The Pogo ARF’s First Flights - 2003/09

THIS IS the seventh
consecutive installment
of this beginners’
series. In previous
articles you learned a
little about Radio
Control (RC)
equipment, how to
install that equipment,
and how to operate it. I
went on to describe a typical electric power
system for a model aircraft. Last month we
assembled an Almost Ready-to-Fly (ARF)
model into which we installed the RC system
and the electric power system.
Now, after six months of reading, you are
ready to venture out to a local flying field for
that first flight session.
In preparation for that first day at the field
I have a few preliminary suggestions.
Several of these items have already been
discussed, so consider this a final refresher
course. While still in your shop, remove the
propeller; an accidental motor start-up could
have your AeroCraft Pogo dashing around
your shop, and that could cause big
problems.
Check the balance point, or center of
gravity (CG). The Pogo instruction manual
indicates that the model should balance at a
point 2 inches back from the leading edge of
the wing. You can mark that exact point with
a felt-tipped marker for reference purposes.
Place your hands under the wing with one
finger (on each side of the pylon) touching
the balance point. Support the model with
these two fingers and allow it to rock back
and forth. If the model is nose-heavy, the
Pogo’s nose will dip forward. A tail-heavy
model will display the opposite effect. A
nose-heavy model might dive into the
ground, and a tail-heavy model might stall
and crash.
The battery pack accounts for more than
one-third of the total model weight. You can
use that weight to your advantage to help
balance the model. You would slide the
battery forward if the model was tail-heavy;
you would slide it toward the rear if it was
nose-heavy. When it achieves the proper
balance, the Pogo should be level when
supported by your two fingers.
If you are flying a fueled model,
you must take into account the
weight of the fuel and the fact that
it is burned off during the flight.
Engine expert/author Frank
Granelli will pick up on this subject in a
later installment.
Follow the start-up procedure by turning
on the transmitter, then turning on the
receiver. In the Pogo, the Jeti JES-10
Electronic Speed Control (ESC) has a main
power on/off switch. With power turned on
to both units (the transmitter and the aircraft),
the rudder and elevator should move when
you apply left/right or up/down motion to the
transmitter control stick.
Before doing anything, set your
transmitter trim levers for the rudder and
elevator to their neutral positions. Observe
66 MODEL AVIATION
The Pogo ARF’s
First Flights ■ Bob Aberle
Author’s student Jay Federman holds
AeroCraft Pogo that he will learn to fly. He
is quickly learning thrills and experiences
of flying RC models.
Before operating electric-powered model, remove propeller for safety reasons. If motor
started accidentally with propeller in place, it could cause extensive damage and/or
injury in your shop.
the rudder and elevator positions on the Pogo; both control surfaces
should be at neutral.
Since the Pogo employs pull-pull strings between the servos and
control surfaces, you really don’t have any mechanical means of
adjusting for an exact neutral position. Use your transmitter’s trim
levers to achieve those neutral positions. If you did everything correct
during the Pogo’s assembly, you should be close.
Move the control stick left and right (side to side) and notice the
direction in which the rudder moves. Looking from the rear of the
Pogo forward, applying right rudder control stick should cause the
rudder to move to the right. Try the left side to see if the rudder moves
to the left. Pull back on the transmitter control stick, and the elevator
should go up.
If the direction of control is backward, change the servo direction
for the affected channel at the transmitter. Most RC transmitters have
servo-reversing switches. On this Hitec Neon system you must open
the transmitter case, identify the proper cable, unplug it and rotate the
connector 180°, then plug it back in. By reversing the correct cable,
you reverse the direction of the servo.
The final step in this process is to check the position of the throttle
control. On the Hitec Neon the throttle or motor control is a lever on
the rear of the case that is operated by the index finger of your left
hand.
Most fliers set this motor-control lever so that moving away from
you (toward the right side of the transmitter case) would be high
throttle (full speed). Bringing the lever toward you (to the left side of
the transmitter case) would be idle and/or motor off. A cable inside
the Neon case can be rotated 180°, effecting reversal of motion for
that channel function.
The last item in this sequence of control checks is the amount of
throw that the rudder and elevator make. Most kit manufacturers will
give you a start-up guide. For the Pogo, a good starting point is for the
rudder to move 1⁄2 inch either side of the neutral position and the
elevator to move approximately 1⁄4 inch either side of neutral.
If you have the dual rate and endpoint options installed on your
Neon transmitter, setting these control throws (excursions) is easy.
Place a small ruler next to the rudder. Hold the transmitter rudder
control stick hard over, and dial the endpoint control adjustment (with
a screwdriver) until you have the 1⁄2 inch of rudder throw. Repeat this
process for the elevator using the separate endpoint adjustment for
that channel function.
After your first few flights you will be able to go back and make
final adjustments based on recommendations you get from your
instructor pilot.
For safety’s sake, physically pull on your model’s rudder and
elevator to make sure that the hinges have been properly secured. If
the control surface comes off in your hand, you didn’t do the job right
and better try again.
The Pogo employs a pull/pull control-cord system to connect the
servos to the control surfaces. Short of a cord breaking, not much can
happen. If you use control rods or wires, make sure that all connection
points (to the servo output arm as well as the control horn) are secured
properly with keepers, tape, or whatever.
Before heading out to the flying field, spend a little time sitting by
your workbench and operating the controls. For short periods of time
you can do this with the transmitter antenna partially collapsed
(retracted into the case).
Always keep in mind your location with respect to a local flying
field. If one is close by, you could cause interference for another
modeler even while operating the system indoors (from your shop).
Remember that!
As you move the transmitter control stick, watch the control
surfaces move. Try to visualize what is happening. Get into the habit
of moving the control stick smoothly and slowly; yanking it over hard
might cause the aircraft to make a violent maneuver.
In the same regard, always hold onto the control stick. Don’t move
it hard over and let go, allowing the spring to bring the stick back to
the neutral position. Doing this will make the model react violently, or
at least look “jerky” in the sky.
You might also want to try one of the popular model-aircraft
simulators that are on the market. Several simulators are available that
can be adapted to your personal computer (PC). The heart of the
simulator system is specially designed software (usually on a compact
disc). You attach a transmitterlike device, with control sticks, into
your PC, much as you would a mouse. As you impart control
commands through these sticks, the model images move on your PC
monitor.
September 2003 67
Author operates Pogo in his basement shop. Student should be
familiar with control movements before heading out to flying field
the first time.
RC transmitter charges the night before going to flying field.
Battery pack charges at home before heading to field.
Transmitter, flight-pack batteries should be fully charged before
you leave for the field.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia
The simulator is quite realistic and offers excellent training
capabilities. It can be important before your first flight, and it can
continue to be of assistance as you progress through your flight
lessons. Guest author Mark Lanterman will soon write an installment
about simulators.
Charge both sets of batteries (transmitter and receiver, or the main
power battery if you are dealing with electric power) the night before
you intend to fly. Try to make arrangements to have an instructor pilot
with you at the flying field. Make a few trips out to the local flying
site to introduce yourself, possibly take steps to join a club, and at that
time inquire about getting a regular instructor. Try to stay with the
same pilot during the learning process.
Early on, local fliers or an Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA)
club member will make a point of suggesting that you join AMA,
which, of course, publishes this magazine. It also offers all members
an excellent supplemental insurance protection plan.
Most model-aircraft clubs will insist, as a prerequisite to joining,
that you apply and become an AMA member. For more details about
AMA benefits, the Safety Code, and membership, go to
www.modelaircraft.org.
Before leaving for the flying field, make sure you have packed
everything necessary; you will need a toolbox containing some of the
basic modeling tools. Plan on breaking many propellers while
68 MODEL AVIATION
This shows setting a 1⁄2-inch rudder throw using the endpoint
adjustment control on the Hitec Neon transmitter.
Check to make sure that control-stick movement actually moves
control surface (rudder, elevator) in correct direction.
The center of gravity (CG) point has been marked on top of the
wing. The model must balance at this point.
Put finger underneath Pogo at CG point. Let model seek its own
level. Battery pack can be shifted forward or aft to make balance
come out level. Avoid nose-heavy or tail-heavy situation.
Pull on elevator, rudder hinges to make sure they are securely
cemented in place. You don’t want control surface falling off in flight.
learning to fly, so have extras on hand. You
might want to bring some CyA
(cyanoacrylate glue) for any quick repairs.
Of course, don’t forget your battery charger
and transmitter.
The best idea is to have a preprinted
packing list so you can check off all of the
items. I have to travel 40 minutes to my
flying field; if I were to forget an important
item, I might not be able to fly that day.
You should also get into the habit of
checking the weather before you start your
trip to the field. If strong winds are
forecasted, it might not be the day for you. It
is usually a good idea on a first-flight day,
or while you are learning to fly, to seek out
early-morning or early-evening times when
the winds are likely to be calm. Beginning
pilots don’t need to contend with high
winds!
When you finally get to the flying field,
hopefully you can quickly meet up with
your instructor. I keep harping on the
“instructor” because it is the best way to
learn. You can still learn to fly if you are
literally all by yourself, but it is surely going
to take longer.
Locate the frequency control board right
away. It will probably contain a clip for
each of the 50 aircraft RC channels. If your
RC transmitter operates on CH-52, obtain
the pin (or clip) for that channel number.
If that clip is on the frequency control
board, it is not in use. Secure it to your
transmitter antenna. If others go to fly on
CH-52 and find the clip missing from the
board, they will have to wait their turn, until
the clip is returned. Remember that only one
person can operate on a specific channel at a
time.
There is a variation of this frequency
clip-board concept where each member
brings a pin with his or her name written on
it. The frequency board at the field contains
all 50 channel numbers, and you place your
clip on the same channel number as your
transmitter. That lets all others know that
your channel is in use. They also will know
by name who is using it. Either way works!
Let your instructor get familiar with your
model, try out the controls, and verify
everything you have done at home in your
shop (check the balance point, control
directions, amount of throw, hinges, control
linkage, etc.).
Now is a good time to perform a radio
range check of your system. As I explained
in a previous article, turn on your
transmitter, then your receiver, and leave the
transmitter antenna collapsed or retracted as
much as possible.
You can leave the model on the ground
and, while holding the transmitter, hit one
control such as right rudder as you slowly
walk away from the model. The control
should operate in a solid or positive manner.
Keep walking until you reach a point at
which the rudder gets jittery.
You should be 50-100 feet from the
model when this happens, but the exact
distance will vary from radio to radio and
will depend on how much of the transmitter
September 2003 69
A type of frequency-control board. You bring a clip with your
name on it. When you want to fly, put clip on same channel
number as your transmitter. Another version has same board
with 50 clips—one for each channel. Place clip for your
frequency on your transmitter antenna. Any person who finds
clip missing from board knows that someone else is using
channel and must wait to fly.
Frequency channel-number placard must be affixed to antenna of
any transmitter. Number placard and red flag are usually
supplied with each new RC system.
Jay places his “name tag” on RC channel he will use. You must
do this before turning on power to transmitter. Failure to do so
could result in crash and possible injury.
antenna is actually exposed.
If for some reason you only get to 10
feet, you have a problem for sure. Your
instructor will have to work it out with you.
That usually doesn’t happen often since
today’s radio equipment is quite reliable in
general.
One more check is important. Turn on
your motor and have a helper hold the model
while you walk away with the transmitter.
You should obtain roughly the same distance
as when the motor is off.
A marked reduction in range with the
motor running indicates that the motor
system is causing a form of interference that
is getting to your radio. This must be
investigated before your first flight.
When turning that motor on for the first
time, make sure you verify that it is running
in the proper direction. The wind that the
propeller generates should be blowing
toward the back end of the model. If it’s not,
your motor polarity is backward and must be
corrected.
As an instructor I like to take the model
up for its first flight. Our flying field is rough
because it’s part dirt and part cut-down
weeds. Larger models can take off from the
ground, but the smaller parking-lot and
Speed 400 models (such as the Pogo) are best
hand launched.
On the first flight you are never really
sure what is going to happen. The model
might be out of trim and could drop off to the
left or the right. That requires fast reflexes on
the instructor’s part. So for those potential
problems, it is best to let the instructor make
the first flight.
The Pogo literally flew right out of my
hand, gaining altitude quickly and without
any tendency to fall off to either side. Once it
was up to roughly 50 feet of altitude, I began
making a few routine turns and learned that
the amount of control throw was perfect. No
adjustment in control travel would be
necessary.
I operated the motor speed control and
found that it was possible to fly the Pogo
with as little as half throttle. Doing that I was
able to slow the flying speed considerably,
which is what the student would want
initially.
My student was my retired family
internist Jay Federman. Jay has heard me talk
about RC models for more than 35 years and
got the idea that this would be a pleasant
source of retirement relaxation.
With the Pogo at a reasonably high
altitude, I let Jay have the transmitter for the
first time as I talked him through a few gentle
turns. We did this for a few minutes, and I
realized that it certainly is a demanding
experience the first time. I took over and
landed the Pogo at a slow speed, to the
pleasure of all who were present, and the
first flight was finished.
70 MODEL AVIATION
He grasps control stick with two fingers. Either way, don’t let go
and let it spring back to neutral position.
There are several ways to hold or grip transmitter control stick; it
is up to you. Author’s thumb is on top of stick.
RC system is ground range-tested with transmitter antenna
almost completely collapsed. You should be able to obtain solid
radio contact for 50-100 feet (between transmitter, aircraft)
without motor running, then with motor running.
Author makes Pogo’s first flight to check it out before Jay tries.
Bob holds transmitter with left hand while hand launching model
with right hand. It is best to run a few steps to get model up to
speed. If you have a paved runway at your field, try taking model
off of ground.
There are several approaches to learning to fly an RC model. The
simplest is for the instructor and student to share one radio transmitter
and pass it back and forth. If the student is flying and gets into
trouble, the instructor grabs the transmitter and takes over. When
learning, it is a good idea to keep the model at a substantial altitude so
that there is plenty of time for the instructor to grab the transmitter
long before the model crashes.
Another approach is to use a “trainer cable.” It will work with the
brand of transmitters that also have trainer-cable connectors. You buy
the cable as an accessory item and connect it to the rear of both
transmitters.
The primary transmitter—the one broadcasting the signal—is the
one the instructor holds; in this case it is the Hitec Neon singlecontrol-
stick transmitter. The end of the cable marked “Master” was
plugged in it. The other end of the cable marked “Student” went into
my Hitec Eclipse transmitter.
Unfortunately that means that the student would be flying with a
dual-stick-assembly transmitter while learning. Once on his own, he
would have to go back to his single-stick Neon. I didn’t like that idea,
so we abandoned the trainer cable for this series.
If you choose to use a trainer cable, it would be best to have two
Bob’s finger points to Hitec Neon’s long-handled trainer switch. When he pulls on switch and holds it on, control of model is
transferred to Jay and Hitec Eclipse he is holding. To take back control, Bob lets go of switch, then he is flying again. This easy
transfer of control can be better than passing a transmitter back and forth.
This flight shot of the Pogo is especially good since it clearly
shows the RC receiver antenna trailing behind.
Fast charge at field between flights using power from car battery.
Bob’s Honda Odyssey’s hood is open. At left is his homemade
cooling tube with battery pack sticking out. Fan built into tube
helps cool battery after a flight. At right is WattAge PF-12 AC/DC
peak-detect charger. This eight-cell, 1100 mAh battery gets
charged at maximum current of roughly 2 amps. It should take 30
minutes or slightly less to reach full charge.
Young modeler at Toledo Weak Signals RC show tries Dave
Brown Products RC simulator. Commands youngster puts in
with control stick (like a transmitter) cause model image on PC
monitor to look as if it is flying. It’s an excellent learning tool for
RC beginners. Several systems are available.
September 2003 71
identical transmitters. Keep in mind that with
a trainer-cable system the instructor need
only release that long-handled switch
(located at the top left corner of the
transmitter case) to regain control of the
model. He or she doesn’t have to grab the
transmitter from the student. That is the
primary feature of a trainer-cable system.
We logged five flights—each five to
seven minutes in duration—during our first
day at the field with the Pogo. The battery
pack was removed from the model after each
landing. (It is held in place with a few rubber
bands.) The battery was allowed to cool
before recharging was initiated.
A cooling tube (4-inch-diameter
polyvinyl-chloride pipe with a 12-volt
electric fan mounted on one end) was used to
quickly cool the battery after each flight. It
takes approximately 10 minutes to get the
battery cool, then 20-30 minutes (with the
charger set at 2 amps) to fully recharge the
battery. If you bought a second battery pack,
you could have one on charge while flying
with the other.
The goal for every new RC pilot is to
solo. It’s the same as with full-scale aircraft;
you must reach a point where you can take
off (or launch) the aircraft by yourself, fly
around the sky for a few minutes, line up,
make an approach, and land.
How long will it take to solo? That varies
with the student. There is no question that
younger students probably have better
coordination and maybe better eyesight, and
as a result they can learn sooner than older
people.
My student is 70 years old and is doing
quite well. My 65 years of age probably
makes me the oldest instructor pilot at our
field. I mention this to prove that you are
never too old for this wonderful hobby. On
the other end of the scale, you are never too
young either (within reason).
I generally set up a plan in which the
student will fly the airplane at altitude for
four to six flying sessions. During that time I
take off and land the model. Shortly into
each flight (during these first six sessions) I
try to get the student on the controls for most
of the flight time. Some instructors like to fly
and talk, then they don’t give the student the
proper amount of “stick” time. That won’t
cut it! You must let the student fly as much
as possible.
One of the most difficult aspects of
learning to fly an RC model is that you are
not seated inside it. You are at a fixed point
on the ground, holding the transmitter, while
the model flies around you. Because you are
not in the cockpit, the model will behave
differently depending on whether it is flying
toward you or away from you. Concentrate
on this point because it is important to the
overall learning process.
When the model travels away from you
(as if you are in the rear or behind the
airplane), you can apply right rudder and
observe the model beginning to turn to the
right. That’s all understandable and basic.
Now suppose the model is a few hundred
feet away and is coming toward you. If you
applied right rudder at that instant, the model
would turn (drop off) to your left. When the
model flies toward you, the rudder or turn
control will appear reversed. That is
definitely the most difficult aspect of
learning to fly.
Through the years I’ve taught several
airline pilots who couldn’t get that concept
straight and dropped out of the hobby. They
were used to sitting in the cockpit, where left
is always left and right is always right.
For years I have successfully used the
technique of leaning the control stick to the
side to which the model wants to turn. If the
airplane is coming toward you and begins to
turn to the right, but you want it to stay on a
straight path, lean the rudder stick to the side
to which the airplane is turning. By doing
that you have applied left rudder to the
model, and it will tend to straighten the flight
path. It’s a simple approach, but it works.
An alternate method when the model is
flying toward you is to turn around so that
most of your back is toward the model, then
look back over your shoulder. When you do
that, your right is right and left is left.
However, you could easily get confused if
the model is moving fast, so be careful.
Beyond this turning problem, the next
most important part of learning to fly is the
landing. I usually don’t let my student try
landing approaches until he or she has
roughly six flying sessions logged.
During the first few landing attempts I try
to talk the pilot down with detailed verbal
instructions. I try not to grab the transmitter
unless the student gets into a dive or steep
turn. It is of primary importance during the
landing process to get the student to
gradually reduce the motor throttle, which
slows the flying speed. The airplane must be
going slow to land properly. Too many new
students attempt to land by applying downelevator.
That speeds up the model, making
it impossible to land.
On the first few landings the only goal is
to get the model safely on the ground.
Exactly where it lands on the flying field is
unimportant; placement will improve as the
student does more landings on his or her
own.
If the student is lucky enough to have a
paved or close-cut grass runway, the goal
is to eventually land on it. If there are
trees around the perimeter of the site, the
student doesn’t want to end up in one!
Learning to land by himself or herself
takes a great deal of practice. The more
attempts the student makes, the better he
or she will get at it.
The frequency at which you learn to fly
is of vital importance. If you have a busy
schedule and can only get to the flying
field once a week or every several weeks,
you will not learn as fast.
Years ago I taught a fellow Grumman
engineer to fly by himself in two weeks.
We did that by flying four flights every
lunch hour for 10 working days. By
getting 40 flights in during two weeks, he
had it mastered.
Later I had the concept published in an
article and was accused of running an RC
pilot’s “boot camp.” It was an aggressive
approach to learning, and one must consider
that this is a hobby that is intended for fun
and relaxation. To be serious about learning,
you need to be out flying at least once a
week.
After learning to steer in the sky and land,
the last item is the takeoff or hand launch. Of
the three aspects of learning to fly, this is
usually the easiest. Hand launching may
seem difficult at first. You should be on the
transmitter, and let your instructor launch at
the beginning.
Get used to holding the transmitter in
your left hand while you launch (throw) the
model with your right. When doing this, it is
best to run a few steps with the model before
giving it a good heave-ho! As soon as you
release the model, try to get your right hand
on the control stick as quickly as possible. If
the wind tries to flip the model, at least you
will be in a position to correct the motion as
soon as possible.
Larger models are best taken off of the
ground, as an airplane should be. The
smoother the flying-field runway, the easier
this task will be. Tail-dragger models are
steered by the rudder and the tail wheel. This
type of configuration is more difficult to
maneuver on the ground than a tricycle-gear
setup, in which the nose wheel does the
steering in conjunction with the rudder.
In either case, try hard not to overcontrol
the steering. If the model tracks well on the
ground, let it do its thing until you have
sufficient flying speed, then haul back on the
elevator to rotate into the air.
When you get home from a flying session,
you might want to revisit that simulator if
you have one. Recharge your batteries to be
ready for the next flight session. Get into the
practice of giving your model a safety check.
Pull on the hinges and check the control rods
and their attachment points.
If your model’s wing is held on with
rubber bands, throw out the old ones. Use
new rubber bands each time you go to the
field. Check your propeller for any hairline
cracks. If you see even the slightest fracture,
replace the propeller without question. In a
later installment I will instruct you on how
to check all of your batteries since they are
the lifeblood of your system.
Next month, if time permits, I hope to have a
new electric-powered trainer for your
consideration. To enjoy our hobby to its
fullest, you should be able to build a model
from scratch. I’m going to present an
extremely simple model design that I would
like you to construct from raw materials that
are obtainable from any local hobby shop.
Full-size plans and many sequential
construction photos will be included to help
you along the way.
I also intend to take the entire electric
power system and the Hitec Neon RC system
out of the Pogo and transfer it into this new
model, which I’m calling the “Scratch-One.”
Until next time, how about those questions?
You must have some by now! MA
Bob Aberle
Sources:
RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Pogo aircraft:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Electric power system:
New Creations R/C (Kirk Massey)
Box 496
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
[email protected]
www.newcreations-rc.com
Simulators:
Dave Brown Products
4560 Layhigh Rd.
Hamilton OH 45013
(513) 738-1576
www.dbproducts.com
Tower Hobbies Inc.
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-4989
www.towerhobbies.com

THIS IS the seventh
consecutive installment
of this beginners’
series. In previous
articles you learned a
little about Radio
Control (RC)
equipment, how to
install that equipment,
and how to operate it. I
went on to describe a typical electric power
system for a model aircraft. Last month we
assembled an Almost Ready-to-Fly (ARF)
model into which we installed the RC system
and the electric power system.
Now, after six months of reading, you are
ready to venture out to a local flying field for
that first flight session.
In preparation for that first day at the field
I have a few preliminary suggestions.
Several of these items have already been
discussed, so consider this a final refresher
course. While still in your shop, remove the
propeller; an accidental motor start-up could
have your AeroCraft Pogo dashing around
your shop, and that could cause big
problems.
Check the balance point, or center of
gravity (CG). The Pogo instruction manual
indicates that the model should balance at a
point 2 inches back from the leading edge of
the wing. You can mark that exact point with
a felt-tipped marker for reference purposes.
Place your hands under the wing with one
finger (on each side of the pylon) touching
the balance point. Support the model with
these two fingers and allow it to rock back
and forth. If the model is nose-heavy, the
Pogo’s nose will dip forward. A tail-heavy
model will display the opposite effect. A
nose-heavy model might dive into the
ground, and a tail-heavy model might stall
and crash.
The battery pack accounts for more than
one-third of the total model weight. You can
use that weight to your advantage to help
balance the model. You would slide the
battery forward if the model was tail-heavy;
you would slide it toward the rear if it was
nose-heavy. When it achieves the proper
balance, the Pogo should be level when
supported by your two fingers.
If you are flying a fueled model,
you must take into account the
weight of the fuel and the fact that
it is burned off during the flight.
Engine expert/author Frank
Granelli will pick up on this subject in a
later installment.
Follow the start-up procedure by turning
on the transmitter, then turning on the
receiver. In the Pogo, the Jeti JES-10
Electronic Speed Control (ESC) has a main
power on/off switch. With power turned on
to both units (the transmitter and the aircraft),
the rudder and elevator should move when
you apply left/right or up/down motion to the
transmitter control stick.
Before doing anything, set your
transmitter trim levers for the rudder and
elevator to their neutral positions. Observe
66 MODEL AVIATION
The Pogo ARF’s
First Flights ■ Bob Aberle
Author’s student Jay Federman holds
AeroCraft Pogo that he will learn to fly. He
is quickly learning thrills and experiences
of flying RC models.
Before operating electric-powered model, remove propeller for safety reasons. If motor
started accidentally with propeller in place, it could cause extensive damage and/or
injury in your shop.
the rudder and elevator positions on the Pogo; both control surfaces
should be at neutral.
Since the Pogo employs pull-pull strings between the servos and
control surfaces, you really don’t have any mechanical means of
adjusting for an exact neutral position. Use your transmitter’s trim
levers to achieve those neutral positions. If you did everything correct
during the Pogo’s assembly, you should be close.
Move the control stick left and right (side to side) and notice the
direction in which the rudder moves. Looking from the rear of the
Pogo forward, applying right rudder control stick should cause the
rudder to move to the right. Try the left side to see if the rudder moves
to the left. Pull back on the transmitter control stick, and the elevator
should go up.
If the direction of control is backward, change the servo direction
for the affected channel at the transmitter. Most RC transmitters have
servo-reversing switches. On this Hitec Neon system you must open
the transmitter case, identify the proper cable, unplug it and rotate the
connector 180°, then plug it back in. By reversing the correct cable,
you reverse the direction of the servo.
The final step in this process is to check the position of the throttle
control. On the Hitec Neon the throttle or motor control is a lever on
the rear of the case that is operated by the index finger of your left
hand.
Most fliers set this motor-control lever so that moving away from
you (toward the right side of the transmitter case) would be high
throttle (full speed). Bringing the lever toward you (to the left side of
the transmitter case) would be idle and/or motor off. A cable inside
the Neon case can be rotated 180°, effecting reversal of motion for
that channel function.
The last item in this sequence of control checks is the amount of
throw that the rudder and elevator make. Most kit manufacturers will
give you a start-up guide. For the Pogo, a good starting point is for the
rudder to move 1⁄2 inch either side of the neutral position and the
elevator to move approximately 1⁄4 inch either side of neutral.
If you have the dual rate and endpoint options installed on your
Neon transmitter, setting these control throws (excursions) is easy.
Place a small ruler next to the rudder. Hold the transmitter rudder
control stick hard over, and dial the endpoint control adjustment (with
a screwdriver) until you have the 1⁄2 inch of rudder throw. Repeat this
process for the elevator using the separate endpoint adjustment for
that channel function.
After your first few flights you will be able to go back and make
final adjustments based on recommendations you get from your
instructor pilot.
For safety’s sake, physically pull on your model’s rudder and
elevator to make sure that the hinges have been properly secured. If
the control surface comes off in your hand, you didn’t do the job right
and better try again.
The Pogo employs a pull/pull control-cord system to connect the
servos to the control surfaces. Short of a cord breaking, not much can
happen. If you use control rods or wires, make sure that all connection
points (to the servo output arm as well as the control horn) are secured
properly with keepers, tape, or whatever.
Before heading out to the flying field, spend a little time sitting by
your workbench and operating the controls. For short periods of time
you can do this with the transmitter antenna partially collapsed
(retracted into the case).
Always keep in mind your location with respect to a local flying
field. If one is close by, you could cause interference for another
modeler even while operating the system indoors (from your shop).
Remember that!
As you move the transmitter control stick, watch the control
surfaces move. Try to visualize what is happening. Get into the habit
of moving the control stick smoothly and slowly; yanking it over hard
might cause the aircraft to make a violent maneuver.
In the same regard, always hold onto the control stick. Don’t move
it hard over and let go, allowing the spring to bring the stick back to
the neutral position. Doing this will make the model react violently, or
at least look “jerky” in the sky.
You might also want to try one of the popular model-aircraft
simulators that are on the market. Several simulators are available that
can be adapted to your personal computer (PC). The heart of the
simulator system is specially designed software (usually on a compact
disc). You attach a transmitterlike device, with control sticks, into
your PC, much as you would a mouse. As you impart control
commands through these sticks, the model images move on your PC
monitor.
September 2003 67
Author operates Pogo in his basement shop. Student should be
familiar with control movements before heading out to flying field
the first time.
RC transmitter charges the night before going to flying field.
Battery pack charges at home before heading to field.
Transmitter, flight-pack batteries should be fully charged before
you leave for the field.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia
The simulator is quite realistic and offers excellent training
capabilities. It can be important before your first flight, and it can
continue to be of assistance as you progress through your flight
lessons. Guest author Mark Lanterman will soon write an installment
about simulators.
Charge both sets of batteries (transmitter and receiver, or the main
power battery if you are dealing with electric power) the night before
you intend to fly. Try to make arrangements to have an instructor pilot
with you at the flying field. Make a few trips out to the local flying
site to introduce yourself, possibly take steps to join a club, and at that
time inquire about getting a regular instructor. Try to stay with the
same pilot during the learning process.
Early on, local fliers or an Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA)
club member will make a point of suggesting that you join AMA,
which, of course, publishes this magazine. It also offers all members
an excellent supplemental insurance protection plan.
Most model-aircraft clubs will insist, as a prerequisite to joining,
that you apply and become an AMA member. For more details about
AMA benefits, the Safety Code, and membership, go to
www.modelaircraft.org.
Before leaving for the flying field, make sure you have packed
everything necessary; you will need a toolbox containing some of the
basic modeling tools. Plan on breaking many propellers while
68 MODEL AVIATION
This shows setting a 1⁄2-inch rudder throw using the endpoint
adjustment control on the Hitec Neon transmitter.
Check to make sure that control-stick movement actually moves
control surface (rudder, elevator) in correct direction.
The center of gravity (CG) point has been marked on top of the
wing. The model must balance at this point.
Put finger underneath Pogo at CG point. Let model seek its own
level. Battery pack can be shifted forward or aft to make balance
come out level. Avoid nose-heavy or tail-heavy situation.
Pull on elevator, rudder hinges to make sure they are securely
cemented in place. You don’t want control surface falling off in flight.
learning to fly, so have extras on hand. You
might want to bring some CyA
(cyanoacrylate glue) for any quick repairs.
Of course, don’t forget your battery charger
and transmitter.
The best idea is to have a preprinted
packing list so you can check off all of the
items. I have to travel 40 minutes to my
flying field; if I were to forget an important
item, I might not be able to fly that day.
You should also get into the habit of
checking the weather before you start your
trip to the field. If strong winds are
forecasted, it might not be the day for you. It
is usually a good idea on a first-flight day,
or while you are learning to fly, to seek out
early-morning or early-evening times when
the winds are likely to be calm. Beginning
pilots don’t need to contend with high
winds!
When you finally get to the flying field,
hopefully you can quickly meet up with
your instructor. I keep harping on the
“instructor” because it is the best way to
learn. You can still learn to fly if you are
literally all by yourself, but it is surely going
to take longer.
Locate the frequency control board right
away. It will probably contain a clip for
each of the 50 aircraft RC channels. If your
RC transmitter operates on CH-52, obtain
the pin (or clip) for that channel number.
If that clip is on the frequency control
board, it is not in use. Secure it to your
transmitter antenna. If others go to fly on
CH-52 and find the clip missing from the
board, they will have to wait their turn, until
the clip is returned. Remember that only one
person can operate on a specific channel at a
time.
There is a variation of this frequency
clip-board concept where each member
brings a pin with his or her name written on
it. The frequency board at the field contains
all 50 channel numbers, and you place your
clip on the same channel number as your
transmitter. That lets all others know that
your channel is in use. They also will know
by name who is using it. Either way works!
Let your instructor get familiar with your
model, try out the controls, and verify
everything you have done at home in your
shop (check the balance point, control
directions, amount of throw, hinges, control
linkage, etc.).
Now is a good time to perform a radio
range check of your system. As I explained
in a previous article, turn on your
transmitter, then your receiver, and leave the
transmitter antenna collapsed or retracted as
much as possible.
You can leave the model on the ground
and, while holding the transmitter, hit one
control such as right rudder as you slowly
walk away from the model. The control
should operate in a solid or positive manner.
Keep walking until you reach a point at
which the rudder gets jittery.
You should be 50-100 feet from the
model when this happens, but the exact
distance will vary from radio to radio and
will depend on how much of the transmitter
September 2003 69
A type of frequency-control board. You bring a clip with your
name on it. When you want to fly, put clip on same channel
number as your transmitter. Another version has same board
with 50 clips—one for each channel. Place clip for your
frequency on your transmitter antenna. Any person who finds
clip missing from board knows that someone else is using
channel and must wait to fly.
Frequency channel-number placard must be affixed to antenna of
any transmitter. Number placard and red flag are usually
supplied with each new RC system.
Jay places his “name tag” on RC channel he will use. You must
do this before turning on power to transmitter. Failure to do so
could result in crash and possible injury.
antenna is actually exposed.
If for some reason you only get to 10
feet, you have a problem for sure. Your
instructor will have to work it out with you.
That usually doesn’t happen often since
today’s radio equipment is quite reliable in
general.
One more check is important. Turn on
your motor and have a helper hold the model
while you walk away with the transmitter.
You should obtain roughly the same distance
as when the motor is off.
A marked reduction in range with the
motor running indicates that the motor
system is causing a form of interference that
is getting to your radio. This must be
investigated before your first flight.
When turning that motor on for the first
time, make sure you verify that it is running
in the proper direction. The wind that the
propeller generates should be blowing
toward the back end of the model. If it’s not,
your motor polarity is backward and must be
corrected.
As an instructor I like to take the model
up for its first flight. Our flying field is rough
because it’s part dirt and part cut-down
weeds. Larger models can take off from the
ground, but the smaller parking-lot and
Speed 400 models (such as the Pogo) are best
hand launched.
On the first flight you are never really
sure what is going to happen. The model
might be out of trim and could drop off to the
left or the right. That requires fast reflexes on
the instructor’s part. So for those potential
problems, it is best to let the instructor make
the first flight.
The Pogo literally flew right out of my
hand, gaining altitude quickly and without
any tendency to fall off to either side. Once it
was up to roughly 50 feet of altitude, I began
making a few routine turns and learned that
the amount of control throw was perfect. No
adjustment in control travel would be
necessary.
I operated the motor speed control and
found that it was possible to fly the Pogo
with as little as half throttle. Doing that I was
able to slow the flying speed considerably,
which is what the student would want
initially.
My student was my retired family
internist Jay Federman. Jay has heard me talk
about RC models for more than 35 years and
got the idea that this would be a pleasant
source of retirement relaxation.
With the Pogo at a reasonably high
altitude, I let Jay have the transmitter for the
first time as I talked him through a few gentle
turns. We did this for a few minutes, and I
realized that it certainly is a demanding
experience the first time. I took over and
landed the Pogo at a slow speed, to the
pleasure of all who were present, and the
first flight was finished.
70 MODEL AVIATION
He grasps control stick with two fingers. Either way, don’t let go
and let it spring back to neutral position.
There are several ways to hold or grip transmitter control stick; it
is up to you. Author’s thumb is on top of stick.
RC system is ground range-tested with transmitter antenna
almost completely collapsed. You should be able to obtain solid
radio contact for 50-100 feet (between transmitter, aircraft)
without motor running, then with motor running.
Author makes Pogo’s first flight to check it out before Jay tries.
Bob holds transmitter with left hand while hand launching model
with right hand. It is best to run a few steps to get model up to
speed. If you have a paved runway at your field, try taking model
off of ground.
There are several approaches to learning to fly an RC model. The
simplest is for the instructor and student to share one radio transmitter
and pass it back and forth. If the student is flying and gets into
trouble, the instructor grabs the transmitter and takes over. When
learning, it is a good idea to keep the model at a substantial altitude so
that there is plenty of time for the instructor to grab the transmitter
long before the model crashes.
Another approach is to use a “trainer cable.” It will work with the
brand of transmitters that also have trainer-cable connectors. You buy
the cable as an accessory item and connect it to the rear of both
transmitters.
The primary transmitter—the one broadcasting the signal—is the
one the instructor holds; in this case it is the Hitec Neon singlecontrol-
stick transmitter. The end of the cable marked “Master” was
plugged in it. The other end of the cable marked “Student” went into
my Hitec Eclipse transmitter.
Unfortunately that means that the student would be flying with a
dual-stick-assembly transmitter while learning. Once on his own, he
would have to go back to his single-stick Neon. I didn’t like that idea,
so we abandoned the trainer cable for this series.
If you choose to use a trainer cable, it would be best to have two
Bob’s finger points to Hitec Neon’s long-handled trainer switch. When he pulls on switch and holds it on, control of model is
transferred to Jay and Hitec Eclipse he is holding. To take back control, Bob lets go of switch, then he is flying again. This easy
transfer of control can be better than passing a transmitter back and forth.
This flight shot of the Pogo is especially good since it clearly
shows the RC receiver antenna trailing behind.
Fast charge at field between flights using power from car battery.
Bob’s Honda Odyssey’s hood is open. At left is his homemade
cooling tube with battery pack sticking out. Fan built into tube
helps cool battery after a flight. At right is WattAge PF-12 AC/DC
peak-detect charger. This eight-cell, 1100 mAh battery gets
charged at maximum current of roughly 2 amps. It should take 30
minutes or slightly less to reach full charge.
Young modeler at Toledo Weak Signals RC show tries Dave
Brown Products RC simulator. Commands youngster puts in
with control stick (like a transmitter) cause model image on PC
monitor to look as if it is flying. It’s an excellent learning tool for
RC beginners. Several systems are available.
September 2003 71
identical transmitters. Keep in mind that with
a trainer-cable system the instructor need
only release that long-handled switch
(located at the top left corner of the
transmitter case) to regain control of the
model. He or she doesn’t have to grab the
transmitter from the student. That is the
primary feature of a trainer-cable system.
We logged five flights—each five to
seven minutes in duration—during our first
day at the field with the Pogo. The battery
pack was removed from the model after each
landing. (It is held in place with a few rubber
bands.) The battery was allowed to cool
before recharging was initiated.
A cooling tube (4-inch-diameter
polyvinyl-chloride pipe with a 12-volt
electric fan mounted on one end) was used to
quickly cool the battery after each flight. It
takes approximately 10 minutes to get the
battery cool, then 20-30 minutes (with the
charger set at 2 amps) to fully recharge the
battery. If you bought a second battery pack,
you could have one on charge while flying
with the other.
The goal for every new RC pilot is to
solo. It’s the same as with full-scale aircraft;
you must reach a point where you can take
off (or launch) the aircraft by yourself, fly
around the sky for a few minutes, line up,
make an approach, and land.
How long will it take to solo? That varies
with the student. There is no question that
younger students probably have better
coordination and maybe better eyesight, and
as a result they can learn sooner than older
people.
My student is 70 years old and is doing
quite well. My 65 years of age probably
makes me the oldest instructor pilot at our
field. I mention this to prove that you are
never too old for this wonderful hobby. On
the other end of the scale, you are never too
young either (within reason).
I generally set up a plan in which the
student will fly the airplane at altitude for
four to six flying sessions. During that time I
take off and land the model. Shortly into
each flight (during these first six sessions) I
try to get the student on the controls for most
of the flight time. Some instructors like to fly
and talk, then they don’t give the student the
proper amount of “stick” time. That won’t
cut it! You must let the student fly as much
as possible.
One of the most difficult aspects of
learning to fly an RC model is that you are
not seated inside it. You are at a fixed point
on the ground, holding the transmitter, while
the model flies around you. Because you are
not in the cockpit, the model will behave
differently depending on whether it is flying
toward you or away from you. Concentrate
on this point because it is important to the
overall learning process.
When the model travels away from you
(as if you are in the rear or behind the
airplane), you can apply right rudder and
observe the model beginning to turn to the
right. That’s all understandable and basic.
Now suppose the model is a few hundred
feet away and is coming toward you. If you
applied right rudder at that instant, the model
would turn (drop off) to your left. When the
model flies toward you, the rudder or turn
control will appear reversed. That is
definitely the most difficult aspect of
learning to fly.
Through the years I’ve taught several
airline pilots who couldn’t get that concept
straight and dropped out of the hobby. They
were used to sitting in the cockpit, where left
is always left and right is always right.
For years I have successfully used the
technique of leaning the control stick to the
side to which the model wants to turn. If the
airplane is coming toward you and begins to
turn to the right, but you want it to stay on a
straight path, lean the rudder stick to the side
to which the airplane is turning. By doing
that you have applied left rudder to the
model, and it will tend to straighten the flight
path. It’s a simple approach, but it works.
An alternate method when the model is
flying toward you is to turn around so that
most of your back is toward the model, then
look back over your shoulder. When you do
that, your right is right and left is left.
However, you could easily get confused if
the model is moving fast, so be careful.
Beyond this turning problem, the next
most important part of learning to fly is the
landing. I usually don’t let my student try
landing approaches until he or she has
roughly six flying sessions logged.
During the first few landing attempts I try
to talk the pilot down with detailed verbal
instructions. I try not to grab the transmitter
unless the student gets into a dive or steep
turn. It is of primary importance during the
landing process to get the student to
gradually reduce the motor throttle, which
slows the flying speed. The airplane must be
going slow to land properly. Too many new
students attempt to land by applying downelevator.
That speeds up the model, making
it impossible to land.
On the first few landings the only goal is
to get the model safely on the ground.
Exactly where it lands on the flying field is
unimportant; placement will improve as the
student does more landings on his or her
own.
If the student is lucky enough to have a
paved or close-cut grass runway, the goal
is to eventually land on it. If there are
trees around the perimeter of the site, the
student doesn’t want to end up in one!
Learning to land by himself or herself
takes a great deal of practice. The more
attempts the student makes, the better he
or she will get at it.
The frequency at which you learn to fly
is of vital importance. If you have a busy
schedule and can only get to the flying
field once a week or every several weeks,
you will not learn as fast.
Years ago I taught a fellow Grumman
engineer to fly by himself in two weeks.
We did that by flying four flights every
lunch hour for 10 working days. By
getting 40 flights in during two weeks, he
had it mastered.
Later I had the concept published in an
article and was accused of running an RC
pilot’s “boot camp.” It was an aggressive
approach to learning, and one must consider
that this is a hobby that is intended for fun
and relaxation. To be serious about learning,
you need to be out flying at least once a
week.
After learning to steer in the sky and land,
the last item is the takeoff or hand launch. Of
the three aspects of learning to fly, this is
usually the easiest. Hand launching may
seem difficult at first. You should be on the
transmitter, and let your instructor launch at
the beginning.
Get used to holding the transmitter in
your left hand while you launch (throw) the
model with your right. When doing this, it is
best to run a few steps with the model before
giving it a good heave-ho! As soon as you
release the model, try to get your right hand
on the control stick as quickly as possible. If
the wind tries to flip the model, at least you
will be in a position to correct the motion as
soon as possible.
Larger models are best taken off of the
ground, as an airplane should be. The
smoother the flying-field runway, the easier
this task will be. Tail-dragger models are
steered by the rudder and the tail wheel. This
type of configuration is more difficult to
maneuver on the ground than a tricycle-gear
setup, in which the nose wheel does the
steering in conjunction with the rudder.
In either case, try hard not to overcontrol
the steering. If the model tracks well on the
ground, let it do its thing until you have
sufficient flying speed, then haul back on the
elevator to rotate into the air.
When you get home from a flying session,
you might want to revisit that simulator if
you have one. Recharge your batteries to be
ready for the next flight session. Get into the
practice of giving your model a safety check.
Pull on the hinges and check the control rods
and their attachment points.
If your model’s wing is held on with
rubber bands, throw out the old ones. Use
new rubber bands each time you go to the
field. Check your propeller for any hairline
cracks. If you see even the slightest fracture,
replace the propeller without question. In a
later installment I will instruct you on how
to check all of your batteries since they are
the lifeblood of your system.
Next month, if time permits, I hope to have a
new electric-powered trainer for your
consideration. To enjoy our hobby to its
fullest, you should be able to build a model
from scratch. I’m going to present an
extremely simple model design that I would
like you to construct from raw materials that
are obtainable from any local hobby shop.
Full-size plans and many sequential
construction photos will be included to help
you along the way.
I also intend to take the entire electric
power system and the Hitec Neon RC system
out of the Pogo and transfer it into this new
model, which I’m calling the “Scratch-One.”
Until next time, how about those questions?
You must have some by now! MA
Bob Aberle
Sources:
RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Pogo aircraft:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Electric power system:
New Creations R/C (Kirk Massey)
Box 496
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
[email protected]
www.newcreations-rc.com
Simulators:
Dave Brown Products
4560 Layhigh Rd.
Hamilton OH 45013
(513) 738-1576
www.dbproducts.com
Tower Hobbies Inc.
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-4989
www.towerhobbies.com

THIS IS the seventh
consecutive installment
of this beginners’
series. In previous
articles you learned a
little about Radio
Control (RC)
equipment, how to
install that equipment,
and how to operate it. I
went on to describe a typical electric power
system for a model aircraft. Last month we
assembled an Almost Ready-to-Fly (ARF)
model into which we installed the RC system
and the electric power system.
Now, after six months of reading, you are
ready to venture out to a local flying field for
that first flight session.
In preparation for that first day at the field
I have a few preliminary suggestions.
Several of these items have already been
discussed, so consider this a final refresher
course. While still in your shop, remove the
propeller; an accidental motor start-up could
have your AeroCraft Pogo dashing around
your shop, and that could cause big
problems.
Check the balance point, or center of
gravity (CG). The Pogo instruction manual
indicates that the model should balance at a
point 2 inches back from the leading edge of
the wing. You can mark that exact point with
a felt-tipped marker for reference purposes.
Place your hands under the wing with one
finger (on each side of the pylon) touching
the balance point. Support the model with
these two fingers and allow it to rock back
and forth. If the model is nose-heavy, the
Pogo’s nose will dip forward. A tail-heavy
model will display the opposite effect. A
nose-heavy model might dive into the
ground, and a tail-heavy model might stall
and crash.
The battery pack accounts for more than
one-third of the total model weight. You can
use that weight to your advantage to help
balance the model. You would slide the
battery forward if the model was tail-heavy;
you would slide it toward the rear if it was
nose-heavy. When it achieves the proper
balance, the Pogo should be level when
supported by your two fingers.
If you are flying a fueled model,
you must take into account the
weight of the fuel and the fact that
it is burned off during the flight.
Engine expert/author Frank
Granelli will pick up on this subject in a
later installment.
Follow the start-up procedure by turning
on the transmitter, then turning on the
receiver. In the Pogo, the Jeti JES-10
Electronic Speed Control (ESC) has a main
power on/off switch. With power turned on
to both units (the transmitter and the aircraft),
the rudder and elevator should move when
you apply left/right or up/down motion to the
transmitter control stick.
Before doing anything, set your
transmitter trim levers for the rudder and
elevator to their neutral positions. Observe
66 MODEL AVIATION
The Pogo ARF’s
First Flights ■ Bob Aberle
Author’s student Jay Federman holds
AeroCraft Pogo that he will learn to fly. He
is quickly learning thrills and experiences
of flying RC models.
Before operating electric-powered model, remove propeller for safety reasons. If motor
started accidentally with propeller in place, it could cause extensive damage and/or
injury in your shop.
the rudder and elevator positions on the Pogo; both control surfaces
should be at neutral.
Since the Pogo employs pull-pull strings between the servos and
control surfaces, you really don’t have any mechanical means of
adjusting for an exact neutral position. Use your transmitter’s trim
levers to achieve those neutral positions. If you did everything correct
during the Pogo’s assembly, you should be close.
Move the control stick left and right (side to side) and notice the
direction in which the rudder moves. Looking from the rear of the
Pogo forward, applying right rudder control stick should cause the
rudder to move to the right. Try the left side to see if the rudder moves
to the left. Pull back on the transmitter control stick, and the elevator
should go up.
If the direction of control is backward, change the servo direction
for the affected channel at the transmitter. Most RC transmitters have
servo-reversing switches. On this Hitec Neon system you must open
the transmitter case, identify the proper cable, unplug it and rotate the
connector 180°, then plug it back in. By reversing the correct cable,
you reverse the direction of the servo.
The final step in this process is to check the position of the throttle
control. On the Hitec Neon the throttle or motor control is a lever on
the rear of the case that is operated by the index finger of your left
hand.
Most fliers set this motor-control lever so that moving away from
you (toward the right side of the transmitter case) would be high
throttle (full speed). Bringing the lever toward you (to the left side of
the transmitter case) would be idle and/or motor off. A cable inside
the Neon case can be rotated 180°, effecting reversal of motion for
that channel function.
The last item in this sequence of control checks is the amount of
throw that the rudder and elevator make. Most kit manufacturers will
give you a start-up guide. For the Pogo, a good starting point is for the
rudder to move 1⁄2 inch either side of the neutral position and the
elevator to move approximately 1⁄4 inch either side of neutral.
If you have the dual rate and endpoint options installed on your
Neon transmitter, setting these control throws (excursions) is easy.
Place a small ruler next to the rudder. Hold the transmitter rudder
control stick hard over, and dial the endpoint control adjustment (with
a screwdriver) until you have the 1⁄2 inch of rudder throw. Repeat this
process for the elevator using the separate endpoint adjustment for
that channel function.
After your first few flights you will be able to go back and make
final adjustments based on recommendations you get from your
instructor pilot.
For safety’s sake, physically pull on your model’s rudder and
elevator to make sure that the hinges have been properly secured. If
the control surface comes off in your hand, you didn’t do the job right
and better try again.
The Pogo employs a pull/pull control-cord system to connect the
servos to the control surfaces. Short of a cord breaking, not much can
happen. If you use control rods or wires, make sure that all connection
points (to the servo output arm as well as the control horn) are secured
properly with keepers, tape, or whatever.
Before heading out to the flying field, spend a little time sitting by
your workbench and operating the controls. For short periods of time
you can do this with the transmitter antenna partially collapsed
(retracted into the case).
Always keep in mind your location with respect to a local flying
field. If one is close by, you could cause interference for another
modeler even while operating the system indoors (from your shop).
Remember that!
As you move the transmitter control stick, watch the control
surfaces move. Try to visualize what is happening. Get into the habit
of moving the control stick smoothly and slowly; yanking it over hard
might cause the aircraft to make a violent maneuver.
In the same regard, always hold onto the control stick. Don’t move
it hard over and let go, allowing the spring to bring the stick back to
the neutral position. Doing this will make the model react violently, or
at least look “jerky” in the sky.
You might also want to try one of the popular model-aircraft
simulators that are on the market. Several simulators are available that
can be adapted to your personal computer (PC). The heart of the
simulator system is specially designed software (usually on a compact
disc). You attach a transmitterlike device, with control sticks, into
your PC, much as you would a mouse. As you impart control
commands through these sticks, the model images move on your PC
monitor.
September 2003 67
Author operates Pogo in his basement shop. Student should be
familiar with control movements before heading out to flying field
the first time.
RC transmitter charges the night before going to flying field.
Battery pack charges at home before heading to field.
Transmitter, flight-pack batteries should be fully charged before
you leave for the field.
Photos courtesy the author Graphic Design by Lydia
The simulator is quite realistic and offers excellent training
capabilities. It can be important before your first flight, and it can
continue to be of assistance as you progress through your flight
lessons. Guest author Mark Lanterman will soon write an installment
about simulators.
Charge both sets of batteries (transmitter and receiver, or the main
power battery if you are dealing with electric power) the night before
you intend to fly. Try to make arrangements to have an instructor pilot
with you at the flying field. Make a few trips out to the local flying
site to introduce yourself, possibly take steps to join a club, and at that
time inquire about getting a regular instructor. Try to stay with the
same pilot during the learning process.
Early on, local fliers or an Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA)
club member will make a point of suggesting that you join AMA,
which, of course, publishes this magazine. It also offers all members
an excellent supplemental insurance protection plan.
Most model-aircraft clubs will insist, as a prerequisite to joining,
that you apply and become an AMA member. For more details about
AMA benefits, the Safety Code, and membership, go to
www.modelaircraft.org.
Before leaving for the flying field, make sure you have packed
everything necessary; you will need a toolbox containing some of the
basic modeling tools. Plan on breaking many propellers while
68 MODEL AVIATION
This shows setting a 1⁄2-inch rudder throw using the endpoint
adjustment control on the Hitec Neon transmitter.
Check to make sure that control-stick movement actually moves
control surface (rudder, elevator) in correct direction.
The center of gravity (CG) point has been marked on top of the
wing. The model must balance at this point.
Put finger underneath Pogo at CG point. Let model seek its own
level. Battery pack can be shifted forward or aft to make balance
come out level. Avoid nose-heavy or tail-heavy situation.
Pull on elevator, rudder hinges to make sure they are securely
cemented in place. You don’t want control surface falling off in flight.
learning to fly, so have extras on hand. You
might want to bring some CyA
(cyanoacrylate glue) for any quick repairs.
Of course, don’t forget your battery charger
and transmitter.
The best idea is to have a preprinted
packing list so you can check off all of the
items. I have to travel 40 minutes to my
flying field; if I were to forget an important
item, I might not be able to fly that day.
You should also get into the habit of
checking the weather before you start your
trip to the field. If strong winds are
forecasted, it might not be the day for you. It
is usually a good idea on a first-flight day,
or while you are learning to fly, to seek out
early-morning or early-evening times when
the winds are likely to be calm. Beginning
pilots don’t need to contend with high
winds!
When you finally get to the flying field,
hopefully you can quickly meet up with
your instructor. I keep harping on the
“instructor” because it is the best way to
learn. You can still learn to fly if you are
literally all by yourself, but it is surely going
to take longer.
Locate the frequency control board right
away. It will probably contain a clip for
each of the 50 aircraft RC channels. If your
RC transmitter operates on CH-52, obtain
the pin (or clip) for that channel number.
If that clip is on the frequency control
board, it is not in use. Secure it to your
transmitter antenna. If others go to fly on
CH-52 and find the clip missing from the
board, they will have to wait their turn, until
the clip is returned. Remember that only one
person can operate on a specific channel at a
time.
There is a variation of this frequency
clip-board concept where each member
brings a pin with his or her name written on
it. The frequency board at the field contains
all 50 channel numbers, and you place your
clip on the same channel number as your
transmitter. That lets all others know that
your channel is in use. They also will know
by name who is using it. Either way works!
Let your instructor get familiar with your
model, try out the controls, and verify
everything you have done at home in your
shop (check the balance point, control
directions, amount of throw, hinges, control
linkage, etc.).
Now is a good time to perform a radio
range check of your system. As I explained
in a previous article, turn on your
transmitter, then your receiver, and leave the
transmitter antenna collapsed or retracted as
much as possible.
You can leave the model on the ground
and, while holding the transmitter, hit one
control such as right rudder as you slowly
walk away from the model. The control
should operate in a solid or positive manner.
Keep walking until you reach a point at
which the rudder gets jittery.
You should be 50-100 feet from the
model when this happens, but the exact
distance will vary from radio to radio and
will depend on how much of the transmitter
September 2003 69
A type of frequency-control board. You bring a clip with your
name on it. When you want to fly, put clip on same channel
number as your transmitter. Another version has same board
with 50 clips—one for each channel. Place clip for your
frequency on your transmitter antenna. Any person who finds
clip missing from board knows that someone else is using
channel and must wait to fly.
Frequency channel-number placard must be affixed to antenna of
any transmitter. Number placard and red flag are usually
supplied with each new RC system.
Jay places his “name tag” on RC channel he will use. You must
do this before turning on power to transmitter. Failure to do so
could result in crash and possible injury.
antenna is actually exposed.
If for some reason you only get to 10
feet, you have a problem for sure. Your
instructor will have to work it out with you.
That usually doesn’t happen often since
today’s radio equipment is quite reliable in
general.
One more check is important. Turn on
your motor and have a helper hold the model
while you walk away with the transmitter.
You should obtain roughly the same distance
as when the motor is off.
A marked reduction in range with the
motor running indicates that the motor
system is causing a form of interference that
is getting to your radio. This must be
investigated before your first flight.
When turning that motor on for the first
time, make sure you verify that it is running
in the proper direction. The wind that the
propeller generates should be blowing
toward the back end of the model. If it’s not,
your motor polarity is backward and must be
corrected.
As an instructor I like to take the model
up for its first flight. Our flying field is rough
because it’s part dirt and part cut-down
weeds. Larger models can take off from the
ground, but the smaller parking-lot and
Speed 400 models (such as the Pogo) are best
hand launched.
On the first flight you are never really
sure what is going to happen. The model
might be out of trim and could drop off to the
left or the right. That requires fast reflexes on
the instructor’s part. So for those potential
problems, it is best to let the instructor make
the first flight.
The Pogo literally flew right out of my
hand, gaining altitude quickly and without
any tendency to fall off to either side. Once it
was up to roughly 50 feet of altitude, I began
making a few routine turns and learned that
the amount of control throw was perfect. No
adjustment in control travel would be
necessary.
I operated the motor speed control and
found that it was possible to fly the Pogo
with as little as half throttle. Doing that I was
able to slow the flying speed considerably,
which is what the student would want
initially.
My student was my retired family
internist Jay Federman. Jay has heard me talk
about RC models for more than 35 years and
got the idea that this would be a pleasant
source of retirement relaxation.
With the Pogo at a reasonably high
altitude, I let Jay have the transmitter for the
first time as I talked him through a few gentle
turns. We did this for a few minutes, and I
realized that it certainly is a demanding
experience the first time. I took over and
landed the Pogo at a slow speed, to the
pleasure of all who were present, and the
first flight was finished.
70 MODEL AVIATION
He grasps control stick with two fingers. Either way, don’t let go
and let it spring back to neutral position.
There are several ways to hold or grip transmitter control stick; it
is up to you. Author’s thumb is on top of stick.
RC system is ground range-tested with transmitter antenna
almost completely collapsed. You should be able to obtain solid
radio contact for 50-100 feet (between transmitter, aircraft)
without motor running, then with motor running.
Author makes Pogo’s first flight to check it out before Jay tries.
Bob holds transmitter with left hand while hand launching model
with right hand. It is best to run a few steps to get model up to
speed. If you have a paved runway at your field, try taking model
off of ground.
There are several approaches to learning to fly an RC model. The
simplest is for the instructor and student to share one radio transmitter
and pass it back and forth. If the student is flying and gets into
trouble, the instructor grabs the transmitter and takes over. When
learning, it is a good idea to keep the model at a substantial altitude so
that there is plenty of time for the instructor to grab the transmitter
long before the model crashes.
Another approach is to use a “trainer cable.” It will work with the
brand of transmitters that also have trainer-cable connectors. You buy
the cable as an accessory item and connect it to the rear of both
transmitters.
The primary transmitter—the one broadcasting the signal—is the
one the instructor holds; in this case it is the Hitec Neon singlecontrol-
stick transmitter. The end of the cable marked “Master” was
plugged in it. The other end of the cable marked “Student” went into
my Hitec Eclipse transmitter.
Unfortunately that means that the student would be flying with a
dual-stick-assembly transmitter while learning. Once on his own, he
would have to go back to his single-stick Neon. I didn’t like that idea,
so we abandoned the trainer cable for this series.
If you choose to use a trainer cable, it would be best to have two
Bob’s finger points to Hitec Neon’s long-handled trainer switch. When he pulls on switch and holds it on, control of model is
transferred to Jay and Hitec Eclipse he is holding. To take back control, Bob lets go of switch, then he is flying again. This easy
transfer of control can be better than passing a transmitter back and forth.
This flight shot of the Pogo is especially good since it clearly
shows the RC receiver antenna trailing behind.
Fast charge at field between flights using power from car battery.
Bob’s Honda Odyssey’s hood is open. At left is his homemade
cooling tube with battery pack sticking out. Fan built into tube
helps cool battery after a flight. At right is WattAge PF-12 AC/DC
peak-detect charger. This eight-cell, 1100 mAh battery gets
charged at maximum current of roughly 2 amps. It should take 30
minutes or slightly less to reach full charge.
Young modeler at Toledo Weak Signals RC show tries Dave
Brown Products RC simulator. Commands youngster puts in
with control stick (like a transmitter) cause model image on PC
monitor to look as if it is flying. It’s an excellent learning tool for
RC beginners. Several systems are available.
September 2003 71
identical transmitters. Keep in mind that with
a trainer-cable system the instructor need
only release that long-handled switch
(located at the top left corner of the
transmitter case) to regain control of the
model. He or she doesn’t have to grab the
transmitter from the student. That is the
primary feature of a trainer-cable system.
We logged five flights—each five to
seven minutes in duration—during our first
day at the field with the Pogo. The battery
pack was removed from the model after each
landing. (It is held in place with a few rubber
bands.) The battery was allowed to cool
before recharging was initiated.
A cooling tube (4-inch-diameter
polyvinyl-chloride pipe with a 12-volt
electric fan mounted on one end) was used to
quickly cool the battery after each flight. It
takes approximately 10 minutes to get the
battery cool, then 20-30 minutes (with the
charger set at 2 amps) to fully recharge the
battery. If you bought a second battery pack,
you could have one on charge while flying
with the other.
The goal for every new RC pilot is to
solo. It’s the same as with full-scale aircraft;
you must reach a point where you can take
off (or launch) the aircraft by yourself, fly
around the sky for a few minutes, line up,
make an approach, and land.
How long will it take to solo? That varies
with the student. There is no question that
younger students probably have better
coordination and maybe better eyesight, and
as a result they can learn sooner than older
people.
My student is 70 years old and is doing
quite well. My 65 years of age probably
makes me the oldest instructor pilot at our
field. I mention this to prove that you are
never too old for this wonderful hobby. On
the other end of the scale, you are never too
young either (within reason).
I generally set up a plan in which the
student will fly the airplane at altitude for
four to six flying sessions. During that time I
take off and land the model. Shortly into
each flight (during these first six sessions) I
try to get the student on the controls for most
of the flight time. Some instructors like to fly
and talk, then they don’t give the student the
proper amount of “stick” time. That won’t
cut it! You must let the student fly as much
as possible.
One of the most difficult aspects of
learning to fly an RC model is that you are
not seated inside it. You are at a fixed point
on the ground, holding the transmitter, while
the model flies around you. Because you are
not in the cockpit, the model will behave
differently depending on whether it is flying
toward you or away from you. Concentrate
on this point because it is important to the
overall learning process.
When the model travels away from you
(as if you are in the rear or behind the
airplane), you can apply right rudder and
observe the model beginning to turn to the
right. That’s all understandable and basic.
Now suppose the model is a few hundred
feet away and is coming toward you. If you
applied right rudder at that instant, the model
would turn (drop off) to your left. When the
model flies toward you, the rudder or turn
control will appear reversed. That is
definitely the most difficult aspect of
learning to fly.
Through the years I’ve taught several
airline pilots who couldn’t get that concept
straight and dropped out of the hobby. They
were used to sitting in the cockpit, where left
is always left and right is always right.
For years I have successfully used the
technique of leaning the control stick to the
side to which the model wants to turn. If the
airplane is coming toward you and begins to
turn to the right, but you want it to stay on a
straight path, lean the rudder stick to the side
to which the airplane is turning. By doing
that you have applied left rudder to the
model, and it will tend to straighten the flight
path. It’s a simple approach, but it works.
An alternate method when the model is
flying toward you is to turn around so that
most of your back is toward the model, then
look back over your shoulder. When you do
that, your right is right and left is left.
However, you could easily get confused if
the model is moving fast, so be careful.
Beyond this turning problem, the next
most important part of learning to fly is the
landing. I usually don’t let my student try
landing approaches until he or she has
roughly six flying sessions logged.
During the first few landing attempts I try
to talk the pilot down with detailed verbal
instructions. I try not to grab the transmitter
unless the student gets into a dive or steep
turn. It is of primary importance during the
landing process to get the student to
gradually reduce the motor throttle, which
slows the flying speed. The airplane must be
going slow to land properly. Too many new
students attempt to land by applying downelevator.
That speeds up the model, making
it impossible to land.
On the first few landings the only goal is
to get the model safely on the ground.
Exactly where it lands on the flying field is
unimportant; placement will improve as the
student does more landings on his or her
own.
If the student is lucky enough to have a
paved or close-cut grass runway, the goal
is to eventually land on it. If there are
trees around the perimeter of the site, the
student doesn’t want to end up in one!
Learning to land by himself or herself
takes a great deal of practice. The more
attempts the student makes, the better he
or she will get at it.
The frequency at which you learn to fly
is of vital importance. If you have a busy
schedule and can only get to the flying
field once a week or every several weeks,
you will not learn as fast.
Years ago I taught a fellow Grumman
engineer to fly by himself in two weeks.
We did that by flying four flights every
lunch hour for 10 working days. By
getting 40 flights in during two weeks, he
had it mastered.
Later I had the concept published in an
article and was accused of running an RC
pilot’s “boot camp.” It was an aggressive
approach to learning, and one must consider
that this is a hobby that is intended for fun
and relaxation. To be serious about learning,
you need to be out flying at least once a
week.
After learning to steer in the sky and land,
the last item is the takeoff or hand launch. Of
the three aspects of learning to fly, this is
usually the easiest. Hand launching may
seem difficult at first. You should be on the
transmitter, and let your instructor launch at
the beginning.
Get used to holding the transmitter in
your left hand while you launch (throw) the
model with your right. When doing this, it is
best to run a few steps with the model before
giving it a good heave-ho! As soon as you
release the model, try to get your right hand
on the control stick as quickly as possible. If
the wind tries to flip the model, at least you
will be in a position to correct the motion as
soon as possible.
Larger models are best taken off of the
ground, as an airplane should be. The
smoother the flying-field runway, the easier
this task will be. Tail-dragger models are
steered by the rudder and the tail wheel. This
type of configuration is more difficult to
maneuver on the ground than a tricycle-gear
setup, in which the nose wheel does the
steering in conjunction with the rudder.
In either case, try hard not to overcontrol
the steering. If the model tracks well on the
ground, let it do its thing until you have
sufficient flying speed, then haul back on the
elevator to rotate into the air.
When you get home from a flying session,
you might want to revisit that simulator if
you have one. Recharge your batteries to be
ready for the next flight session. Get into the
practice of giving your model a safety check.
Pull on the hinges and check the control rods
and their attachment points.
If your model’s wing is held on with
rubber bands, throw out the old ones. Use
new rubber bands each time you go to the
field. Check your propeller for any hairline
cracks. If you see even the slightest fracture,
replace the propeller without question. In a
later installment I will instruct you on how
to check all of your batteries since they are
the lifeblood of your system.
Next month, if time permits, I hope to have a
new electric-powered trainer for your
consideration. To enjoy our hobby to its
fullest, you should be able to build a model
from scratch. I’m going to present an
extremely simple model design that I would
like you to construct from raw materials that
are obtainable from any local hobby shop.
Full-size plans and many sequential
construction photos will be included to help
you along the way.
I also intend to take the entire electric
power system and the Hitec Neon RC system
out of the Pogo and transfer it into this new
model, which I’m calling the “Scratch-One.”
Until next time, how about those questions?
You must have some by now! MA
Bob Aberle
Sources:
RC system:
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
www.hitecrcd.com
Pogo aircraft:
AeroCraft Ltd.
432 Hallett Ave.
Riverhead NY 11901
(631) 369-9319
www.aerocraftrc.com
Electric power system:
New Creations R/C (Kirk Massey)
Box 496
Willis TX 77378
(936) 856-4630
[email protected]
www.newcreations-rc.com
Simulators:
Dave Brown Products
4560 Layhigh Rd.
Hamilton OH 45013
(513) 738-1576
www.dbproducts.com
Tower Hobbies Inc.
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(800) 637-4989
www.towerhobbies.com