Product Review - 2004/08

THE VENTURE CP is a 30-size ARF
helicopter that features CCPM:
Collective/Cyclic Pitch Mixing. This was
my first experience with CCPM, so even
though I had read a lot about it and seen it
in use, I had not had the opportunity to
“play” with it.
CCPM does away with the normal
mixing base levers and, through the mixing
in the radio, causes the three servos that
normally control the swashplate
(collective, elevator, and aileron) to work
together for each of the functions. This
combined force of three servos provides
more power to the swashplate, better
centering, and increased precision.
With this machine, you should not have
to use the high-end servos you would
normally use on a helicopter. The Venture
uses a 120° CCPM swashplate with the
roll/pitch functions on the rear two control
links. The front servo controls the elevator
and one-third of the pitch function.
The Venture CP features a full ballbearing
rotor head; many other machines in
this class use partial ball bearings and
bushings. Additionally, there are ball
bearings at almost all other critical areas.
Packaging and Contents: The Venture
was securely packaged in a large, sturdy
box sporting a full-color label of a Venture
in flight. When I opened the main box, I
was greeted by three more boxes; one
contained the blades, tailboom with
attached tail rotor assembly, and other
accessory bags; one contained the main
assembly (assembled frames, canopy); and
one contained the tail fins, etc.
Everything was packaged to eliminate
damage and provide logical parts grouping
for assembly. There were eight bags of
small parts, and each was grouped to be
used one step at a time. This made
assembly much easier and is common
among the JR helicopter kits I’ve built. By
the time I was finished with my Ergo 60, I
had enough small plastic bags for a lifetime,
so only having eight in this kit shows how
prefabricated the Venture CP is.
54 MODEL AVIATION
Steve Kaluf
P r o d u c t R e v i e w
E-mail: [email protected]
JR Venture 30 CP ARF
The Venture is a great model and is available at a super bargain price!
Pros:
• Excellent value for the price.
• Assembly/setup manual.
• Ability to function as a docile trainer
or 3-D machine.
• Good, strong design.
• Quick assembly.
Cons:
• Minor errors in manual’s
illustrations.
• Computer radio needed. (Probably
more of a pro than con for anyone
starting out.)
• Need to trim plastic blade mounts to
fold blades.
• Single tailboom support restricts
access to engine and glow plug.
• Long servo arms needed. (JR arms
are included, though!)
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:48 am Page 54
56 MODEL AVIATION
Assembly: This will not be a construction
article; however, I will point out some
assembly features of interest that could
influence your decision to purchase or not
to purchase this machine.
At first glance, I thought the Venture
was going to take a fair amount of work to
get into the air; there seemed to be many
parts. I was wrong. I received the kit in late
June of last year, so I had to put it on hold
until after the Nationals; I’m just a bit too
busy at work during this time period. I had
hoped to have it ready for the IRCHA
(International Radio Controlled Helicopter
Association) Jamboree in August;
unfortunately, time did not permit that
either.
However, on Sunday afternoon at the
Jamboree, things were winding down and
my flying buddy Craig Bradley and I were
sitting around in our pit area. One of us
said, “We ought to put the Venture
together,” and with that I gathered up the
box, procured a large table, and started
assembly. We spent approximately an hour
and a half on the machine, and that short
amount of time was more than enough to
complete the basic assembly.
The instructions were typical JR Heli
Division: exceptionally well done, step-bystep,
with clear illustrations. The tailboom
was fully assembled with the tail rotor
assembly and boom support already
attached.
The tail-rotor belt was preinstalled in
the tailboom. I like belt drives; my main
machine is an Ergo 60, and the belt drive
has never failed me—even when it has
been really loose.
The tailboom simply slipped into the
frames; I looped the belt over the drive
pulley, tightened four bolts and two
setscrews, and I was finished. The
setscrews are a welcome addition that my
Ergo does not have. They will help keep
Shown are the helicopter’s main components as they come out of the box. Everything
was safely and neatly packaged to prevent damage.
This is the completely assembled Venture CP. All that is left to do is finish the radioequipment
installation and mount the canopy.
The Venture CP takes to the air on its first test flight. It was extremely easy to maintain
a nice, stable hover. Photo by Andrew Kaluf.
Only eight small parts bags are needed to
complete assembly. Each bag is packaged
to be used in individual steps.
Photos by the author except as noted
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 56
the boom from slipping and the belt tight.
With the simple addition of the tailboom,
the Venture suddenly looked like a
helicopter.
When installing the long control rod for
the rotor pitch, be sure to space the rod
supports on the boom as shown in the
instructions and position them to give the
rod the smoothest flow and movement
between the tail-rotor link and the servo.
Do this check before hooking the links up
to the servo or tail-rotor control arm, and
adjust until it is as good as it can be.
Engine/clutch/fan installation was next.
During the first few days of the Jamboree I
looked around for an engine and pipe for
the Venture. I was going to choose the
Thunder Tiger .39, the Webra .35, or the
O.S. Max .32. I talked to many people and
got almost as many opinions on which to
use. I finally settled on the O.S. .32.
Ron Lund from Rick’s R/C Helicopters
gave me a good price and further enticed
me with a just-delivered Curtis
Youngblood Enterprises Muscle Pipe II.
This is a new pipe for the 30-class engines.
It looks like I got one of the first ones.
One of the great things about the
Jamboree is that almost everyone who is
anyone in helicopters is there, including
Curtis. He was happy to talk to me about
the new pipe. (More about that later.)
The engine mount supplied with the
Venture was a plastic-type material that
appeared to be the same thing from which
the frames and other plastic parts were
made. This seemed to be a super-strong
material.
The mount’s holes were offset to
accommodate Webra and O.S. engines. For
one you turn the mount in one direction,
and for the other you turn the mount in the
other direction. I suspect that the mount
would also accommodate the Thunder
Tiger .39; I know of people using that
engine in the Venture. All mounting
hardware was supplied.
Once the mount was on the O.S., I
installed the clutch/fan assembly on the
engine. This assembly mounted right on
what would be the propeller drive boss, so
be sure your engine has this included; the
O.S. does. Be sure to use thread lock
everywhere the manual directs you to. I put
a dial indicator on the clutch and was quite
happy to find that the runout was
minimal—excellent, in fact.
The Venture’s frames were strong and
not flat as you’d normally find on a
helicopter kit. They were molded and
bolted together, so there were no standoffs
as you’d normally find. JR calls this a box
frame system. I feel that the Venture would
have outstanding crash survivability.
The engine with mounted fan/clutch
slipped in between the frames with the
engine cylinder facing the rear. I lined up
the bottom of the clutch with the bottom of
the clutch bell and checked around the
sides to make sure the clutch was not
misaligned. Everything seemed to line up
perfectly. I also checked the gear lash
between the main and drive gears using a
thin piece of paper. It, too, seemed perfect.
The engine mount had slots into which
aircraft nuts could be inserted. The bolts
had large finish-type washers that spread
the load on the frames. This made engine
installation incredibly easy.
The only real criticism I have of this
machine is the single tailboom support.
Don’t get me wrong; it was plenty strong.
However, the support tended to block
access to the glow plug. I did not install a
plug before I installed the engine, and even
though I have a long glow-plug wrench, I
could not install the plug without removing
the boom support from the attachment
point on the rear of the frames.
This may not be a big bother in normal
operation, but it could be a real problem if
you were in a contest; the clock would tick
away while you tried to get a new plug in.
The frames seemed to have attachment
points for a dual boom support, so perhaps
JR has already recognized this setback.
The servo installation was next. This is
important, and you must have the servos
installed and the output arms centered to
install the linkages. The manual provided
good illustrations of how the servos and
output arms were to be oriented. Be sure to
follow this carefully; it is critical for the
proper setup of the machine.
There were a couple discrepancies in
58 MODEL AVIATION
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 58
60 MODEL AVIATION
the illustrations for the left-side front
servo. The first illustrations showed it
correctly oriented on its side, and later
ones showed it on end. This was obviously
incorrect because the mount was actually
sideways in the frame.
Screws and washers were supplied to
properly mount the servos. One side of
each of the mounts moved a little to
accommodate the slightly different servo
sizes. Make sure that you insert the
mounting screws into the holes in the
mount—not between the mount and the
frame. A good light is necessary to see in
the frame and confirm that everything is
right.
The linkages were preassembled, and
the manual showed the exact length to
which each should be set. I set each
linkage to the proper length and made sure
the arms were oriented correctly. I was
rewarded with a level swashplate the first
time I turned on the radio!
I also found the CCPM setup to be
easier; there were fewer bellcranks and
levers to worry about keeping 90° to this
or that and to line up.
One of the last things you do is cut out
the windshield for the canopy (which
fortunately is ready to go). I don’t enjoy
cutting out windshields—probably because
I’m not very good it at. The best advice I
can give you is to use a good, sharp pair of
scissors with fairly short blades. The
special ones made for cutting out RC car
bodies work the best. Long blades will not
take the curves sharp enough.
The windshield had cutting guidelines,
so this one was not too bad to cut out. I
like to cut a little wide of the markings so I
can use sandpaper to smooth the cuts down
to the line; that also radiuses the curves
nicely. According to the manual, the
windshield is held in place with six sheetmetal
screws; however, only five were
supplied.
This was the first ARF helicopter I had
ever assembled. I had a few concerns
about ARFs in general, one of which was
the quality of the machine’s preassembly.
Would I find critical bolts or screws that
were loose?
To eliminate those worries, I went
through every bolt, nut, and screw on the
Venture to make sure everything was
properly tight. I’m happy to report that I
did not find a single loose fastener.
Another concern I’ve always had was
about the knowledge lost by not
assembling the entire machine—not
having the full assembly instructions.
The Venture’s manual took care of at
least part of that by supplying complete
assembly instructions for all the
preassembled components. The manual
also had exploded views for the entire
machine. So if I ever have to take my
Venture completely apart, I will have
complete assembly instructions if I need
them. This is a great feature.
The Venture had a low parts count,
which is an advantage from a couple of
perspectives. The main advantage is that
the fewer parts there are, the less
complicated the machine tends to be. And
the less complicated the machine, the
easier it is to properly maintain. The
Venture CP is sure to be easy to maintain
indeed.
Radio setup would have been well
documented in the manual if I had a JR;
the instructions provided exact settings for
all helicopter systems the company
manufactures. If you use a different brand,
as I did, the instructions still provide you
with most of what you need to make the
initial setup simple. Just pick the radiosetup
instructions that match your system
the closest.
I started out setting the servo reversing
to what the manual recommended; that is
not always right, but it gets you close.
With CCPM, you also need to set up your
radio for the CCPM swashplate. Most
current systems have this preprogrammed
in; be sure to select the correct one. My
Futaba 9C’s manual was good at
explaining this and had a chart to help
troubleshoot the setup.
Flight Test: Once everything was going in
the right direction and checked again, it
was time for the first test flight. I chose to
leave the canopy off for the first quick
flight so I could see all the linkages and to
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62 MODEL AVIATION
allow the engine as much cooling as
possible.
The O.S. .32 fired as soon as the fuel
had made it into the carburetor. The engine
was set purposely rich for break-in. I
slowly advanced the throttle, but the
engine was a bit too rich to take off. I
leaned it roughly a half turn and tried
again. That time the blades spooled up
fine.
I could tell right away that the pitch
curve was a bit low and the throttle curve
was a bit high. However, advancing the
throttle to slightly less than three-quarters
lifted the Venture off. This initial hover at
approximately a foot off the ground was
almost hands off. I let the engine run there
for roughly a half tank, and then I landed
the model and shut it down to cool off, and
I checked all the mechanics.
The engine and mechanics looked
good. I made adjustments to the pitch and
throttle curves to get everything more to
my liking for hovering. Not having worked
with a 30-size machine before, I was
unprepared for what sounded like the
engine revving fairly high. The Muscle
Pipe was also a bit louder than I expected.
Curtis told me that you can use a wire
tie to constrict the exhaust diverter and
make the pipe quieter without losing
performance, but I haven’t tried that yet. I
was greatly impressed by the amount of
available power the engine/pipe package
delivered. Curtis also told me to resist the
temptation to lean the engine out with this
pipe. I like to run a little on the rich side
anyway, so that was almost welcome news
to me.
I installed the canopy and fired up for
another test flight. The pitch curve was
much better, although I still felt that the
engine was turning up higher than it
needed to. The machine was stable in the
hover—much more so than I expected for
a 30-size machine. The controls were
crisp.
Over the course of the next four tanks
of fuel, I could feel the engine getting
better and better. I slowly leaned the high
end and finally the low end just a bit. The
throttle response was instantaneous, and
the engine/pipe combination pulled very
strong. I also pulled the throttle curve
down a bit more.
The machine is stable in the hover at a
head speed of 1,520-1,540 rpm. I’ve had it
as low as 1,350 with no wobble at all,
although it is thought to maintain a steady
altitude at that rpm. Flying some slow- to
medium-speed circuits (in the normal
flight condition) showed that the head
speed remained fairly steady. The Venture
is smooth at these speeds; the tail seems to
have plenty of authority.
I also feel that dialing in the pitch and
throttle curves has been easier than on my
Ergo. Even though the Ergo is great, there
are times when I still feel as though I’m
chasing the curves a bit. That does not
seem to be the case with the Venture so
far. I don’t know for sure if it is because of
the CCPM setup or the new parts, but
whatever it is works.
The Venture has another unique
feature; it came with two flybars, two sets
of paddles, and paddle weights. The
paddles that are installed on the machine
are what the novice helicopter pilot would
use.
The kit also included weights that
slipped inside the paddles. These, for some
reason, were not mentioned in the
instructions except in the back of the
manual where it showed how to assemble
the preassembled parts.
The “stock” paddles are not overly
sensitive without these weights, so I’m not
sure you would want to install them.
However, if you needed to calm things
down a bit, I’m sure that installing the
weights would be a good starting point
because they do slow the response
somewhat.
The second flybar and paddles are for
3-D. I’m not a 3-D pilot, so I can’t give
you a full report, but installing this
flybar/paddle combination does liven it up
quite a bit. There is a great deal of control
authority available.
I’m also extraordinarily impressed that
with sport, non-ball-bearing servos, the
controls are crisp and have terrific
precision. I’ve watched Ventures do many
extreme 3-D maneuvers, so I know they
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 62
are more than capable—even if I’m not.
The wooden blades included seem
pretty good. They balanced with only a
small piece of tape on one blade. They
performed well in the hover, and they
worked well doing circuits, maintaining
head speed well while flying around. The
blades do seem to slow down fairly fast in
a low-level autorotation, but I still have
enough collective left from as high as 15
feet to get down safely with only a gentle
bounce.
Final Impressions: I like it! The Venture
is generally available for roughly $269 at
most hobby shops and almost everywhere I
checked online. The parts are inexpensive
(and readily available); a tailboom is
$11.39, a main shaft is $8.99, a flybar is
$9.50, main blades are $26.99, and tail
rotor blades are $9.98. I put $190 into the
engine and pipe. The servos are an
inexpensive sport type.
So for approximately $500 you can
have a top-notch model that is ready to go.
But the Venture is much more than an
inexpensive, easy-to-assemble helicopter;
it is a capable machine that is a lot of fun
to fly.
In the short time I’ve had the Venture,
I’ve found myself trying things I’ve done
before. It tends to inspire confidence and
experimentation. I don’t know if it’s
because of the lower cost investment or
not, but I feel that it is because it flies so
well.
I will be upgrading the tail rotor’s
servo; the slower sport servo lags behind
the gyro rather quickly. The Venture is a
super entry-level machine, but it should not
be overlooked by those who want a nimble
30-size machine. It will do it all. MA
Specifications:
Rotor diameter: 49.5 inches
Tail-rotor diameter: 9.3 inches
Gear ratio: 9.78:1:5.18
Overall length: 44.6 inches
Height: 17.2 inches
Weight as tested): 7 pounds, 2 ounces
(with 1800 mAh battery)
Distributor:
Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
(800) 338-4639
Fax: (217) 352-6799
www.horizonhobby.com
Other products used in review:
Futaba 9CHP radio, GY401 gyroscope:
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-3636
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
64 MODEL AVIATION
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 64
P r o d u c t R e v i e w David Adams
E-mail: [email protected]
D.C.R.C. Electric F-117A
Pros:
• Unique-looking model.
• Fully molded upper fuselage part.
• Nicely cut wing.
• Good flight characteristics at all
speeds.
• Great fun factor.
• Quick build time.
• Uses standard Speed 400 motor.
Cons:
• More expensive than similar
models.
• Motor and propeller are not
included.
THE F-117 IS a unique airplane that
almost every modeler can recognize. This
uniqueness usually brings with it some
awkward flying characteristics, so few
models of the airplane can be found at the
flying field—much less one that flies
nicely.
The full-scale airplane’s faceted
fuselage surfaces along with its highly
swept wings and small vertical tails create
unusual design problems for the potential
model designer. Fred Countryman at
D.C.R.C. Electric has met the challenge
with a quick-building and nice-flying
standoff-scale model.
When you are at the flying field, no one
is going to mistake this black machine for a
Piper Cub. The term “rakish” was probably
coined for this aircraft.
Assembly: D.C.R.C. has a Web site on
which you can purchase the model and
watch a video showing it in flight. The
company advertises that the F-117A can be
assembled in two hours. I took a little
longer, but I had never built a foam-andtape
model before, and I needed a few
layers of tape to get the hang of it.
Although the finish will not win a
contest, it does achieve what the designer
wanted: a light model with a low wing
loading that produces good flying
characteristics with a Speed 400 electric
motor. The instructions advise against
using any other finishing method, which
would add weight to the model, and I
agree. The light wing loading is the key to
this model’s flying well.
All foam parts are precut. The wings are
The F-117A is capable of loops and rolls, and it needs a full-size field from which to fly.
It’s fast, nimble, and will draw looks from spectators.
The landing approach is flat and slow. You just cut the power, and as the aircraft nears
the ground, feed in up-elevator until it touches down.
cut from a block of white foam. You can
use the lower parts of the foam blanks as a
cradle when building. The verticals and aft
part of the wing/fuselage are made from 1⁄4-
inch construction-quality foam. It has a
slick finish on each side, which gives it
more strength than cut foam alone. Both
rudders are cut from this foam and have
proven flightworthy even in extended
vertical dives. The motor mount is made
from 1⁄8 hard plywood, and the elevons are
precut from rigid foam.
The instructions are minimal but
adequate, with photos provided for clarity.
A remarkably small number of steps are
required to finish the F-117, which makes
66 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 66
August 2004 67
the build time fast. Do pay attention to the
angle at which the vertical tails are set.
There is a foam piece to set the angle, but
apparently some builders have managed to
angle the tails inward—not outward as
they should be.
The preformed plastic upper fuselage
surface gives shape with light weight and
incorporates the delightful angles typical
of the F-117. The upper fuselage surface is
held on with hook-and-loop fastener tape
and is removable for easy access to
batteries and radio gear.
I added the sticky-backed decals to the
model, including the nice gold-tinted
windshield. There are no tricky or unusual
steps required to make the model, and even
a beginner could build it successfully.
Equipment: I powered my F-117 with the
recommended 6-volt Speed 400 motor with
a Gunther pusher propeller. (The first
flights were with a nylon Tornado 5 x 4
You can easily see the Speed 400 six-volt motor that the author installed.
The F-117A has good flight characteristics
at all speeds. It isn’t a trainer, but it isn’t
difficult to fly either.
Notice the model’s fully molded upper fuselage section and the nicely cut foam wing
sections. A nice decal package is included with the kit.
This is a fun airplane, and it’s something
different to try. Another plus is that it’s
easy and quick to assemble.
propeller, but subsequent flights have been
with the Gunther, which I prefer.)
I used an eight-cell 500 mAh Ni-Cd
battery, and the motor was controlled by an
unknown manufacturer’s (the label was
torn off) 20-amp ESC. The servos were
Hitec HS-55s, although any miniservo
would have been suitable. Don’t use
normal-size servos; they will just add to the
weight.
I used a Futaba 8U radio system with a
dual-conversion receiver so I could fly at
the local flying site. A microreceiver would
allow better flight performance if
interference weren’t a problem. The battery
was located in the nose section with hookand-
loop fasteners, which caused the CG to
fall at the recommended position.
Flight Test: The airplane needs a full-size
field from which to fly (as would any
Speed 400-powered model). I set up the
control throws as recommended. I didn’t
do any test glides because I have learned
that I don’t get much information from my
height, and I am more likely to make a
mistake in judging the necessary flying
speed with an unknown airplane.
The F-117 is easy to hand launch under
power if you cut the launching notch in the
bottom of the fuselage as instructed. I also
made some small finger holes in the
bottom of the wing to help me grip the
airplane with my fingers before launch.
The first hand launch was easy, and with a
whine from the Speed 400 motor, the
airplane was off with a nice climb angle.
Photos by the author
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 67
Only a minor trim was required in roll and
pitch.
As I flew the F-117, I noted to myself
that it had exceptionally nice flying
qualities and I was entirely comfortable
with the recommended setup. Rolls were
smooth, but loops did require a dive for
speed.
I learned that under full power of the
Speed 400 I could hold the elevons full
up, and the airplane would maintain
lateral control and was easy to guide
around the sky. I cut the throttle still
holding full up-elevon and found that the
airplane was still controllable. Releasing
the up command resulted in a nice, flat
glide angle, as can be seen in the landing
photos.
The landing approach was flat and
slow. I cut the power over the end of the
flying field, and as the ground approached
I gradually fed in elevator until I had full
up just at touchdown. Since I had chosen
to land on the runway, the model slid just
a few feet and stopped. Landings on the
grass are just as smooth and much
quieter!
On subsequent flights I used a bungee
system to launch the F-117. I enjoy the
way the airplane looks after release as it
leaps into the air. I made a bungee that
takes approximately five minutes to get
ready to fly.
I screwed a corkscrew stake used for a
dog-leash holder into the ground. The
bungee is 20 feet of approximately 3⁄16-
inch surgical tubing and 5 feet of string,
all of which I connected with key rings. I
epoxied a hook in a slot made in the
fuselage, as shown in a photo. I cut the
hook from 1⁄4 plywood and shaped it to
also serve as a landing skid.
The bungee launches have been great
when the model attains roughly 5 feet of
altitude before the power is applied. But
be sure to arm the ESC (if required);
otherwise, it will be a landing too.
I have made many flights since the first,
and I enjoy flying this airplane. The F-
117’s unusual looks and good flying
qualities have made it one of my favorite
models to fly. It is easy to construct; a
beginner could build it successfully. This
could be a first aileron (elevon) trainer
with just a few minutes of buddy box or
instructor help. I recommend it for a great
deal of enjoyment. MA
Specifications:
Type: Kit with molded-foam structure and
plastic parts
Wingspan: 30 inches
Wing area: 400 square inches
Length: 30 inches
Recommended weight: None
Review model’s ready-to-fly weight: 23
ounces including eight-cell 500AR Ni-Cd
Engine: Speed 400 6-volt electric motor
with Gunther push-on propeller
Radio recommended: Three-channel—
elevons and motor control
Radio used in review: Futaba 8U
transmitter, Hitec 555 receiver, Hitec HS-
55 servos, 20-amp ESC
Equipment needed to fly model:
Transmitter, receiver, two servos, ESC,
motor battery
Manufacturer:
D.C.R.C. Electric
812 E. 3rd
Molalla OR 97038
www.dcrcradiocontrol.com
Street price: $79.99 from D.C.R.C. with
free shipping
Products used in review:
Futaba 8U Super Series radio system
(discontinued):
Great Planes Model Distributors
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-8970
www.futaba-rc.com/radios/
Hitec HS-55 servos:
Hitec RCD USA, Inc.
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
Fax: (858) 748-1767
www.hitecrcd.com
68 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 68

THE VENTURE CP is a 30-size ARF
helicopter that features CCPM:
Collective/Cyclic Pitch Mixing. This was
my first experience with CCPM, so even
though I had read a lot about it and seen it
in use, I had not had the opportunity to
“play” with it.
CCPM does away with the normal
mixing base levers and, through the mixing
in the radio, causes the three servos that
normally control the swashplate
(collective, elevator, and aileron) to work
together for each of the functions. This
combined force of three servos provides
more power to the swashplate, better
centering, and increased precision.
With this machine, you should not have
to use the high-end servos you would
normally use on a helicopter. The Venture
uses a 120° CCPM swashplate with the
roll/pitch functions on the rear two control
links. The front servo controls the elevator
and one-third of the pitch function.
The Venture CP features a full ballbearing
rotor head; many other machines in
this class use partial ball bearings and
bushings. Additionally, there are ball
bearings at almost all other critical areas.
Packaging and Contents: The Venture
was securely packaged in a large, sturdy
box sporting a full-color label of a Venture
in flight. When I opened the main box, I
was greeted by three more boxes; one
contained the blades, tailboom with
attached tail rotor assembly, and other
accessory bags; one contained the main
assembly (assembled frames, canopy); and
one contained the tail fins, etc.
Everything was packaged to eliminate
damage and provide logical parts grouping
for assembly. There were eight bags of
small parts, and each was grouped to be
used one step at a time. This made
assembly much easier and is common
among the JR helicopter kits I’ve built. By
the time I was finished with my Ergo 60, I
had enough small plastic bags for a lifetime,
so only having eight in this kit shows how
prefabricated the Venture CP is.
54 MODEL AVIATION
Steve Kaluf
P r o d u c t R e v i e w
E-mail: [email protected]
JR Venture 30 CP ARF
The Venture is a great model and is available at a super bargain price!
Pros:
• Excellent value for the price.
• Assembly/setup manual.
• Ability to function as a docile trainer
or 3-D machine.
• Good, strong design.
• Quick assembly.
Cons:
• Minor errors in manual’s
illustrations.
• Computer radio needed. (Probably
more of a pro than con for anyone
starting out.)
• Need to trim plastic blade mounts to
fold blades.
• Single tailboom support restricts
access to engine and glow plug.
• Long servo arms needed. (JR arms
are included, though!)
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:48 am Page 54
56 MODEL AVIATION
Assembly: This will not be a construction
article; however, I will point out some
assembly features of interest that could
influence your decision to purchase or not
to purchase this machine.
At first glance, I thought the Venture
was going to take a fair amount of work to
get into the air; there seemed to be many
parts. I was wrong. I received the kit in late
June of last year, so I had to put it on hold
until after the Nationals; I’m just a bit too
busy at work during this time period. I had
hoped to have it ready for the IRCHA
(International Radio Controlled Helicopter
Association) Jamboree in August;
unfortunately, time did not permit that
either.
However, on Sunday afternoon at the
Jamboree, things were winding down and
my flying buddy Craig Bradley and I were
sitting around in our pit area. One of us
said, “We ought to put the Venture
together,” and with that I gathered up the
box, procured a large table, and started
assembly. We spent approximately an hour
and a half on the machine, and that short
amount of time was more than enough to
complete the basic assembly.
The instructions were typical JR Heli
Division: exceptionally well done, step-bystep,
with clear illustrations. The tailboom
was fully assembled with the tail rotor
assembly and boom support already
attached.
The tail-rotor belt was preinstalled in
the tailboom. I like belt drives; my main
machine is an Ergo 60, and the belt drive
has never failed me—even when it has
been really loose.
The tailboom simply slipped into the
frames; I looped the belt over the drive
pulley, tightened four bolts and two
setscrews, and I was finished. The
setscrews are a welcome addition that my
Ergo does not have. They will help keep
Shown are the helicopter’s main components as they come out of the box. Everything
was safely and neatly packaged to prevent damage.
This is the completely assembled Venture CP. All that is left to do is finish the radioequipment
installation and mount the canopy.
The Venture CP takes to the air on its first test flight. It was extremely easy to maintain
a nice, stable hover. Photo by Andrew Kaluf.
Only eight small parts bags are needed to
complete assembly. Each bag is packaged
to be used in individual steps.
Photos by the author except as noted
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 56
the boom from slipping and the belt tight.
With the simple addition of the tailboom,
the Venture suddenly looked like a
helicopter.
When installing the long control rod for
the rotor pitch, be sure to space the rod
supports on the boom as shown in the
instructions and position them to give the
rod the smoothest flow and movement
between the tail-rotor link and the servo.
Do this check before hooking the links up
to the servo or tail-rotor control arm, and
adjust until it is as good as it can be.
Engine/clutch/fan installation was next.
During the first few days of the Jamboree I
looked around for an engine and pipe for
the Venture. I was going to choose the
Thunder Tiger .39, the Webra .35, or the
O.S. Max .32. I talked to many people and
got almost as many opinions on which to
use. I finally settled on the O.S. .32.
Ron Lund from Rick’s R/C Helicopters
gave me a good price and further enticed
me with a just-delivered Curtis
Youngblood Enterprises Muscle Pipe II.
This is a new pipe for the 30-class engines.
It looks like I got one of the first ones.
One of the great things about the
Jamboree is that almost everyone who is
anyone in helicopters is there, including
Curtis. He was happy to talk to me about
the new pipe. (More about that later.)
The engine mount supplied with the
Venture was a plastic-type material that
appeared to be the same thing from which
the frames and other plastic parts were
made. This seemed to be a super-strong
material.
The mount’s holes were offset to
accommodate Webra and O.S. engines. For
one you turn the mount in one direction,
and for the other you turn the mount in the
other direction. I suspect that the mount
would also accommodate the Thunder
Tiger .39; I know of people using that
engine in the Venture. All mounting
hardware was supplied.
Once the mount was on the O.S., I
installed the clutch/fan assembly on the
engine. This assembly mounted right on
what would be the propeller drive boss, so
be sure your engine has this included; the
O.S. does. Be sure to use thread lock
everywhere the manual directs you to. I put
a dial indicator on the clutch and was quite
happy to find that the runout was
minimal—excellent, in fact.
The Venture’s frames were strong and
not flat as you’d normally find on a
helicopter kit. They were molded and
bolted together, so there were no standoffs
as you’d normally find. JR calls this a box
frame system. I feel that the Venture would
have outstanding crash survivability.
The engine with mounted fan/clutch
slipped in between the frames with the
engine cylinder facing the rear. I lined up
the bottom of the clutch with the bottom of
the clutch bell and checked around the
sides to make sure the clutch was not
misaligned. Everything seemed to line up
perfectly. I also checked the gear lash
between the main and drive gears using a
thin piece of paper. It, too, seemed perfect.
The engine mount had slots into which
aircraft nuts could be inserted. The bolts
had large finish-type washers that spread
the load on the frames. This made engine
installation incredibly easy.
The only real criticism I have of this
machine is the single tailboom support.
Don’t get me wrong; it was plenty strong.
However, the support tended to block
access to the glow plug. I did not install a
plug before I installed the engine, and even
though I have a long glow-plug wrench, I
could not install the plug without removing
the boom support from the attachment
point on the rear of the frames.
This may not be a big bother in normal
operation, but it could be a real problem if
you were in a contest; the clock would tick
away while you tried to get a new plug in.
The frames seemed to have attachment
points for a dual boom support, so perhaps
JR has already recognized this setback.
The servo installation was next. This is
important, and you must have the servos
installed and the output arms centered to
install the linkages. The manual provided
good illustrations of how the servos and
output arms were to be oriented. Be sure to
follow this carefully; it is critical for the
proper setup of the machine.
There were a couple discrepancies in
58 MODEL AVIATION
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 58
60 MODEL AVIATION
the illustrations for the left-side front
servo. The first illustrations showed it
correctly oriented on its side, and later
ones showed it on end. This was obviously
incorrect because the mount was actually
sideways in the frame.
Screws and washers were supplied to
properly mount the servos. One side of
each of the mounts moved a little to
accommodate the slightly different servo
sizes. Make sure that you insert the
mounting screws into the holes in the
mount—not between the mount and the
frame. A good light is necessary to see in
the frame and confirm that everything is
right.
The linkages were preassembled, and
the manual showed the exact length to
which each should be set. I set each
linkage to the proper length and made sure
the arms were oriented correctly. I was
rewarded with a level swashplate the first
time I turned on the radio!
I also found the CCPM setup to be
easier; there were fewer bellcranks and
levers to worry about keeping 90° to this
or that and to line up.
One of the last things you do is cut out
the windshield for the canopy (which
fortunately is ready to go). I don’t enjoy
cutting out windshields—probably because
I’m not very good it at. The best advice I
can give you is to use a good, sharp pair of
scissors with fairly short blades. The
special ones made for cutting out RC car
bodies work the best. Long blades will not
take the curves sharp enough.
The windshield had cutting guidelines,
so this one was not too bad to cut out. I
like to cut a little wide of the markings so I
can use sandpaper to smooth the cuts down
to the line; that also radiuses the curves
nicely. According to the manual, the
windshield is held in place with six sheetmetal
screws; however, only five were
supplied.
This was the first ARF helicopter I had
ever assembled. I had a few concerns
about ARFs in general, one of which was
the quality of the machine’s preassembly.
Would I find critical bolts or screws that
were loose?
To eliminate those worries, I went
through every bolt, nut, and screw on the
Venture to make sure everything was
properly tight. I’m happy to report that I
did not find a single loose fastener.
Another concern I’ve always had was
about the knowledge lost by not
assembling the entire machine—not
having the full assembly instructions.
The Venture’s manual took care of at
least part of that by supplying complete
assembly instructions for all the
preassembled components. The manual
also had exploded views for the entire
machine. So if I ever have to take my
Venture completely apart, I will have
complete assembly instructions if I need
them. This is a great feature.
The Venture had a low parts count,
which is an advantage from a couple of
perspectives. The main advantage is that
the fewer parts there are, the less
complicated the machine tends to be. And
the less complicated the machine, the
easier it is to properly maintain. The
Venture CP is sure to be easy to maintain
indeed.
Radio setup would have been well
documented in the manual if I had a JR;
the instructions provided exact settings for
all helicopter systems the company
manufactures. If you use a different brand,
as I did, the instructions still provide you
with most of what you need to make the
initial setup simple. Just pick the radiosetup
instructions that match your system
the closest.
I started out setting the servo reversing
to what the manual recommended; that is
not always right, but it gets you close.
With CCPM, you also need to set up your
radio for the CCPM swashplate. Most
current systems have this preprogrammed
in; be sure to select the correct one. My
Futaba 9C’s manual was good at
explaining this and had a chart to help
troubleshoot the setup.
Flight Test: Once everything was going in
the right direction and checked again, it
was time for the first test flight. I chose to
leave the canopy off for the first quick
flight so I could see all the linkages and to
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 60
62 MODEL AVIATION
allow the engine as much cooling as
possible.
The O.S. .32 fired as soon as the fuel
had made it into the carburetor. The engine
was set purposely rich for break-in. I
slowly advanced the throttle, but the
engine was a bit too rich to take off. I
leaned it roughly a half turn and tried
again. That time the blades spooled up
fine.
I could tell right away that the pitch
curve was a bit low and the throttle curve
was a bit high. However, advancing the
throttle to slightly less than three-quarters
lifted the Venture off. This initial hover at
approximately a foot off the ground was
almost hands off. I let the engine run there
for roughly a half tank, and then I landed
the model and shut it down to cool off, and
I checked all the mechanics.
The engine and mechanics looked
good. I made adjustments to the pitch and
throttle curves to get everything more to
my liking for hovering. Not having worked
with a 30-size machine before, I was
unprepared for what sounded like the
engine revving fairly high. The Muscle
Pipe was also a bit louder than I expected.
Curtis told me that you can use a wire
tie to constrict the exhaust diverter and
make the pipe quieter without losing
performance, but I haven’t tried that yet. I
was greatly impressed by the amount of
available power the engine/pipe package
delivered. Curtis also told me to resist the
temptation to lean the engine out with this
pipe. I like to run a little on the rich side
anyway, so that was almost welcome news
to me.
I installed the canopy and fired up for
another test flight. The pitch curve was
much better, although I still felt that the
engine was turning up higher than it
needed to. The machine was stable in the
hover—much more so than I expected for
a 30-size machine. The controls were
crisp.
Over the course of the next four tanks
of fuel, I could feel the engine getting
better and better. I slowly leaned the high
end and finally the low end just a bit. The
throttle response was instantaneous, and
the engine/pipe combination pulled very
strong. I also pulled the throttle curve
down a bit more.
The machine is stable in the hover at a
head speed of 1,520-1,540 rpm. I’ve had it
as low as 1,350 with no wobble at all,
although it is thought to maintain a steady
altitude at that rpm. Flying some slow- to
medium-speed circuits (in the normal
flight condition) showed that the head
speed remained fairly steady. The Venture
is smooth at these speeds; the tail seems to
have plenty of authority.
I also feel that dialing in the pitch and
throttle curves has been easier than on my
Ergo. Even though the Ergo is great, there
are times when I still feel as though I’m
chasing the curves a bit. That does not
seem to be the case with the Venture so
far. I don’t know for sure if it is because of
the CCPM setup or the new parts, but
whatever it is works.
The Venture has another unique
feature; it came with two flybars, two sets
of paddles, and paddle weights. The
paddles that are installed on the machine
are what the novice helicopter pilot would
use.
The kit also included weights that
slipped inside the paddles. These, for some
reason, were not mentioned in the
instructions except in the back of the
manual where it showed how to assemble
the preassembled parts.
The “stock” paddles are not overly
sensitive without these weights, so I’m not
sure you would want to install them.
However, if you needed to calm things
down a bit, I’m sure that installing the
weights would be a good starting point
because they do slow the response
somewhat.
The second flybar and paddles are for
3-D. I’m not a 3-D pilot, so I can’t give
you a full report, but installing this
flybar/paddle combination does liven it up
quite a bit. There is a great deal of control
authority available.
I’m also extraordinarily impressed that
with sport, non-ball-bearing servos, the
controls are crisp and have terrific
precision. I’ve watched Ventures do many
extreme 3-D maneuvers, so I know they
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 62
are more than capable—even if I’m not.
The wooden blades included seem
pretty good. They balanced with only a
small piece of tape on one blade. They
performed well in the hover, and they
worked well doing circuits, maintaining
head speed well while flying around. The
blades do seem to slow down fairly fast in
a low-level autorotation, but I still have
enough collective left from as high as 15
feet to get down safely with only a gentle
bounce.
Final Impressions: I like it! The Venture
is generally available for roughly $269 at
most hobby shops and almost everywhere I
checked online. The parts are inexpensive
(and readily available); a tailboom is
$11.39, a main shaft is $8.99, a flybar is
$9.50, main blades are $26.99, and tail
rotor blades are $9.98. I put $190 into the
engine and pipe. The servos are an
inexpensive sport type.
So for approximately $500 you can
have a top-notch model that is ready to go.
But the Venture is much more than an
inexpensive, easy-to-assemble helicopter;
it is a capable machine that is a lot of fun
to fly.
In the short time I’ve had the Venture,
I’ve found myself trying things I’ve done
before. It tends to inspire confidence and
experimentation. I don’t know if it’s
because of the lower cost investment or
not, but I feel that it is because it flies so
well.
I will be upgrading the tail rotor’s
servo; the slower sport servo lags behind
the gyro rather quickly. The Venture is a
super entry-level machine, but it should not
be overlooked by those who want a nimble
30-size machine. It will do it all. MA
Specifications:
Rotor diameter: 49.5 inches
Tail-rotor diameter: 9.3 inches
Gear ratio: 9.78:1:5.18
Overall length: 44.6 inches
Height: 17.2 inches
Weight as tested): 7 pounds, 2 ounces
(with 1800 mAh battery)
Distributor:
Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
(800) 338-4639
Fax: (217) 352-6799
www.horizonhobby.com
Other products used in review:
Futaba 9CHP radio, GY401 gyroscope:
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-3636
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
64 MODEL AVIATION
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 64
P r o d u c t R e v i e w David Adams
E-mail: [email protected]
D.C.R.C. Electric F-117A
Pros:
• Unique-looking model.
• Fully molded upper fuselage part.
• Nicely cut wing.
• Good flight characteristics at all
speeds.
• Great fun factor.
• Quick build time.
• Uses standard Speed 400 motor.
Cons:
• More expensive than similar
models.
• Motor and propeller are not
included.
THE F-117 IS a unique airplane that
almost every modeler can recognize. This
uniqueness usually brings with it some
awkward flying characteristics, so few
models of the airplane can be found at the
flying field—much less one that flies
nicely.
The full-scale airplane’s faceted
fuselage surfaces along with its highly
swept wings and small vertical tails create
unusual design problems for the potential
model designer. Fred Countryman at
D.C.R.C. Electric has met the challenge
with a quick-building and nice-flying
standoff-scale model.
When you are at the flying field, no one
is going to mistake this black machine for a
Piper Cub. The term “rakish” was probably
coined for this aircraft.
Assembly: D.C.R.C. has a Web site on
which you can purchase the model and
watch a video showing it in flight. The
company advertises that the F-117A can be
assembled in two hours. I took a little
longer, but I had never built a foam-andtape
model before, and I needed a few
layers of tape to get the hang of it.
Although the finish will not win a
contest, it does achieve what the designer
wanted: a light model with a low wing
loading that produces good flying
characteristics with a Speed 400 electric
motor. The instructions advise against
using any other finishing method, which
would add weight to the model, and I
agree. The light wing loading is the key to
this model’s flying well.
All foam parts are precut. The wings are
The F-117A is capable of loops and rolls, and it needs a full-size field from which to fly.
It’s fast, nimble, and will draw looks from spectators.
The landing approach is flat and slow. You just cut the power, and as the aircraft nears
the ground, feed in up-elevator until it touches down.
cut from a block of white foam. You can
use the lower parts of the foam blanks as a
cradle when building. The verticals and aft
part of the wing/fuselage are made from 1⁄4-
inch construction-quality foam. It has a
slick finish on each side, which gives it
more strength than cut foam alone. Both
rudders are cut from this foam and have
proven flightworthy even in extended
vertical dives. The motor mount is made
from 1⁄8 hard plywood, and the elevons are
precut from rigid foam.
The instructions are minimal but
adequate, with photos provided for clarity.
A remarkably small number of steps are
required to finish the F-117, which makes
66 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 66
August 2004 67
the build time fast. Do pay attention to the
angle at which the vertical tails are set.
There is a foam piece to set the angle, but
apparently some builders have managed to
angle the tails inward—not outward as
they should be.
The preformed plastic upper fuselage
surface gives shape with light weight and
incorporates the delightful angles typical
of the F-117. The upper fuselage surface is
held on with hook-and-loop fastener tape
and is removable for easy access to
batteries and radio gear.
I added the sticky-backed decals to the
model, including the nice gold-tinted
windshield. There are no tricky or unusual
steps required to make the model, and even
a beginner could build it successfully.
Equipment: I powered my F-117 with the
recommended 6-volt Speed 400 motor with
a Gunther pusher propeller. (The first
flights were with a nylon Tornado 5 x 4
You can easily see the Speed 400 six-volt motor that the author installed.
The F-117A has good flight characteristics
at all speeds. It isn’t a trainer, but it isn’t
difficult to fly either.
Notice the model’s fully molded upper fuselage section and the nicely cut foam wing
sections. A nice decal package is included with the kit.
This is a fun airplane, and it’s something
different to try. Another plus is that it’s
easy and quick to assemble.
propeller, but subsequent flights have been
with the Gunther, which I prefer.)
I used an eight-cell 500 mAh Ni-Cd
battery, and the motor was controlled by an
unknown manufacturer’s (the label was
torn off) 20-amp ESC. The servos were
Hitec HS-55s, although any miniservo
would have been suitable. Don’t use
normal-size servos; they will just add to the
weight.
I used a Futaba 8U radio system with a
dual-conversion receiver so I could fly at
the local flying site. A microreceiver would
allow better flight performance if
interference weren’t a problem. The battery
was located in the nose section with hookand-
loop fasteners, which caused the CG to
fall at the recommended position.
Flight Test: The airplane needs a full-size
field from which to fly (as would any
Speed 400-powered model). I set up the
control throws as recommended. I didn’t
do any test glides because I have learned
that I don’t get much information from my
height, and I am more likely to make a
mistake in judging the necessary flying
speed with an unknown airplane.
The F-117 is easy to hand launch under
power if you cut the launching notch in the
bottom of the fuselage as instructed. I also
made some small finger holes in the
bottom of the wing to help me grip the
airplane with my fingers before launch.
The first hand launch was easy, and with a
whine from the Speed 400 motor, the
airplane was off with a nice climb angle.
Photos by the author
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 67
Only a minor trim was required in roll and
pitch.
As I flew the F-117, I noted to myself
that it had exceptionally nice flying
qualities and I was entirely comfortable
with the recommended setup. Rolls were
smooth, but loops did require a dive for
speed.
I learned that under full power of the
Speed 400 I could hold the elevons full
up, and the airplane would maintain
lateral control and was easy to guide
around the sky. I cut the throttle still
holding full up-elevon and found that the
airplane was still controllable. Releasing
the up command resulted in a nice, flat
glide angle, as can be seen in the landing
photos.
The landing approach was flat and
slow. I cut the power over the end of the
flying field, and as the ground approached
I gradually fed in elevator until I had full
up just at touchdown. Since I had chosen
to land on the runway, the model slid just
a few feet and stopped. Landings on the
grass are just as smooth and much
quieter!
On subsequent flights I used a bungee
system to launch the F-117. I enjoy the
way the airplane looks after release as it
leaps into the air. I made a bungee that
takes approximately five minutes to get
ready to fly.
I screwed a corkscrew stake used for a
dog-leash holder into the ground. The
bungee is 20 feet of approximately 3⁄16-
inch surgical tubing and 5 feet of string,
all of which I connected with key rings. I
epoxied a hook in a slot made in the
fuselage, as shown in a photo. I cut the
hook from 1⁄4 plywood and shaped it to
also serve as a landing skid.
The bungee launches have been great
when the model attains roughly 5 feet of
altitude before the power is applied. But
be sure to arm the ESC (if required);
otherwise, it will be a landing too.
I have made many flights since the first,
and I enjoy flying this airplane. The F-
117’s unusual looks and good flying
qualities have made it one of my favorite
models to fly. It is easy to construct; a
beginner could build it successfully. This
could be a first aileron (elevon) trainer
with just a few minutes of buddy box or
instructor help. I recommend it for a great
deal of enjoyment. MA
Specifications:
Type: Kit with molded-foam structure and
plastic parts
Wingspan: 30 inches
Wing area: 400 square inches
Length: 30 inches
Recommended weight: None
Review model’s ready-to-fly weight: 23
ounces including eight-cell 500AR Ni-Cd
Engine: Speed 400 6-volt electric motor
with Gunther push-on propeller
Radio recommended: Three-channel—
elevons and motor control
Radio used in review: Futaba 8U
transmitter, Hitec 555 receiver, Hitec HS-
55 servos, 20-amp ESC
Equipment needed to fly model:
Transmitter, receiver, two servos, ESC,
motor battery
Manufacturer:
D.C.R.C. Electric
812 E. 3rd
Molalla OR 97038
www.dcrcradiocontrol.com
Street price: $79.99 from D.C.R.C. with
free shipping
Products used in review:
Futaba 8U Super Series radio system
(discontinued):
Great Planes Model Distributors
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-8970
www.futaba-rc.com/radios/
Hitec HS-55 servos:
Hitec RCD USA, Inc.
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
Fax: (858) 748-1767
www.hitecrcd.com
68 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 68

THE VENTURE CP is a 30-size ARF
helicopter that features CCPM:
Collective/Cyclic Pitch Mixing. This was
my first experience with CCPM, so even
though I had read a lot about it and seen it
in use, I had not had the opportunity to
“play” with it.
CCPM does away with the normal
mixing base levers and, through the mixing
in the radio, causes the three servos that
normally control the swashplate
(collective, elevator, and aileron) to work
together for each of the functions. This
combined force of three servos provides
more power to the swashplate, better
centering, and increased precision.
With this machine, you should not have
to use the high-end servos you would
normally use on a helicopter. The Venture
uses a 120° CCPM swashplate with the
roll/pitch functions on the rear two control
links. The front servo controls the elevator
and one-third of the pitch function.
The Venture CP features a full ballbearing
rotor head; many other machines in
this class use partial ball bearings and
bushings. Additionally, there are ball
bearings at almost all other critical areas.
Packaging and Contents: The Venture
was securely packaged in a large, sturdy
box sporting a full-color label of a Venture
in flight. When I opened the main box, I
was greeted by three more boxes; one
contained the blades, tailboom with
attached tail rotor assembly, and other
accessory bags; one contained the main
assembly (assembled frames, canopy); and
one contained the tail fins, etc.
Everything was packaged to eliminate
damage and provide logical parts grouping
for assembly. There were eight bags of
small parts, and each was grouped to be
used one step at a time. This made
assembly much easier and is common
among the JR helicopter kits I’ve built. By
the time I was finished with my Ergo 60, I
had enough small plastic bags for a lifetime,
so only having eight in this kit shows how
prefabricated the Venture CP is.
54 MODEL AVIATION
Steve Kaluf
P r o d u c t R e v i e w
E-mail: [email protected]
JR Venture 30 CP ARF
The Venture is a great model and is available at a super bargain price!
Pros:
• Excellent value for the price.
• Assembly/setup manual.
• Ability to function as a docile trainer
or 3-D machine.
• Good, strong design.
• Quick assembly.
Cons:
• Minor errors in manual’s
illustrations.
• Computer radio needed. (Probably
more of a pro than con for anyone
starting out.)
• Need to trim plastic blade mounts to
fold blades.
• Single tailboom support restricts
access to engine and glow plug.
• Long servo arms needed. (JR arms
are included, though!)
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:48 am Page 54
56 MODEL AVIATION
Assembly: This will not be a construction
article; however, I will point out some
assembly features of interest that could
influence your decision to purchase or not
to purchase this machine.
At first glance, I thought the Venture
was going to take a fair amount of work to
get into the air; there seemed to be many
parts. I was wrong. I received the kit in late
June of last year, so I had to put it on hold
until after the Nationals; I’m just a bit too
busy at work during this time period. I had
hoped to have it ready for the IRCHA
(International Radio Controlled Helicopter
Association) Jamboree in August;
unfortunately, time did not permit that
either.
However, on Sunday afternoon at the
Jamboree, things were winding down and
my flying buddy Craig Bradley and I were
sitting around in our pit area. One of us
said, “We ought to put the Venture
together,” and with that I gathered up the
box, procured a large table, and started
assembly. We spent approximately an hour
and a half on the machine, and that short
amount of time was more than enough to
complete the basic assembly.
The instructions were typical JR Heli
Division: exceptionally well done, step-bystep,
with clear illustrations. The tailboom
was fully assembled with the tail rotor
assembly and boom support already
attached.
The tail-rotor belt was preinstalled in
the tailboom. I like belt drives; my main
machine is an Ergo 60, and the belt drive
has never failed me—even when it has
been really loose.
The tailboom simply slipped into the
frames; I looped the belt over the drive
pulley, tightened four bolts and two
setscrews, and I was finished. The
setscrews are a welcome addition that my
Ergo does not have. They will help keep
Shown are the helicopter’s main components as they come out of the box. Everything
was safely and neatly packaged to prevent damage.
This is the completely assembled Venture CP. All that is left to do is finish the radioequipment
installation and mount the canopy.
The Venture CP takes to the air on its first test flight. It was extremely easy to maintain
a nice, stable hover. Photo by Andrew Kaluf.
Only eight small parts bags are needed to
complete assembly. Each bag is packaged
to be used in individual steps.
Photos by the author except as noted
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 56
the boom from slipping and the belt tight.
With the simple addition of the tailboom,
the Venture suddenly looked like a
helicopter.
When installing the long control rod for
the rotor pitch, be sure to space the rod
supports on the boom as shown in the
instructions and position them to give the
rod the smoothest flow and movement
between the tail-rotor link and the servo.
Do this check before hooking the links up
to the servo or tail-rotor control arm, and
adjust until it is as good as it can be.
Engine/clutch/fan installation was next.
During the first few days of the Jamboree I
looked around for an engine and pipe for
the Venture. I was going to choose the
Thunder Tiger .39, the Webra .35, or the
O.S. Max .32. I talked to many people and
got almost as many opinions on which to
use. I finally settled on the O.S. .32.
Ron Lund from Rick’s R/C Helicopters
gave me a good price and further enticed
me with a just-delivered Curtis
Youngblood Enterprises Muscle Pipe II.
This is a new pipe for the 30-class engines.
It looks like I got one of the first ones.
One of the great things about the
Jamboree is that almost everyone who is
anyone in helicopters is there, including
Curtis. He was happy to talk to me about
the new pipe. (More about that later.)
The engine mount supplied with the
Venture was a plastic-type material that
appeared to be the same thing from which
the frames and other plastic parts were
made. This seemed to be a super-strong
material.
The mount’s holes were offset to
accommodate Webra and O.S. engines. For
one you turn the mount in one direction,
and for the other you turn the mount in the
other direction. I suspect that the mount
would also accommodate the Thunder
Tiger .39; I know of people using that
engine in the Venture. All mounting
hardware was supplied.
Once the mount was on the O.S., I
installed the clutch/fan assembly on the
engine. This assembly mounted right on
what would be the propeller drive boss, so
be sure your engine has this included; the
O.S. does. Be sure to use thread lock
everywhere the manual directs you to. I put
a dial indicator on the clutch and was quite
happy to find that the runout was
minimal—excellent, in fact.
The Venture’s frames were strong and
not flat as you’d normally find on a
helicopter kit. They were molded and
bolted together, so there were no standoffs
as you’d normally find. JR calls this a box
frame system. I feel that the Venture would
have outstanding crash survivability.
The engine with mounted fan/clutch
slipped in between the frames with the
engine cylinder facing the rear. I lined up
the bottom of the clutch with the bottom of
the clutch bell and checked around the
sides to make sure the clutch was not
misaligned. Everything seemed to line up
perfectly. I also checked the gear lash
between the main and drive gears using a
thin piece of paper. It, too, seemed perfect.
The engine mount had slots into which
aircraft nuts could be inserted. The bolts
had large finish-type washers that spread
the load on the frames. This made engine
installation incredibly easy.
The only real criticism I have of this
machine is the single tailboom support.
Don’t get me wrong; it was plenty strong.
However, the support tended to block
access to the glow plug. I did not install a
plug before I installed the engine, and even
though I have a long glow-plug wrench, I
could not install the plug without removing
the boom support from the attachment
point on the rear of the frames.
This may not be a big bother in normal
operation, but it could be a real problem if
you were in a contest; the clock would tick
away while you tried to get a new plug in.
The frames seemed to have attachment
points for a dual boom support, so perhaps
JR has already recognized this setback.
The servo installation was next. This is
important, and you must have the servos
installed and the output arms centered to
install the linkages. The manual provided
good illustrations of how the servos and
output arms were to be oriented. Be sure to
follow this carefully; it is critical for the
proper setup of the machine.
There were a couple discrepancies in
58 MODEL AVIATION
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 58
60 MODEL AVIATION
the illustrations for the left-side front
servo. The first illustrations showed it
correctly oriented on its side, and later
ones showed it on end. This was obviously
incorrect because the mount was actually
sideways in the frame.
Screws and washers were supplied to
properly mount the servos. One side of
each of the mounts moved a little to
accommodate the slightly different servo
sizes. Make sure that you insert the
mounting screws into the holes in the
mount—not between the mount and the
frame. A good light is necessary to see in
the frame and confirm that everything is
right.
The linkages were preassembled, and
the manual showed the exact length to
which each should be set. I set each
linkage to the proper length and made sure
the arms were oriented correctly. I was
rewarded with a level swashplate the first
time I turned on the radio!
I also found the CCPM setup to be
easier; there were fewer bellcranks and
levers to worry about keeping 90° to this
or that and to line up.
One of the last things you do is cut out
the windshield for the canopy (which
fortunately is ready to go). I don’t enjoy
cutting out windshields—probably because
I’m not very good it at. The best advice I
can give you is to use a good, sharp pair of
scissors with fairly short blades. The
special ones made for cutting out RC car
bodies work the best. Long blades will not
take the curves sharp enough.
The windshield had cutting guidelines,
so this one was not too bad to cut out. I
like to cut a little wide of the markings so I
can use sandpaper to smooth the cuts down
to the line; that also radiuses the curves
nicely. According to the manual, the
windshield is held in place with six sheetmetal
screws; however, only five were
supplied.
This was the first ARF helicopter I had
ever assembled. I had a few concerns
about ARFs in general, one of which was
the quality of the machine’s preassembly.
Would I find critical bolts or screws that
were loose?
To eliminate those worries, I went
through every bolt, nut, and screw on the
Venture to make sure everything was
properly tight. I’m happy to report that I
did not find a single loose fastener.
Another concern I’ve always had was
about the knowledge lost by not
assembling the entire machine—not
having the full assembly instructions.
The Venture’s manual took care of at
least part of that by supplying complete
assembly instructions for all the
preassembled components. The manual
also had exploded views for the entire
machine. So if I ever have to take my
Venture completely apart, I will have
complete assembly instructions if I need
them. This is a great feature.
The Venture had a low parts count,
which is an advantage from a couple of
perspectives. The main advantage is that
the fewer parts there are, the less
complicated the machine tends to be. And
the less complicated the machine, the
easier it is to properly maintain. The
Venture CP is sure to be easy to maintain
indeed.
Radio setup would have been well
documented in the manual if I had a JR;
the instructions provided exact settings for
all helicopter systems the company
manufactures. If you use a different brand,
as I did, the instructions still provide you
with most of what you need to make the
initial setup simple. Just pick the radiosetup
instructions that match your system
the closest.
I started out setting the servo reversing
to what the manual recommended; that is
not always right, but it gets you close.
With CCPM, you also need to set up your
radio for the CCPM swashplate. Most
current systems have this preprogrammed
in; be sure to select the correct one. My
Futaba 9C’s manual was good at
explaining this and had a chart to help
troubleshoot the setup.
Flight Test: Once everything was going in
the right direction and checked again, it
was time for the first test flight. I chose to
leave the canopy off for the first quick
flight so I could see all the linkages and to
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 60
62 MODEL AVIATION
allow the engine as much cooling as
possible.
The O.S. .32 fired as soon as the fuel
had made it into the carburetor. The engine
was set purposely rich for break-in. I
slowly advanced the throttle, but the
engine was a bit too rich to take off. I
leaned it roughly a half turn and tried
again. That time the blades spooled up
fine.
I could tell right away that the pitch
curve was a bit low and the throttle curve
was a bit high. However, advancing the
throttle to slightly less than three-quarters
lifted the Venture off. This initial hover at
approximately a foot off the ground was
almost hands off. I let the engine run there
for roughly a half tank, and then I landed
the model and shut it down to cool off, and
I checked all the mechanics.
The engine and mechanics looked
good. I made adjustments to the pitch and
throttle curves to get everything more to
my liking for hovering. Not having worked
with a 30-size machine before, I was
unprepared for what sounded like the
engine revving fairly high. The Muscle
Pipe was also a bit louder than I expected.
Curtis told me that you can use a wire
tie to constrict the exhaust diverter and
make the pipe quieter without losing
performance, but I haven’t tried that yet. I
was greatly impressed by the amount of
available power the engine/pipe package
delivered. Curtis also told me to resist the
temptation to lean the engine out with this
pipe. I like to run a little on the rich side
anyway, so that was almost welcome news
to me.
I installed the canopy and fired up for
another test flight. The pitch curve was
much better, although I still felt that the
engine was turning up higher than it
needed to. The machine was stable in the
hover—much more so than I expected for
a 30-size machine. The controls were
crisp.
Over the course of the next four tanks
of fuel, I could feel the engine getting
better and better. I slowly leaned the high
end and finally the low end just a bit. The
throttle response was instantaneous, and
the engine/pipe combination pulled very
strong. I also pulled the throttle curve
down a bit more.
The machine is stable in the hover at a
head speed of 1,520-1,540 rpm. I’ve had it
as low as 1,350 with no wobble at all,
although it is thought to maintain a steady
altitude at that rpm. Flying some slow- to
medium-speed circuits (in the normal
flight condition) showed that the head
speed remained fairly steady. The Venture
is smooth at these speeds; the tail seems to
have plenty of authority.
I also feel that dialing in the pitch and
throttle curves has been easier than on my
Ergo. Even though the Ergo is great, there
are times when I still feel as though I’m
chasing the curves a bit. That does not
seem to be the case with the Venture so
far. I don’t know for sure if it is because of
the CCPM setup or the new parts, but
whatever it is works.
The Venture has another unique
feature; it came with two flybars, two sets
of paddles, and paddle weights. The
paddles that are installed on the machine
are what the novice helicopter pilot would
use.
The kit also included weights that
slipped inside the paddles. These, for some
reason, were not mentioned in the
instructions except in the back of the
manual where it showed how to assemble
the preassembled parts.
The “stock” paddles are not overly
sensitive without these weights, so I’m not
sure you would want to install them.
However, if you needed to calm things
down a bit, I’m sure that installing the
weights would be a good starting point
because they do slow the response
somewhat.
The second flybar and paddles are for
3-D. I’m not a 3-D pilot, so I can’t give
you a full report, but installing this
flybar/paddle combination does liven it up
quite a bit. There is a great deal of control
authority available.
I’m also extraordinarily impressed that
with sport, non-ball-bearing servos, the
controls are crisp and have terrific
precision. I’ve watched Ventures do many
extreme 3-D maneuvers, so I know they
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 62
are more than capable—even if I’m not.
The wooden blades included seem
pretty good. They balanced with only a
small piece of tape on one blade. They
performed well in the hover, and they
worked well doing circuits, maintaining
head speed well while flying around. The
blades do seem to slow down fairly fast in
a low-level autorotation, but I still have
enough collective left from as high as 15
feet to get down safely with only a gentle
bounce.
Final Impressions: I like it! The Venture
is generally available for roughly $269 at
most hobby shops and almost everywhere I
checked online. The parts are inexpensive
(and readily available); a tailboom is
$11.39, a main shaft is $8.99, a flybar is
$9.50, main blades are $26.99, and tail
rotor blades are $9.98. I put $190 into the
engine and pipe. The servos are an
inexpensive sport type.
So for approximately $500 you can
have a top-notch model that is ready to go.
But the Venture is much more than an
inexpensive, easy-to-assemble helicopter;
it is a capable machine that is a lot of fun
to fly.
In the short time I’ve had the Venture,
I’ve found myself trying things I’ve done
before. It tends to inspire confidence and
experimentation. I don’t know if it’s
because of the lower cost investment or
not, but I feel that it is because it flies so
well.
I will be upgrading the tail rotor’s
servo; the slower sport servo lags behind
the gyro rather quickly. The Venture is a
super entry-level machine, but it should not
be overlooked by those who want a nimble
30-size machine. It will do it all. MA
Specifications:
Rotor diameter: 49.5 inches
Tail-rotor diameter: 9.3 inches
Gear ratio: 9.78:1:5.18
Overall length: 44.6 inches
Height: 17.2 inches
Weight as tested): 7 pounds, 2 ounces
(with 1800 mAh battery)
Distributor:
Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
(800) 338-4639
Fax: (217) 352-6799
www.horizonhobby.com
Other products used in review:
Futaba 9CHP radio, GY401 gyroscope:
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-3636
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
64 MODEL AVIATION
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 64
P r o d u c t R e v i e w David Adams
E-mail: [email protected]
D.C.R.C. Electric F-117A
Pros:
• Unique-looking model.
• Fully molded upper fuselage part.
• Nicely cut wing.
• Good flight characteristics at all
speeds.
• Great fun factor.
• Quick build time.
• Uses standard Speed 400 motor.
Cons:
• More expensive than similar
models.
• Motor and propeller are not
included.
THE F-117 IS a unique airplane that
almost every modeler can recognize. This
uniqueness usually brings with it some
awkward flying characteristics, so few
models of the airplane can be found at the
flying field—much less one that flies
nicely.
The full-scale airplane’s faceted
fuselage surfaces along with its highly
swept wings and small vertical tails create
unusual design problems for the potential
model designer. Fred Countryman at
D.C.R.C. Electric has met the challenge
with a quick-building and nice-flying
standoff-scale model.
When you are at the flying field, no one
is going to mistake this black machine for a
Piper Cub. The term “rakish” was probably
coined for this aircraft.
Assembly: D.C.R.C. has a Web site on
which you can purchase the model and
watch a video showing it in flight. The
company advertises that the F-117A can be
assembled in two hours. I took a little
longer, but I had never built a foam-andtape
model before, and I needed a few
layers of tape to get the hang of it.
Although the finish will not win a
contest, it does achieve what the designer
wanted: a light model with a low wing
loading that produces good flying
characteristics with a Speed 400 electric
motor. The instructions advise against
using any other finishing method, which
would add weight to the model, and I
agree. The light wing loading is the key to
this model’s flying well.
All foam parts are precut. The wings are
The F-117A is capable of loops and rolls, and it needs a full-size field from which to fly.
It’s fast, nimble, and will draw looks from spectators.
The landing approach is flat and slow. You just cut the power, and as the aircraft nears
the ground, feed in up-elevator until it touches down.
cut from a block of white foam. You can
use the lower parts of the foam blanks as a
cradle when building. The verticals and aft
part of the wing/fuselage are made from 1⁄4-
inch construction-quality foam. It has a
slick finish on each side, which gives it
more strength than cut foam alone. Both
rudders are cut from this foam and have
proven flightworthy even in extended
vertical dives. The motor mount is made
from 1⁄8 hard plywood, and the elevons are
precut from rigid foam.
The instructions are minimal but
adequate, with photos provided for clarity.
A remarkably small number of steps are
required to finish the F-117, which makes
66 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 66
August 2004 67
the build time fast. Do pay attention to the
angle at which the vertical tails are set.
There is a foam piece to set the angle, but
apparently some builders have managed to
angle the tails inward—not outward as
they should be.
The preformed plastic upper fuselage
surface gives shape with light weight and
incorporates the delightful angles typical
of the F-117. The upper fuselage surface is
held on with hook-and-loop fastener tape
and is removable for easy access to
batteries and radio gear.
I added the sticky-backed decals to the
model, including the nice gold-tinted
windshield. There are no tricky or unusual
steps required to make the model, and even
a beginner could build it successfully.
Equipment: I powered my F-117 with the
recommended 6-volt Speed 400 motor with
a Gunther pusher propeller. (The first
flights were with a nylon Tornado 5 x 4
You can easily see the Speed 400 six-volt motor that the author installed.
The F-117A has good flight characteristics
at all speeds. It isn’t a trainer, but it isn’t
difficult to fly either.
Notice the model’s fully molded upper fuselage section and the nicely cut foam wing
sections. A nice decal package is included with the kit.
This is a fun airplane, and it’s something
different to try. Another plus is that it’s
easy and quick to assemble.
propeller, but subsequent flights have been
with the Gunther, which I prefer.)
I used an eight-cell 500 mAh Ni-Cd
battery, and the motor was controlled by an
unknown manufacturer’s (the label was
torn off) 20-amp ESC. The servos were
Hitec HS-55s, although any miniservo
would have been suitable. Don’t use
normal-size servos; they will just add to the
weight.
I used a Futaba 8U radio system with a
dual-conversion receiver so I could fly at
the local flying site. A microreceiver would
allow better flight performance if
interference weren’t a problem. The battery
was located in the nose section with hookand-
loop fasteners, which caused the CG to
fall at the recommended position.
Flight Test: The airplane needs a full-size
field from which to fly (as would any
Speed 400-powered model). I set up the
control throws as recommended. I didn’t
do any test glides because I have learned
that I don’t get much information from my
height, and I am more likely to make a
mistake in judging the necessary flying
speed with an unknown airplane.
The F-117 is easy to hand launch under
power if you cut the launching notch in the
bottom of the fuselage as instructed. I also
made some small finger holes in the
bottom of the wing to help me grip the
airplane with my fingers before launch.
The first hand launch was easy, and with a
whine from the Speed 400 motor, the
airplane was off with a nice climb angle.
Photos by the author
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 67
Only a minor trim was required in roll and
pitch.
As I flew the F-117, I noted to myself
that it had exceptionally nice flying
qualities and I was entirely comfortable
with the recommended setup. Rolls were
smooth, but loops did require a dive for
speed.
I learned that under full power of the
Speed 400 I could hold the elevons full
up, and the airplane would maintain
lateral control and was easy to guide
around the sky. I cut the throttle still
holding full up-elevon and found that the
airplane was still controllable. Releasing
the up command resulted in a nice, flat
glide angle, as can be seen in the landing
photos.
The landing approach was flat and
slow. I cut the power over the end of the
flying field, and as the ground approached
I gradually fed in elevator until I had full
up just at touchdown. Since I had chosen
to land on the runway, the model slid just
a few feet and stopped. Landings on the
grass are just as smooth and much
quieter!
On subsequent flights I used a bungee
system to launch the F-117. I enjoy the
way the airplane looks after release as it
leaps into the air. I made a bungee that
takes approximately five minutes to get
ready to fly.
I screwed a corkscrew stake used for a
dog-leash holder into the ground. The
bungee is 20 feet of approximately 3⁄16-
inch surgical tubing and 5 feet of string,
all of which I connected with key rings. I
epoxied a hook in a slot made in the
fuselage, as shown in a photo. I cut the
hook from 1⁄4 plywood and shaped it to
also serve as a landing skid.
The bungee launches have been great
when the model attains roughly 5 feet of
altitude before the power is applied. But
be sure to arm the ESC (if required);
otherwise, it will be a landing too.
I have made many flights since the first,
and I enjoy flying this airplane. The F-
117’s unusual looks and good flying
qualities have made it one of my favorite
models to fly. It is easy to construct; a
beginner could build it successfully. This
could be a first aileron (elevon) trainer
with just a few minutes of buddy box or
instructor help. I recommend it for a great
deal of enjoyment. MA
Specifications:
Type: Kit with molded-foam structure and
plastic parts
Wingspan: 30 inches
Wing area: 400 square inches
Length: 30 inches
Recommended weight: None
Review model’s ready-to-fly weight: 23
ounces including eight-cell 500AR Ni-Cd
Engine: Speed 400 6-volt electric motor
with Gunther push-on propeller
Radio recommended: Three-channel—
elevons and motor control
Radio used in review: Futaba 8U
transmitter, Hitec 555 receiver, Hitec HS-
55 servos, 20-amp ESC
Equipment needed to fly model:
Transmitter, receiver, two servos, ESC,
motor battery
Manufacturer:
D.C.R.C. Electric
812 E. 3rd
Molalla OR 97038
www.dcrcradiocontrol.com
Street price: $79.99 from D.C.R.C. with
free shipping
Products used in review:
Futaba 8U Super Series radio system
(discontinued):
Great Planes Model Distributors
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-8970
www.futaba-rc.com/radios/
Hitec HS-55 servos:
Hitec RCD USA, Inc.
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
Fax: (858) 748-1767
www.hitecrcd.com
68 MODEL AVIATION
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 68

THE VENTURE CP is a 30-size ARF
helicopter that features CCPM:
Collective/Cyclic Pitch Mixing. This was
my first experience with CCPM, so even
though I had read a lot about it and seen it
in use, I had not had the opportunity to
“play” with it.
CCPM does away with the normal
mixing base levers and, through the mixing
in the radio, causes the three servos that
normally control the swashplate
(collective, elevator, and aileron) to work
together for each of the functions. This
combined force of three servos provides
more power to the swashplate, better
centering, and increased precision.
With this machine, you should not have
to use the high-end servos you would
normally use on a helicopter. The Venture
uses a 120° CCPM swashplate with the
roll/pitch functions on the rear two control
links. The front servo controls the elevator
and one-third of the pitch function.
The Venture CP features a full ballbearing
rotor head; many other machines in
this class use partial ball bearings and
bushings. Additionally, there are ball
bearings at almost all other critical areas.
Packaging and Contents: The Venture
was securely packaged in a large, sturdy
box sporting a full-color label of a Venture
in flight. When I opened the main box, I
was greeted by three more boxes; one
contained the blades, tailboom with
attached tail rotor assembly, and other
accessory bags; one contained the main
assembly (assembled frames, canopy); and
one contained the tail fins, etc.
Everything was packaged to eliminate
damage and provide logical parts grouping
for assembly. There were eight bags of
small parts, and each was grouped to be
used one step at a time. This made
assembly much easier and is common
among the JR helicopter kits I’ve built. By
the time I was finished with my Ergo 60, I
had enough small plastic bags for a lifetime,
so only having eight in this kit shows how
prefabricated the Venture CP is.
54 MODEL AVIATION
Steve Kaluf
P r o d u c t R e v i e w
E-mail: [email protected]
JR Venture 30 CP ARF
The Venture is a great model and is available at a super bargain price!
Pros:
• Excellent value for the price.
• Assembly/setup manual.
• Ability to function as a docile trainer
or 3-D machine.
• Good, strong design.
• Quick assembly.
Cons:
• Minor errors in manual’s
illustrations.
• Computer radio needed. (Probably
more of a pro than con for anyone
starting out.)
• Need to trim plastic blade mounts to
fold blades.
• Single tailboom support restricts
access to engine and glow plug.
• Long servo arms needed. (JR arms
are included, though!)
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:48 am Page 54
56 MODEL AVIATION
Assembly: This will not be a construction
article; however, I will point out some
assembly features of interest that could
influence your decision to purchase or not
to purchase this machine.
At first glance, I thought the Venture
was going to take a fair amount of work to
get into the air; there seemed to be many
parts. I was wrong. I received the kit in late
June of last year, so I had to put it on hold
until after the Nationals; I’m just a bit too
busy at work during this time period. I had
hoped to have it ready for the IRCHA
(International Radio Controlled Helicopter
Association) Jamboree in August;
unfortunately, time did not permit that
either.
However, on Sunday afternoon at the
Jamboree, things were winding down and
my flying buddy Craig Bradley and I were
sitting around in our pit area. One of us
said, “We ought to put the Venture
together,” and with that I gathered up the
box, procured a large table, and started
assembly. We spent approximately an hour
and a half on the machine, and that short
amount of time was more than enough to
complete the basic assembly.
The instructions were typical JR Heli
Division: exceptionally well done, step-bystep,
with clear illustrations. The tailboom
was fully assembled with the tail rotor
assembly and boom support already
attached.
The tail-rotor belt was preinstalled in
the tailboom. I like belt drives; my main
machine is an Ergo 60, and the belt drive
has never failed me—even when it has
been really loose.
The tailboom simply slipped into the
frames; I looped the belt over the drive
pulley, tightened four bolts and two
setscrews, and I was finished. The
setscrews are a welcome addition that my
Ergo does not have. They will help keep
Shown are the helicopter’s main components as they come out of the box. Everything
was safely and neatly packaged to prevent damage.
This is the completely assembled Venture CP. All that is left to do is finish the radioequipment
installation and mount the canopy.
The Venture CP takes to the air on its first test flight. It was extremely easy to maintain
a nice, stable hover. Photo by Andrew Kaluf.
Only eight small parts bags are needed to
complete assembly. Each bag is packaged
to be used in individual steps.
Photos by the author except as noted
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 56
the boom from slipping and the belt tight.
With the simple addition of the tailboom,
the Venture suddenly looked like a
helicopter.
When installing the long control rod for
the rotor pitch, be sure to space the rod
supports on the boom as shown in the
instructions and position them to give the
rod the smoothest flow and movement
between the tail-rotor link and the servo.
Do this check before hooking the links up
to the servo or tail-rotor control arm, and
adjust until it is as good as it can be.
Engine/clutch/fan installation was next.
During the first few days of the Jamboree I
looked around for an engine and pipe for
the Venture. I was going to choose the
Thunder Tiger .39, the Webra .35, or the
O.S. Max .32. I talked to many people and
got almost as many opinions on which to
use. I finally settled on the O.S. .32.
Ron Lund from Rick’s R/C Helicopters
gave me a good price and further enticed
me with a just-delivered Curtis
Youngblood Enterprises Muscle Pipe II.
This is a new pipe for the 30-class engines.
It looks like I got one of the first ones.
One of the great things about the
Jamboree is that almost everyone who is
anyone in helicopters is there, including
Curtis. He was happy to talk to me about
the new pipe. (More about that later.)
The engine mount supplied with the
Venture was a plastic-type material that
appeared to be the same thing from which
the frames and other plastic parts were
made. This seemed to be a super-strong
material.
The mount’s holes were offset to
accommodate Webra and O.S. engines. For
one you turn the mount in one direction,
and for the other you turn the mount in the
other direction. I suspect that the mount
would also accommodate the Thunder
Tiger .39; I know of people using that
engine in the Venture. All mounting
hardware was supplied.
Once the mount was on the O.S., I
installed the clutch/fan assembly on the
engine. This assembly mounted right on
what would be the propeller drive boss, so
be sure your engine has this included; the
O.S. does. Be sure to use thread lock
everywhere the manual directs you to. I put
a dial indicator on the clutch and was quite
happy to find that the runout was
minimal—excellent, in fact.
The Venture’s frames were strong and
not flat as you’d normally find on a
helicopter kit. They were molded and
bolted together, so there were no standoffs
as you’d normally find. JR calls this a box
frame system. I feel that the Venture would
have outstanding crash survivability.
The engine with mounted fan/clutch
slipped in between the frames with the
engine cylinder facing the rear. I lined up
the bottom of the clutch with the bottom of
the clutch bell and checked around the
sides to make sure the clutch was not
misaligned. Everything seemed to line up
perfectly. I also checked the gear lash
between the main and drive gears using a
thin piece of paper. It, too, seemed perfect.
The engine mount had slots into which
aircraft nuts could be inserted. The bolts
had large finish-type washers that spread
the load on the frames. This made engine
installation incredibly easy.
The only real criticism I have of this
machine is the single tailboom support.
Don’t get me wrong; it was plenty strong.
However, the support tended to block
access to the glow plug. I did not install a
plug before I installed the engine, and even
though I have a long glow-plug wrench, I
could not install the plug without removing
the boom support from the attachment
point on the rear of the frames.
This may not be a big bother in normal
operation, but it could be a real problem if
you were in a contest; the clock would tick
away while you tried to get a new plug in.
The frames seemed to have attachment
points for a dual boom support, so perhaps
JR has already recognized this setback.
The servo installation was next. This is
important, and you must have the servos
installed and the output arms centered to
install the linkages. The manual provided
good illustrations of how the servos and
output arms were to be oriented. Be sure to
follow this carefully; it is critical for the
proper setup of the machine.
There were a couple discrepancies in
58 MODEL AVIATION
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 58
60 MODEL AVIATION
the illustrations for the left-side front
servo. The first illustrations showed it
correctly oriented on its side, and later
ones showed it on end. This was obviously
incorrect because the mount was actually
sideways in the frame.
Screws and washers were supplied to
properly mount the servos. One side of
each of the mounts moved a little to
accommodate the slightly different servo
sizes. Make sure that you insert the
mounting screws into the holes in the
mount—not between the mount and the
frame. A good light is necessary to see in
the frame and confirm that everything is
right.
The linkages were preassembled, and
the manual showed the exact length to
which each should be set. I set each
linkage to the proper length and made sure
the arms were oriented correctly. I was
rewarded with a level swashplate the first
time I turned on the radio!
I also found the CCPM setup to be
easier; there were fewer bellcranks and
levers to worry about keeping 90° to this
or that and to line up.
One of the last things you do is cut out
the windshield for the canopy (which
fortunately is ready to go). I don’t enjoy
cutting out windshields—probably because
I’m not very good it at. The best advice I
can give you is to use a good, sharp pair of
scissors with fairly short blades. The
special ones made for cutting out RC car
bodies work the best. Long blades will not
take the curves sharp enough.
The windshield had cutting guidelines,
so this one was not too bad to cut out. I
like to cut a little wide of the markings so I
can use sandpaper to smooth the cuts down
to the line; that also radiuses the curves
nicely. According to the manual, the
windshield is held in place with six sheetmetal
screws; however, only five were
supplied.
This was the first ARF helicopter I had
ever assembled. I had a few concerns
about ARFs in general, one of which was
the quality of the machine’s preassembly.
Would I find critical bolts or screws that
were loose?
To eliminate those worries, I went
through every bolt, nut, and screw on the
Venture to make sure everything was
properly tight. I’m happy to report that I
did not find a single loose fastener.
Another concern I’ve always had was
about the knowledge lost by not
assembling the entire machine—not
having the full assembly instructions.
The Venture’s manual took care of at
least part of that by supplying complete
assembly instructions for all the
preassembled components. The manual
also had exploded views for the entire
machine. So if I ever have to take my
Venture completely apart, I will have
complete assembly instructions if I need
them. This is a great feature.
The Venture had a low parts count,
which is an advantage from a couple of
perspectives. The main advantage is that
the fewer parts there are, the less
complicated the machine tends to be. And
the less complicated the machine, the
easier it is to properly maintain. The
Venture CP is sure to be easy to maintain
indeed.
Radio setup would have been well
documented in the manual if I had a JR;
the instructions provided exact settings for
all helicopter systems the company
manufactures. If you use a different brand,
as I did, the instructions still provide you
with most of what you need to make the
initial setup simple. Just pick the radiosetup
instructions that match your system
the closest.
I started out setting the servo reversing
to what the manual recommended; that is
not always right, but it gets you close.
With CCPM, you also need to set up your
radio for the CCPM swashplate. Most
current systems have this preprogrammed
in; be sure to select the correct one. My
Futaba 9C’s manual was good at
explaining this and had a chart to help
troubleshoot the setup.
Flight Test: Once everything was going in
the right direction and checked again, it
was time for the first test flight. I chose to
leave the canopy off for the first quick
flight so I could see all the linkages and to
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:49 am Page 60
62 MODEL AVIATION
allow the engine as much cooling as
possible.
The O.S. .32 fired as soon as the fuel
had made it into the carburetor. The engine
was set purposely rich for break-in. I
slowly advanced the throttle, but the
engine was a bit too rich to take off. I
leaned it roughly a half turn and tried
again. That time the blades spooled up
fine.
I could tell right away that the pitch
curve was a bit low and the throttle curve
was a bit high. However, advancing the
throttle to slightly less than three-quarters
lifted the Venture off. This initial hover at
approximately a foot off the ground was
almost hands off. I let the engine run there
for roughly a half tank, and then I landed
the model and shut it down to cool off, and
I checked all the mechanics.
The engine and mechanics looked
good. I made adjustments to the pitch and
throttle curves to get everything more to
my liking for hovering. Not having worked
with a 30-size machine before, I was
unprepared for what sounded like the
engine revving fairly high. The Muscle
Pipe was also a bit louder than I expected.
Curtis told me that you can use a wire
tie to constrict the exhaust diverter and
make the pipe quieter without losing
performance, but I haven’t tried that yet. I
was greatly impressed by the amount of
available power the engine/pipe package
delivered. Curtis also told me to resist the
temptation to lean the engine out with this
pipe. I like to run a little on the rich side
anyway, so that was almost welcome news
to me.
I installed the canopy and fired up for
another test flight. The pitch curve was
much better, although I still felt that the
engine was turning up higher than it
needed to. The machine was stable in the
hover—much more so than I expected for
a 30-size machine. The controls were
crisp.
Over the course of the next four tanks
of fuel, I could feel the engine getting
better and better. I slowly leaned the high
end and finally the low end just a bit. The
throttle response was instantaneous, and
the engine/pipe combination pulled very
strong. I also pulled the throttle curve
down a bit more.
The machine is stable in the hover at a
head speed of 1,520-1,540 rpm. I’ve had it
as low as 1,350 with no wobble at all,
although it is thought to maintain a steady
altitude at that rpm. Flying some slow- to
medium-speed circuits (in the normal
flight condition) showed that the head
speed remained fairly steady. The Venture
is smooth at these speeds; the tail seems to
have plenty of authority.
I also feel that dialing in the pitch and
throttle curves has been easier than on my
Ergo. Even though the Ergo is great, there
are times when I still feel as though I’m
chasing the curves a bit. That does not
seem to be the case with the Venture so
far. I don’t know for sure if it is because of
the CCPM setup or the new parts, but
whatever it is works.
The Venture has another unique
feature; it came with two flybars, two sets
of paddles, and paddle weights. The
paddles that are installed on the machine
are what the novice helicopter pilot would
use.
The kit also included weights that
slipped inside the paddles. These, for some
reason, were not mentioned in the
instructions except in the back of the
manual where it showed how to assemble
the preassembled parts.
The “stock” paddles are not overly
sensitive without these weights, so I’m not
sure you would want to install them.
However, if you needed to calm things
down a bit, I’m sure that installing the
weights would be a good starting point
because they do slow the response
somewhat.
The second flybar and paddles are for
3-D. I’m not a 3-D pilot, so I can’t give
you a full report, but installing this
flybar/paddle combination does liven it up
quite a bit. There is a great deal of control
authority available.
I’m also extraordinarily impressed that
with sport, non-ball-bearing servos, the
controls are crisp and have terrific
precision. I’ve watched Ventures do many
extreme 3-D maneuvers, so I know they
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08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 62
are more than capable—even if I’m not.
The wooden blades included seem
pretty good. They balanced with only a
small piece of tape on one blade. They
performed well in the hover, and they
worked well doing circuits, maintaining
head speed well while flying around. The
blades do seem to slow down fairly fast in
a low-level autorotation, but I still have
enough collective left from as high as 15
feet to get down safely with only a gentle
bounce.
Final Impressions: I like it! The Venture
is generally available for roughly $269 at
most hobby shops and almost everywhere I
checked online. The parts are inexpensive
(and readily available); a tailboom is
$11.39, a main shaft is $8.99, a flybar is
$9.50, main blades are $26.99, and tail
rotor blades are $9.98. I put $190 into the
engine and pipe. The servos are an
inexpensive sport type.
So for approximately $500 you can
have a top-notch model that is ready to go.
But the Venture is much more than an
inexpensive, easy-to-assemble helicopter;
it is a capable machine that is a lot of fun
to fly.
In the short time I’ve had the Venture,
I’ve found myself trying things I’ve done
before. It tends to inspire confidence and
experimentation. I don’t know if it’s
because of the lower cost investment or
not, but I feel that it is because it flies so
well.
I will be upgrading the tail rotor’s
servo; the slower sport servo lags behind
the gyro rather quickly. The Venture is a
super entry-level machine, but it should not
be overlooked by those who want a nimble
30-size machine. It will do it all. MA
Specifications:
Rotor diameter: 49.5 inches
Tail-rotor diameter: 9.3 inches
Gear ratio: 9.78:1:5.18
Overall length: 44.6 inches
Height: 17.2 inches
Weight as tested): 7 pounds, 2 ounces
(with 1800 mAh battery)
Distributor:
Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign IL 61822
(217) 352-1913
(800) 338-4639
Fax: (217) 352-6799
www.horizonhobby.com
Other products used in review:
Futaba 9CHP radio, GY401 gyroscope:
Tower Hobbies
Box 9078
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-3636
(800) 637-6050
www.towerhobbies.com
64 MODEL AVIATION
Service & Repairs For Most Radio Control Systems,
Utilizing Calibrated Test Equipment & Spectrum Analyzers.
Futaba, Airtronics, JR, Ace, HiTec, Tower, Cirrus, World Engines & More
D&M ELECTRONICS • 1236 Marigold St. NW, Hartville, OH 44632 • 330-877-1445
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• WE USE GENUINE FACTORY REPLACEMENT PARTS
• Endorsed by AMA/RCMA as Sticker Station #105
• 1991/1998 Narrow Banding & Certification
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• RCD / HITEC R/C Dealer
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X-CELL Helicopters
08sig2.QXD 5/24/04 8:50 am Page 64
P r o d u c t R e v i e w David Adams
E-mail: [email protected]
D.C.R.C. Electric F-117A
Pros:
• Unique-looking model.
• Fully molded upper fuselage part.
• Nicely cut wing.
• Good flight characteristics at all
speeds.
• Great fun factor.
• Quick build time.
• Uses standard Speed 400 motor.
Cons:
• More expensive than similar
models.
• Motor and propeller are not
included.
THE F-117 IS a unique airplane that
almost every modeler can recognize. This
uniqueness usually brings with it some
awkward flying characteristics, so few
models of the airplane can be found at the
flying field—much less one that flies
nicely.
The full-scale airplane’s faceted
fuselage surfaces along with its highly
swept wings and small vertical tails create
unusual design problems for the potential
model designer. Fred Countryman at
D.C.R.C. Electric has met the challenge
with a quick-building and nice-flying
standoff-scale model.
When you are at the flying field, no one
is going to mistake this black machine for a
Piper Cub. The term “rakish” was probably
coined for this aircraft.
Assembly: D.C.R.C. has a Web site on
which you can purchase the model and
watch a video showing it in flight. The
company advertises that the F-117A can be
assembled in two hours. I took a little
longer, but I had never built a foam-andtape
model before, and I needed a few
layers of tape to get the hang of it.
Although the finish will not win a
contest, it does achieve what the designer
wanted: a light model with a low wing
loading that produces good flying
characteristics with a Speed 400 electric
motor. The instructions advise against
using any other finishing method, which
would add weight to the model, and I
agree. The light wing loading is the key to
this model’s flying well.
All foam parts are precut. The wings are
The F-117A is capable of loops and rolls, and it needs a full-size field from which to fly.
It’s fast, nimble, and will draw looks from spectators.
The landing approach is flat and slow. You just cut the power, and as the aircraft nears
the ground, feed in up-elevator until it touches down.
cut from a block of white foam. You can
use the lower parts of the foam blanks as a
cradle when building. The verticals and aft
part of the wing/fuselage are made from 1⁄4-
inch construction-quality foam. It has a
slick finish on each side, which gives it
more strength than cut foam alone. Both
rudders are cut from this foam and have
proven flightworthy even in extended
vertical dives. The motor mount is made
from 1⁄8 hard plywood, and the elevons are
precut from rigid foam.
The instructions are minimal but
adequate, with photos provided for clarity.
A remarkably small number of steps are
required to finish the F-117, which makes
66 MODEL AVIATION
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August 2004 67
the build time fast. Do pay attention to the
angle at which the vertical tails are set.
There is a foam piece to set the angle, but
apparently some builders have managed to
angle the tails inward—not outward as
they should be.
The preformed plastic upper fuselage
surface gives shape with light weight and
incorporates the delightful angles typical
of the F-117. The upper fuselage surface is
held on with hook-and-loop fastener tape
and is removable for easy access to
batteries and radio gear.
I added the sticky-backed decals to the
model, including the nice gold-tinted
windshield. There are no tricky or unusual
steps required to make the model, and even
a beginner could build it successfully.
Equipment: I powered my F-117 with the
recommended 6-volt Speed 400 motor with
a Gunther pusher propeller. (The first
flights were with a nylon Tornado 5 x 4
You can easily see the Speed 400 six-volt motor that the author installed.
The F-117A has good flight characteristics
at all speeds. It isn’t a trainer, but it isn’t
difficult to fly either.
Notice the model’s fully molded upper fuselage section and the nicely cut foam wing
sections. A nice decal package is included with the kit.
This is a fun airplane, and it’s something
different to try. Another plus is that it’s
easy and quick to assemble.
propeller, but subsequent flights have been
with the Gunther, which I prefer.)
I used an eight-cell 500 mAh Ni-Cd
battery, and the motor was controlled by an
unknown manufacturer’s (the label was
torn off) 20-amp ESC. The servos were
Hitec HS-55s, although any miniservo
would have been suitable. Don’t use
normal-size servos; they will just add to the
weight.
I used a Futaba 8U radio system with a
dual-conversion receiver so I could fly at
the local flying site. A microreceiver would
allow better flight performance if
interference weren’t a problem. The battery
was located in the nose section with hookand-
loop fasteners, which caused the CG to
fall at the recommended position.
Flight Test: The airplane needs a full-size
field from which to fly (as would any
Speed 400-powered model). I set up the
control throws as recommended. I didn’t
do any test glides because I have learned
that I don’t get much information from my
height, and I am more likely to make a
mistake in judging the necessary flying
speed with an unknown airplane.
The F-117 is easy to hand launch under
power if you cut the launching notch in the
bottom of the fuselage as instructed. I also
made some small finger holes in the
bottom of the wing to help me grip the
airplane with my fingers before launch.
The first hand launch was easy, and with a
whine from the Speed 400 motor, the
airplane was off with a nice climb angle.
Photos by the author
08sig3.QXD 5/21/04 12:25 pm Page 67
Only a minor trim was required in roll and
pitch.
As I flew the F-117, I noted to myself
that it had exceptionally nice flying
qualities and I was entirely comfortable
with the recommended setup. Rolls were
smooth, but loops did require a dive for
speed.
I learned that under full power of the
Speed 400 I could hold the elevons full
up, and the airplane would maintain
lateral control and was easy to guide
around the sky. I cut the throttle still
holding full up-elevon and found that the
airplane was still controllable. Releasing
the up command resulted in a nice, flat
glide angle, as can be seen in the landing
photos.
The landing approach was flat and
slow. I cut the power over the end of the
flying field, and as the ground approached
I gradually fed in elevator until I had full
up just at touchdown. Since I had chosen
to land on the runway, the model slid just
a few feet and stopped. Landings on the
grass are just as smooth and much
quieter!
On subsequent flights I used a bungee
system to launch the F-117. I enjoy the
way the airplane looks after release as it
leaps into the air. I made a bungee that
takes approximately five minutes to get
ready to fly.
I screwed a corkscrew stake used for a
dog-leash holder into the ground. The
bungee is 20 feet of approximately 3⁄16-
inch surgical tubing and 5 feet of string,
all of which I connected with key rings. I
epoxied a hook in a slot made in the
fuselage, as shown in a photo. I cut the
hook from 1⁄4 plywood and shaped it to
also serve as a landing skid.
The bungee launches have been great
when the model attains roughly 5 feet of
altitude before the power is applied. But
be sure to arm the ESC (if required);
otherwise, it will be a landing too.
I have made many flights since the first,
and I enjoy flying this airplane. The F-
117’s unusual looks and good flying
qualities have made it one of my favorite
models to fly. It is easy to construct; a
beginner could build it successfully. This
could be a first aileron (elevon) trainer
with just a few minutes of buddy box or
instructor help. I recommend it for a great
deal of enjoyment. MA
Specifications:
Type: Kit with molded-foam structure and
plastic parts
Wingspan: 30 inches
Wing area: 400 square inches
Length: 30 inches
Recommended weight: None
Review model’s ready-to-fly weight: 23
ounces including eight-cell 500AR Ni-Cd
Engine: Speed 400 6-volt electric motor
with Gunther push-on propeller
Radio recommended: Three-channel—
elevons and motor control
Radio used in review: Futaba 8U
transmitter, Hitec 555 receiver, Hitec HS-
55 servos, 20-amp ESC
Equipment needed to fly model:
Transmitter, receiver, two servos, ESC,
motor battery
Manufacturer:
D.C.R.C. Electric
812 E. 3rd
Molalla OR 97038
www.dcrcradiocontrol.com
Street price: $79.99 from D.C.R.C. with
free shipping
Products used in review:
Futaba 8U Super Series radio system
(discontinued):
Great Planes Model Distributors
Champaign IL 61826
(217) 398-8970
www.futaba-rc.com/radios/
Hitec HS-55 servos:
Hitec RCD USA, Inc.
12115 Paine St.
Poway CA 92064
(858) 748-6948
Fax: (858) 748-1767
www.hitecrcd.com
68 MODEL AVIATION
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