An RC Giants spy reports from Balsa USA
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Giants Sal Calvagna
Also included in this column:
• Taut-fabric covering secret
• Servo requirement tips
The author’s Balsa USA 1/4-scale Fokker D.VII has a bomb drop and smoke system. All
servos in this model are standard size and torque, operating on 4.8 volts.
You can use an inexpensive foam brush to
apply this Clear Tautening Nitrate dope
from Randolph Aircraft Products.
The vertical stabilizer and rudder from the
author’s 1/4-scale Polikarpov I-16 are fabric
covered, as is the empennage.
Sal’s spy at Balsa USA snapped this photo
of a small part of its latest project. “Intel”
reports that it is 1/4 scale.
IT’S NICE to have many friends in the hobby
industry. I hear from each of them
occasionally about the latest and greatest the
industry has to offer. I recently received some
“intel” about an ongoing project at Balsa USA.
I was given a photo and bits of information
from a “mole” within the organization about
the company’s next model offering.
From what I can determine by studying the
accompanying photo, the wingspan is going to
be approximately 120 inches. The report is
that it will definitely be from the World War I
time period and be 1/4 scale. The last bit of
information I received before communication
with the mole was severed was that the fullscale
aircraft was built under license here in
the US during The Great War.
I need to know what aircraft this might be.
Can any of you readers help?
After building and owning several models of
“stringbags”—frame-built and cloth-covered
aircraft—I noticed that the covering material
would wrinkle after a period of time. It’s no
big deal and does not affect the flight
performance, but it doesn’t make a nice
presentation, especially if you’re at a modeling
event.
My most recent project is a World War IIera
fighter that has the vertical-fin and
horizontal-stabilizer surfaces completely
covered with fabric, and I want to make sure
that they stay wrinkle free. Sure, a hot iron or
carefully applied heat gun would take the
wrinkles out for a while, but they always
seemed to come back.
It could be that I don’t have the covering
applied correctly. Maybe I am using too
much heat in the first place.
I was looking for something that would
help keep the covering taut, and I found it.
No, it’s not new. The answer has been with
modelers for as long as models have been
flying. It’s dope. No, I’m not referring to
what my wife calls me on occasion. I mean
butyrate and nitrate dope.
Modelers have been using the two
substances to adhere and tighten tissue to
balsa framework long before I was a glint in
my father’s eye. Both perform a similar
function; however, butyrate is less
flammable and is fuelproof.
How do I know? There’s a lesson found
February 2009 117
02sig4.QXD 12/22/08 12:35 PM Page 117
in reading about the Hindenburg. It wasn’t a saboteur that
brought the airship down in flames; it was a little spark and
thousands of gallons of nitrate dope used to paint the airship. I
don’t know any modeler who is building a scale replica of a rigid
dirigible, so I wouldn’t worry about using a little nitrate dope on
your aircraft.
To wrinkle-proof your model, cover the framework as you
have in the past, using your favorite fabric covering material.
Give your model a couple light coats of tautening dope.
Please be aware that you can purchase dope in a nontautening
version, so that no matter how many coats you apply, it will not
tighten the material. Dope dries rapidly, so you can apply two
light coats quickly.
I like to use an inexpensive foam brush to apply dope. They
don’t last long, because the dope softens the foam, but for
roughly 50¢ each, I use them once and throw them away. You
can dilute the dope using appropriate thinners, but I found that it
applies fine using the foam brush.
Remember, the more dope you apply,
the more it will shrink the fabric. If you
apply too much, you can warp wings and
distort stringers. The goal is to keep your
covering material taut and wrinkle free—
not to make it drum tight. A couple of light
coats will do the trick.
Once you’re done with applying the dope,
you can finish your model with your favorite
paint.
You can apply butyrate over nitrate, but
never nitrate on top of butyrate. The two
products can be found for sale from Sig
Manufacturing.
If you apply dope to your model in your
shop or basement, make sure you have
adequate ventilation. In addition to the safety
and health risks involved, this stuff can stink
up your house in no time, and you’ll find your
better half using words to describe you, such
as “dope.”
Many RC Giant aircraft kits and/or plans
come with detailed information about how to
construct the model, but some do not include
information about what size servos you need
to fly it safely and successfully. I thought I
would chime in with what size servos I use in
my models.
The opinions stated here are not based on
scientific data and testing. These are my
thoughts supported by 25 years of building
and flying larger models.
Many radio systems are sold as a complete
package, meaning that they include a
transmitter, receiver, batteries, slow charger,
and switch harness. More often than not, the
receiver battery is usually in the 600 mAh to
800 mAh range, and the servos are of
standard size and torque. This standard radio
system is ideally suited for use in 40- to 60-
size models.
While the transmitter and receiver could
be used in larger airplanes, the servos and
receiver battery may not be appropriate. What
size servos do you need to fly larger models?
This simple question has varied answers.
First it depends on what type and what size
aircraft you intend to fly. A 1/4-scale Cub with
a 108-inch wingspan can use all standard-size
servos.
Understand that a standard servo for our
application is ball-bearing supported, a
standard size, and has an output of
approximately 45 ounce-inch of torque at 4.8
volts. Many manufacturers offer this type of
servo. Hitec has an HS-425, Futaba has its
S3004, and JR offers the S537. These are all
excellent, standard, ball-bearing-supported
units. In the 1/4-scale Cub, one servo would be
used for each aileron, rudder, elevator half,
and throttle—a total of six.
Other models in which a standard-size
servo works well are any of the 1/4-scale
World War I aircraft. These are slower, use
less horsepower, and can safely operate with
standard servos.
The accompanying photo shows my
Zenoah G-38-powered, 1/4-scale Fokker
D.VII. It contains all Hitec HS-425 servos.
There are eight servos in this model: two for
the ailerons, two for the elevators, one for the
rudder, one for the throttle, one for the B&B
smoke system, and one for the bomb drop.
I fly my D.VII on 4.8 volts (a four-cell
pack). I have performed every maneuver it is
capable of and then some. Some of the mock
World War I dogfights in which I have
participated have really put a strain on the
airframe, and I am happy to report that the
servos performed flawlessly.
Any model in this weight and size class
would operate fine with standard servos. Can
you use more expensive high-torque or digital
servos? Of course, but do you really need
them? Certainly not.
As you move on to larger, heavier World
120 MODEL AVIATION
War II-type models, high-torque and/or giantscale
servos are the way to go. On my
aerobatic 1/4-scale Rearwin Speedster, I use
100-ounce metal-gear servos on the ailerons,
rudder, and each elevator half. Metal gears can
take more punishment than nylon gears, but
they are noisy and tend to wear quicker. Larger
aerobatic models require even more torque.
The accompanying photo shows Effie
Cassar of Sound Beach, New York, and his
40% Carden Extra 330. A Desert Aircraft DA-
150 powers the model, and each movable
surface requires two high-torque digital servos.
Digital servos have immense holding power
and work well when you have an aircraft this
size with large, movable surfaces. The 3-D
maneuvers that this aircraft is capable of put
quite a strain on the movable surfaces and the
servos that drive them.
One of the downsides to using the more
powerful digital servos is that they need more
current to operate. A model with a complement
of digital servos needs to carry a receiver
battery or batteries that can deliver more
current.
In Effie’s model, he uses JR DS8411
servos. They can deliver 188 ounce-inch of
torque on 6 volts. Many of the aircraft in this
class typically use the newer JR DS8611
servos that deliver 320 ounces of torque on 6
volts.
No matter what Giant model you fly,
always use a heavy-duty switch and heavyduty
extensions. I know that there are as many
servo combinations/scenarios as there are
aircraft types. If you have a specific question,
drop me a line and I will be happy to answer to
the best of my ability.
I found a wonderful servo chart that
contains a comprehensive listing of servos by
manufacturer. See the source listing.
That’s all for this month. Send me photos of
your current project so I can share them with
our readers. MA
Sources:
Balsa USA
(800) 225-7287
www.balsausa.com
Sig Manufacturing
(800) 247-5008
www.sigmfg.com
Randolph Aircraft Products
(800) 362-3490
www.randolphaircraft.com
Servo listing:
www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servochart.html
www.pspec.com
NELSON Engines and Accessories.
ULTRATHRUST Muffl ers.
4-Stroke Muffl ers, Elbows, & Twisters.
Pylon Racing and Performance Parts.
02sig4.QXD 12/22/08 12:58 PM Page 120
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/02
Page Numbers: 117,118,120
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/02
Page Numbers: 117,118,120
An RC Giants spy reports from Balsa USA
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Giants Sal Calvagna
Also included in this column:
• Taut-fabric covering secret
• Servo requirement tips
The author’s Balsa USA 1/4-scale Fokker D.VII has a bomb drop and smoke system. All
servos in this model are standard size and torque, operating on 4.8 volts.
You can use an inexpensive foam brush to
apply this Clear Tautening Nitrate dope
from Randolph Aircraft Products.
The vertical stabilizer and rudder from the
author’s 1/4-scale Polikarpov I-16 are fabric
covered, as is the empennage.
Sal’s spy at Balsa USA snapped this photo
of a small part of its latest project. “Intel”
reports that it is 1/4 scale.
IT’S NICE to have many friends in the hobby
industry. I hear from each of them
occasionally about the latest and greatest the
industry has to offer. I recently received some
“intel” about an ongoing project at Balsa USA.
I was given a photo and bits of information
from a “mole” within the organization about
the company’s next model offering.
From what I can determine by studying the
accompanying photo, the wingspan is going to
be approximately 120 inches. The report is
that it will definitely be from the World War I
time period and be 1/4 scale. The last bit of
information I received before communication
with the mole was severed was that the fullscale
aircraft was built under license here in
the US during The Great War.
I need to know what aircraft this might be.
Can any of you readers help?
After building and owning several models of
“stringbags”—frame-built and cloth-covered
aircraft—I noticed that the covering material
would wrinkle after a period of time. It’s no
big deal and does not affect the flight
performance, but it doesn’t make a nice
presentation, especially if you’re at a modeling
event.
My most recent project is a World War IIera
fighter that has the vertical-fin and
horizontal-stabilizer surfaces completely
covered with fabric, and I want to make sure
that they stay wrinkle free. Sure, a hot iron or
carefully applied heat gun would take the
wrinkles out for a while, but they always
seemed to come back.
It could be that I don’t have the covering
applied correctly. Maybe I am using too
much heat in the first place.
I was looking for something that would
help keep the covering taut, and I found it.
No, it’s not new. The answer has been with
modelers for as long as models have been
flying. It’s dope. No, I’m not referring to
what my wife calls me on occasion. I mean
butyrate and nitrate dope.
Modelers have been using the two
substances to adhere and tighten tissue to
balsa framework long before I was a glint in
my father’s eye. Both perform a similar
function; however, butyrate is less
flammable and is fuelproof.
How do I know? There’s a lesson found
February 2009 117
02sig4.QXD 12/22/08 12:35 PM Page 117
in reading about the Hindenburg. It wasn’t a saboteur that
brought the airship down in flames; it was a little spark and
thousands of gallons of nitrate dope used to paint the airship. I
don’t know any modeler who is building a scale replica of a rigid
dirigible, so I wouldn’t worry about using a little nitrate dope on
your aircraft.
To wrinkle-proof your model, cover the framework as you
have in the past, using your favorite fabric covering material.
Give your model a couple light coats of tautening dope.
Please be aware that you can purchase dope in a nontautening
version, so that no matter how many coats you apply, it will not
tighten the material. Dope dries rapidly, so you can apply two
light coats quickly.
I like to use an inexpensive foam brush to apply dope. They
don’t last long, because the dope softens the foam, but for
roughly 50¢ each, I use them once and throw them away. You
can dilute the dope using appropriate thinners, but I found that it
applies fine using the foam brush.
Remember, the more dope you apply,
the more it will shrink the fabric. If you
apply too much, you can warp wings and
distort stringers. The goal is to keep your
covering material taut and wrinkle free—
not to make it drum tight. A couple of light
coats will do the trick.
Once you’re done with applying the dope,
you can finish your model with your favorite
paint.
You can apply butyrate over nitrate, but
never nitrate on top of butyrate. The two
products can be found for sale from Sig
Manufacturing.
If you apply dope to your model in your
shop or basement, make sure you have
adequate ventilation. In addition to the safety
and health risks involved, this stuff can stink
up your house in no time, and you’ll find your
better half using words to describe you, such
as “dope.”
Many RC Giant aircraft kits and/or plans
come with detailed information about how to
construct the model, but some do not include
information about what size servos you need
to fly it safely and successfully. I thought I
would chime in with what size servos I use in
my models.
The opinions stated here are not based on
scientific data and testing. These are my
thoughts supported by 25 years of building
and flying larger models.
Many radio systems are sold as a complete
package, meaning that they include a
transmitter, receiver, batteries, slow charger,
and switch harness. More often than not, the
receiver battery is usually in the 600 mAh to
800 mAh range, and the servos are of
standard size and torque. This standard radio
system is ideally suited for use in 40- to 60-
size models.
While the transmitter and receiver could
be used in larger airplanes, the servos and
receiver battery may not be appropriate. What
size servos do you need to fly larger models?
This simple question has varied answers.
First it depends on what type and what size
aircraft you intend to fly. A 1/4-scale Cub with
a 108-inch wingspan can use all standard-size
servos.
Understand that a standard servo for our
application is ball-bearing supported, a
standard size, and has an output of
approximately 45 ounce-inch of torque at 4.8
volts. Many manufacturers offer this type of
servo. Hitec has an HS-425, Futaba has its
S3004, and JR offers the S537. These are all
excellent, standard, ball-bearing-supported
units. In the 1/4-scale Cub, one servo would be
used for each aileron, rudder, elevator half,
and throttle—a total of six.
Other models in which a standard-size
servo works well are any of the 1/4-scale
World War I aircraft. These are slower, use
less horsepower, and can safely operate with
standard servos.
The accompanying photo shows my
Zenoah G-38-powered, 1/4-scale Fokker
D.VII. It contains all Hitec HS-425 servos.
There are eight servos in this model: two for
the ailerons, two for the elevators, one for the
rudder, one for the throttle, one for the B&B
smoke system, and one for the bomb drop.
I fly my D.VII on 4.8 volts (a four-cell
pack). I have performed every maneuver it is
capable of and then some. Some of the mock
World War I dogfights in which I have
participated have really put a strain on the
airframe, and I am happy to report that the
servos performed flawlessly.
Any model in this weight and size class
would operate fine with standard servos. Can
you use more expensive high-torque or digital
servos? Of course, but do you really need
them? Certainly not.
As you move on to larger, heavier World
120 MODEL AVIATION
War II-type models, high-torque and/or giantscale
servos are the way to go. On my
aerobatic 1/4-scale Rearwin Speedster, I use
100-ounce metal-gear servos on the ailerons,
rudder, and each elevator half. Metal gears can
take more punishment than nylon gears, but
they are noisy and tend to wear quicker. Larger
aerobatic models require even more torque.
The accompanying photo shows Effie
Cassar of Sound Beach, New York, and his
40% Carden Extra 330. A Desert Aircraft DA-
150 powers the model, and each movable
surface requires two high-torque digital servos.
Digital servos have immense holding power
and work well when you have an aircraft this
size with large, movable surfaces. The 3-D
maneuvers that this aircraft is capable of put
quite a strain on the movable surfaces and the
servos that drive them.
One of the downsides to using the more
powerful digital servos is that they need more
current to operate. A model with a complement
of digital servos needs to carry a receiver
battery or batteries that can deliver more
current.
In Effie’s model, he uses JR DS8411
servos. They can deliver 188 ounce-inch of
torque on 6 volts. Many of the aircraft in this
class typically use the newer JR DS8611
servos that deliver 320 ounces of torque on 6
volts.
No matter what Giant model you fly,
always use a heavy-duty switch and heavyduty
extensions. I know that there are as many
servo combinations/scenarios as there are
aircraft types. If you have a specific question,
drop me a line and I will be happy to answer to
the best of my ability.
I found a wonderful servo chart that
contains a comprehensive listing of servos by
manufacturer. See the source listing.
That’s all for this month. Send me photos of
your current project so I can share them with
our readers. MA
Sources:
Balsa USA
(800) 225-7287
www.balsausa.com
Sig Manufacturing
(800) 247-5008
www.sigmfg.com
Randolph Aircraft Products
(800) 362-3490
www.randolphaircraft.com
Servo listing:
www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servochart.html
www.pspec.com
NELSON Engines and Accessories.
ULTRATHRUST Muffl ers.
4-Stroke Muffl ers, Elbows, & Twisters.
Pylon Racing and Performance Parts.
02sig4.QXD 12/22/08 12:58 PM Page 120
Edition: Model Aviation - 2009/02
Page Numbers: 117,118,120
An RC Giants spy reports from Balsa USA
[[email protected]]
Radio Control Giants Sal Calvagna
Also included in this column:
• Taut-fabric covering secret
• Servo requirement tips
The author’s Balsa USA 1/4-scale Fokker D.VII has a bomb drop and smoke system. All
servos in this model are standard size and torque, operating on 4.8 volts.
You can use an inexpensive foam brush to
apply this Clear Tautening Nitrate dope
from Randolph Aircraft Products.
The vertical stabilizer and rudder from the
author’s 1/4-scale Polikarpov I-16 are fabric
covered, as is the empennage.
Sal’s spy at Balsa USA snapped this photo
of a small part of its latest project. “Intel”
reports that it is 1/4 scale.
IT’S NICE to have many friends in the hobby
industry. I hear from each of them
occasionally about the latest and greatest the
industry has to offer. I recently received some
“intel” about an ongoing project at Balsa USA.
I was given a photo and bits of information
from a “mole” within the organization about
the company’s next model offering.
From what I can determine by studying the
accompanying photo, the wingspan is going to
be approximately 120 inches. The report is
that it will definitely be from the World War I
time period and be 1/4 scale. The last bit of
information I received before communication
with the mole was severed was that the fullscale
aircraft was built under license here in
the US during The Great War.
I need to know what aircraft this might be.
Can any of you readers help?
After building and owning several models of
“stringbags”—frame-built and cloth-covered
aircraft—I noticed that the covering material
would wrinkle after a period of time. It’s no
big deal and does not affect the flight
performance, but it doesn’t make a nice
presentation, especially if you’re at a modeling
event.
My most recent project is a World War IIera
fighter that has the vertical-fin and
horizontal-stabilizer surfaces completely
covered with fabric, and I want to make sure
that they stay wrinkle free. Sure, a hot iron or
carefully applied heat gun would take the
wrinkles out for a while, but they always
seemed to come back.
It could be that I don’t have the covering
applied correctly. Maybe I am using too
much heat in the first place.
I was looking for something that would
help keep the covering taut, and I found it.
No, it’s not new. The answer has been with
modelers for as long as models have been
flying. It’s dope. No, I’m not referring to
what my wife calls me on occasion. I mean
butyrate and nitrate dope.
Modelers have been using the two
substances to adhere and tighten tissue to
balsa framework long before I was a glint in
my father’s eye. Both perform a similar
function; however, butyrate is less
flammable and is fuelproof.
How do I know? There’s a lesson found
February 2009 117
02sig4.QXD 12/22/08 12:35 PM Page 117
in reading about the Hindenburg. It wasn’t a saboteur that
brought the airship down in flames; it was a little spark and
thousands of gallons of nitrate dope used to paint the airship. I
don’t know any modeler who is building a scale replica of a rigid
dirigible, so I wouldn’t worry about using a little nitrate dope on
your aircraft.
To wrinkle-proof your model, cover the framework as you
have in the past, using your favorite fabric covering material.
Give your model a couple light coats of tautening dope.
Please be aware that you can purchase dope in a nontautening
version, so that no matter how many coats you apply, it will not
tighten the material. Dope dries rapidly, so you can apply two
light coats quickly.
I like to use an inexpensive foam brush to apply dope. They
don’t last long, because the dope softens the foam, but for
roughly 50¢ each, I use them once and throw them away. You
can dilute the dope using appropriate thinners, but I found that it
applies fine using the foam brush.
Remember, the more dope you apply,
the more it will shrink the fabric. If you
apply too much, you can warp wings and
distort stringers. The goal is to keep your
covering material taut and wrinkle free—
not to make it drum tight. A couple of light
coats will do the trick.
Once you’re done with applying the dope,
you can finish your model with your favorite
paint.
You can apply butyrate over nitrate, but
never nitrate on top of butyrate. The two
products can be found for sale from Sig
Manufacturing.
If you apply dope to your model in your
shop or basement, make sure you have
adequate ventilation. In addition to the safety
and health risks involved, this stuff can stink
up your house in no time, and you’ll find your
better half using words to describe you, such
as “dope.”
Many RC Giant aircraft kits and/or plans
come with detailed information about how to
construct the model, but some do not include
information about what size servos you need
to fly it safely and successfully. I thought I
would chime in with what size servos I use in
my models.
The opinions stated here are not based on
scientific data and testing. These are my
thoughts supported by 25 years of building
and flying larger models.
Many radio systems are sold as a complete
package, meaning that they include a
transmitter, receiver, batteries, slow charger,
and switch harness. More often than not, the
receiver battery is usually in the 600 mAh to
800 mAh range, and the servos are of
standard size and torque. This standard radio
system is ideally suited for use in 40- to 60-
size models.
While the transmitter and receiver could
be used in larger airplanes, the servos and
receiver battery may not be appropriate. What
size servos do you need to fly larger models?
This simple question has varied answers.
First it depends on what type and what size
aircraft you intend to fly. A 1/4-scale Cub with
a 108-inch wingspan can use all standard-size
servos.
Understand that a standard servo for our
application is ball-bearing supported, a
standard size, and has an output of
approximately 45 ounce-inch of torque at 4.8
volts. Many manufacturers offer this type of
servo. Hitec has an HS-425, Futaba has its
S3004, and JR offers the S537. These are all
excellent, standard, ball-bearing-supported
units. In the 1/4-scale Cub, one servo would be
used for each aileron, rudder, elevator half,
and throttle—a total of six.
Other models in which a standard-size
servo works well are any of the 1/4-scale
World War I aircraft. These are slower, use
less horsepower, and can safely operate with
standard servos.
The accompanying photo shows my
Zenoah G-38-powered, 1/4-scale Fokker
D.VII. It contains all Hitec HS-425 servos.
There are eight servos in this model: two for
the ailerons, two for the elevators, one for the
rudder, one for the throttle, one for the B&B
smoke system, and one for the bomb drop.
I fly my D.VII on 4.8 volts (a four-cell
pack). I have performed every maneuver it is
capable of and then some. Some of the mock
World War I dogfights in which I have
participated have really put a strain on the
airframe, and I am happy to report that the
servos performed flawlessly.
Any model in this weight and size class
would operate fine with standard servos. Can
you use more expensive high-torque or digital
servos? Of course, but do you really need
them? Certainly not.
As you move on to larger, heavier World
120 MODEL AVIATION
War II-type models, high-torque and/or giantscale
servos are the way to go. On my
aerobatic 1/4-scale Rearwin Speedster, I use
100-ounce metal-gear servos on the ailerons,
rudder, and each elevator half. Metal gears can
take more punishment than nylon gears, but
they are noisy and tend to wear quicker. Larger
aerobatic models require even more torque.
The accompanying photo shows Effie
Cassar of Sound Beach, New York, and his
40% Carden Extra 330. A Desert Aircraft DA-
150 powers the model, and each movable
surface requires two high-torque digital servos.
Digital servos have immense holding power
and work well when you have an aircraft this
size with large, movable surfaces. The 3-D
maneuvers that this aircraft is capable of put
quite a strain on the movable surfaces and the
servos that drive them.
One of the downsides to using the more
powerful digital servos is that they need more
current to operate. A model with a complement
of digital servos needs to carry a receiver
battery or batteries that can deliver more
current.
In Effie’s model, he uses JR DS8411
servos. They can deliver 188 ounce-inch of
torque on 6 volts. Many of the aircraft in this
class typically use the newer JR DS8611
servos that deliver 320 ounces of torque on 6
volts.
No matter what Giant model you fly,
always use a heavy-duty switch and heavyduty
extensions. I know that there are as many
servo combinations/scenarios as there are
aircraft types. If you have a specific question,
drop me a line and I will be happy to answer to
the best of my ability.
I found a wonderful servo chart that
contains a comprehensive listing of servos by
manufacturer. See the source listing.
That’s all for this month. Send me photos of
your current project so I can share them with
our readers. MA
Sources:
Balsa USA
(800) 225-7287
www.balsausa.com
Sig Manufacturing
(800) 247-5008
www.sigmfg.com
Randolph Aircraft Products
(800) 362-3490
www.randolphaircraft.com
Servo listing:
www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servochart.html
www.pspec.com
NELSON Engines and Accessories.
ULTRATHRUST Muffl ers.
4-Stroke Muffl ers, Elbows, & Twisters.
Pylon Racing and Performance Parts.
02sig4.QXD 12/22/08 12:58 PM Page 120
