]. Because of that, his control
system is set up with the leadouts running out
the right wing.
His plan drawing depicts this preference
and shows the right wing panel as the longer
of the two. For those of you who fly the other
way, you will need to build the left wing as the
longer wing and reverse the control system as
it is depicted.)
46 MODEL AVIATION
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 46
F u l l - S i z e P l a n s
958 Patriot ...........................................................................................................$11.25
CL Classic Stunt model by Phelps spans 57.5 inches
959 Cruiser 60 ...................................................................................................$22.50
D.B. Mathews’ RC sport model is follow-up to 40-size design
No. 917 Sir Lancelot: RC sport model by Henry for O.S. .61 spans 72 inches D
No. 918 Skyraider: CL 1/2A Profile by Sarpolus for Norvel BigMig .061 spans 29 inches B
No. 925 Bird-E-Dog: Ernie Heyworth and Ed Lokken’s RC Electric Sport Scale model C
No. 926 JoeCat: RC sport jet by Beshar for Toki .18 DF unit spans 37 inches C
No. 927 Kairos: CL Stunt model by Dixon for .46-.61 engine spans 58 inches C
No. 928 Beta Blue Chip Racer: Rubber-powered FF Scale model designed by Tom Derber B
No. 929 Dewoitine D.338: Multimotor RC Electric Scale by Mikulasko spans 781/2 inches E
No. 930 Westland Lysander: RC Scale model by Baker for .25 spans 56 inches E
No. 931 1959 Ares: Champion RC Aerobatics model by Werwage spans 501/2 inches C
No. 932 Wing400: RC Electric flying wing by Hanley for Speed 400 spans 36 inches B
No. 933 Kepler 450: CL speed-limit Combat model by Edwards for .21-.32 two-stroke A
Plan does not include full-size template shown on page 40 of the August 2002 issue.
No. 934 VariEze: FF Peanut Scale canard by Heckman spans 13 inches A
No. 935 Classic 320: 1/2A Classic Power design by Pailet for Cyclon .049 or equivalent B
No. 936 Prince: RC sport Pattern model by Robelen for O.S. .25 spans 51 inches C
No. 937 Clean Cut: RC sport aerobatic model by Sarpolus spans 90 inches E
No. 938 Diamond Gem: Compressed-air-powered FF sport model by Ken Johnson B
No. 939 Project Extra: RC Scale Aerobatics model by Mike Hurley spans 106 inches **$49.50
No. 940 Cessna No.1: RC Electric Sport Scale by Papic spans 321/2 inches B
No. 941 Mooney and Beechcraft Bonanza CL 1/2A profile sport models by Rick Sarpolus B
No. 942 Zenith CH 801: FF Rubber Scale model by Fineman spans 20 inches A
No. 943 Wildman 60: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt model by Carter spans 591/2 inches C
No. 944 Shoestring: Semiscale RC sport Pattern design by deBolt spans 60 inches D
No. 945 F-86 Sabre: Semiscale CL Stunt model by Hutchinson spans 56 inches E
No. 946 Electric Zephyr: Electric RC Pylon/sport model by Smith spans 40 inches B
No. 947 Chester Special: O.S. .40-powered CL Scale model by Beatty spans 43 inches **$27.00
No. 948 Moffett Redux: High-performance Rubber-powered FF design by Langenberg C
No. 949 Scratch-One: Electric RC sailplane/basic trainer by Aberle spans 45 inches B
No. 950 BareCat 650-C: CL sport Stunt model by Netzeband spans 541/4 inches E
No. 951 Douglas O-46A: RC Sport Scale model by Baker spans 54 inches E
No. 952 Lavochkin LaGG-3: Felton’s CL Sport Scale design made from cardboard E
No. 953 USA-1: Multiple-award-winning CL Stunt model by Werwage spans 611/2 inches C
No. 954 B-2 Spirit Stealth Bomber: Electric FF model by Ken Johnson spans 42 inches B
No. 955 Electric Flash: Electric-powered RC park flyer by Stewart spans 44 inches C
No. 956 Grumman F-4F Wildcat: Jim Ryan’s RC Electric fighter spans 30.6 inches C
No. 957 Right Angle: RC sport aerobatic model by Sarpolus spans 62 inches D
Full-size plan list available. A complete listing of all plans previously published in this
magazine through no. 959 may be obtained free of charge by writing (enclose 78¢
stamped, pre-addressed #10 business-size letter envelope) Model Aviation, 5161 E.
Memorial Dr., Muncie IN 47302
**Special Price

DID YOU EVER have a great piece of balsa wood that you just
couldn’t bring yourself to use, because once you used it, it would be
gone? How’s that for warped logic?
I have such a piece of balsa. It’s a light block, approximately 4
inches square and roughly 40 inches long. I’ve had it since the late
1960s, and I have carried it with me from location to location as I’ve
moved a few times through the years. I was away from modeling from
1973 through 1987, and I still kept lugging that piece of balsa around
with me.
However, this article is not about an old block of balsa. It is about a
Stunt-model design that I flew from 1969 through 1971: the Patriot. I
mention the balsa story only because of the parallel I can draw in
deciding when to recreate the Patriot design.
Since getting back into flying Stunt in 1988, I planned to re-create
the Patriot someday, but I figured that once I had built it, I had built it.
I would no longer have the project to look forward to. And what if it
didn’t fly as well as I remembered the original two models of this
design flying? I felt that I would be disappointed. Boy, was I wrong!
I began remaking the Patriot in the fall of 2001 and finished it in
time to take it to the March 2002 Vintage Stunt Championships (VSC)
in Tucson, Arizona—unflown, I might add. I had more fun that week
than I had had in a long time. The engine (a Randy Smith AeroTiger
.36) ran great, and the airplane flew wonderfully right off the board
with no adjustments. That’s rare.
The airplane drew quite a bit of attention, and I received many
positive comments from the other contestants. I was wrong not to have
built this Classic design sooner, and I regret waiting as long as I did.
You know what? I’m going to use that light balsa block the next
chance I get—perhaps on another Patriot.
The nose’s sleek, jetlike looks are more than cosmetic.
Simulated air intakes add torsional rigidity to front end.
40 MODEL AVIATION
by Gerry Phelps
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:19 pm Page 40
June 2004 41
Design Origin: In the fall of 1968 I began
thinking about what I might build during the
winter for the next flying season. Having
built several Fox .35-powered I-Beam
airplanes and Noblers throughout the years—
and based on what was becoming a trend
toward slightly larger airplanes—I wanted
something a little bigger.
At that time, several of my friends were
having success with the venerable McCoy .40
in the somewhat larger designs. Although the
McCoy .40 did not hold up well if exposed to
even one extended lean run, it did appear to
offer the best Stunt-run characteristics and
power for that displacement. So a McCoy .40
it was.
Several jet-type designs showed up during
that time period, and Jim Kostecky’s were the
most inspiring to me—especially his Formula
S. With what I thought to be the Formula S’s
best appearance characteristics in mind, I
drew a set of plans. I incorporated the
forward canopy, the air-intake scoops at the
wing root, and the jet-style fin and rudder into
the design.
When I finished the first airplane built
from those plans in the spring of 1969, it was
adorned with a Thunderbird paint scheme but
did not have a name. It weighed 43 ounces
and performed quite well. However, I
regretted having made equal wing panels for
the initial design.
The model began life with a 56-inch
wingspan, but I had enough leadout material
exposed to significantly extend the inboard
wing, and I did just that. I removed the
inboard tip and added 1.5 inches to the span,
bringing it up to 57.5 inches.
Hoping that I wouldn’t be asking too
much from the McCoy .40, that modification
turned a good airplane into a great airplane. It
grooved well, turned well, and stayed out on
the lines. What else can you ask for? The
model was definitely the best thing I had built
up to that point.
I flew the airplane successfully at local
meets that year and finished third in the Open
classification at the Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania, Nats behind Al Rabe (second)
and Bob Lampione (first).
At the beginning of the 1969 flying
The winning 1970 United States F2B team (L-R): the author with the Patriot, that year’s
World Champion Bill Werwage, and Bob Gieseke.
Plenty of cooling air gets to the head of the engine through that massive scoop! The
“chip”-type muffler and hole allow engine prime in the venturi.
“Aggressive” might be the best word to describe the aesthetics of this competitive
model. The author does outstanding paintwork!
Wheel covers are attached to main
landing-gear struts with small machine
screws. Wide gear placement yields great
ground handling.
Photos courtesy the author
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:21 pm Page 41
season, I had no intention of trying out for the FAI team that would
attend the World Championships in Namur, Belgium, in 1970.
However, Bob Gieseke approached me at the 1969 Nats and
encouraged me to attend the Team Trials. He told me that based on
how I was flying that year, I had as good a chance at making the team
as anybody. Not only did I make the team, but I placed first in the
team-selection competition. That was my “shining moment” in CL
Stunt.
Once I made the team, there was never a doubt about what I was
going to build for the 1970 world competition. It would be the same
design, but with a splashy paint scheme that represented the good, old
USA. I chose the name “Patriot.” With a light-blue base coat, I added
stars and stripes to my liking.
The 1970 airplane also flew great, and its handling characteristics
were almost identical to that of the 1969 airplane. The Patriot and I
ended up in fourth place at the 1970 World Championships. Bill
Werwage finished first, Bob Gieseke finished second, and
Czechoslovakia’s Gabris nudged me out of third place by 11 points
(1,897 to 1,886). The US team finished in first place. It was a great
experience.
My 2002 model has the exact paint scheme I used on the 1970
airplane that went to Belgium. Using the original trim, name, and
AMA-number stencils I made in 1969/1970, I re-created the colorful
trim as accurately as possible. I even duplicated the cockpit detail
accurately based on plan detail and an old close-up photo of the 1969
airplane cockpit that I got from Jack Sheeks a few years ago.
When I finally flew the new airplane in Tucson, seeing it out there
You can see the bellcrank mount and landing-gear mount plates.
Check out the lightening holes! Save weight where you can!
The flaps are made from stiff 1⁄4 balsa and joined with the flap
horn. They are shown ready to be hinged to the wing.
The completed
airframe is ready
for finish. Strip of
.02-ounce carbon
mat on the TE of
the stabilizer
provides extra
strength. Do the
bottom the same
way.
42 MODEL AVIATION
Adjustable leadout guide is installed in the wingtip. Note
clearance slot in spar and lightening holes in tip plate.
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:22 pm Page 42
on the end of the lines was like coming home.
It was no secret that I was a happy camper.
Bob Hunt even dubbed me the “Happy
Patriot” while we were at the VSC.
CONSTRUCTION
If you want to end up with a light model,
you have to build light from the start. Use
only contest-grade balsa (4- to 6-pound
density). Where plywood is used, try to
lighten it significantly by drilling holes in
places where its strength is not a factor. Refer
to the holes in the wing landing-gear
platforms and the nose doublers in the fueltank
compartment on the plans. You should
also drill out the engine rails in the tankcompartment
area to eliminate weight that
isn’t really doing anything for you.
When you use cyanoacrylate glue or
epoxy, remember that you get what you put
in. These bonding agents do not lighten as
they dry, as do acetone-based glues (such as
Sig-Ment) or aliphatic-resin glues (such as
Sig-Bond, Titebond, or Elmer’s carpenter’s
glue). Choose the proper glue for the
application, and try not to use excessive
amounts.
As far as the actual construction, you
should have no trouble with this project if
you’ve built a Nobler or any similarly
constructed model.
Wing: The wing is a conventional D-tube
design with a 1⁄16-inch planked LE and a 3⁄32-
inch planked TE. The D-tube spar is 3⁄32 balsa
notched for the ribs like a Nobler (first rib top
half, second rib bottom half, etc.). The LE is a
1⁄4-inch spar. For strength, the LE is
subplanked with 1⁄16 balsa through rib number
3. The center-section itself is planked with 3⁄32
balsa.
The TE is finished with a 1⁄8 balsa cap.
Before capping the LE with 1⁄8 or 3⁄32 balsa,
plane the planked LE flat, removing stock
until most of the glue joint between the
planking and the LE spar is removed. Then
cement the cap in place.
When giving the LE its final shape, make
sure you achieve a radius no less than 1⁄4 inch.
I like to make a small sanding block from
balsa with the desired radius, and this also
June 2004 43
Rib-Making Procedure
Left: For the first cut, position the master template in line with centerline on the rib
material. Make sure the TE of the template is positioned at one “rib length” mark. Cut
all the way around the TE of the template, but only as far forward as the vertical line on
the template. Right: Result of the first cut.
Left: For the second cut, slide the rib template back so that the inside of the LE notch
lines up with the other “rib length” mark. Using the point of a compass (or similar
device) positioned in the notch, pivot the rear of the template downward until the top of
the template is tangent with the first cut. Cut from the LE back to, and connecting with,
the first cut. Right: Result of the second cut.
Left: For the third cut, pivot the template upward until the bottom of the template is
tangent with the first cut. Cut from the LE back to, and connecting with, the first cut.
Right: Result of the third cut.
Left: For the last cut, pivot the template back up so that the centerlines match.
Complete the two small cuts at the LE notch. At this point, the basic rib shape cut is
complete. Right: Result of the last cut.
Type: CL Classic Stunt
Wingspan: 57.5 inches
Engine: AeroTiger .36
Flying weight: 46 ounces
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering/finish: Tissue and dope
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 43
Full-Size Plans Available—see page 199
44 MODEL AVIATION
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 44
ensures that the whole LE is consistent in
shape.
The procedure for making this model’s
ribs is a bit different from what you may be
used to, so I have presented it in a sidebar.
The photos depict laying out a representative
rib on a piece of white card stock. This was
done to allow good definition for the
procedure. In actual practice, the ribs would
be laid out on the actual balsa rib stock.
The wingtips start as a piece of 1⁄16 balsa
(see plans for location of holes to lighten)
with edges laminated with scrap 1⁄4 balsa, top
and bottom. Once cemented in place, you can
notch the laminations to accept 1⁄16-inch
planking at the LE and 3⁄32 inch at the TE.
Leave the wing TE planking long during wing
construction, and then simply pinch it
together and cement it in notches in the
wingtip edge laminations.
Before I install the wingtip ribs, I like to
contour and taper the rest of the tip
laminations so that they blend in with the end
wing rib. To accomplish this, I use a large
sanding block and a straightedge to check for
surface continuity. I also try to attain an
approximately 1⁄4-inch rounded edge along
most of the tip’s perimeter. Then I can install
and block-sand the tip ribs to match the rest of
the tip surface contour. Although the 2002
model has a tip weight box and an adjustable
leadout guide, these items are optional.
The original models had 3-inch bellcranks,
but I chose a Brodak 4-inch nylon bellcrank
this time around. (Modern thinking, you
know.) Installation is conventional with a
plywood floor. For added strength I support
the top of the bellcrank bolt with another
section of plywood running to the first inside
panel rib and reinforced appropriately to the
spar and center-section planking.
Make the flaps from 1⁄4 balsa, and taper
them to approximately 1⁄8-inch thickness at
the TE. I make my own control horns, but
there are enough quality products on the
market from which to choose if you elect to
purchase these items. The original models
also had handmade plywood and piano-wire
hinges, as shown in the plans. I chose tissue
taffeta hinges (100% polyester) for the 2002
model to achieve a totally sealed hinge line.
Conventional nylon hinges are another option.
If you use cloth hinges, make sure they are
100% polyester. Even if you purchase
material that is labeled 100% polyester, test it
before you use it. Apply a few drops of thin
cyanoacrylate on a test piece and allow it to
dry thoroughly. Once it has dried, bend the
test area back and forth several times and tug
at it to make sure it will not fatigue and
eventually fail.
Empennage: Cut the stabilizer and elevator
from 3⁄8 balsa sheet, shape them to achieve the
cross-section foil shown, and then hollow
them as shown on the planform. Then add the
1⁄16-inch ribs.
I covered the original versions with
medium-weight silkspan, and that provided
adequate strength for the stabilizer. However,
I covered almost the entire 2002 model with
light plyspan (Sig Japanese tissue). Because
of that, I covered the stabilizer with two
layers of medium plyspan to achieve the
needed strength.
Another method of increasing this fairly
fragile stabilizer’s strength is to cement thin
unidirectional carbon tape to the inside of the
cutout area before installing the ribs. Run the
carbon out from the center approximately 5
inches before installing the ribs. On the new
model I applied a layer of thin carbon mat on
the top and bottom of the stabilizer’s TE, but
I’m sure that did not provide as much
strength as the unidirectional carbon tape
would have.
The rudder and fin are also made from 3⁄8
sheet balsa and covered with thin carbon mat
for strength. I also used carbon mat on the
flaps for rigidity and on the model’s nose for
durability.
Fuselage: The fuselage also uses fairly
conventional construction, with 1⁄8-inch sides,
1⁄16 plywood nose doublers, and adequate
bulkhead placement. However, the bulkheads
are built up.
Glue 1⁄16 balsa that is approximately 1⁄2
inch wide vertically to the inside of each
fuselage side as indicated on the planform.
Invert the fuselage sides and place them on a
flat building surface for further assembly.
Using a centerline on the building surface,
complete the tank-compartment area as the
first step in joining the halves. Cut and install
horizontal bulkhead stringers in the remainder
of the fuselage (where the 1⁄2-inch vertical
bulkheads strips are located), achieving the
appropriate width as indicated on the
planform. These horizontal stringers can be
made from 1⁄8 or 3⁄16 balsa, and they only need
to be roughly 3⁄8 inch wide.
Temporarily remove the fuselage side
sections under the wing for wing installation.
Employ top and bottom blocks to achieve
desired shapes, and then hollow them to a
wall thickness of approximately 1⁄8 inch.
Build the cowl from sheet and blocks, and
then shape and hollow it. I continue to use
one of the oldest cowl-hold-down techniques
on most of my models: a bicycle spoke and a
spoke nut. It works well and presents well.
I cut the canopy from a Sig 11-inch
bubble and soaked it in blue Rit dye to
achieve desired tint intensity.
Finish: I finished the 2002 model with
Brodak dope and was extremely satisfied
with the results. As a matter of fact, the
model won the pilots’ choice award
(Concours award) at the 2002 Vintage Stunt
Championships.
Much has been written about finishing, so
I won’t elaborate on my technique in this
article. Whatever approach you do use for the
finish, I can’t stress enough the importance of
your keeping the weight down.
If you do build this model, and you build it
light and straight, you will absolutely love the
way it flies. Have fun, and let me know what
you think of your Patriot. I think I hear my
balsa block calling me. MA
Gerry Phelps
4175 Sacramento Blvd.
Medina OH 44256
(Editor’s note: Gerry is one of those rare
CL Stunt pilots who flies his models in a
clockwise direction [when the model is in the
upright position]. Because of that, his control
system is set up with the leadouts running out
the right wing.
His plan drawing depicts this preference
and shows the right wing panel as the longer
of the two. For those of you who fly the other
way, you will need to build the left wing as the
longer wing and reverse the control system as
it is depicted.)
46 MODEL AVIATION
06sig2.QXD 3/24/04 3:23 pm Page 46
F u l l - S i z e P l a n s
958 Patriot ...........................................................................................................$11.25
CL Classic Stunt model by Phelps spans 57.5 inches
959 Cruiser 60 ...................................................................................................$22.50
D.B. Mathews’ RC sport model is follow-up to 40-size design
No. 917 Sir Lancelot: RC sport model by Henry for O.S. .61 spans 72 inches D
No. 918 Skyraider: CL 1/2A Profile by Sarpolus for Norvel BigMig .061 spans 29 inches B
No. 925 Bird-E-Dog: Ernie Heyworth and Ed Lokken’s RC Electric Sport Scale model C
No. 926 JoeCat: RC sport jet by Beshar for Toki .18 DF unit spans 37 inches C
No. 927 Kairos: CL Stunt model by Dixon for .46-.61 engine spans 58 inches C
No. 928 Beta Blue Chip Racer: Rubber-powered FF Scale model designed by Tom Derber B
No. 929 Dewoitine D.338: Multimotor RC Electric Scale by Mikulasko spans 781/2 inches E
No. 930 Westland Lysander: RC Scale model by Baker for .25 spans 56 inches E
No. 931 1959 Ares: Champion RC Aerobatics model by Werwage spans 501/2 inches C
No. 932 Wing400: RC Electric flying wing by Hanley for Speed 400 spans 36 inches B
No. 933 Kepler 450: CL speed-limit Combat model by Edwards for .21-.32 two-stroke A
Plan does not include full-size template shown on page 40 of the August 2002 issue.
No. 934 VariEze: FF Peanut Scale canard by Heckman spans 13 inches A
No. 935 Classic 320: 1/2A Classic Power design by Pailet for Cyclon .049 or equivalent B
No. 936 Prince: RC sport Pattern model by Robelen for O.S. .25 spans 51 inches C
No. 937 Clean Cut: RC sport aerobatic model by Sarpolus spans 90 inches E
No. 938 Diamond Gem: Compressed-air-powered FF sport model by Ken Johnson B
No. 939 Project Extra: RC Scale Aerobatics model by Mike Hurley spans 106 inches **$49.50
No. 940 Cessna No.1: RC Electric Sport Scale by Papic spans 321/2 inches B
No. 941 Mooney and Beechcraft Bonanza CL 1/2A profile sport models by Rick Sarpolus B
No. 942 Zenith CH 801: FF Rubber Scale model by Fineman spans 20 inches A
No. 943 Wildman 60: Old-Time Ignition CL Stunt model by Carter spans 591/2 inches C
No. 944 Shoestring: Semiscale RC sport Pattern design by deBolt spans 60 inches D
No. 945 F-86 Sabre: Semiscale CL Stunt model by Hutchinson spans 56 inches E
No. 946 Electric Zephyr: Electric RC Pylon/sport model by Smith spans 40 inches B
No. 947 Chester Special: O.S. .40-powered CL Scale model by Beatty spans 43 inches **$27.00
No. 948 Moffett Redux: High-performance Rubber-powered FF design by Langenberg C
No. 949 Scratch-One: Electric RC sailplane/basic trainer by Aberle spans 45 inches B
No. 950 BareCat 650-C: CL sport Stunt model by Netzeband spans 541/4 inches E
No. 951 Douglas O-46A: RC Sport Scale model by Baker spans 54 inches E
No. 952 Lavochkin LaGG-3: Felton’s CL Sport Scale design made from cardboard E
No. 953 USA-1: Multiple-award-winning CL Stunt model by Werwage spans 611/2 inches C
No. 954 B-2 Spirit Stealth Bomber: Electric FF model by Ken Johnson spans 42 inches B
No. 955 Electric Flash: Electric-powered RC park flyer by Stewart spans 44 inches C
No. 956 Grumman F-4F Wildcat: Jim Ryan’s RC Electric fighter spans 30.6 inches C
No. 957 Right Angle: RC sport aerobatic model by Sarpolus spans 62 inches D
Full-size plan list available. A complete listing of all plans previously published in this
magazine through no. 959 may be obtained free of charge by writing (enclose 78¢
stamped, pre-addressed #10 business-size letter envelope) Model Aviation, 5161 E.
Memorial Dr., Muncie IN 47302
**Special Price