HAVE YOU EVER wanted to remove your
canopy quickly and without having to take out at
least four screws? I’ve always admired how
custom-car restoration technicians could add that
sleek feature that allows all the door handles to be
replaced with hidden latch mechanisms. Our
models can have that clean look too.
In RC Aerobatics, we’re always looking for
ways to keep our airplanes’ molded fuselages
beautiful and void of screws that deface the surface.
The following step-by-step process is both quick
and clean. The heart of this system is the Magic
Box from MK. This clever device is available from
all suppliers that handle MK products.
The pictures describe the procedure best, so
follow along as the captions guide you through the
uncomplicated method of adding a little bling to
your trim aerobat. I see no reason why this process
couldn’t be adapted to any sport or Scale model
with removable hatches. MA 7
Right: Make a 7/32-
i n c h - d i a m e t e r
hole cutter with a
sharpened piece
of brass tubing
skived with a #11
blade.
8
9
10
11
12
Use a drafting template to center the cutter on the block,
and cut through the block by chucking the cutter in a drill
press.
Right: Cut a 1/2-inch piece
of medium fuel tubing
and insert into each
block, which will act as a
shock absorber. Glue a
piece of 1/16 plywood to
the bottom to retain the
fuel tubing.
Left: Cut 5/8-inch lengths of
music wire, and place one in
all the blocks so they seat
against the plywood floor. The
fuel tubing will accommodate
slight misalignment.
Left: Glue a
block with pin
installed into
each hole from
the bottom.
Right: Extend the hole
centerline mark to and around
the fuselage edge.
13
14
15
17
18
Left: Position the canopy
on the fuselage, and
transfer the lines drawn in
the previous step.
Right: Extend the lines drawn in the
previous step across the canopy’s
flanges. Measure in from the edge
of the canopy the same amount
that the pins are located in the
fuselage, and drill a hole at each of
the four locations.
Left: Use a leather
punch to make
holes in square
pieces of waxedpaper
shields.
Use small pieces
of masking tape
as a dam.
16
Right: Carefully place a
mixture of epoxy and
microballoons inside the
flange of the canopy at each
hole location. Do only one
side at a time.
Right: Make a fuselage
crossmember from
two pieces of 1/8 x 1/2
medium-hard balsa.
Attach the Magic
Box to the center of
the crossmember
after drilling a 1/4-inch
clearance hole in the
center and two 3/32-
inch mounting holes.
48 MODEL AVIATION
Left: The Magic Box-andcrossmember
assembly
shown from the bottom
side. The second piece of 1/8
balsa is used as a stiffener.
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
28
27
Right: Glue the
latch assembly
to the bottom
of the fuselage
flanges. Place a
90° bend in the
end of a piece of
1/8-inch-diameter
a l u m i n u m
tubing. Mount
this tubing to the
fuselage using a
piece of hard
balsa drilled to
accept the tubing.
Left: Attach the
bottom of the tubing
to the fuselage with
another balsa block
after drilling the
fuselage to accept
the tubing. Thread a
piece of coated cable
through the tubing
and attach it to the
actuating arm of the
Magic Box now.
Right: Mark the position of
the crossmember on the
fuselage. Place the canopy
in position on the fuselage,
and transfer the marks to
the canopy.
Right: Glue a
piece of 1/4 square
m e d i u m - h a r d
balsa to the
canopy flanges.
Drill a hole in the
center for the
Magic Box pin.
Add a piece of 1/4
square balsa to
provide support
to the pin.
Right: Put a 1/8
plywood or phenolic
tab on each end of
the canopy; they
should project at
least 1/8 inch.
Left: Make two
slotted backers
from 1/8 plywood,
and glue these to
the inside of the
fuselage at the
front and back.
These tabs and
slots eliminate side
movement.
Right: Reinforce the
tab and pin interior
mounting locations
with fiberglass and/or
microballoon mixtures.
Left: Cut out the 1/8 lightplywood
backers at the
front and rear to accept the
canopy antishift tabs.
Right: Cut the tubing flush
with the bottom of the
fuselage. Finish off the pull
cord with a loop and
ferrule at the bottom of
the fuselage.
The canopy on the author’s Integral is
held in place with the MK Magic Box,
allowing quick removal and no ugly
external screws.
September 2008 49
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/09
Page Numbers: 47,48,49
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/09
Page Numbers: 47,48,49
HAVE YOU EVER wanted to remove your
canopy quickly and without having to take out at
least four screws? I’ve always admired how
custom-car restoration technicians could add that
sleek feature that allows all the door handles to be
replaced with hidden latch mechanisms. Our
models can have that clean look too.
In RC Aerobatics, we’re always looking for
ways to keep our airplanes’ molded fuselages
beautiful and void of screws that deface the surface.
The following step-by-step process is both quick
and clean. The heart of this system is the Magic
Box from MK. This clever device is available from
all suppliers that handle MK products.
The pictures describe the procedure best, so
follow along as the captions guide you through the
uncomplicated method of adding a little bling to
your trim aerobat. I see no reason why this process
couldn’t be adapted to any sport or Scale model
with removable hatches. MA 7
Right: Make a 7/32-
i n c h - d i a m e t e r
hole cutter with a
sharpened piece
of brass tubing
skived with a #11
blade.
8
9
10
11
12
Use a drafting template to center the cutter on the block,
and cut through the block by chucking the cutter in a drill
press.
Right: Cut a 1/2-inch piece
of medium fuel tubing
and insert into each
block, which will act as a
shock absorber. Glue a
piece of 1/16 plywood to
the bottom to retain the
fuel tubing.
Left: Cut 5/8-inch lengths of
music wire, and place one in
all the blocks so they seat
against the plywood floor. The
fuel tubing will accommodate
slight misalignment.
Left: Glue a
block with pin
installed into
each hole from
the bottom.
Right: Extend the hole
centerline mark to and around
the fuselage edge.
13
14
15
17
18
Left: Position the canopy
on the fuselage, and
transfer the lines drawn in
the previous step.
Right: Extend the lines drawn in the
previous step across the canopy’s
flanges. Measure in from the edge
of the canopy the same amount
that the pins are located in the
fuselage, and drill a hole at each of
the four locations.
Left: Use a leather
punch to make
holes in square
pieces of waxedpaper
shields.
Use small pieces
of masking tape
as a dam.
16
Right: Carefully place a
mixture of epoxy and
microballoons inside the
flange of the canopy at each
hole location. Do only one
side at a time.
Right: Make a fuselage
crossmember from
two pieces of 1/8 x 1/2
medium-hard balsa.
Attach the Magic
Box to the center of
the crossmember
after drilling a 1/4-inch
clearance hole in the
center and two 3/32-
inch mounting holes.
48 MODEL AVIATION
Left: The Magic Box-andcrossmember
assembly
shown from the bottom
side. The second piece of 1/8
balsa is used as a stiffener.
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
28
27
Right: Glue the
latch assembly
to the bottom
of the fuselage
flanges. Place a
90° bend in the
end of a piece of
1/8-inch-diameter
a l u m i n u m
tubing. Mount
this tubing to the
fuselage using a
piece of hard
balsa drilled to
accept the tubing.
Left: Attach the
bottom of the tubing
to the fuselage with
another balsa block
after drilling the
fuselage to accept
the tubing. Thread a
piece of coated cable
through the tubing
and attach it to the
actuating arm of the
Magic Box now.
Right: Mark the position of
the crossmember on the
fuselage. Place the canopy
in position on the fuselage,
and transfer the marks to
the canopy.
Right: Glue a
piece of 1/4 square
m e d i u m - h a r d
balsa to the
canopy flanges.
Drill a hole in the
center for the
Magic Box pin.
Add a piece of 1/4
square balsa to
provide support
to the pin.
Right: Put a 1/8
plywood or phenolic
tab on each end of
the canopy; they
should project at
least 1/8 inch.
Left: Make two
slotted backers
from 1/8 plywood,
and glue these to
the inside of the
fuselage at the
front and back.
These tabs and
slots eliminate side
movement.
Right: Reinforce the
tab and pin interior
mounting locations
with fiberglass and/or
microballoon mixtures.
Left: Cut out the 1/8 lightplywood
backers at the
front and rear to accept the
canopy antishift tabs.
Right: Cut the tubing flush
with the bottom of the
fuselage. Finish off the pull
cord with a loop and
ferrule at the bottom of
the fuselage.
The canopy on the author’s Integral is
held in place with the MK Magic Box,
allowing quick removal and no ugly
external screws.
September 2008 49
Edition: Model Aviation - 2008/09
Page Numbers: 47,48,49
HAVE YOU EVER wanted to remove your
canopy quickly and without having to take out at
least four screws? I’ve always admired how
custom-car restoration technicians could add that
sleek feature that allows all the door handles to be
replaced with hidden latch mechanisms. Our
models can have that clean look too.
In RC Aerobatics, we’re always looking for
ways to keep our airplanes’ molded fuselages
beautiful and void of screws that deface the surface.
The following step-by-step process is both quick
and clean. The heart of this system is the Magic
Box from MK. This clever device is available from
all suppliers that handle MK products.
The pictures describe the procedure best, so
follow along as the captions guide you through the
uncomplicated method of adding a little bling to
your trim aerobat. I see no reason why this process
couldn’t be adapted to any sport or Scale model
with removable hatches. MA 7
Right: Make a 7/32-
i n c h - d i a m e t e r
hole cutter with a
sharpened piece
of brass tubing
skived with a #11
blade.
8
9
10
11
12
Use a drafting template to center the cutter on the block,
and cut through the block by chucking the cutter in a drill
press.
Right: Cut a 1/2-inch piece
of medium fuel tubing
and insert into each
block, which will act as a
shock absorber. Glue a
piece of 1/16 plywood to
the bottom to retain the
fuel tubing.
Left: Cut 5/8-inch lengths of
music wire, and place one in
all the blocks so they seat
against the plywood floor. The
fuel tubing will accommodate
slight misalignment.
Left: Glue a
block with pin
installed into
each hole from
the bottom.
Right: Extend the hole
centerline mark to and around
the fuselage edge.
13
14
15
17
18
Left: Position the canopy
on the fuselage, and
transfer the lines drawn in
the previous step.
Right: Extend the lines drawn in the
previous step across the canopy’s
flanges. Measure in from the edge
of the canopy the same amount
that the pins are located in the
fuselage, and drill a hole at each of
the four locations.
Left: Use a leather
punch to make
holes in square
pieces of waxedpaper
shields.
Use small pieces
of masking tape
as a dam.
16
Right: Carefully place a
mixture of epoxy and
microballoons inside the
flange of the canopy at each
hole location. Do only one
side at a time.
Right: Make a fuselage
crossmember from
two pieces of 1/8 x 1/2
medium-hard balsa.
Attach the Magic
Box to the center of
the crossmember
after drilling a 1/4-inch
clearance hole in the
center and two 3/32-
inch mounting holes.
48 MODEL AVIATION
Left: The Magic Box-andcrossmember
assembly
shown from the bottom
side. The second piece of 1/8
balsa is used as a stiffener.
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
28
27
Right: Glue the
latch assembly
to the bottom
of the fuselage
flanges. Place a
90° bend in the
end of a piece of
1/8-inch-diameter
a l u m i n u m
tubing. Mount
this tubing to the
fuselage using a
piece of hard
balsa drilled to
accept the tubing.
Left: Attach the
bottom of the tubing
to the fuselage with
another balsa block
after drilling the
fuselage to accept
the tubing. Thread a
piece of coated cable
through the tubing
and attach it to the
actuating arm of the
Magic Box now.
Right: Mark the position of
the crossmember on the
fuselage. Place the canopy
in position on the fuselage,
and transfer the marks to
the canopy.
Right: Glue a
piece of 1/4 square
m e d i u m - h a r d
balsa to the
canopy flanges.
Drill a hole in the
center for the
Magic Box pin.
Add a piece of 1/4
square balsa to
provide support
to the pin.
Right: Put a 1/8
plywood or phenolic
tab on each end of
the canopy; they
should project at
least 1/8 inch.
Left: Make two
slotted backers
from 1/8 plywood,
and glue these to
the inside of the
fuselage at the
front and back.
These tabs and
slots eliminate side
movement.
Right: Reinforce the
tab and pin interior
mounting locations
with fiberglass and/or
microballoon mixtures.
Left: Cut out the 1/8 lightplywood
backers at the
front and rear to accept the
canopy antishift tabs.
Right: Cut the tubing flush
with the bottom of the
fuselage. Finish off the pull
cord with a loop and
ferrule at the bottom of
the fuselage.
The canopy on the author’s Integral is
held in place with the MK Magic Box,
allowing quick removal and no ugly
external screws.
September 2008 49
