IT SEEMS THAT with the popularity of the electric park flyers and other small electric radio-controlled models, the small glow-engine-powered models—especially the Almost Ready to Flys (ARFs)—have been neglected. Norvel. which is now exclusively distributed by Sig Manufacturing Co. of Montezuma. Iowa, has provided several models to correct this situation. Although noted for its excellent line of engines, mostly in the .049- to .061-cubic-inch range. Norvel does offer an engine as large as .25 cubic inch. It also imports those classy 1/2A-size ARFs under the Neofun label, which include the Vision, the Ucan-2, and the Classic, which is the subject of this review. All of these models have a 41-inch wingspan and weigh approximately 24 ounces. For the most part, all are constructed entirely from wood and covered with an iron-on film. When I received the Neofun Classic ARF kit, I had to look in the kit box to verify that there was something in there. The model is very light compared to the larger ARF kits I am used to. Everything was laid out neatly in the box with cardboard separators to keep individual pieces from being damaged. The quality of the wood and the way in which the model was covered were readily apparent. In addition to the main parts of the model, I found the prebent landing gear with wheels installed, along with complete hardware including the steerable nose-gear assembly and pushrod wires and sticks. A huge sheet of colorful decals and a thorough instruction manual containing photographs and drawings completed the kit. After carefully reading the instructions, including all the warnings, I found the manual to be helpful even as far as providing Web sites for the Norvel models and engines in case of problems 'i. with either. This will be especially helpful for the beginner, who most certainly will have questions. A telephone number is also included for technical support. On to the building! The first step was to cement the wing halves together using the plywood dihedral brace as a guide. I always use epoxy for this high-stress area, although the manual states that either cyanoacrylate (CyA) or epoxy is acceptable. It is important that the fit is tight and that the leading edge and trailing edge are in perfect alignment. A piece of adhesive film strip provided was applied to the center-section, completing the wing assembly. After removing the film covering from the area of the stabilizer where it would join the fuselage and a strip from the fuselage where the rudder would be fastened, 1 epoxied the stabilizer and rudder in place, checking for the proper alignment. After the wing dowels were glued into the prepunched holes in the fuselage for the wing-mount rubber bands, essentially all the gluing was done on the main part of the model. The landing- and nose-gear mounts were screwed into the appropriate areas with the hardware provided. Mounting the servos is left up to the individual, but Norvel does provide a suggested setup with photos. Three servos were mounted on two pieces of plywood (provided) perpendicular to the fuselage side. I took this suggestion because it seemed to be the neatest method after I experimented with other configurations. You won't go wrong if you follow the manual's example. The manual even shows how to bend the pushrod wires in several sketches, and it works! I like to bend all pushrods and mount them onto servo arms before fastening servos in place as a trial, in case I have to change something before permanently fastening the servo and servo mounts in place. I used a Hitec Focus three-channel radio with HS-81 servos. This is a perfect radio for most aircraft requiring three functions. Since I was provided with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine and the Classic is actually set up for an .049 or .061 Norvel with mounted fuel tank (the engine-mount screw hole pattern is actually punched into the firewall), I had to modify the front end of the model. I decided to mount the engine on a Dave Brown 1011 engine mount and drill the firewall to match the engine-mount hole pattern. I mounted the .074 and mount assembly onto the firewall using -'/»-inch-long 2-56 socket-head screws and blind nuts. 1 had to cut part of the fuselage side away to clear the .O74's muffler and fuel line to the engine carburetor. To attach the blind nuts to the rear of the firewall, I decided to cut a hatch in the upper half of the fuselage just in front of the windshield. This was also necessary to mount the Sullivan FSS-3 fuel tank. I coated the entire fuselage section behind the firewall and in the tank area with fuelproof dope to prevent any fuel spillage or leakage from attacking the glue joints or saturating the wood. After applying the decals and positioning the radio receiver and battery pack to assure the proper center of gravity, I set the model on my cleaned building table and admired the attractive little cutie. I mentioned that I was supplied with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine. After reading the operating instructions and rereading the warning, I noticed an extra sheet of information from Sig Manufacturing. It suggested adding a few drops of oil to the engine cylinder and letting it set for 24 hours, then turning the propeller approximately 100 revolutions in a clockwise direction to free up the piston in the cylinder since the engine is made to incredibly close tolerances. The information states that after this break-in period, the engine will still seem tight if turned over slowly, but it will feel looser if the propeller is flipped quickly. Recommended fuel for the .074 is 15% nitromethane, and the maximum propeller size is 7 x 4. which is what I used. The engine starts much easier using an electric starter versus hand starting. Norvel markets a starter for small-bore engines, but I did have success using my regular electric starter. After leaning the .074. I learned that it idled down nicely and accelerated smoothly without further adjustment. The muffler on the .074 is efficient in reducing the noise level and gives the engine a pleasant sound. This is one nice little engine! With the engine running so nicely, I couldn't resist flying then and there. I hand launched the Classic into the wind, which was blowing seven to IO mph, and it was a little squirrely at full power. (Remember that the recommended engine size for the Classic is in the .049-.061 range.) However, the model settled down nicely when I cut the power to one-half to two-thirds throttle. In fact. I had the model trimmed so well at approximately one-third power that I could take my hands off the transmitter and actually photograph the Classic in flight. Adding power, I could loop the Classic and actually do barrel rolls with barely any effort. Bringing the .074 down to an idle. I landed the model in the grass after roughly 15 minutes of flying. I have flown the Classic many times since, and I enjoy it more each time. I strongly recommend that the novice power the model with an .049-.061 engine; if that recommendation is followed, he or she should have no problem flying the Classic. The Neofun Classic is an excellent value for the money, as is the Norvel BigMig .074 engine. The quality of the kit is outstanding. If the Norvel BigMig .049 or .061 with tank mount is used to power the model, even a novice should be able to complete the assembly in a few hours without difficulty. Beginners should definitely check this one out!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 51, 52, 54, 56
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 51, 52, 54, 56
IT SEEMS THAT with the popularity of the electric park flyers and other small electric radio-controlled models, the small glow-engine-powered models—especially the Almost Ready to Flys (ARFs)—have been neglected. Norvel. which is now exclusively distributed by Sig Manufacturing Co. of Montezuma. Iowa, has provided several models to correct this situation. Although noted for its excellent line of engines, mostly in the .049- to .061-cubic-inch range. Norvel does offer an engine as large as .25 cubic inch. It also imports those classy 1/2A-size ARFs under the Neofun label, which include the Vision, the Ucan-2, and the Classic, which is the subject of this review. All of these models have a 41-inch wingspan and weigh approximately 24 ounces. For the most part, all are constructed entirely from wood and covered with an iron-on film. When I received the Neofun Classic ARF kit, I had to look in the kit box to verify that there was something in there. The model is very light compared to the larger ARF kits I am used to. Everything was laid out neatly in the box with cardboard separators to keep individual pieces from being damaged. The quality of the wood and the way in which the model was covered were readily apparent. In addition to the main parts of the model, I found the prebent landing gear with wheels installed, along with complete hardware including the steerable nose-gear assembly and pushrod wires and sticks. A huge sheet of colorful decals and a thorough instruction manual containing photographs and drawings completed the kit. After carefully reading the instructions, including all the warnings, I found the manual to be helpful even as far as providing Web sites for the Norvel models and engines in case of problems 'i. with either. This will be especially helpful for the beginner, who most certainly will have questions. A telephone number is also included for technical support. On to the building! The first step was to cement the wing halves together using the plywood dihedral brace as a guide. I always use epoxy for this high-stress area, although the manual states that either cyanoacrylate (CyA) or epoxy is acceptable. It is important that the fit is tight and that the leading edge and trailing edge are in perfect alignment. A piece of adhesive film strip provided was applied to the center-section, completing the wing assembly. After removing the film covering from the area of the stabilizer where it would join the fuselage and a strip from the fuselage where the rudder would be fastened, 1 epoxied the stabilizer and rudder in place, checking for the proper alignment. After the wing dowels were glued into the prepunched holes in the fuselage for the wing-mount rubber bands, essentially all the gluing was done on the main part of the model. The landing- and nose-gear mounts were screwed into the appropriate areas with the hardware provided. Mounting the servos is left up to the individual, but Norvel does provide a suggested setup with photos. Three servos were mounted on two pieces of plywood (provided) perpendicular to the fuselage side. I took this suggestion because it seemed to be the neatest method after I experimented with other configurations. You won't go wrong if you follow the manual's example. The manual even shows how to bend the pushrod wires in several sketches, and it works! I like to bend all pushrods and mount them onto servo arms before fastening servos in place as a trial, in case I have to change something before permanently fastening the servo and servo mounts in place. I used a Hitec Focus three-channel radio with HS-81 servos. This is a perfect radio for most aircraft requiring three functions. Since I was provided with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine and the Classic is actually set up for an .049 or .061 Norvel with mounted fuel tank (the engine-mount screw hole pattern is actually punched into the firewall), I had to modify the front end of the model. I decided to mount the engine on a Dave Brown 1011 engine mount and drill the firewall to match the engine-mount hole pattern. I mounted the .074 and mount assembly onto the firewall using -'/»-inch-long 2-56 socket-head screws and blind nuts. 1 had to cut part of the fuselage side away to clear the .O74's muffler and fuel line to the engine carburetor. To attach the blind nuts to the rear of the firewall, I decided to cut a hatch in the upper half of the fuselage just in front of the windshield. This was also necessary to mount the Sullivan FSS-3 fuel tank. I coated the entire fuselage section behind the firewall and in the tank area with fuelproof dope to prevent any fuel spillage or leakage from attacking the glue joints or saturating the wood. After applying the decals and positioning the radio receiver and battery pack to assure the proper center of gravity, I set the model on my cleaned building table and admired the attractive little cutie. I mentioned that I was supplied with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine. After reading the operating instructions and rereading the warning, I noticed an extra sheet of information from Sig Manufacturing. It suggested adding a few drops of oil to the engine cylinder and letting it set for 24 hours, then turning the propeller approximately 100 revolutions in a clockwise direction to free up the piston in the cylinder since the engine is made to incredibly close tolerances. The information states that after this break-in period, the engine will still seem tight if turned over slowly, but it will feel looser if the propeller is flipped quickly. Recommended fuel for the .074 is 15% nitromethane, and the maximum propeller size is 7 x 4. which is what I used. The engine starts much easier using an electric starter versus hand starting. Norvel markets a starter for small-bore engines, but I did have success using my regular electric starter. After leaning the .074. I learned that it idled down nicely and accelerated smoothly without further adjustment. The muffler on the .074 is efficient in reducing the noise level and gives the engine a pleasant sound. This is one nice little engine! With the engine running so nicely, I couldn't resist flying then and there. I hand launched the Classic into the wind, which was blowing seven to IO mph, and it was a little squirrely at full power. (Remember that the recommended engine size for the Classic is in the .049-.061 range.) However, the model settled down nicely when I cut the power to one-half to two-thirds throttle. In fact. I had the model trimmed so well at approximately one-third power that I could take my hands off the transmitter and actually photograph the Classic in flight. Adding power, I could loop the Classic and actually do barrel rolls with barely any effort. Bringing the .074 down to an idle. I landed the model in the grass after roughly 15 minutes of flying. I have flown the Classic many times since, and I enjoy it more each time. I strongly recommend that the novice power the model with an .049-.061 engine; if that recommendation is followed, he or she should have no problem flying the Classic. The Neofun Classic is an excellent value for the money, as is the Norvel BigMig .074 engine. The quality of the kit is outstanding. If the Norvel BigMig .049 or .061 with tank mount is used to power the model, even a novice should be able to complete the assembly in a few hours without difficulty. Beginners should definitely check this one out!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 51, 52, 54, 56
IT SEEMS THAT with the popularity of the electric park flyers and other small electric radio-controlled models, the small glow-engine-powered models—especially the Almost Ready to Flys (ARFs)—have been neglected. Norvel. which is now exclusively distributed by Sig Manufacturing Co. of Montezuma. Iowa, has provided several models to correct this situation. Although noted for its excellent line of engines, mostly in the .049- to .061-cubic-inch range. Norvel does offer an engine as large as .25 cubic inch. It also imports those classy 1/2A-size ARFs under the Neofun label, which include the Vision, the Ucan-2, and the Classic, which is the subject of this review. All of these models have a 41-inch wingspan and weigh approximately 24 ounces. For the most part, all are constructed entirely from wood and covered with an iron-on film. When I received the Neofun Classic ARF kit, I had to look in the kit box to verify that there was something in there. The model is very light compared to the larger ARF kits I am used to. Everything was laid out neatly in the box with cardboard separators to keep individual pieces from being damaged. The quality of the wood and the way in which the model was covered were readily apparent. In addition to the main parts of the model, I found the prebent landing gear with wheels installed, along with complete hardware including the steerable nose-gear assembly and pushrod wires and sticks. A huge sheet of colorful decals and a thorough instruction manual containing photographs and drawings completed the kit. After carefully reading the instructions, including all the warnings, I found the manual to be helpful even as far as providing Web sites for the Norvel models and engines in case of problems 'i. with either. This will be especially helpful for the beginner, who most certainly will have questions. A telephone number is also included for technical support. On to the building! The first step was to cement the wing halves together using the plywood dihedral brace as a guide. I always use epoxy for this high-stress area, although the manual states that either cyanoacrylate (CyA) or epoxy is acceptable. It is important that the fit is tight and that the leading edge and trailing edge are in perfect alignment. A piece of adhesive film strip provided was applied to the center-section, completing the wing assembly. After removing the film covering from the area of the stabilizer where it would join the fuselage and a strip from the fuselage where the rudder would be fastened, 1 epoxied the stabilizer and rudder in place, checking for the proper alignment. After the wing dowels were glued into the prepunched holes in the fuselage for the wing-mount rubber bands, essentially all the gluing was done on the main part of the model. The landing- and nose-gear mounts were screwed into the appropriate areas with the hardware provided. Mounting the servos is left up to the individual, but Norvel does provide a suggested setup with photos. Three servos were mounted on two pieces of plywood (provided) perpendicular to the fuselage side. I took this suggestion because it seemed to be the neatest method after I experimented with other configurations. You won't go wrong if you follow the manual's example. The manual even shows how to bend the pushrod wires in several sketches, and it works! I like to bend all pushrods and mount them onto servo arms before fastening servos in place as a trial, in case I have to change something before permanently fastening the servo and servo mounts in place. I used a Hitec Focus three-channel radio with HS-81 servos. This is a perfect radio for most aircraft requiring three functions. Since I was provided with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine and the Classic is actually set up for an .049 or .061 Norvel with mounted fuel tank (the engine-mount screw hole pattern is actually punched into the firewall), I had to modify the front end of the model. I decided to mount the engine on a Dave Brown 1011 engine mount and drill the firewall to match the engine-mount hole pattern. I mounted the .074 and mount assembly onto the firewall using -'/»-inch-long 2-56 socket-head screws and blind nuts. 1 had to cut part of the fuselage side away to clear the .O74's muffler and fuel line to the engine carburetor. To attach the blind nuts to the rear of the firewall, I decided to cut a hatch in the upper half of the fuselage just in front of the windshield. This was also necessary to mount the Sullivan FSS-3 fuel tank. I coated the entire fuselage section behind the firewall and in the tank area with fuelproof dope to prevent any fuel spillage or leakage from attacking the glue joints or saturating the wood. After applying the decals and positioning the radio receiver and battery pack to assure the proper center of gravity, I set the model on my cleaned building table and admired the attractive little cutie. I mentioned that I was supplied with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine. After reading the operating instructions and rereading the warning, I noticed an extra sheet of information from Sig Manufacturing. It suggested adding a few drops of oil to the engine cylinder and letting it set for 24 hours, then turning the propeller approximately 100 revolutions in a clockwise direction to free up the piston in the cylinder since the engine is made to incredibly close tolerances. The information states that after this break-in period, the engine will still seem tight if turned over slowly, but it will feel looser if the propeller is flipped quickly. Recommended fuel for the .074 is 15% nitromethane, and the maximum propeller size is 7 x 4. which is what I used. The engine starts much easier using an electric starter versus hand starting. Norvel markets a starter for small-bore engines, but I did have success using my regular electric starter. After leaning the .074. I learned that it idled down nicely and accelerated smoothly without further adjustment. The muffler on the .074 is efficient in reducing the noise level and gives the engine a pleasant sound. This is one nice little engine! With the engine running so nicely, I couldn't resist flying then and there. I hand launched the Classic into the wind, which was blowing seven to IO mph, and it was a little squirrely at full power. (Remember that the recommended engine size for the Classic is in the .049-.061 range.) However, the model settled down nicely when I cut the power to one-half to two-thirds throttle. In fact. I had the model trimmed so well at approximately one-third power that I could take my hands off the transmitter and actually photograph the Classic in flight. Adding power, I could loop the Classic and actually do barrel rolls with barely any effort. Bringing the .074 down to an idle. I landed the model in the grass after roughly 15 minutes of flying. I have flown the Classic many times since, and I enjoy it more each time. I strongly recommend that the novice power the model with an .049-.061 engine; if that recommendation is followed, he or she should have no problem flying the Classic. The Neofun Classic is an excellent value for the money, as is the Norvel BigMig .074 engine. The quality of the kit is outstanding. If the Norvel BigMig .049 or .061 with tank mount is used to power the model, even a novice should be able to complete the assembly in a few hours without difficulty. Beginners should definitely check this one out!
Edition: Model Aviation - 2002/10
Page Numbers: 51, 52, 54, 56
IT SEEMS THAT with the popularity of the electric park flyers and other small electric radio-controlled models, the small glow-engine-powered models—especially the Almost Ready to Flys (ARFs)—have been neglected. Norvel. which is now exclusively distributed by Sig Manufacturing Co. of Montezuma. Iowa, has provided several models to correct this situation. Although noted for its excellent line of engines, mostly in the .049- to .061-cubic-inch range. Norvel does offer an engine as large as .25 cubic inch. It also imports those classy 1/2A-size ARFs under the Neofun label, which include the Vision, the Ucan-2, and the Classic, which is the subject of this review. All of these models have a 41-inch wingspan and weigh approximately 24 ounces. For the most part, all are constructed entirely from wood and covered with an iron-on film. When I received the Neofun Classic ARF kit, I had to look in the kit box to verify that there was something in there. The model is very light compared to the larger ARF kits I am used to. Everything was laid out neatly in the box with cardboard separators to keep individual pieces from being damaged. The quality of the wood and the way in which the model was covered were readily apparent. In addition to the main parts of the model, I found the prebent landing gear with wheels installed, along with complete hardware including the steerable nose-gear assembly and pushrod wires and sticks. A huge sheet of colorful decals and a thorough instruction manual containing photographs and drawings completed the kit. After carefully reading the instructions, including all the warnings, I found the manual to be helpful even as far as providing Web sites for the Norvel models and engines in case of problems 'i. with either. This will be especially helpful for the beginner, who most certainly will have questions. A telephone number is also included for technical support. On to the building! The first step was to cement the wing halves together using the plywood dihedral brace as a guide. I always use epoxy for this high-stress area, although the manual states that either cyanoacrylate (CyA) or epoxy is acceptable. It is important that the fit is tight and that the leading edge and trailing edge are in perfect alignment. A piece of adhesive film strip provided was applied to the center-section, completing the wing assembly. After removing the film covering from the area of the stabilizer where it would join the fuselage and a strip from the fuselage where the rudder would be fastened, 1 epoxied the stabilizer and rudder in place, checking for the proper alignment. After the wing dowels were glued into the prepunched holes in the fuselage for the wing-mount rubber bands, essentially all the gluing was done on the main part of the model. The landing- and nose-gear mounts were screwed into the appropriate areas with the hardware provided. Mounting the servos is left up to the individual, but Norvel does provide a suggested setup with photos. Three servos were mounted on two pieces of plywood (provided) perpendicular to the fuselage side. I took this suggestion because it seemed to be the neatest method after I experimented with other configurations. You won't go wrong if you follow the manual's example. The manual even shows how to bend the pushrod wires in several sketches, and it works! I like to bend all pushrods and mount them onto servo arms before fastening servos in place as a trial, in case I have to change something before permanently fastening the servo and servo mounts in place. I used a Hitec Focus three-channel radio with HS-81 servos. This is a perfect radio for most aircraft requiring three functions. Since I was provided with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine and the Classic is actually set up for an .049 or .061 Norvel with mounted fuel tank (the engine-mount screw hole pattern is actually punched into the firewall), I had to modify the front end of the model. I decided to mount the engine on a Dave Brown 1011 engine mount and drill the firewall to match the engine-mount hole pattern. I mounted the .074 and mount assembly onto the firewall using -'/»-inch-long 2-56 socket-head screws and blind nuts. 1 had to cut part of the fuselage side away to clear the .O74's muffler and fuel line to the engine carburetor. To attach the blind nuts to the rear of the firewall, I decided to cut a hatch in the upper half of the fuselage just in front of the windshield. This was also necessary to mount the Sullivan FSS-3 fuel tank. I coated the entire fuselage section behind the firewall and in the tank area with fuelproof dope to prevent any fuel spillage or leakage from attacking the glue joints or saturating the wood. After applying the decals and positioning the radio receiver and battery pack to assure the proper center of gravity, I set the model on my cleaned building table and admired the attractive little cutie. I mentioned that I was supplied with a Norvel BigMig Sport .074 R/C Revlite™ engine. After reading the operating instructions and rereading the warning, I noticed an extra sheet of information from Sig Manufacturing. It suggested adding a few drops of oil to the engine cylinder and letting it set for 24 hours, then turning the propeller approximately 100 revolutions in a clockwise direction to free up the piston in the cylinder since the engine is made to incredibly close tolerances. The information states that after this break-in period, the engine will still seem tight if turned over slowly, but it will feel looser if the propeller is flipped quickly. Recommended fuel for the .074 is 15% nitromethane, and the maximum propeller size is 7 x 4. which is what I used. The engine starts much easier using an electric starter versus hand starting. Norvel markets a starter for small-bore engines, but I did have success using my regular electric starter. After leaning the .074. I learned that it idled down nicely and accelerated smoothly without further adjustment. The muffler on the .074 is efficient in reducing the noise level and gives the engine a pleasant sound. This is one nice little engine! With the engine running so nicely, I couldn't resist flying then and there. I hand launched the Classic into the wind, which was blowing seven to IO mph, and it was a little squirrely at full power. (Remember that the recommended engine size for the Classic is in the .049-.061 range.) However, the model settled down nicely when I cut the power to one-half to two-thirds throttle. In fact. I had the model trimmed so well at approximately one-third power that I could take my hands off the transmitter and actually photograph the Classic in flight. Adding power, I could loop the Classic and actually do barrel rolls with barely any effort. Bringing the .074 down to an idle. I landed the model in the grass after roughly 15 minutes of flying. I have flown the Classic many times since, and I enjoy it more each time. I strongly recommend that the novice power the model with an .049-.061 engine; if that recommendation is followed, he or she should have no problem flying the Classic. The Neofun Classic is an excellent value for the money, as is the Norvel BigMig .074 engine. The quality of the kit is outstanding. If the Norvel BigMig .049 or .061 with tank mount is used to power the model, even a novice should be able to complete the assembly in a few hours without difficulty. Beginners should definitely check this one out!
