HISTORY: The Pfalz Aircraft Company (Pfalz
Flugzeugwerke) was one of Germany’s first aircraft
manufacturers, but its designs were overshadowed throughout
World War I by the more famous designs of manufacturers
such as Fokker and Albatros. When World War I broke out,
Fokker and Pfalz were building and testing E-type fighter
designs that were essentially based on the successful French
Morane-Saulnier type H monoplane design.
The first E-type fighters to be used by the German Air
Service were Fokkers. Few Pfalz type E aircraft ever saw
frontline service because it was quickly determined that the
Fokker E-type monoplanes were clearly superior in almost all
performance aspects and greatly preferred by their pilots.
The Pfalz E types were also considered to be more
prone to in-flight structural failures. In August 1916 all
Pfalz E-type aircraft were ordered to be withdrawn
from service, and they were then used only for
cannibalizing for parts.
The Pfalz and Fokker type E designs were
so similar in appearance that Allied pilots
simply referred to them all as
“Fokkers”; thus the Pfalz E types
were even less recognized.
The main visual
difference between
the Fokker and Pfalz
E types was the shape of
the vertical fin/rudder; it
was rounded on the Fokkers
January 2007 29
In flight the Pfalz gives the appearance of being much larger
than it actually is. It’s a great first build for new modelers!
and squared off on the TE of the Pfalz.
The most distinguishing visual feature associated with the
E.V was its use of a Mercedes liquid-cooled, in-line engine
rather than the commonly used Oberursel rotary engine. The E.V
did offer improved flight performance, but it was still inferior to
the more favored Fokker E designs. A total of 20 E.Vs were
built, but only three were ever used in frontline air units.
Model Selection: I wanted to construct an easy-to-build and -fly,
electric-powered model that resembled a World War I fighter,
and I wanted to be able to fly it indoors and outside as a back
yard or park flyer.
I didn’t choose the Pfalz E.V as a modeling subject only
because it was a bit different and a little-known design. I also
picked it because it was powered by an in-line engine that
resulted in a fuselage with a longer nose-moment arm that I
hoped would produce a better-flying model. Another appealing
factor was a fuselage that was essentially rectangular in shape,
making it easier to fabricate.
The scale fidelity of the model shown in this article has been
stretched to the point where calling it “sport scale” with the
emphasis on “sport” is accurate. The full-scale E.V’s wing was
supported by a series of guy wires that were attached to top and
bottom fuselage-mounted pylons. Since my intent never was to
create an exact-scale model or to add much scale detailing, I used
no guy wires or fuselage-support pylons on the model.
Although I enlarged and slightly altered the E.V’s tail
surfaces and took other scaling liberties to improve flight
performance, I feel that the finished model retains a reasonable
resemblance to the full-scale aircraft. In addition, this
construction job uses materials that are readily available in any
reasonably well-stocked hobby shop.
CONSTRUCTION
As with any model-building project, it is easier to cut out or
fabricate the shaped parts before starting the construction
process. The cut or shaped parts needed to make the Pfalz E.V
consist of the wing and aileron ribs, the motor-mount bulkhead,
and the three fuselage top formers.
Making a wing-rib cutting template from 1/32 or 1/16 plywood
speeds the rib-cutting process along. Rather than cut each aileron
rib individually, I cut a piece of 1/8 balsa sheet (cross-grain) 3/4
inch long and block-sanded it to a feathered edge on one end.
Then I could rapidly trim off each aileron rib using a Master
Airscrew balsa stripper. This method was much easier.
The exact position of the motor-mounting bulkhead will be
determined by the type of motor unit you use. My prototype
model employed a GWS IPS A geared unit with a Feigao
brushless motor instead of the supplied power plant. My second
model (shown in the various construction photographs
accompanying this article) employed a Lens RC spindle-type,
direct-drive, brushless motor.
The original model, equipped with the GWS geared-motor
unit, was powered by a two-cell 340 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.
The second model, equipped with the Lens direct-drive brushless
motor, used a larger, two-cell 720 mAh pack.
Since the E.V’s construction is not overly difficult or
complicated, I will not present the following in a step-by-step,
place-tab-“A”-in-slot-“B”-on-part-“C” format. The wing panels,
fuselage, and tail surfaces—which are all of open-structure,
built-up contest-grade-balsa construction—are made directly
over the plans sheet. Be sure to cover the plans sheet with waxed
paper or clear plastic to facilitate easy removal of the various
subassemblies.
Wing: Construct each wing panel by pinning the lower 1/8 x 1/4
main spar, ribs, 3/16 x 3/8 LE, and 3/16 x 5/16 sub-TE in place along
with the 3/16 x 1/4 square tip pieces. Once everything is properly
aligned, glue the structure together using thin-viscosity
cyanoacrylate.
Glue the two upper 1/8 square spars in place along with the
angled tip piece at the end of the upper main spar.
Construct each aileron over the plans. Pin the lower 1/16 sheet
in place along with the 1/8 square aileron LE piece, all the aileron
ribs, and the tapered 1/8 sheet filler piece that supports the aileron
torque rod. Glue this assembly together with cyanoacrylate. Glue
the aileron top 1/16 sheet in place.
To join the two wing panels, block-sand the proper dihedral
angle on the protruding spars, LE, and sub-TE. On a flat surface
pin one wing panel flat and block up the other panel so that there
is an inch of dihedral measured underneath the outermost wing
rib. Apply cyanoacrylate to the spars, LE, and sub-TE butt
joints.
Remove the wing and install the various balsa-sheet centersection
dihedral braces and servo-mounting rails. Finish-sand the
wing and ailerons to the indicated airfoil contours.
Trial-fit the aileron hinges and torque rods in place, but do
not glue them.
(The plans sheet shows a permanently mounted wing. That is
the way I built both of my E.Vs since they are relatively small
models. Others may prefer to use a removable wing for more
compact storage and transportability. This is certainly a viable
option, using the conventional rubber-band-and-dowels method
or small nylon bolts. If you pick one of
these alternative wing-mounting methods,
you will have to modify the wing centersection
accordingly.)
Fuselage: The two basic fuselage sides,
which are indicated with shading, are
constructed directly over the plans sheet
using 1/8 square balsa. A vertical piece of
1/16 x 1/8 balsa is to be used where the
fuselage side sheeting ends.
The 1/8 square balsa vertical uprights that
support the motor-mounting bulkhead should
be positioned fore or aft, according to the
motor unit that will be used. The bottom of
the motor-mounting bulkhead will have to be
trimmed or lengthened accordingly.
Glue the 1/16 fuselage side sheeting in
place over the basic fuselage side structures,
as well as the 1/16 sheeting that is inlaid flush
with the side structure at the tail. Ensure that
you make a left- and right-hand side!
Measure and cut the 1/8-inch slots in the tail
sheeting on each fuselage side to accept the
stabilizer.
After sanding the fuselage side sheeting
flush with the outer edges of the basic side
structure, pin both fuselage sides in place
(bottom side up) along the forward flat
portion of each side, over the fuselage top
view on the plans sheet.
Glue the various 1/8 square crosspieces in
place (top and bottom), ensuring that the
fuselage sides are square to the building
surface and that the fuselage curvature
matches the plans sheet.
Remove the fuselage structure from the
building board and glue the motor-mounting
bulkhead and 1/8 poplar plywood landinggear-
mounting blocks in place. The poplar
plywood landing-gear blocks should be
slotted to accept the landing-gear-assembly
upper crossmembers.
Inlay 1/16 sheeting flush with the top and
bottom in the exterior surfaces of the
fuselage at the tail.
Fabricate the landing-gear structure using
two pieces of .047 (3/64-inch-diameter) music
wire. The landing-gear axle is a straight 53/4-
inch-long piece of wire.
Mount the landing-gear
assembly in place. I
drilled small holes
in each poplar
plywood block and
used button thread for this
purpose, and I applied
cyanoacrylate to each wrapped
attachment point.
Glue the 1/16 bottom sheeting
pieces in place, cross-grain, and fabricate
the bottom access hatch. Glue formers
The left wing panel takes shape over the plans. This wing is simple to construct
accurately on a flat building board because of the flat-bottom airfoil.
The two fuselage sides are built over the plans, as shown. The construction is light but
also extremely strong.
The fuselage sides and tail assembly pieces are quickly produced and are ready for
assembly. There’s nothing here to fear when building.
January 2007 31
Two pieces of .047 music wire are used to make the landinggear
system. The axle is a straight piece of wire that measures
53/4 inches long.
Above: Lens RC brushless motor
equipped with Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 ESC and motor-mounting
bulkhead with motor mount.
Mount the landing-gear assembly in place by drilling small holes in
each poplar plywood block and using button thread to lash it in
place. Apply cyanoacrylate to each wrapped attachment point.
Left: It’s almost a shame to cover
woodwork this pretty! Note the pilot
figure and simulated machine gun. The
details make the difference!
Pfalz E.V
Type: Sport scale
Ready-to-fly weight: 7.8 ounces
Wingspan: 39.75 inches
Wing area: 258 square inches
Recommended motor: Small outrunner
type (direct drive), brushless
Control functions: Rudder,
elevator, ailerons, throttle
Elevator throws: 1/2
inch up and down
Aileron throws: 1/4 inch up and down
Rudder throws: 7/8 inch left and right
Side thrust: 0°
Downthrust/upthrust: 0°
Incidence: Stabilizer, 0º; wing, 2º
(built in)
Construction: Balsa and poplar
plywood
Covering/finish: Balsa Products
Light Weight Tissue (polyester)
Photos by the author
32 MODEL AVIATION
There’s ample room in the Pfalz’s fuselage for the microservos that are used. Notice the
neat pushrod attachments. This is clean work!
In this view of the tail area you can see the tail-skid detail and some of the graphics that
lend to the model’s scale appearance.
F1, F2, and F3 in place along with the top
sheeting from F3 aft. Install the forward top
sheeting over the formers. Glue the 1/4 sheet
nose block in place.
Fabricate the 1/8 square basswood tail skid
and .032 (1/32-inch-diameter) music-wire
brace, and trial-fit this assembly. Do not glue
it in place at this time; it is easier to
permanently install after the fuselage has been
covered.
The next step will depend on which
method of attaching the wing is to be
employed. If the wing is to be permanently
installed, as shown on the plans sheet, all you
need to do is mark and cut out the sheeting on
each side of the fuselage, to accept the wing.
(The plywood template that was made to cut
out the wing ribs comes in handy for this, but
be sure to allow for the LE and sub-TE
portions.)
If you prefer a removable wing, carefully
cut and remove the upper portion of the
fuselage, aft from former F3 and directly
above the wing, down to the 1/8 square lateral
fuselage pieces that provide the proper wing
incidence.
After mounting the wing to the fuselage—
using either the rubber-band-and-dowel or
nylon-bolt method—trim the removed portion
of the fuselage to fit in its original position
(flush with the fuselage) and glue it in place
on top of the wing center-section.
Sand the nose block to the indicated
contour, and feather the fuselage sheeting
flush with the 1/8 fuselage longerons.
Cut the engine access and cooling opening
in the nose block. Fine-sand the entire
fuselage assembly.
Tail Surfaces: Construct all the tail surfaces,
primarily from 1/8 square balsa, directly over
the plans sheet.
Use two pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 balsa,
laminated to facilitate bending, on the
radiused portions of the vertical fin/rudder.
After construction, lightly block-sand all the
tail surfaces, radius all the perimeter edges,
and trial-fit the hinges.
Fashion the elevator coupler from a piece
of 1/16 dowel, such as the wood portion of an
ordinary cotton-tipped applicator. Cut the
horn portion from a small piece of 1/32
plywood.
My original model employed a fixed
rudder and the second model used an
operable rudder. Both fly fine, but the version
equipped with a controllable rudder is more
aerobatic and can be taxied.
Covering: Both of my E.Vs were covered
with Balsa Products’ Light Weight Tissue
made from polyester fiber. I selected the
Antique White color because it more closely
resembles the early World War I fabric
finishes that were used.
This heat-shrinkable tissue results in a far
more realistic finish than the glossy film-type
coverings. And although it is slightly porous,
it is water resistant.
Since this material does not have an
adhesive backing, you must apply a coat of
heat-activated adhesive, such as Balsaloc, to
all surface areas to which the tissue will be
attached. It can be sealed with a light coat of
dope, but that isn’t necessary.
The Light Weight Tissue weighs .673
ounce per square yard, compared to a filmtype
covering such as Solarfilm Lite (So-Lite)
that weighs .600 ounce per yard.
Another advantage of the polyester tissue
is that it is stronger and more puncture
resistant than film-type covering.
I covered all of the various subassembly
pieces before final assembly.
Final Assembly: If the wing is to be
permanently mounted, slide it (less ailerons
and torque rods) into place through the
openings that were cut in the fuselage. After
making sure the wing is properly aligned,
glue it in place.
Install the aileron torque rods into the
recesses that were cut into the wing sub-TE
and glue them in place. A small amount of
thicker-viscosity cyanoacrylate works well for
this because it is less likely to wick into the
torque-rod and bushing assembly.
(Applying a bit of oil to the bushing or
wax, sealing the ends of the bushing, before
applying the cyanoacrylate is additional
insurance that the torque rods will move freely
after they are permanently glued in place.)
The sequence I used for mounting the tail
surfaces was to position the elevator coupler
in place and connect it to the control rod and
elevator servo before sliding the stabilizer into
position. After you have properly aligned the
stabilizer, glue it in place and install the
elevators.
Install the vertical fin/rudder (fixed or
operable) and the tail-skid assembly.
I used 8-pound-test (black) monofilament
fishing line for the “pull-pull”-type ruddercontrol
cables.
To dress up my model a bit I installed a
pilot bust and a machine gun. The pilot was
made from hollowed-out rigid foam, and it
weighed .18 ounce. The .05-ounce machine
gun was fabricated from 1/16 balsa-sheet
scraps and a small piece of drafting Mylar.
I cut the black Maltese cross insignia from
black Major Decals water-transfer-decal sheet
material.
Radio and Power Details: I used an
Airtronics RD8000 transmitter with both of
my Pfalz E.Vs. I equipped the original model
with an Airtronics microreceiver (item
92515Z) and Super MicroLite servos (item
94091Z).
I equipped the subject of this article with a
GWS R4P Pico receiver and GWS Pico
servos. It was powered with a direct-drive
Lens (17-turn) brushless motor equipped with
a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 ESC and a
Great Planes ElectriFly two-cell 720 mAh Li-
Poly battery pack (item GPMP0810). I
installed a GWS 8 x 4 propeller (item
EP8040).
I obtained the indicated CG by positioning
the battery pack just forward of the CG point
shown. The control-surface travel limits were
set up according to the dimensions shown on
the plans sheet.
Ready to fly, my Pfalz E.V weighed 7.8
ounces. That produced a modest wing loading
of 4.35 ounces per square foot.
Flying: The E.V model shown was
constructed during what most RC modelers in
New England commonly refer to as “The
Building Season.” Nonaeromodeling area
residents simply refer to this time of year as
“January and February.”
As my age increases, so do the outside-airtemperature
minimums I consider to be
acceptable for RC flying. Long gone are the
days of flying in single-digit temperatures and
actually enjoying it, with the transmitter and
my hands encased in an insulated mitt!
Fortunately, RC indoor flying sessions
have been scheduled weekly in my area at a
relatively new sports facility that encompasses
three soccer fields. For local modelers these
indoor sessions have proven to be popular and
a welcome break from the monotony of what
seems to be unending cold, snowy, dreary
winter weather. With no numbing conditions
or wind to contend with, what better place to
test-fly the Pfalz?
As the system battery packs were fully
charged, the preflight check consisted of a
radio range check and a quick wiggle of the
sticks to ensure that all controls were
functioning properly. The takeoff was to be
made from flat artificial turf, which presented
an ideal opportunity to assess groundhandling
capabilities. I spent a few moments
just taxiing the E.V. In spite of being
equipped with a fixed tail skid, the model’s
ground handling was quite good.
I made a smooth takeoff by holding a bit
of right rudder and up-elevator while
gradually advancing the throttle. The takeoff
run was straight and surprisingly short, and it
was quickly apparent that the Lens directdrive
brushless motor was an ideal power
choice.
Several blips of down-elevator and one
blip of right aileron were the only things
needed to have the Pfalz flying nicely. Then I
spent several minutes just flying the model
around to assess its in-flight capabilities and
traits. Most of this flight time was used flying
at half to two-thirds throttle. At full throttle
the airplane will easily loop from straight and
level flight, and it is reasonably aerobatic.
Landing the E.V was easy and uneventful.
My initial test flight was seven to eight
minutes in duration, and there was still “time”
left in the 720 mAh battery pack. Subsequent
flights revealed that flights in the 12- to 14-
minute range were easy to attain with
judicious use of the throttle. The model flies
much like a trainer.
I have flown my E.V outdoors on many
occasions, with no mishaps. I have found it to
be a fun airplane to fly that will perform well
even in less than calm air conditions. Wind
conditions that allow any of the popular slow
park flyer designs to be used pose no problem
for the Pfalz.
Although this model can be flown in mildbreeze
conditions, it is an ideal fun-type
airplane for the calm air in which you can fly
it low and slow, only a foot or two above the
ground, with complete confidence.
If you are searching for a simple, lowcost,
electric-powered sport-scale building
project, I hope you find the Pfalz E.V to be
of interest. MA
Bob Wallace
[email protected]
Sources:
Water-Transfer Decals:
Major Decals
21 Fisher Ave.
East Longmeadow MA 01028
(413) 525-7465
www.majordecals.com
ESC:
Castle Creations
402 E. Pendleton Ave.
Wellsville KS 66092
(785) 883-4571
www.castlecreations.com
Todd’s Models
Box 827
Snoqualmie WA 98065
(425) 888-3201
www.toddsmodels.com/index.html
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34
HISTORY: The Pfalz Aircraft Company (Pfalz
Flugzeugwerke) was one of Germany’s first aircraft
manufacturers, but its designs were overshadowed throughout
World War I by the more famous designs of manufacturers
such as Fokker and Albatros. When World War I broke out,
Fokker and Pfalz were building and testing E-type fighter
designs that were essentially based on the successful French
Morane-Saulnier type H monoplane design.
The first E-type fighters to be used by the German Air
Service were Fokkers. Few Pfalz type E aircraft ever saw
frontline service because it was quickly determined that the
Fokker E-type monoplanes were clearly superior in almost all
performance aspects and greatly preferred by their pilots.
The Pfalz E types were also considered to be more
prone to in-flight structural failures. In August 1916 all
Pfalz E-type aircraft were ordered to be withdrawn
from service, and they were then used only for
cannibalizing for parts.
The Pfalz and Fokker type E designs were
so similar in appearance that Allied pilots
simply referred to them all as
“Fokkers”; thus the Pfalz E types
were even less recognized.
The main visual
difference between
the Fokker and Pfalz
E types was the shape of
the vertical fin/rudder; it
was rounded on the Fokkers
January 2007 29
In flight the Pfalz gives the appearance of being much larger
than it actually is. It’s a great first build for new modelers!
and squared off on the TE of the Pfalz.
The most distinguishing visual feature associated with the
E.V was its use of a Mercedes liquid-cooled, in-line engine
rather than the commonly used Oberursel rotary engine. The E.V
did offer improved flight performance, but it was still inferior to
the more favored Fokker E designs. A total of 20 E.Vs were
built, but only three were ever used in frontline air units.
Model Selection: I wanted to construct an easy-to-build and -fly,
electric-powered model that resembled a World War I fighter,
and I wanted to be able to fly it indoors and outside as a back
yard or park flyer.
I didn’t choose the Pfalz E.V as a modeling subject only
because it was a bit different and a little-known design. I also
picked it because it was powered by an in-line engine that
resulted in a fuselage with a longer nose-moment arm that I
hoped would produce a better-flying model. Another appealing
factor was a fuselage that was essentially rectangular in shape,
making it easier to fabricate.
The scale fidelity of the model shown in this article has been
stretched to the point where calling it “sport scale” with the
emphasis on “sport” is accurate. The full-scale E.V’s wing was
supported by a series of guy wires that were attached to top and
bottom fuselage-mounted pylons. Since my intent never was to
create an exact-scale model or to add much scale detailing, I used
no guy wires or fuselage-support pylons on the model.
Although I enlarged and slightly altered the E.V’s tail
surfaces and took other scaling liberties to improve flight
performance, I feel that the finished model retains a reasonable
resemblance to the full-scale aircraft. In addition, this
construction job uses materials that are readily available in any
reasonably well-stocked hobby shop.
CONSTRUCTION
As with any model-building project, it is easier to cut out or
fabricate the shaped parts before starting the construction
process. The cut or shaped parts needed to make the Pfalz E.V
consist of the wing and aileron ribs, the motor-mount bulkhead,
and the three fuselage top formers.
Making a wing-rib cutting template from 1/32 or 1/16 plywood
speeds the rib-cutting process along. Rather than cut each aileron
rib individually, I cut a piece of 1/8 balsa sheet (cross-grain) 3/4
inch long and block-sanded it to a feathered edge on one end.
Then I could rapidly trim off each aileron rib using a Master
Airscrew balsa stripper. This method was much easier.
The exact position of the motor-mounting bulkhead will be
determined by the type of motor unit you use. My prototype
model employed a GWS IPS A geared unit with a Feigao
brushless motor instead of the supplied power plant. My second
model (shown in the various construction photographs
accompanying this article) employed a Lens RC spindle-type,
direct-drive, brushless motor.
The original model, equipped with the GWS geared-motor
unit, was powered by a two-cell 340 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.
The second model, equipped with the Lens direct-drive brushless
motor, used a larger, two-cell 720 mAh pack.
Since the E.V’s construction is not overly difficult or
complicated, I will not present the following in a step-by-step,
place-tab-“A”-in-slot-“B”-on-part-“C” format. The wing panels,
fuselage, and tail surfaces—which are all of open-structure,
built-up contest-grade-balsa construction—are made directly
over the plans sheet. Be sure to cover the plans sheet with waxed
paper or clear plastic to facilitate easy removal of the various
subassemblies.
Wing: Construct each wing panel by pinning the lower 1/8 x 1/4
main spar, ribs, 3/16 x 3/8 LE, and 3/16 x 5/16 sub-TE in place along
with the 3/16 x 1/4 square tip pieces. Once everything is properly
aligned, glue the structure together using thin-viscosity
cyanoacrylate.
Glue the two upper 1/8 square spars in place along with the
angled tip piece at the end of the upper main spar.
Construct each aileron over the plans. Pin the lower 1/16 sheet
in place along with the 1/8 square aileron LE piece, all the aileron
ribs, and the tapered 1/8 sheet filler piece that supports the aileron
torque rod. Glue this assembly together with cyanoacrylate. Glue
the aileron top 1/16 sheet in place.
To join the two wing panels, block-sand the proper dihedral
angle on the protruding spars, LE, and sub-TE. On a flat surface
pin one wing panel flat and block up the other panel so that there
is an inch of dihedral measured underneath the outermost wing
rib. Apply cyanoacrylate to the spars, LE, and sub-TE butt
joints.
Remove the wing and install the various balsa-sheet centersection
dihedral braces and servo-mounting rails. Finish-sand the
wing and ailerons to the indicated airfoil contours.
Trial-fit the aileron hinges and torque rods in place, but do
not glue them.
(The plans sheet shows a permanently mounted wing. That is
the way I built both of my E.Vs since they are relatively small
models. Others may prefer to use a removable wing for more
compact storage and transportability. This is certainly a viable
option, using the conventional rubber-band-and-dowels method
or small nylon bolts. If you pick one of
these alternative wing-mounting methods,
you will have to modify the wing centersection
accordingly.)
Fuselage: The two basic fuselage sides,
which are indicated with shading, are
constructed directly over the plans sheet
using 1/8 square balsa. A vertical piece of
1/16 x 1/8 balsa is to be used where the
fuselage side sheeting ends.
The 1/8 square balsa vertical uprights that
support the motor-mounting bulkhead should
be positioned fore or aft, according to the
motor unit that will be used. The bottom of
the motor-mounting bulkhead will have to be
trimmed or lengthened accordingly.
Glue the 1/16 fuselage side sheeting in
place over the basic fuselage side structures,
as well as the 1/16 sheeting that is inlaid flush
with the side structure at the tail. Ensure that
you make a left- and right-hand side!
Measure and cut the 1/8-inch slots in the tail
sheeting on each fuselage side to accept the
stabilizer.
After sanding the fuselage side sheeting
flush with the outer edges of the basic side
structure, pin both fuselage sides in place
(bottom side up) along the forward flat
portion of each side, over the fuselage top
view on the plans sheet.
Glue the various 1/8 square crosspieces in
place (top and bottom), ensuring that the
fuselage sides are square to the building
surface and that the fuselage curvature
matches the plans sheet.
Remove the fuselage structure from the
building board and glue the motor-mounting
bulkhead and 1/8 poplar plywood landinggear-
mounting blocks in place. The poplar
plywood landing-gear blocks should be
slotted to accept the landing-gear-assembly
upper crossmembers.
Inlay 1/16 sheeting flush with the top and
bottom in the exterior surfaces of the
fuselage at the tail.
Fabricate the landing-gear structure using
two pieces of .047 (3/64-inch-diameter) music
wire. The landing-gear axle is a straight 53/4-
inch-long piece of wire.
Mount the landing-gear
assembly in place. I
drilled small holes
in each poplar
plywood block and
used button thread for this
purpose, and I applied
cyanoacrylate to each wrapped
attachment point.
Glue the 1/16 bottom sheeting
pieces in place, cross-grain, and fabricate
the bottom access hatch. Glue formers
The left wing panel takes shape over the plans. This wing is simple to construct
accurately on a flat building board because of the flat-bottom airfoil.
The two fuselage sides are built over the plans, as shown. The construction is light but
also extremely strong.
The fuselage sides and tail assembly pieces are quickly produced and are ready for
assembly. There’s nothing here to fear when building.
January 2007 31
Two pieces of .047 music wire are used to make the landinggear
system. The axle is a straight piece of wire that measures
53/4 inches long.
Above: Lens RC brushless motor
equipped with Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 ESC and motor-mounting
bulkhead with motor mount.
Mount the landing-gear assembly in place by drilling small holes in
each poplar plywood block and using button thread to lash it in
place. Apply cyanoacrylate to each wrapped attachment point.
Left: It’s almost a shame to cover
woodwork this pretty! Note the pilot
figure and simulated machine gun. The
details make the difference!
Pfalz E.V
Type: Sport scale
Ready-to-fly weight: 7.8 ounces
Wingspan: 39.75 inches
Wing area: 258 square inches
Recommended motor: Small outrunner
type (direct drive), brushless
Control functions: Rudder,
elevator, ailerons, throttle
Elevator throws: 1/2
inch up and down
Aileron throws: 1/4 inch up and down
Rudder throws: 7/8 inch left and right
Side thrust: 0°
Downthrust/upthrust: 0°
Incidence: Stabilizer, 0º; wing, 2º
(built in)
Construction: Balsa and poplar
plywood
Covering/finish: Balsa Products
Light Weight Tissue (polyester)
Photos by the author
32 MODEL AVIATION
There’s ample room in the Pfalz’s fuselage for the microservos that are used. Notice the
neat pushrod attachments. This is clean work!
In this view of the tail area you can see the tail-skid detail and some of the graphics that
lend to the model’s scale appearance.
F1, F2, and F3 in place along with the top
sheeting from F3 aft. Install the forward top
sheeting over the formers. Glue the 1/4 sheet
nose block in place.
Fabricate the 1/8 square basswood tail skid
and .032 (1/32-inch-diameter) music-wire
brace, and trial-fit this assembly. Do not glue
it in place at this time; it is easier to
permanently install after the fuselage has been
covered.
The next step will depend on which
method of attaching the wing is to be
employed. If the wing is to be permanently
installed, as shown on the plans sheet, all you
need to do is mark and cut out the sheeting on
each side of the fuselage, to accept the wing.
(The plywood template that was made to cut
out the wing ribs comes in handy for this, but
be sure to allow for the LE and sub-TE
portions.)
If you prefer a removable wing, carefully
cut and remove the upper portion of the
fuselage, aft from former F3 and directly
above the wing, down to the 1/8 square lateral
fuselage pieces that provide the proper wing
incidence.
After mounting the wing to the fuselage—
using either the rubber-band-and-dowel or
nylon-bolt method—trim the removed portion
of the fuselage to fit in its original position
(flush with the fuselage) and glue it in place
on top of the wing center-section.
Sand the nose block to the indicated
contour, and feather the fuselage sheeting
flush with the 1/8 fuselage longerons.
Cut the engine access and cooling opening
in the nose block. Fine-sand the entire
fuselage assembly.
Tail Surfaces: Construct all the tail surfaces,
primarily from 1/8 square balsa, directly over
the plans sheet.
Use two pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 balsa,
laminated to facilitate bending, on the
radiused portions of the vertical fin/rudder.
After construction, lightly block-sand all the
tail surfaces, radius all the perimeter edges,
and trial-fit the hinges.
Fashion the elevator coupler from a piece
of 1/16 dowel, such as the wood portion of an
ordinary cotton-tipped applicator. Cut the
horn portion from a small piece of 1/32
plywood.
My original model employed a fixed
rudder and the second model used an
operable rudder. Both fly fine, but the version
equipped with a controllable rudder is more
aerobatic and can be taxied.
Covering: Both of my E.Vs were covered
with Balsa Products’ Light Weight Tissue
made from polyester fiber. I selected the
Antique White color because it more closely
resembles the early World War I fabric
finishes that were used.
This heat-shrinkable tissue results in a far
more realistic finish than the glossy film-type
coverings. And although it is slightly porous,
it is water resistant.
Since this material does not have an
adhesive backing, you must apply a coat of
heat-activated adhesive, such as Balsaloc, to
all surface areas to which the tissue will be
attached. It can be sealed with a light coat of
dope, but that isn’t necessary.
The Light Weight Tissue weighs .673
ounce per square yard, compared to a filmtype
covering such as Solarfilm Lite (So-Lite)
that weighs .600 ounce per yard.
Another advantage of the polyester tissue
is that it is stronger and more puncture
resistant than film-type covering.
I covered all of the various subassembly
pieces before final assembly.
Final Assembly: If the wing is to be
permanently mounted, slide it (less ailerons
and torque rods) into place through the
openings that were cut in the fuselage. After
making sure the wing is properly aligned,
glue it in place.
Install the aileron torque rods into the
recesses that were cut into the wing sub-TE
and glue them in place. A small amount of
thicker-viscosity cyanoacrylate works well for
this because it is less likely to wick into the
torque-rod and bushing assembly.
(Applying a bit of oil to the bushing or
wax, sealing the ends of the bushing, before
applying the cyanoacrylate is additional
insurance that the torque rods will move freely
after they are permanently glued in place.)
The sequence I used for mounting the tail
surfaces was to position the elevator coupler
in place and connect it to the control rod and
elevator servo before sliding the stabilizer into
position. After you have properly aligned the
stabilizer, glue it in place and install the
elevators.
Install the vertical fin/rudder (fixed or
operable) and the tail-skid assembly.
I used 8-pound-test (black) monofilament
fishing line for the “pull-pull”-type ruddercontrol
cables.
To dress up my model a bit I installed a
pilot bust and a machine gun. The pilot was
made from hollowed-out rigid foam, and it
weighed .18 ounce. The .05-ounce machine
gun was fabricated from 1/16 balsa-sheet
scraps and a small piece of drafting Mylar.
I cut the black Maltese cross insignia from
black Major Decals water-transfer-decal sheet
material.
Radio and Power Details: I used an
Airtronics RD8000 transmitter with both of
my Pfalz E.Vs. I equipped the original model
with an Airtronics microreceiver (item
92515Z) and Super MicroLite servos (item
94091Z).
I equipped the subject of this article with a
GWS R4P Pico receiver and GWS Pico
servos. It was powered with a direct-drive
Lens (17-turn) brushless motor equipped with
a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 ESC and a
Great Planes ElectriFly two-cell 720 mAh Li-
Poly battery pack (item GPMP0810). I
installed a GWS 8 x 4 propeller (item
EP8040).
I obtained the indicated CG by positioning
the battery pack just forward of the CG point
shown. The control-surface travel limits were
set up according to the dimensions shown on
the plans sheet.
Ready to fly, my Pfalz E.V weighed 7.8
ounces. That produced a modest wing loading
of 4.35 ounces per square foot.
Flying: The E.V model shown was
constructed during what most RC modelers in
New England commonly refer to as “The
Building Season.” Nonaeromodeling area
residents simply refer to this time of year as
“January and February.”
As my age increases, so do the outside-airtemperature
minimums I consider to be
acceptable for RC flying. Long gone are the
days of flying in single-digit temperatures and
actually enjoying it, with the transmitter and
my hands encased in an insulated mitt!
Fortunately, RC indoor flying sessions
have been scheduled weekly in my area at a
relatively new sports facility that encompasses
three soccer fields. For local modelers these
indoor sessions have proven to be popular and
a welcome break from the monotony of what
seems to be unending cold, snowy, dreary
winter weather. With no numbing conditions
or wind to contend with, what better place to
test-fly the Pfalz?
As the system battery packs were fully
charged, the preflight check consisted of a
radio range check and a quick wiggle of the
sticks to ensure that all controls were
functioning properly. The takeoff was to be
made from flat artificial turf, which presented
an ideal opportunity to assess groundhandling
capabilities. I spent a few moments
just taxiing the E.V. In spite of being
equipped with a fixed tail skid, the model’s
ground handling was quite good.
I made a smooth takeoff by holding a bit
of right rudder and up-elevator while
gradually advancing the throttle. The takeoff
run was straight and surprisingly short, and it
was quickly apparent that the Lens directdrive
brushless motor was an ideal power
choice.
Several blips of down-elevator and one
blip of right aileron were the only things
needed to have the Pfalz flying nicely. Then I
spent several minutes just flying the model
around to assess its in-flight capabilities and
traits. Most of this flight time was used flying
at half to two-thirds throttle. At full throttle
the airplane will easily loop from straight and
level flight, and it is reasonably aerobatic.
Landing the E.V was easy and uneventful.
My initial test flight was seven to eight
minutes in duration, and there was still “time”
left in the 720 mAh battery pack. Subsequent
flights revealed that flights in the 12- to 14-
minute range were easy to attain with
judicious use of the throttle. The model flies
much like a trainer.
I have flown my E.V outdoors on many
occasions, with no mishaps. I have found it to
be a fun airplane to fly that will perform well
even in less than calm air conditions. Wind
conditions that allow any of the popular slow
park flyer designs to be used pose no problem
for the Pfalz.
Although this model can be flown in mildbreeze
conditions, it is an ideal fun-type
airplane for the calm air in which you can fly
it low and slow, only a foot or two above the
ground, with complete confidence.
If you are searching for a simple, lowcost,
electric-powered sport-scale building
project, I hope you find the Pfalz E.V to be
of interest. MA
Bob Wallace
[email protected]
Sources:
Water-Transfer Decals:
Major Decals
21 Fisher Ave.
East Longmeadow MA 01028
(413) 525-7465
www.majordecals.com
ESC:
Castle Creations
402 E. Pendleton Ave.
Wellsville KS 66092
(785) 883-4571
www.castlecreations.com
Todd’s Models
Box 827
Snoqualmie WA 98065
(425) 888-3201
www.toddsmodels.com/index.html
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34
HISTORY: The Pfalz Aircraft Company (Pfalz
Flugzeugwerke) was one of Germany’s first aircraft
manufacturers, but its designs were overshadowed throughout
World War I by the more famous designs of manufacturers
such as Fokker and Albatros. When World War I broke out,
Fokker and Pfalz were building and testing E-type fighter
designs that were essentially based on the successful French
Morane-Saulnier type H monoplane design.
The first E-type fighters to be used by the German Air
Service were Fokkers. Few Pfalz type E aircraft ever saw
frontline service because it was quickly determined that the
Fokker E-type monoplanes were clearly superior in almost all
performance aspects and greatly preferred by their pilots.
The Pfalz E types were also considered to be more
prone to in-flight structural failures. In August 1916 all
Pfalz E-type aircraft were ordered to be withdrawn
from service, and they were then used only for
cannibalizing for parts.
The Pfalz and Fokker type E designs were
so similar in appearance that Allied pilots
simply referred to them all as
“Fokkers”; thus the Pfalz E types
were even less recognized.
The main visual
difference between
the Fokker and Pfalz
E types was the shape of
the vertical fin/rudder; it
was rounded on the Fokkers
January 2007 29
In flight the Pfalz gives the appearance of being much larger
than it actually is. It’s a great first build for new modelers!
and squared off on the TE of the Pfalz.
The most distinguishing visual feature associated with the
E.V was its use of a Mercedes liquid-cooled, in-line engine
rather than the commonly used Oberursel rotary engine. The E.V
did offer improved flight performance, but it was still inferior to
the more favored Fokker E designs. A total of 20 E.Vs were
built, but only three were ever used in frontline air units.
Model Selection: I wanted to construct an easy-to-build and -fly,
electric-powered model that resembled a World War I fighter,
and I wanted to be able to fly it indoors and outside as a back
yard or park flyer.
I didn’t choose the Pfalz E.V as a modeling subject only
because it was a bit different and a little-known design. I also
picked it because it was powered by an in-line engine that
resulted in a fuselage with a longer nose-moment arm that I
hoped would produce a better-flying model. Another appealing
factor was a fuselage that was essentially rectangular in shape,
making it easier to fabricate.
The scale fidelity of the model shown in this article has been
stretched to the point where calling it “sport scale” with the
emphasis on “sport” is accurate. The full-scale E.V’s wing was
supported by a series of guy wires that were attached to top and
bottom fuselage-mounted pylons. Since my intent never was to
create an exact-scale model or to add much scale detailing, I used
no guy wires or fuselage-support pylons on the model.
Although I enlarged and slightly altered the E.V’s tail
surfaces and took other scaling liberties to improve flight
performance, I feel that the finished model retains a reasonable
resemblance to the full-scale aircraft. In addition, this
construction job uses materials that are readily available in any
reasonably well-stocked hobby shop.
CONSTRUCTION
As with any model-building project, it is easier to cut out or
fabricate the shaped parts before starting the construction
process. The cut or shaped parts needed to make the Pfalz E.V
consist of the wing and aileron ribs, the motor-mount bulkhead,
and the three fuselage top formers.
Making a wing-rib cutting template from 1/32 or 1/16 plywood
speeds the rib-cutting process along. Rather than cut each aileron
rib individually, I cut a piece of 1/8 balsa sheet (cross-grain) 3/4
inch long and block-sanded it to a feathered edge on one end.
Then I could rapidly trim off each aileron rib using a Master
Airscrew balsa stripper. This method was much easier.
The exact position of the motor-mounting bulkhead will be
determined by the type of motor unit you use. My prototype
model employed a GWS IPS A geared unit with a Feigao
brushless motor instead of the supplied power plant. My second
model (shown in the various construction photographs
accompanying this article) employed a Lens RC spindle-type,
direct-drive, brushless motor.
The original model, equipped with the GWS geared-motor
unit, was powered by a two-cell 340 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.
The second model, equipped with the Lens direct-drive brushless
motor, used a larger, two-cell 720 mAh pack.
Since the E.V’s construction is not overly difficult or
complicated, I will not present the following in a step-by-step,
place-tab-“A”-in-slot-“B”-on-part-“C” format. The wing panels,
fuselage, and tail surfaces—which are all of open-structure,
built-up contest-grade-balsa construction—are made directly
over the plans sheet. Be sure to cover the plans sheet with waxed
paper or clear plastic to facilitate easy removal of the various
subassemblies.
Wing: Construct each wing panel by pinning the lower 1/8 x 1/4
main spar, ribs, 3/16 x 3/8 LE, and 3/16 x 5/16 sub-TE in place along
with the 3/16 x 1/4 square tip pieces. Once everything is properly
aligned, glue the structure together using thin-viscosity
cyanoacrylate.
Glue the two upper 1/8 square spars in place along with the
angled tip piece at the end of the upper main spar.
Construct each aileron over the plans. Pin the lower 1/16 sheet
in place along with the 1/8 square aileron LE piece, all the aileron
ribs, and the tapered 1/8 sheet filler piece that supports the aileron
torque rod. Glue this assembly together with cyanoacrylate. Glue
the aileron top 1/16 sheet in place.
To join the two wing panels, block-sand the proper dihedral
angle on the protruding spars, LE, and sub-TE. On a flat surface
pin one wing panel flat and block up the other panel so that there
is an inch of dihedral measured underneath the outermost wing
rib. Apply cyanoacrylate to the spars, LE, and sub-TE butt
joints.
Remove the wing and install the various balsa-sheet centersection
dihedral braces and servo-mounting rails. Finish-sand the
wing and ailerons to the indicated airfoil contours.
Trial-fit the aileron hinges and torque rods in place, but do
not glue them.
(The plans sheet shows a permanently mounted wing. That is
the way I built both of my E.Vs since they are relatively small
models. Others may prefer to use a removable wing for more
compact storage and transportability. This is certainly a viable
option, using the conventional rubber-band-and-dowels method
or small nylon bolts. If you pick one of
these alternative wing-mounting methods,
you will have to modify the wing centersection
accordingly.)
Fuselage: The two basic fuselage sides,
which are indicated with shading, are
constructed directly over the plans sheet
using 1/8 square balsa. A vertical piece of
1/16 x 1/8 balsa is to be used where the
fuselage side sheeting ends.
The 1/8 square balsa vertical uprights that
support the motor-mounting bulkhead should
be positioned fore or aft, according to the
motor unit that will be used. The bottom of
the motor-mounting bulkhead will have to be
trimmed or lengthened accordingly.
Glue the 1/16 fuselage side sheeting in
place over the basic fuselage side structures,
as well as the 1/16 sheeting that is inlaid flush
with the side structure at the tail. Ensure that
you make a left- and right-hand side!
Measure and cut the 1/8-inch slots in the tail
sheeting on each fuselage side to accept the
stabilizer.
After sanding the fuselage side sheeting
flush with the outer edges of the basic side
structure, pin both fuselage sides in place
(bottom side up) along the forward flat
portion of each side, over the fuselage top
view on the plans sheet.
Glue the various 1/8 square crosspieces in
place (top and bottom), ensuring that the
fuselage sides are square to the building
surface and that the fuselage curvature
matches the plans sheet.
Remove the fuselage structure from the
building board and glue the motor-mounting
bulkhead and 1/8 poplar plywood landinggear-
mounting blocks in place. The poplar
plywood landing-gear blocks should be
slotted to accept the landing-gear-assembly
upper crossmembers.
Inlay 1/16 sheeting flush with the top and
bottom in the exterior surfaces of the
fuselage at the tail.
Fabricate the landing-gear structure using
two pieces of .047 (3/64-inch-diameter) music
wire. The landing-gear axle is a straight 53/4-
inch-long piece of wire.
Mount the landing-gear
assembly in place. I
drilled small holes
in each poplar
plywood block and
used button thread for this
purpose, and I applied
cyanoacrylate to each wrapped
attachment point.
Glue the 1/16 bottom sheeting
pieces in place, cross-grain, and fabricate
the bottom access hatch. Glue formers
The left wing panel takes shape over the plans. This wing is simple to construct
accurately on a flat building board because of the flat-bottom airfoil.
The two fuselage sides are built over the plans, as shown. The construction is light but
also extremely strong.
The fuselage sides and tail assembly pieces are quickly produced and are ready for
assembly. There’s nothing here to fear when building.
January 2007 31
Two pieces of .047 music wire are used to make the landinggear
system. The axle is a straight piece of wire that measures
53/4 inches long.
Above: Lens RC brushless motor
equipped with Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 ESC and motor-mounting
bulkhead with motor mount.
Mount the landing-gear assembly in place by drilling small holes in
each poplar plywood block and using button thread to lash it in
place. Apply cyanoacrylate to each wrapped attachment point.
Left: It’s almost a shame to cover
woodwork this pretty! Note the pilot
figure and simulated machine gun. The
details make the difference!
Pfalz E.V
Type: Sport scale
Ready-to-fly weight: 7.8 ounces
Wingspan: 39.75 inches
Wing area: 258 square inches
Recommended motor: Small outrunner
type (direct drive), brushless
Control functions: Rudder,
elevator, ailerons, throttle
Elevator throws: 1/2
inch up and down
Aileron throws: 1/4 inch up and down
Rudder throws: 7/8 inch left and right
Side thrust: 0°
Downthrust/upthrust: 0°
Incidence: Stabilizer, 0º; wing, 2º
(built in)
Construction: Balsa and poplar
plywood
Covering/finish: Balsa Products
Light Weight Tissue (polyester)
Photos by the author
32 MODEL AVIATION
There’s ample room in the Pfalz’s fuselage for the microservos that are used. Notice the
neat pushrod attachments. This is clean work!
In this view of the tail area you can see the tail-skid detail and some of the graphics that
lend to the model’s scale appearance.
F1, F2, and F3 in place along with the top
sheeting from F3 aft. Install the forward top
sheeting over the formers. Glue the 1/4 sheet
nose block in place.
Fabricate the 1/8 square basswood tail skid
and .032 (1/32-inch-diameter) music-wire
brace, and trial-fit this assembly. Do not glue
it in place at this time; it is easier to
permanently install after the fuselage has been
covered.
The next step will depend on which
method of attaching the wing is to be
employed. If the wing is to be permanently
installed, as shown on the plans sheet, all you
need to do is mark and cut out the sheeting on
each side of the fuselage, to accept the wing.
(The plywood template that was made to cut
out the wing ribs comes in handy for this, but
be sure to allow for the LE and sub-TE
portions.)
If you prefer a removable wing, carefully
cut and remove the upper portion of the
fuselage, aft from former F3 and directly
above the wing, down to the 1/8 square lateral
fuselage pieces that provide the proper wing
incidence.
After mounting the wing to the fuselage—
using either the rubber-band-and-dowel or
nylon-bolt method—trim the removed portion
of the fuselage to fit in its original position
(flush with the fuselage) and glue it in place
on top of the wing center-section.
Sand the nose block to the indicated
contour, and feather the fuselage sheeting
flush with the 1/8 fuselage longerons.
Cut the engine access and cooling opening
in the nose block. Fine-sand the entire
fuselage assembly.
Tail Surfaces: Construct all the tail surfaces,
primarily from 1/8 square balsa, directly over
the plans sheet.
Use two pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 balsa,
laminated to facilitate bending, on the
radiused portions of the vertical fin/rudder.
After construction, lightly block-sand all the
tail surfaces, radius all the perimeter edges,
and trial-fit the hinges.
Fashion the elevator coupler from a piece
of 1/16 dowel, such as the wood portion of an
ordinary cotton-tipped applicator. Cut the
horn portion from a small piece of 1/32
plywood.
My original model employed a fixed
rudder and the second model used an
operable rudder. Both fly fine, but the version
equipped with a controllable rudder is more
aerobatic and can be taxied.
Covering: Both of my E.Vs were covered
with Balsa Products’ Light Weight Tissue
made from polyester fiber. I selected the
Antique White color because it more closely
resembles the early World War I fabric
finishes that were used.
This heat-shrinkable tissue results in a far
more realistic finish than the glossy film-type
coverings. And although it is slightly porous,
it is water resistant.
Since this material does not have an
adhesive backing, you must apply a coat of
heat-activated adhesive, such as Balsaloc, to
all surface areas to which the tissue will be
attached. It can be sealed with a light coat of
dope, but that isn’t necessary.
The Light Weight Tissue weighs .673
ounce per square yard, compared to a filmtype
covering such as Solarfilm Lite (So-Lite)
that weighs .600 ounce per yard.
Another advantage of the polyester tissue
is that it is stronger and more puncture
resistant than film-type covering.
I covered all of the various subassembly
pieces before final assembly.
Final Assembly: If the wing is to be
permanently mounted, slide it (less ailerons
and torque rods) into place through the
openings that were cut in the fuselage. After
making sure the wing is properly aligned,
glue it in place.
Install the aileron torque rods into the
recesses that were cut into the wing sub-TE
and glue them in place. A small amount of
thicker-viscosity cyanoacrylate works well for
this because it is less likely to wick into the
torque-rod and bushing assembly.
(Applying a bit of oil to the bushing or
wax, sealing the ends of the bushing, before
applying the cyanoacrylate is additional
insurance that the torque rods will move freely
after they are permanently glued in place.)
The sequence I used for mounting the tail
surfaces was to position the elevator coupler
in place and connect it to the control rod and
elevator servo before sliding the stabilizer into
position. After you have properly aligned the
stabilizer, glue it in place and install the
elevators.
Install the vertical fin/rudder (fixed or
operable) and the tail-skid assembly.
I used 8-pound-test (black) monofilament
fishing line for the “pull-pull”-type ruddercontrol
cables.
To dress up my model a bit I installed a
pilot bust and a machine gun. The pilot was
made from hollowed-out rigid foam, and it
weighed .18 ounce. The .05-ounce machine
gun was fabricated from 1/16 balsa-sheet
scraps and a small piece of drafting Mylar.
I cut the black Maltese cross insignia from
black Major Decals water-transfer-decal sheet
material.
Radio and Power Details: I used an
Airtronics RD8000 transmitter with both of
my Pfalz E.Vs. I equipped the original model
with an Airtronics microreceiver (item
92515Z) and Super MicroLite servos (item
94091Z).
I equipped the subject of this article with a
GWS R4P Pico receiver and GWS Pico
servos. It was powered with a direct-drive
Lens (17-turn) brushless motor equipped with
a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 ESC and a
Great Planes ElectriFly two-cell 720 mAh Li-
Poly battery pack (item GPMP0810). I
installed a GWS 8 x 4 propeller (item
EP8040).
I obtained the indicated CG by positioning
the battery pack just forward of the CG point
shown. The control-surface travel limits were
set up according to the dimensions shown on
the plans sheet.
Ready to fly, my Pfalz E.V weighed 7.8
ounces. That produced a modest wing loading
of 4.35 ounces per square foot.
Flying: The E.V model shown was
constructed during what most RC modelers in
New England commonly refer to as “The
Building Season.” Nonaeromodeling area
residents simply refer to this time of year as
“January and February.”
As my age increases, so do the outside-airtemperature
minimums I consider to be
acceptable for RC flying. Long gone are the
days of flying in single-digit temperatures and
actually enjoying it, with the transmitter and
my hands encased in an insulated mitt!
Fortunately, RC indoor flying sessions
have been scheduled weekly in my area at a
relatively new sports facility that encompasses
three soccer fields. For local modelers these
indoor sessions have proven to be popular and
a welcome break from the monotony of what
seems to be unending cold, snowy, dreary
winter weather. With no numbing conditions
or wind to contend with, what better place to
test-fly the Pfalz?
As the system battery packs were fully
charged, the preflight check consisted of a
radio range check and a quick wiggle of the
sticks to ensure that all controls were
functioning properly. The takeoff was to be
made from flat artificial turf, which presented
an ideal opportunity to assess groundhandling
capabilities. I spent a few moments
just taxiing the E.V. In spite of being
equipped with a fixed tail skid, the model’s
ground handling was quite good.
I made a smooth takeoff by holding a bit
of right rudder and up-elevator while
gradually advancing the throttle. The takeoff
run was straight and surprisingly short, and it
was quickly apparent that the Lens directdrive
brushless motor was an ideal power
choice.
Several blips of down-elevator and one
blip of right aileron were the only things
needed to have the Pfalz flying nicely. Then I
spent several minutes just flying the model
around to assess its in-flight capabilities and
traits. Most of this flight time was used flying
at half to two-thirds throttle. At full throttle
the airplane will easily loop from straight and
level flight, and it is reasonably aerobatic.
Landing the E.V was easy and uneventful.
My initial test flight was seven to eight
minutes in duration, and there was still “time”
left in the 720 mAh battery pack. Subsequent
flights revealed that flights in the 12- to 14-
minute range were easy to attain with
judicious use of the throttle. The model flies
much like a trainer.
I have flown my E.V outdoors on many
occasions, with no mishaps. I have found it to
be a fun airplane to fly that will perform well
even in less than calm air conditions. Wind
conditions that allow any of the popular slow
park flyer designs to be used pose no problem
for the Pfalz.
Although this model can be flown in mildbreeze
conditions, it is an ideal fun-type
airplane for the calm air in which you can fly
it low and slow, only a foot or two above the
ground, with complete confidence.
If you are searching for a simple, lowcost,
electric-powered sport-scale building
project, I hope you find the Pfalz E.V to be
of interest. MA
Bob Wallace
[email protected]
Sources:
Water-Transfer Decals:
Major Decals
21 Fisher Ave.
East Longmeadow MA 01028
(413) 525-7465
www.majordecals.com
ESC:
Castle Creations
402 E. Pendleton Ave.
Wellsville KS 66092
(785) 883-4571
www.castlecreations.com
Todd’s Models
Box 827
Snoqualmie WA 98065
(425) 888-3201
www.toddsmodels.com/index.html
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34
HISTORY: The Pfalz Aircraft Company (Pfalz
Flugzeugwerke) was one of Germany’s first aircraft
manufacturers, but its designs were overshadowed throughout
World War I by the more famous designs of manufacturers
such as Fokker and Albatros. When World War I broke out,
Fokker and Pfalz were building and testing E-type fighter
designs that were essentially based on the successful French
Morane-Saulnier type H monoplane design.
The first E-type fighters to be used by the German Air
Service were Fokkers. Few Pfalz type E aircraft ever saw
frontline service because it was quickly determined that the
Fokker E-type monoplanes were clearly superior in almost all
performance aspects and greatly preferred by their pilots.
The Pfalz E types were also considered to be more
prone to in-flight structural failures. In August 1916 all
Pfalz E-type aircraft were ordered to be withdrawn
from service, and they were then used only for
cannibalizing for parts.
The Pfalz and Fokker type E designs were
so similar in appearance that Allied pilots
simply referred to them all as
“Fokkers”; thus the Pfalz E types
were even less recognized.
The main visual
difference between
the Fokker and Pfalz
E types was the shape of
the vertical fin/rudder; it
was rounded on the Fokkers
January 2007 29
In flight the Pfalz gives the appearance of being much larger
than it actually is. It’s a great first build for new modelers!
and squared off on the TE of the Pfalz.
The most distinguishing visual feature associated with the
E.V was its use of a Mercedes liquid-cooled, in-line engine
rather than the commonly used Oberursel rotary engine. The E.V
did offer improved flight performance, but it was still inferior to
the more favored Fokker E designs. A total of 20 E.Vs were
built, but only three were ever used in frontline air units.
Model Selection: I wanted to construct an easy-to-build and -fly,
electric-powered model that resembled a World War I fighter,
and I wanted to be able to fly it indoors and outside as a back
yard or park flyer.
I didn’t choose the Pfalz E.V as a modeling subject only
because it was a bit different and a little-known design. I also
picked it because it was powered by an in-line engine that
resulted in a fuselage with a longer nose-moment arm that I
hoped would produce a better-flying model. Another appealing
factor was a fuselage that was essentially rectangular in shape,
making it easier to fabricate.
The scale fidelity of the model shown in this article has been
stretched to the point where calling it “sport scale” with the
emphasis on “sport” is accurate. The full-scale E.V’s wing was
supported by a series of guy wires that were attached to top and
bottom fuselage-mounted pylons. Since my intent never was to
create an exact-scale model or to add much scale detailing, I used
no guy wires or fuselage-support pylons on the model.
Although I enlarged and slightly altered the E.V’s tail
surfaces and took other scaling liberties to improve flight
performance, I feel that the finished model retains a reasonable
resemblance to the full-scale aircraft. In addition, this
construction job uses materials that are readily available in any
reasonably well-stocked hobby shop.
CONSTRUCTION
As with any model-building project, it is easier to cut out or
fabricate the shaped parts before starting the construction
process. The cut or shaped parts needed to make the Pfalz E.V
consist of the wing and aileron ribs, the motor-mount bulkhead,
and the three fuselage top formers.
Making a wing-rib cutting template from 1/32 or 1/16 plywood
speeds the rib-cutting process along. Rather than cut each aileron
rib individually, I cut a piece of 1/8 balsa sheet (cross-grain) 3/4
inch long and block-sanded it to a feathered edge on one end.
Then I could rapidly trim off each aileron rib using a Master
Airscrew balsa stripper. This method was much easier.
The exact position of the motor-mounting bulkhead will be
determined by the type of motor unit you use. My prototype
model employed a GWS IPS A geared unit with a Feigao
brushless motor instead of the supplied power plant. My second
model (shown in the various construction photographs
accompanying this article) employed a Lens RC spindle-type,
direct-drive, brushless motor.
The original model, equipped with the GWS geared-motor
unit, was powered by a two-cell 340 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.
The second model, equipped with the Lens direct-drive brushless
motor, used a larger, two-cell 720 mAh pack.
Since the E.V’s construction is not overly difficult or
complicated, I will not present the following in a step-by-step,
place-tab-“A”-in-slot-“B”-on-part-“C” format. The wing panels,
fuselage, and tail surfaces—which are all of open-structure,
built-up contest-grade-balsa construction—are made directly
over the plans sheet. Be sure to cover the plans sheet with waxed
paper or clear plastic to facilitate easy removal of the various
subassemblies.
Wing: Construct each wing panel by pinning the lower 1/8 x 1/4
main spar, ribs, 3/16 x 3/8 LE, and 3/16 x 5/16 sub-TE in place along
with the 3/16 x 1/4 square tip pieces. Once everything is properly
aligned, glue the structure together using thin-viscosity
cyanoacrylate.
Glue the two upper 1/8 square spars in place along with the
angled tip piece at the end of the upper main spar.
Construct each aileron over the plans. Pin the lower 1/16 sheet
in place along with the 1/8 square aileron LE piece, all the aileron
ribs, and the tapered 1/8 sheet filler piece that supports the aileron
torque rod. Glue this assembly together with cyanoacrylate. Glue
the aileron top 1/16 sheet in place.
To join the two wing panels, block-sand the proper dihedral
angle on the protruding spars, LE, and sub-TE. On a flat surface
pin one wing panel flat and block up the other panel so that there
is an inch of dihedral measured underneath the outermost wing
rib. Apply cyanoacrylate to the spars, LE, and sub-TE butt
joints.
Remove the wing and install the various balsa-sheet centersection
dihedral braces and servo-mounting rails. Finish-sand the
wing and ailerons to the indicated airfoil contours.
Trial-fit the aileron hinges and torque rods in place, but do
not glue them.
(The plans sheet shows a permanently mounted wing. That is
the way I built both of my E.Vs since they are relatively small
models. Others may prefer to use a removable wing for more
compact storage and transportability. This is certainly a viable
option, using the conventional rubber-band-and-dowels method
or small nylon bolts. If you pick one of
these alternative wing-mounting methods,
you will have to modify the wing centersection
accordingly.)
Fuselage: The two basic fuselage sides,
which are indicated with shading, are
constructed directly over the plans sheet
using 1/8 square balsa. A vertical piece of
1/16 x 1/8 balsa is to be used where the
fuselage side sheeting ends.
The 1/8 square balsa vertical uprights that
support the motor-mounting bulkhead should
be positioned fore or aft, according to the
motor unit that will be used. The bottom of
the motor-mounting bulkhead will have to be
trimmed or lengthened accordingly.
Glue the 1/16 fuselage side sheeting in
place over the basic fuselage side structures,
as well as the 1/16 sheeting that is inlaid flush
with the side structure at the tail. Ensure that
you make a left- and right-hand side!
Measure and cut the 1/8-inch slots in the tail
sheeting on each fuselage side to accept the
stabilizer.
After sanding the fuselage side sheeting
flush with the outer edges of the basic side
structure, pin both fuselage sides in place
(bottom side up) along the forward flat
portion of each side, over the fuselage top
view on the plans sheet.
Glue the various 1/8 square crosspieces in
place (top and bottom), ensuring that the
fuselage sides are square to the building
surface and that the fuselage curvature
matches the plans sheet.
Remove the fuselage structure from the
building board and glue the motor-mounting
bulkhead and 1/8 poplar plywood landinggear-
mounting blocks in place. The poplar
plywood landing-gear blocks should be
slotted to accept the landing-gear-assembly
upper crossmembers.
Inlay 1/16 sheeting flush with the top and
bottom in the exterior surfaces of the
fuselage at the tail.
Fabricate the landing-gear structure using
two pieces of .047 (3/64-inch-diameter) music
wire. The landing-gear axle is a straight 53/4-
inch-long piece of wire.
Mount the landing-gear
assembly in place. I
drilled small holes
in each poplar
plywood block and
used button thread for this
purpose, and I applied
cyanoacrylate to each wrapped
attachment point.
Glue the 1/16 bottom sheeting
pieces in place, cross-grain, and fabricate
the bottom access hatch. Glue formers
The left wing panel takes shape over the plans. This wing is simple to construct
accurately on a flat building board because of the flat-bottom airfoil.
The two fuselage sides are built over the plans, as shown. The construction is light but
also extremely strong.
The fuselage sides and tail assembly pieces are quickly produced and are ready for
assembly. There’s nothing here to fear when building.
January 2007 31
Two pieces of .047 music wire are used to make the landinggear
system. The axle is a straight piece of wire that measures
53/4 inches long.
Above: Lens RC brushless motor
equipped with Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 ESC and motor-mounting
bulkhead with motor mount.
Mount the landing-gear assembly in place by drilling small holes in
each poplar plywood block and using button thread to lash it in
place. Apply cyanoacrylate to each wrapped attachment point.
Left: It’s almost a shame to cover
woodwork this pretty! Note the pilot
figure and simulated machine gun. The
details make the difference!
Pfalz E.V
Type: Sport scale
Ready-to-fly weight: 7.8 ounces
Wingspan: 39.75 inches
Wing area: 258 square inches
Recommended motor: Small outrunner
type (direct drive), brushless
Control functions: Rudder,
elevator, ailerons, throttle
Elevator throws: 1/2
inch up and down
Aileron throws: 1/4 inch up and down
Rudder throws: 7/8 inch left and right
Side thrust: 0°
Downthrust/upthrust: 0°
Incidence: Stabilizer, 0º; wing, 2º
(built in)
Construction: Balsa and poplar
plywood
Covering/finish: Balsa Products
Light Weight Tissue (polyester)
Photos by the author
32 MODEL AVIATION
There’s ample room in the Pfalz’s fuselage for the microservos that are used. Notice the
neat pushrod attachments. This is clean work!
In this view of the tail area you can see the tail-skid detail and some of the graphics that
lend to the model’s scale appearance.
F1, F2, and F3 in place along with the top
sheeting from F3 aft. Install the forward top
sheeting over the formers. Glue the 1/4 sheet
nose block in place.
Fabricate the 1/8 square basswood tail skid
and .032 (1/32-inch-diameter) music-wire
brace, and trial-fit this assembly. Do not glue
it in place at this time; it is easier to
permanently install after the fuselage has been
covered.
The next step will depend on which
method of attaching the wing is to be
employed. If the wing is to be permanently
installed, as shown on the plans sheet, all you
need to do is mark and cut out the sheeting on
each side of the fuselage, to accept the wing.
(The plywood template that was made to cut
out the wing ribs comes in handy for this, but
be sure to allow for the LE and sub-TE
portions.)
If you prefer a removable wing, carefully
cut and remove the upper portion of the
fuselage, aft from former F3 and directly
above the wing, down to the 1/8 square lateral
fuselage pieces that provide the proper wing
incidence.
After mounting the wing to the fuselage—
using either the rubber-band-and-dowel or
nylon-bolt method—trim the removed portion
of the fuselage to fit in its original position
(flush with the fuselage) and glue it in place
on top of the wing center-section.
Sand the nose block to the indicated
contour, and feather the fuselage sheeting
flush with the 1/8 fuselage longerons.
Cut the engine access and cooling opening
in the nose block. Fine-sand the entire
fuselage assembly.
Tail Surfaces: Construct all the tail surfaces,
primarily from 1/8 square balsa, directly over
the plans sheet.
Use two pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 balsa,
laminated to facilitate bending, on the
radiused portions of the vertical fin/rudder.
After construction, lightly block-sand all the
tail surfaces, radius all the perimeter edges,
and trial-fit the hinges.
Fashion the elevator coupler from a piece
of 1/16 dowel, such as the wood portion of an
ordinary cotton-tipped applicator. Cut the
horn portion from a small piece of 1/32
plywood.
My original model employed a fixed
rudder and the second model used an
operable rudder. Both fly fine, but the version
equipped with a controllable rudder is more
aerobatic and can be taxied.
Covering: Both of my E.Vs were covered
with Balsa Products’ Light Weight Tissue
made from polyester fiber. I selected the
Antique White color because it more closely
resembles the early World War I fabric
finishes that were used.
This heat-shrinkable tissue results in a far
more realistic finish than the glossy film-type
coverings. And although it is slightly porous,
it is water resistant.
Since this material does not have an
adhesive backing, you must apply a coat of
heat-activated adhesive, such as Balsaloc, to
all surface areas to which the tissue will be
attached. It can be sealed with a light coat of
dope, but that isn’t necessary.
The Light Weight Tissue weighs .673
ounce per square yard, compared to a filmtype
covering such as Solarfilm Lite (So-Lite)
that weighs .600 ounce per yard.
Another advantage of the polyester tissue
is that it is stronger and more puncture
resistant than film-type covering.
I covered all of the various subassembly
pieces before final assembly.
Final Assembly: If the wing is to be
permanently mounted, slide it (less ailerons
and torque rods) into place through the
openings that were cut in the fuselage. After
making sure the wing is properly aligned,
glue it in place.
Install the aileron torque rods into the
recesses that were cut into the wing sub-TE
and glue them in place. A small amount of
thicker-viscosity cyanoacrylate works well for
this because it is less likely to wick into the
torque-rod and bushing assembly.
(Applying a bit of oil to the bushing or
wax, sealing the ends of the bushing, before
applying the cyanoacrylate is additional
insurance that the torque rods will move freely
after they are permanently glued in place.)
The sequence I used for mounting the tail
surfaces was to position the elevator coupler
in place and connect it to the control rod and
elevator servo before sliding the stabilizer into
position. After you have properly aligned the
stabilizer, glue it in place and install the
elevators.
Install the vertical fin/rudder (fixed or
operable) and the tail-skid assembly.
I used 8-pound-test (black) monofilament
fishing line for the “pull-pull”-type ruddercontrol
cables.
To dress up my model a bit I installed a
pilot bust and a machine gun. The pilot was
made from hollowed-out rigid foam, and it
weighed .18 ounce. The .05-ounce machine
gun was fabricated from 1/16 balsa-sheet
scraps and a small piece of drafting Mylar.
I cut the black Maltese cross insignia from
black Major Decals water-transfer-decal sheet
material.
Radio and Power Details: I used an
Airtronics RD8000 transmitter with both of
my Pfalz E.Vs. I equipped the original model
with an Airtronics microreceiver (item
92515Z) and Super MicroLite servos (item
94091Z).
I equipped the subject of this article with a
GWS R4P Pico receiver and GWS Pico
servos. It was powered with a direct-drive
Lens (17-turn) brushless motor equipped with
a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 ESC and a
Great Planes ElectriFly two-cell 720 mAh Li-
Poly battery pack (item GPMP0810). I
installed a GWS 8 x 4 propeller (item
EP8040).
I obtained the indicated CG by positioning
the battery pack just forward of the CG point
shown. The control-surface travel limits were
set up according to the dimensions shown on
the plans sheet.
Ready to fly, my Pfalz E.V weighed 7.8
ounces. That produced a modest wing loading
of 4.35 ounces per square foot.
Flying: The E.V model shown was
constructed during what most RC modelers in
New England commonly refer to as “The
Building Season.” Nonaeromodeling area
residents simply refer to this time of year as
“January and February.”
As my age increases, so do the outside-airtemperature
minimums I consider to be
acceptable for RC flying. Long gone are the
days of flying in single-digit temperatures and
actually enjoying it, with the transmitter and
my hands encased in an insulated mitt!
Fortunately, RC indoor flying sessions
have been scheduled weekly in my area at a
relatively new sports facility that encompasses
three soccer fields. For local modelers these
indoor sessions have proven to be popular and
a welcome break from the monotony of what
seems to be unending cold, snowy, dreary
winter weather. With no numbing conditions
or wind to contend with, what better place to
test-fly the Pfalz?
As the system battery packs were fully
charged, the preflight check consisted of a
radio range check and a quick wiggle of the
sticks to ensure that all controls were
functioning properly. The takeoff was to be
made from flat artificial turf, which presented
an ideal opportunity to assess groundhandling
capabilities. I spent a few moments
just taxiing the E.V. In spite of being
equipped with a fixed tail skid, the model’s
ground handling was quite good.
I made a smooth takeoff by holding a bit
of right rudder and up-elevator while
gradually advancing the throttle. The takeoff
run was straight and surprisingly short, and it
was quickly apparent that the Lens directdrive
brushless motor was an ideal power
choice.
Several blips of down-elevator and one
blip of right aileron were the only things
needed to have the Pfalz flying nicely. Then I
spent several minutes just flying the model
around to assess its in-flight capabilities and
traits. Most of this flight time was used flying
at half to two-thirds throttle. At full throttle
the airplane will easily loop from straight and
level flight, and it is reasonably aerobatic.
Landing the E.V was easy and uneventful.
My initial test flight was seven to eight
minutes in duration, and there was still “time”
left in the 720 mAh battery pack. Subsequent
flights revealed that flights in the 12- to 14-
minute range were easy to attain with
judicious use of the throttle. The model flies
much like a trainer.
I have flown my E.V outdoors on many
occasions, with no mishaps. I have found it to
be a fun airplane to fly that will perform well
even in less than calm air conditions. Wind
conditions that allow any of the popular slow
park flyer designs to be used pose no problem
for the Pfalz.
Although this model can be flown in mildbreeze
conditions, it is an ideal fun-type
airplane for the calm air in which you can fly
it low and slow, only a foot or two above the
ground, with complete confidence.
If you are searching for a simple, lowcost,
electric-powered sport-scale building
project, I hope you find the Pfalz E.V to be
of interest. MA
Bob Wallace
[email protected]
Sources:
Water-Transfer Decals:
Major Decals
21 Fisher Ave.
East Longmeadow MA 01028
(413) 525-7465
www.majordecals.com
ESC:
Castle Creations
402 E. Pendleton Ave.
Wellsville KS 66092
(785) 883-4571
www.castlecreations.com
Todd’s Models
Box 827
Snoqualmie WA 98065
(425) 888-3201
www.toddsmodels.com/index.html
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34
HISTORY: The Pfalz Aircraft Company (Pfalz
Flugzeugwerke) was one of Germany’s first aircraft
manufacturers, but its designs were overshadowed throughout
World War I by the more famous designs of manufacturers
such as Fokker and Albatros. When World War I broke out,
Fokker and Pfalz were building and testing E-type fighter
designs that were essentially based on the successful French
Morane-Saulnier type H monoplane design.
The first E-type fighters to be used by the German Air
Service were Fokkers. Few Pfalz type E aircraft ever saw
frontline service because it was quickly determined that the
Fokker E-type monoplanes were clearly superior in almost all
performance aspects and greatly preferred by their pilots.
The Pfalz E types were also considered to be more
prone to in-flight structural failures. In August 1916 all
Pfalz E-type aircraft were ordered to be withdrawn
from service, and they were then used only for
cannibalizing for parts.
The Pfalz and Fokker type E designs were
so similar in appearance that Allied pilots
simply referred to them all as
“Fokkers”; thus the Pfalz E types
were even less recognized.
The main visual
difference between
the Fokker and Pfalz
E types was the shape of
the vertical fin/rudder; it
was rounded on the Fokkers
January 2007 29
In flight the Pfalz gives the appearance of being much larger
than it actually is. It’s a great first build for new modelers!
and squared off on the TE of the Pfalz.
The most distinguishing visual feature associated with the
E.V was its use of a Mercedes liquid-cooled, in-line engine
rather than the commonly used Oberursel rotary engine. The E.V
did offer improved flight performance, but it was still inferior to
the more favored Fokker E designs. A total of 20 E.Vs were
built, but only three were ever used in frontline air units.
Model Selection: I wanted to construct an easy-to-build and -fly,
electric-powered model that resembled a World War I fighter,
and I wanted to be able to fly it indoors and outside as a back
yard or park flyer.
I didn’t choose the Pfalz E.V as a modeling subject only
because it was a bit different and a little-known design. I also
picked it because it was powered by an in-line engine that
resulted in a fuselage with a longer nose-moment arm that I
hoped would produce a better-flying model. Another appealing
factor was a fuselage that was essentially rectangular in shape,
making it easier to fabricate.
The scale fidelity of the model shown in this article has been
stretched to the point where calling it “sport scale” with the
emphasis on “sport” is accurate. The full-scale E.V’s wing was
supported by a series of guy wires that were attached to top and
bottom fuselage-mounted pylons. Since my intent never was to
create an exact-scale model or to add much scale detailing, I used
no guy wires or fuselage-support pylons on the model.
Although I enlarged and slightly altered the E.V’s tail
surfaces and took other scaling liberties to improve flight
performance, I feel that the finished model retains a reasonable
resemblance to the full-scale aircraft. In addition, this
construction job uses materials that are readily available in any
reasonably well-stocked hobby shop.
CONSTRUCTION
As with any model-building project, it is easier to cut out or
fabricate the shaped parts before starting the construction
process. The cut or shaped parts needed to make the Pfalz E.V
consist of the wing and aileron ribs, the motor-mount bulkhead,
and the three fuselage top formers.
Making a wing-rib cutting template from 1/32 or 1/16 plywood
speeds the rib-cutting process along. Rather than cut each aileron
rib individually, I cut a piece of 1/8 balsa sheet (cross-grain) 3/4
inch long and block-sanded it to a feathered edge on one end.
Then I could rapidly trim off each aileron rib using a Master
Airscrew balsa stripper. This method was much easier.
The exact position of the motor-mounting bulkhead will be
determined by the type of motor unit you use. My prototype
model employed a GWS IPS A geared unit with a Feigao
brushless motor instead of the supplied power plant. My second
model (shown in the various construction photographs
accompanying this article) employed a Lens RC spindle-type,
direct-drive, brushless motor.
The original model, equipped with the GWS geared-motor
unit, was powered by a two-cell 340 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.
The second model, equipped with the Lens direct-drive brushless
motor, used a larger, two-cell 720 mAh pack.
Since the E.V’s construction is not overly difficult or
complicated, I will not present the following in a step-by-step,
place-tab-“A”-in-slot-“B”-on-part-“C” format. The wing panels,
fuselage, and tail surfaces—which are all of open-structure,
built-up contest-grade-balsa construction—are made directly
over the plans sheet. Be sure to cover the plans sheet with waxed
paper or clear plastic to facilitate easy removal of the various
subassemblies.
Wing: Construct each wing panel by pinning the lower 1/8 x 1/4
main spar, ribs, 3/16 x 3/8 LE, and 3/16 x 5/16 sub-TE in place along
with the 3/16 x 1/4 square tip pieces. Once everything is properly
aligned, glue the structure together using thin-viscosity
cyanoacrylate.
Glue the two upper 1/8 square spars in place along with the
angled tip piece at the end of the upper main spar.
Construct each aileron over the plans. Pin the lower 1/16 sheet
in place along with the 1/8 square aileron LE piece, all the aileron
ribs, and the tapered 1/8 sheet filler piece that supports the aileron
torque rod. Glue this assembly together with cyanoacrylate. Glue
the aileron top 1/16 sheet in place.
To join the two wing panels, block-sand the proper dihedral
angle on the protruding spars, LE, and sub-TE. On a flat surface
pin one wing panel flat and block up the other panel so that there
is an inch of dihedral measured underneath the outermost wing
rib. Apply cyanoacrylate to the spars, LE, and sub-TE butt
joints.
Remove the wing and install the various balsa-sheet centersection
dihedral braces and servo-mounting rails. Finish-sand the
wing and ailerons to the indicated airfoil contours.
Trial-fit the aileron hinges and torque rods in place, but do
not glue them.
(The plans sheet shows a permanently mounted wing. That is
the way I built both of my E.Vs since they are relatively small
models. Others may prefer to use a removable wing for more
compact storage and transportability. This is certainly a viable
option, using the conventional rubber-band-and-dowels method
or small nylon bolts. If you pick one of
these alternative wing-mounting methods,
you will have to modify the wing centersection
accordingly.)
Fuselage: The two basic fuselage sides,
which are indicated with shading, are
constructed directly over the plans sheet
using 1/8 square balsa. A vertical piece of
1/16 x 1/8 balsa is to be used where the
fuselage side sheeting ends.
The 1/8 square balsa vertical uprights that
support the motor-mounting bulkhead should
be positioned fore or aft, according to the
motor unit that will be used. The bottom of
the motor-mounting bulkhead will have to be
trimmed or lengthened accordingly.
Glue the 1/16 fuselage side sheeting in
place over the basic fuselage side structures,
as well as the 1/16 sheeting that is inlaid flush
with the side structure at the tail. Ensure that
you make a left- and right-hand side!
Measure and cut the 1/8-inch slots in the tail
sheeting on each fuselage side to accept the
stabilizer.
After sanding the fuselage side sheeting
flush with the outer edges of the basic side
structure, pin both fuselage sides in place
(bottom side up) along the forward flat
portion of each side, over the fuselage top
view on the plans sheet.
Glue the various 1/8 square crosspieces in
place (top and bottom), ensuring that the
fuselage sides are square to the building
surface and that the fuselage curvature
matches the plans sheet.
Remove the fuselage structure from the
building board and glue the motor-mounting
bulkhead and 1/8 poplar plywood landinggear-
mounting blocks in place. The poplar
plywood landing-gear blocks should be
slotted to accept the landing-gear-assembly
upper crossmembers.
Inlay 1/16 sheeting flush with the top and
bottom in the exterior surfaces of the
fuselage at the tail.
Fabricate the landing-gear structure using
two pieces of .047 (3/64-inch-diameter) music
wire. The landing-gear axle is a straight 53/4-
inch-long piece of wire.
Mount the landing-gear
assembly in place. I
drilled small holes
in each poplar
plywood block and
used button thread for this
purpose, and I applied
cyanoacrylate to each wrapped
attachment point.
Glue the 1/16 bottom sheeting
pieces in place, cross-grain, and fabricate
the bottom access hatch. Glue formers
The left wing panel takes shape over the plans. This wing is simple to construct
accurately on a flat building board because of the flat-bottom airfoil.
The two fuselage sides are built over the plans, as shown. The construction is light but
also extremely strong.
The fuselage sides and tail assembly pieces are quickly produced and are ready for
assembly. There’s nothing here to fear when building.
January 2007 31
Two pieces of .047 music wire are used to make the landinggear
system. The axle is a straight piece of wire that measures
53/4 inches long.
Above: Lens RC brushless motor
equipped with Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 ESC and motor-mounting
bulkhead with motor mount.
Mount the landing-gear assembly in place by drilling small holes in
each poplar plywood block and using button thread to lash it in
place. Apply cyanoacrylate to each wrapped attachment point.
Left: It’s almost a shame to cover
woodwork this pretty! Note the pilot
figure and simulated machine gun. The
details make the difference!
Pfalz E.V
Type: Sport scale
Ready-to-fly weight: 7.8 ounces
Wingspan: 39.75 inches
Wing area: 258 square inches
Recommended motor: Small outrunner
type (direct drive), brushless
Control functions: Rudder,
elevator, ailerons, throttle
Elevator throws: 1/2
inch up and down
Aileron throws: 1/4 inch up and down
Rudder throws: 7/8 inch left and right
Side thrust: 0°
Downthrust/upthrust: 0°
Incidence: Stabilizer, 0º; wing, 2º
(built in)
Construction: Balsa and poplar
plywood
Covering/finish: Balsa Products
Light Weight Tissue (polyester)
Photos by the author
32 MODEL AVIATION
There’s ample room in the Pfalz’s fuselage for the microservos that are used. Notice the
neat pushrod attachments. This is clean work!
In this view of the tail area you can see the tail-skid detail and some of the graphics that
lend to the model’s scale appearance.
F1, F2, and F3 in place along with the top
sheeting from F3 aft. Install the forward top
sheeting over the formers. Glue the 1/4 sheet
nose block in place.
Fabricate the 1/8 square basswood tail skid
and .032 (1/32-inch-diameter) music-wire
brace, and trial-fit this assembly. Do not glue
it in place at this time; it is easier to
permanently install after the fuselage has been
covered.
The next step will depend on which
method of attaching the wing is to be
employed. If the wing is to be permanently
installed, as shown on the plans sheet, all you
need to do is mark and cut out the sheeting on
each side of the fuselage, to accept the wing.
(The plywood template that was made to cut
out the wing ribs comes in handy for this, but
be sure to allow for the LE and sub-TE
portions.)
If you prefer a removable wing, carefully
cut and remove the upper portion of the
fuselage, aft from former F3 and directly
above the wing, down to the 1/8 square lateral
fuselage pieces that provide the proper wing
incidence.
After mounting the wing to the fuselage—
using either the rubber-band-and-dowel or
nylon-bolt method—trim the removed portion
of the fuselage to fit in its original position
(flush with the fuselage) and glue it in place
on top of the wing center-section.
Sand the nose block to the indicated
contour, and feather the fuselage sheeting
flush with the 1/8 fuselage longerons.
Cut the engine access and cooling opening
in the nose block. Fine-sand the entire
fuselage assembly.
Tail Surfaces: Construct all the tail surfaces,
primarily from 1/8 square balsa, directly over
the plans sheet.
Use two pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 balsa,
laminated to facilitate bending, on the
radiused portions of the vertical fin/rudder.
After construction, lightly block-sand all the
tail surfaces, radius all the perimeter edges,
and trial-fit the hinges.
Fashion the elevator coupler from a piece
of 1/16 dowel, such as the wood portion of an
ordinary cotton-tipped applicator. Cut the
horn portion from a small piece of 1/32
plywood.
My original model employed a fixed
rudder and the second model used an
operable rudder. Both fly fine, but the version
equipped with a controllable rudder is more
aerobatic and can be taxied.
Covering: Both of my E.Vs were covered
with Balsa Products’ Light Weight Tissue
made from polyester fiber. I selected the
Antique White color because it more closely
resembles the early World War I fabric
finishes that were used.
This heat-shrinkable tissue results in a far
more realistic finish than the glossy film-type
coverings. And although it is slightly porous,
it is water resistant.
Since this material does not have an
adhesive backing, you must apply a coat of
heat-activated adhesive, such as Balsaloc, to
all surface areas to which the tissue will be
attached. It can be sealed with a light coat of
dope, but that isn’t necessary.
The Light Weight Tissue weighs .673
ounce per square yard, compared to a filmtype
covering such as Solarfilm Lite (So-Lite)
that weighs .600 ounce per yard.
Another advantage of the polyester tissue
is that it is stronger and more puncture
resistant than film-type covering.
I covered all of the various subassembly
pieces before final assembly.
Final Assembly: If the wing is to be
permanently mounted, slide it (less ailerons
and torque rods) into place through the
openings that were cut in the fuselage. After
making sure the wing is properly aligned,
glue it in place.
Install the aileron torque rods into the
recesses that were cut into the wing sub-TE
and glue them in place. A small amount of
thicker-viscosity cyanoacrylate works well for
this because it is less likely to wick into the
torque-rod and bushing assembly.
(Applying a bit of oil to the bushing or
wax, sealing the ends of the bushing, before
applying the cyanoacrylate is additional
insurance that the torque rods will move freely
after they are permanently glued in place.)
The sequence I used for mounting the tail
surfaces was to position the elevator coupler
in place and connect it to the control rod and
elevator servo before sliding the stabilizer into
position. After you have properly aligned the
stabilizer, glue it in place and install the
elevators.
Install the vertical fin/rudder (fixed or
operable) and the tail-skid assembly.
I used 8-pound-test (black) monofilament
fishing line for the “pull-pull”-type ruddercontrol
cables.
To dress up my model a bit I installed a
pilot bust and a machine gun. The pilot was
made from hollowed-out rigid foam, and it
weighed .18 ounce. The .05-ounce machine
gun was fabricated from 1/16 balsa-sheet
scraps and a small piece of drafting Mylar.
I cut the black Maltese cross insignia from
black Major Decals water-transfer-decal sheet
material.
Radio and Power Details: I used an
Airtronics RD8000 transmitter with both of
my Pfalz E.Vs. I equipped the original model
with an Airtronics microreceiver (item
92515Z) and Super MicroLite servos (item
94091Z).
I equipped the subject of this article with a
GWS R4P Pico receiver and GWS Pico
servos. It was powered with a direct-drive
Lens (17-turn) brushless motor equipped with
a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 ESC and a
Great Planes ElectriFly two-cell 720 mAh Li-
Poly battery pack (item GPMP0810). I
installed a GWS 8 x 4 propeller (item
EP8040).
I obtained the indicated CG by positioning
the battery pack just forward of the CG point
shown. The control-surface travel limits were
set up according to the dimensions shown on
the plans sheet.
Ready to fly, my Pfalz E.V weighed 7.8
ounces. That produced a modest wing loading
of 4.35 ounces per square foot.
Flying: The E.V model shown was
constructed during what most RC modelers in
New England commonly refer to as “The
Building Season.” Nonaeromodeling area
residents simply refer to this time of year as
“January and February.”
As my age increases, so do the outside-airtemperature
minimums I consider to be
acceptable for RC flying. Long gone are the
days of flying in single-digit temperatures and
actually enjoying it, with the transmitter and
my hands encased in an insulated mitt!
Fortunately, RC indoor flying sessions
have been scheduled weekly in my area at a
relatively new sports facility that encompasses
three soccer fields. For local modelers these
indoor sessions have proven to be popular and
a welcome break from the monotony of what
seems to be unending cold, snowy, dreary
winter weather. With no numbing conditions
or wind to contend with, what better place to
test-fly the Pfalz?
As the system battery packs were fully
charged, the preflight check consisted of a
radio range check and a quick wiggle of the
sticks to ensure that all controls were
functioning properly. The takeoff was to be
made from flat artificial turf, which presented
an ideal opportunity to assess groundhandling
capabilities. I spent a few moments
just taxiing the E.V. In spite of being
equipped with a fixed tail skid, the model’s
ground handling was quite good.
I made a smooth takeoff by holding a bit
of right rudder and up-elevator while
gradually advancing the throttle. The takeoff
run was straight and surprisingly short, and it
was quickly apparent that the Lens directdrive
brushless motor was an ideal power
choice.
Several blips of down-elevator and one
blip of right aileron were the only things
needed to have the Pfalz flying nicely. Then I
spent several minutes just flying the model
around to assess its in-flight capabilities and
traits. Most of this flight time was used flying
at half to two-thirds throttle. At full throttle
the airplane will easily loop from straight and
level flight, and it is reasonably aerobatic.
Landing the E.V was easy and uneventful.
My initial test flight was seven to eight
minutes in duration, and there was still “time”
left in the 720 mAh battery pack. Subsequent
flights revealed that flights in the 12- to 14-
minute range were easy to attain with
judicious use of the throttle. The model flies
much like a trainer.
I have flown my E.V outdoors on many
occasions, with no mishaps. I have found it to
be a fun airplane to fly that will perform well
even in less than calm air conditions. Wind
conditions that allow any of the popular slow
park flyer designs to be used pose no problem
for the Pfalz.
Although this model can be flown in mildbreeze
conditions, it is an ideal fun-type
airplane for the calm air in which you can fly
it low and slow, only a foot or two above the
ground, with complete confidence.
If you are searching for a simple, lowcost,
electric-powered sport-scale building
project, I hope you find the Pfalz E.V to be
of interest. MA
Bob Wallace
[email protected]
Sources:
Water-Transfer Decals:
Major Decals
21 Fisher Ave.
East Longmeadow MA 01028
(413) 525-7465
www.majordecals.com
ESC:
Castle Creations
402 E. Pendleton Ave.
Wellsville KS 66092
(785) 883-4571
www.castlecreations.com
Todd’s Models
Box 827
Snoqualmie WA 98065
(425) 888-3201
www.toddsmodels.com/index.html
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34
HISTORY: The Pfalz Aircraft Company (Pfalz
Flugzeugwerke) was one of Germany’s first aircraft
manufacturers, but its designs were overshadowed throughout
World War I by the more famous designs of manufacturers
such as Fokker and Albatros. When World War I broke out,
Fokker and Pfalz were building and testing E-type fighter
designs that were essentially based on the successful French
Morane-Saulnier type H monoplane design.
The first E-type fighters to be used by the German Air
Service were Fokkers. Few Pfalz type E aircraft ever saw
frontline service because it was quickly determined that the
Fokker E-type monoplanes were clearly superior in almost all
performance aspects and greatly preferred by their pilots.
The Pfalz E types were also considered to be more
prone to in-flight structural failures. In August 1916 all
Pfalz E-type aircraft were ordered to be withdrawn
from service, and they were then used only for
cannibalizing for parts.
The Pfalz and Fokker type E designs were
so similar in appearance that Allied pilots
simply referred to them all as
“Fokkers”; thus the Pfalz E types
were even less recognized.
The main visual
difference between
the Fokker and Pfalz
E types was the shape of
the vertical fin/rudder; it
was rounded on the Fokkers
January 2007 29
In flight the Pfalz gives the appearance of being much larger
than it actually is. It’s a great first build for new modelers!
and squared off on the TE of the Pfalz.
The most distinguishing visual feature associated with the
E.V was its use of a Mercedes liquid-cooled, in-line engine
rather than the commonly used Oberursel rotary engine. The E.V
did offer improved flight performance, but it was still inferior to
the more favored Fokker E designs. A total of 20 E.Vs were
built, but only three were ever used in frontline air units.
Model Selection: I wanted to construct an easy-to-build and -fly,
electric-powered model that resembled a World War I fighter,
and I wanted to be able to fly it indoors and outside as a back
yard or park flyer.
I didn’t choose the Pfalz E.V as a modeling subject only
because it was a bit different and a little-known design. I also
picked it because it was powered by an in-line engine that
resulted in a fuselage with a longer nose-moment arm that I
hoped would produce a better-flying model. Another appealing
factor was a fuselage that was essentially rectangular in shape,
making it easier to fabricate.
The scale fidelity of the model shown in this article has been
stretched to the point where calling it “sport scale” with the
emphasis on “sport” is accurate. The full-scale E.V’s wing was
supported by a series of guy wires that were attached to top and
bottom fuselage-mounted pylons. Since my intent never was to
create an exact-scale model or to add much scale detailing, I used
no guy wires or fuselage-support pylons on the model.
Although I enlarged and slightly altered the E.V’s tail
surfaces and took other scaling liberties to improve flight
performance, I feel that the finished model retains a reasonable
resemblance to the full-scale aircraft. In addition, this
construction job uses materials that are readily available in any
reasonably well-stocked hobby shop.
CONSTRUCTION
As with any model-building project, it is easier to cut out or
fabricate the shaped parts before starting the construction
process. The cut or shaped parts needed to make the Pfalz E.V
consist of the wing and aileron ribs, the motor-mount bulkhead,
and the three fuselage top formers.
Making a wing-rib cutting template from 1/32 or 1/16 plywood
speeds the rib-cutting process along. Rather than cut each aileron
rib individually, I cut a piece of 1/8 balsa sheet (cross-grain) 3/4
inch long and block-sanded it to a feathered edge on one end.
Then I could rapidly trim off each aileron rib using a Master
Airscrew balsa stripper. This method was much easier.
The exact position of the motor-mounting bulkhead will be
determined by the type of motor unit you use. My prototype
model employed a GWS IPS A geared unit with a Feigao
brushless motor instead of the supplied power plant. My second
model (shown in the various construction photographs
accompanying this article) employed a Lens RC spindle-type,
direct-drive, brushless motor.
The original model, equipped with the GWS geared-motor
unit, was powered by a two-cell 340 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.
The second model, equipped with the Lens direct-drive brushless
motor, used a larger, two-cell 720 mAh pack.
Since the E.V’s construction is not overly difficult or
complicated, I will not present the following in a step-by-step,
place-tab-“A”-in-slot-“B”-on-part-“C” format. The wing panels,
fuselage, and tail surfaces—which are all of open-structure,
built-up contest-grade-balsa construction—are made directly
over the plans sheet. Be sure to cover the plans sheet with waxed
paper or clear plastic to facilitate easy removal of the various
subassemblies.
Wing: Construct each wing panel by pinning the lower 1/8 x 1/4
main spar, ribs, 3/16 x 3/8 LE, and 3/16 x 5/16 sub-TE in place along
with the 3/16 x 1/4 square tip pieces. Once everything is properly
aligned, glue the structure together using thin-viscosity
cyanoacrylate.
Glue the two upper 1/8 square spars in place along with the
angled tip piece at the end of the upper main spar.
Construct each aileron over the plans. Pin the lower 1/16 sheet
in place along with the 1/8 square aileron LE piece, all the aileron
ribs, and the tapered 1/8 sheet filler piece that supports the aileron
torque rod. Glue this assembly together with cyanoacrylate. Glue
the aileron top 1/16 sheet in place.
To join the two wing panels, block-sand the proper dihedral
angle on the protruding spars, LE, and sub-TE. On a flat surface
pin one wing panel flat and block up the other panel so that there
is an inch of dihedral measured underneath the outermost wing
rib. Apply cyanoacrylate to the spars, LE, and sub-TE butt
joints.
Remove the wing and install the various balsa-sheet centersection
dihedral braces and servo-mounting rails. Finish-sand the
wing and ailerons to the indicated airfoil contours.
Trial-fit the aileron hinges and torque rods in place, but do
not glue them.
(The plans sheet shows a permanently mounted wing. That is
the way I built both of my E.Vs since they are relatively small
models. Others may prefer to use a removable wing for more
compact storage and transportability. This is certainly a viable
option, using the conventional rubber-band-and-dowels method
or small nylon bolts. If you pick one of
these alternative wing-mounting methods,
you will have to modify the wing centersection
accordingly.)
Fuselage: The two basic fuselage sides,
which are indicated with shading, are
constructed directly over the plans sheet
using 1/8 square balsa. A vertical piece of
1/16 x 1/8 balsa is to be used where the
fuselage side sheeting ends.
The 1/8 square balsa vertical uprights that
support the motor-mounting bulkhead should
be positioned fore or aft, according to the
motor unit that will be used. The bottom of
the motor-mounting bulkhead will have to be
trimmed or lengthened accordingly.
Glue the 1/16 fuselage side sheeting in
place over the basic fuselage side structures,
as well as the 1/16 sheeting that is inlaid flush
with the side structure at the tail. Ensure that
you make a left- and right-hand side!
Measure and cut the 1/8-inch slots in the tail
sheeting on each fuselage side to accept the
stabilizer.
After sanding the fuselage side sheeting
flush with the outer edges of the basic side
structure, pin both fuselage sides in place
(bottom side up) along the forward flat
portion of each side, over the fuselage top
view on the plans sheet.
Glue the various 1/8 square crosspieces in
place (top and bottom), ensuring that the
fuselage sides are square to the building
surface and that the fuselage curvature
matches the plans sheet.
Remove the fuselage structure from the
building board and glue the motor-mounting
bulkhead and 1/8 poplar plywood landinggear-
mounting blocks in place. The poplar
plywood landing-gear blocks should be
slotted to accept the landing-gear-assembly
upper crossmembers.
Inlay 1/16 sheeting flush with the top and
bottom in the exterior surfaces of the
fuselage at the tail.
Fabricate the landing-gear structure using
two pieces of .047 (3/64-inch-diameter) music
wire. The landing-gear axle is a straight 53/4-
inch-long piece of wire.
Mount the landing-gear
assembly in place. I
drilled small holes
in each poplar
plywood block and
used button thread for this
purpose, and I applied
cyanoacrylate to each wrapped
attachment point.
Glue the 1/16 bottom sheeting
pieces in place, cross-grain, and fabricate
the bottom access hatch. Glue formers
The left wing panel takes shape over the plans. This wing is simple to construct
accurately on a flat building board because of the flat-bottom airfoil.
The two fuselage sides are built over the plans, as shown. The construction is light but
also extremely strong.
The fuselage sides and tail assembly pieces are quickly produced and are ready for
assembly. There’s nothing here to fear when building.
January 2007 31
Two pieces of .047 music wire are used to make the landinggear
system. The axle is a straight piece of wire that measures
53/4 inches long.
Above: Lens RC brushless motor
equipped with Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 ESC and motor-mounting
bulkhead with motor mount.
Mount the landing-gear assembly in place by drilling small holes in
each poplar plywood block and using button thread to lash it in
place. Apply cyanoacrylate to each wrapped attachment point.
Left: It’s almost a shame to cover
woodwork this pretty! Note the pilot
figure and simulated machine gun. The
details make the difference!
Pfalz E.V
Type: Sport scale
Ready-to-fly weight: 7.8 ounces
Wingspan: 39.75 inches
Wing area: 258 square inches
Recommended motor: Small outrunner
type (direct drive), brushless
Control functions: Rudder,
elevator, ailerons, throttle
Elevator throws: 1/2
inch up and down
Aileron throws: 1/4 inch up and down
Rudder throws: 7/8 inch left and right
Side thrust: 0°
Downthrust/upthrust: 0°
Incidence: Stabilizer, 0º; wing, 2º
(built in)
Construction: Balsa and poplar
plywood
Covering/finish: Balsa Products
Light Weight Tissue (polyester)
Photos by the author
32 MODEL AVIATION
There’s ample room in the Pfalz’s fuselage for the microservos that are used. Notice the
neat pushrod attachments. This is clean work!
In this view of the tail area you can see the tail-skid detail and some of the graphics that
lend to the model’s scale appearance.
F1, F2, and F3 in place along with the top
sheeting from F3 aft. Install the forward top
sheeting over the formers. Glue the 1/4 sheet
nose block in place.
Fabricate the 1/8 square basswood tail skid
and .032 (1/32-inch-diameter) music-wire
brace, and trial-fit this assembly. Do not glue
it in place at this time; it is easier to
permanently install after the fuselage has been
covered.
The next step will depend on which
method of attaching the wing is to be
employed. If the wing is to be permanently
installed, as shown on the plans sheet, all you
need to do is mark and cut out the sheeting on
each side of the fuselage, to accept the wing.
(The plywood template that was made to cut
out the wing ribs comes in handy for this, but
be sure to allow for the LE and sub-TE
portions.)
If you prefer a removable wing, carefully
cut and remove the upper portion of the
fuselage, aft from former F3 and directly
above the wing, down to the 1/8 square lateral
fuselage pieces that provide the proper wing
incidence.
After mounting the wing to the fuselage—
using either the rubber-band-and-dowel or
nylon-bolt method—trim the removed portion
of the fuselage to fit in its original position
(flush with the fuselage) and glue it in place
on top of the wing center-section.
Sand the nose block to the indicated
contour, and feather the fuselage sheeting
flush with the 1/8 fuselage longerons.
Cut the engine access and cooling opening
in the nose block. Fine-sand the entire
fuselage assembly.
Tail Surfaces: Construct all the tail surfaces,
primarily from 1/8 square balsa, directly over
the plans sheet.
Use two pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 balsa,
laminated to facilitate bending, on the
radiused portions of the vertical fin/rudder.
After construction, lightly block-sand all the
tail surfaces, radius all the perimeter edges,
and trial-fit the hinges.
Fashion the elevator coupler from a piece
of 1/16 dowel, such as the wood portion of an
ordinary cotton-tipped applicator. Cut the
horn portion from a small piece of 1/32
plywood.
My original model employed a fixed
rudder and the second model used an
operable rudder. Both fly fine, but the version
equipped with a controllable rudder is more
aerobatic and can be taxied.
Covering: Both of my E.Vs were covered
with Balsa Products’ Light Weight Tissue
made from polyester fiber. I selected the
Antique White color because it more closely
resembles the early World War I fabric
finishes that were used.
This heat-shrinkable tissue results in a far
more realistic finish than the glossy film-type
coverings. And although it is slightly porous,
it is water resistant.
Since this material does not have an
adhesive backing, you must apply a coat of
heat-activated adhesive, such as Balsaloc, to
all surface areas to which the tissue will be
attached. It can be sealed with a light coat of
dope, but that isn’t necessary.
The Light Weight Tissue weighs .673
ounce per square yard, compared to a filmtype
covering such as Solarfilm Lite (So-Lite)
that weighs .600 ounce per yard.
Another advantage of the polyester tissue
is that it is stronger and more puncture
resistant than film-type covering.
I covered all of the various subassembly
pieces before final assembly.
Final Assembly: If the wing is to be
permanently mounted, slide it (less ailerons
and torque rods) into place through the
openings that were cut in the fuselage. After
making sure the wing is properly aligned,
glue it in place.
Install the aileron torque rods into the
recesses that were cut into the wing sub-TE
and glue them in place. A small amount of
thicker-viscosity cyanoacrylate works well for
this because it is less likely to wick into the
torque-rod and bushing assembly.
(Applying a bit of oil to the bushing or
wax, sealing the ends of the bushing, before
applying the cyanoacrylate is additional
insurance that the torque rods will move freely
after they are permanently glued in place.)
The sequence I used for mounting the tail
surfaces was to position the elevator coupler
in place and connect it to the control rod and
elevator servo before sliding the stabilizer into
position. After you have properly aligned the
stabilizer, glue it in place and install the
elevators.
Install the vertical fin/rudder (fixed or
operable) and the tail-skid assembly.
I used 8-pound-test (black) monofilament
fishing line for the “pull-pull”-type ruddercontrol
cables.
To dress up my model a bit I installed a
pilot bust and a machine gun. The pilot was
made from hollowed-out rigid foam, and it
weighed .18 ounce. The .05-ounce machine
gun was fabricated from 1/16 balsa-sheet
scraps and a small piece of drafting Mylar.
I cut the black Maltese cross insignia from
black Major Decals water-transfer-decal sheet
material.
Radio and Power Details: I used an
Airtronics RD8000 transmitter with both of
my Pfalz E.Vs. I equipped the original model
with an Airtronics microreceiver (item
92515Z) and Super MicroLite servos (item
94091Z).
I equipped the subject of this article with a
GWS R4P Pico receiver and GWS Pico
servos. It was powered with a direct-drive
Lens (17-turn) brushless motor equipped with
a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 ESC and a
Great Planes ElectriFly two-cell 720 mAh Li-
Poly battery pack (item GPMP0810). I
installed a GWS 8 x 4 propeller (item
EP8040).
I obtained the indicated CG by positioning
the battery pack just forward of the CG point
shown. The control-surface travel limits were
set up according to the dimensions shown on
the plans sheet.
Ready to fly, my Pfalz E.V weighed 7.8
ounces. That produced a modest wing loading
of 4.35 ounces per square foot.
Flying: The E.V model shown was
constructed during what most RC modelers in
New England commonly refer to as “The
Building Season.” Nonaeromodeling area
residents simply refer to this time of year as
“January and February.”
As my age increases, so do the outside-airtemperature
minimums I consider to be
acceptable for RC flying. Long gone are the
days of flying in single-digit temperatures and
actually enjoying it, with the transmitter and
my hands encased in an insulated mitt!
Fortunately, RC indoor flying sessions
have been scheduled weekly in my area at a
relatively new sports facility that encompasses
three soccer fields. For local modelers these
indoor sessions have proven to be popular and
a welcome break from the monotony of what
seems to be unending cold, snowy, dreary
winter weather. With no numbing conditions
or wind to contend with, what better place to
test-fly the Pfalz?
As the system battery packs were fully
charged, the preflight check consisted of a
radio range check and a quick wiggle of the
sticks to ensure that all controls were
functioning properly. The takeoff was to be
made from flat artificial turf, which presented
an ideal opportunity to assess groundhandling
capabilities. I spent a few moments
just taxiing the E.V. In spite of being
equipped with a fixed tail skid, the model’s
ground handling was quite good.
I made a smooth takeoff by holding a bit
of right rudder and up-elevator while
gradually advancing the throttle. The takeoff
run was straight and surprisingly short, and it
was quickly apparent that the Lens directdrive
brushless motor was an ideal power
choice.
Several blips of down-elevator and one
blip of right aileron were the only things
needed to have the Pfalz flying nicely. Then I
spent several minutes just flying the model
around to assess its in-flight capabilities and
traits. Most of this flight time was used flying
at half to two-thirds throttle. At full throttle
the airplane will easily loop from straight and
level flight, and it is reasonably aerobatic.
Landing the E.V was easy and uneventful.
My initial test flight was seven to eight
minutes in duration, and there was still “time”
left in the 720 mAh battery pack. Subsequent
flights revealed that flights in the 12- to 14-
minute range were easy to attain with
judicious use of the throttle. The model flies
much like a trainer.
I have flown my E.V outdoors on many
occasions, with no mishaps. I have found it to
be a fun airplane to fly that will perform well
even in less than calm air conditions. Wind
conditions that allow any of the popular slow
park flyer designs to be used pose no problem
for the Pfalz.
Although this model can be flown in mildbreeze
conditions, it is an ideal fun-type
airplane for the calm air in which you can fly
it low and slow, only a foot or two above the
ground, with complete confidence.
If you are searching for a simple, lowcost,
electric-powered sport-scale building
project, I hope you find the Pfalz E.V to be
of interest. MA
Bob Wallace
[email protected]
Sources:
Water-Transfer Decals:
Major Decals
21 Fisher Ave.
East Longmeadow MA 01028
(413) 525-7465
www.majordecals.com
ESC:
Castle Creations
402 E. Pendleton Ave.
Wellsville KS 66092
(785) 883-4571
www.castlecreations.com
Todd’s Models
Box 827
Snoqualmie WA 98065
(425) 888-3201
www.toddsmodels.com/index.html
Edition: Model Aviation - 2007/01
Page Numbers: 28,29,30,31,32,33,34
HISTORY: The Pfalz Aircraft Company (Pfalz
Flugzeugwerke) was one of Germany’s first aircraft
manufacturers, but its designs were overshadowed throughout
World War I by the more famous designs of manufacturers
such as Fokker and Albatros. When World War I broke out,
Fokker and Pfalz were building and testing E-type fighter
designs that were essentially based on the successful French
Morane-Saulnier type H monoplane design.
The first E-type fighters to be used by the German Air
Service were Fokkers. Few Pfalz type E aircraft ever saw
frontline service because it was quickly determined that the
Fokker E-type monoplanes were clearly superior in almost all
performance aspects and greatly preferred by their pilots.
The Pfalz E types were also considered to be more
prone to in-flight structural failures. In August 1916 all
Pfalz E-type aircraft were ordered to be withdrawn
from service, and they were then used only for
cannibalizing for parts.
The Pfalz and Fokker type E designs were
so similar in appearance that Allied pilots
simply referred to them all as
“Fokkers”; thus the Pfalz E types
were even less recognized.
The main visual
difference between
the Fokker and Pfalz
E types was the shape of
the vertical fin/rudder; it
was rounded on the Fokkers
January 2007 29
In flight the Pfalz gives the appearance of being much larger
than it actually is. It’s a great first build for new modelers!
and squared off on the TE of the Pfalz.
The most distinguishing visual feature associated with the
E.V was its use of a Mercedes liquid-cooled, in-line engine
rather than the commonly used Oberursel rotary engine. The E.V
did offer improved flight performance, but it was still inferior to
the more favored Fokker E designs. A total of 20 E.Vs were
built, but only three were ever used in frontline air units.
Model Selection: I wanted to construct an easy-to-build and -fly,
electric-powered model that resembled a World War I fighter,
and I wanted to be able to fly it indoors and outside as a back
yard or park flyer.
I didn’t choose the Pfalz E.V as a modeling subject only
because it was a bit different and a little-known design. I also
picked it because it was powered by an in-line engine that
resulted in a fuselage with a longer nose-moment arm that I
hoped would produce a better-flying model. Another appealing
factor was a fuselage that was essentially rectangular in shape,
making it easier to fabricate.
The scale fidelity of the model shown in this article has been
stretched to the point where calling it “sport scale” with the
emphasis on “sport” is accurate. The full-scale E.V’s wing was
supported by a series of guy wires that were attached to top and
bottom fuselage-mounted pylons. Since my intent never was to
create an exact-scale model or to add much scale detailing, I used
no guy wires or fuselage-support pylons on the model.
Although I enlarged and slightly altered the E.V’s tail
surfaces and took other scaling liberties to improve flight
performance, I feel that the finished model retains a reasonable
resemblance to the full-scale aircraft. In addition, this
construction job uses materials that are readily available in any
reasonably well-stocked hobby shop.
CONSTRUCTION
As with any model-building project, it is easier to cut out or
fabricate the shaped parts before starting the construction
process. The cut or shaped parts needed to make the Pfalz E.V
consist of the wing and aileron ribs, the motor-mount bulkhead,
and the three fuselage top formers.
Making a wing-rib cutting template from 1/32 or 1/16 plywood
speeds the rib-cutting process along. Rather than cut each aileron
rib individually, I cut a piece of 1/8 balsa sheet (cross-grain) 3/4
inch long and block-sanded it to a feathered edge on one end.
Then I could rapidly trim off each aileron rib using a Master
Airscrew balsa stripper. This method was much easier.
The exact position of the motor-mounting bulkhead will be
determined by the type of motor unit you use. My prototype
model employed a GWS IPS A geared unit with a Feigao
brushless motor instead of the supplied power plant. My second
model (shown in the various construction photographs
accompanying this article) employed a Lens RC spindle-type,
direct-drive, brushless motor.
The original model, equipped with the GWS geared-motor
unit, was powered by a two-cell 340 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.
The second model, equipped with the Lens direct-drive brushless
motor, used a larger, two-cell 720 mAh pack.
Since the E.V’s construction is not overly difficult or
complicated, I will not present the following in a step-by-step,
place-tab-“A”-in-slot-“B”-on-part-“C” format. The wing panels,
fuselage, and tail surfaces—which are all of open-structure,
built-up contest-grade-balsa construction—are made directly
over the plans sheet. Be sure to cover the plans sheet with waxed
paper or clear plastic to facilitate easy removal of the various
subassemblies.
Wing: Construct each wing panel by pinning the lower 1/8 x 1/4
main spar, ribs, 3/16 x 3/8 LE, and 3/16 x 5/16 sub-TE in place along
with the 3/16 x 1/4 square tip pieces. Once everything is properly
aligned, glue the structure together using thin-viscosity
cyanoacrylate.
Glue the two upper 1/8 square spars in place along with the
angled tip piece at the end of the upper main spar.
Construct each aileron over the plans. Pin the lower 1/16 sheet
in place along with the 1/8 square aileron LE piece, all the aileron
ribs, and the tapered 1/8 sheet filler piece that supports the aileron
torque rod. Glue this assembly together with cyanoacrylate. Glue
the aileron top 1/16 sheet in place.
To join the two wing panels, block-sand the proper dihedral
angle on the protruding spars, LE, and sub-TE. On a flat surface
pin one wing panel flat and block up the other panel so that there
is an inch of dihedral measured underneath the outermost wing
rib. Apply cyanoacrylate to the spars, LE, and sub-TE butt
joints.
Remove the wing and install the various balsa-sheet centersection
dihedral braces and servo-mounting rails. Finish-sand the
wing and ailerons to the indicated airfoil contours.
Trial-fit the aileron hinges and torque rods in place, but do
not glue them.
(The plans sheet shows a permanently mounted wing. That is
the way I built both of my E.Vs since they are relatively small
models. Others may prefer to use a removable wing for more
compact storage and transportability. This is certainly a viable
option, using the conventional rubber-band-and-dowels method
or small nylon bolts. If you pick one of
these alternative wing-mounting methods,
you will have to modify the wing centersection
accordingly.)
Fuselage: The two basic fuselage sides,
which are indicated with shading, are
constructed directly over the plans sheet
using 1/8 square balsa. A vertical piece of
1/16 x 1/8 balsa is to be used where the
fuselage side sheeting ends.
The 1/8 square balsa vertical uprights that
support the motor-mounting bulkhead should
be positioned fore or aft, according to the
motor unit that will be used. The bottom of
the motor-mounting bulkhead will have to be
trimmed or lengthened accordingly.
Glue the 1/16 fuselage side sheeting in
place over the basic fuselage side structures,
as well as the 1/16 sheeting that is inlaid flush
with the side structure at the tail. Ensure that
you make a left- and right-hand side!
Measure and cut the 1/8-inch slots in the tail
sheeting on each fuselage side to accept the
stabilizer.
After sanding the fuselage side sheeting
flush with the outer edges of the basic side
structure, pin both fuselage sides in place
(bottom side up) along the forward flat
portion of each side, over the fuselage top
view on the plans sheet.
Glue the various 1/8 square crosspieces in
place (top and bottom), ensuring that the
fuselage sides are square to the building
surface and that the fuselage curvature
matches the plans sheet.
Remove the fuselage structure from the
building board and glue the motor-mounting
bulkhead and 1/8 poplar plywood landinggear-
mounting blocks in place. The poplar
plywood landing-gear blocks should be
slotted to accept the landing-gear-assembly
upper crossmembers.
Inlay 1/16 sheeting flush with the top and
bottom in the exterior surfaces of the
fuselage at the tail.
Fabricate the landing-gear structure using
two pieces of .047 (3/64-inch-diameter) music
wire. The landing-gear axle is a straight 53/4-
inch-long piece of wire.
Mount the landing-gear
assembly in place. I
drilled small holes
in each poplar
plywood block and
used button thread for this
purpose, and I applied
cyanoacrylate to each wrapped
attachment point.
Glue the 1/16 bottom sheeting
pieces in place, cross-grain, and fabricate
the bottom access hatch. Glue formers
The left wing panel takes shape over the plans. This wing is simple to construct
accurately on a flat building board because of the flat-bottom airfoil.
The two fuselage sides are built over the plans, as shown. The construction is light but
also extremely strong.
The fuselage sides and tail assembly pieces are quickly produced and are ready for
assembly. There’s nothing here to fear when building.
January 2007 31
Two pieces of .047 music wire are used to make the landinggear
system. The axle is a straight piece of wire that measures
53/4 inches long.
Above: Lens RC brushless motor
equipped with Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 ESC and motor-mounting
bulkhead with motor mount.
Mount the landing-gear assembly in place by drilling small holes in
each poplar plywood block and using button thread to lash it in
place. Apply cyanoacrylate to each wrapped attachment point.
Left: It’s almost a shame to cover
woodwork this pretty! Note the pilot
figure and simulated machine gun. The
details make the difference!
Pfalz E.V
Type: Sport scale
Ready-to-fly weight: 7.8 ounces
Wingspan: 39.75 inches
Wing area: 258 square inches
Recommended motor: Small outrunner
type (direct drive), brushless
Control functions: Rudder,
elevator, ailerons, throttle
Elevator throws: 1/2
inch up and down
Aileron throws: 1/4 inch up and down
Rudder throws: 7/8 inch left and right
Side thrust: 0°
Downthrust/upthrust: 0°
Incidence: Stabilizer, 0º; wing, 2º
(built in)
Construction: Balsa and poplar
plywood
Covering/finish: Balsa Products
Light Weight Tissue (polyester)
Photos by the author
32 MODEL AVIATION
There’s ample room in the Pfalz’s fuselage for the microservos that are used. Notice the
neat pushrod attachments. This is clean work!
In this view of the tail area you can see the tail-skid detail and some of the graphics that
lend to the model’s scale appearance.
F1, F2, and F3 in place along with the top
sheeting from F3 aft. Install the forward top
sheeting over the formers. Glue the 1/4 sheet
nose block in place.
Fabricate the 1/8 square basswood tail skid
and .032 (1/32-inch-diameter) music-wire
brace, and trial-fit this assembly. Do not glue
it in place at this time; it is easier to
permanently install after the fuselage has been
covered.
The next step will depend on which
method of attaching the wing is to be
employed. If the wing is to be permanently
installed, as shown on the plans sheet, all you
need to do is mark and cut out the sheeting on
each side of the fuselage, to accept the wing.
(The plywood template that was made to cut
out the wing ribs comes in handy for this, but
be sure to allow for the LE and sub-TE
portions.)
If you prefer a removable wing, carefully
cut and remove the upper portion of the
fuselage, aft from former F3 and directly
above the wing, down to the 1/8 square lateral
fuselage pieces that provide the proper wing
incidence.
After mounting the wing to the fuselage—
using either the rubber-band-and-dowel or
nylon-bolt method—trim the removed portion
of the fuselage to fit in its original position
(flush with the fuselage) and glue it in place
on top of the wing center-section.
Sand the nose block to the indicated
contour, and feather the fuselage sheeting
flush with the 1/8 fuselage longerons.
Cut the engine access and cooling opening
in the nose block. Fine-sand the entire
fuselage assembly.
Tail Surfaces: Construct all the tail surfaces,
primarily from 1/8 square balsa, directly over
the plans sheet.
Use two pieces of 1/16 x 1/8 balsa,
laminated to facilitate bending, on the
radiused portions of the vertical fin/rudder.
After construction, lightly block-sand all the
tail surfaces, radius all the perimeter edges,
and trial-fit the hinges.
Fashion the elevator coupler from a piece
of 1/16 dowel, such as the wood portion of an
ordinary cotton-tipped applicator. Cut the
horn portion from a small piece of 1/32
plywood.
My original model employed a fixed
rudder and the second model used an
operable rudder. Both fly fine, but the version
equipped with a controllable rudder is more
aerobatic and can be taxied.
Covering: Both of my E.Vs were covered
with Balsa Products’ Light Weight Tissue
made from polyester fiber. I selected the
Antique White color because it more closely
resembles the early World War I fabric
finishes that were used.
This heat-shrinkable tissue results in a far
more realistic finish than the glossy film-type
coverings. And although it is slightly porous,
it is water resistant.
Since this material does not have an
adhesive backing, you must apply a coat of
heat-activated adhesive, such as Balsaloc, to
all surface areas to which the tissue will be
attached. It can be sealed with a light coat of
dope, but that isn’t necessary.
The Light Weight Tissue weighs .673
ounce per square yard, compared to a filmtype
covering such as Solarfilm Lite (So-Lite)
that weighs .600 ounce per yard.
Another advantage of the polyester tissue
is that it is stronger and more puncture
resistant than film-type covering.
I covered all of the various subassembly
pieces before final assembly.
Final Assembly: If the wing is to be
permanently mounted, slide it (less ailerons
and torque rods) into place through the
openings that were cut in the fuselage. After
making sure the wing is properly aligned,
glue it in place.
Install the aileron torque rods into the
recesses that were cut into the wing sub-TE
and glue them in place. A small amount of
thicker-viscosity cyanoacrylate works well for
this because it is less likely to wick into the
torque-rod and bushing assembly.
(Applying a bit of oil to the bushing or
wax, sealing the ends of the bushing, before
applying the cyanoacrylate is additional
insurance that the torque rods will move freely
after they are permanently glued in place.)
The sequence I used for mounting the tail
surfaces was to position the elevator coupler
in place and connect it to the control rod and
elevator servo before sliding the stabilizer into
position. After you have properly aligned the
stabilizer, glue it in place and install the
elevators.
Install the vertical fin/rudder (fixed or
operable) and the tail-skid assembly.
I used 8-pound-test (black) monofilament
fishing line for the “pull-pull”-type ruddercontrol
cables.
To dress up my model a bit I installed a
pilot bust and a machine gun. The pilot was
made from hollowed-out rigid foam, and it
weighed .18 ounce. The .05-ounce machine
gun was fabricated from 1/16 balsa-sheet
scraps and a small piece of drafting Mylar.
I cut the black Maltese cross insignia from
black Major Decals water-transfer-decal sheet
material.
Radio and Power Details: I used an
Airtronics RD8000 transmitter with both of
my Pfalz E.Vs. I equipped the original model
with an Airtronics microreceiver (item
92515Z) and Super MicroLite servos (item
94091Z).
I equipped the subject of this article with a
GWS R4P Pico receiver and GWS Pico
servos. It was powered with a direct-drive
Lens (17-turn) brushless motor equipped with
a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 ESC and a
Great Planes ElectriFly two-cell 720 mAh Li-
Poly battery pack (item GPMP0810). I
installed a GWS 8 x 4 propeller (item
EP8040).
I obtained the indicated CG by positioning
the battery pack just forward of the CG point
shown. The control-surface travel limits were
set up according to the dimensions shown on
the plans sheet.
Ready to fly, my Pfalz E.V weighed 7.8
ounces. That produced a modest wing loading
of 4.35 ounces per square foot.
Flying: The E.V model shown was
constructed during what most RC modelers in
New England commonly refer to as “The
Building Season.” Nonaeromodeling area
residents simply refer to this time of year as
“January and February.”
As my age increases, so do the outside-airtemperature
minimums I consider to be
acceptable for RC flying. Long gone are the
days of flying in single-digit temperatures and
actually enjoying it, with the transmitter and
my hands encased in an insulated mitt!
Fortunately, RC indoor flying sessions
have been scheduled weekly in my area at a
relatively new sports facility that encompasses
three soccer fields. For local modelers these
indoor sessions have proven to be popular and
a welcome break from the monotony of what
seems to be unending cold, snowy, dreary
winter weather. With no numbing conditions
or wind to contend with, what better place to
test-fly the Pfalz?
As the system battery packs were fully
charged, the preflight check consisted of a
radio range check and a quick wiggle of the
sticks to ensure that all controls were
functioning properly. The takeoff was to be
made from flat artificial turf, which presented
an ideal opportunity to assess groundhandling
capabilities. I spent a few moments
just taxiing the E.V. In spite of being
equipped with a fixed tail skid, the model’s
ground handling was quite good.
I made a smooth takeoff by holding a bit
of right rudder and up-elevator while
gradually advancing the throttle. The takeoff
run was straight and surprisingly short, and it
was quickly apparent that the Lens directdrive
brushless motor was an ideal power
choice.
Several blips of down-elevator and one
blip of right aileron were the only things
needed to have the Pfalz flying nicely. Then I
spent several minutes just flying the model
around to assess its in-flight capabilities and
traits. Most of this flight time was used flying
at half to two-thirds throttle. At full throttle
the airplane will easily loop from straight and
level flight, and it is reasonably aerobatic.
Landing the E.V was easy and uneventful.
My initial test flight was seven to eight
minutes in duration, and there was still “time”
left in the 720 mAh battery pack. Subsequent
flights revealed that flights in the 12- to 14-
minute range were easy to attain with
judicious use of the throttle. The model flies
much like a trainer.
I have flown my E.V outdoors on many
occasions, with no mishaps. I have found it to
be a fun airplane to fly that will perform well
even in less than calm air conditions. Wind
conditions that allow any of the popular slow
park flyer designs to be used pose no problem
for the Pfalz.
Although this model can be flown in mildbreeze
conditions, it is an ideal fun-type
airplane for the calm air in which you can fly
it low and slow, only a foot or two above the
ground, with complete confidence.
If you are searching for a simple, lowcost,
electric-powered sport-scale building
project, I hope you find the Pfalz E.V to be
of interest. MA
Bob Wallace
[email protected]
Sources:
Water-Transfer Decals:
Major Decals
21 Fisher Ave.
East Longmeadow MA 01028
(413) 525-7465
www.majordecals.com
ESC:
Castle Creations
402 E. Pendleton Ave.
Wellsville KS 66092
(785) 883-4571
www.castlecreations.com
Todd’s Models
Box 827
Snoqualmie WA 98065
(425) 888-3201
www.toddsmodels.com/index.html